Upside-down Rain Barrels

[@TheReviewPigeon]

Out of all the rain barrel video's - this is the one I want to copy entirely. thanks

[@BenBrandt22]

Thank you!

[@itsjiraheta]

Yes, I second the comment.

[@Guitarzan8]

@@itsjiraheta And I 39th'ed (liked) the comment 😊

[@danielyang361]

Thanks for sharing. I thought about this inverted barrels system but wasn't sure about the details, which you have kindly demonstrated!

[@edfritz]

Thank you very much for making this video! I essentially did the exact same thing with just a few modifications to the design. 1) I added some filter material to the air vent to prevent insects from getting in. 2) I added a 1.5" valve/tap to the system so I can quickly fill up buckets. 3) [MOST IMPORTANTLY] I used CLEAR PVC Schedule 40 pipe and 2 clear right-angle fittings as the Filler (intake) pipe. This allows me to see how full the tanks are at a glance. I can even see if there is water in the pipes underneath by looking at the clear right-angle fitting on the bottom. (Wish I could send a photo). You can tap from anywhere below the barrels to run a clear measuring tube wherever you want to see it. Just remember to allow it to vent at the top - a loose/unglued cap will suffice. (UPDATE) 4) I have also added a valve between the barrels and the in/out-take (fill pipe & taps) part of the system so I can maintain/upgrade that part of the system without losing my stored water...This has already proven useful! (Another Update) Check out these RAINWATER DIVERTER KITS, they are well-made (3d printed), incredibly well-designed, and they are easy to maintain. Overflow (when the water backs up) simply continues down your downspout like normal, no need for an overflow system. They work GREAT: (Etsy: "New Removable Rainwater Diverter Kit" - www.etsy.com/listing/990551959/new-removable-rainwater-diverter-kit-2x3)

[@brucelandeg1371]

Under no. 3, if you already have white PVC fill pipe, could you reserve one of the small tube holes to use with a clear pipe from bottom of barrel run vertically up the outside as a system fill indicator? No air vent in one barrel.

[@edfritz]

@@brucelandeg1371 Hmmm, if it is what I'm imagining I don't believe it will work. Let me see here; are you saying that instead of running an air vent pipe up into the barrel you would instead use that hole and fitting to run OUTSIDE the barrel and back up for a clear PVC pipe to measure the water inside the barrel? If so, I don't believe that will work because the air in the barrel wouldn't have anywhere to escape to allow the water to fill up...If you drilled a hole or added some kind of vent to the top of the barrel that would work because you need to displace the air for the water to fill the barrel. Quite frankly, though, you can tap this clear "measurement" pipe on any part of the plumbing system below the barrels. I just thought to dual-purpose the intake pipe and save myself the time, money, and effort of running another pipe. If you want, you could even T the bottom of the fill pipe and add the clear pipe parallel to your fill pipe. I had also placed a big valve between the tanks and the fill pipe & taps so I could keep the water stored safely while maintaining or upgrading the in/out plumbing. Since I built this 4-barrel system I had also built another 6-barrel system on the other side of my house. There, I put a valve between every barrel as well as a main valve between the in/out-takes. I did this in case I need to do a repair on any particular barrel. Probably a little overkill, though. I also ran a pipe from that system to my backyard so I could use the water where I need it or to refill the 4-barrel system. On that pipe, I put a T fitting and placed my clear PVC pipe on that so I can see how full the front yard barrels are from the backyard. Remember, the clear pipes need to vent as well, a loose cap will work fine (no glue)...This is also why I thought to use it on the intake pipe. There is some information you may want to know if you are using a water pump with this system...I just figured it out this weekend...I can also recommend a couple of water pumps that work well for me... Please let me know if I can give you any more help! Good luck!

[@brucelandeg1371]

@@edfritz Thanks very much for a swift and detailed reply. Yes, I could add a hole to the top of the barrel with the outside clear level gauge. But in another comment herein, it was stated... "You can probably get rid of the vent tube if your water source is air tight and is about 1 to 2 feet above the barrel. This will compress the air and give you more water pressure. Also you want to use 1/2 in. PVC Sch. 40 Slip x Slip Ball Valve with a two 1/2 inch risers. This will allow you more water flow." I was intrigued by the pressurized version with 1-2' of additional head pressure and also by your first comments. But I realize any pressurized system would throw off the calibration and simplicity of a barrel level clear gauge in a non-pressurized system. In lieu of pumping on discharge side I can elevate my barrel bottoms to about 42" above grade. With that height hose pressure should be adequate and I would like to avoid pumps. With your other thoughts on clear tube location, I think I will move it by adding a tee to my 3/4" discharge line before the hose bib for a clear tube reading right where I draw water. We get very high intensity rains in TX. That being said, I can see some heavy overflow conditions (I am doing a 3" dia. wye version of the one here with 1-1/2" PVC run to the underside of 3 barrels. The diverter design and first flush concepts probably vary in different parts of the country. Here it might be pretty important and any thoughts on the front end of the system are welcome. I might need an overflow and an emergency overflow. Might some overflow come out the vent tubes if things are backup and create some head above the barrels? If so, a hung gutter section under the vents might be useful to flow that overflow water somewhere useful.

[@edfritz]

​@@brucelandeg1371 So, I agree with everything you said about the pressurized system. I can see a lot of issues with it that I don't think is worth doing it, the biggest is you lose storage capacity. But, yeah, not only will your measuring gauge be inaccurate but it'll also be where the inside pressure will push out all of your water until the pressure equalizes (really, your barrels will just never pressurize and will only fill up to the equalization point then it will push the rest out of your measutring tube). If you cap the top of the measuring tube then maybe you'll get a more accurate reading. But, what a mess! I had thought about using the air vent tubes as an overflow, too. And the way I built them I could add PVC tube to them on the outside to divert the water (Similar to you adding some guttering below them to divert any overflow). [WHAT I DID: I took the barrel cap with the 3/4" thread and screwed a threaded PVC fitting through from the inside leaving some thread on the outside of the cap. I glued in my length of PVC air vent pipe on the inside and mounted it back on the barrel. On the outside thread, I added a threaded cap that I drilled a 1/2" hole in the top. I placed some mesh material in the hole so air could pass but insects couldn't] Ultimately I decided this wasn't worth the effort because my choice of rainwater gutter/downspout diverter already handled my overflow issues. Also, I figured I'd have to attach a larger 1-1/2" pipe to the air vent pipes so I didn't restrict airflow and lower the water flow coming out of my taps. Check out these rain diverters, they are well-made (3d printed), incredibly designed, and they are easy to maintain. Overflow (when it backs up) simply continues down your gutter downspout like normal, no need for an overflow system. They work GREAT: (Etsy: "New Removable Rainwater Diverter Kit" - www.etsy.com/listing/990551959/new-removable-rainwater-diverter-kit-2x3) So, I discovered that if you are using a pump (which you don't seem too interested in) and your measuring tube is near the tap (discharge port) where your pump is attached, and you don't have an airtight cap (which will not allow it to work anyway) or a valve on the top of it, the tube will be sucked dry of water first and introduce air into your pump - reducing and creating a pulsation in the water flow. I just discovered this and I plan on attaching a valve to the top that I can close when using the pump. This system is only used to refill my 4-barrel system, so it's not much of a bother. But, if it were being used with a garden hose for daily watering it would be rather annoying to remember to close/open before and after each use. You may want to consider this if it is near your discharge line...

[@briholt100]

For the pipe that screws in to the bung of the barrel did you need to use any Teflon tape or anything to prevent leaking?

[@victorious592]

Well done!!!! The imitation is the highest form of flattery….so thank you!!!😊

[@rarafuse]

I made this as per your video with 6 barrels and posted it today on our local gardening FB site, already a 160 likes and lots of conversations, questions,. I posted a link to your site.

[@williamrbuchanan4153]

Well done system, just shows what you can do for dry times in garden growing, neat and tidy . Thanks for that one.

[@OnCall24Seven]

Love the scaffolding idea! I have 30 barrels to use in 3 separate locations. Even if I do 10 each location it will still be a challenge to lay them down...however, your idea put thoughts in my head. Thank you so much for a well lit, well edited video!!! Looking forward to finding the others.

[@Vicflash]

Very nicely done video. And very nice barrel setup. Thanks

[@65csx83]

Excellent rain barrel configuration and equally excellent video.

[@donwagner8126]

I like the graphics that explain it so well. You can probably get rid of the vent tube if your water source is air tight and is about 1 to 2 feet above the barrel. This will compress the air and give you more water pressure. Also you want to use 1/2 in. PVC Sch. 40 Slip x Slip Ball Valve with a two 1/2 inch risers. This will allow you more water flow. Finally try to use a 3/4 inch hose versus 5/8 inch.

[@robindegu7294]

this should be in top comments

[@brucelandeg1371]

I am not sure I understand... "Also you want to use 1/2 in. PVC Sch. 40 Slip x Slip Ball Valve with a two 1/2 inch risers." Where is this feature at? Can anyone clarify?

[@claireanderson2078]

Brillant! I especially like not having to make extra holes in the barrels. Thank you.

[@BenBrandt22]

Thanks! I agree, I was glad I didn't have to hack into them and add more potential for leaks.

[@Ricky16317]

This is brilliant! I was trying to find a way to mount my barrels vertically in parallel without cutting more holes for bulk heads in them, those vents solve my problem perfectly!

[@thomaskn1012]

One really important thing to point out is that **make sure the downspout fill tube (i.e. incoming water tube) is NOT higher than the level of the vent tubes**. If it is, you might end up with an Automatic Bell Siphon: kzbin.info/www/bejne/lae5kK2VZdF5h5o

[@mamabear4576]

I LOVE the screen in the pvc. That is a great idea! Thank you for sharing.

[@kurtdowney1489]

Very nice clean organized system.

[@Randy2747]

I have looked at ALOT of videos and I have to mention that Your work is very clean looking! I love the way you hid the ugly PVC pipes under the bench, great idea and craftsmanship! Thanks agian for sharing your thoughts and designs, and tips! I can't wait to get started on mine now.

[@BenBrandt22]

Randy E Thanks again. I really enjoy the clean aesthetic as well. It took some work to get it all fitted together but I'm very happy with the result.

[@ddtstartrex2408]

Can we have a material list what we need to complete build this system...

[@curtdunlap6818]

Nice video, Ben, and thanks for posting it! I have seen a few videos of these types of collection systems, but almost all of them were destructive to the barrels by drilling holes in them for whatever reason. However, there was one I saw where the person laid the barrels on the sides with the spouts oriented vertically so that the bottom spouts were used for fill & delivery and the tops were use for the vents & overflows. This could make maintenance a little easier should you need to work on a particular barrel on the system. Either way you stack the water, I would also recommend for the price of a ball valve and a union coupling plus a controlled method to bleed out the barrel (i.e. a boiler valve and a tee) per barrel to add these on the stub side of the tees to allow you to isolate each barrel from the rest of the reservoir system without compromising the entire system in the event you need to remove one of the tanks. In essence, it's a basic controlled manifold tree (for want of a better term)! Anyway, I gotta go see your diverter! Thanks!

[@tullyriverquail]

Those large pvc with Red T ball valves inevitably get frozen/stuck. Hot tubs are notorious for this if you ask any h t repairguy. Wondering if it would be best to consider brass for all shut offs, spigot, and maybe even for the pipes. In PA I have to be concerned with freezing. As most PVC comes from sub-grade plastic China, they will always crack, especially when you don't want them to. They could be pipe wrapped with thermal wire, foam insulated, a thermally controlled (35° on) outlet could control a small circulation pump from the end of the bottom feed run and back into the main feed line from the rain catcher, and run a deicer in a separate insulated 5 gallon (water heater) bucket or tank, removed in the temperate months. Circulating the water keeps the pond scum (mold, bacteria et al) down, similar to a pond aerator. Working on this system to provide drinking water to my Quail water system. Btw, the barrel fittings are called "bungs" and one side has a course thread, the other fine thread. You can buy these on Amazon in sets, or 5 packs etc and most come with a 3/4" center knock out. Don't forget your bung wrench :) your pals at Tully River Quail, "Q is for Quail"

[@PhilipTruongpntruong]

Very clever ideas. Especially the air vent. I've been wondering how to do without drilling additional holes.

[@flashgordon6238]

One of the best rain barrel videos I've seen here! (and I have watched dozens) I have been gathering the parts for a bottom fill system and researching the physics involved (Pascal's Law) so I don't have to drill any additional holes in the barrels. Love the temporary scaffolding idea to tip the unit for assembly/maintenance and the graphics you used for explanation.

[@BenBrandt22]

Thanks +Flash Gordon. I found I got a lot of questions about how the bottom-filling feature works, so I figured it would require some good graphical explanation. Glad you found it useful. Best of luck on your project.

[@edfritz]

Because I have been getting so many questions about my modifications to Ben Brandt's upside down rain barrel designs I quickly made a short video to show and explain the difference: kzbin.info/www/bejne/hZeUZaOPfL9oeNE 1) Water gauge 2) Water pump 3) Riser height 4) Large tap for bucket filling 5) Higher flow hose tap 6) Downspout water diverter 7) Maintenance ready barrels/plumbing I hope this is helpful.

[@briholt100]

Thank you!

[@sesomyort]

Thanks for the video... My only concern is water pressure, if that is of importance in the entire setup. It seems that uniformly filling the barrels is less advantageous than filling in sequence. This means that after the first barrel is filled, it will overflow to the adjacent barrel and the same for each barrel in sequence. This will allow the first barrel to always have the highest water level, thus the maximum pressure.

[@delaveganz]

I agree that filling the barrels sequentially is ideal to buld pressure - but that means more plumbing so that you select which barrel to drain one at a time.

[@moly1001]

Great video, Ben, your camera work is great - nothing to the imagination! Many thanks

[@SaintMartins]

Nice ! You've just inspired me to do the same ! Everyone should do this especially in California.

[@albertovelazquezramirez5109]

Not only in califas , but the entirely world !!

[@lur3950]

I like this system.

[@husseinvirani]

Genius. 💡 well thought out 👏🏽

[@yohanneslucky5538]

Thank you for educating me.

[@Guitarzan8]

It's been a while, I'm wondering what you have learned, and what could be better? Were the upside down barrels the best way to go? Could the filter system be better? How much do you maintain it, like cleaning the screen or spraying out the Diverter?

[@Hojjiifp]

Great idea not drilling into the barrels...love it..

[@Shadow20913]

Near setup- I've seen your rain diverter video and will try it out myself - thanks

[@BenBrandt22]

Manny Garcia Thanks Manny

[@9014jayvictor]

smartest design yet

[@jss3018]

Simple and effective, what more do you need? Thanks. I like the bottom fill.

[@akfw2325]

I set up my rain barrels just like yours this Spring and I haven't use any water from my house tap. Great design!

[@BenBrandt22]

Excellent! Glad to hear it's working well :-)

[@bquedenfeld]

great job love those in side vents

[@BenBrandt22]

+bruce q Thanks, me too

[@francesco3207]

I built this system. The problem is once all pipes are welded in place there is NO ABILITY to unscrew, disassemble to maintain or clean. I had to hacksaw them apart 3 years later to flip them over and clean out algae. I am now trying to configure a way to avoid using my sawzall just for basic maintainace. I have all the pics of the before after ....what a mess to dissasamble and flip over just to clean.

[@edfritz]

Take a look at my modifications to Ben's system. I allowed a way to maintain the barrels without having to cut the pipes. kzbin.info/www/bejne/hZeUZaOPfL9oeNE

[@BGP369]

Hi from the future - that spigot is ok for filling a glass, but if you want to fill a watering bucket, you may want a higher water flow :)

[@AJDIYNetwork]

Excellent video! Thanks for your help. With your advice and how you demonstrated your technique, I have also produced my own rain harvesting here in upstate New York. I created a video that hopefully helps. Thanks again.

[@justjames9246]

"The large cap has a standard pipe thread on it". I have yet to find any plumbing piece that fits this opening. It's definitely a coarse thread. I've barrels from multiple sources and they all have this coarse thread that doesn't fit standard pipe connectors. But love the setup.

[@edfritz]

One side of the barrel has a course threaded plug the other side has a fine threaded plug. The fine threaded side takes a standard 2" threaded PVC adapter and the course sided plug needs to be drilled out like in the video to allow are 3/4" threaded PVC adapter and pipe to be added to the inside of the barrel as an air vent. Try unscrewing both of the barrel plugs and you'll see the difference.

[@daveb1230]

Hey Ben, really cool idea -- I think I'm going to try this. For those of us who are a little less experienced with PVC -- could you possibly provide a materials list that you used? Want to make sure I look/ask for all of the right parts at Home Depot. Thanks!!

[@ddtstartrex2408]

Did he send you a parts list?

[@livetohash6152]

Curiously, how do you keep leaves & roof debris out of the system with no filters 🤔

[@DStokesNC]

Ben, hands down the best video I've seen for a rain barrel system. I just subscribed to your channel and can't wait to see your next video. I love these home DIY projects. Extremely well done and I LOVE your attention to detail. Question, did you use any pipe sealant or anything for the screw cap for the air vent? I'm picking up 4 rain barrels tomorrow and excited to work on this project. Have you had any problems going from I'm assuming the 2" pipe to the reduced 3/4" pipe for the spigot?

[@briholt100]

If one does need to take these apart, one would have to cut through the pipes that had been cemented togther. I wounder if the pvc union/couplers would be a way to avoid having to cut the pipes?

[@petec6690]

Nice vid. How do you deal with first flush rainwater from the roof? I see other guys having some sort of waste system to capture the dirt that comes off the roof first before filling their barrels. Your system worries me that if the bottom pipe fills up with silt you don't seem to have a real good way of clearing it without first draining all the barrels. And if that pipe clogs then your 3/4" ball valve will also clog. No?

I had a problem using the 2" PVC in the winter it's get freeze up and crack PVC do you have any idea ? I do have a similar system like your any help would be appreciate very much thank you

[@BenBrandt22]

+Drew Stokes (I can't reply to your comment due to your KZbin/Google+ settings) Thank you for the kind words. I didn't use anything on the threads for the caps, but in hindsight I would recommend using something, perhaps teflon tape to get a good seal. I have a couple very small leaks, so I would say seal things up as much as you can. Reducing the pipe down for the spigot was pretty easy with the right PVC reducer fittings. I assembled & tightened most of it before attaching it to the larger system.

[@Ppuffdiddleydangdoof]

Man, there are some really smart and clever people and you are definitely one of them. Your diverter is vastly superior to the one I bought in the store and installed. I'm building it tomorrow. I also bought some L-screws to make racks for some pegboard you described in another great video. Thank you for sharing this very well thought out design Ben.

[@BenBrandt22]

+Winston Smith Awesome, thank you sir.

[@Ppuffdiddleydangdoof]

Thank YOU Ben. I have a question: what size pipe did you use for the fill lines from the diverter? I bought all 2" but think the 2" male adapters hubs may be too large for the barrel plug openings, even though they are 2" FPT.

[@BenBrandt22]

+Winston Smith I think 1.5". I got the fittings for the barrels and just matched my pipe to those.

[@milvolts1]

The stream of water was very low pressure? Good build non the less

[@walkingmonument]

This system will fill all of the barrels simultaneously. So if one barrel is half full, all of them are half full. This has advantages and disadvantages. I personally prefer an open barrel system. Rain water is clearly good for plants but rain water with fish that produce fish waste, aka...free fertilizer, is even better for plants. This system creates the perfect haven for mosquitos. The mosquitos will find their way up the air vents and lay their eggs in the water. A simple fix is placing a screen on each of the air vents. In an open water system with fish, the mosquitos will lay their eggs but the fish will only eat them.

[@ToanDuy]

Very nice setup. I'm very interested in going with a bottom fill system such as yours because it's so clean, but am concerned that the one draw back might be that it's more difficult to perform maintenance on the barrels. In the 6 years since this video was posted, do you find this to be the case? Have you needed to perform yearly maintenance on anything like the connections under the barrels?

[@francesco3207]

I can send you pictures of how to dissassemble after 3 years to clean out mold/algae. I had to HACKSAW them apart. Very pissed off as they are permanently welded in place and no way to unscrew!!!

[@brucelandeg1371]

@@francesco3207 After the 'hack' job did you try unions between each barrel?

[@loncarr7821]

Would like to see/know more info about the diverter at the downspout. Can you direct me to the video of this portion of your project. Thanks Lon c

[@JeremyCook]

Nice looking build!

[@BenBrandt22]

+Jeremy S. Cook Thanks Jeremy

[@jeffreyrau3523]

would love information on the breather tube set up. This is the only thing I'm struggling with before I finish my set up.

[@michaeleason2534]

You indicated your barrels had pipe threads caps. Can you elaborate with more detail the way you connected the 2" fill pipe?

[@adambrunk10]

Can you elaborate more on the bung threads for air venting.. as in what process do we do to get a hole through the bung cap without messing it up and keeping the threads in plaxd

[@libertybellbeekeepers]

The corse threaded bung is also threaded inside. You have to knock out/drill the center out. And thread/seal a pvc connector into it that will accept the 3/4 pve vent pipe that inside or the barrel.

[@WhataTry]

Will you need to support the main filler pipe underneath with brackets cos pressure of full barrels of water will force them down,???? grt job .

[@bubbap8595]

Hey man, you seem knowledgeable and I'm having trouble finding a solid solution.... If I link my barrels together in a row 4 inches from the bottoms with simple pvc connectors between each barrel, not using a "manifold" ,and instead let a vent hole in the top for air to escape, would all my barrels fill full?? I plan to simply link 5 in a row with connectors between each, use a pump to fill first in line, from nearly stream, then, with a jetpump and pressure tank I plan to suck/draw water from the last barrel in line, to feed my off grid cabin..... If I link barrels 4 inches up and only feed barrel 1 in line, will barrel 5 fill full also,, or no?

[@geraldfischer1057]

good content - what about a solar panel and a battery for a possible water heater - to keep your water from freezing and not needing to drain.

[@kovalenramen5856]

Hi....I have a question....from each barrel there is a vent and an incoming water pipe...that's OK. Now how the water in the barrel comes out to feed the tap!

[@BenBrandt22]

The incoming pipes are also the outgoing pipes. It both fills and empties through the bottoms of each barrel.

[@mcanultymichelle]

Very nice looking. But can you clean this system??.

[@MichaelHCook]

Great work, Ben! Quick Question for you: I'm not sure which part of the country you're in, but have you had any problems with these barrels freezing and possibly bursting or cracking during the winter months?

[@BenBrandt22]

Good question. I'm in Minnesota. Every fall, I disconnect the diverter from the downspout, and drain the whole setup so it's empty for the winter. Thus far no issues.

I do have the same problem when the winter is freeze up and it have been cracked on my pipe PVC and it's a pain to replace PVC now thank you

[@bossdog1480]

Great idea Ben. Had to sub on the strength of that alone. I see this was released in 2015, how is it holding up?

[@anthonynguyen9779]

I have seen quite a few videos on this subject and must say that this is a very clean system. I like it. I will try this way for my next set up. My only 'issue' is the amount of framing you have done. It was WAY too overkill.

[@rockyalvarez520]

How about some sort of meter so you know how much water is?

[@harmac521]

Whats the benefits of upside down barrels? and how do you seal the removable lid? i really dont get it..

[@TRPGpilot]

Same question I had, no response for your question 2 months ago so I don't suppose we will ever know.

[@edfritz]

These blue barrels don't have a removable lid. So, depending on the barrels you have, you'll have to be imaginative to make them work for this design.

[@dlighted8861]

Well done. But are there true advantages other than hiding the plumbing? I.E. do you get more pressure?

[@kendrick.e.williams]

You said that you can drain it, but do you ever have to flush it out?

[@BenBrandt22]

I'm sure there's some sediment in there after so many years, but we haven't had an issue with flow so we haven't bothered putting in the effort to really flush it out. Although a couple times I've drained it by unscrewing the cleanout on the central pvc pipe, which basically flushes out the lowest point.

[@jplant1414]

You, sir, are a steely-eyed missile man. I'm inspired to copy your design straight-up. With the benefit of hindsight, are there modifications you would recommend? Cheers.

[@BenBrandt22]

Thank you, but I'm no Rich Purnell. The table/barrel setup makes it hard to remove or clean barrels. I've never felt the need to yet, but I know it won't be easy should I have to. I'm not sure what the best modification would be though. Overall I'm pretty happy with the setup. My diverter can splash out the top in a big rain, so perhaps a more enclosed off-the-shelf diverter could help.

[@tamasmaksza6450]

Copied your system (almost) verbatim... water sheds from 400sq ft garage roof.... filled the four barrels with a 1.1" rainfall. Used unions on all the connectors and a 1" spigot. Thx!!

[@GWBarker]

Do you have a rough cut list for this?

[@DoctorShrink]

Don't see much advantage except for aesthetics. You could also just box in a top fill arrangement. I don't like the idea of a potential siphon. Also over time the bottom will have micro debris and bottom fill stires this up more than a top fill does.

[@edfritz]

So long as your water diverter is lower than the top of the air vents you will not have a problem with siphoning. Also, you can add a larger valve and tap to get out any debris as well as to give you an easy way to fill buckets and watering cans. See my modifications video for an example: kzbin.info/www/bejne/hZeUZaOPfL9oeNE

[@swfblacksheep703]

I built my rain barrels using the system and I like how clean it is. I went with a three barrel system but I am having a problem with my middle Barrel siphoning the water through the vent tube after being overfilled. Would you suggest venting the individual barrels on the top or adding more drainage?

[@brucelandeg1371]

How did you solve the siphoning problem? Add a vent hole on middle barrel? Change fill elevation? or cap off middle vent tube and let that barrel pressurize?

[@swfblacksheep703]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/f4LEfaeuft6Zh9E

[@edfritz]

To fix this issues, LOWER your downspout rain water diverter overflow point to below the top of your vent tubes. You can also drill a few 1/8" holes around the rounded top edge of the barrels to break the vapor lock that is draining your barrels. So long as the water doesn't start coming out of the vents you don't have to worry about siphoning.

[@swfblacksheep703]

@brucelandeg1371 I didn't want to add any open holes because of mosquitos in Florida. I added a 1.5" pvc at the maximum fillable height. The barrels now have 2 overflow drains. I also added a first flush, so that slowed things down a little also.

[@lauralarios423]

Like your video. I do have a Q? What kind of divert did you used ? Thanks

[@francisspaffordfrank8315]

Is there a parts list for the upside down rain barrel system?

[@edfritz]

I got some of the parts listed on my video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/hZeUZaOPfL9oeNE Otherwise, you are generally dealing with 2-inch and 3/4-inch pipes and fittings.

[@oldgrizzlygamer]

I know this is an old video, but I am getting ready to set up rain collection system and would like to copy this. Do you have a drawing of the platform you created?

[@SeaJay_Oceans]

NICE !

[@MrDaveusa]

This is an excellent design. Thanks for posting. What filters did you use at the vent tube inlets to keep insects from crawling up inside?

[@denesdolor975]

hello. what is the size of the adapter fittings you use on the drum input???

[@whiplash984]

I just stumbled upon this channel and now ive started to binge watch all of your videos . I do have a few questions in regards to your rain barrel system. the vent tube was a good idea the only thing i dont exactly know is, did you put a mesh over it? I ask because even if a mosquito doesnt get in there, something else might? also since you use this to water your garden , do you use a pump of some sort? or is is a drip system ?

[@franka5877]

Awesome design. I think I am going to have to make this. Have you had any issues now that you have used it? Being a closed system do you have to worry about mosquitos or cleaning out the barrels?

[@BenBrandt22]

+Frank A Technically there are a few ways mosquitoes could get in (vent tubes and water inlet), but it hasn't been a problem. Because of the blue barrels, sunlight can't really get inside to grow algae. I'm sure the insides are a little dirty just from dirt in the water, but the stuff coming out looks clean enough. I think the winter may help as well, since it forces me to drain most of th water out each year and the freezing temps might kill off anything growing inside. I'll probably have to clean them someday, in which case I might drill out a cleanout hole in each barrel rather than disassembling everything.

[@AntokenAko]

So I am having problem water not going into the barrel.

[@halcee9215]

Great video Ben! Wanted to know if I make the fill tube higher than the barrel, will the air tube vent act as a drain? Thanks

[@BenBrandt22]

Yes I believe so. A higher fill tube would make the water level higher than the air vent tubes, so excess water would drain out the vent tubes.

[@Bscott-390]

How long up in the barrel do the vent pipes need to be?

[@phuocminhbui]

i love it. thanks

[@BenBrandt22]

👍

[@ssss-lw4gn]

so does it not freeze in the winter?

[@BenBrandt22]

I drain it every year before it gets cold enough to freeze

[@grasscutter1963]

Nice!

[@thotran3393]

Hi Ben, thanks for the awesome video/project.. Can you tell me if the vent tubes the same size as the pipe to the spigot? If so, do you know what's size? And what size the the pvc pipe for your fill line? Thanks

[@BenBrandt22]

Thanks! The vent tubes are smaller, maybe 1/2" or 3/4" ...I just sized them to match the hole/thread in the caps. As for the fill line... I think it was 1 1/2" but again, I just matched it to the fitting that fit in the threaded hole on the barrel.

[@thotran3393]

Thank you so much Ben..

[@hungsam4407]

Hi Ben Can you show me how do you put 2 of the fitting to connected the vent tub.Thanks

[@btson6134]

awesome vid but need to be more clear on the fill tube and filter

[@dalevandenbussche5004]

Were did you find the barrels?

[@josepeixoto3384]

Why bottom fill?

[@dnhman]

Very clever thanks for sharing! What is the length of the vent pipe?

[@BenBrandt22]

Thanks. I don't recall the exact length, I just made it slightly shorter than the inside height of the drum.

[@adambrunk10]

How do the threads on the inside of the bung caps work to install said vent pipes

[@itsjiraheta]

I got to say this is a really clean set up. Not only it eliminates the whole mosquito problem but it also eliminates having debri at the bottom of the barrels. Have you cleaned the barrels after you have set up your system? do you have anything come in through the vent pipe? any type of animal or insect? I would cover the bottom with mesh just to make it insect proof.

[@BenBrandt22]

I can't really see into the barrels very well nor clean them out (a drawback of my setup). I've cleaned out the pipe that runs along the bottom a couple times as it can collect dirt, but overall it's worked out fairly well.

[@marcipiper8438]

Ben Brandt How did you go about cleaning out the pipes. With the way you sealed everything?

[@kongfuzi1644]

I've been wanting to build your setup for some time now. What are the dimensions of the stand? And do you have a method to clean out the barrels?

[@BenBrandt22]

Since I assume that barrel dimensions might vary, I would just say to build your stand slightly bigger than the barrel diameter so they have one or two inches of clearance. As for cleaning them out, since I glued the PVC pipes together it makes it really difficult to take things apart, so I honestly have never done it and the water seems clean enough when it comes out. I do empty it every winter and the cold probably kills anything in the barrels, so maybe that helps?

[@jamesle4118]

Ben Brandt I am just wondering if we can connect all barrels together without having to clue them?

[@MSmith-od7du]

Do you have a a materials list?

[@Randy2747]

Hey Ben, I got around to making my rain barrel setup and now that I have it all together I have a question for you.... As the water level rises in the barrels does the weight of the water push back to the rain diverter and causing it not to fill up completely? I am a bit concerned about filling from the bottom and wondering if I should change my set up to fill from the top? Has your barrels ever filled completely up? s1313.photobucket.com/user/Randy2747/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20150811_173735_zpsiysbovun.jpg.html

[@BenBrandt22]

Randy E Based on your photo, it looks like your diverter might be a little too high. My barrels have never filled up to the very top, because my diverter overflow is a little lower than the vent pipes, so any overflow goes down the downspout... never had water come out the vent pipes. They have filled up as high as they can, but there's always a couple inches of empty space at the top of each barrel.

[@Randy2747]

I'm shocked that with the weigh of the water from all four barrels doesn't push it back up the fill tube... But as long as your barrels fill up mine will as well :-).. I actually have the 2" pipe (in the rain inverter) about half inch lower then top of the barrels. I might have to adjust it some soni didn't glue that pipe in yet... Thank you very much for all of your help and your videos my friend it helped me :-)

[@rarafuse]

What size pipe did you use?

[@edfritz]

The main fill line and adapters are 2-inch. The air vents are 3/4-inch pipe and adapters.

[@rarafuse]

@@edfritz I used 1 1/2 inch, works fine.

[@Bscott-390]

Did you have to use tape at the fittings in the barrels. ?

[@BenBrandt22]

I assume you're referring to Teflon tape for the threads? If so, that's probably a good idea, but I honestly don't remember if I did that with mine.

[@Bscott-390]

@@BenBrandt22 Thanks man. Did you have any problems with leaking around the threads?

[@Guitarzan8]

@@Bscott-390 I was wondering the same thing. Since it's plastic male thread against plastic female thread, as long as the barrel plug is screwed in at just the right tightness it probably seals it good enough. But I'd really like to see a follow up of every piece of the system. It's very interesting and helps me with my rain collection system!

[@justinedalegelbolinga]

What size are the rain barrels you use?

[@rubycarpenterrub9471]

How does the rain barrel fill from the bottom?

[@BenBrandt22]

Can you be more specific? This was explained in the video, so if there's something more you'd like to know please reply.

[@thomaskn1012]

What is the pipe size for the larger pipe? Is it 1-1/4 inch?

[@edfritz]

2-inch...although, once you get the 2" threaded adapter attached, you can add a size reducer and convert down to 1.5".

[@TRPGpilot]

Detailed video but this is overly complex for the simple collection of rainwater in a simple plastic barrel. I fail to see what problem it is actually resolving.

[@dwighthoward8131]

What size male threaded pvc adapter did you get for this? And it is for the fine thread side correct?

[@BenBrandt22]

I don;t remember the specific size. Since it could vary from one barrel to another, I'd recommend bringing the cap to the store with you, and find a fitting that matches.

[@edfritz]

For the large opening use 2-inch threaded adapters. For the air vent, you'll use 3/4" threaded adapters. You can reduce the 2-inch fitting with a reducer to get to 1.5", but I wouldn't recommend smaller than that for the fill line.