Ultralight Paulk Workbench

[@TheSmartWoodshop]

The Moreland Ultralight ply is all hardwood layers, thickness calibrated to +/- .3mm, super smooth, flat, no voids, and stable. A/C ply is all softwood, prone to voids and delamination, not flat, and not stable. The thicker layers of the a/c have the same tooling tear out as the Ultralight but don't show without very close inspection. The thinner layers of the Ultralight show even minor tear out as the glue layer is pinkish so there is a lot of contrast making them easy to see. Unfortunately, it seems many buyers would rather their bench "look" perfect than be flatter, stronger, more stable, and lighter. I am at a crossroad, as I want to make the bench far better, by spending an additional $21 per bench, but cannot take the chance of having them rejected due to these visual imperfections that "will" happen

[@dougerb1357]

Ron. You've developed a great product. I guess that even men can be pretty fickle as consumers, also. As a guy who has been in military and industrial product design for over 35 years that FORM follows FUNCTION. That is why I would like the Hardboard top surface. The high density resin impregnated fibers are very durable and the smooth surface makes it easy to move even slightly heavy objects around. And, even moderate scratches can be sanded out and redressed with with a good oil based finish. To address your concerns: I would advise to focus on the functional and operational quality of the product. This is not a aesthetic beauty item. It's going to get banged around and marred, if used properly. Go for quality where is really matters.

[@CU96821]

Split the difference, it took 2 sheets to build the main unit, so make the top out of thicker veneer for a more durable working surface. The rest can be make with the lighter weight stuff.

[@gregcoste5332]

yes, 1/2 ply for the base and sides, 3/4 for the top .. as for light weight vs standard ply, the spring that I saw with the lightweight was un-acceptable

[@josephwhatley9027]

CU96821 agreed

[@akbychoice]

Top of one, bottom of the other. Make it so it can be used on either side.

[@CompassCustomCreations]

I used Baltic Birch to make mine, 3/4 top and saw horses, 1/2 for the sides and bottom. Its a WORK bench for cryin out loud, not a dining room table!

[@covertops.]

Wow! Excellent idea!

[@georgecisneroz597]

At my 62 years and still at it, I'll take light over the heavier. I have bought your plans Ron and built your design and it gets heavier every year. I'm not worried about aesthetics.

[@patricklewis1622]

I built the original Park workbench with AC ply. And I built the original miter saw stand with Baltic Birch. The Baltic Birch has not held up but I doubt that it's was as good of quality as this new lighter ply product. Think I'm going on 4 years with my original AC ply workbench use it most days. Applied several coats of finish on it and it has really held up well. So the 1/8 " veneer ac fir is my preference I used the Arauco product. Thanks Ron your great! Pat on Tacoma .

[@bradford549]

When I worked at a high end furniture pant we used the ultra light plywood for our sleeper sofas. There is quite a weight savings. Our testing of plywoods showed this ultra light was stronger than Baltic birch. Baltic birch as a lot of glue.

[@davidclauson5256]

I would rather have the lighter weight. If I want a pretty work bench, I'll make it myself. With pretty wood, that's not going to be easy to move around. Your bench is perfect for the guy in the go. Light, sturdy, and thanks to you and Fastcap easy to move. Thanks for making it possible.

[@dougerb1357]

I'd like to see hardboard on the top surface. I know that would add weight but the added durability is worth the weight to me; especially on the smaller Compact Workbench. Maybe a compensation can be made by making larger litening holes on the bottom surface.

[@marcengall698]

The clue is in the title , “....WORK bench .....” I’ve built a couple of your benches Ron , great design . Like many contractors I’ve tweaked them a bit to suit my own needs . I faced the same issues with blowout and sanding through the top veneer etc. And whilst there is some professional pride in building the thing “right “ I didn’t get too hung up on it , knowing full well it was going to get knocked about , scratched and dinged . However …… I think hobbyist/home woodworkers are gonna want it looking factory brand new , straight out of the box … Contractor model = lighter , few production flaws cheaper ??? Home woodworker model = higher level of aesthetic finish , heavier, more expensive ???

[@nicholsconstruction1]

SPOT ON ! I couldn't have said it any better. No need to repeat.

[@stevenbrowneireland]

Absolutely agree with that statement. A contractor won't mind as much as they'll put it on the jobsite the next day maybe even the same day.

[@wiedapp]

I have to totally agree with this statement. It is a workbench after all, so it is meant to get some beating anyways. It's not like you pack that workbench up after work and put it in your living room to look nice. Whose workbench didn't get some beating over time, didn't do anything on it - my opinion. That doesn't mean it would be normal to totally destroy it within a short time. Some people design their stationary workbenches with a sacrificial top. They don't have these fancy dog holes and all, but they help getting the job done.

[@andygullion5182]

Marc is dead on . Question is-who is buying these ? Since it's Fastcap, I'd lean more that it's building pros and go light , and just tell people up front .

[@CompassCustomCreations]

I'm with you Mark! WORK bench, not Coffee table! (although mine has had coffee stains on it from time to time!)

[@robertw.1499]

Like it or not Paul, we woodworkers also like our tools to look good. Blowout/tearout on this ply will snag and cause injury. Rout out the grooves a little more and glue in 3mm ply inserts. Would look much better and no danger of snagging!

[@urbanwoodworking233]

Thanks for sharing. I would concentrate on getting the surface layer right so that there is little or no tear out. There are 3 things to control 1) the type of wood laminate on the surface, 2) the thickness of that laminate, and 3) the bonding agent. Pre-coating the plywood with varnish or wax prior to machining will also reduce tear out.on the CNC, select higher speeds and sharp helical bits if you are not using them already.. Finally, there is the environment - dry timber is more prone to tear-out.if all that still fails then cover the table top with a thin sheet of MDF and machine through that giving you a kind of zero clearance template.

[@francismccabe3265]

Ron, my PTS weighs 60.0 lbs including power strip, conduit pipe, 2 coats poly, some small screws and nails, and a little sawdust. My next one will be under 50 lb excluding conduit; read on: I built my TS 1.5 years ago almost exactly to your instructions using 1/2" Home Depot sanded-both-sides underlayment type ply, very flat, with very thin veneer, a few voids, and there was no blowout on the holes that I drilled with forstner and eased with 1/8 R roundover bit. I can't see why you would get blowout on your ply unless it had a lot of voids or CNC feed was set too fast or bit design not quite right. Ply was about $20/sheet if I recall. HD didn't stock A/C yellow pine (usual east coast construction ply) , their BC was wet/warped/void filled. I really wanted the 5ply doug fir AC or BC I used to build my house 25 years ago (special order here) because even the leftover scraps are still flat and I think its harder and stronger than the HD stuff, but price was $40/sheet + the wait time. The conduit pipes account for 8.6 lb of the TS. If you go back to 1/2 vice 5/8 you will lose 20% weight. I think my extra web frames keep my top plenty stiff; maybe you used 5/8 due to longer span between less webs?? As an engineer, I do not see why the TS can't have a 1/4" bottom, and I plan to build next TS and your 4x8 bench accordingly. Lighter weight would be great, but not much issue for me because outside I only set up/take down once per day at most, and I have helper on many jobs making most things under 100lbs a breeze to carry. Inside or upstairs it's only set up/taken down once per job. My opinion is that customers expect impeccable LEAN no-DEFECTS products from Fastcap and will tend to exploit the return policy. Sorry I cannot get photos to copy here

[@vaughnhixson4026]

I purchased one recently and I love it! I feel the stability of the heavier material is best for me. Don’t want to trade stability and looks for lighter weight and blowouts. Hope this helps.

[@hugavet3049]

Consider using the same ultralight ( just fot the top) that you used on your trailer floor. I like the looks of it in your videos AND its worth the extra wieght if its more durable. I just might do that myself on my next PTS-XL.

[@jacobrowe9]

Give an option to the consumer and adjust the price accordingly so they can choose which one is right for them. I'm not in the market for a bench yet and if I was I personally would purchase one of each. One for the shop (the original) and one for my rig (the lighter one with thinner veneer). I appreciate all your videos Ron, great work you do

[@williamtexeira9693]

Oh my gosh! Like that’s going be a kitchen table! Anyway shout out to Ron and fast cap you guys have a awesome product keep on keeping! Aloha from da Garden Island 🌴

[@D1PP1N]

I have to do bit changes when i work with plywood. I use a down cut to cut most of the way through the material then switch to an up cut but to cut out the rest. Their machine seems perfectly capable of using expensive up/down bits you just need to plunge below the upcut portion of the bit to reduce tear out.

[@MrArcher0]

Thicker veneer for more even surfacing. I wouldn’t want to snag on thin veneer tear it and ruin my smooth work surface. Durability, longevity, quality and strength are what I personally look for in quality tools. Pretty and lighter are things my wife looks for in shoes and purses... just saying. Lol

[@TheSmartWoodshop]

The lighter ply from Moreland has more laminations which equal a flatter more even surface, less possibility of delamination, strength, and durability. The lighter weight comes from Moreland's core choice, which is still structurally rated, unlike most other lightweight ply brands that use a balsa core to reduce weight. In this case, the choice of a/c over ultralight is putting aesthetics over function. The a/c is the prettier purse and weights more. I would absolutely choose Ultralight for my personal workbench as I don't care if it looks like it has been used to build things. If I were making a showpiece, then my choice would be different.😎🤙

[@MrArcher0]

Ron Paulk is there a delamination comparison between the two? Moisture, heat, steam tests... I can't argue with facts I don't have. Worked 20 year cabinet maker here.

[@LelandFord]

Ron Paulk ... Since you think the 6 lb. lighter bench is a very important factor for a contractor, and since FastCap builds most everything on demand, how about offering two models. The lighter more expensive contractor model and the cheaper more aesthetically pleasing weekend warrior model. Then see which one sells better and has fewer factory returns. I’m sure the idea here is to have it a commercial success, right? Test the market and then discontinue the one that doesn’t make financial sense.

[@Sixcats4ksu]

Not a contractor but I carry a heavy grip at work and it is amazing how much an additional couple pounds feels when you are already carrying a load....I would want less weight

[@leanwoodworks]

I'm still building my PTS exactly to original spec...not really interested in something they are going to sell.. but hey some folks like to buy stuff instead of make it.. I like to make things for my shop and make things within that shop just a different way to look at it.. as far as fastcap is concerned I have been using fastcap for 13 years... never have I been disappointed... good company!!

[@james-yc4jx]

I built one of your benches and loved the functionality but weight definitely became as issue for m e. Especially after a full day of work just the thought of lifting it to put away sometimes meant i would just put a tarp over it and call it a day. I am going to rebuild one and i have a couple of thoughts in mind. one thing i am going to do is put wheels on one end. the supports for table saw on other end will serve as handles. I am also thinking of taking off some width so my arms can reach across at a more comfortable width when moving into position. I also like the idea of using ultralight plywood. Also thinking of putting a couple of slots in bottom to help with blowing out sawdust. Overall, i love your bench design, especially the cubby holes that keep tools off the working surface.

[@iancraigen]

If I'm buying a premade product then it needs to leave the factory perfect. If the margin is that tight better to go with a heavier cheaper material that gives a clean result. If weight is that much of a concern, they would build their own. Maybe you could do a pack deal with the plywood supplier so that they had a Ron Paulk pack that shipped directly so it was easy to self build the lighter version.

[@jacobtanner1933]

I see it as a work table that will inevitably get beat up. I would take the lighter weight any day. keep up the great work!

[@fredericgsa]

Thanks Ron. I think 6LBs is important, since you could have 2 benches in your trailer, that 12 LBs in total. And remember its a workbench, its gonna get banged up, sanded, cut, chipped..... all in the field. thanks again.... Lets to Ultra light Plywood

[@yadabotbingo]

Check out MDO plywood 1/2 inch (exterior sign boards). They come primed and painted in white. It's an excellent rigid plywood, A+ grade that avoids twist or warping. Best stuff also for fixturing jigs.

[@sjdorst]

LIghter weight MOSDEF. This is shop furniture and will acquire dings and scratches unless you treat it with kid gloves. It also maintains its functionality no matter what the finish. As long as the layers don't start peeling apart, I'm OK with small "blowouts". Moreover, for me, the greater attraction is that this is an easily portable workbench. And when you're talking portability, lower weight is always desirable unless it compromises function.

[@danielallen2000]

Probably worth continuing to go even lighter (maybe shave a few inches off the length...) to get below OSHA's 50# single man lift requirements. First thing you should do with a work bench is smack it with a hammer and drop some paint on it anyways, they are for working on and making things, not for looking pretty. just my $0.02

[@deandagostino9305]

Is having both offerings a possibility? Buying a product, my OCD kicks in and I want it to be perfect out of the box. Any imperfections should be caused by me. For my personal needs, I'd prefer the heavier ply. Honestly, I'd love the option to buy it in a 3/4" version, as I plan to mount it to a permanent base. I know the original intent was for portability though, and for the ones lugging this thing around, every pound counts.

[@johnswolter]

bellyonthemove built the bench as two segments that are latched together. The weight per segment is far less. However you must add the weight for one joining face & hardware as redundant for each joined segment. That would be 64 lbs / 2 plus added joining weight. I'm thinking for a full length bench it may need a 3d support horse in the middle and or special joining reinforcement structure to make it as stiff as the original. Any number of segments could be joined together to form different sized benches for different purposes. Segment joining for stiffness is the key for versatility. If that can be designed, then product variants, I believe. would explode. Segments would become the building block; joining could extend the bench for any purpose.

[@captbill279]

What about finding a more suitable bit for the CNC machine that does the production or maybe find the right rpm or feed rate? Gotta be a fancy bit available to accommodate the veneer.

[@markpalmer5311]

I’m a garage workshop guy, so the weight issue isn’t as big a deal to me. It’s important when I move it, but my current PCW is already dinged up and unpretty, so I could care less about veneer blowouts or little voids. Bottom line, go for the weight reduction and explain - and limit your exposure to returns from - little aesthetic issues.

[@TheSmartWoodshop]

We need your feedback. If we choose the lighter higher tech path then some visual imperfections are going to happen. If we choose the heavier ac ply then we will have fewer imperfections.Give us your thoughts.

[@MrColoskyj]

Ron Paulk my vote is to stick with the heavier material for the sake of longevity

[@garycrumrine9538]

While I don't disagree, my experience is that a well used bench is going to get nicked up either way. In the antique world they call it patina.

[@JW-mx3qg]

Since you are already a high volume user of the Moreland ply, Is there a way to contact them and ask them to Engeneer the same thin/light plywood BUT on one side a heavier top ply (like the 3/4) that way lighter is accomplished but you have the durability where it matters? Just a thought

[@JasonTaylor1]

As he commented in the video if they can get a heaver face ply that would be the best of both. Even a downgrade in face veneer grade but heavy with no voids.

[@hamroad1956]

6 pounds might sound incidental to some, but, trust an old carpenter forced to quit due to severe arthritis and degenerative-disk disease: 6 pounds times x number of years could end up being the difference from you ending up like me or not. It all adds-up gentlemen.

[@roberthukill8821]

May cost a little more up front for material an shipping but the end result i feel is worth it!!

[@joedaq6678]

Personally, I would go with the "A" Grade and a Varnish/ Urethane OR use the Ultralight and a white high pressure laminate. Why is cause, No matter what type of Job site. A Clear open space means either the Home Owners or Other Trades are gonna dump Stuff in it when I'm not on site. The Laminate might be heavier but will definitely last longer

[@clintmyrick4128]

Look for Kraft paper top in the ultra-light plywood (1 surface MDO-type ply). Don't know if it is made, but would solve the aesthetic problem.

[@615installations]

I’ve purchased your plans and a professional myself. I’ve put off building this bench because of weight concerns. I work within a specialty trade and clean tools are a MUST. However, for me, lighter weight equals higher speed and overall ease of use. Stability is more important than minor blemishes. I like the previous comment about having a “home woodworker grade” and “professional grade”. If I had to choose one over the other, I’d choose the lighter version (and pre-disclosing the potential issues of blowout at the point of sale). I’m loving the idea!

[@matttownsend83]

Lightweight would always be my choice. Why not continue the weight reduction by cutting the holes in the bottom panel as well? Also I’ve put holes in 3/4” holes in the side panels of mine as well, just 4 on the ends and 8 on the sides (I’ve made 3 access/tool storage holes, on the long edges), small weight saving but really useful when you want to clamp wood on its edge to plane etc.

[@garycrumrine9538]

As others have said, a bench that is used will have battle scars. I don't care about voids, cut marks, stains or paint. They become part of the bench. It isn't a piece of furniture in some museum. Your bench is a tool. Heck I am not concerned if it is perfectly flat or level either. Feet get adjusters to account for wobble. Most floors are not level anyway so I don't worry too much about it knowing I built in adjustability into the final product. Just buy the plans and build it. Change it up to fit your personal needs.and make some saw dust. We do this to escape stress, so chill out and worry about whether you have enough cold ones in the fridge for the inevitable guests that arrive when they hear the tools working.

[@adameldeen5427]

Have you thought about using half inch Baltic Birch with laminate on both sides?

[@LelandFord]

I would rather have the more durable AC ply rather than the 10% lighter product that is more fragile and subject to tear out. When buying a brand new product that I paid good money for, I would expect it to have high quality crisply milled edges rather than chipped out veneer. I can't imagine FastCap building a product that is cosmetically compromised.

[@TheOneWhoMightBe]

It might go against Fastcap's LEAN philosophy, but they could always offer two versions: heavy but pristine, and light but with marks. Let demand decide. They look to do everything on CNC machines and in batches, so swapping out material shouldn't be too big a hassle; it's only the storage of the finished product that becomes an issue.

[@monon1971]

Lighter, Lighter, Lighter, It's a working tool. When I scuff if up , I won't buy a new one. I will live with it.

[@rogermathews3035]

Lighter is better. I built the PTS with A/C ply and it is 6 pounds too heavy lol. I noticed a change in the sawhorses on the tongue portion that sits into the work bench bottom, is the smaller tongue on the front and back of the sawhorse easier to align the bench when setting it up?

[@micssticksnpipes]

Its a mobile "work bench" so I think weight is most important. Once you run your festool saw over it too deep once its not perfect, we have all done it!!! Im sure giving people the option to choose would be your best bet. I work off a 1 inch mdf mft style sheet on horses. Dont have the kind of room here in the uk in houses.

[@tomh6391]

Any updates on what direction Fastcap will go, Ron? Lighter sounds better to me!

[@sammillar2011]

Definitely ultralight, anything to make the work day easier on my body

[@stevegaymer9764]

No one wants to look at blow outs. I want it more solid on top. It is not worth the 6 lbs. I believe that esthetics make a difference. The workbenches I work off of at work are several times more solid than what you have. For home, the 3/4 would work fine. I like the knock down portability.

[@Joe6445]

I would go for lightweight, your main competition is your own design, built out of materials that can easily be bought for the local home improvement store. You need to offer something that they won't allow a DIY guy to get as easily. I think David Allens comment about under 50pounds is a very interesting one as well.

[@MikeyDonna]

My second comment , what about staying with the heavier material but offer a smaller version, possibly 25- 30% smaller for those that appearance is important and don’t need the full size ?

[@MJCPeters]

If I build one from your plans, I have the option of using a prettier, heavier piece for the top or lighter weight. I'm not sure of your market for the premade version, but I would guess that might be the group that uses it in a home shop, and would prefer it to be pretty. I made my Paulk workbench from scrap sheathing not caring what it looked like, but it ended up looking so good l put a poly finish on it, and now I find myself buffing out scratches😄, I love it THAT MUCH.

[@MJCPeters]

Another thought, your greatest weight savings comes from the trademark Paulk oval cutouts, is there a possibility of using similar cutouts on the bottom sheets without sacrificing structure.

[@Regnarrussell]

Seems like just moving the clamp holes a little further in and out would produce a better finish.

[@e.l.reible2013]

This is a hard question to answer since I've never worked with this particular light weight plywood. I've never been a fan of thin veneer for anything but looks, my fear is that the abuse of use will have the top layer lifting in places where impacts occur and where the edges get dinged. My safe bet is keep the same material unless of course a thicker top veneer shows up.

[@NateCougill]

Any chance of topping it with black p-lam? Slick, durable, and cheap. I'd buy that.

[@michaelgray528]

I vote for the thicker veneer... over the 6# wt savings

[@eagleridge4524]

I have built your workbenches and used the thin veneer ply for my reseau stands and outfeed tables, after 6 months use having the thin veneer chip away really makes my tops look gross, the tops are still very functional but the chip outs really bother me, I also used some laminate on top of 2 paulk benches and I like them way better all my guys grab the laminated top benches to avoid making the chips worse on the other tops, longer lasting and durability outways weight and beauty in a tool 100% of the time in my book.

[@eagleridge4524]

further explanation into our needs, I have 9 employees and we build homes from dirt up, foundations, slabs decorative concrete, pavers , frame ( finish framing not rough framing, that's just how we frame to the 32nd) timber framing, siding, cabinets, finish trim. Our needs for tops are durability, I built paulk benches and trailer storage for convenience , accuracy, organization and reliability not weight , thank you Ron for sharing your ideas and craft.

[@markwigley9185]

Considering there is only a 6 lb. difference in weight, I would go with the heavier material. The only benefit I could see in using lighter material, is if the cost to ship is reduced making it more affordable. But I doubt that the shipping is less being it is only 6 lbs. lighter

[@tammpapeari6873]

Hi Ron, Maybe you could use a heavier top, like a 3/4 AC plywood, and regular 5/8 sheets for the rest of the workbench ? Mauruuru from Tahiti 🌴😎

[@davidmatke248]

6lbs lighter doesn't seem like a significant weight reduction. I think the heavier plywood is better.

[@TheSmartWoodshop]

I work with my benches​ in the field and weight is a top priority and 6lbs or 10% is a very, very big deal to me.

[@gabrielbromberg9255]

David Matke carry that bench up or down a flight of stairs, or unload and load it for a week and then tell me 6lbs doesn't make a difference. Guys that do their work in the field are going to want it lighter!

[@MNCasaPro]

If there's any chance Moreland is willing to change their product - to a little bit thicker surface veneer - that would be awesome. Not only for your bench, but I would campaign the local lumberyards to carry it.

[@MNCasaPro]

How many plys is the Moreland? The stability and strength of a good multiply outweighs the chipping. I love using Baltic birch plywood for this reason.

[@constructionlife5059]

3/4 heavy top 5/8 lighter for the rest of it best of both worlds! And if you can't lift it at 60 something pounds 56 isn't going to work for you either. Thanks Paul for the great vids!!!!!

[@hugavet3049]

PS Flip that thing up on end and set it on top of the saw horses. I did this while cleaning it. Then a gust of wind blew it over. BUSTED! See if you can build it strong enough to get knocked over without breaking.

[@robthewaywardwoodworker9956]

for just a small weight advantage, I think I would prefer the AC. I don't need it to look fancy. Just my opinion.

[@gregorylondos534]

6 lbs does "Not" make for "Ultralite" Status in my book... It would take 20% less weight to classify for that...

[@kennethgreenwood1362]

Personally I don’t think it matters how it looks. It’s going to get beat up anyway. Does the ultralight plywood have any bearing on price? Was the change made strictly for weight purposes?

[@ronstark1927]

Thicker would be best to me . The 6 pounds is not enough in my opinion.

[@kevinsigler6747]

I would prefer lighter however, I'm biased. I built my Paulk Total Station out of ALL 3/4" heavy plywood. No 1/2"! I got blowout because it is less expensive plywood and the veneer is really thin. I paid 39.00 per sheet locally. I wanted ultra-lite plywood but it is not available locally.

[@speedbump0619]

Honestly, if It's 64 lbs, then your target should definitely be less than 50 lbs to get below OSHA's single man lift limit. That would open it up to a broader business usage. For the "quality" question you could consider selling an A and a B quality. Same build and materials, with the A quality being more expensive and pre-inspected for no veneer quality issues

[@pgauldie]

I agree weight over looks, however we are talking about just over 1 bag of sugar and really the weight saving as per a single customer complaint (that is if the customer is king). I understand after a day in the shop it will be scuffed, but that is a customers privilege. A person not attached to this channel purchasing one will not be enjoying the benefit of this discussion. So for total customer satisfaction I recommend heavier duty material if you cannot cover it with a melamine or other veneer. With it primarily being the top surface in question cant it be done in a mixed where the top is heavier while the sides, base, ribs, and legs (where possible) are of the Lighter material. If I purchase something I want a well finished product.

[@12foraname]

If it were a tool that I picked up 25-50x per day, I'd choose based on weight. But I'll only pick up this workbench 2-3x per job. Weight can be a good thing in a workbench.

[@kamleo1685]

Ron, on one of your videos you stated that you are going metric with your workbench design. If you are using less than 20mm thick material won't the blowouts affect the alignment and/or stability of parf dogs?

[@MikeyDonna]

How about offering it both weights .

[@misterz2719]

when are they going to make the table for the miter saw

[@okpail]

It depends on you customers. Get the data/facts. My guess is: professionals who travel a lot: go with the lighter. For the hobbyist who buys it for a more static home situation I would say go with the heavier stuff. For this last category I would guess that you get less complaints: esthetics when buying new can be important...

[@brandontanksley898]

Me personally. I would take the lighter weight. A small amount of blow out isn’t that big of deal to me. I do apartment work and some time have to go to the second floor to remodel units. So the lighter weight to me is a must have.

[@abelnavarro6649]

6 pound is worth the cosmetic sacrifice. You gain more on long run.

[@sammillar2011]

I think people using this bench for a living (moving it twice a day) would go with ultralight. But people using it in the weekend would rather the AC ply

[@whitevanman8703]

Yes it is worth a little blowout to have a bench 6lbs lighter. It is a work tool to be used on site, the only people who will care about aesthetics are those with beautiful dust free workshops where they stand about admiring their tools. 6lbs lighter means a lot if you have to get it out/in of the truck every day, too many people have to retire too early because of shifting too many unnecessary heavy weights.

[@billedis5482]

I would have no problem with a little blow-out here and there. It is a work table! I do not think it would impact the dogs being used. Bill

[@6stringsandapick]

I don't care too much about the blow out, but I might be concerned with the thin veneer peeling off in time. I personally would do 1/2” sides and top and 5/8 on the bottom (seems to me the bottom will get the most stress and abuse over time)

[@jhamby8773]

I'd guess the DIY types (like myself) won't value weight savings, especially if they come at extra cost, because I'll never have a need to take my workbench further than my driveway. What is important to me is cost. I haven't built my own because I'd like the accuracy of a CNC'd top, but I still haven't been able to justify the total cost including shipping to purchase even a CNC'd top from FastCap.

[@mikebernard4762]

I would prefer the thicker veneer even though it adds more weight.

[@breb77]

I to would like a surface that is more durable . Maybe others don't care on the break through of that thin veneer but I worked with thin veneer material and don't care for it and really wouldn't care to purchase an item where it blows through the surface right away. I could live with splitting the difference as CU96821 proposed and thin on bottom and a more durable sheet on the top side.

[@FreeLander5280]

I've withheld from buying one to make mine from morland ply. I'd pay to have it from you if you move this direction

[@eaglecot]

I'm with Tyler. Get thicker veneer.

[@SlowandExpensive]

Skinny with blow out or fat and pretty? Hummm? Sounds like a late night pub decision.

[@akbychoice]

slow and expensive have another drink or two. Your choice

[@armindo54]

Ron, not everyone who buys the Paulk workbench is going to be a strapping young buck. I am 64 and weight at my age is a primary factor. A 6 lb difference of the workbench itself and the lighter weight folding legs could make a big difference between struggling or being able to handle carrying the workbench safely.

[@jronmanbuilds]

Why not have the top use the heavier ply then the rest use the lighter ply?

[@DerekAndersonMinnesota]

Lighter!!! I bet you could lighten it 1/4 more without loosing much structural integrity! It is my understanding that circles in a vertical load doesn't reduce strength at all so the legs could be 1/3 lighter.

[@ShanepxII]

I’d rather the thicker veneer. I’d be upset if I got product with blowouts delivered!

[@ShanepxII]

BTW, I messaged you on you Paulk Homes FB page. Finished my Paulk Workbench yesterday. I modified slightly and also used 3/4” birch on top for more durability and It turned out amazing!!! It’s too pretty to use now...lol.

[@andygullion5182]

It's a hard call when functionality conflicts with cosmetics . In this situation , it's making the call that appeals to the majority of buyers . It'd be neat if they sold a "Paulk Lite" as an option.

[@TheOneWhoMightBe]

If people are bitching that there's a small blowout in a WORKbench, then I'd go with the heavier ply with thicker laminations. Really, you're not going to be moving it about that much and 3kgs isn't a big deal. If I was building a new one for home I may well use the lighter material because I need to move it at the end of every day so I can put the car back in the garage and it's going to get banged up anyway. My girlfriend was watching the video alongside me and similarly declared "It's a workbench; you want it to last!" Of course if you can get the ultralight with a thicker veneer so you don't get the blowouts then that's the best of both worlds.

[@casycasy5199]

go to the lite plywood chip outs i would expect if i got one

[@shawnsmith4214]

It’s a workbench not a piece of furniture. It’s going to get dirty, dinged and dented from normal use anyway. If I were to buy one, the weight would be a bigger deal to me. Thanks Ron

[@m3rdpwr]

If I were to buy one right now, I would want the heavier, thicker veneer. 10 years from now, I may wish I had gone with the lighter version.

[@vaughnwesterby5162]

Not worth it for 6 lbs. IMO. Much rather have the thicker lam.

[@departureblue]

Ron; you're a beast. My vote is for lighter weight. Our bodies are not invincible, save your strength for when it's important.

[@AdamWeil]

Those minor blemishes are totally worth the 6 pound drop in weight! Esp if the cost isn't too much higher

[@donaldcostello8312]

Thicker veneer, the thin one will get to beat up after time, and the dents and missing veneer will snag wood when slid across the top

[@TheSmartWoodshop]

The thinner veneers actually dent less as there are more laminations also the more laminations are more stables and have less delamination. The only sacrifice to thinner laminations is sanding through and some tearing out when running on the CNC. The positives for structure and durability are on the side of more thinner laminations.

[@halfglassfull]

I like to buy things once. 6 lbs is nothing in my setup as I would not move it around everyday but YMMV. Yes, it is going to get dinged up but chip out goes beyond the cosmetic/aesthetic as the top ages and you get situations where splinters become an issue, sliding things around and catching on the veneer becomes another issue. I vote for thicker veneer for longevity and peace of mind. If it ups the cost so be it ---- not like you will have to keep buying new ones. IMO tools should be built to last a lifetime.

[@garryqualls5340]

After reading through the comments, I'm wondering why not just offer two SKUs? A lighter one that costs $30 more and the current one? Give the people what they want. I would choose the lighter ones, personally.

[@gabrielbromberg9255]

It's a workbench! I want the lighter weight. Weight is by far the most important thing not how it looks. I've been using morland ply ever since you introduced it to us and the little blow outs are so minor even more so than other plywood that I've used.

[@Chiropractic1Sunrise]

6 lbs and it want last as long. Go with the original plywood

[@TheSmartWoodshop]

Lighter stronger and will last longer. Thick laminates do not equal durability or stability. My point in this video was that I want to choose stronger, more stable, and lighter but might sacrifice on aesthetics. It seems lots of consumers prefer looks over durability and stability.