Universal Joints - Part 6: Proper U-Joint Installation

[@JeffInDFW]

Professor Kelly, thank you for not editing out your battle with the snap rings. These are the exact type of problem we face in the real world, and it was valuable to see your decision making process as you worked through the issue. I've worked on cars for 30 years, and am greatly enjoying your videos. I'm amazed at how many little details I did not know, and have been doing incorrectly.

[@WeberAuto]

Thank you very much! Have a great day!

[@rayman1611]

Mr Kelly, You Sir are awesomely me. Thank God our country still has people like you to teach our children (young adults) how to do things properly. Thank you from the bottom of my heart!

[@WeberAuto]

Thank you very much!

[@Bfocus23]

Man I gotta say I realy appreciate your wisdom and teaching skills so professional

[@tokaido531]

This video, and the others in this series, got me through a recent u joint fitting problem. As someone who thought that the right way to replace U joints was using a hammer and a vise, this was incredibly useful, and of course when I followed the correct procedure, everything went smoothly!

[@WeberAuto]

Excellent! I am glad you were able to get it resolved. Thanks for watching

[@brandblue8980]

Thank you. one of the most informative in-depth instructional videos ever. the video quality as well as the focus/perspective is top notch. again thank you.

[@WeberAuto]

Thank you very much!

[@hubgold487]

What a great series on the "lowly" u-joint! Mechanic for many years, now mostly retired. Learned a lot from these videos. They begin to expose the low level of knowledge in the US auto repair industry (need more and better trade schools). However, mechanics in the rust belt deal with less than surgically clean , nearly new parts. A good torch is their friend.

[@WeberAuto]

Thank you very much. I know what you mean.

[@andrewholecek5256]

Of all my years of replacing u-joints I've never had a u-joint come with different thickness snap rings. And many times I needed a thinner snap ring. You are also the first one that has removed a u-joint the right way. Nice video.

[@bobocaterpillar3697]

GREAT video .. but 45:38 i have found that after installing the caps, even if everything IS correct it still seems a little "stiff" i think what is happening is, the needle bearings are side loaded by pushing the needles ( the cap ) sideways onto the trunnion and that causes them to drag instead of roll ... i have found that if you put the yolk on the flat part of a vice ( on the back) and give it a quick _ NOT HARD_ hit on the back of the yolk, behind the bearing cap ( between the bearing cap and the shaft part ) shocks them into place and it "frees up" the needle bearings and it is loose as a goose. try it next time ... i think you'll be surprised ! 20yr cat equipment mechanic, ive seen a couple driveshafts ...

[@bbkmm1]

Thank you for your time. This is a perfect example why understanding the Mechanical Engineering portion of cars is important in auto repair. Mechanics get bad reputation for shoddy work because they don't have understanding like this.

[@WeberAuto]

+Qiong Jia Thank you! I totally agree.

[@rutzsmith]

Thanks. I appreciate the thoroughness of your lesson. I've watched a lot of videos. While many of them get to the point, it's nice to get the theory too. I'm sure it's going to be a big help over the next few hours!

[@hubgold487]

Attempted to press out an old scrap GM joint with the plastic retainers without using heat. I wire brushed it, then applied penetrating lube . Blew the end cap apart but did not budge. I think heat is necessary on old, hard plastic.

[@mark9ze]

Such an oustanding series!!! I wish my garage was as clean as his work space. Having just done the ujoints on my 2002 Seirra 1500 it can be like surgery, 1/8 a turn can make or break it. I did use some caliber grease In the ears but it probably was not needed or advised. The thing that loosened mine up after installing the new ones was a hit with a hammer at the end of the ears, it seems to settle them in so they spin freely, made a 50% difference. I also did not remove the driveshart from the truck so I guessed on the install orientation, but seemed to get it right as there is no vibration or clunk when shifting. One piece oem Spicer drivshaft and installed new Spicer ujoints, the label was still undamaged and easy to read. When in doubt call the Spicer customer service line with the part number and ask what was used originally, as the website information can be overload. And remember a new aluminium Dorman driveshaft is $800.00 for the truck the cheapest new I found was $240.00 for painted black steel tubing. A national tire shop chain claimed the driveshaft was unusable, but I filed a few burrs from one of the ears and it was as good as new.

[@logicVSpassion]

Best U-joint video online. This addresses the complex issues that one might encounter. Great work!

[@JeffInDFW]

I notice a lot of the comments below are from people who had problems with U joints being too tight and being grateful for Professor Kelly teaching us about snap ring thickness etc. I wanted to share my experience that might help. I have a truck with over 250,000 miles that I often over work which causes me to need to replace U Joints every 60,000 miles or so. Even using a ball joint press and being careful, the ears get bent inward ever so slightly each time I press out and press in a new joint. My U Joints are now so tight even with the thinnest snap rings Spicer makes I am forced to either buy a new driveshaft or have a transmission shop cut off the ears and weld new ones. I tried a driveshaft from the salvage yard and of course....its ears were bent in worse than my original one! It was from a low mileage truck but you could see hammer marks where someone had hammered out the U Joint at some point. So, I just wanted to get my experience out there that even with a ball joint press I still slowly bent in my ears. I need to locate a tool that prevents this that is less expensive than Professor Kelly's wonderful press. My best to all.

[@WeberAuto]

Great example. Thank you

[@lv2tri1]

I gained valuable knowledge from this video, I don't believe I would have given the needed attention with out it. I will look for more help from WSU, thankyou.

[@WeberAuto]

Thank you

[@Rotaris1]

Magnificent information, love the detail. My OCD is really in high gear now!

[@WeberAuto]

Lol. Thank you very much

[@linoveiga]

Thanks for the class, after watching your video I had the idea to remove the snap rings from both sides and sand them down, then are not flat and I’m hoping a few thousands I can get this joint to move freelly, so far it’s looking better, one was .00515 and now I’m down to .00500, the other .00490, I do t see an issue with this as long as I’m doing it by hand and not heating it up

[@Digs-sq4xt]

1 hour video to fit a uni joint… bravo

[@pjames4413]

With that "sprung" snap ring, i would try to reverse the snap ring pliers, and expand that snap ring and then install it... ytou know if it snaps into the groove like it should, I would have no worries.. of course I have no data to support that, but it seems sensible. Also I have a set of MOOG 232's for a corvette, and they just came with black snap rings... I will ensure I get a good fit! Thanks for the class!

[@twwtb]

If you include some light machining in your program, or if you have a machine shop program on campus, you could make a line bore check tool on a lathe.

[@davidwoodiwiss9180]

Re. Tight snap rings / cir-clips: I had the same problem. The old bearing cups were very hard to press out of the steel yoke and needed a lot of force. After fitting the new unit, I could only get the snap ring to fit in one side of the yokes. The other side was now where near close to being able to fit into the groove. I even tried an under standard thickness snap ring but that would not fit. I therefore removed the new unit and it measured up. It was perfectly to specs. The only explanation therefore was that, under the force of extracting the old unit, the yoke ears had deformed inwards. This was confirmed by taking measurements of the yoke. The answer was to use an extractor in reverse to expand the ears back out to their correct spread.

[@VideoNOLA]

32:00 Seems like the final press-in to make room for the spring clips could be made easier and more uniform if -- instead of a socket-and-bar arrangement -- someone would make a pair of round shims/washers, of very specific thickness (like a U.S. quarter or multiple thereof), that could be applied to the face of each cup. This way, once they are pressed flush (both at the same time), you'd know each cup was recessed X mm inside the outer face of the ears. Have you ever tried such an approach?

[@WeberAuto]

I have not, thanks for the feedback. I will have to try that. Have a good day!

[@VideoNOLA]

Subscribing! The world needs more great educators like you, sir.

[@Kotaztrafee]

I would consider running the snap rings on a whet or diamond stone a few times to take the thickness down. Could take caliper readings every so many strokes. About to change my 2003 Silverado joints in two days.

[@bernhardlist9359]

1/100 mm is smaller increment than 1/1000 inch (which is 2.5/100mm) so you may prefer metric after all.

[@jandels4378]

Only U-joint installation video we need

[@waiting4aliens]

Thank you very much for your time and efforts.

[@NissanAltima2005]

It could be the washer of the steel youk flipped out while being removed in and out, I think there should be some sort of direction on it. One clip shows grove on it for the grease to balance its self across the nedle bearing and move from underneath. And this will add thickness if it flipped.

[@ikeimage]

at 53:53 i see, from left to right a short cup a tall cup then short then tall. ? "metal only" maybe their end cap thickness is different ?

[@jeffmurphy9987]

I agree that sealed Ujoints are far superior for daily drivers. For off-road Jeep applications would you still recommend a sealed joint? I stay up on maintenance and would keep them greased when needed. Thanks

[@davidarmenphoto]

Amazing work professor! I am a car enthusiast and this series has been gold for me in my pursuit of vehicular mechanics. I just have a really quick question, towards the last quarter of the video, you mention you prefer thousandths of an inch to hundredths of a millimeter because it is a finer increment. This confused me a little as i have always thought that 0.01mm is a little under 0.0004in, so it is four ten-thousands of an inch, quite a bit less than one one-thousandths of an inch, making 0.01mm a finer increment than 0.001in. What am I missing here professor? Thank you again for your hard work! Many of us appreciate you taking the time to upload such informative videos found nowhere else!

[@WeberAuto]

Thank you, yes, I was wrong about that. Thanks for watching

[@fdegeorge2000]

Thanks Professor, what you need is a good set of plug gages. Keep up the good work we love th e videos thanks again.

[@WeberAuto]

Good suggestion, thank you

[@pjames4413]

Also, my new Moog joints were made in sunny Mexico.

[@GavinM161]

But why not use the u-joint removal tool when putting in the new u-joint? That would avoid any risk of bending an ear (even with the steel to spread the load)?

[@micdiva]

All these techniques are great if you're from the south. I'd like to see you use this press up here in new England and when the truck comes into the shop with 100k plus miles and it's all rust. This is great in a perfect world and on a brand new vehicle but unfortunately this isnt reality

[@JeffInDFW]

Yeah, I lived in Boston and Philly and it is a nightmare working on cars from there. I'm in Dallas now. Original owner of a 2007 Xterra which has spent all 245,000 miles in Texas. All bolts, axles, everything still looks like it did the day I bought it. I changed a front wheel bearing last year and every bolt came off looking new. Hang in there Michael, you got my respect!

[@bpowda84]

Really wish I had seen this video before I tackled my u-joints. I did them with a ball joint press but did not have the other tools. Thats the only way I have ever seen them done. I had the same situation where the snap rings were too thick and wouldn't go in. I sanded them down (hold your fire) to get them to fit. The joints felt good and free but I have a bad vibration from 40 mph and up. Worried I may have bent the ears on my yoke.

[@dangerdavefreestyle]

There is one other factor.....the distance of those ears on the yokes may vary due to manufacturing. If they are just .005" too narrow, that is a very small number but enough to give a giant headache getting the snap rings in and setting axial play.

[@gardenoftruth8265]

Who puts a thumbs-down on this video? Wow they must be dumb and want to stay that way LOL after watching these videos the main thing I learned is it the universal joint ain't broke don't try to fix it LOL just leave it alone because you'll never get it back as good as it was from the factory. So unless your universal joint is bad do not touch it

[@spiritme6047]

Thanks alot, i just stumbled on your video series, i have watched two already. i have a peculiar problem: I use a diesel electric generator off grid. I have massive misalignment problem between the prime mover and alternator, both didnt come from same OEM, it's a DIY assembly. I just installed a twin U-joint coupling and i still get some vibrations. There is no shaft between the two U-joints, they were welded together. Do you think lack of a shaft is the reason for the vibration?

[@545torino]

Are the Ford replacement u joints also made by spicer? just wondering.

[@WeberAuto]

Hi, yes. Most Ford driveshafts and u-joints are made by Spicer

[@boghybb]

Nice episode. I have one question: I bought a new driveshaft from Dorman. The rear side has a runout of 0.4mm which is huge in my opinion. The runout is even for the entire lenght of the tube so I was thinking to compensate/ correct this by moving the u-joint using snap rings with different thickness. For example, if the current thickness is 1.50 for each one, I would use 1.55 in one side and 1.45 in the other, so the load will remains the same. Is my judgement wrong? Thank you in advance for your answer.

[@michael_fassbender]

will a little 8in arbor press from harbor freight work for pressing in new u joints?

[@michaelgalvin1024]

Great work, thankyou.

[@WeberAuto]

Thank you!

[@danabbene6507]

Great video, just long but very informative! One question though. If a snap ring is too thick even on the thinnest ones, can't you slide them over a piece of sandpaper to make them slightly thinner? If you make them exactly the same thickness as the ones you took off, they should fit.

[@WeberAuto]

They should fit is the snap ring grooves are perfectly clean and undamaged. Thanks for watching

[@Sncedayone]

Thanks brother

[@geojor]

"born to teach", thank you...

[@WeberAuto]

+pei bossman Thank you!

[@Bighead-he8zb]

Radio voice, camera man, presentation. I have a Master's in Chemistry and had many professors. You are among the best.

[@nicholasdufresne504]

I installed three different ones in my yoke and I still have some play of the joint in the caps, but snap rings are in. When I filled with grease the movement went away but do I need thicker inner clips?

[@tracycolorado]

thank you , i just can not comprehend why they do not put grease zerks on anything anymore

[@WeberAuto]

+tracycolorado Thank you for watching!

[@Rotaris1]

GM (spicer are preloaded with grease inside trunion) they get greased all the time through the centre

[@davidvanniekerk3813]

Thanx Prof.

[@545torino]

Thanks, great video to👍

[@WeberAuto]

Thank you!

[@chdebolt]

Where can I find the Spicer part numbers for the optional u joint snap rings?By the way I am working with 1350 series joints.

[@WeberAuto]

The Spicer small parts catalog. See www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0ahUKEwjRksqGkbPSAhVkqlQKHVfqCHUQFggaMAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fmedia.spicerparts.com%2Fcfs%2Ffiles%2Fmedia%2FkX23a5sT5yt3LYTdn%2Fj300-p9.pdf%3Fstore%3Doriginal&usg=AFQjCNEugiout_OEUvjXTL2ZweBDDKy2Zg&sig2=L0CUJx30x53CTDhNvxN_6w&bvm=bv.148073327,d.cGw

[@chdebolt]

Thank you

[@johnnydavis5032]

Where can I buy u joints for a Mazda Cx92008

[@dangerdavefreestyle]

I have downloaded a pdf of this exact catalog and spicer will not sell them to me. They also said they are only sold in packs of 25. And, that I have to consult a "distributor" and upon doing so the distributor told me to send them an email outlining what i need, to which i never got a reply! These little snap rings are scarce and extremely difficult to deal with. The market is not hell bent on making them widely available. They should be sold and stocked at EVERY auto parts store in the world that sells universal joints.

[@mahmoudabdelsalam1432]

so good lecture .. but plesae ... kindly can you install the C.C option in your vedeos for people who not good speak in english ??? then the vedeo text can be written ... thank you agian and good jop

[@chdebolt]

What did you end up finding with the tight u joint in the slip yoke? Why was it tight even with the thinnest snap rings? I have this exact same issue.

[@sonoma314]

maybe the thrust washers were out of spec on the tight one.

[@WeberAuto]

That is a possibility, thanks for your feedback!

[@adhdr1]

Thank You for your efforts.and I need subtitle for this Videos I need for parts 3.4.5.6 and Thank you Again

[@WeberAuto]

+Ahmed Thank you, I will try to get that done.

[@adhdr1]

Thanks alot for helping me

[@adhdr1]

And there another Videos I Watched for you which talked about (Chevrolet Biscayne positraction Differential Overhaul) some of it have English subtitle and anthor not particulary part 4

[@TheHidar72]

@@WeberAuto i watch your channel to learn american english .tank you sir

[@WeberAuto]

@@TheHidar72 Thank you

[@dangerdavefreestyle]

there is so much variation in snap ring thicknesses, they should really supply more in increments of .001". And, the fact that an aftermarket ujoint comes with only one thickness which can be way out of wack is deplorable.

[@bnezzel]

I think 1/100 of a millimeter is less than half of a thousand, .00039. More accurate don’t you think?

[@steveg8337]

I'd like too see you do all that on a rusted up 100 k plus vehicle.

[@WeberAuto]

I have done that. It just takes a lot longer to clean everything.

[@patmsb1]

I just had my u joint on my 2005 Toyota Tacoma TRD and my mechanic just used a hammer to remove and install the new part. I was shocked he did it this way. No balancing at all! I could've got a weekend warrior mechanic for $60 to do the same job. Not impressed!

[@WeberAuto]

Typical! Thanks for the feedback.

[@erik_dk842]

Who else came here from South Main Auto or Watch Wes Work, who does the installation with hammers and by feal, not measuring anything?

[@SuperStar-nz5xy]

avoca son

[@andy16666]

A hundredth of a millimetre is about 4 ten thousandths, so finer than a thousandth.

[@ryder4721]

Maybe the ears were out of spec from the manufacturer

[@WeberAuto]

That is a possibility. Thanks for your feedback

[@ryder4721]

always trying to find the best way to change ujoints,thank you for devoting your time on these lessons

[@WeberAuto]

Thank you!

[@ryder4721]

no problem thank you

[@RalphSampson...]

The only criticism I have is I don't see the need for the steel plate you used between the press plunger and the yoke. The plate is just another item to try and manage without a third hand. The plunger is the same size as the contact surface of the yoke ears. Adding the steel plate has no advantage. You are not distributing the load, as you say. You are pressing directly on the same amount of surface area of the yoke either way.

[@phillhuddleston9445]

Maybe common sense but make sure you have the snap rings all the way seated or your driveshaft will eventually come off, don't ask me how I know this, I was young and not as knowledgeable at one time :(

[@chadd587]

A shame Spicer has moved to outsourced manufacturing of their U Joints. Spicer sold Neapco manufactured u joints as their own in heavy duty applications. Neapco has decided they will keep manufacturing stateside. Well see how long that lasts.

[@grumpysgarage4790]

Wow, been doing many things incorrectly for all these years 🤔

[@WeberAuto]

Thank you! I was too!

[@rosaurojavier5057]

G O D KIDKH Javier G O D KIDKH

[@MK-ng5fp]

thiner snap rings, sand paper or surface grinder lol

[@rosaurojavier5057]

GOD KIDKH verzosa GOD KIDKH

[@rosaurojavier5057]

G O D KIDKH de jesus GOD KIDKH

[@janvanruth3485]

a thousands of an inch is a finer increment than a hundredth of a millimeter i listened twice to be sure that is what was said 0.01 mm is about 0.0004 inch, 0.001 inch is about 0.025 mm so a thousands of an inch increment is about 2.5 times coarser n than a hundredth of a mm......

[@WeberAuto]

You are absolutely correct, I got that backwards. good catch! Thank you.

[@grasshopperz23]

Good thing you are not paid flat rate!

[@WeberAuto]

+grasshopperz23 You are correct, if I were on flat rate, I would be tempted just caveman it with a hammer and chisel rather than do it correctly. Flat rate promotes sloppy, poor quality work. It is my job to show my students how to do things the correct way. That way, when they are on flat rate, they will know what should not be short cut. Thanks for your feedback!