Using a Touch Probe with TouchDRO

[@theromihs]

Your metal finishing processes are yield amazing results. That handle looks fantastic. Thanks for yet another very informative video.

[@Preso58]

Thanks. I really like doing the metal finishing processes. To me, it seems like the "last step" in the build. Also, I hate rust and that's mostly what I get if I leave steel in it's natural state in my workshop. Regards, Mark

[@DavidWalling]

This is awesome. You've just about sold me on upgrading to the touchDRO.

[@Preso58]

It works for me. Regards, Mark

[@GeoffTV2]

Great video thank you. I have a Touch DRO on my mill, so now I'm thinking about one of those probes too. Love the clip of the roos at the end. An animal that gets around by bouncing just doesn't get old.

[@Preso58]

Thanks. I used that probe today to find the centre of a 3/16" half pocket in the end of a steam engine cylinder. It's about the only too that I have that could get inside the perimeter of the opening. It worked great! Regards, Mark

[@FredFred-wy9jw]

I’ve been using touch DRO for about 4 years… it’s great … I highly recommend it to anyone putting scales on a mill or lathe

[@bergman1218]

I got one about 6 months ago still figuring out how to use it. I never used a dro before wish there was more videos on it.

[@rexmyers991]

Your quest for perfection is inspiring.

[@thehobbymachinistnz]

Good overview on the different types of edge finders Mark. When you were a tenth of a mill out I immediately thought that there was something (swarf, dirt etc.) that was causing the issue. Good that you found it. Also, nice work on the handle. My mill has two modes, a handle like a drill press, and a hand wheel that moves the quill around 2mm per revolution. I have removed the handle and I use the hand wheel as it is more accurate.

[@Preso58]

I now blow out the collet and the bore of the spindle before mounting the probe. I have a bad habit of leaving collets lying on the tray beside the mill vice. I usually wipe them down with my hand on the outside but there was probably a chip in the bore of the collet. I love the quick set quill handle. I should have made one years ago. Regards, Mark

[@Crusher9mil]

Excellent video. Some years ago I acquired a Burke Millrite which has about ~0.0025 backlash in X & Y and has always drove me nuts. I thought about a ball screw conversion but couldn't justify the expense. Then I came across TouchDRO when I was installing mag scales and I quickly purchased it. Touch DRO has literally changed my world when using my mill and I highly recommend it, best money I've ever spent on my home shop equipment/tooling . Next I'm planning to do the same setup for my 1937 16" Series N Southbend lathe.

[@Preso58]

I had a sort of crisis of confidence when I first started using TouchDRO with the iGaging capacitive scales that I first installed on my Bridgeport. The capacitive scales just weren't reliable enough and I found myself going back to using the micrometer dials. Of course, that sucked big time because I also had some considerable backlash in the X and Y axes. However I bit the bullet and swapped over to glass scales and I haven't looked back. I can use it all day and I never have an issue. It seems a bit nerdy but I like that. Regards, Mark

[@Crusher9mil]

@@Preso58 I'm using iGaging scales and I to had some issues. I found it to be bad grounding at the scales. I had to clean paint of the mounting hardware brackets and ensure a good ground from the head all the way thru the machine to ground. 👌🏻

[@fna-wrightengineering]

Fantastic result with the handle, Mark! The finish came out great, and now you've got an awesome handle that'll last forever, and makes machining that much more fun. One of those quality-of-life improvements that makes one think, "Why didn't I do this sooner?!" Great demonstration of the touch probe. You're lucky... Mine didn't arrive nearly as concentric as yours did. It's pretty fiddly to get dialed in, but has seemed to hold concentricity pretty well since. I've found it to be another great quality-of-life improvement, and I can't wait until Yuriy adds Z-probing to the app, which will bring the tool library into play (and make things even easier!). I've suggested putting QR codes on the tools, and using the front-facing camera to scan the tool and automatically apply the offsets.

[@Preso58]

I guess I got lucky with that probe. The first one I bought for the Sieg X3 mill was out a bit but I got it dialled in after a lot of messing about. The little locking screws are very finicky. I think I have finally got the work flow for anodising sorted out. The "secret sauce" is to rinse the part way more than you think is necessary, especially if it has threaded holes. They tend to retain oil, contaminants and acid from the anodising bath and all of those things can ruin the dye step. Regards, Mark

[@mhc6777]

Thanks for the demo Mark, I'm not in the market for a Touch Probe or TouchDRO but it's good to see what I'm missing out on. :) Good to see someone else has made a Stefan design low profile TDI holder - I'm really happy with mine.

[@Preso58]

I do like my Stefan style DTI holder. It's so much easier to see the face of the dial as you spin it around and it is rock solid. The Indicol style is possibly more versatile but it's easy to bump it and change the position of the stylus. Regards, Mark

[@TheAyrCaveShop]

G'day Mark, that touch probe is a nice addition the the touch DRO 👍 My Bridgeport came with the commercial version of the quick adjust quill handle that works quite well but I use the steering wheel most of the time. Enjoyed, Cheers.....

[@Preso58]

Thanks Dean. I tried to buy a quick adjust quill handle but nothing came up in my searches for items outside the USA. That's usually the case for anything Bridgeport related. In any case the shop made version works great and I sort of take it for granted now but the first time I used it I realised how convenient it was. Regards, Mark

[@MattysWorkshop]

Gday Preso, the prob looks like a good unit and accurate, I find TouchDRO easy to navigate and for operations like setting up a bolt circle pattern is simple and having a visual on the screen just makes it that bit easier again, the new quill handle looks fantastic mate, cheers

[@Preso58]

Thanks Matty. I do like that quill handle. I sort of take it for granted now but it was a massive improvement on the stock Bridgeport version. I am using the touch probe more and more now that I trust it. Regards, Mark

[@onehot57]

What I have on my knee mill is an after market automotive steering wheel I love it. Thanks for a wonderful video. From NW Indiana USA

[@Preso58]

I thought about getting one of those. The other option was a three or four handled feed wheel like you see on a drill press. One of the issues with my mill is there are a lot of cables and air lines around that side of the mill head. The DRO, work lights, air lines and the probe connection wire all seem to get tangled if you aren't careful. The steering wheel idea would be the best option in that regard because it would be harder to get stuff tangled in it. However the upgraded feed handle does look nice and it seems to fit the aesthetic of the mill. Regards, Mark

[@MicksWorkshop]

That is really cool. You're really tempting me to change my mill DRO to the TouchDRO. I like it on the lathe, but the mill mode is so powerful.

[@Preso58]

Thanks. It has taken me a long time to trust TouchDRO. When I was using the capacitive scales I had a few cases where the reported position was wrong. Since fitting the glass scales it has been 100% reliable. I don't think I could go back to using micrometer dials and dealing with backlash! Regards, Mark

[@glennbarker222]

The birds seem to have a lot to say! Nice work, seems to be a really nice little tool.

[@randyshoquist7726]

Fadal CNCs can find the center of a circle with three touches. I love that feature even though it's only one touch less than the +X/-X/+Y/-Y method. But you can also find the center of a semicircle, or any arc, like the center of a corner radius. That might be handy, and seems like it could be handled by Touch DRO. My shop-built quill lever, and most commercial ones, disengage by pulling the lever outward, so there's no interference problem. But they sure ain't as pretty as yours. Nicely done.

[@Preso58]

Thank you. I have fallen in love with the parkerised finish on steel parts. It looks and feels lovely and it just doesn't rust in my workshop environment. I have been using the touch probe more and more now that I know I can trust it but the only downside is that I have to look after it. The old mechanical edge finders can be rolled around in the chips/coolant and they still work but the fancy schmancy electronic equivalents don't' like that sort of treatment. Regards, Mark

[@Steviegtr52]

I like the quill handle. I have the same issue with my Tom Senior mill. That would work. I would have to make the boss to accept the handle as mine works slightly different. Steve.

[@Preso58]

That quick set handle is so nice to use. Having to change the rotation position of the original Bridgeport handle was annoying and sometimes it got stuck. Once I smacked it back on so hard (in anger) that I popped the quill drive spindle out of it's housing and the little snap ring came off completely. It was at that point that I realised I needed something better. Regards, Mark

[@erniecamhan]

Love your channel 👍🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿

[@Preso58]

Glad you enjoy it! Regards, Mark

[@TechnoBillyD]

I added the same unit to my touch DRO over my xmas break and I love it. I would like to see what all the features in the pro version of touch DRO are, although as a hobbyist, the perscription model wouold not work for me.

[@Preso58]

I did ask Yuriy how he intends to roll out the plus version but so far he hasn't gotten back to me on that one. On his blog he is discussing a way of creating an income stream other than just from the sale of the bluetooth adapters. The plus version does have some added capability but a lot of it is sort of gimmicky. I think the regular version would do most of what I would need on a day to day basis. Regards, Mark

[@seabreezecoffeeroasters7994]

Cocky season in Victoria too, they have moved South from the Grain belt to the Beach for Summer Holidays. At least unlike the Possums they sleep at night. Had that same Electronic probe for a while now on my CNC and very happy with it overall.

[@bkoholliston]

Nice video! That little odd-size disk on the wiggler should be 0.100 inch in diameter or 2.54mm. I really prefer to use an indicator these days or a spring type edge finder, but other than for picking up a center punch mark with the pointy tip, I don't use the wiggler at all.

[@Preso58]

I like to use the wiggler if I have to reach down over a large diameter part lying with the axis parallel to the table. Even if you cannot see the ball end you can still see when it kicks out. However, each of the tools has it's place. It's just nice to have options. Regards, Mark

[@dagorithe]

4:46 the one similar I used in my adult education class was 1/4” (0.250). I learned to use leading zeros in computer science class.

[@crazytrutas]

Great one mate. 🧐

[@Radiotexas]

I'm going to have to bite the bullet and switch to TouchDRO! Thanks, mate!

[@Preso58]

It works for me. However I am a geek at heart and I prefer a graphical interface. Regards, Mark

[@kerringalvin1240]

Hey Mark, Another great video, Touch DRO sure looks to be feature rich….. if / when my DRO screen packs up it will sure be on the list. For your mill handle, a great update btw, for the grub screw ball bearing detent did you know that you can get spring loaded ball bearing set screws? Neither did I until I was watch a build on KZbin, Cheers Kerrin

[@Preso58]

Kerrin, I do like TouchDRO. I only use about 20% of the features but it is versatile and easy to use if you are a graphical learner like me. I thought about buying one of those ball tipped grub screws but I would have to wait forever to get it and I had the Teflon and the correct sized ball on hand. So far it has worked flawlessly and you can always squish it down a bit more if the Teflon loses it's shape a bit. Regards, Mark

[@joell439]

Nice handle 👍👍👍👍

[@darrelljones7879]

Don’t see any other comments about this but did anyone else notice the size of the spider at 13:04? It’s on the support tube for the Touch DRO up by the electrical tie. Mark, I could see fingers getting closer to it as you talked about the printed box for the small circuit board. 😳

[@Preso58]

Hey, you have good eyes. I had to go back and watch that several times before I could see it. I think it's a baby huntsman spider. They are harmless but the adults can be as big as your hand. Regards, Mark

[@TheWrate]

Hmmm I might have to grab the touch probe from my CNC router (where it never gets used!) and give it a whirl on my Touch DRO setup. Thanks Mark!

[@Preso58]

I didn't have time to show some of the other tools that TouchDRO has for the touch probe. I am probably only using about 20% of what it can do. Regards, Mark

[@rufustoad1]

Hi Mark, I am looking to purchase a Bridgeport and believe I might have found one but I have a few questions I was hoping you could help with. I am looking at Touch DRO and wonder how feel about it after so many months of use and do you think it is user friendly? Did you ever estimate what kind of money you have in converting this to a cnc? What color is that paint you used on this mill? I love that antique looking green.

[@Preso58]

I do like TouchDRO but I made a mistake in starting off with capacitive scales. I considered them to be a cheap option but they aren't as reliable as glass scales. I ended up replacing all my iGaging capacitive scales with Sino 5 micron glass scales and I now have complete confidence in the accuracy and reliability of the machine. I like the option to sum together the two Z axis scales. I have a scale on the quill and on the knee and both read together to give a total Z readout. I also like the option to use the touch probe. It is capable of doing more than the regular rotary probe although I do use both. I probably only use about half the capability of TouchDRO but it does everything I want. The unused features are probably the tool library and the tachometer function although I have a hall effect sensor which would enable the tachometer. My Bridgeport has the speed indicator anyway so I don't really need anything else. However, If you do enable the tachometer you can get real time readout of chip load per tooth on your cutters. The way I have it set up, you can also see real time feed rates for the auto feed in X and Z. I haven't considered converting the Bridgeport to CNC (I already have a Sieg X3 converted to CNC). The green colour was mixed for me by a local paint shop. I just took the small side door down to the shop and they colour matched what was already on the machine. It had been painted by someone else before I purchased it and they had used a brush and hadn't done a very good job but I liked the colour. I still have some of the paint but it doesn't have a standard colour profile labelled on the can. I was able to buy a powdercoat that is very similar. It's a Prismatic Powder product called Shrek Green www.prismaticpowders.com/search/shrek-green? Regards, Mark

[@rufustoad1]

@@Preso58 Hi Mark, I don't mean to keep hounding you but I have decided to purchase the Bridgeport I have been looking at and I am just wondering if you have seen any issues with concrete under your machine?? I am sure the concrete was not poured in thoughts of putting a heavy piece of machinery on it and wonder if you have seen any cracking or issues? I am just over 4" thick on mine and would think 2000lbs would not be a huge issue but not sure.

[@chrispoirier384]

You had the opportunity to remove the probe tip runout of 10um. Then found off center of 20um, tram th head, tram the vise, adjust out the probe runout, then recheck. I think you might find improvement.

[@Preso58]

I am sure there are improvements to be had. My issue is that my Bridgeport has some wear in the ways and in the lead screws and nuts. I can see the digital readout change when I tighten up the locks on the table and saddle and I have some backlash in the X axis in particular. For the work that I do, 10 microns is good. Regards, Mark

[@CothranMike]

The correct method of employment for a probe which is red in contact and green when freed of touch is place the probe in contact then move it off?

[@Preso58]

In the TouchDRO app, you can set up the probe so that it registers the contact point after a single touch, or two or three. I have mine set up for three touch points and the app averages all three. On the third touch off the app stores the position and you can move the probe off the workpiece and then set the origin. It takes some getting used to but you don't need to hold the probe tip on the workpiece when setting the edge or centre location. Regards, Mark

[@actinaria1]

Nice video Marc. I ordered the same touch pro that you have but when I hooked it up to my touch DRO, it is giving me an error. It thinks that the probe is still triggered. I am working with Yuriy on it. Which pin did you hook up the trigger wire to, Q or P? What are your settings set to in the app? I appreciate it much.

[@Preso58]

There are three pins on the TouchDRO board for ground, V+ and signal. The pinout diagram for the TouchDRO board is here www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/rarl25e2xclx8m7gktmo0/Pinout-diagram.JPG?rlkey=pjo3qty8uugmng3irxcybn4cp&dl=0 The probe signal wire is yellow on my probe, red for V+ and black for ground. My settings are here www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/ou9w9ejoygrquko9mi6s5/PXL_20240227_233137605.jpg?rlkey=b00m1lpmgafbdzmjcsl6ok3si&dl=0 The LED should be green in the untriggered state and red when triggered. There is a setting on the probe page that inverts the signal. If the LED light changes when you touch the probe it is working. If not it may be damaged inside? Regards, Mark

[@DK-vx1zc]

P or Q will work, just make sure you use proper input axis prefix setting in probe settings

[@mfx1]

Why not use a ball spring point screw that are made exactly for this ?

[@Preso58]

I would have to order a screw like that and it would take weeks to get to me. There are very few specialist hardware suppliers here where I live so often times it's easier to just make it yourself. Regards, Mark

[@npalen]

No need to run a conventional edge finder in a collet rather than a jacobs chuck as the runout does not affect the reading accuracy. Its relative to the spindle rotation axis.

[@Preso58]

I wondered about that too but my understanding was that if a conventional edge finder is orbiting around the true spindle axis it will make contact with the part at a point which is off centre to the true axis. For the wiggler style edge finder, it has a ball joint so it can account for misalignment. I mostly have that edge finder always sitting in a R8 collet anyway. Regards, Mark

[@douglasbollinger8678]

​@@Preso58It's very easy to test this with a Jacob's chuck and some shim stock at the chuck jaws holding the edge finder for ludicrous run out.

[@Rustinox]

I'm sure if you get more used to the probe you will have very consistent results. The touch dro sur is a nice tool. And no, don't shoot the birds.

[@Preso58]

I have been using the little touch probe quite a lot on my latest project and I am learning to trust it more and more. The only drawback is that it is quite delicate compared to my spring centre finder. It suffers a lot of abuse and still works well. What I didn't show in the video is the tools that TouchDRO has for digitising parts. We thought the noisy birds had gone away but they were back today. We cannot even squirt them with water. They seem to know just how far they need to be to be out of range. We are making a Flemish stew and waffles for some dinner guests on the weekend. I just need to find some nice Tripel beer. Regards, Mark

[@marianodiaz461]

Hi Mike, the wobbler at 4.15 is quite dangerous if you for example forget that the spindle speed was set at high Rpm , ( from a previous operation) Because of the bottom half is quite heavy. ( Compared to the standard wobbler) the bottom will separate and with the spring still attached will cut and maim anything on its path. My solution is to fit a piece of 3/32 Tig welding rod big enough to go thru both parts in the wobbler , fit this rod inside the spring , that way it won't come out at high speed..H.T.H.

[@Preso58]

Ha, funny you should mention that. I destroyed the spring in my edge finder when I forgot to check the spindle speed before starting the mill. It did exactly what you described and although I was able to dismantle it to remove the now comically distorted spring, the vendor that I purchased it from could not supply a replacement. I ended up buying ten new springs from a Chinese supplier and they work just fine. Unfortunately, you cannot adjust the speed of the Bridgeport spindle while it is stationary and I found out the hard way that it all ends in tears if you get it wrong. Thanks for the tip. Regards, Mark

[@marianodiaz461]

@@Preso58 hi Mike , like I mentioned it's very dangerous when the spring is still attached and the bottom part is still flying around , I think that it's worth a warning with a demo of how to do the mod to the wider audience.. Kind regards Mariano

[@lawrenceessard4086]

A little dab of lock tite on landing gear screws may be helpful. 😊😊😊😊

[@wilkbilt]

could you do a video on your touch probe on your cnc machine and how it works and connects?

[@Preso58]

If it comes up in another project I will do that. I use UCCNC software and a C11G breakout board and it has pins for a probe connection. It was a simple matter to connect the probe and configure it. I gave up trying to use Mach3 and Mach4. It just seemed to complex but UCCNC was way easier. It has two pages of probing functions and they are relatively easy to configure and use. Regards, Mark

[@wilkbilt]

thank you@@Preso58

[@irritantno9]

What happens when you absentmindedly drive the probe into your work hard? I bought one of those electronic edge probes from general and accidentally did this now it’s not so accurate 😢. I’m afraid that I’d do this again

[@Preso58]

Yes, you do need to be "situationally aware" when using the electronic probes. I treat mine as if it were made of crystal and you cannot just throw it down amongst the chips and coolant either. I have made dedicated storage points for both the digital probes I use. You can buy replacement probe tips if your old one is bent. If it's damaged internally you can dismantle them and try to look for bent components inside but that's probably the sort of work a watchmaker would do. Regards, Mark

[@cm9779]

Cheers from Virginia Beach.

[@bmalovic]

Hi Mark, nice gadget, "good enough" for most of the work if you ask me :) At 10:07 "stylus tip is 2mm in diameter", but in TDRO it si set to 1.9mm? At first I was thinking that this is the reason for 0.1mm difference betweeen probe and indicator

[@Preso58]

I have the same touch probe on my Sieg CNC milling machine and the software (UCCNC) has a probing function that allows you to probe a ring gauge of known size and then calibrate the "virtual probe tip diameter" to give the correct offsets. I had to set the probe tip diameter to almost the same size and I think it is to do with inertia and latency in the probe mechanism. I set the size of 1.9mm in TouchDRO after doing a lot of tests with 123 blocks and mechanical indicators to validate that size. It seems counterintuitive to set the probe tip to less than 2mm but that's the size that gives me the lowest error on simple edge finding. For centre finding it doesn't matter what size you set for the probe tip diameter. You can set a size of 0mm and it will still find an accurate centre. Regards, Mark

[@bmalovic]

@@Preso58 I should stop commenting early in the morning, after 10 hours of work. Little grey cells do not work well in this conditions 😃 Of course.. for center finding tip diameter does not metter.

[@rayhosking3927]

Cute! Mum hasn't moved a muscle, joey bouncing around all over the place! Just installed TouchDRO, still learning too, may invest in the probe, Question Mark, how does the magic probe know that you touch off exactly in the centre side to side and front to back or does it do some wozz bang math to compensate?

[@Preso58]

The TouchDRO app uses both the direction of the scale and the signal from the probe to know whether you are probing a centre or an edge. The magic wand button automates this even further but I don't know how it does it. It is quite clever but it takes some getting used to. Regards, Mark

[@robertginther9248]

You missed the two most accurate finders: 1 Coaxial finder 2 Haimer: the BEST/MOST ACCURATE finder. I love both my coaxial & Haimer, but the Haimer is fool proof, as you move .100 beyond touch so there is no mistake whether you stopped +/_ of touch. It's indicated on the jeweled dial. Your probe still relies on co-ordinating movement stop & light seen. For those of us that must be spot on, the Haimer is a God send.

[@Preso58]

Yes, I would love to have a Haimer and a coax finder but I only showed the tools that I had. I don't have enough tools 🙄 Regards, Mark

[@dazaspc]

If you want truly repeatable performance with that type of probe in a spindle you really need to key it rotation wise to ensure it it probes in the same plane every time. That way if there is a mechanical error in it's activation it is repeated every time. Even when using Decent Renishaw units that were wireless without using an M19 repeatability was not as good. Also when using your other indicators to check its accuracy you really should position EVERY axis in the same location. This includes the Quill as its position in relation to the center can be affected by the set of the universal head on your Bridgeport. It doesn't take much angularity wise to throw of a location by 0.010mm if there is a change of the mount point of rotation height above the diameter tested. Not bad though considering it's cost. With a bit more software you could use it as a Manual CMM.

[@Preso58]

I had been in contact with Yuriy (The TouchDRO guy) and he outlined a procedure for checking the accuracy of a touch probe and he mentioned the need to clock the probe in the same orientation each time and also a procedure for validating the accuracy with respect to the spindle orientation. At the end of the day, if I can get 10 to 20 microns of repeatable error I think I would be happy with that. My mill is old and the ways are worn so even if I clock the part to zero tolerance, as soon as I start to machine the part, things start to move around. Regards, Mark

[@DK-vx1zc]

So after calibration/adjustment of the probe, one needs to mark the collet, touch probe shaft relative to each other, so the alignment to spindle remains very close...I assume ?? Meaning, there is runout in every thing. if you pull the collet out of the holder, and probe from collet, all alignment/registration is lost.. I am considering a dedicated endmill holder, leaving touch probe permanently installed.. My mill is NMTB 40 with few tenths runout..

[@theoriginalDirtybill]

my 1980 ENCO Bridgeport clone came with type of quill handle. i thought they were the norm....

[@Preso58]

I do know that there are aftermarket versions of the quick set quill handle available, just not in Australia. 🙄 Regards, Mark

[@theoriginalDirtybill]

@@Preso58 i can imagine with shipping it would be cost prohibitive, they arent cheap here in the states, and the import stuff most likely wouldnt fit a genuine bridgeport. my enco is a mix of imperial and metric. it was a royal pain sourcing parts to fit the knee power feed motor.

[@3goldfinger]

Have you downloaded the firmware and installed it your self, I'm having a hard time trying to install it on my ESP32.

[@Preso58]

I bought a preassembled and complete adapter from TouchDRO. It came as a plug and play device so I didn't have to install any firmware. You can check the forum archives www.yuriystoys.com/ which might help if you are configuring your own ESP32 Regards, Mark

[@DK-vx1zc]

Excellent!!

[@rickswanberg4995]

Would you be willing to share (sell) your plans for the quill handle?

[@Preso58]

Sure. You can download the PDF of the 2D drawings here. It's free. www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/70iganjkjkz92c20s7rgd/Quill-speed-handle-assembly.pdf?rlkey=kr2qqyt6910x44vul8vlh1twc&dl=0 However, the drawings may not be complete. I really only made them for myself so there may be some details missing. You should be able to work it out though. The little chain link is available on Ebay. I put the link in the drawing. You don't have to use it. You could just use a home made linkage to suit. Also, there is a spring required to return the handle to the locked position. I just went through my box of spare springs until I found one that suited. Please check your own machine to verify the dimensions. Regards, Mark

[@rickswanberg4995]

Thank you!@@Preso58

[@greggroos2271]

Thanks for the video, I subscribed back when I first watched your DIY demagnetizer, I use mine frequently. Possum: "can I borrow your gun?";)

[@Preso58]

I used my demag tool today. My Mitutoyo digital calliper was starting to pick up chips. I just sweep the tips of the jaws and problem solved. Scribers and centre punches seem to get magnetised quickly too but I am still amazed at how well that demag tool works. The cockatoos calmed down a bit because their young are now more or less independent. We saw one in the tree recently and it stayed put all day and the adults bought it food. Regards, Mark

[@Warped65er]

Thx for the vid.

[@Preso58]

You're welcome. Regards, Mark

[@paulcohen1555]

1. I like your presentation very much. 2. I like the nature life you are showing. 3. You MUST improve the sound quality.

[@Preso58]

Thanks for the feedback. Can you suggest how I would improve the sound quality? I am using DaVinci Resolve and a Sony Handycam HDR-CX625 camera. I have the camera set to stereo (not 5.1 surround) and I had the audio record level set to manual and at the lower end of the range. The Sony camera that I use doesn't have a lot of options for audio recording. I found that when I set the audio recording to auto, it tended to overcompensate during periods of quiet recording and it would pick up a lot of background noise. I generally lower the master volume in DaVinci before rendering so that it isn't clipping and after I upload the video to KZbin I assumed that they would process it to equalise the volume dynamic range. I am not really a "sound guy" and I usually review the audio using just desktop speakers. I know a lot of people use headphones and that can sometimes create issues with background noise and distortion. I am eager to learn though and I could do with some pointers. Regards, Mark

[@paulcohen1555]

@@Preso58 I am not a sound expert and don't know that equipment, but the first thing to do is to have an external mic close to your mouth. In addition, adjust the Automatic Level Control ALC of the camera/recorder. Your workshop is noisy and you must do something regarding sound quality.

[@paulcohen1555]

@@Preso58 Does the camera have an external mic input?

[@PatriotPainter]

It's super disappointing that TouchDRO no longer makes adapters for iGaging scales. I bought the iGaging scales because they were in my budget and they could be used with TouchDRO. After finally buying and installing them, TouchDRO discontinued the adapter for them. I should have just saved up longer for glass scales.

[@Preso58]

I could be wrong, but I believe you can re write the firmware on the adapters for different scales. I recall reading that you can go the other way around, that is, convert an adapter for capacitive scales to glass scales. I just checked on the TouchDRO store website and you are correct. As of a couple of weeks ago, there was an adapter for mixed scales. Maybe, Yuriy is looking to simplify the range of adapters that he is offering. Check this link www.yuriystoys.com/search/label/DIY%20DRO%20Encoder%20Hardware Regards, Mark

[@dagorithe]

34:27 o love that red

[@backyardbasher]

TouchDRO have changed the versions they sell and no longer sell one with micro USB inputs, I was looking to buy one when I get paid next month but wont be now.

[@Preso58]

I noticed that. I stopped by the website today and Yuriy has narrowed the range of options to just two. For what it's worth though, I would just buy the adapter for glass scales. I should have done that right from the start. It was the more expensive option but I don't regret it. Regards, Mark

[@ShaunChurchill-t6o]

Sticky pin?

[@Preso58]

I have heard them called that. I generally refer to them as wigglers. Regards, Mark

[@ShaunChurchill-t6o]

@@Preso58 sticky pin was blue tack with a pin that was stuck onto a concentric dowel pin held in a chuck and it acts like a wiggler / wobbler in operation.

[@Reiner_Markenfreund]

👍

[@grntitan1]

The audible edge finders were useless where I worked. Nobody including myself could hear it. Tinnitus is no joke.

[@Preso58]

I hadn't thought about that. Every day I seem to see online articles for "miracle" tinnitus cures. I am guessing it's all hype though. Regards, Mark

[@MyLilMule]

I wish he made an iOS version of this app and device, although I understand why he doesn't.

[@Preso58]

I wonder if it is anything to do with the way that Apple resents the notion of open source and third party apps? I've always been an Android/Google/Microsoft sort of guy and my only foray into Apple products was when I tried to connect a printer to my sisters Mac computer. It all ended in tears! Regards, Mark

[@MyLilMule]

​@@Preso58 I've been a Mac user for decades. I can't see myself owning anything else as a personal computer. I just upgraded my wife's and my computers, and aside from the actual data transfer, the migration of our old 10 year old Macs to these new ones took about 5 minutes of setup. Everything transferred to the new ones automatically, data, applications, documents ... everything. I've never seen a Windows machine do that. The thing with Apple is they are VERY cognisant of security vulnerabilities and every device that connects to one of theirs has to be secure. Same with the applications. They go through a rigorous certification process that can take months and isn't cheap. I had corresponded with Yuriy and this was his exact reasoning. It would drive the price of the device up too much.

[@StripeyType]

2.52mm is *VERY* close to 2.54mm, which is exactly 1/10". Maybe the twenty microns is for good luck or something. XD

[@chrisstephens6673]

That was my thought too. I fact I seem to remember measuring one donkeys years ago at 0,1 inch.

[@Preso58]

That makes sense. I will check it again. I did use a Mitutoyo 1-25mm micrometer and the digital calliper and both said the same. However, and I just thought of this, that tool was given to me by a relative who used to work for Sellars Atkins, a tool company in Adelaide. It could be that it was a tool that was returned because it was out of spec. Regards, Mark

[@dagorithe]

29:59 I thought that was your stomach. Maybe your wife wasn’t feeding you

[@dagorithe]

37:28 no Roos in Ohio. I’ve looked. They must be hiding with Big Foot.