Unboxing and building the Logosol F2+ chainsaw mill

[@nigelsansom2407]

Thx for this video, which is super helpful. I have the F2 and it was a major problem to get the guide rail flat, so it was kind of interesting to see an honest appraisal of how hard it really is to get four 1m sections in a nice straight line! My question is about the log lifters though... I have not used my mill yet, and want to ensure I have installed them correctly. It looks like it's only possible to wind the lifters up, and to go down you have to disengage the ratchet cam. My worry is that if there's a heavy log on the log beds this would make a very fast, hard and dangerous descent. Am I missing something about the way in which these work..? I would be very interested to learn before I go put something heavy on it. Many thanks again for sharing.

[@Hackish]

Thanks for that! Winding down the lifters is not really a big challenge. Even with super heavy logs, you simple crank a quarter turn, disengage the cam and slowly lower it. For lighter logs you can just let it go, it doesn't go super fast.

[@nigelsansom2407]

@@Hackish Brilliant! Thanks for this advice. Cheers, Nigel

[@jonathanpickles5369]

Great video

[@Hackish]

Thank you! And takes for taking the time to comment, much appreciated!

[@woofy548]

what do you do if the saw has captive bar nuts?

[@Hackish]

I only have captive nuts on my MS261, so I haven't tried this myself, but looks like there's a special tool needed: arbtalk.co.uk/forums/topic/69536-removing-captive-nuts-on-ms261/

[@damonvis7783]

Have a video on how you got a straight cut on you mill?

[@Hackish]

Apart from ensuring you have a chainsaw that is cutting straight, there's nothing to it (Check out the other videos for operating cutting). If you're having trouble with your saw not cutting straight, try the following: 1) Ensure bot left and right cutters on the chain are equally sharp and roughly the same length (or try with a new/different chain) 2) Ensure your bar is equally worn on both left and right side, if not, you need to re-shape it (or try to flip it around and see if that helps). I had 2) happen to me and it was almost impossible to tell the difference, but a small 0.5 mm difference made the saw track upwards. I sanded it on my belt sander to a perfect 90 degrees and it worked great after that,

[@900heritage]

Can’t use Stihl 661 C-M in USA ...... The Alabama stihl rep says they are not made for it ..... not tough enough ..... and the captured bar nuts prevent Logosol mill attachment ..... and there is no ‘nutless’ cover made. ‘

[@Hackish]

I'm using the Stihl MS 880. That's certainly more than enough, but I've seen and heard people use the MS 661 as well, but it's a bit of a mixed bag of how happy people are. I guess it depends on what you're milling (type of wood, width of stock).

[@kentcochran8311]

@@Hackish for ms 880 , how long is your bar?

[@Hackish]

@@kentcochran8311 I have two bars, one at 24" and the other 48"(!!)