Using Anderson Powerpole Connectors: AD #44

[@robertchiarizia9463]

That’s a relief. I could not figure out why I couldn’t find any male Anderson connectors.

[@markb3769]

Your channel is a goldmine of great info. Just getting back into the hobby after 5 year absence.

[@TeddyD802]

Thanks for the video - I was just at HRO today buying these , I have a few projects in mind for them. Thanks tor your videos on the extra class, just passed my test on Saturday, 73 - Ted

[@davecasler]

Hi Ted, welcome to Extra Class! I'm glad you found my videos helpful. 73, Dave

[@darthorpheus]

Ted D Congratulations, I passed on Saturday as well!

[@DonDegidio]

Dave, Excellent Powerpole video. The connector body has a letter "A" above the opening. Randy K7AGE came up with a nice mneumonic to remember the orientation "Red on right, read A". 73 WB3BJU

[@ah-fv8ds]

I remember it the same way, but using the old marine navigation rule, "red, right, return".

[@andreVE4BK]

Been using them for about a decade; I have a dedicated Powerpole toolbox. Always great when you nan plug your gear onto someone else’s equipment! Almost a standard in Ham Radio and emergency services these days. I use crazy glue instead of the “pin”. Great video David 👍

[@lyfandeth]

Wondering why my PowerPoles werenxt quite locking down, I'm SO GLAD you mentioned that you find the same problem when the wire insulation is fully inserted! Mystery solved. By the way, if you don't have the roll pins, a toothpick will lock the two together pretty nicely.

[@PaulaBean]

I learned the polarity with this alliteration: "Red on Right, Tongue on Top."

[@ryantoomey611]

@ 5:52, I usually like to put ring terminals on the end when using the screw terminals. If your power supply doesn't have powerpole connectors you can make a pigtail with anderson connectors on one end and ring terminals on the other end. Some screw terminals don't unscrew all the way and in this case you can use fork terminals instead.

[@MrTommy001]

I had to buy a set of these connectors in order to hook my 2m mobile to my new LiPo battery. Wish I'd seen your video before I fumbled through my first 'build'. 🤣 They ARE kind of a PITA, but worth it once they are built.

[@valko999]

Great video. Not to be picky, but never push the connectors with the cable - that bends the cable and shortens the life of the cable. Get a small flat head screwdriver and push on the metal contact instead until it clicks in place inside the plastic housing.

[@dickjohnson3343]

Dave, I find that with 18 AWG wire used on some equipment it is helpful to have the little tool that will help install the connectors in the housing. It is sold by PowerWerx and I'm sure others.

[@tpobrienjr]

Good explanation and demo, Dave. I use very small zip ties to hold the two together, some people use CA glue. My reasoning is that if for some reason the polarity isn't right, the zip tie can be defeated. The Anderson Powerpole standard used by ARES is much better than the previous Molex standard, IMO.

[@philipmilazzo]

Good information Dave. I’ve put Powerpoles on all of my DC cables in my shack and my mobile. My motivation was ARES/RACES commonality. I chose the already-bonded-pair variety of the shell. No roll pin is needed and-for that reason-it accommodates the security clip when joining two shells. The Tri-Crimp tool was worth the cost. The “wire end” of the 30-amp insert is round and sometimes fights with nominal 12 AWG wire. The 45-amp inserts are U-shaped. Wire insertion is much easier and it still tightly grabs 12 AWG wire when crimped.

[@brianknox7527]

Dave. Thanks for the vid. Watched it when it first came out, but didnt have any power pole projects. Came back today as a refresher. Radio and 4 jumpers down. Thanks again. KK4BK

[@TJackSurvival]

You sir have some great videos. I just subscribed. KZbin sucks when it comes to Ham radio but your stuff is great. Thanks.

[@pauladams5564]

Great video a David - I've never used these connectors before. Still in the dark ages I guess. Getting ready to order some now that I know how they work. PS - I was at the table with you and your wife at the Duke City hamfest. Very nice to meet you both.

[@davecasler]

Thank you. It was nice to meet you too.

[@aaronbuster1989]

Another site had this rhyme: Right Red, Tab Top. So with the red connector on the right, the metal tap should be on the top.

[@michaeledmonds3027]

Yet another great video! Finally a well presented tutorial on these ham radio connectors. Thanks Dave

[@roethle]

Very informative, I just learned about these and I was very confused, thank you!

[@tglenn3121]

Thanks for the video. I've recently heard of these connectors but wasn't sure how they work. Your video really convinced me to use them.

[@JDHood]

If desired, instead of the locking pins, you can use weed-trimmer string with the diameter that snugly fits the hole to lock the connectors together.

[@dcw515]

Dave, Your explanation video is the BEST out there thank you sir.

[@Bass-guitarist]

Great video Dave, here in the U.K. APP connectors are known but not that popular. Thx for clarifying their benefits. De M0KTY.

[@G0USL]

I've used powerpoles for about 10 years, I've always soldered them. I didn't know about the few mm of exposed wire in the plug!! All my connectors sit onto the insulation! One other thing, If you use end fed wire antennas in the field, powerpole connectors are ideal for connections to transformers etc

[@bobconlin5413]

Best video I have seen on this topic

[@DanielBartholomew]

Excellent video, thank you!

[@VNeshyba]

Good job explaining and demonstrating the PP connectors ! Question: What is the name, model #, etc and source for the wire stripper? Thanks.

[@davecasler]

Do a Google search on "wire stripper." You'll see several that look just like mine for not very much money. 73

[@vkauffman4881]

Excellent explanation and detailed video. I've seen a few of these and this was the best by a long shot. Thanks!!

[@chriscoop]

Great video, as always!

[@joosepgeorg]

Now I Want Those On All My Equipment 🤪😀

[@jeffcotton526]

The binding posts on the back of the power supply will take standard 4mm banana plugs too, that is what I did with my Alinco DM-430T power supply to my IC-7300 power harness with the Anderson connectors attached.

[@davecasler]

Thanks for the tip.

[@timothystockman7533]

Powerpoles come in colors other than Black and Red. I have seen normal Green advertised as Ground connectors, but Anderson makes a special two special Green ground connector, which have two special features that normal green powerpoles don't have: 1. Mate first/break last. A true ground powerpole mates before any other conductors. 2. Will not intermate with normal powerpoles to ensure the ground wire is mating with a ground. One variety of green does this with a little keying feature in the corner, the other uses male and female round contacts. I think the first variety could be used to make hermaphrodic connectors, the second variety of course has a gender. I have never seen these special green ground powerpole housings for sale, but I would someday like to get a few for evaluation. BTW - I am using Gray/Black vertical powerpoles for speaker connections. I configure them vertical, so they will not intermate with normal horizontal Red/Black power connections, and their color, or lack thereof, makes them easy to identify at a glance. Unfortunately vertical powerpoles have a "gender", so cables have definite "amp" and "speaker" ends. Powerpole speaker connectors work great not only in the shack, but for car stereo (everything from tweeters to subwoofers) and home theater. They are both small an beefy.

[@lanacionpipil8680]

Thank you. Now, I know how to work with Powerpole connectors.

[@littlethislittlethat456]

Thanks for this video. John

[@62chevrolet]

Thank you Dave

[@TMS5100]

Not a fan of powerpoles _AT ALL_. They are a clever design but they are the #1 connector I see failures with. When they fail it's because they are loose. It seems nearly impossible to crimp them to get a really solid connection on the blades. They are always making just "meh" connections. If the blades had a more extreme angle and more spring, they would be a lot better. When I want a solid reliable connection I use XT connectors. The connectors mate up extremely firm with a lot of friction and are almost impossible to pull apart by accident, like what happens with powerpoles. A pity XT connectors aren't genderless, but they are 100% reliable.

[@garychap8384]

I've never really understood the point of genderless, for power connections at least. Do we really want to lose track in a maze of connections... perhaps grab the wrong set of poles, and accidentally bridge supplies? IMO there's simply no good reason for it. Of course, powerpoles are designed for industrial systems - to be used in blocks, with a mix of of early mate/break and late make/break, special keying and spacing choices, and the ability to further rotate for additional keying (like T-connectors) ... I do like that you can take two connectors, lets say nice blue ones... for audio or switches and side-mount them 180 degrees out, so that the pairs always mate together first time. If only USB connectors were like that. For some reason my first guess is always wrong : )

[@paulplack490]

ms3bani: ...and yet, they've become the standard. So the decision becomes, do I enjoy better connections which prevent me from being able to use my radio on someone else's power supply, or go with Anderson and have the flexibility? Sadly, we can't have both unless we build two-headed power cables..

[@TMS5100]

@@paulplack490 i choose reliability, so i choose XT. powerpoles are the harbor freight of connectors. leeching off someone else's power supply has never been even the remotest consideration for me ever, and i would never sacrifice reliability for such a scenario. i cut off powerpoles from anything I buy and replace them with XT.

[@stephaniestephanie1290]

I'm confused. So does the crimper need to be one that is advertised as crimping for powerpole connections specifically?

[@callapygian]

can Anderson PP connectors be assembled both ways? By that i mean vertically stacked or horizontally arranged like you dud in the video.

[@hogo118]

So as I understand it, there isn't a way to isolate and protect the two power (+/-) posts coming off of the power supply? Anderson power poles are only for the rig side? Thanks.

[@glenmartin2437]

Works neatly. No need to mark polarity either. Thanks. N0QFT

[@Littlelewie151]

I have a set of Anderson double connectors on my snow plow that almost take up the palm of my hand.

[@deenunya7735]

For a Amatuer Radio Op ,it was a Amatuer Vid, What Radio Ham Puts Bare Wires around Power Posts, You never Mentiond Fitting Electrical Loop or Horse Shoe Fittings to go on the Posts, or even Bananna Plugs

[@lyfandeth]

Anderson does also make a flimsy lock that plugs into the roll pin sockets on both connectors, to "lock" a pair together, fwiw.

[@Get_er_Done_389]

Dave, I need to connect a 12 guage wire to a 10 guage wire. Would this connector work? And would that be possible to do with 2 different guage wire? If you have a video on this can you link it or maybe do one? I need to do this as soon as possible. PS: I am a 35 year old, and u love learning from an old timer like yourself! Keep up the great work! Thank you sir!

[@joelmcallister9248]

Wonderful, thanks for posting.

[@Veetheoneandonly]

I've watched #44 on Anderson PowerPoles several times. I notice that you use copper zip cable (red and black 14 gauge) supplied by BulkWire. There are other brands that use tinned copper wire in their zip cable. There isn't a lot of difference in cost. They say the advantage of tinned copper is that it is better in wet or humid environments and it also solders better than copper wire because of the tinned surface. Anderson PowerPole connectors are not normally soldered. So, I'd like to see what you think about stranded copper wire vs stranded tinned copper wire. I'm ready to buy some and want to get the right kind. I may not use Anderson PowerPoles for all the connections because of the expense of the tools. Still thinking about that. But I do want to buy a spool of 14 gauge ZIP wire. This is an old video, hope you see my question. I really enjoy your videos and website. Vee Butterfield W7IBB, Taylorsville, Utah

[@ETWL897]

Just a FYI.... Power werx and bulkwire.com are the same company. look at their page for that wire.. they are the same except one uses blue and one uses red as their main color for buttons and such. Both have the same price and are located at 23695 Via Del Rio Yorba Linda, CA 92887. Figured you might want to know.

[@BryanTorok]

After 30 years in Ham Radio, Amateur Extra, and a BSEET degree, I finally understand Anderson Powerpole connectors. Great presentation. I'm just afraid that in this social warrior climate, some group is going to cancel culture the Dave or the folks that make that tool kit. That has been on my list for a while. I better get it ordered while I can.

[@TonyLing]

PowerPole connectors are gender neutral, I think Dave is safe on this topic, even in the current censorious climate.

[@BryanTorok]

@@TonyLing LOL!

[@nirmalmahrra2207]

can anderson powerpole connector can be use to connect single 45amp wire to extend the earth in shower pull switch?

[@Jim-mn7yq]

Very good video, Dave.

[@Sylvan_dB]

Red on the left is completely wrong for anyone accustomed to dealing with stereo audio! Red is right. Simply look in the end of the powerpole connector and see the little conductive tongue, think "Red on the Right, Tongue on Top" The "RR, TT" makes it easier for me at least to remember.

[@davecasler]

Thanks for the tip.

[@neilbundle5112]

Wonderful! Thanks so much - Neil G4LRV

[@ZiggZagg11]

What I struggle with is putting in the wire in too deep inside the metal connector not allowing the "snap"...

[@henrys6099]

great video. I wonder if I could plug powerpole to SB50 ?

[@glenmartin2437]

Just reviewed your video. Thanks, again. N0QFT

[@williamvan909]

what if your wires are Alum wires... and the other is.... copper wire will it still work if you plug them together or will they cause a fire or blow your battery???

[@polishpicl]

Only correction I believe I could ever make on Any Of your videos is right in the beginning..they are known as anvils..not jaws..the jaws are the actual pliers themselves..the different anvils mount to the jaws..Thank you Ron

[@davecasler]

Thanks for the info.

[@norrinradd8952]

I believe he was referring to the interchangeable dies that came with the crimpers. Anvils make up the bottom row of "teeth" that are exposed when the jaws are opened. The crimp is made by compressing the connector and wire between one of these anvils and the hammer above it. This arrangement of anvils and hammers make up the "jaws". The jaws are permanently attached to a mounting system in the form of a die that allows for an easy swap according to need. Yes, the crimpers have jaws, but they become functional jaws after installing the proper die. Kind of like putting on your teeth in the morning. It is also possible that everyone is correct and this is just a matter of regional terminology. I keep my gloves in the jockey box.

[@James_Bowie]

@@norrinradd8952 Dies is the universally correct term.

[@norrinradd8952]

@@James_Bowie Yes, I agree. I referred to them as a die or dies several times in my post.

[@Tonylovesjazz]

As I'm watching this video...I'm thinking...Why do I need a crimping tool? You can use pliers. I 100% agree. XT60's all the way. Unfortunately, not everyone is 'Versed' in their usage. And, as usual, what is popular...is not always best. Best Regards to all.

[@KE8MWQ]

Say you're making a ham radio go box using a fused anderson power pole distribution block how would you go about adding a switch? I know it's a dumb question but I'm new to all of this

[@davecasler]

DC switches for automobiles can handle considerable current. Ask at your local auto parts store.

[@claudioxw]

Great video Dave, 73 PY1XW

[@andrewmitchell3289]

Many thanks from ZL1AF

[@johnpierre1898]

Dave, you said the standard in ham radio is “this size” but never stated the size, was it 30 or 45? Also I understood that all sizes up to 45 are cross compatible and the only real difference is the size of wire it will take.

[@svyt]

That is correct. You use the same housings for all 3 "sizes": 15, 30, and 45. (The Anderson nomenclature calls this the "PP15-45" size housing.) If you look at the contacts, you'll see that the "mating" parts of the contacts - the parts that touch each other from one connector to the other - are actually the same dimensions across all 3 of these (15, 30, and 45). Thus, with the same housing and compatible mating surfaces, the whole family of 15, 30, and 45 all work together and cross-connect. You are correct that the functional difference among the 3 terminal sizes is the wire size you will be crimping - you want to pick a contact with the range that matches your wire size to get a reliable crimp.

[@englishandproud2500]

Nice video Dave.

[@ryantoomey611]

Red on the left? Who thought of that? It makes more sense to have red on the right. Red starts with the letter "r" and right starts with the letter "r".

[@svyt]

It's all how you look at it - connector pointing towards you or away? "Hood" part of the connector pointing up, or down? I've always remembered the red/black orientation in the same way as navigating by boat or airplane "Red, right, returning" with one addition - my phrase is "tongue up, red, right, returning." I call the part opposite the hood the "tongue", and with that on top, and the connector coming toward you (i.e. "returning"), then red is on the right, just like the nav lights on a plane or boat.

[@butch3715]

Hi Dave - quick question. When I crimp Power Pole connectors they occasionally get stuck in the crimping tool, especially the 45A connectors. I own two different crimping tools from two different manufactures and have the same situation with both tools. Any idea what's going on?

[@roncraig007]

The dimple on the bottom makes a deep rectangular crimp on the "back side" of the connector. That's what's trapping your connector in the tool. Tug UP and down and UP and away, and it'll come off. Tugging OUT won't do it.

[@evanwindom3265]

It seems like it would be easier to crimp both connectors onto the wires, slide the two receptacles together, and then insert the crimped connectors into the receptacles...

[@kreskyv]

awesome and informative dave I have one quick question for you...how important is it to have the crimper tool? can you do it with pliers 73s VA3 KIL

[@davecasler]

I recommend the crimper tool. With pliers it's by-guess and by-golly.

[@matthewmiller6068]

Do you have a suggestion for the times where the connector jams in the crimp-tool, how to remove it without bending the metal connector insert? I've run into this sometimes trying to crimp the bigger wires, say 10AWG into a powerpole 45 and ended up trashing a couple connectors, it's very aggravating especially if you already got the other side "just right".

[@davecasler]

I've run into the same problem. I just wiggle them until they come loose. So far I haven't destroyed any. You might try using a screwdriver and hammer to gently tap on the stuck connector, as sometimes the jolt will knock them loose easily. Good luck! 73, Dave

[@roncraig007]

@@davecasler It's that dimple on the bottom jaw that is putting that rectangular deep crimp on the back side of the connector that is trapping the connector. Tug UP, down, UP and away. Tugging OUT won't work. Look at a finished crimp to see what I mean.

[@roncooke2188]

I don’t find them that reliable, XT60 i have used for quite few years and do the job better for me

[@KE8MWQ]

Do we have to use 14 wire or can we use 12 I have a lot of 12 left over from a solar project. I know it's a little harder to work with but need to find a use for it

[@davecasler]

Just make sure the PowerPole connector can handle it. I use 12 gauge stranded wire with them.

[@videostreamer1001]

Hi Dave! Great video! Thank you! Question: do you need that specific crimper, or can any quality crimper be used, Such as one used for making crimps on panduit style ring tung and for tongue stay cons?

[@davecasler]

I have two different crimpers I use. The one shown is the one I use most often.

There are cheap non-ratcheted crimpers. But a ratcheted crimper (one where you hear clicks as you squeeze, and stays in place until you reach the release point) will give you more reliable results because it requires that you apply the correct amount of pressure for a reliable crimp. There are a few different tools on the market, all of which seem to work equally well. Three that I know about that are reasonably priced: TRICrimp from Powerwerx: powerwerx.com/tricrimp-powerpole-connector-crimping-tool This is a dedicated PowerPole crimping tool as sold, but Powerwerx also sells a set of replacement dies if you want to crimp other types of connectors. PWRCrimp from West Mountain Radio: www.westmountainradio.com/product_info.php?products_id=PWRcrimp It looks suspiciously like a rebranded TRICrimp, which it may be since West Mountain Radio at one time DID sell the TRICrimp as PWRCrimp. (I have one that I got at a door prize at the Boxboro convention years ago; it was the best prize I ever got at a ham radio event.) West Mountain sells individual dies that can be used in the PWRCrimp. Andy-Crimp Pro from Quicksilver Radio.: www.qsradio.com/shop-now.html#!/Andy-Crimp-Pro/p/50841073 This one is not the same design but works equally well. You can just buy the tool, or kits that include other tools you will need and package them in a nice carrying case. (The fancy kit also includes dies for coax.) You can also buy individual dies. Anderson Power Products used to offer its own crimping tool that was considerably more expensive. So far as I can tell, it is no longer available. There are also generic ones from Amazon and eBay sellers, and yet another tool that is offered by SOTAbeams in the UK. The SOTAbeams tool is not offered by their US reseller, DX Engineering, presumably because those other tools are locally available; I have not seen one.

[@lawrence3242]

I may be have sausage fingers and can't assemble small assemblages. I will say it is a neat idea but can't seem to assemble these items. They are not idiot proof.

[@WS4ASE]

I've never had a need for them. I cant see why I would want to spend money and time to convert all of my connectors on my equipment when the connected they came with work fine. I know I'm missing something.

[@markhoberg4088]

At 3:28 you show the mating of two connector housings, which do not have any contactors already inside them (which would create curved surfaces). I have tried all night and I cannot mate them, as the plastic just butts up against the flat end of the interior blade. You must be a magician (or are trying to drive people insane). So, my theory is that you cannot mate two housings unless the contactor is already inside them. Did you bend the blades inside the housings in some manner beforehand in order to facilitate the mating demonstration?

[@davecasler]

I suspect I did the demonstration with housings that already had the mating connection in them.

[@KI4CFSHamRadioMartinBrossman]

You are just great!

[@MDFRESCUER]

Good video.

[@PAKOREGON]

Purchase the TRIcrimp crimping tool from PowerWerk. Guaranteed you will NOT have any issues. Don't scrimp on the crimper, it will be worth every penny.

[@terrycrissman7392]

Is there a best size (gauge) of zip wire to have on hand? What do size do you have?

[@davecasler]

I keep 12 gauge on hand for power wiring and I have various other kinds of wire for various hookups and circuit building

[@ryantoomey611]

I use #10 wire in my shack because it has a lower voltage drop.

[@bitogre]

Can you put an Anderson Powerpole Connector on an a wire without a crimp tool? If so, can you show how to put on a Anderson Powerpole Connector without a crimp tool (I assume you would solder them instead)? If not, can you recommend a Crimp tool that is not too expesnive (under $30)? I just do not see me building enough Anderson Powerpole wires to be worht the $40 - $100+ crimp tool.

[@davecasler]

You can solder if you'd like, but make sure that the metal prong still fits inside the housing. You can look around the Internet for an inexpensive crimping tool. Powerwerx sells one for $40 plus shipping. Also look at qsradio.com Good luck! 73

[@WI9LL]

bitogre if you are careful and keep the crimpable portion in the right shape, you can crimp with pliers, channellocks, or a number of tools. I use standard electrical terminal crimpers with no problems. You may kill a connector or two getting the feel for it but you don't have to buy the tool.

[@slybunda]

they are too loose and can come apart with just speaker vibrations.

[@barntt]

IF thats the case then they are not put together properly or they aren't Anderson's

[@eugenritzinger7469]

Nachteile: 1. Fehler beim Montieren können nicht korrigiert werden, 2. Montage fieselig, so dass Kabel am Ende vorgeschädigt sind, 3. Einwegprodukt, gut für den Umsatz des Herstellers, schlecht für den Verbraucher.

[@darkijah-andersjehovahsn7893]

You should not let that cobber be out. What you say is wrong. Only with big cables it is an issue like 6mm2 when the insolation is to big for the housing!

[@kirbyman1kanden7pf]

what's the Anderson Powerpole equivalent to an XT90 cable?

[@davecasler]

Sorry, I don't know. Perhaps some other commenter will.

[@planetmikeus]

Thanks for the video. What are the advantages of this over a SAE connector for power purposes?

[@davecasler]

Commonality. These connectors were first pushed by the ARES/RACES community to provide a standard for connecting anybody's equipment to anybody's power supplies. They caught on throughout ham radio fairly quickly. They are not ideal--they pull apart fairly easily.

[@clems6989]

Good video Man, but cut back on the coffee.. You shake worse than me...lol Thanks ! Great Video...

[@davecasler]

:-( I sure do. The doc calls it "essential tremor," meaning "tremor with no particular cause and nothing I can do about it." A recent commentor said he became seasick because of my shaky hand-held video! My wife has volunteered to do the handheld work in the future.

[@KX4UL]

Tremors come with age for SO many. It's part of life and it doesn't bother me a bit. Let them tremble. Just keep on making your informative videos Dave. They are highly valuable for us HAMS!

[@garychap8384]

Hey Dave, I had tremors just like that last year and the docs basically shrugged and said _'it happens, it's normal with age'._ which, whether true or not, is a frustratingly relaxed attitude. Fortunately, they actually went away after about six months (the tremors, not the doctors) - but I reckon they're a sign of the delights awaiting me very shortly : / I loved the video, please don't stop doing what you do : ) 73s, M6UDS

[@markgriffin1621]

I can’t get along with them. After an hour struggling to assemble them I generally give up and use another kind of connector.

[@markgriffin1621]

Oh there’s a tool! I didn’t know that.

[@simonwarries9852]

Great video, thanks. Simon -PD0KDN

[@beekeeper8474]

I have those same strippers used it in automotive for decades.

[@rooster2754]

GREAT! Now even my connectors have to be gender neutral!

[@raf060far]

if not, you will be shocked all night :-)

[@ryantoomey611]

I would NOT recommend a switching power supply for amateur radio use, due to the fact that they put out noise and hash on the HF bands. They may be fine for VHF and UHF, but for HF rigs I would use a good Astron Linear power supply.

[@chichimus]

I have been using an Alinco DM-330MV for quite a while. No noise/hash. If there was any the unit has an adjustment to move the interference.

[@paulplack490]

Ryan, while a good general rule, it's not true in every case. Switching supplies sold for ham use by reputable manufacturers are usually clean when viewed on a spectrum anaylzer. If they're not - return them!

[@georgcantor7172]

Who was Anderson? And is he still alive? Is his full name Anderson Cooper? Did he invent the connectors? or did someone else invent them, and Anderson just paid the guy off for the rights? Enquiring minds would love to know.

[@davecasler]

See the Anderson website at www.andersonpower.com/us/en.html

[@James_Bowie]

Enquiring minds should use Google.

[@stevenlawhon3695]

Do not expose any wire, all should be inside connector ferrule.

[@winstonsmiths2449]

Ugghhhh!!!! Do these things come in male-female parts? You connected them without showing how they are able to be mated!!! EVERY video I have watched does not show a male and female connection. HOW DO THEY WORK? Not learned. Easy to figure out to prep them, but I still do not know how to connect power to a device using these connectors.

[@LarsLarsen77]

Women don't squeeze as hard as men, on average.

[@johnsmiley2922]

What is the brand name of your strippers?

[@davecasler]

Stripmaster.

[@johnsmiley2922]

I couldn't find the stripmaster but I found a Southwire that looked identical to yours......it turns out to be a great investment!

[@andyh8239]

May want to include how you do a non-gender binary squeeze for all the lefties out there.