Using hotend as bed-level probe

[@Jacob_graber]

For safety, the switch is wired Normally Open (The probe closes the circuit when deployed, opens it upon each bed contact) so that any break in the wiring or movements will cause the platform to detect a "hit" and from there, only go up. It will never go down any further unless the probe is pressing the switch. The only thing that could cause such an issue would be a fused plate in the switch or board, which is impossible because there is no voltage across the switch.

[@TotallyGlitch]

Can you show how the model knew when it hit the G2 Timing Belt? That is the part I was having trouble seeing on your effector. Would love to try and put my mind to working on that effector this weekend. Also thanks for getting back to me about the Bearing order. -Todd

[@SteveGraber]

Interesting observation. I really don't think it will be an issue. The probe stops as soon as the endstop switch is triggered. Much less stress than a head crash into the bed. I think the fact that it is probing the tip of the nozzle flat to the glass so that the point load of the force is distributed over the face of the nozzle tip will keep the loading lower than deformation modulus.

[@626Pilot]

Just as well to have the hot end be the probe. If you have some other kind of probe and it fails, it will most likely rip the probe off the effector and crash the nozzle anyway. Plus, you don't have to worry about figuring out the x/y/z offset. For safety, the firmware should be made to go slow, and assume that if too many milliseconds have passed that the probing has failed and it should beep the beeper and send a warning over serial. I have my own probe design but this is CLEARLY better.

[@beatgerber8895]

Great idea! I would like to implement this part as well in my future printer.

[@Jacob_graber]

It does not know when it hits the belt, that specific movement is hard coded into the firmware. That's a vestigial motion that used to be used to drop the metal pin on the side of the hotend.

[@Jacob_graber]

You'd have to use an aluminum plate instead of foil. Imagine what a pain it'd be to place new foil on for every single bed level. Also, the biggest problem would be that the hotend squeezes out molten plastic, and is, as such, usually coated with a very very thin layer of it on the tip. You'd have a hard time detecting a contact without completely cleaning the nozzle before every level. Also, the spring and switch mean the nozzle has a bit of give, and doesn't have to smack the bed.

[@bubbasnow]

I see, I was under the impression that you would only need to run bed level only when you change the bed or nozzle (infrequently) and would assume the nozzle would be clean. I can see how tin foil would be a pain, maybe a more sturdy sheet of copper? If the heat is not on, there could be plastic build up on the end of the nozzle for this method which could cause inaccurate results as well.

[@petervandensteen3913]

This looks really promising. Would you run such a bed level run with bed and nozzle heating on or off. How much difference would that give you if you use the head as measure point?

[@FilmFactry]

Bravo! I'm just about to put my Effector together. Will you put the .STL up in your experimental folder for the pup? And Hulla: I think KZbin automatically does the crazy stabilization now. Might not be Steve's camera.

[@UndCon]

Nice probe - Makes me want a Delta PUP even more...can I use electronics from my Printrbot Simple?

[@Xnaron]

I'd be a little nervous of damaging the hotend. The brass nozzles are easily damaged. Its definitely an interesting idea though. I saw another repraper use a detachable probe held on with magnets.

[@GordonDykes]

Might there be a problem with the heat which radiates from the hot end from warping/softening the switch mounting above during a long print? Looking forward to seeing how you get on with this.

[@isamu2040]

Hi Steve, great job, it really inspired me to create my own version with an hall effect endstop. For the moment I can only calibrate the printer, but still I got a lot to learn about leveling. My main question is how to add more probing points to the platform. I saw your delta creates a matrix of diferent points, how can I do to do the same? Thanks in advaced and regards

[@SteveGraber]

firmware is Marlin - github.com/RichCattell/Marlin/releases

[@SteveGraber]

Hi Niclas. I believe that there are some people using Printrbot controller for deltabot. But I can't say personally.

[@Salmiller_fitness]

Hey Steve Can you share the effectors stl? I have problems with the original effector stl.

[@bubbasnow]

Why not use the hot end as a lead, and when it comes into contact with the bed and have a sheet of aluminum foil be the second lead. Then add the thickness of the foil .2mm or w/e to the z height.

[@SteveGraber]

I think it's my phone camera. I upgrade the internal camera software on my Razr Maxx and it appears to have messed something up. Also my technique is pretty lame.

[@elpurete]

how do you make your autolevel go that fast???

[@miroslavzuzelka2453]

Hi, awesome idea. Do you have any files or images which I could study? I have 3D printer and I have problem level big heat bed (300x300mm) and this would be very good upgrade for me. Many thanks for info.

[@PatrykPabo]

nice setup z probe setup! is the hotend stiff enough during printing ?

[@hulladek3]

Can u post a link to the original ? Your camera image stabilization makes me dizzy better turn it off.

[@hyperspeed3dprinting694]

hi there i have a geeetech delta 3d printer and i can not get my auto bed leveling working a have a video on my channel and every time it hits the bed it just dose not work

[@life3.013]

Can you share a link to that post in the Google group

[@codehustler]

is this somewhere on thingiverse or somewhere else to download?

[@ryannining]

Hi, what is the firmware you use, i have probe using hotend too, but when i call G28 then G29, nothing happened.

[@H_B_R]

i think the 10-30 microns inconsistency are so good compare to inductive sensor, but then again you are doing it too fast, i think you can achieve better accuracy if u slow it down, just a thought. Now i am thinking of 3 vertical spring on the hotend holder against the carriage instead of hinge like u did so that during printing - there wont be any x or y displacement of the nozzle when it drags on the previous layer of the printed material. Then i am not so creative on designs,if you can implement this i would love to see a video. Then again, this is 4 year old stuff for u, i am sure you have a well working design by now.

[@feynthefallen]

I'm still a bit off from building my own effector, but what firmware is that you are running?

[@SteveGraber]

For deltabot printers I suggest running either Duet or Smoothieware firmware/hardware.

[@chloemcholoe3280]

that's fast. on the optical touchy probe I built becaUse I didnt want to design my own hotend for my anycubic i3 mega i go down at homing speed and don't go left and right that fast and do it twice on each point :D

[@JJose-22]

hi, could u pls send me ur marlin code? and how do u use more than one point for auto bed levelling?

[@SteveGraber]

It's all in the Marlin code available for free here: github.com/RichCattell/Marlin/releases

[@JJose-22]

Steve Graber ya but your firmware checked on multiple points I tried a marlin copy from github and it checks only 4 points on my prusa -.-

[@SteveGraber]

That is a difference between the deltabot and the cartesian printer code.

[@JJose-22]

Steve Graber ohh :(

[@FreeAIMoney]

Could I get link to the forums please...thanks.

[@SteveGraber]

+TheRealKingDong groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/deltabot/SrmxHMxdgBE[1-25]