Upgrade Your Fluorescent Lights To Wafer LEDs

[@MediumRareSteve]

All I’ve got to request is that you never change your style of teaching. It’s just absolutely amazing and I am forever thankful to you for it. 🙏🏼

[@DianneCarrington]

Joel, I learned so much from this video. Your pacing and explanations mean I don’t have to continually rewind to catch what was said or piece together the sequence. Keep up the good work

[@nr1483]

Love it, you're like the Bob Ross of electricians on YT

[@spiralnapkin]

Thank you! I just installed mine after taking out my ancient flourescent tubes! It looks SO much better.

[@anthonydean1919]

You have given me the confidence to add these lights to my living room that I have been putting off for two years! Thank you.

[@stevelitchfield8728]

Not having any insulation in the ceiling sure makes it easier!

[@number6396]

I absolutely love your videos. You provide every detail and the commentary you provide while you are working is so helpful. I just wish you had more videos. I can't find the topic I need which is tracing wires in walls (from switch to light/outlet).

[@IGniTuv]

Have a ceiling light full of water from a leaky roof in my apartment so wanted to check a video or two before I started messing with anything; ended up on this video after the previous video ended, it has no bearing on anything I am doing, but I watched it in its entirety lol. You are a great presenter.

[@jayshreepatel1578]

I would give contracts to him for my business for sure. He is very neat and knowledgeable guy.

[@michael-499]

Very professional and informative. Thank you for sharing.

[@mikemcminn6866]

Love your presentation style and demonstration method... Very thorough... I just found your Channel and Subscribed!

[@SHAKA-NEU-LU]

I know I’m watching an old vid but I like watching the non Union Electricians cuz they do a lot of residential which in Vegas Union Wireman aren’t privy to anymore. Residential is the best way for an apprentice to learn circuitry and wiring. Good channel man

[@caroljones1595]

So helpful! Hits the facts, and hints. Joel gets right to it! Love that, most diy is full of dumb chatter.

[@ChaseRiley-h6f]

wow! this video was exactly what I was looking for! All my other searches showed how to replace fluoro tubes with LED tubes, gross. Thank you for saving me time, money and teaching me a new skill!

[@wellsnapyeah]

You are a pro and a bro at the same time. Great job.

[@user-qc3gn2yk2j]

Great video. Appreciate the detailed explanation, very helpful

[@That1Stormtrooper]

Hands down one of the best videos out here. The extra knowledge is so much appreciated. I thought I was watching an episode of This Old House. Great job my dude. Got a subscribe from me.

[@GershonMandel-up8pl]

I learned so much from this video you explained it very well thank you

[@r3tr0nic]

I've bought and tried one of those big hole cutters, didn't care for it. I then had a lightbulb moment some years later... I cut the clamshell plastic packaging the PPE respirator came in, drilled a hole and just used a regular hole saw. The plastic is thin enough it allows flex so I can plunge the hole saw in as I am drilling. A pie lid or cake pan top lid would work even better. Using the hole saw on ultra slow speed (initial cut of surface DOES bite/grab sometimes!), this has worked an absolute treat, and near ZERO dust. The regular hole saw also prevents potential kickback or sudden drill yanks, from that special device, when you encounter a framing member I don't use my Spyder TCT saws neither, just an ultra cheap hole saw works wonders. The hole is super clean. This also works wonders for those old construction roundie boxes. Hole is clean and snug fit. Only wish I had this eureka moment years ago!

[@jayshreepatel1578]

He is funny and smart. Very easy to understand.

[@charleschi843]

57:35. This is a common problem when the wires are cut. Some guys leave them looped and dangling. They cut them right before they install the light.

[@charleschi843]

I have a dream: In 30 years these lights will have wireless power feeding them. Just install them with zero cable. Find the right frequency and badda bing, badda boom. Mark my words.

[@jameshunt5316]

Your dream is a bad idea and incredibly inefficient.

[@charleschi843]

@@jameshunt5316 How is it a bad idea to have wireless lights?

[@24bics]

​@@jameshunt5316Wait until he finds out how much a Wardenclyffe Tower costs and let's not talk about the permits. 😂

[@jameshunt5316]

@@charleschi843destabilizing the grid even further. Lack of control. Weather changes affecting light output. Inability to meter (so the government will never allow it) Requirement of certain humidity levels for stability. If we’re talking traditional wireless charging then it puts out as much power as it can and only absorbs ~40% of the power that has been released into the air. That means you’ve wasted 60% of the energy you have created from wind, solar, coal, nuclear versus if you just ram everything wired…. When it comes to Tesla Towers.. Like I said about the humidity is very key. It’s not good to pull ions out of thin air. Have to be every so many feet which means we’ll need basically lightning shooting telephone polls everywhere, on every road. I’m all for technology but wires make it so many times more efficient…. We can make everything wireless but I personally think my bills are too high already!

[@jameshunt5316]

@@charleschi843 as for regular Bluetooth or wireless charging it’s around 40% efficient. That means 60% of the power being used is wasted. Wires are 60% more efficient. Safety Control Weather affecting light dimming and equipment inside. When it comes to a wardencliffe tower the humidity has to be perfect As well as they have to be so many feet. Essentially we would have to replace telephone polls with lightning shooting telephone polls every so many feet. It’s also not good to pull ions out of the air especially in areas near vegetation and life.

[@FrancisRoyCA]

You are a real pleasure to listen to. Guess Game of Thrones is going to have to wait while I review your whole library now.

[@billm6171]

Southwest Missouri here, really enjoyed your video and the running commentary LOL

[@rcppop3090]

Thank you. Renovating my kitchen right now and this was extremely informative and helpful.

[@joemomma7]

The family has been doing lights since the candle. I'm 4th generation but after twisting solids together I have never had any luck withe twisting stranded on it afterwards. Some guys that work for me they live by that and would take it to the grave but I seen them do what you did and gad to back off nut to redo. Now they're all about not doing it that way at all anymore as I told them just put stranded wire just above your twisted solids and wire nut it. If they're is multiple stranded along with twisted solids then twist stranded wires together (note don't twist individual stranded wires independently just one time with all them). Helps if you want to do it just once

[@kellyhartnett5095]

This was amazing!! I found this video so I could change the lighting in my Flip home by myself, and I must say you go above and beyond!! Not to mention your sense of humor add a nice touch. Are you married ?? Haha. Thanks again

[@ElectricProAcademy]

Haha very happily married! Glad it helped!

[@ginozanga2129]

@@ElectricProAcademy do you have a video showing the wiring of two lights with two 3- way light switches like in a hallway situation

[@kevinmckenna9601]

This was the best instructional video I have EVER seen!!!!!

[@terrygful]

Love it! This is if Suga Sean O’ Mally became an electrician 😂

[@ElectricProAcademy]

😂

[@frankrodriguez8520]

Thanks for this video 🙏🏻👍🏻

[@JohnPooley-te9ei]

Nice1..Electric & thank u

[@towtruckaj]

You could also cut out the ballast and run led bulbs.

[@LTCJWE]

Fantastic video & very helpful. Thank you so much!

[@mattmobley9671]

great video, really appreciate the detail and presentation of alternatives.

[@vab007vab]

Amazing explanation

[@PeterJames143]

Just curious why didn't you just use 14-2 instead of 12-2 for wires for those lights. You said 12-2 is required by code? Thanks for great videos.

[@shawn2104]

Well the existing circuit is probably fused at 20 amps so 14 gauge would be too small and be against code.

[@tws061105]

This is SO helpful! Thank you!!

[@fran90XD]

Thanks for the video sir, great at explaining everything 🔥😍

[@DesignbuildsolutionsLLC]

I’m curious about the lights linked in the description. It doesn’t look like that product is IC rated. In fact the installation manual says to be careful about installing where insulation inhibits cooling.

[@michaeljavert4635]

Someone put that light up improperly. Should have a clamp on the hole where the wire is to prevent strain and fraying. I hate LED lighting. They flicker really fast. Unnoticed by most people but they induce migraine headaches. The lighting itself is just weird too. Glad to see you're using 12 gauge. I am bullish about eliminating 14 gauge in house wiring. I also wish that Romex was the standard and monopolized the wire type. I wish also they'd insulate the ground with green insulation. This would help eliminate a lot of shorts, especially in tight boxes. I hate plastic and nylon boxes too. I love Klein no contact detectors. I also love folding rulers. The one my Great grandpa had broke, because it was so old. When you can get behind a wall, that's even better for metal boxes. My electrician was not happy with me when I saw plastic boxes and told him "NO" and insisted they're metal. I like the good stuff. I ever get my way I'd outlaw those plastic and nylon boxes per NEC. It just cheapens everything and even though unseen, just isn't as nice as a metal box. That would be another use for the Wago wire nuts too. No twisting nor stress on the wires, no flexing, that weakens copper, and it is good for stranded to solid or 12 and 14. It also accommodates more than just 12 or 14 gauge. I do still use electric tape to keep the wires from pushing the levers open again, which I have seen happen. Also no need to redo it because it's likely that it will not wiggle loose on tug test. I'd also like to see all receptacles, switches, combination, etc to have the same connections that the good GFCI receptacles have so there is no need to make a J Hook or worry about the conductor slipping out as the screw is tightened, which I have had happen, and yes, going in the proper direction. So frustrating.

[@WilliamBurkard]

i like to leave a little twist tail on my electrical tape for easy removal handle.

[@trebbleshooter]

The friendly twist. Use it every time

[@jasonfuessel2961]

Do you have a preference on wafer light brands? I see all the local electrical stores carry Esl and Cooper lighting. Then you have the big box stores carrying Halo, juno, commercial electric etc.......

[@mpolinski]

thank you so much for sharing!

[@number1pappy]

May I recommend using some spray oil based primer on the raw edges of the sheetrock to prevent sheetrock dust from becoming an issue down the road. Ask me how I know? Lol! Now, granted, some of yall will be too "fearful" of using an actual spray can, so for yall, may I recommend some "really safe" water-based laytex ,brush on primer. Lol! Although I may point out that water-based primer won't work as well as oil based, you know ......its "safer" lol!!

[@jasonrawls6959]

You still use cans for new construction ? If not it would suck to have to come back and cut drywall later on especially if there's a bunch of lights

[@turtleturtle4909]

What is the CRI rating for these lights?

[@eltonnoway7864]

Excellent point! The CRI rating (color rendering index) identifies the accuracy of its ability to illuminating true colors. Unlike fluorescent lighting which can create an unnatural look a LED with a high CRI rating renders beautiful, vibrant tones across the entire spectrum. Ideally lights with a CRI rating of 90 or higher means the light output will do a beautiful job at presenting the true colors of your food, clothing, art work etc. If the CRI number isn't listed in the advertisement or on the box that's typically an indication of a low / inferior score and you should keep looking. Per the link provided in his description the CRI of the Juno LED lights he installed (per the Amazon listing) is 90 CRI... which is excellent.

[@johnkulpowich5260]

Travel time. Clean up. Supply house. Truck insurance. Liability insurance. SS I. Insurance. Truck maintenance Tools. So how much did we make. Plus workmen comp

[@bobrub]

Hey Joel, This is the 2nd time you have uploaded this same video, (took the original upload down). What was wrong with the original version? Shouldn't we know what you did wrong in the first version so we can unlearn that feature?

[@norcoauctions]

are you paul rudd's bearded little brother? Thanks for sharing

[@stanleykania7184]

Good job

[@mikebald]

With trying to junction stranded and solid wire, what is your opinion on the Wago connectors for an install such as this?

[@diytacoma5758]

Could u not use a stud finder

[@ranger178]

are those wafer lights all using the same connectors and power supplies? if you need to replace one in the future, would it have to be same brand?

[@tomsuica8731]

What's the white stuff in the bulb? phosphor A: The white powder that you see inside a fluorescent light bulb is called phosphor. The phosphor used in a fluorescent light bulb is what determines both the color temperature and the color rendering index. All this according to googles.

[@mad_incognito]

Speaking of LED retrofits. I have several in my kitchen but they LEDs do not stay fit as they either do not sit flush against the ceiling or they slowly slide down. Any idea on how to make them stay flush?

[@jasonfuessel2961]

Are the Halo and Juno at Lowes and Home Depo a good quality? I've heard a few electrician say their spring wear out on the wafer lights.

[@ElectricProAcademy]

They're of a decent quality. When installing 20+ on a jobsite I'd always bring at least 1 spare for breakage.

[@Gi_Lovely]

This is exactly what I need to do in my home. The only thing is that the inside of the wall is closed up.

[@ElectricProAcademy]

Glad it helps! If you're looking to minimize drywall repair, we recommend a ~4" hole saw at the top of the wall and just above the switch location to facilitate fishing the wire down. Then just keep the plugs and all you'll need for repair is a little mud.

[@joejoe6949]

What the box fill on those lights ?

[@SubbuSrinivasa]

The lumens on the led wafers cannot match the FL tube. It's better to rewire it without the ballast and use led tubes that works without a ballast. Not need to fish wires and drill holes.

[@ranger178]

you should probably mention that if using old wire some is rated for lower temperature and are not good in hot light fixtures

[@eltonnoway7864]

What you're saying may be true, however LED puck lights barely even get warm, let alone hot. LED lights will never run as hot as an old incandescent fixture.

[@dp0813]

Couple of questions: 1) did you test for asbestos? Looks like an older house 2) how did you know there were no plumbing pipes or electrical wiring on the other side of the joists before you drilled through them?

[@jasonblaha6891]

1. He is not a pussy, we ain't scared. 2) you gotta feel the drill as soon as it drills back off

[@arturotorres6437]

Can these be used in a Soffit application?

[@BushyTop08]

Do you ever use Wagos?

[@kevinlucas8437]

That roto zip is way to noisy/ messy !!! Drill with hole cutter is my choice

[@alyssaisaackson6797]

Why just not use a hole saw ?

[@joeweatlu5169]

New subscriber here. I just discovered your channel recently and thoroughly appreciate your videos. I recently installed similar LED's in my kitchen. The lights I used were very much like the ones you used, except they had the push-in connectors. What's your opinion on those connectors?

[@joeweatlu5169]

@@ElectricProAcademy Thanks!

[@humeraismail6513]

No!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[@joejoe6949]

Who ever connected those old ballast lights did not put quick connect by code.

[@jasonlee8667]

Is it not possible to go over framing?

[@Werdna12345]

9:03 as an EE, that’s hilarious 🤣

[@massy3920]

Hi Joel, This is the second video I see you use a folding ruler. What is the folding ruler you are using make/model? Thanks.

[@mmarte1622]

Klein Tools 910-6 Folding Ruler...

[@stephentatar6746]

What are the advantages to using the recessed can LED lights I've seen you install compared to these wafer lights?

[@Russianmafia10]

Are those boxes supposed to be secured to a stud? Or is it fine to sit on the back side of the drywall?

[@Russianmafia10]

@@ElectricProAcademy well I mean the box isn't really mounted, it's just loosely sitting on top of the drywall. Just wondering if that's okay. Since that's likely what I'm going to do. Because I know those can be secured to the framing

[@Itsthatoneguy371]

@@Russianmafia10 probably not a safe situation, I would make sure it is secure, But I am no expert

[@number6396]

They are meant to be "placed" on the sheetrock. Part of the beauty of these lights is all connections/work can be done from the room. No attic crawling or struggling to secure them when on a ladder in the room.

[@paulrodney5757]

if you use the method he finished with cover or remove your smoke detector

[@DavidNelson42]

1:04:12 is that $150-200 per light including the actual light fixtures or just the wiring, etc?

[@ElectricProAcademy]

That includes the actual fixtures as well.

[@hbuckner007]

Can you just run the wire over the rafter in the attac?

[@jovetj]

I wouldn't. If you ever want to put something down on top of those rafters, you're SOL.

[@miscbits6399]

why not use Wago connectors instead of wire nuts? You KNOW they're secure and have far less risk of flying strands - and they're reusable if you use the lever ones (pushwires are reusable but it's not recommended for those)

[@ElectricProAcademy]

Besides wall plate screws that may be the hottest debate item. Thanks for engaging!

[@miscbits6399]

@@ElectricProAcademy wire nuts aren't legal in most of the world and they're a single-use item which need the tail cut back each time they're reterminated. They strike me as requiring twice or more the time of wagos and as you pointed out, with stranded wires they have significant drawbacks. Also, pushfit wagos take less space in the box (you need lever ones for stranded but the 240 series are small too) The high chance of improper jointing with wire nuts for inexperienced users is another drawback. As a safety issue it's probably worth pushing people to wagos on that basis alone (particularly as those inexperienced users are the ones likely to try and reuse a wire nut without being aware of the danger that poses)

[@mattmobley9671]

@@miscbits6399 wagos are awesome I love them for remodeling especially when I'm moving circuits. When I finish a 20A 12awg connection, I don't trust wagos. Maybe in another 10 years.

[@miscbits6399]

@@mattmobley9671 32A wagos (up to 4mm^2) have been tested to destruction by several KZbinrs. Even the Chinese knockoffs are good for at least 100A without internal damage They're extensively used in Europe and have proven more reliable/safer than screw blocks (the problem with screw fixing is that the clamping pressure and screwing action always damages and work-hardens the conductor, weakening it and normally requiring the tail is cut back for each retermination - which frequently isn't done, becoming a point of failure over time

[@mattmobley9671]

@@miscbits6399 I understand all and agree I'm just not totally confident in WAGOs for every application. In my opinion a WAGO connection and a backstab connection are eerily similar, with similar surface area being contacted in the connection, and similar arguments today for WAGO as there were in the early 90s for saving labor to backstab outlets and switches. FWIW we recently replaced several early 1990 almond outlets and switches, all backstabbed. Most working fine except the outlets exposed to humidity or used to deliver power continuously. Those were worn or not working. In favor of WAGOs, when it comes to connecting a single strand 15A conductor to multi-strand wiring in a light fixture, I prefer WAGOs. Its a superior way to connect multistrand copper.

[@Seanamus]

Are you Daniel Tosh in disguise?🤔

[@joemomma7]

I'm wore out from watching you create them holes. I've tried those ways before because I'm one to try it out because it could be better and easier especially the situation comes into play alot. Im still old school with tapping out plaster with the corner of my screwdriver working my way backwards do not bust up more of the plaster than what's needed and to save my multi-tool blades. But with them holes all you need is a hole saw and a drill. I remember with extra long bladesthe ones longer than the ones you were using. Remember to put tennis balls on it so it doesn't go through the sheetrock. All in all we're just measuring dicks here. All together still a good video I ain't hating on you Edit: I finally reread and I just corrected Google microphone mistakes. Damned Google mic

[@MarioHernandez-hb8eh]

WOW!!!!! CAN UOU GUIDE ME, HOW TO SETUP A 5000AMP 277V/480V MAIN underground main panel

[@ElectricProAcademy]

We'd need to have a pretty thorough talk about that one! electric-pro-academy.square.site/

[@chrisf9607]

Every time I remove an old Fixture there is a box

[@Pepe-dq2ib]

I cant stand the residue from electric tape. I have gone my way to get rid of all of it and replaced with 3m fiberglass clothe tape.

[@larrydrake6838]

Use scotch 33 instead of cheap tape. No residue with 33.

[@Pepe-dq2ib]

@@larrydrake6838 that's what I used and it still leaves residue and sometimes it shrinks and pulls itself off the receptacle a bit. Glass tape doesn't do that.

[@number1pappy]

@27:07 ish....why didn't you just run the wire over ceiling joist instead of drilling through it? By drilling a hole in the ceiling joist, you have effectively weakened the ceiling joist considerably! Especially considering you can almost reach the span of the holes with your arms! Lol! It was unnecessary.

[@number6396]

good catch. would love to know that too. thanks for being observant.

[@number1pappy]

​@number 6 yeah, your comment made me rewatch this video and led me to a question.....is it really necessary to run 12 guage wire to power low wattage led ceiling lights? Does one need 20 amps for led low watt lights? I checked and code for my area is 14 guage..

[@tobysauer225]

He mentioned in the video that the attic was being used for storage and there was a plywood floor attached to the joists above.

[@tobysauer225]

@@number1pappy The existing circuit is protected by a 20 amp breaker. 12 ga wire is required by code for that specific circuit due to the breaker.

[@catblue6393]

👍🏻

[@DirkGorgiel]

Wirenuts, never!

[@joejoe6949]

Man do you ever use a drill.

[@number1pappy]

Toxins? It's amazing to me how this current generation is obsessed with Toxins. I just couldn't do it. I just couldn't live in constant fear all the time. Seriously, the anxiety yall have must be terrible. Smh...

[@viktormorris194]

Better than mercury poisoning atleast😂 heavy metals aren't good for you grandpa

[@hj8607]

I just watch a video by your company installing ANCIENT can style recessed lighting . What gives ?? If you knew these wafer LEDs are available and low voltage lines are so much safe AND easier , Why install any CANS . (there is no reason)

[@RadioRich100]

Why are you using 12 gauge wire for led fixtures?

[@jovetj]

It's a 20 amp circuit.

[@RadioRich100]

@@jovetj You dont need a 20amp circuit for led lights.

[@jovetj]

@@RadioRich100 Of course you don't. But that's how the circuit is implemented. I'd venture a guess there are some 20A receptacles on the circuit, too. You'll have to complain to whomever first wired the place.