Upgrading the Harbor Freight Bandsaw motor

[@timnevinger5056]

This is a very informative video as I often contemplate doing an upgrade like this. You showed the motor comparison, the problems, taught me big potential issues to watch out for etc. I really appreciate this. Something that suprised me was watching this bandsaw cut. It appears to me that my old Sears craftsman 12" tilt head and my standard model 12" craftsman both cut better than the saw in the video does.

[@blzziober2931]

What was the motor specifics you used for the new one, ie shaft size, rpms, etc. THANKS

[@RobertHuntleyHI]

Excellent video! Can you help me diagnose why my machine shakes and what causes that squeal? I just picked up a used saw. When it was demonstrated it ran smoothly. When I replaced the blade - no matter what setting I tried, it was never the same. The spare blades he gave me were thinner than what was on it (which was dull). Is there a way to merely adjust that shaking out? Thanks!

[@poultonprojects]

Have you tried changing the tires the rubber around the wheels?

[@RobertHuntleyHI]

@@poultonprojects I haven't because they look good. I'll look at them more closely tomorrow. Thanks!

[@CNTHINGS]

Old swamp cooler motors are great for this type of stuff.

[@bnaivar]

You'll find that Harbor Freight 3/4 HP motors usually test at 1/3 HP.

[@poultonprojects]

Yeah they are garbage!!

[@timnevinger5056]

This is informative! Because I swear my old Sears Craftsman tilt head and standard model both cut better than harbor freight! I never would have thought.

[@tpadgett2]

I realize this is an old video, and you probably know by now, but a new, 3-5 tpi blade, and a quality belt would make more of an improvement than the motor swap did. Not that it isnt a great motor, it is! And you did a good job and everything. But those belts suck power bad, and your blade is shot. Especially after the test run that went backwards. That sound was your blade's teeth hitting stuff, backwards, which will murder the blade. Either way, good luck and good job with the build.

[@Wildersport]

I never new the gray version had a 3/4 hp motor. I have the older green version and it came with a 1hp. I have a 1.5hp Harbor Freight motor I should swap in... I figure the 1hp can be used for a drum sander build..

[@mikelknight799]

Glade to see I'm not the only one that has problems doing something simple. LOL From my experience those belts you're running rob power BAD....

[@poultonprojects]

i bet they do know that i think about it

[@michaelmounts1269]

great video!! Doing the sane upgrade...can you tell me the leeson model number?? Also is your shaft size still 5/8? thanks!!

[@poultonprojects]

I did not have to do anything for the shaft it lined up perfectly. Model number m6c17f810L

[@cwilliamson23]

That things all moving around, im not sure if i'd feel safe running that thing lol

[@scottadams2624]

Thanks for letting us ride along during your troubleshooting. Good video and good information. Just curious, did you ever try a new blade? If so, were the effects significant?

[@poultonprojects]

Same blade I might do another test video on the new blade

[@poultonprojects]

Once I got the right belt settings it was a significant change from the old motor

[@rbwoodwork1890]

I would have someone make you an aluminum insert, makes a big difference. I had one made, big improvement with short or small pieces!

[@poultonprojects]

Where is the insert go?

[@poultonprojects]

Does

[@rbwoodwork1890]

On the table around the blade. Replace the plastic one.

[@louiel8711]

That factory motor has no power, even with a 3 tpi blade it's very easy to stall mine. Great video thanks

[@garymaynard7562]

Do you think the original motor would have been good if you had changed the belt/pulley to where you put it where it is now? I am also having the same problem with the same saw. I don't use it in the winter but I will try changing the belt to the higher speed as you did and not, hopefully, change the motor.

[@poultonprojects]

Great questions.... I do believe it’s just a weak motor that can’t handle larger wood. But I would love to hear back from you and see if it helps

[@kenhugen285]

Nice video! You should study how gear ratios work so you have a better understanding of big pulley vs little pulley and their relationship to each other. I would also level up that saw so it won’t rock while in use. Thanks for taking the time and sharing!

[@pemtax557]

Was there any way that you might have set up the saw with the original motor that could of handled the legs or was it truly underpowered so badly that it was never going to do the job you wanted? This turned into a pretty darn good video ... well done.

[@poultonprojects]

I tried multiple variations and any thing lager then 3 inches was a struggle I bet if I would of had a 3tpi blade it could have worked but still think it under powered

[@airborne2303]

Great video. More Horsepower Rocks. Test number whatever, LOL.

[@thewoodpost1428]

I have the same fn problem

[@mildyproductive9726]

I predict you will be a lot happier with your saw after reducing your blade pitch to 3-4 TPI. At 3 TPI you'll get rougher cuts in thin wood, 3/4" or less. And be careful about snagging dowels and small pieces. But you'll get straighter cuts without the struggling, and the blade will last much longer before it gets dull and no longer cuts right. I can make those cuts on a 2.5A saw.

[@poultonprojects]

Ohhhhhh thanks I will try this out!!!

[@poultonprojects]

What blades do you recommend

[@mildyproductive9726]

On my 14" saw, I like to run a 1/2" blade 0.025" thick, and either 3 or 4 TPI. If I didn't also have a smaller bandsaw, I might prefer a 3/8" blade, 0.032" thick, for the ability to cut straight in thick material and to cut tight radii. The downsides of a "too coarse" blade are pretty minimal. When you cut thin sheet goods and boards, who cares if you waste a tiny bit more wood in the kerf/finishing? I cut aluminum and brass, too. No need to change blades. The 3-4 TPI blade will also be able to graze and shape, in case you missed your line, without having to hog off a lot of material with a sander!

[@poultonprojects]

@@mildyproductive9726 I just put the 3 tip on my bandsaw holy crap!!! What a difference!!! So pleased I resawed my first hardwood over the weekend I can’t thank you enough!!!

[@johnekins4408]

The Olson FB 23193DB 93.5 x 0.5 3 tpi blade works well for re-sawing even with the standard motor.

[@poultonprojects]

good deal just got one in my cart will try it out

[@chuckmarch5552]

Look for an old delta . They're the best for the money. I bought one for $100 with riser block.. Don't waste your money on Harbor Freight.

[@Che_mo80]

I think you need to change your blade

[@poultonprojects]

I did I got the lower tpi and it’s been great!

[@Che_mo80]

@@poultonprojects i had the same issue, i was struggling to cut some soft pine. It felt as if i was cutting 5 inch walnut with a 18v dewalt saw, it was a struggle. but once i got it replaced it was smooth as butter. I look for wood to cut now, even scrap wood.

[@cityguyusa]

You need to stabalize the entire saw.

[@tomsuica8731]

Bro this sucks you didnt put a new blade on it and said you would to the cut in real time and cut it off...

[@thewoodpost1428]

😂😂😂😂😂😂

[@anthonybailey2010]

get a new blade man, that thing sounds awefull

[@poultonprojects]

just got the 3/4 inch 3tpi omg its amazing!!!