Using the rope to pitch the crux section of a scramble

Visit our website www.glenmorelodge.org.uk or call us on 01479 861256
Glenmore Lodge instructor Derek Bain demonstrates how to take the crux of a scramble using the rope to increase safety on the section. In this clip the focus is smearing. Glenmore Lodge offer a range of summer hillwalking, scrambling and navigation courses from April to November and winter walking, mountaineering, avalanche awareness and navigation from January to March. We offer everything from complete beginner courses through to a multi-day traverse of the legendary Cuillin Ridge or even bespoke trips you've designed.

[@DeShark88]

Bunch of eejits in the comments who think they have more experience and knowledge than trained mountain guides with decades of practical, hands on experience. Utterly mindblowing. The video was perfect for me - just the right bridge between experience I already have from climbing and how to adapt that for a scramble situation.

[@bedenshire]

You are a phenomenal teacher on camera, and the quality of these instructional videos is fantastic. If I find myself in the position to take a class from Glenmore Lodge, I will, as result of the care and attention paid to these videos. The affect these have as instructional tools is impossible to overestimate. Thank you.

[@glenmorelodge]

Find the Wild - Thank you for such a positive comment, we are glad you are enjoying our videos and we hope to see you on a course some day.

[@gmskippy]

I find these short instructional videos fantastic keep up the great work.

[@p.richter9592]

What a great video. Loads of good usable information, clear and to the point. Learned a lot 👍🏻👍🏻🇳🇴

[@michaelwho]

you're a good instructor. Thank you

[@chowmein12]

Amazing video

[@BMrider75]

Fiacaill of Coire an t-Sneachda Ridge, a great scramble route up to Cairn Gorm. Thanks

[@Vicentecarmonagonza]

Excellent!!!

[@worldcooking]

Good video; what great people!

[@Mateyhv1]

Opara, the anchor in this case is not sketchy, its bomber! Thats why he can belay from the harness, its probably a personal preference. I agree that using the Reverso that way is difficult and would not recommend it at all when the second may hang from the rope. In any case I would use it in autoblocking mode for the second climber.

[@glenmorelodge]

Opara and Mateyhv1 thanks for your comments. Using a Petzl Reverso in this way has of course a number of pros and cons, too lengthy for an extended discussion here. In this instance with the bomber anchor away from the edge if the belayer chose to belay by the anchor in guide mode, this would remove the line of sight and make communication difficult. It can be operated in guide mode from a distance but this can be quite awkward. Our instructor has gone for the best fit for that situation - a not too technical low consequence pitched scrambling situation with anchors set back from the edge.

[@Mateyhv1]

Glenmore Lodge Thanks! I agree communication is paramount and the climbing is not technical in this case. From that point of view the setup is Ok. My only concern would be the type of anchor made with the climbing rope seen here and in some of your videos, instead of using an accessory cord, that would make escaping the system very difficult. Again in a non-technical terrain as the one depicted here its not a big deal.

[@SileDevil]

in theese cases isnt better to belay using a munter hitch on a carabiner? i think it makes braking a bit easier since you have to push the brake rope down instead of pulling it up like youre doing with the reverso in this vid.

[@brightful5]

Jeremy from Jersey just subscribed

[@chelseafootballc]

Great video. Is this done just to protect you from a big fall?

[@dkopara]

Why do you prefer to belay the second directly from your harness? If the anchor is sketchy I guess you could do that to try to take all the weight (force) on yourself instead on the anchor, but you do risk of having the anchor loaded by two body weights if you get pulled down. And with working with the belay device in this manner (rope going directly downwards) one has to pull the unloaded side up to stop a fall which is quite difficult if you are being pulled down. Thanks, great videos!

[@thomaswillmann296]

Great video, thank you very much. From 6:19, would it not make sense to isolate both strands with, let's say, an alpine butterfly with one alpine butterfly? This way the belay and personal anchor would be separated.

[@James-yy4vl]

Having only done grade 1 scrambles and no experience with rope/harness etc this seems a hell of a lot to learn haha.

[@waynediffin7225]

its far easier than it looks .

[@kopilit]

Having no experience whatsoever but loving hill walking I watched this video, read the comments and understand absolutely nothing and it's put me off for life :D I couldn't remember packing three ropes let alone learning another language just to get up a hill.

[@malcopops4]

It is a lot to learn. It all comes together pretty easily on a course, but getting enough practice is key to become reasonably efficient rather than spending ages deciding what to do next (or, worse, cutting corners!).

[@waynediffin7225]

hahaha kick the rock in the direction of your belayer!! good call lol.. it's a good job that huge heavy rock did'nt go toppling down the scramble ... poor belayer. :P

[@skater20112011]

When you mule kicked the rock, it looks like if it did let go, it would roll down the rope line to your belayer

[@daveus111]

How are you gonna prevent that? let's say you don't test it, then its gonna fall while he climbs and you both die

[@Themrjakecollins]

Anyone know which scramble this is?

[@AugmentedRealityImages]

Looks like the Fiacaill ridge in the Cairngorms to me.

[@kayakerodie]

be it far from me to point out the anchor system for the belayer, but if the climber took a fall, should not the anchor be behind the belayer? All it would do if it were in front would allow the belayer to be pulled forward another 12 to 15 feet before becoming effective......thus dropping the climber unnecessarily further down.....I don't like that concept.....

[@andrewbeaver1843]

While belaying is it a great idea to take your break hand off of the break side?

[@BCsJonathanTM]

Rumour has it that it is indeed not such a good idea.

[@andrewbeaver1843]

That's what I thought. Also what about 6:34, I thought you're always supposed to clip into your belay loop?

[@BCsJonathanTM]

RE the biner clipped to the loop of rope and not the belay loop on the harness, this doesnt bug me - they're both 100% solid connections. It might even be theoretically safer because the harness belay loop is removed as a critical component in the system (it only holds on the "accessory" of the belaying partner : ). One less component = one less part to fail. Of course your harness belay loop WONT fail, so it's all acedemic. But a thinking climber is a... I don't know... learning climber... ?

[@andrewbeaver1843]

Makes perfect sense. I actually don't climb very often. The biner not being clipped into the belay loop raised an issue in my head because the group I learned to climb from said to always clip into your belay loop.

[@MrFg1980]

I was taught to never, ever do that. Also, lock off when your focus is not 100% on the climber, even for a moment. Just remember. That's your friend on the other end...

[@StephenTurnerVlogs]

DO NOT BELAY WITH THE ROPE OVER YOUR LEGS LIKE THIS!! NEVER!! If the climber falls your leg could be trapped and possibly very injured!! Belay from the side of your body.

[@waynediffin7225]

he didnt the belaying is fine. he's baying off the tie in loop not across his legs the rope sits between his legs.

[@joshb.6166]

And use the ATC in the correct mode when belaying from top - in Guide Mode

[@richardparke4105]

@@joshb.6166 Why does he need to use guide mode? He's able to belay in a perfectly comfortable position from his rope loop, and the assisted braking feature of guide mode is nice but by no means crucial.

[@ericrice8732]

Wayne Diffin he is 100% beneath the anchor and between the master point and the rock so if it’s weighted it could trap him. No need for guide mode but his positioning is a bit off

[@daveus111]

Great video, but why do you sit there? Theres many routes you wont wont see and hear climber following anyway. I would build the anchor short around the bloc, stand there on the ledge to belay. Another thing is, why not learn beginners non-acoustic communication by pulling the rope 3 times twice. fist time signal means "off belay" second time signal means climber can come often acustic the communication is difficult becaus of the wind.

[@tiktianchan1913]

if there's a lot of drag in the rope it can be quite tough to feel tugs...

[@robertengland2362]

3.40 looks like he's back clipped..

[@jamesmccormick1747]

he hasn't

[@frankblangeard8865]

When you take out a rope it is no longer 'scrambling'.

[@adventureswithfrodo2721]

really poor belay to technique. you would drop him when you have the downhill hand on the rope..

[@apeman2601]

As this is completely against literature, research and up-to-date education in climbing I need to leave a comment here. You should never use your reverso petzl this way. Use a munter hitch at least...and if there is still a discussion read the manual of the petzl belay device (www.petzl.com/CH/de/Sport/Sicherungs--und-Abseilgerate/REVERSO-4 ) this mode is not included in the manual for reasons!

[@jamesmccormick1747]

this manner of using the device is fine and commonplace

[@DeShark88]

You've got the wrong end of the stick entirely there. The diagram in the manual is regarding a _factor-two, lead_ fall. From the notes of the manual: "Warning: if the climber has not clipped a directional point before falling, holding the fall with the rope pulling downward is very difficult." That's an entirely different situation to belaying from above. As James has already pointed out, this manner of using the device is fine and commonplace.