Upgrade Your T500 Water Supply : Separate Product & Reflux Condensers

The T500 still comes out of the box with the product & reflux condensers in line. This is fine for basic operation. But separating them will give you much more flexibility!
Beer Line:
www.homebrewing.org/316ID-x-7...
----------------------------------------------------------------
CTC Glencairn Glasses
chasethecraft.com/shop/ctc-gl...
Try Adventures In Home Brewing For Your Next Supplies Purchase (Free Shipping In The Lower 48 over $50):
www.homebrewing.org/CTC
Chase The Craft Calculators:
chasethecraft.com/mash-fermen...
----------------------------------------------------------------
Chase The Craft Shop (including new coins):
www.chasethecraft.com/shop
----------------------------------------------------------------
Still Its Patreon Page:
/ stillit
----------------------------------------------------------------
Listen To The Chase The Craft Podcast On The Website:
chasethecraft.com/podcast
Apple Podcast:
podcasts.apple.com/au/podcast...
Spotify:
open.spotify.com/show/39ItzOa...
Stitcher:
www.stitcher.com/podcast/chas...
-----------------------------------------------------
Sign Up To The Still It Mailing List Here:
www.chasethecraft.com
----------------------------------------------------------------
Still It Tee Shirts:
teespring.com/stores/stillit
Some Cool Distilling Stuff On Amazon:
www.amazon.com/shop/influence...
Subscribe To The Channel Here:
kzbin.info_c...
----------------------------------------------------------------
#still #distilling #BubblePlate
Just in case you didn’t realize I often include affiliate links in my videos and descriptions.
This will not change the price for you at all, But the seller will buy my a cup of coffee if you purchase from one of the links. Choice eh?

[@firebouy]

I'm looking forward to Part II of this video!! How to run the modification! 👌👌👌

[@dougcarter8384]

My thoughts exactly too

[@findingfreeblade]

I love the fact that you're now doing t500 videos right after I got one myself, this feels like the content is actually super relevant to me

[@findingfreeblade]

@@Gray-beard so one piece of advice for you, don't get complacent and think you'll remember to check it if it's at all out of direct line of sight, it takes hours and I get bored and find something else to do... I let my collection container overrun ... Don't do that, be wary for it because I was very lucky and nothing happened but I came very close to being an example of why distilling is dangerous

[@jimmarsden5911]

Fantastic! You now have me rummaging around my garage looking for parts to add on. Really clear and well explained as usual.

[@rldays9179]

I just purchased the T500 and this is an awesome idea. I think I will be doing this to help control the heat in the reflux chamber without it warming up in the other chamber first. Thanks for the lessons. it has all changed since last time I brewed about 15 yrs ago.

[@magnusbruce4051]

This seems much simpler than I'd anticipated! Also it looks to be completely reversible in case it doesn't work or you want to go back to a more simple setup. I'm considering getting a T500, so videos like this will most likely be very helpful!

[@mattl7599]

When is part 2 mate? Love to see it in action.

[@johnstone1199]

I am really close to buying one and this video was great as far as water possibilities are concerned. Thanks again for another great video.

[@Ripply774]

Great idea for vids, look forward to your take on what can be achieved with the wee t500

[@MultiTut69]

Almost makes me want to buy one to experiment with now. Great job!

[@kenwalker4203]

Great video I’m definitely going to try this I very much like the ability to control each things separately

[@davesmith3562]

Hey Jesse can't wait for your 2nd video on how to run this thing. I have a t500 and have a wash Comming up

[@RiggyRly]

I will look into doing this, I have been working on a RaspberryPi temp controller for the T500.

[@timkirk3736]

Love the vid. Can't wait to see it run "like a pot still" for reasons I'm sure you can surmise.

[@andyjhawk007]

I find the needle valve is very sensitive, as previously commented, however my experience was that it is all due to changing mains pressure and a small water pump connected to the needle valve solved the issue. I did like this idea and will certainly be implementing it. I have been watching your videos for some time and have leant a lot, I am very happy just running a t500 as I am happy just making vodka and gin and just experimenting with the botanicals. Being able to split the reflux cooling from the condenser cooling seems very sensible and easy and I'm annoyed I didn't think of it myself! Many thanks.

[@stevegoldman3423]

Awesome Jesse. Am going to do this with mine and a voltage regulator. Remove some packing,Bring on the rum.

[@HopsANDgnarly]

This is awesome! This system reminds me a lot of my Anvil Foundry that I use for brewing. I think they even have a condenser lid you can buy separately - might need to give that a shot! Big fan of your videos! Cheers 🍻

[@brandondunn7981]

Thanks bro. Love these t500 videos!

[@spikelove9533]

You can find brass hose barbs in the air tool section. Also other things that may come in handy. I way way prefer having separate inputs with controle Vs jumping my reflux water over from my main condencer. Im sure anyone seeing this will be great full for the info. Thanks Jesse for all the awesome vids

[@ericboyd8675]

Great video! I want to do this to mine but would love to see how you run it as a pot still first!

[@davesmith3562]

Love your t500 videos as this I what I've got myself

[@jock5656]

Great stuff Jesse, boys will always be boys and it’s great to mess with stuff to get better results. Looking forward to the next episode already 👍🏻

[@StillIt]

Thanks 👍

[@JohnKing-mx1di]

Great video. I've had my T500 for 7 months. The best mod for me so far is a £10 power controller. I've just started carbon filtering; it's a revalation. My next experiment is a birdwatchers wash. Right now I wouldn't know what to do with two different water supplies, but I'll look it up. Thank you for providing ideas to expand my knowledge....

[@matthewholmes2088]

Where did you get your power controller from please?

[@anthonybarra2391]

Interesting, worth playing with, experimenting with, Thankyou

[@keshwannaidu3943]

Adding a temperature probe at the top of the column would be a plus. That is what I have done to the one I have about a year ago. Makes it very versatile. Keep up the great work Jesse.

[@WhenTigersSmoked]

Where did you add the temperature probe to?

[@keshwannaidu3943]

@@WhenTigersSmoked At the top of the column where the vapor transits into the condenser.

[@BeardedBored]

Really easy fix. Nice!

[@containerseightandnine9756]

I will probably never buy one as I like using a keg and gas but always good to see a new vid .

[@barrysbuzz]

Hey Jesse… I have read the other comments below and it seems that people are wanting to see the modifications to the T500 used in a video to demonstrate the extra hoses etc. I feel the same. I would love to see you show us the benefits of a twin hose system on the he T500. Many thanks Jesse…. Love your videos

[@deeprespect665]

Thank you once again for an informative video! I was wondering if you did any actual distillations with the dual water supply, and if so, did you add a second thermometer to the top of the reflux chamber, and what you found the necessary temps to be at.

[@warrencourt7938]

Great that you are playing with the T500, this is what I currently have, looked at many different options, but this is so accessible. I now want to explore mods too, I recently bought the copper dome and condenser, which have limitations, a power regulator has helped. More recently bought sight glasses and bubble plates, which to be honest, are fun, but don't improve things too much. What I have learned is the Tri clamp accessories are readily available on AliExpress, and these and boiler options seem to open up a new avenue to explore. Keep up the good work, so much is learned from your posts.

[@thirstbuster78]

Would you mind sharing what you used for a power regulator?

[@warrencourt7938]

@@thirstbuster78 a 4000W scr, the one I got was off eBay. I haven't seen the same one available, but there are several similar ones. I also use an energenie power display so I know the input power.

[@thirstbuster78]

@@warrencourt7938 thanks for that. Ok start searching. When you reduce the power how does it affect the output? I'm assuming you can lower the abv and keep more of the flavour? I just started learning during the pandemic and now I'm getting creative :)

[@warrencourt7938]

@@thirstbuster78 turning the power down will affect output a little, the advantage is your not forcing some of the less volatile components through. You give the high volatile components time to release at a steadier rate, this likely helps keep any cuts you make better.

[@theironduke9214]

HI Jesse been running a T500 like this for several years. I've also put a PID controller on the front end. Always been disappointed with the doubters as I get fantastic results from this still. Like you I'm a whisky lover and it produces a great malt

[@kierenbeltrame3189]

By any chance have you posted about your mods anywhere? I'd love to read more as I'm starting to think about upgrading my still and am looking for inspiration :) I have a controls background from many years ago that I'd love to refresh through a little project

[@theironduke9214]

@@kierenbeltrame3189 Hi Kieren I've split the water feed into two as Jesse has I've put a PID controller on the power supply and I've replaced the standard stainless steel lid with the copper alembic dome. This gives me the ability to hang muslin bags underneath the column when in reflex mode and is great for gin(Juniper berries et al) and white rum (desiccated coconut) It's also better when running as a pot still

[@bobtheelectrician6692]

The condenser only needs to feel warm at the entry point to knock down whatever you are making. It's also touchy, but less critical than the reflux side. A spare needle valve works fine. Once you get away from the strict turbo recipes and set-up, best practice is to adjust the reflux to achieve a drip - drip - spurt flow, about as fast as you can say it normally, not to chase any arbitrary temperature. A lot of stuff is best around 66 degrees. It's a big help to have an alcohol refractometer as you work. Only need a single drop to measure ABV. If you are running too hot and fast, your ABV will go down below 80% since you are carrying over extra water. Icing on the cake is an SCR voltage controller with a keypad. Once you are boiling you don't need anywhere near full power to get optimum results. It's much easier fine tune 2% power with the keypad than it is to adjust the $%%^&* water valve.

[@aaronjoyce2864]

Nice one Jesse, great channel, I use a chilly bin which I freeze with about half level of water in it , when time comes for distilling top up the other half with water and a fountain pump and join water fitting for still to chilly bin, makes where you can distill very flexible, only need power..

[@TheAlbiCollier]

How big is your chilly bin mate? I live on tank water so want to circulate cooling water in a vessel, is that what you mean?

[@aaronjoyce2864]

@@TheAlbiCollier yea correct Mate, I live on lifestyle block, freezing liquid, be it in plastic bottles or half filling chilly bin ( mid size bin ) and put in large freezer overnight , top up with water just above pump when distilling , this water will circulate and end up back in the chilly bin were is cools again..

[@mattandruff8583]

I love the video. Love t500 content. Here's a suggestion for a video: I appreciate the how to do this.... But why as a newbie do I want to do this. Pot still... Makes sense...(I get it but does everyone) Stripping run... Why do that if I have a t500... Just a thought ... Your content rocks! Thanks for still it. I love it.

[@jamesingram8342]

I'm really excited to see your content on the t500 I have had one for a year and a bit and love it. But I have heard you can use it as a pot still but no one really shows you how it will work

[@mediaaccount6218]

First thing is to throttle back the voltage so its not going full whack the whole time, better cuts

[@kerrgo71]

This is so cool. I have had the T500 for a year now and been wanting to make some mods to it. I have just ordered a power controller to reduce the element power and then want to find a way to get the temperature at the top of the column.

[@mxj0048]

Where did you source the power controller?

[@kerrgo71]

@@mxj0048 from kegland www.kegland.com.au/4000w-power-station-240v-power-controller.html

[@iantaylor1341]

@@mxj0048 10000W High Power SCR Electronic Voltage Regulator Speed Controller AC 220V from EBay. Splice the active wire only from an extension cord into the SCR.

[@garrymcgaw4745]

@@iantaylor1341 Exactly, plus you can also put a 'amp, voltage and Kw/hur meter' in the box, I also put a little fan in there to keep the heat sink cooler. I'm surprised S P haven't released a version with all these mods as standard issue. A 400mm spool helps too.

[@MrPj901]

Do you have a video or podcast describing the benefits or why you would want to be able to individually control the condensers.

[@lavoiejp74]

Thanks for this video. But I wonder if it could overheat if you run it like a pot still (cooling only the product condenser)? I'm not sure of how this thing is build and wondering if it would sustain temperature higher than what it is designed to handle without damaging components.

[@PerJ1969]

Would really enjoy seeing a review/test on the T500 Water Flow Regulator as well. It looks to be a very nice addition to the T500 still for those that can't get a consistent water supply from the tap.

[@F3zza]

The Water Flow Regulator is a great addition when using the T500 in reflux mode. Especially along side a voltage controller. Not much use for the water regulator in pot still/stripping mode imo. Although I also have the alembic dome and condenser to use the T500 as a pot still or for stripping runs. So I've never tried using the reflux column for pot still purposes.

[@anthonybarra2391]

Watch ‘barley and hops brewing’, a guy named George. He has a video on the water controller amongst many other vids on this subject, it’s a great Chanel

[@Jake_B74]

$5 building centre bucket plus $20 Amazon pond pump = water pressure regulator. Set bucket under the tap, adjust the tap so you bucket stays 3/4 full...

[@F3zza]

Great video and one of the few ways you can improve on a pretty decent off the shelf product for home distilling. A voltage controller is the ultimate upgrade imho. Looking forward to more T500 videos. 👍

[@jttech44]

Yeah, having an SSR to dial it up/down is really handy, especially for a spirit run. It's a wonder they don't sell a version with one built in.

[@rocketsroc]

Actually, a voltage control is not the best. What is, is a PID which controls boiler temperature based on the temperature at the top of the column. This is where temperature is critical.

[@jttech44]

@@rocketsroc PID is tricky to run with reflux because it tends to knock your column out of equilibrium at the extremes of your fractions. What you want is an SSR that you can dial a power output in with. That controls the speed of your boil, which is directly related to vapor speed, so with that and control of your cooling capacity, you can hit equilibrium before you start your takeoff. That will give you really nice fractions. If you want to have something more automatic, you need a PID that you can program, which is more of a PIC at that point. Then you write a program to govern your runs and it's automatic from there. All the commercial guys are using something to that effect.

[@iantaylor1341]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/hIfNiGuiitabY80. The new spirit works boiler looks very good with this built in.

[@jamesbrooking9694]

⁠@@jttech44can you be more specific. Are you saying a solid state relay with voltage control? Can you post a link to one?

[@the_whiskeyshaman]

Yes sir that’s a good one. Plumb on brother.

[@jttech44]

A surprising amount of distilling is just plumbing.

[@djscottdog1]

Nice ideas

[@kennethmay5624]

Own a T500...create a start to finish pot still run? Great videos!

[@RNA0ROGER]

I use the water flow regulator with a hole in it to run a close loop water system

[@TheAlbiCollier]

Wow how big is your water tank?

[@roylocke2947]

Hi Jesse I think you will need a variable power supply as well to run as pot still. Thanks for your help

[@KB-uv7xo]

I agree. That is what I use for my T500 with an alembic dome

[@iantaylor1341]

Definitely.

[@rocketsroc]

No, you need a PID which is far more intelligent than a temp control. Go to Barley and Hops on KZbin to learn about them.

[@roylocke2947]

@@rocketsroc thanks yep even better

[@mxj0048]

Whats the best way to use a PID controller with the T500. Thanks for making videos on the T500 hope to see many more

[@blucifer9226]

Great video, really enjoying the craft and after nearly a year of running the 1gal air still I want to up my game. Would you recommend doing mods to this unit or just go straight for the t500 alembic?

[@markmilsom5235]

I have got the new T500 new boiler it's got two heaters and temperature control

[@josephheyes6964]

Hi Jesse. Interesting video on converting reflux to pot (kinda). However, can you give me some indication of volume of water into the top of the column and best outlet temperature. Also the volume of water into the condenser. Cheers, Joe

[@stewartmanders7611]

Seeing how to run it would be great

[@top6ear]

I like the Cyberdine systems T800 with dual hydrogen power cells and titanium alloy exoskeleton.

[@karlosss1868]

lol....

[@keith2880]

Ha ha did this 6 months ago. Run the product condenser only for a stripping run. For spirit run set product condenser to 400cc per min. And adjust reflux flow to control production rate to 10 cc per min. Kiwi ingenuity is alive and well.

[@rayparry7416]

How do we set temp on second hose ready to do upgrade waiting for reply .love all your videos

[@wormytom]

pretty good

[@davidallen4174]

Love your videos, we appreciate all your hard work. I've been checking out a problem with another hobby (laser printing) where it is important to keep cooling water as the laser heats up with use. I would like to know, if you have ever used an ice machine to maintain cool temps in the condensers. Countertop ice makers can be purchased for less than 100 bucks, they have a reservoir large enough to place a water pump down into the reservoir with water and allowed to run, dropping cubes every 5 minutes. As the water melts, it is recycled back into ice, keeping water in the reservoir cool. This probably isn't a new idea so I wanted to ask a pro if you think I could use this system to maintain the cooling water in my condensers below 1/2 the temp of the head vapor. I have a small still (pot = 5 gal.) operating on an induction plate at 1.6 to 1.8 KW. Have you ever tried this method for cooling water. I love the idea of your converted AC unit but this would be cheaper, less energy used, quieter, and a smaller footprint in my still area. I think I've watched all your videos at least once and would like your opinion before I invest in a little ice maker. Thanks for your response, please keep teaching.

[@julianmorrin6999]

I did try something similar once with the T500 of trying to recycle the outlet water through an ice bath and back into the still through a fountain pump setup. The issue I found was that the size of ice bath required and amount of ice (admittedly not from an ice maker) required to get the water back down from ~60c was probably more effort than just consuming the water across the distillation run.

[@davesmith3562]

He jesse did you ever make a new upto date video of you using tje modified t500 i would be really interested to see the outcome !!

[@paulswan1965]

Very Very interesting

[@vulturefilms2834]

Is there a part two to this on how to run as a pot still? I'd love to know it's possible before I go out and buy a secondary pot still

[@DavidNottageDelphiExpert]

I have a reflux still similar to the T500 that I couldn't really modify, so I ended up just buying an Alcoengine pot still condenser and a new lid to suit (the new condenser goes into a smaller hole). It takes only a minute to swap over and all up cost me AU$200. I can imagine that for Jesse the cost of the fittings and pipes would have mounted up

[@jimnz17]

hey Jesse, great mod. but whats it do? can we have a vid on how to use the two different condenser flows?

[@thomascaldwell6545]

Hi Jessie,can i just take out all the column packing and run as i usually would or do i need the 2 hose supply,also do i need to run twice,cheers mate,luving the videos mate

[@donnykiofetzis5775]

man these guys in NZ spent sleepless nights to invent the T500 to run like a rolls Royce. in ten mints of chopping hoses its running like a VW. you guys crack me up you just never see people that think out side the box.

[@mustavertwang]

Clever stuff

[@davesmith3562]

Would love more info on this I have a t500 and would like to know speed of running water etc. Also if the thermometer is still used ? Are packing still used etc... I'm a noob

[@erindrummond398]

I'd be interested to see the benefits in practice of this approach. I just went the other way on my bubble plate still - changed it from two separate inputs back to a single input. This made it *much* easier to run and also uses less water. The problem I have with the splitter is that if you open one side the pressure on the other side drops, making it very difficult to strike the correct balance.

[@jttech44]

You can alleviate that by having way more water pressure than you need before the valves because it won't change much. In practice, controlling both means you can control how much reflux you're getting, and, you can run your reflux condenser full-tilt to allow your column to flood and reach equilibrium before you start your take off. That means you get really good fractions coming off the still, ie, your heads cut and your tails cut will be very sharp and won't slur together at all. That gives you the maximum amount of clean neutral heads with nothing else in them. Having never run a bubble plated still, I'm not sure that you'd want your plates to flood, so, potentially you're not seeing as much benefit. I'd guess that you'd have to worry about your plate cooling water warming up as you run, and that changing the reflux ratio constantly throughout the run. Generally speaking that'd mean your fractions aren't as good and your heads/hearts and hearts/tails cuts won't be as distinct, but they're not that distinct on plated stills in general, nor do you want them to be, so it might be a non-starter.

[@erindrummond398]

@@jttech44 unfortunately there is a fixed size pipe coming into my house, so I can't just magic more water pressure. It's trivial to reach equilibrium on a single input, you can just pump as much water through as required for full reflux. Once the column is in equilibrium you can then back it off in order to get the desired output. This is much easier than fiddling with two different inputs where changing one also changes the other

[@rocketsroc]

That is why you need a needle valve on both hoses. Then you can reduce flow to the top condenser since it doesn't need as much flow as the main condenser.

[@rldays9179]

OK so I watched this and thought this is the most brilliant idea I have seen on youtube... Then I thought about it. The T500 and the thermometer are set up to read the temperature coming out of the still and it helps you visualise when you need more or less heat and if it is getting too close to the tails or if it hasn't got hot enough to get past the Methanol stage yet. By putting the 2 separate hoses in and cooling down the spirit like that is great for the spirit side and you won't need so much water to cool it because it hasn't been heated. But the thermometer will be reading the wrong temperature. It will be too cold and people will be bumping up their still trying to raise the temperature on the reflux side when in fact it is already boiling its patooty off but you won't know because you are reading the temp on the other side that now has absolutely nothing to do with it. What I am saying is it has been calibrated already and I think they give you the heat measurements in the box with the T500 to work with. Maybe a good idea to try when you have got the hang of the still and the temperatures but not for most newbies.

[@PaulSmith-jr1qe]

Hi Jesse, when you run it in pot still mode would you use an SCR to control the output rate.

[@allanmyers4988]

Great, I now have 2 inputs for cooling. At a guess (because there was no explanation ) I run the reflux condenser to recommended temp and the product condenser at full noise, a warm to the touch flow or ??

[@stephenlee62]

Great work. Hopefully, we're going to see how you actually use and control this new Frankenstein still :-) I love the T500 - it's so easy to use - but I want more flexibility out of it and am looking forward to seeing how you can turn it into a pot still.

[@jttech44]

Strictly speaking, you already have everything you need to run it as a pot still. Take the normal outlet hose off the fitting it's on now and plug it into the top of your condenser, like he's just shown. Presto, it's now a pot still. The reflux condenser won't do anything because it doesn't have water flowing through it, and it'll run like a pot still. Basically just turn it on and let it run, make your cuts in small jars, let them air out overnight, taste and blend. Easy as pie.

[@stephenlee62]

@@jttech44 Many thanks - I am a newby at distilling, but have already found that the T500 is really good, but limited. Next time I'll give this a go. Thanks again.

[@jttech44]

@@stephenlee62 No problem man! We all had to start somewhere. If you're a newbie, take really good notes on everything you do, that's the best advice I can give you. That way, if you make something spectacular, you have a way to replicate it, and if you make something terrible, you know how to avoid it. That, and hop over to reddit's /r/firewater forum, we're a friendly bunch =]

[@bernardwilson]

Hi Jesse, after seeing your review input on the T 500 I put an order in for one of these thanks to Black Friday discounts, and it will arrive tomorrow. The boiler has now been up rated and has a thermostat and has two power setting to select from making the element 2250w in total split 1750w and 500w. It still would benefit from an on off control but I will wait and see. As the problem with the boiler seems to have been sorted? I thought I would do the mod on the water supply from day 1. The supplier I use in the UK. Love Brewing sell the needle valve assembly complete for £10 with all the bits just leaving the 6mm hose to get and the garden hose to connect to the mains water supply. I am working on a hose pipe feed so your idea will be followed as you had it rigged up .Did you ever do any follow up films running the T500 with this mod as that would be excellent to see as my learning curve will be tight on this after only having an air still up to now. I have been watching all your films on the air still and love the way you get information across. Made many of your ideas for the Air still but I think I am starting to want more. Thanks for all your work. Bernie.

[@meganwood-hill8391]

I would love to know why you did that, and the difference in running water separately through each side. I'm a complete newbie ;)

[@alexwilke7398]

Good day.. First of all, Great channel, I've learned a lot. I purchased a Turbo 500 still. I have used it several times, with success. The only issue is that, despite being told it would take between 4-6 hours, it take more like 12-15 hours.. I run the temp consistently at 57'C.. and I get a very slow drip at about 1 drip every second to 1 drip every 2-3 seconds. I have seen in other videos that the drip rate and time from beginning to end are much higher.. What am I doing wrong. because in order to attend this still from beginning to end.. I have to stay up all night

[@amberhesamisogynistheard2653]

Same problem, I’m hoping that putting ice in the water bucket I use as a volumecontrol tank will do the trick

[@davidalder2201]

I have the same issue but realized after some research that it’s not anything I’m doing wrong. It seems that the still runs slower in the states possible due to the lower 120v power input vs 230v power in Australia (where it was designed). I maybe wrong but this is what I’ve seen in the forums.. The slow drip rate is also not really an issue, since you are likely getting super pure distillate. You can run it at a higher temp, like 60c and likely will notice the drip increases to a steady stream, with drips between. I’ve done this and stopped obsessing over the temp. I go by taste and smell and find no noticeable difference in flavor between a super slow run at 57c and an 8hr run at 60c.. my 2 cents.

[@skyhookspirits]

Jesse you are right on with this modification. One additional step I'd suggest. The column needs a thermometer or a temperature probe so you'll know how to fine tune the water flow, especially to the column condenser (which is pretty much a dephlegmator). You can drill a hole into the plastic cap on top of the column. Center your hole position in the center of the larger rounded section. There is nothing below the cap in that spot and the plastic isn't very thick. Drill the hole to best suit the temp device you're intending to use. I drilled and tapped it for a Type K thermal probe to use with my PID. With this arrangement, the T-500 is greatly improved...in my opinion.

[@RyanAbrey]

Does the plastic at the top have any issues. Especially running ad a pot still?

[@skyhookspirits]

@@RyanAbrey no, it is just a cap.

[@RyanAbrey]

@@skyhookspirits does the hot pot still run damage the cap?

[@skyhookspirits]

@@RyanAbrey No damage. At the top of the column is a coil of copper tubing which cools the vapor. It acts like a dephlegmator. This is the point where vapor transitions to the condenser. If you drill the cap and put in a thermometer or temp sensor at the top, you will be able to monitor temperature accurately and can adjust water flow to the top condenser's temperature more precisely. The side condenser can have a lot of water flow, but top condenser's water flow must be carefully regulated with a needle valve. Too much water flow and the column will get too cool and you won't get flow. Too little water and the column will flow too fast and out put will be fast, but not be the best quality.

[@RyanAbrey]

@@skyhookspirits ah so you can't run it completely as a pot still.

[@yomama69s]

The way I have to regulate condenser temp with my t500 is by water inlet temp as much as it is flow volume. I can't use a garden hose, as the water is too cold and my t500 WILL NOT maintain a temperature. The needle valve they provide is ridiculously fine. Don't even breathe on it or your still will have a conniption. I just adjust the hot/cold taps until I reach my target temps and start producing. I hope to learn new recipes other than the still spirits stuff, and how to do stripping runs soon... so much to learn!

[@rocketsroc]

This is why it is best to separate the two condensers and put each on a separate water supply with each being controlled with needle valves.

[@amberhesamisogynistheard2653]

Hey Jesse, should I be using the water flow regulator when using the t-500 in pot still mode?

[@clivedavies3]

I use the output from the heated water from my t500 to mash my grain for my next whiskey mash as the temp is controllable for the run and to set the temp for my mash lol, waste not want not.

[@hammondcheesa-angwich6009]

Jesse PLEASE how do you take the temperature of the outgoing water in pot still mode?

[@pcj83]

Hey Jesse, i have been all grain brewing now for a couple of years and am looking at doing some distillation, I have Keglands 35L and 65L boilers that I use for brewing, i can get a stainless lid for both that accepts the T-500 or keglands reflux still and pot still. What do you think would be better T-500 stainless at $400 Or T-500 copper at $500 Or Both the kegland copper reflux still and copper pot still for $350? Cheers 🍻

[@martinswanepoel6779]

You mentioned doing a extension on the T500 reflux pipe. Was this done cause I can't find it ? Thanks a lot !!!!

[@allanmclean5694]

Hey Jesse, thought I'd chip in, I recently made this mod on my t500 and it works great. I think I'm using less water now than before, even though there are 2 water supplies. I use the needle valve adapter that comes with the t500 on the condenser supply, and have one of still spirits water flow regulators on the reflux chamber supply. I used your garden hose double adapter trick, works like a charm. I got a power controller to back the power off just as product is about to start coming off too. Do you have an opinion on whether power controllers are useful on these reflux setups?

[@royceschaefer2824]

What temperatures are each tube supposed to be at roughly and how do u measure them separately if they need to be at certain temps

[@mattl7599]

What have you done with the temp probe as this would now not really work where it's sitting...

[@mrjohnthepom1]

Hi Jess watched a few of your You Tube Clips recently and I am now looking to get into distilling whisky, any advice on what would be the best system. I would rather it be future proofed as I would like to buy the best from the outset.

[@manueljulianrodriguez1705]

So if I want to use this still as a pot still, should I disconect the water tube, just condensing with the little one?

[@hendrikdiekema5863]

what is the maximum temp you allow at the top of the t500 condenser and maximum temp of your sugar wash 9kg in 25 ltr wash when in use

[@srdt6458]

So do you run the condenser water flow at a high flow rate and adjust the reflux to maintain 50 to 60C ? Or do you use different ranges depending on what you are making? Sorry I’m a newbie to the hobby…

[@gunlabchris]

For the product condenser how much water and do we need to be concerned about flow and temperature

[@harmfpv]

I am highly in doubt between the alembic or the reflux for the grainfather I am about to buy. I would say if I modify the reflux with your water mod, then the reflux is the most versatile isn't it? I mean I can make the column longer for cleaner/purer product and I can turn of the cooling on the reflux side to get more like pot still flavor extracting ability? In the end if I ever would like a second boiler I would like a smaller copper spanish alquitara alongside for the coolnessfactor and the looks. And also for some extreme flavor extractions; so an alembic dome as a starting point sounds like i would also need some kind of reflux setup down the road at some point; ending up with 3 stills... And a low footprint/storage size of my kit is important to me. What would be your suggestion?

[@neilmac4730]

I don't see the need to do it. I consistently get 94%

[@Azathoth4444]

You can make a beer or liquor from french toast crunch cereal.

[@thirstbuster78]

Did a part 2 come out, and I just can't find it?

[@michaelkieran3006]

great video , just wondering when I make this mod to my t500 should the water be going in at the bottom of product and column condensers and hot out top?? cheers

[@jamesleverton-smith6937]

Good question, depending how you hook up the cold water it will either run as a cocurrent condenser or counter current without going into to much detail a counter current will be more efficient and therefore you'll need less cold water for the same amount of cooling to be achieved. To get counter current connect up like in this video with a cold inlet at the bottom of condenser like normal and with outlet at the top, with this you'll just need sufficient flow to ensure everything condenses I'd start with it on high and just turn it down until you feel any warmth in outlet stream. For the reflux half have the cold going in the top opposite to the direction of flow of the vapour (counter current) I'd still record the outlet water temp as if you're getting outlet water at 50C I'd think this still would still be running at or close to full reflux, by allowing that temp to run hotter 80/90 C you'll be running much more like a pot still. Check out Jessie's other video on voltage control as I'd think to get the best out of a t500 as a pot still youd want to be running with less power input on your spirit runs. Hope this helps and have fun chasing the craft :)

[@michaelkieran3006]

Thanks heaps for the tips, yes I think I will need to order one of those voltage regulators ,love these videos and the community here Cheers

[@jamesleverton-smith6937]

@@michaelkieran3006 glad to help, the t500 is a great still with a few tweaks can do pretty much everything you could want. I'm big into gin distilling and the t500 does a great job cant decide if I like the slow gins (full refulx then flavour) or vapour gins (pot still with botanicals in the column) more

[@michaelkieran3006]

@@jamesleverton-smith6937 .amazing would love to give it a try after the mods

[@dereksiemens4524]

Yes how do you run it now?

[@olsenalien]

Thumbs UP !

[@rocketsroc]

Jesse, both the water flow hoses should be connected at the bottom of each condenser.

[@rocketsroc]

Sorry, meant Reflux condenser inlet is at top and main condenser inlet is at bottom.

[@mediaaccount6218]

How would you measure the temp mate?

[@pgprentice]

You don't need to worry about controlling the flow to the condenser just so long as you have water flowing you should be fine running it flat out. Get a large container and a pond pump for the condenser circuit.

[@paulhutchison6994]

Huffing is why you control the condenser water flow. Rapid vapor collapse is problematic. Sends vapor out of the condenser and can create a dangerous situation.

[@roelrutjes]

It is already an option to bypass te condensorcoil of te T500 just connect the outlet tube on top of the product condensor.

[@findingfreeblade]

I think the point of this was to do that but also to give one the option of some limited coil condenser action

[@algirdasvitkus982]

Dear @Still it , i have a question which i desperately need answer to, i've just bought this still system ( and yet to modify it) and i noticed that i get MUCH MUCH less product then expected few times already, i've always checked gravity and did all the math its definetely not fermentation ( or not enough booze in the mash). i cant see any leaks, maybe theyre arent visible to eye ? or could it be solely because its not cooling it enough in the condenser ? ( p.s. i keep my temp reading at 50 - 53 C )

[@ventura9513]

I'm about half way through building a 50 liter keg still, 2 x 3500 watt elements, 6 inch tri clamp and bowl reducer to 2 inch colum in the top, drain in the bottom,,, its gonna be a beast ,,,, but now i'm thinking , i shoulda just bought a t500 and be done with it,,,,, would have been cheaper too,,,, the keg alone has cost me just under 600 bucks and its not finished yet haha

[@jttech44]

That's way too much power for 50 liters into a 2" column. You should go with a 4inch column instead, and make sure you have an SSR to dial the power back on your elements once you hit boil. Also, next time, call around to your local microbrew and buy a used keg off them, they're like 50 bucks.

[@jeromeshort]

Don’t give up on your build, for me it’s half the fun and a continual process of refinement.

[@paulhutchison6994]

You'll be much happier with your keg. If you can go up to a 3 or 4" column. A single 3500w element will be more than is needed. I use a 4500w and once up to temp its cut back to 70% (3000w)

[@rocketsroc]

@@jttech44 In truth, the T-500 is good, but has no room to grow since it is a proprietary design, meaning nothing else will work with it. If you are serious about distilling, you need a system built around a good boiler (an 8 gallon still is great) and tri-clamp connections. This allows you to add on and change your system as you gain more experience. Go to Mile High or Brewhaus.com. These are great companies and they will have exactly what you need.

[@jttech44]

@@rocketsroc It's probably the simplest way to start that will make decent product. Personally, buying a used keg, and a column off ebay, a burner, hoses and you're good to go. Plus, it's much easier to run cuts on a 15 gallon pot still because they change so slowly. Also, it's pretty trivial to take what you have and build a modular CCVM and keep most of the same setup, and still have enough boiler to easily run a 3-4" column.

[@kevlar4384]

I wish I had one to go on my pot still 😔

[@JohnMcKelvie]

looks to me as if (at the start of the vid.) that the product condenser outflow is incorrectly plumbed to the alcohol-out?? I have a copperhead still and I think that they are closely related.

[@jason6175]

You only need one water supply. Put a T fitting on the hose coming out of the condenser. On the T, put one hose to exit the condenser. The other end of the T, put a hose with a valve on it going to the reflux chamber. That will give you free flow through the condenser and let you control flow through the reflux column.

[@rocketsroc]

Right, but each leg of the supply needs a separate needle valve to best control water flow.

[@jason6175]

@@rocketsroc true. But I believe Jesse did say he wasn't concerned about controlling flow through the condenser.

[@rocketsroc]

@@jason6175 Ya, I have to use city water so running water any faster than necessary costs, so needle valves on both sides lets me adjust the flow as needed to either. If water temperature is pretty cool, it doesn't take a huge flow through the condenser to condense, about 30 degree difference will do fine.

[@marcincieslak1961]

Has anyone got a parts list for using a single tap outlet and splitting the supply with a y piece and using 2 x needle valves?