Understanding the R5C's ISO Menu Settings - EOS R5C Tip 11

[@eyeidea]

Wow. IN DEPTH. Thank you. Didn't know how much I didn't know about ISO, even after 20+ years of videography. Sub'd.

[@Adi-ed5ly]

Man, I just have to say that Im loving your series about R5C. You've helped me a lot with my brand new camera. Amazing job! Thank you!

[@csound55]

Thanks for the informative video, ISO's on the R5C provide some interesting options. I've run some tests looking at combinations of different ISO modes and have observed (as expected) Base ISO set to automatic with either ISO 800 or 3200 provides the best dynamic range results. If Base ISO 800 is selected simultaneously with ISO 800 the blacks appear to get crushed a little and there is less detail in the shadows. However an interesting combination for low light situations is to select Base ISO 3200 simultaneously with ISO 800. In this mode dark areas have much less noise but the trade off is highlights clip at a lower level. So this mode seems to shift the cameras latitude to a lower range while keeping middle grey at the same exposure. Very useful for prioritising shadow detail in some low light shooting situations.

[@PointsInFocus]

Thanks for the info. I've been trying to cobble together a rigorous test on noise and dynamic range for the various combinations of base and set ISOs that doesn't involved spending $$$ on a calibrated transmissive step wedge. I have some ideas, but the testing is relatively painful and repetitive. Actually, I really want to understand how Canon is mapping out the dynamic range from the sensor in video mode. I suspect it's nowhere near as simple as people expect, or as it is in photo mode. Though with the transfer functions (gamma curves) involved, everything in video is so much more of a pain in the rear to parse than it is for still's with linear raw files.

[@csound55]

@@PointsInFocus Agree seems like a complex topic. Would be good if Canon could provide an ISO functionality white paper for the R5C.

[@danielbranam8503]

Yeah, there's a lot there with ISO settings. I try to stay close to the base ISO settings while shooting which seems to give me the cleanest video. There are times of course that I have to push the image more than I would like to get something I can work with in post. Keep the ISO tutorials coming. This is an under developed area of help one can find on KZbin. Cheers!

[@TheAgora123]

amazing all your video about the R5C.Thanks

[@JaroslavBengl]

Thanks a lot for the detailed explanation! ✨👍🏻

[@gregorylagrange]

While it took a little bit to get to the point that gave me the info I was looking for, it did deliver. Well done video overall.

[@sanjayfgupta2167]

Love your videos! Bravo.

[@beesherald]

im geting in troubles every time i want to copy the videos from the camera to my laptop, there is a few formats and resolutions, what kind of files can i import to my computer, directly from the camera and what i need to do to import raw videos without becaming a full time hacker? why is so complicted? i was specting just a copy - paste process, whats wrong with this canon guys? jesus... thankyou for your help! my english is bad i know, thankyou for your atention, i apologise in advance.

[@PointsInFocus]

Hi, in the future when asking for help it's vastly more useful to provide information like what OS you're using, and exactly how you're trying to do what you're having a problem with instead of complaining. This is doubly important in many cases because there's often many places where problems can occur and many ways to go about doing things that each have their own potential problems. If you're using a Windows laptop, the camera should show up in windows explorer when you plug in the USB-C cable. Make sure the cable is a USB-3.1 cable rated for at least 5Gbps transfers, and not a charging cable for a phone. When you plug the camera in, if you have the EOS utility installed, that may automatically start, if it does, it can interfere with the ability to access the file systems on the cards in the cameras. So close that if it starts. You'll find the CFExpress and SD cards listed separately under the camera in your Computer's drive list, and the files under there. Once you can see the files you can copy them off the card anyway that's you choose (right click menus, ctrl-c/ctrl-v, drag and drop whatever). If you're on a Mac, the OS is far less friendly in this case as the camera won't show up as a browsable file system. Instead you have to import the photos or videos from your camera though the preview.app (file -> import from your camera). All that said, the recommended, and in my experience the most bullet proof, way is to use an USB card reader to read the cards directly. They will show up as disk/storage devices with a standard file system (FAT32 or ExFAT depending on type an size), and copies to and from them behave the same as if you were copying between any two regular disks.

[@beesherald]

@@PointsInFocus Thank you very much, friend. I apologize for complaining; I'll be more objective next time. Let me tell you that I bought this camera 4 months ago, and the most recent thing I did was precisely to buy the CFexpress card reader. I bought the memory cards second-hand on eBay, but the reader is new. It keeps giving me the same error: the copying suddenly interrupts, it tells me there was an error with the file, and it asks me if I want to continue or skip. Finally, there are files that I can't copy no matter how hard I try; it keeps showing an error. I have Windows 10, and the cable I'm using with the card reader is the original one it came with, but it still shows an error. I bought two memories from different suppliers, and both show the same error, apparently with higher resolution files. I appreciate your response very much. Honestly, I just expected you to laugh a little at my frustration, haha! Anyway, I'll keep watching your videos and subscribed to your channel, which is the best I've seen so far. I consider you a professional, and I don't even dream of reaching the level of communication you have, but out of respect, I'll try. Again, thank you very much. I'm sure your channel will go far. You're awesome! By the way, do you think the port on my laptop could be affecting the speed and causing interruptions in copying larger files?

[@PointsInFocus]

At this point I think we need to start systematically eliminating things. Resolution and bit rate don't matter at least not when you're copying files like this. The computer doesn't care what's in the file, it's just moving bytes when you do a file copy. It could just as easily be, "I hate this stupid computer!" written over and over millions of times in a text file as a movie. That said, bigger files could be causing problems simply because something is failing intermittently somewhere in the chain has time to fail while the big files is copying but not with smaller ones. Like the reader or card could be overheating or something like that. That said, that doesn't explain some files just not working at all. With that said, you might try... First, do the uncopyable files play back on the camera in the media browser? Second, if you have a SD card and reader, try shooting a large test file on that and seeing if that works. Third, try downloading the files through the camera over USB. Though if you do this, you'll probably want to put the camera into photo mode; you should still be able to access all the files. I'd also check the Windows Event Viewer on your computer just after you have a problem. Check the System logs under the Windows Log section and look for errors for either the USB port, card reader, or the file system. Everything in the event log is time stamped, so you can just look at the time column for the time when the card stopped working. If the USB port, card reader or card are dropping out (as opposed to just a file system error), then something may get logged there that might point towards the problem. But that would point towards a hardware problem with the cards or reader. Finally, do you find that your cards get excessively hot in your reader when trying to transfer to the computer? I've found that at least my AngelBird card gets quite a bit hotter than my ProGrade card in my ProGrade reader. I've not seen a problem with this yet, but I'm not 100% convinced that it can't cause problems. Also, I'd suggest checking to see if your cards have any outstanding firmware updates available, and if so if they fix anything that might be related. I know AngelBird has had a couple of firmware updates for their cards around compatibility, performance, and power efficiency. I'm sure I'm forgetting something, but hopefully that covers the major points that should get this moving towards a solution.

[@KITT-qt6sx]

Great video and awesome info. Keep it up! Has anyone encountered more ISO noise after the new firmware update 1.0.5.1? Thx

[@paulkowol2561]

Hello, I have a small issue, I set the button number 10 to changing the Base Iso, and when I am in Clog3 I am only able to set the ISO to 800 (Base ) and 3200 Base is blinking Over the 800 Base but is not active still is 800 active. Do You have any idea ? Thanks

[@PointsInFocus]

Sorry, unfortunately I don't. Unfortunately, I couldn't reproduce a similar condition on my camera, so I'm not even all that sure where to start troubleshooting either.

[@peterlatoska118]

@@PointsInFocus can I send somewhere please a short footage with this issue ?

[@PizzlesTechTime]

I'm wondering what the hidden videos have hidden in them lol

[@PizzlesTechTime]

I think It's my KZbin.

[@PointsInFocus]

There are no audio transitions in this video, what time code are you seeing problems?

[@PizzlesTechTime]

​@@PointsInFocusYou may be right. I do apologize for some reason the audio is cutting out in between the transitions. I went back and listened to it I can't find it.