Statement of Youth: The Birth of British Sport Climbing

[@djayers]

Historical note - the cat Syph was so named because she came from Brunswick St, middle of the red light area at the time. *And* I was briefly accused of 'snerking' the 'shrooms, being the only person in the house that day...

[@michaelthomson8065]

I was introduced to climbing in California, US,in 1984.First doing trad routes.But it wasn't long before the sport climbing fever took over.First at Smith Rocks in Oregon, then closer to home in the Owen's River Gorge.My friend ,John Hartman's early first ascents had bolts hand drilled on glacier polished granite.His climbs at the O.R.Gorge,still ground up,were driller with a Bosch power drill in super hard welded Tuff.

[@paulpritchard9127]

Why I have waited 4 years to watch this bomber historical film I am not too sure. What a fantastic effort. Yes it was a wild ride Andy P xx

[@ukclimbingofficial]

Thanks Paul, glad you enjoyed it 🙏

[@eccehomer8182]

Though I never reached anywhere near their level, these were the guys who inspired me to climb in the early nineties. Thanks guys. RIP Andy.

[@markdraper9188]

Great documentary - RIP Andy P

[@ukclimbingofficial]

He was such a lovely man - missed by many. RIP Andy P

[@tallasianguy42]

One of the best historical climbing movies I've seen, if not the best. Well done, good to see Hubble with the proper number after it as well.

[@xsandinistax]

As i responded to another comment about Hubble's proper number, Alex Megos (the only one to date, if i'm not mistaken, to climb both Hubble and Action Directe) disagrees with that 9a grade.

[@GreeMoMee]

@@xsandinistax He might be slightly biased, though.

[@MrColnagoCLX]

Fantastic. I climbed from the early 90s until the turn of the century and these guys were my heroes. I only managed to lead Great Western but I'm proud of that. Thanks Ben, Jerry, Ron Fawcett, Jonny Dawes and John Dunne. Legends.

[@stephenbaker7344]

An absolute masterpiece. Happy happy days......

[@frenchfree]

Al Rouse's place in Sheffield was a bit more up market. But a lot of the guys in this piece showed up for parties and of course the chance of a free beer. We called them "the stick Men" and they were the future of sport climbing in the UK. But they always knew that what they were doing was LOW RISK. At the worst a torn finger tendon. Some of us were built like them but 3 inches taller and 15 pounds of muscle heavier. Johnie Dawes was an exception. Small, introverted, wore a tweed jacket to parties while we were possibly almost naked to the waist. But these guys set the future for the sport in the UK. "Basher" became head dude in "Wild country". Good luck to all you guys, the French cannot always win.

[@DrewWithington]

I read an article in Mountain magazine about this time called "A Different Sport", which was written/published just at this point of transition from climbing being predominantly about adventure (as it had been for the last 100 odd years)('trad climbing') to climbing being predominantly about athleticism ('sport climbing'), as it is now - climbing in the Olympics etc. Revolutionary times!!

[@danboas1784]

Great film. I was hooked from start to finish. Great historical watch. Thank you.

[@lake76]

that was cracking...... really enjoyed that...

[@101deepak101]

How has this only got 300 likes.. Great film

[@ploglet]

Such a great film and time.

[@notsosmartmart5402]

I loved this film. What a crew !!!

[@ukclimbingofficial]

Thanks - glad you enjoyed it. Like you say, what a crew!!

[@erickate6969]

Great documentary .

[@susannewilliams]

Wow fantastic! Love this film. I was in Manchester from 1988. High Times.

[@federicocamici]

jerry..legend,,

[@ferrells0987]

Great film! Wow! One of my favorite climbing films I've ever seen. I would have paid to go to a showing of this. Loved learning more about this history, loved the cast of rogues, and find myself filled with gratitude that I never lived in an apartment quite that shitty.

[@masterpropper2485]

Thanks very much for uploading this great film! Read all their books, watched all their films, maybe I'll climb all their climbs one day ;)

[@ukclimbingofficial]

I’ve managed a couple of Andy Pollitt’s routes. Don’t think I’ve managed a single one by Ben or Jerry 😅

[@feralberti2]

Really nice film, great to see this era of climbing..

[@ploglet]

Such an amazing film. Glory days for sure.

[@fredpilk7759]

First time watch! What a treat!

[@kar0x]

what an awesome movie, thank you!

[@oldnotwise71]

I really enjoyed this, such an interesting story and well told.

[@dfcpuk]

How surprised I was to click on this and hear The Mob's Another Day Another Death. - AMAZING

[@matthewkelly99]

Best I've seen in years. Fukkin ellll!!!!

[@Tac0caT0]

Cheers to the original heroes of climbing and dirt people!🔥🔥🔥

[@FreshClipMedia]

53:00 imagine belaying your mate on his hardest project on a munter hitch! Different times!

[@ukclimbingofficial]

I know - how times change eh?!?

[@davidpleydell3522]

Great film! Awesome achievements! Inspiration! But kinda funny how the film only talked about the French, whilst the Germans (Wolfgang & Kurt), Jerry's winters training in the Frakunjura and the early developments of the campus board (outlined in Jerry's book) don't get a mention.

[@xsandinistax]

My thoughts exactly! UK climbers, especially Jerry and Ben, were pioneers and arguably part of the elite of their era (still they remain), but the Germans were slightly better. Do not forget that red pointing (rotpunkt) is their creation, along with the campus board as you mentioned. Wolfgang Gullich was the greatest sports climber of his generation who pushed the boundaries of climbing grades like no one did. He is responsible for 4 step-ups (8b, 8b+, 8c, 9a), consecutive with the UIAA grade system (X, X+, XI-, XI) and he stands alone to that to date. PS: 1. Jerry Moffatt mentioned his journey to Frankenjura, but not the fact that he lived for a while with Wofgang and Kurt. He trained with them and he became involved in the development of the campus board. 2. Hubble's 9a grade is questionable.

[@TheToxicdieter]

So true, Wolfang brought Jerry to Frankenjura for the first time. And that´s when jerry realized that he could be one of the best in the world.

[@z1522]

A side note re: the Germans - a late friend visiting Europe had a little climbing experience he slightly oversold to two who he befriended. They took him in, took him up routes in his level, maybe 5.8, and after a great time, he invited them to stay with him if they ever came Stateside. Some time later, they did stop in Boulder and stayed with him, as they traveled around - it was Kurt and Wolfgang, and my friend had no clue about their growing fame at all. I have trouble imagining the Brits being as hospitable to anyone not at their level.

[@StewartWilner]

good stuff

[@leoingson]

Fantastic, thanks for that great movie! I like the understatement - Jerry was blasting thru Europe at one time, and left a great impression on the Germans and France, they didn't even mention it. And I like that proper number on Hubble :)

[@xsandinistax]

Alex Megos (the only one to date, if i'm not mistaken, to climb both Hubble and Action Directe) disagrees with that "proper" number-9a grade of Hubble. :)

[@leoingson]

@@xsandinistax I think we discussed this already exactly here. Don't know, where it's gone. Alex did both, both should be 9a, but Action was harder (and a little Franken-Patriotism). Something like that was the outcome.

[@xsandinistax]

@@leoingson, Megos (the only one non Brit out of 10 people who climbed Hubble) has already gave his opinion on both routes, stating that Hubble has 4 difficult moves, while Action Directe (aka the Masterpiece) has 16. He also said that Action Directe is much more difficult than Hubble, responding simultaneously to Ben Moon's implication about that "Franken-Patriotism" and that he don't want to upgrade Hubble cause of Wolfgang Gullich. I think that Hubble is a challenging 8c+ or maybe something between 8c+ and 9a, but not a 9a. Also, Hubble is considered to be the world's first 8c+, but right now some, including Ben Moon, claim that Liquid Ambar (originally rated 8c/first ascent by Jerry Moffatt just 15 days before Moon's ascent on Hubble) is the world's first 8c+. Do i have to mention that only 4 people and all of them Brits have climbed Liguid Ambar? So, is it me or the Brits trying to "steal" Wolfgang's glory, because he was arguably the greatest climber of his generation and slightly better and stronger than Moon and Moffatt? Isn't it weird that in this documentary no one, and especially Jerry who lived for a while with Gullich and Kurt Albert, didn't even mentioned the Germans? Anyway, we have to wait Ondra, Schubert or Ghisolfi to climb the legendary Hubble and especially Adam, who has already climbed Action Directe.

[@gazzbert]

@Bla Blum ‘kin’ell mate, you had to go and poke the bear 🤣

[@EvanWisheropp]

53:00 Check out that old school belay technique! Wow!

[@Intermernet]

Awesome doco :-) Just one minor complaint, no mention of Wolfgang. Punks was surely a slap in the face for everyone in the mid eighties, but no-one seems to mention it!

[@Dave1507]

If you mean Wolfgang Gülich, The title of the video and the name of the channel might give you an idea why he's not mentioned.

[@bambangsuseno8764]

Extremely cool, men!

[@whywhenwhere4377]

Brilliant!!

[@lizarddronedude3617]

The sad state of Andy saddened me so much I remember seeing him in his pomp he was so handsome and natural fit

[@Nick-B78]

Awesome film. JM was clearly an incredible climber and I’ve not met him but in every film I’ve seen him in he always seems quite arrogant and almost bitter while BM just comes across as pretty chilled.

[@draigcoch3310]

Nice🙂

[@eeeeee9000]

The part about sponsorships makes me realize that brands like Red Bull and Clif are so big now and such a favorite of regular mainstream consumers and what they are really selling is this style these guys invented

[@eeeeee9000]

Also I think Red Bull just tastes really good

[@TesterAnimal1]

@@eeeeee9000 yer kidding? 🤮

[@chrism5995]

@@TesterAnimal1 it's really bad for you but I like the bite.

[@TesterAnimal1]

SOOO fucking great!

[@garryreed2725]

Fucking Awesome Film

[@unique_newyork]

Wait... is that Ned Ned Feehally soloing Revelations?

[@ukclimbingofficial]

It is indeed. We could have easier done a behind the scenes film exclusively about this section, as it required some serious management as far as safety was concerned (and even then it was slightly sketchy). I reckon we had around 30 bouldering mats underneath the route and a rope in place when Ned got higher. Suffice to say that the route looked somewhat taxing in the old school (and significantly oversized) shoes he was wearing. Makes the original solo ascent seem even more incredible!!

[@unique_newyork]

@@ukclimbingofficial Unreal!!

[@ukclimbingofficial]

It was quite something to witness. Did make me think if someone soloed it again today, it’d still be a totally mind blowing achievement.

[@Flukey999]

Anyone know the song of the intro please?

[@ukclimbingofficial]

It's Another Day, Another Death by The Mob

[@bencarter3623]

Anyone know the name of the songs used in this? they're really good

[@ukclimbingofficial]

Hi Ben, all the songs are listed at the end of the film from 57:47. Thanks!

[@ripplewine6112]

Anyone know who did the opening song?

[@ukclimbingofficial]

It's 'Another Day, Another Death' by The Mob 🙂

[@kingerz]

Loved it but pretty shady to miss out John Dunne etc.

[@ukclimbingofficial]

He wasn't quite part of this scene and was slightly later. I'm sure he's got his own great story to tell.

[@michaelhart7569]

Dunne makes it clear in "The Big Issue" that he wasn't part of the Sheffield crowd, and that was why his achievements were ignored by some or publicly doubted by others. Not the best part of Johnny Dawes' legacy.

[@Stewartthorp]

Missed Johny dawes not being in it.

[@ukclimbingofficial]

Whilst Johnny can be accredited with a lot of development over on the Grit, his name isn't synonymous with the Lime - or sport climbing - which is what this film is about. There's definitely a film to be made about him though, but this isn't it...

[@kevinturner6621]

I was in the 5 years before this period.

[@ukclimbingofficial]

I bet that was a memorable time too

[@peterwetton2655]

I really wish slackjaw would put Hardgrit on KZbin.

[@ukclimbingofficial]

Unlikely to happen, sadly - I think music rights are an issue.

[@donalddarko3676]

Big up Mark Pretty for telling it exactly how it is not rollocks. Trundling along like it always had. The idea that it suddenly became more innovative is absolute tosh.

[@shaunraub2837]

Is it spelt bruin grove wall ?

[@ukclimbingofficial]

Broomgrove Wall - featured recently in an Adam Ondra video when he came to Sheffield.

[@Supwiyaman]

😂Cat called syth🤣🤣🤣😭😭😭

[@nelsonianb1289]

Who else feels like they wasted their youth

[@weekendbikingwarrior360]

nope, I look back and adore this film as justification of my addiction at the time, they were formative times for 100s of people, well described in this wonderful film

[@TesterAnimal1]

@@weekendbikingwarrior360 I think he means by getting qualifications and working…. Yes!

[@MrAussieJules]

Talking of jobs... may have taken a while, but ended up way easier than socialist France to find a job in the uk. 200 000 french moved over...