First Look: Next Generation Climbing Shoes

[@ukclimbingofficial]

Update for the Scarpa super fans: the heel within the Drago XT isn't moulded, it's laser cut. This has allowed them to get a much more tailored and precise fit, although it sounds incredibly complex to construct (but Scarpa love a challenge, so we'd expect nothing less!!). We're hoping to do some more filming at the Scarpa showroom sometime soon, so watch this space for more detail...

[@gymmineutron45]

When are they coming out?

[@ukclimbingofficial]

@@gymmineutron45 Spring 2025

[@tronco1093]

Good news! Adam will be in the Olympics!

[@ukclimbingofficial]

YES 🎉🎉🎉

[@tangerinetango]

That purple VSR looks so sleek. Can't wait to try them!

[@mikel.mp4]

I am glad they are doing some intersting colours, unlike la sportiva which has made all the no-edge shoes white at once. bring some colour back, please!

[@Schnoofer]

We need more purple shoes. Can’t wait for the vsr lv 🤩🤩🤩🤩

[@ukclimbingofficial]

I 💜 the purple too. Can’t wait to get these on review given how big a fan of the Instinct we are already.

[@FxdGearQueer]

Scarpa keeps hitting the spot with their new shoes. Got the current Vapor S, which is ridiculously good.

[@ukclimbingofficial]

I feel like they’re the first shoe I put on these days, for almost everything too - they’re just so good

[@catchingrain]

The purple VSR looks incredible. My favourite colours. Hoping it fits my foot well.

[@DDoesT]

Looking forward to try the unparallel beat

[@ukclimbingofficial]

There seems to be a lot of interest out there for it. Really glad we featured it, as it was definitely one that sparked our interest.

[@PulpFrictionClimbing]

Definitely, there are so few good options for stiff trad shoes around

[@신쯔앙구]

@@PulpFrictionClimbingclassic miura

[@t666y]

Drago XT is sure looking mighty similar to the black and green Furia's... Good thing. I was pretty bummed when those went away

[@mikafull]

I know that Red Chilli is not one of the big names, but I have seen it two weeks ago at the rock and it looks awesome. Hope I can get a pair next year.

[@ukclimbingofficial]

The brand is probably biggest in Europe, less so in the UK and US, but they’re definitely growing. I really rated the Voltage back when I reviewed it and the Voltage X is even better.

[@mikafull]

@@ukclimbingofficial since they have joined edelrid and Glowacz left the company they getting better and better. Hope they keep the prices low that more people gonna give it a try. Had the voltage 2 and was surprised how confi they are. Unfortunately most climbers like single strap velcro like Skwama and Instinct more and I hope they will bring one with a more stiffer sole on the marked. Will keep a eye on this :)

[@qacermacer]

So that's how you pronounce Ocun...

[@ukclimbingofficial]

Yeah, Tim did a good job of pronouncing it properly. Suffice to say I’d have done a much poorer job 😅

[@SunnyMorningPancakes]

I said it as ocean in a climbing shop last year (because phonetically that makes sense) and the person very loudly corrected me.

[@Honorindustry]

Thanks for sharing, very good

[@Ap616]

Thanks for covering these shoes :) You do a good job! & include nice detail for those who already know a lot about certain climbing shoes/companies. I'm really really waiting for Scarpa to revamp their Instinct toe patch to be more like the Instinct S which I love. The fit & design is just phenomenal on that shoe... just needs a single strap :/ So we need an updated Instinct VS LV or this new Instinct VSR LV with a better interior upper lining(similar to Arpia) & better toe hooking design similar to Instinct S. That'd be the dream shoe for me 🤤

[@ukclimbingofficial]

Apparently the Instinct S is one of the hardest shoes to construct within the Scarpa collection. You can see why, but the end result really is 🤌 That toe patch, in particular, is a thing of beauty.

[@Ap616]

Yeah, that makes sense. Well, whenever they release an iterative update or mild overhaul on the other velcro Instincts like that, I will be very interested.

[@mikekenny1698]

Those new dragos look gorgeous, so glad climbing brands are moving away from that awful black/yellow colour combination. Also it's so nice to finally see high/low profile instead of mens and womens, it's just going to be a better net good for all climbing, I have big feet so I can never get womens sizes but I prefer the low profile on climbing shoes

[@ukclimbingofficial]

The whole move away from men’s/women’s to high/low volume is a real step forwards.

[@mattheweaves4758]

boreals look awesome

[@ukclimbingofficial]

That Zenith Ultra 2.0 rubber really is amazing too

[@mattheweaves4758]

@@ukclimbingofficial tried it on the satoris and love them! Just have to figure out which model to try next!! Reckon the whole new range should be sized the same?

[@ukclimbingofficial]

They’re one of the more consistent brands when it comes to sizing, so length wise you should be fine - width and volume will obviously vary from model to model

[@iedison3839]

Need that Beat asap...

[@ukclimbingofficial]

Yeah, shame it isn’t around for the trad season this year

[@SUM1518]

Oh no another instinct vsr model to buy, just bought the limited edition one...

[@mathkrGames]

I don't know if something like this exists but I've been thinking that they should try active tensioning of the heel forwards, meaning a strap (or two) running from the heel towards the top of the foot. In my mind that could reduce some of the need for too aggressive downsizing because it could be easier to achieve a good fit on the back half of the foot. Maybe it's a stupid idea and manufacturers have tried it already but to me it seems clever 🤷‍♂️

[@ApequH]

I have a childrens shoe that does that and I love it! It also really helps with my haglunds deformity

[@daphnisetchloe]

so glad the drago xt is almost full black. we gotta stop with these bright yellow shoes

[@ukclimbingofficial]

Monochrome seems to be ‘in’ at the moment 😎

[@TrackpadProductions]

Heh, if LaSpo comes out with an all-black solution and prices it at $300 I still honestly think I'd be a little tempted. _Everything_ should come in black 😉

[@ukclimbingofficial]

I’m still undecided about the move to white, as they look dirty almost immediately - especially if you’re climbing outside

[@KaeFwam]

I actually prefer the bright yellow and orange they’ve done in the past. As well as the white on the LVs.

[@hay.denphoto]

I love the yellow dragos made it feel like i was wearing the lamborghini of climbing shoes

[@Jackwithoneeye]

Interesting releases from scarpa .... Struggling to see what niche the XT is supposed to be for ? Throwing in an LV shoe into an already super crowded instinct lineup just feels like it will add more confusion for the consumer.

[@ukclimbingofficial]

We were wondering whether the Drago XT might end up superseding the others within the range. Whilst we haven’t seen the sales figures I suspect that the Drago LV outsells the standard Drago, so maybe this will have the same effect. I agree with the sentiment you’re making though, which is that more similar shoes is indeed confusing as there’s almost too much to choose from.

[@Jackwithoneeye]

@@ukclimbingofficial Yeah it does look kinda just look a drago with new tech . Will be looking forward to the first impressions.

[@zacharylaschober]

I think this is intended to start making a range of a shoe in the specialized performance line akin to having a series of Vapor and Instinct. This was somewhat done with the Furia having both the S and Air, but I think they want families of shoes as with the Booster, Boostic, and Mago and then the Drago, Drago LV, and Chimera. I love the Furia Air, but do wish there was a little more structure over the toes and behind the heel, and think this new Drago does exactly that.

[@torrancepoon7645]

Hmmm I think the mad rock drone has a 3d molded heel that’s been out for awhile now. The scarpa drago XT heel looks similar to the mad rock drone but with less aggressive edge.

[@ukclimbingofficial]

We pinned a comment/correction afterwards, as it’s not moulded - it’s laser cut

[@tomriddle2257]

I can’t wait for the Instinct VSR LV. Any idea when in 2025 this comes? Early/late?

[@ukclimbingofficial]

I’m pretty sure that March was mentioned, so watch this space 👀

[@ChrisDearing]

200 for the La Sportivas! For a disposable item. Guess I'm not going to the Olympics 😢

[@ukclimbingofficial]

We were wondering when a climbing shoe would break the £200 barrier and these come pretty close. As you say though, they aren’t designed with durability in mind 😱

[@tomriddle2257]

Please help! Drago LV fits my feet perfectly but I want a second pair that gives more support on small footholds. I was happily wearing Insincts for over a year but they caused a medical condition on my big toes, twisting the distal segments towards the foot center. With the Drago LV, the big toes can be more straight (because of higher asymmetry) and I have no pain. Can you recommend a shoe to try? Thanks!

[@ukclimbingofficial]

If it's something asymmetric you're after then the Boostic might be an option, but they're quite a different fit to the Drago LV and are much wider/higher volume. That said, it might be worth trying. Your best bet would be to go into a climbing shop and try on as many pairs as you can and see which feels/fits the best.

[@velkaism]

Now if Scarpa could come out with a Drago model for wide feed,...

[@sovereignyx3158]

No need for that 😉 Just try out the new Mad Rock models. There is probably something that will definitely fit your feet. And Mad Rock basically inventend the 3D printing method for climbing shoes… Scarpa is just copying.

[@tomriddle2257]

Wide feet usually correlate with higher body weight which usually requires a model that gives more support. So I don’t think there would be much demand for a wider Drago, as it is too soft and most people would rather go for the Instinct instead. You could try the Furia Air as a Drago replacement. It stretches a lot and thereby fits wider feet nicely. Wouldn’t recommend though for the above reason.

[@ukclimbingofficial]

It’ll be interesting to see what Mad Rock have got coming through once they’re re-established in the UK market

[@charliebakes2]

For one video could you go round to your friends house and review his shoes?

[@Sintrixify]

How does the Ocun Diamond compare to its other shoes it’s in lineup. I really enjoy their Bullit but it felt softer than the comparable Scarpa Instinct VSR. I want something stiffer than the Bullit from Ocun with a strap closure system.

[@jiguy0420]

Are the drago xt's lower volume than the drago lv's or is it somewhere in between the regular and the lv's?

[@TrackpadProductions]

Man, really seems like Scarpa just can't stop making new Instinct models. Lace, Lace W, S, VS, VS W, VSR, VSR LE, and now VSR LV 😂 /lh

[@ukclimbingofficial]

If they’re good, we don’t mind how many they make 😅

[@J_punkt_O_punkt]

i'd like a softer slipper please. and maybe a stiffer lace-up or velcro ;)

[@jac6255]

Have you reviewed the boreal indo yet?

[@tomriddle2257]

The video says there is a Scarpa Instinct LV, but there only is a women version, that only goes up to size 43 (or so). I need 45, so there is no LV for me, right? Well, not until 2025.. 😅

[@ukclimbingofficial]

Exactly. As of next year they’ll be producing a full size range of low volume options, as opposed to a limited range that’s currently available.

[@tomriddle2257]

@@ukclimbingofficial Sounds great, can’t wait! 😊

[@quantumsheep3296]

The unparallel shoes look a bit like replacements for their new tro line, really love the newtro vs

[@codygoldberg7463]

Wait is that how you're actually supposed to say ocun?

[@ukclimbingofficial]

It is indeed 🙂

[@gt4joe]

Any info on when the Boostic OGs are coming out?

[@ukclimbingofficial]

They’ll be out for Autumn/Winter 2024, so sometime in/around September or October.

[@TheRightish]

For the other US viewers, 195 Pounds is $250 USD. EU shoe companies are losing their damn minds.

[@ukclimbingofficial]

It's worth noting that this particular shoe, at this particular price, is a seriously specialist climbing shoe. It represents the very top of the top end and isn't a shoe we see being commercially successful, at least not in terms of numbers, so I don't think it's a case of them losing their minds - it's simply them designing something very, very exclusive.

[@sickteej]

I was really hoping the new Dragos would get a wider variant instead of an even smaller one. Maybe 2026 :')

[@ukclimbingofficial]

As someone with a wider foot, I’d definitely be interested in this development. Low volume is very in vogue at the moment!!

[@DonJeje]

They need to reduce price sooooo much. 180€ makes absolutely non sense.

[@ukclimbingofficial]

Whilst we don’t like paying more, with inflation as it has been - and the fact that half of these shoes are quite literally hand made in Italy - the price tag attached doesn’t come as a surprise 🤷🏼‍♂️

[@fromaugustisland]

No new Tenaya? 😢

[@ukclimbingofficial]

Nothing new this year, but they’ve always been a bit slower to bring out new shoes than the other brands, but when they do it tends to be well considered, so hopefully we’ll see something next year 🤞

[@gave1797]

When do the new instincts release?

[@ukclimbingofficial]

March 2025

[@angrybirder9983]

How do you think the Unparralel Float compares to other semi-agressive, semi-stiff shoes like the Five Ten Crawe, Scarpa Vapor S and Scarpa Arpia V?

[@ukclimbingofficial]

It's difficult to say without using them, but it looks like it would have similarities to the Crawe, although I never used them so can't comment with any degree of certainty. They're very different to the Vapour S and Arpia V, but have a few things in common with the Instinct, although the forefoot felt firmer. That said, it's hard to say how they are in use without using them, so watch this space for an in-depth review as/when they're released.

[@angrybirder9983]

@@ukclimbingofficial Thanks! I'll probably look into them once my Crawe need replacing. Do you mind explaining what makes them different to Arpia and Vapour?

[@ukclimbingofficial]

@@angrybirder9983 The main difference is that the Vapour S and Arpia both feature a full length outsole, whereas the Float features a split sole, which makes it much softer (and more flexible).

[@angrybirder9983]

@@ukclimbingofficial So the Vapour and Arpia are actually the more supportive and stiffer shoes? That's interesting, because the reviews of the Vapour S and the (old) Arpia usually emphasized their softness, while the reviews of the Crawe mostly emphasized its stiffness. Anyway, I should probably ask again once the reviews are out. It would be really cool to see a group test of all "true neutral" shoes (medium downturn, medium stiffness, sticky rubber).

[@ukclimbingofficial]

It’s a tricky one to explain. The Float has a stiffer forefoot, but less overall support as a result of the split sole. The Vapour S is probably a bit softer throughout the forefoot, but has more support as a result of its full length sole. The Arpia is another level up from that in terms of support, with the same full length outsole.

[@samuelkalika7122]

@ukclimbing which ones are vegan?

[@ukclimbingofficial]

We’ll cover this in greater detail when we come around to reviewing them 👍

[@asantos704]

ur mom's.

[@kevinmauge3699]

If only unparallel made the beats in pink...

[@ukclimbingofficial]

🩷

[@TheMartijnfct1]

What about Mad Rock?

[@ukclimbingofficial]

They don’t have an agency or distributor in the UK - hence aren’t available

[@kevinmokracek5078]

If only Unparalleled had customer service as good as there shoe.

[@ukclimbingofficial]

Their distributor in the UK has a good reputation. I think the issue throughout the last 12 months has been availability, which is out of their control.

[@kevinmokracek5078]

@@ukclimbingofficial Here in the states it’s been lack of communication not lack of product. There is no excuse for lack of communication, it’s one of the easiest and cheapest things a company can do to earn trust. Check out Mountain Project and the piles of complaints against UP, you would think the guy who made Valley Giants got hired as UP’s PR guy.

[@fgbae8220]

will the new scarpas have the s72 rubber as sole?

[@ukclimbingofficial]

No, they’ll feature Vibram XS Grip 2 on the the outsole, then M50 on the hood/heel

[@alexandersvensson7830]

​@@ukclimbingofficialWhy not just use the stickier s72 rubber?

[@CtrlSaltDelete]

It's a lot less durable, and being super soft rubber with a super soft shoe with like the drago I imagine it would make edging more difficult without enough added benefit in smearing to compensate​@@alexandersvensson7830

[@ukclimbingofficial]

Exactly that, softer doesn’t always mean better, as it comes with its limitations

[@martins3183]

Is 5.10 still making climbing shoes?

[@ukclimbingofficial]

Rumours abound about this topic. Currently the impression we’ve got is that they don’t; however, whether they will in the future - who knows 🤷🏼‍♂️

[@angrybirder9983]

Yes, but their shoes are quite different from their pre-Adidas stuff IIRC. I bought a pair of Crawe last winter, so if they didn't discontinue everything since then, they probably still produce climbing shoes.

[@dboshard3]

No word on new solutions/comps? La Sportiva are labeling the current version as "2023" and selling out of them. I figured there would be new ones on the way

[@ukclimbingofficial]

No update for you there I’m afraid

[@ionclimbs]

Great for edging you say... 🤔

[@MarkMccarthy-g1r]

What about Evolv’s new Defy range targeting the volume market??

[@doublevgreen]

Why is that Even called a dragon? I see no common appearance

[@ukclimbingofficial]

Having seen them in person they definitely have a Drago look/feel. It’s basically a ‘super Drago’ with that updated toe patch/heel.

[@doublevgreen]

@@ukclimbingofficial but if they updated the toepatch, heel and velcro system, isnt it just a totally different shoe except for the last?

[@ukclimbingofficial]

Similar, but different, in a similar way to the Instinct S compared to the Instinct VS, VSR and Lace

[@juandelosmuertos]

Climbing shoes' prices are getting out of hand

[@ukclimbingofficial]

They’re not too radically out of line with inflation. A Solution was £100 back when it was released in 2007 and in May 2024 that equates to in/around £165, which is about what top end shoes are. Obviously the Ondra Comp is an exception, but that’s not exactly a mass market shoe.

[@garrettswank6030]

More comp shoes, shocking.

[@ukclimbingofficial]

Can there ever be enough comp shoes?! Yes, there probably can 😅

[@pascalluthi357]

hiangle 5.10 adidas comeback

[@ukclimbingofficial]

It’ll be interesting to see if 5.10 ever rise up again as a force to be reckoned with within the world of climbing 🤔

[@doruso5610]

Soft and low volume… bummer

[@ukclimbingofficial]

As someone with a wider, higher volume foot I feel your pain. There’s always that Unparallel Trad Shoe though, which feels like it’s the sole representative of wider, higher volume shoes within this review 😅

[@philipmitchell7660]

Manufacturers saving money by not doing full rubber soles...

[@ukclimbingofficial]

Some shows have full length outsoles, others have split soles. It’s not a case of cost saving, it’s just that the two offer very different levels of flexibility/support 🤷🏼‍♂️

[@kylemurray8662]

Tons of mid color schemes...Floats are the only ones that look somewhat decent... it just Sucks that Unparallel is such a shit company. Stick with La Sportivas new drop.

[@CorkBouldering]

Climbing shoes are to expensive, and wearing to fast, all “eco” textile shoes smell like dump after 4 climbing sessions, it is total stinky rip off, I personally wear only leather miuras, usually buying when on sale.

[@darrenmarney8577]

I'm wondering what shoe Wolfgang used to climb Punks in the Gym with & Stefan used for Lord of the Rings 🤔 The shoe makers could be selling dreams as a replacement to abilities 🫣

[@ukclimbingofficial]

Climbing shoes have improved significantly in the last 40 years. Even within the last 20, 10 or 5 years there's continued to improve, although I suspect we are reaching a point where the gains are becoming more marginal. However, what I will say is that they have without doubt got better and have, in turn, made things feel a whole lot easier as a result. It's not all marketing hype!!

[@darrenmarney8577]

All so true 👍 But one consideration that shoe manufacturers ignore is that my foot design doesn't change & they constantly change their models 😶 So in my climbing history, I've changed brands 5 times 😂 When I order a new surfboard it's totally custom & Perfect 👍 When i find a perfect shoe the brand changes the design 😢 😂

[@ukclimbingofficial]

@@darrenmarney8577 I'm in a similar situation: over the years I've favoured various different brands, but ended up moving on as each as changed their models. Always nice when brands keeps their range quite consistent, so you don't have to do that!!