Understanding Pleated Trousers | Making Denim Gurkhas

Looking at what makes the patterns for pleated pants interesting, and making Gurkha waisted pants out of teal denim with as many raw denim details as possible.
#Denim #Gurkha #Gurkhas #Handmade

[@scottystg]

Stoked to find a channel like your's! There's the right amount of explanation to help a complete newbie like myself understand what's happening, without so much detail that would be necessary for an actual set-by-step guide. Very enjoyable to watch. Love the notion of elevating a material that's historically utilitarian, into something more refined. And I'll also be a sucker for watching people do things by hand. It's encouraging to be reminded that a beautiful button hole doesn't always require hundreds of dollars worth of machinery. Keep up the good work!

[@D0J0P]

They look great! Personally, I think pants should sit at your waist which is on the belly button, or maybe even a little higher. It doesn't look like it sits below the belly button for you, which is nice!

[@johannageisel5390]

As somebody with a bit of a difference between waist and butt width, this is perfect for me! Thanks.

[@sbaumgartner9848]

I've watched a couple of your videos. I like it when men make their own clothes. I like how you introduce the topic and your design and fabric choice approach. You do a great job of sewing and I really like your choice of teal denim. You have the right body to wear this style. However, for all of your meticulousness, I am surprised you didn't iron your fabric to remove the wrinkles before cutting out the pattern.

[@distressedtailor]

That's probably the most thorough review of my videos I've gotten so far, I really appreciate it! As for the ironing, if I can prattle on for probably too long, I have a weird mixed inspiration from raw denim and what I was taught when I worked at a menswear store, with the rest being self taught so I can have these weird gaps in my knowledge. Raw denim has this sort of minimal ironing ideology because too much ironing would flatten the natural texture of the material in a way. This sort of makes sense when you're talking about denim with uneven tension (a weirdly prized detail in the denim world) that's taken right off the bolt for cutting, but maybe not as much for me with my consumer denim fabric that's been folded up and packed in a box, but that didn't stop me from wanting to be true to form. On the menswear end, the tailor who taught me a lot of the basics told me that if I ironed too much I would be forcing the fabric into a different shape and not following the feeling of the fabric. I took that a little too much to heart and also I think misunderstood it a bit. She was probably just being cautious since I was using an industrial iron with a vacuum board and could very easy shrink or stretch the fabric if I wasn't careful, but I just lumped it together with the denim ideology and didn't think on it much after. She also taught me how to shrink and shape fabric with the press, but I never went back to check on my basics so I never really thought about it again until my yellow waistcoat video where I studied up on tailoring a lot more and realized (about halfway through filming it mind you) that I probably should've been ironing a lot more throughout the entire process. Anyways, tldr, I should buy a larger ironing board lol

[@kevonskeete5129]

This video is fantastic and exactly what I've been looking for. I've been wanting to make gurkhas for a while. This will definitely help. Thanks so much.

[@Hgardner36]

Those turned out wonderfully! And I love the outfits you put together!

[@genxsewista1066]

Wonderful outcome ,you pay great attention to details. Takes me back to my days of wearing Z Cavaricci pants .

[@farboud3671]

Bravo! I really like the way you explain your mentality and the reasoning behind the decisions you make. It's all these small details that make the difference in the end.

[@JZL003]

I'm glad I finally trained youtube to find me creators like this, this is great! Really inspiring Can you say more about the orange jacket you showed at the end. Was that also self-drafted? Where did you find the fabric? I'm not sure I'd be able to pull off an orange shirt or pants but a jacket gives a lot of possibilities for more fun fabrics/colors, I think

[@distressedtailor]

Glad you like it! Yes the yellow/orange jacket was one I also drafted myself. I didn't film it though :( Fabric for the jacket is "Golden Denim" from Blackbird Fabrics in Vancouver. The teal denim is from there as well, they've been great so far!

[@adrielrowley]

For your information, neither are shown on their website. Hope this helps someone.

[@howitzeroutdoors]

Those are some sweet trousers, bro! Great work!

[@lilichus]

Gracias por tu vídeo estoy confeccionando un pantalon gurkha me has ayudado mucho

[@d3mii29]

Bravo 👏🏼

[@cre-k8-ive]

I just want to thank you for this! I was looking into pleats to alter some pants and I'm so glad to finally see someone point out how the extra fabric allows easy motion while the structure keeps a strong silhouette! All the other people talked about the appearance so I was starting to wonder if the ease of motion was just my wishful thinking.

[@distressedtailor]

Yeah it was a similar experience for me, pleats (or any other design element) has to be rooted in some sort of function. If it looks better I want to know why, and if it feels better I want to know why, even better if it does both!

[@derekginter7626]

Awesome job bro! I haven't played with this style of pants, but I love this and I could have a lot of fun rocking these pants. I already know how I would style them! Great job!!!

[@ac14081408]

Those are really cool. I need a pair.

[@mryoda17]

Great video, really in depth and well edited! Would love to see more from you!

[@tarotcaba]

Wow amazing. ❤

[@kwtattoos]

Great video and really well explained

[@lawrencejlittle]

did you make a video showing how to draft the pattern for these pants? I love your specific style but need help finding a pattern and I don’t mind drafting one based upon my measurements

[@kimberleyjane2338]

Hi. I thought the thumbnail pic was a skirt. I was so excited! Awe😥 The way you can turn your waist strap easily is by using a skinny long crochet hook, like the one you use for tucking in serger threads. 🙂

[@distressedtailor]

Lol you can still make it into a skirt! Don't let your dreams be dreams! Yeah I have that hook thing but I still find it difficult for turning out closed end channels like that (stiff denim doesn't help)

[@kimberleyjane2338]

@@distressedtailor Thanks! I will try to make a jean skirt with your waist design. It's really pretty.

[@rakshakannan993]

love everything about this!

[@isidrogomez9767]

This was insanse! Amazing job!

[@jennyundah4583]

These look so great!

[@tgrsparrow]

Crochet hooks helped me with flipping narrow pieces.

[@wendylarsenlaw]

Impressive

[@tongresa77]

INCREDIBLE

[@-atreya52]

Masterpiece!

[@thomasmccray1517]

Your great

[@kevinmontenegro1793]

Is this sowing pattern available somewhere?

[@TheNormalLive]

really enjoyed your way of explaining :)

[@distressedtailor]

Thanks! Glad you liked it :)

[@mateuszmrowiec4265]

fantastic!!!

[@ginnysteele9511]

Leather thimble… awesome!

[@ginnysteele9511]

I really, REALLY like that waistband treatment, and the button fly. Very nice job indeed!

[@podi9090]

loved this so much! thank you for sharing 🖤

[@Bellroysg]

Very beautiful. I think I'll get one

[@mmailetsaneelizabeth3496]

Hi I loved your video inspiring 👌

[@toobalkain]

very good camera presence, btw, an air of quiet confidence, ethnic ambiguity doesn't hurt, either, maybe it's the glasses but I first thought you were Asian.

[@WilleundKraft.]

really impressive

[@Mr-R.R.]

Pairing jeans with blazers and sportcoats is actually pretty easy to pull off. Just make sure it isn't skinny jeans and drapes more like a trouser and when solid colors - darker colors are actually better to make it look more dressy.

[@riccardozanetti2893]

I think it's more of a matter of choosing the right sportcoat. Worsted wool doesn't go well with denim, but tweed and corduroy jackets are more appropriate

[@Mr-R.R.]

@@riccardozanetti2893 also this

[@gadohimself]

Hi! Where can we find the pattern for these trousers? I can't seem to find it in your archive :(

[@juanel86]

Hello! What a beautiful end result - well done! Thank you for the detailed work-along. Also your hand-finished details are so beautiful, and it makes such a difference! I'm just starting my sewing journey and this process was really helpful, as I learn best by watching people work and physically trialing it out myself. I love pleated trousers and they make up 80% of my pants, but definitely would like less dressy variations. I have a lightweight wool one that I think cloned will work well with a Gurkha waist in some cotton twill - so, thanks for the idea! Two quick questions: - What is that small hand Singer called? I am absolutely in love with it and would like to find one myself (even better if I find one in need of restoring!) - I'm not familiar with raw denim at all - is it standard to not press in between stitching, or is that just your process? Cheers!

[@distressedtailor]

Glad you liked it! The small hand cranked machine is a Singer 20, it was actually made as a sewing machine for children, but because of the sturdy all metal construction they tend to last a long time. Raw denim is just denim that hasn't been faded or washed prior to wear, so in general pressing is kept to a minimum but I press everything at the end and not after every seam. That's just personal preference though.

[@SimplyStitchy]

Cool! Awesome video and very nice trousers! I think your screwdriver thingy is a bradawl. Thanks for sharing your design process and your machines! The tiny one is super cute. There aren't many machines that size that can cope with denim. Do you know what the model number is?

[@distressedtailor]

Glad you liked it! The small hand turn machine is a Singer 20. Handy little chainstitch machine, had to be real careful using it on denim though.

[@shayehey]

These are fantastic! Any idea where to find a pattern for Gurkhas?

[@distressedtailor]

Honestly I make my own patterns so I've never had to source them or buy. But, if you have or can get a pleated pants pattern, you can take the waistband, double it's height, and at each end add a curve into the thin belt extension. Hopefully that helps!

[@thehandler_666]

Hello there! Really loved the video. Of late I myself have been looking forward to buy a gurkha trousers for myself but unluckily the tailors haven't heard of this style and they do not have any reference to go to for making one. Would it be possible for you to share some design pictures that I can take to my tailors?

[@toobalkain]

I dunno, I'm still not entirely sold on pleats, flat front high rises tend to be a cleaner look on most people but pleats do look good on some guys, usually of taller, slimmer build, they don't seem to be for everyone, or maybe it's the variations, single, double, forward, reverse, loops or side adjusters, the positioning of the loops if they are there, the height of the rise, it's more complicated than getting a jacket that fits right for god's sake.

[@renii4819]

This entire time I thought the waist was bellow the belly... ah man.

[@Fstop313]

Can you turn oversized pants into pleated ghurkas?

[@lachlanC50]

I'm in love with this look, i want to help bring this back. Looking around , it is really Niche, to buy them is over $100 and their arent many patterns that i can find that seem close enough for someone as novice at sewing as me. Do you have a recomendation ( for patterns or pre-made ) to help with this kind of thing?

[@distressedtailor]

In terms of patterns, it's hard for me to recommend since I made my own (and copied the waistband from a pair I had). You could do the same with any pleated pants pattern and make your own waistband if that's in your skillset. In terms of premade trousers I've not been terribly happy with the ones I've had, which is why I made my own. If you have $400 to burn Rubinacci is the og choice, but I wish I could recommend something less pretentious lol

[@mantisbiker2537]

What do you call that paper that you showed your pattern on at the beginning of the video? Oak Tag? Trying to find something similar in France.

[@distressedtailor]

I just got some cardboard from a craft store, didn't really pay attention to specifically what it was honestly. Oak tag is thinner and lighter in colour, and more purpose made for patterns. Any large enough piece of cardboard or cardstock should do the trick, good luck!

[@curtisanderson327]

This is amazing! Are you selling the pattern?

[@distressedtailor]

Not selling the pattern but I have a video in the works on drafting it from scratch with some improvements. Not sure when it'll be up though, videos take a lot of time for me.

[@Fariha.x]

Please make a video on how to cut this particular design. It would really be helpful if you can.

[@distressedtailor]

Definitely something I have planned for the future! Unfortunately these videos take a long time to make so I don't know when it'll be up, but it's in the works

[@thespiritsdemise]

Absolutely love the colour of that denim, where did you get it?

[@distressedtailor]

I got it from Blackbird Fabrics in Vancouver! They don't seem to have it at the moment but they have a great selection

[@KRyann10]

Perfect. Inspiring video. Could you make your pattern available online? I am wanting to to make a similar pant with either hemp or ramie (nettle) fabric that is strong but breathable for work in the field. Would you say denim is more challenging to work with than hemp? Thanks!

[@distressedtailor]

Unfortunately I'm not too experienced with creating patterns digitally or releasing them online, sorry! Also denim can be challenging to work with because of its stiffness and thickness, my work with hemp and linen has been generally easier than denim, but I also haven't worked with any hemp of a similar weight to denim so it's hard to draw a direct comparison.

[@pappywinky4749]

What kind of pattern did you use for these trousers?! They look awesome

[@distressedtailor]

It's a jeans pattern (trouser with a straight outseam) expanded to accommodate pleats. One day I'll make a video about how to draft that pattern but life is super hectic at the moment

[@pappywinky4749]

@@distressedtailor I would love that, I'll keep an eye open for it whenever you decide to make it :) Thanks!

[@SkyProtonFood]

Can you share w how to make a doble-buckle gurkha?

[@rkgki]

What is that little hand cranked machine? So cool.

[@distressedtailor]

It's a Singer model 20. Roughly 100 years old, it's pretty neat!

[@garywheble4534]

Your Gurka trousers are realy jungle trousers OG 44 patern although they were in use before 44 44 is the year a different stile of webbing came into being and at the time the OG Olive Green had no designation .the west is of belted cross over stile this is to take into account the weight loss tht happens to long time in the jungle due to the lack of high nutrition food the trousers weast band is high due to the support and comfort it provides to the wearing of heavey webbed belt and pouches around the users waste

[@distressedtailor]

Always appreciate such a detailed comment! It's entirely possible that you're correct, and I'm no expert on the history of WWII era trousers, but Gurkha is very commonly used in the modern day to refer to this style of trouser. However, it wouldn't be the first time the fashion industry has misused a name foreign to them (if that is the case). Here's an example from the rake, not the most impartial website in the world but I feel it helps illustrate the way many of us understand what a Gurkha style pant is today therake.com/stories/a-history-of-the-gurkha-trousers/ That being said, I did look up jungle trousers, and unless it's a specific name for a pattern for sale (which sometimes have very specific/unique names to differentiate small changes in styles), then it might mean something different. I found historical reenactment "jungle trousers" from 1943 and one museum that had 1944 trousers (though I think jungle in that context was to describe the shade of green and not the trousers themselves) and both have 2 belts stacked on top of eachother in the same direction rather than 2 belts of opposing direction as in my trouser. Here's an example of a vintage pair of 1944 jungle shorts that were for sale www.militariazone.com/trousers-shorts/scarce-original-1944-dated-british-army-shorts-jungle-/itm28151 If you have a source for some of that info of yours I would love to look it over!

[@sezman224]

Nice detailing,please how old are these machines?

[@distressedtailor]

The hand turned machine is a third edition Singer 20 which started manufacture in 1926, but I don't know when my exact machine was made, somewhere between 1926 and 1950 I think.

[@samirbinasif9049]

Brother can you explain a little bit more and make a video of cutting gurkha trauser i am a little bit confuse after watching

[@distressedtailor]

I am working on one but I'm slow to upload because this is just a fun hobby and these videos are a lot of work. What are you confused by?

[@tobywillis6758]

Did you buy the pattern for these or make your own? Share details or link please

[@distressedtailor]

I made the pattern myself. Hoping to make a video about drafting a pants pattern from scratch but I haven't had the time.

[@matthewpaw4184]

This is amazing! Would you consider making them to sell?

[@distressedtailor]

Thanks! I definitely don't have the capacity for commissions or sales, and don't think I'll be able to handle that kind of production anytime soon.

[@l.r.171]

How wide is the waistband ?

[@distressedtailor]

About 2.5 inches

[@l.r.171]

@@distressedtailor Thank you !

[@ksingh952]

question: can these trousers waist be altered?

[@distressedtailor]

A seam can be created in the center of the back if it needs to be brought in. But generally the adjustability on the sides is enough.

[@ksingh952]

@@distressedtailor Thats good, because I ordered one size up as per their recommendation; I guess it sit comfortably high waist. But it’s good to know that it can be altered if I need to size down if needed

[@mr.learning9]

the texture of your fabric looks nice, the idea is wonderful , but just, it looks a little flabby around your thigh

[@distressedtailor]

I prefer "girthy" tyvm

[@brandantaylor5880]

Would you be willing to sell your pattern?

[@distressedtailor]

More than anything it's not really in a sellable state, the pleats aren't marked and it's not prepared to be scaled to different sizes, and honestly I wouldn't even know how to sell it to begin with, and don't think I'm a skilled enough pattern drafter so it would require a lot of work and research to prepare it for sale. Really appreciate the interest though!

[@robertbanks9825]

YES I AGREED ON THE COMMENTS B 4 ME THE STYLE OF THESE PANTS ARE BEAUTIFUL THE WAIST BAND UP HIGH COVERING THE BELLY BUTTON LIKE A CUMBERLAND IS A PERFECT PANTS MATERIAL SUCK