Looking at what makes the patterns for pleated pants interesting, and making Gurkha waisted pants out of teal denim with as many raw denim details as possible. #Denim #Gurkha #Gurkhas #Handmade
Пікірлер: 99
@scottystg2 жыл бұрын
Stoked to find a channel like your's! There's the right amount of explanation to help a complete newbie like myself understand what's happening, without so much detail that would be necessary for an actual set-by-step guide. Very enjoyable to watch. Love the notion of elevating a material that's historically utilitarian, into something more refined. And I'll also be a sucker for watching people do things by hand. It's encouraging to be reminded that a beautiful button hole doesn't always require hundreds of dollars worth of machinery. Keep up the good work!
@D0J0P2 жыл бұрын
They look great! Personally, I think pants should sit at your waist which is on the belly button, or maybe even a little higher. It doesn't look like it sits below the belly button for you, which is nice!
@johannageisel53902 жыл бұрын
As somebody with a bit of a difference between waist and butt width, this is perfect for me! Thanks.
@sbaumgartner984811 ай бұрын
I've watched a couple of your videos. I like it when men make their own clothes. I like how you introduce the topic and your design and fabric choice approach. You do a great job of sewing and I really like your choice of teal denim. You have the right body to wear this style. However, for all of your meticulousness, I am surprised you didn't iron your fabric to remove the wrinkles before cutting out the pattern.
@distressedtailor11 ай бұрын
That's probably the most thorough review of my videos I've gotten so far, I really appreciate it! As for the ironing, if I can prattle on for probably too long, I have a weird mixed inspiration from raw denim and what I was taught when I worked at a menswear store, with the rest being self taught so I can have these weird gaps in my knowledge. Raw denim has this sort of minimal ironing ideology because too much ironing would flatten the natural texture of the material in a way. This sort of makes sense when you're talking about denim with uneven tension (a weirdly prized detail in the denim world) that's taken right off the bolt for cutting, but maybe not as much for me with my consumer denim fabric that's been folded up and packed in a box, but that didn't stop me from wanting to be true to form. On the menswear end, the tailor who taught me a lot of the basics told me that if I ironed too much I would be forcing the fabric into a different shape and not following the feeling of the fabric. I took that a little too much to heart and also I think misunderstood it a bit. She was probably just being cautious since I was using an industrial iron with a vacuum board and could very easy shrink or stretch the fabric if I wasn't careful, but I just lumped it together with the denim ideology and didn't think on it much after. She also taught me how to shrink and shape fabric with the press, but I never went back to check on my basics so I never really thought about it again until my yellow waistcoat video where I studied up on tailoring a lot more and realized (about halfway through filming it mind you) that I probably should've been ironing a lot more throughout the entire process. Anyways, tldr, I should buy a larger ironing board lol
@kevonskeete51297 ай бұрын
This video is fantastic and exactly what I've been looking for. I've been wanting to make gurkhas for a while. This will definitely help. Thanks so much.
@Hgardner366 ай бұрын
Those turned out wonderfully! And I love the outfits you put together!
@genxsewista10662 жыл бұрын
Wonderful outcome ,you pay great attention to details. Takes me back to my days of wearing Z Cavaricci pants .
@farboud36713 жыл бұрын
Bravo! I really like the way you explain your mentality and the reasoning behind the decisions you make. It's all these small details that make the difference in the end.
@JZL0032 жыл бұрын
I'm glad I finally trained youtube to find me creators like this, this is great! Really inspiring Can you say more about the orange jacket you showed at the end. Was that also self-drafted? Where did you find the fabric? I'm not sure I'd be able to pull off an orange shirt or pants but a jacket gives a lot of possibilities for more fun fabrics/colors, I think
@distressedtailor2 жыл бұрын
Glad you like it! Yes the yellow/orange jacket was one I also drafted myself. I didn't film it though :( Fabric for the jacket is "Golden Denim" from Blackbird Fabrics in Vancouver. The teal denim is from there as well, they've been great so far!
@adrielrowley2 жыл бұрын
For your information, neither are shown on their website. Hope this helps someone.
@howitzeroutdoors Жыл бұрын
Those are some sweet trousers, bro! Great work!
@lilichus2 жыл бұрын
Gracias por tu vídeo estoy confeccionando un pantalon gurkha me has ayudado mucho
@d3mii29Ай бұрын
Bravo 👏🏼
@cre-k8-ive Жыл бұрын
I just want to thank you for this! I was looking into pleats to alter some pants and I'm so glad to finally see someone point out how the extra fabric allows easy motion while the structure keeps a strong silhouette! All the other people talked about the appearance so I was starting to wonder if the ease of motion was just my wishful thinking.
@distressedtailor Жыл бұрын
Yeah it was a similar experience for me, pleats (or any other design element) has to be rooted in some sort of function. If it looks better I want to know why, and if it feels better I want to know why, even better if it does both!
@derekginter7626 Жыл бұрын
Awesome job bro! I haven't played with this style of pants, but I love this and I could have a lot of fun rocking these pants. I already know how I would style them! Great job!!!
@ac140814082 жыл бұрын
Those are really cool. I need a pair.
@mryoda172 жыл бұрын
Great video, really in depth and well edited! Would love to see more from you!
@tarotcaba7 ай бұрын
Wow amazing. ❤
@kwtattoos2 жыл бұрын
Great video and really well explained
@lawrencejlittle7 ай бұрын
did you make a video showing how to draft the pattern for these pants? I love your specific style but need help finding a pattern and I don’t mind drafting one based upon my measurements
@kimberleyjane23382 жыл бұрын
Hi. I thought the thumbnail pic was a skirt. I was so excited! Awe😥 The way you can turn your waist strap easily is by using a skinny long crochet hook, like the one you use for tucking in serger threads. 🙂
@distressedtailor2 жыл бұрын
Lol you can still make it into a skirt! Don't let your dreams be dreams! Yeah I have that hook thing but I still find it difficult for turning out closed end channels like that (stiff denim doesn't help)
@kimberleyjane23382 жыл бұрын
@@distressedtailor Thanks! I will try to make a jean skirt with your waist design. It's really pretty.
@rakshakannan9932 жыл бұрын
love everything about this!
@isidrogomez97675 ай бұрын
This was insanse! Amazing job!
@jennyundah45832 жыл бұрын
These look so great!
@tgrsparrow2 жыл бұрын
Crochet hooks helped me with flipping narrow pieces.
@wendylarsenlaw3 жыл бұрын
Impressive
@tongresa772 жыл бұрын
INCREDIBLE
@-atreya528 ай бұрын
Masterpiece!
@thomasmccray15173 ай бұрын
Your great
@kevinmontenegro17935 ай бұрын
Is this sowing pattern available somewhere?
@TheNormalLive2 жыл бұрын
really enjoyed your way of explaining :)
@distressedtailor2 жыл бұрын
Thanks! Glad you liked it :)
@mateuszmrowiec42652 жыл бұрын
fantastic!!!
@ginnysteele95112 жыл бұрын
Leather thimble… awesome!
@ginnysteele95112 жыл бұрын
I really, REALLY like that waistband treatment, and the button fly. Very nice job indeed!
@podi90902 жыл бұрын
loved this so much! thank you for sharing 🖤
@Bellroysg Жыл бұрын
Very beautiful. I think I'll get one
@mmailetsaneelizabeth3496 Жыл бұрын
Hi I loved your video inspiring 👌
@toobalkain2 жыл бұрын
very good camera presence, btw, an air of quiet confidence, ethnic ambiguity doesn't hurt, either, maybe it's the glasses but I first thought you were Asian.
@WilleundKraft.3 жыл бұрын
really impressive
@Mr-R.R.2 жыл бұрын
Pairing jeans with blazers and sportcoats is actually pretty easy to pull off. Just make sure it isn't skinny jeans and drapes more like a trouser and when solid colors - darker colors are actually better to make it look more dressy.
@riccardozanetti2893 Жыл бұрын
I think it's more of a matter of choosing the right sportcoat. Worsted wool doesn't go well with denim, but tweed and corduroy jackets are more appropriate
@Mr-R.R. Жыл бұрын
@@riccardozanetti2893 also this
@gadohimself2 ай бұрын
Hi! Where can we find the pattern for these trousers? I can't seem to find it in your archive :(
@juanel862 жыл бұрын
Hello! What a beautiful end result - well done! Thank you for the detailed work-along. Also your hand-finished details are so beautiful, and it makes such a difference! I'm just starting my sewing journey and this process was really helpful, as I learn best by watching people work and physically trialing it out myself. I love pleated trousers and they make up 80% of my pants, but definitely would like less dressy variations. I have a lightweight wool one that I think cloned will work well with a Gurkha waist in some cotton twill - so, thanks for the idea! Two quick questions: - What is that small hand Singer called? I am absolutely in love with it and would like to find one myself (even better if I find one in need of restoring!) - I'm not familiar with raw denim at all - is it standard to not press in between stitching, or is that just your process? Cheers!
@distressedtailor2 жыл бұрын
Glad you liked it! The small hand cranked machine is a Singer 20, it was actually made as a sewing machine for children, but because of the sturdy all metal construction they tend to last a long time. Raw denim is just denim that hasn't been faded or washed prior to wear, so in general pressing is kept to a minimum but I press everything at the end and not after every seam. That's just personal preference though.
@SimplyStitchy2 жыл бұрын
Cool! Awesome video and very nice trousers! I think your screwdriver thingy is a bradawl. Thanks for sharing your design process and your machines! The tiny one is super cute. There aren't many machines that size that can cope with denim. Do you know what the model number is?
@distressedtailor2 жыл бұрын
Glad you liked it! The small hand turn machine is a Singer 20. Handy little chainstitch machine, had to be real careful using it on denim though.
@shayehey2 жыл бұрын
These are fantastic! Any idea where to find a pattern for Gurkhas?
@distressedtailor2 жыл бұрын
Honestly I make my own patterns so I've never had to source them or buy. But, if you have or can get a pleated pants pattern, you can take the waistband, double it's height, and at each end add a curve into the thin belt extension. Hopefully that helps!
@thehandler_666 Жыл бұрын
Hello there! Really loved the video. Of late I myself have been looking forward to buy a gurkha trousers for myself but unluckily the tailors haven't heard of this style and they do not have any reference to go to for making one. Would it be possible for you to share some design pictures that I can take to my tailors?
@toobalkain2 жыл бұрын
I dunno, I'm still not entirely sold on pleats, flat front high rises tend to be a cleaner look on most people but pleats do look good on some guys, usually of taller, slimmer build, they don't seem to be for everyone, or maybe it's the variations, single, double, forward, reverse, loops or side adjusters, the positioning of the loops if they are there, the height of the rise, it's more complicated than getting a jacket that fits right for god's sake.
@renii48192 жыл бұрын
This entire time I thought the waist was bellow the belly... ah man.
@Fstop3137 ай бұрын
Can you turn oversized pants into pleated ghurkas?
@lachlanC502 жыл бұрын
I'm in love with this look, i want to help bring this back. Looking around , it is really Niche, to buy them is over $100 and their arent many patterns that i can find that seem close enough for someone as novice at sewing as me. Do you have a recomendation ( for patterns or pre-made ) to help with this kind of thing?
@distressedtailor2 жыл бұрын
In terms of patterns, it's hard for me to recommend since I made my own (and copied the waistband from a pair I had). You could do the same with any pleated pants pattern and make your own waistband if that's in your skillset. In terms of premade trousers I've not been terribly happy with the ones I've had, which is why I made my own. If you have $400 to burn Rubinacci is the og choice, but I wish I could recommend something less pretentious lol
@mantisbiker25372 жыл бұрын
What do you call that paper that you showed your pattern on at the beginning of the video? Oak Tag? Trying to find something similar in France.
@distressedtailor2 жыл бұрын
I just got some cardboard from a craft store, didn't really pay attention to specifically what it was honestly. Oak tag is thinner and lighter in colour, and more purpose made for patterns. Any large enough piece of cardboard or cardstock should do the trick, good luck!
@curtisanderson327 Жыл бұрын
This is amazing! Are you selling the pattern?
@distressedtailor Жыл бұрын
Not selling the pattern but I have a video in the works on drafting it from scratch with some improvements. Not sure when it'll be up though, videos take a lot of time for me.
@Fariha.x Жыл бұрын
Please make a video on how to cut this particular design. It would really be helpful if you can.
@distressedtailor Жыл бұрын
Definitely something I have planned for the future! Unfortunately these videos take a long time to make so I don't know when it'll be up, but it's in the works
@thespiritsdemise Жыл бұрын
Absolutely love the colour of that denim, where did you get it?
@distressedtailor Жыл бұрын
I got it from Blackbird Fabrics in Vancouver! They don't seem to have it at the moment but they have a great selection
@KRyann102 жыл бұрын
Perfect. Inspiring video. Could you make your pattern available online? I am wanting to to make a similar pant with either hemp or ramie (nettle) fabric that is strong but breathable for work in the field. Would you say denim is more challenging to work with than hemp? Thanks!
@distressedtailor2 жыл бұрын
Unfortunately I'm not too experienced with creating patterns digitally or releasing them online, sorry! Also denim can be challenging to work with because of its stiffness and thickness, my work with hemp and linen has been generally easier than denim, but I also haven't worked with any hemp of a similar weight to denim so it's hard to draw a direct comparison.
@pappywinky47499 ай бұрын
What kind of pattern did you use for these trousers?! They look awesome
@distressedtailor9 ай бұрын
It's a jeans pattern (trouser with a straight outseam) expanded to accommodate pleats. One day I'll make a video about how to draft that pattern but life is super hectic at the moment
@pappywinky47499 ай бұрын
@@distressedtailor I would love that, I'll keep an eye open for it whenever you decide to make it :) Thanks!
@SkyProtonFood2 жыл бұрын
Can you share w how to make a doble-buckle gurkha?
@rkgki2 жыл бұрын
What is that little hand cranked machine? So cool.
@distressedtailor2 жыл бұрын
It's a Singer model 20. Roughly 100 years old, it's pretty neat!
@garywheble4534 Жыл бұрын
Your Gurka trousers are realy jungle trousers OG 44 patern although they were in use before 44 44 is the year a different stile of webbing came into being and at the time the OG Olive Green had no designation .the west is of belted cross over stile this is to take into account the weight loss tht happens to long time in the jungle due to the lack of high nutrition food the trousers weast band is high due to the support and comfort it provides to the wearing of heavey webbed belt and pouches around the users waste
@distressedtailor Жыл бұрын
Always appreciate such a detailed comment! It's entirely possible that you're correct, and I'm no expert on the history of WWII era trousers, but Gurkha is very commonly used in the modern day to refer to this style of trouser. However, it wouldn't be the first time the fashion industry has misused a name foreign to them (if that is the case). Here's an example from the rake, not the most impartial website in the world but I feel it helps illustrate the way many of us understand what a Gurkha style pant is today therake.com/stories/a-history-of-the-gurkha-trousers/ That being said, I did look up jungle trousers, and unless it's a specific name for a pattern for sale (which sometimes have very specific/unique names to differentiate small changes in styles), then it might mean something different. I found historical reenactment "jungle trousers" from 1943 and one museum that had 1944 trousers (though I think jungle in that context was to describe the shade of green and not the trousers themselves) and both have 2 belts stacked on top of eachother in the same direction rather than 2 belts of opposing direction as in my trouser. Here's an example of a vintage pair of 1944 jungle shorts that were for sale www.militariazone.com/trousers-shorts/scarce-original-1944-dated-british-army-shorts-jungle-/itm28151 If you have a source for some of that info of yours I would love to look it over!
@sezman224 Жыл бұрын
Nice detailing,please how old are these machines?
@distressedtailor Жыл бұрын
The hand turned machine is a third edition Singer 20 which started manufacture in 1926, but I don't know when my exact machine was made, somewhere between 1926 and 1950 I think.
@samirbinasif904911 ай бұрын
Brother can you explain a little bit more and make a video of cutting gurkha trauser i am a little bit confuse after watching
@distressedtailor11 ай бұрын
I am working on one but I'm slow to upload because this is just a fun hobby and these videos are a lot of work. What are you confused by?
@tobywillis6758 Жыл бұрын
Did you buy the pattern for these or make your own? Share details or link please
@distressedtailor Жыл бұрын
I made the pattern myself. Hoping to make a video about drafting a pants pattern from scratch but I haven't had the time.
@matthewpaw41843 жыл бұрын
This is amazing! Would you consider making them to sell?
@distressedtailor3 жыл бұрын
Thanks! I definitely don't have the capacity for commissions or sales, and don't think I'll be able to handle that kind of production anytime soon.
@l.r.1717 ай бұрын
How wide is the waistband ?
@distressedtailor6 ай бұрын
About 2.5 inches
@l.r.1716 ай бұрын
@@distressedtailor Thank you !
@ksingh9522 жыл бұрын
question: can these trousers waist be altered?
@distressedtailor2 жыл бұрын
A seam can be created in the center of the back if it needs to be brought in. But generally the adjustability on the sides is enough.
@ksingh9522 жыл бұрын
@@distressedtailor Thats good, because I ordered one size up as per their recommendation; I guess it sit comfortably high waist. But it’s good to know that it can be altered if I need to size down if needed
@mr.learning99 ай бұрын
the texture of your fabric looks nice, the idea is wonderful , but just, it looks a little flabby around your thigh
@distressedtailor9 ай бұрын
I prefer "girthy" tyvm
@brandantaylor5880 Жыл бұрын
Would you be willing to sell your pattern?
@distressedtailor Жыл бұрын
More than anything it's not really in a sellable state, the pleats aren't marked and it's not prepared to be scaled to different sizes, and honestly I wouldn't even know how to sell it to begin with, and don't think I'm a skilled enough pattern drafter so it would require a lot of work and research to prepare it for sale. Really appreciate the interest though!
@robertbanks98252 жыл бұрын
YES I AGREED ON THE COMMENTS B 4 ME THE STYLE OF THESE PANTS ARE BEAUTIFUL THE WAIST BAND UP HIGH COVERING THE BELLY BUTTON LIKE A CUMBERLAND IS A PERFECT PANTS MATERIAL SUCK