Utility Trailer Final Review - Part 3 --- Video #25

[@armandopatane5343]

That is the best harber frieght trailer I've seen ,and the wood work looks awesome,and I like how all the bolts are through&through, truly an awesome job

[@kwrightway]

Thank you for the kind comments! I do appreciate your watching the video and taking the time to comment.

[@jmocflix]

You did a great job with this trailer. Thumbs up.

[@kwrightway]

+Jorge Ortiz Thank you for the kind comments!

[@donfillenworth1721]

Nice detail with the Tee nuts in the stake posts. Thanks for sharing

[@kwrightway]

Thank you for the comment!

[@SamYoungRadio]

That's okay. You want to add a small gap between the boards for expansion when hot or cold that way your boards don't warp. Just the same when building a deck on your home. You did a great job.

[@kwrightway]

You are correct of course. The wood I used was quite damp, so I knew it was going to shrink as it dried, which it did. If the wood was dry, I would have allowed for more of a gap during the installation, but as it turned out, it's fine. Thanks for the kind comment!

[@sparks6666]

Holy crap...great idea for the T-nuts.

[@gophucyuseff1181]

I know a welder who builds trailers. He says safety chains have hooks instead of couplers so they release if the trailer flips over. Awesome craftsmanship on your part btw

[@kwrightway]

I always encourage folks to use their best judgement and make their own decisions regarding their projects. Though KZbin is a great tool, everyone has their own take on things. Thank you for kind comment!

[@mtilzmusik]

I've watched a lot of videos on these Harbor Freight trailers. I have one that I bought in the 80's from Sams Wholesale. There's no telling how many miles I have on that old trailer. It's been re-finished and new wood a few times. I've put 3 or 4 sets of tires on it. This video has really gotten me interested in doing a new "restore" on it. This is the best job I've seen out of ALL the videos I've watched. I like the tie-downs and the motorcycle front tire holder idea. I was also thinking about adding some long drawer hardware and a sheet of 5/8 pressure treated plywood that would slide in above the tie downs so that I could haul yard waste if I needed to. How is your old trailer holding up?

[@kwrightway]

Thanks for sharing your story and the kind words! In terms of the trailer, it's holding up fine, I just used it last week in fact. Still all-original, though it doesn't' accumulate a lot of miles as I use it local only.

[@dickthames1971]

This is the best trailer plan I have found and the best described Where did you get the attaching brackets for the motorcycle wheel chocks. Best application for motorcycle I have ever seen. I have brand new 2018 trailer. I am working on the flooring and railing and yours is the plan I will be using. Thanks much.

[@kwrightway]

The attaching brackets came with the wheel chocks, which I bought online. If you look around you should be able to find similar wheel chocks. Glad the design and trailer video(s) are helpful to you, and I certainly appreciate the kind words and feedback!

[@cliffdohc]

Very nicely built. I just picked up an older tent trailer for cheap. Your conversion is giving me some good ideas...thanks. P.S. I also use stainless fasteners on everything I build....I dislike rust!!!

[@kwrightway]

Thank you for the comment and kind words... good luck with your project!

[@gordonmccoy4537]

Excellent Vid.... Thanks for the demo/explanation of Motorcycle/ATV mounting and tie-down system.... I'll be copying you! Again, thanks! Gordon (BTW, good finishing wood work!)

[@kwrightway]

+Gordon McCoy Thank you, appreciate the comments!

[@rogerh3858]

nice job and like the way the black paint over the harbor freight red. can you share which paint you use and the preparation ?

[@kwrightway]

+roger huang It's been a couple of years since I built this trailer, but I believe I used Dupli-color ceramic gloss black, available at any auto-supply store. In terms of preparation, I simply scuffed the original paint with 220 (I think) sandpaper then wiped everything down carefully with mineral spirits. I let it dry for a day or so before painting. I work on a lot of different projects of all kinds and when if it's been a while the details regarding any particular project can become a little fuzzy. I believe I covered the prep and painting details in one of the videos, though. Thanks for the kind comment.

[@jaymarucci1945]

Thanks for sharing this build. I just built my 2016 super duty HF trailer using some of your ideas. Mainly the framing you did I pretty much emulated.

[@kwrightway]

Thanks the note... I'm glad the trailer-build was helpful to you.

[@bdoo60]

nice job !! Great video great ideas getting an old trailer to work on will be using some of your tips...Thanks

[@kwrightway]

Glad you found the video helpful. Thanks for the kind comments, also!

[@fulltrucker3596]

Man I still remember the time when My arm was healed from being broken when I was 7 years old I went outside and made a trailer a lot like that ome!

[@jameshawken9954]

Great trailer. How did you connect the 1x6s for the deck? My HF trailer only has 3 holes across the top of the frame. Did you drill additional holes so each 1x6 could be attached to the frame! Thanks!

[@kwrightway]

Thank you. Correct, I drilled the extra holes to secure the deck planking where I needed them.

[@dickthames1971]

Thanks for the quick reply. I have searched on the kind of chocks you display but have not seen anything about how they attach. Would you please give me a brand name and where you bought them online, ie; eBay, Amazon, etc. Thanks very much.

[@ohiodigger4391]

That's probably the best looking 4x8 trailer video on KZbin. I'm going tonight to pick up a 4x8 from Harbor Freight. You can't beat the price (approx $240+tax for a 4x8). What kind of lumber and dimensions did you use for the floor? I plan on doing the sides exactly like yours. I need to be able to load my leaves on their and haul them to the compost dump. Great video.

[@kwrightway]

Thanks for the kind comment! Both the sides and floor are constructed from basic 1" x 6" treated decking lumber. Try to use the driest lumber you can find or if the lumber is damp, I'd suggest allowing it to air dry thoroughly before using. It WILL shrink as it dries so you want to use dry lumber to prevent excessive gaps. I also used stainless steel fasteners where ever possible. Thanks again...

[@kwrightway]

Red Rider7 Whether to install with/without a gap depends a bit on the moisture content of the lumber at the time of the install. If the lumber is green or significantly wet, installing with no gap will minimize the eventual gapping that will occur as the lumber dries. If however, the lumber is already cured/very dry then installing with a gap, such as is done with decking boards, would be likely the best course of action. I appreciate your comments.

[@ohiodigger4391]

Red Rider7 You can get those corner brackets at Tractor Supply. I don't recall the name of them but that's where I've found them. Not terribly expensive either. But whatever the cost they do a great job of holding everything together and also allowing the sides to be removed quickly.

[@kwrightway]

At the time I built my trailer, about two years ago, I couldn't find the corner brackets at my local TSC so I bought them on line.

[@Richard63626362]

Hi, I'm in the UK and just wanted to say how great your trailer looks. I am into motorcycles also - I have a zx10 and want to build a similar trailer to yours to take it to the track. Can you give me pointers for all the tools/materials I need? Much appreciated . Richard

[@kwrightway]

+Richard63626362 Richard, I started with a manufactured trailer "kit", that comes knocked down. Using this as a foundation, I added the stake pockets decking and other items. The floor and side walls were made from treated lumber as used for home decks. The other items such wheel chocks, hold down rings, etc. I sourced mostly online, though these can items can also usually be bought through farm stores or motorcycle dealers. I can't provide any advice regarding finding a trailer kit in the UK, as this is outside my arena.

[@agfa663]

Very nice add-on, very nice work but the problem is that you added it on a very bad trailer. It is all nice until you start using it. I had the verg same crappy trailer from Harbour Freight and ended-up giving it away after 3 years. The many problems problems with this trailer are: - MADE IN CHINA. - Paint fade away and become flat and powdery in no time. - Made of recycled iron, it rust in no time. - Frame assembly is only bolted (DIY kit) so it is so flexible that tow at rating specification is not an option. - Frame assembly is only as reliable as the threadlock fluid you put on the bolts during assembly. Pray not to llose frame bolts while on the road as this trailer vibrates A LOT. - Fenders are bolted and they cracked at bolt insertion. Risk that they will fall on the road and potentialy make a damage at the car following you. - Frame is foldable but the caster wheels it stands on braked in a couple of days. - Lights don't last long and will need to be replaced with better quality American brand like Peterson. - Receiver mecanism seized so I had to replace it. - Cheap Chinese metric bearings packed with cheap chines grease. Hard to find replacement because they are metric. Standard bearing fron RV and trailer shops do not fit. You need to go to specialized bearing shops. I replaced them with Timkens and packed them with Red N tacky - Wiring dried rot and cracked making shorts within 1 year. I had yo replace it.

[@tkdlover1]

Like your video. I have built a trailer similar to this. I bought an old 5x8 trailer with no sides. I built wood sides very much like you have. The bed had no stake pockets. I need to install the tail gate but cant find the hardware like you have for it to slide in and secure it to sides. Also I cant find stake pockets that size to accommodate 2x4 stakes. Any suggestionns

[@kwrightway]

+tkdlover1 Stake pockets suitable for 2x4s are available on-the-shelf at Tractor Supply, at least in my area, or on line such as eBay, etc. Though I haven't checked, I'd think Tractor Supply would also have them on their web site for purchase.

[@mngfng]

Very very nice! I would like to fix my trailer as you like. Could you tell me what size are the tread wood and Fixing screw? Thank you so much!

[@kwrightway]

The planks are standard 1" x 6" (nominal) treated deck lumber. I used stainless steel hardware wherever possible, including the carriage bolts used to attach the decking down to the trailer frame. I believe the deck fasteners were 5/16" x 1 1/2" or so. I'm recalling from memory as it's been five years since I constructed the trailer. Thank you for the kind comments!

[@mngfng]

kwrightway Thank you so much.

[@bufords]

Just a note, the stainless bolts you use at the coupler is dangerous. As a rule stainless bolts are only grade 2 unless custom machined. Grade 2 bolts are not nearly strong enough.

[@kwrightway]

You are absolutely correct... Earlier this year I replaced the coupler bolts with high-strength SS bolts from McMaster-Car, which are quite expensive. A great comment, thank you.

[@wjackstl]

where did you get the shoulder bolts and keys? I picked up a few of those wheel chocks....really like the 'removable' option you added. also, props on your idea to add furniture bolts to the back side of the skirt's 2×4's. your angled cut at the top looks nice, too

[@kwrightway]

+Wesley Jackson The shoulder bolts and keys came with the wheel chocks. Thank you for the comments and kind remarks!

[@9q7a5z]

You don't need extra wire with a tilt trailer. Just run wire to pivot point before taking it to the bed. The rest is top notch!

[@kwrightway]

+Myfootsasmokin Years ago, I had a tilt-bed snowmobile trailer that eventually developed electrical gremlins. I finally traced it down to an inconsistent ground at the pivot point for the tilt bed (a factory trailer). Corrosion, age and wear interfered with the ground path. I ran a separate ground from hitch pigtail all the way back to each light and the problem went away. I also know others that have had the same problem. Since this was a new build and it wasn't much more work, I simply wanted to be on the safe side. That's why I ran a separate ground from front to back and not depend on the trailer body for grounding at all. Thanks for the comment.

[@scottduty4885]

Awesome video. I learned a lot and am looking to build a similar trailer. What kind of bolts or screws did you use to attach the side 1X6 boards to the 2x4s? I see 2 per board into the 2x4 thanks.

[@kwrightway]

I simply used 2 1/2 inch deck screws driven through the from the inside, two per board at each 2 x 4. There are other ways to this could be done though, including carriage bolts. Thanks for the comment!

[@gregkyle3329]

I would like to ask since you removed the two long hitch bolts and replaced them with 4 SS bolts, where did you connect the chain????? The chain originally had been connected to one of the long bolts holding it to the hitch???? Thanks

[@kwrightway]

+Greg Kyle There are two vertical bolts that attach the coupler to the trailer frame. I secured the chain to the front coupler attaching bolt.

[@richiesun9676]

Nice build, I want one!

[@kwrightway]

Thanks!

[@randpeck9060]

Excellent video. Are there links to Part 1 and 2 somewhere. Searching around but can't find them.

[@kwrightway]

+Rand Peck If you scroll through the videos on my channel, you will find parts one and two. They are not numbered as they were posted before I started number the videos.

[@randpeck9060]

+kwrightway Great, thanks very much. I learned much from your video and plan to use that knowledge to build wooden side rails for my Load Rite trailer.

[@tjbingham]

How did you mount the deck boards to the trailer? I'm looking at either doing a treated lumber floor or expanded metal and looking to find out how to do the floor.

[@ratoneJR]

came out nice

[@kwrightway]

Thank you...

[@loganrcmaster]

What kind of wood did you use for the side panels is it 5/4 treated

[@kwrightway]

Correct, it's decking lumber...

[@ghostrider196319]

cool trailer what did you treat the wood with?

[@kwrightway]

I didn't treat the wood with anything. I'm fortunate I can store the trailer inside so weather isn't an issue for me. Also, once the wood is treated with a preservative, the process will never stop... it will need to be refreshed every so often.

[@ratoneJR]

Since the coupler is not "through bolted", How did you attach the safety chains? I could not see this in your video.

[@kwrightway]

I attached the chains to the first vertical bolt immediately behind the coupler latch lever, up underneath the coupler. If memory serves (it's been a few years), I used a grade 8 bolt with several large washers on each side of the chain and a Nylok nut secured everything.

[@ratoneJR]

@@kwrightway Thanks for the idea.

[@kwrightway]

@@ratoneJR You're most welcome...

[@t-rushin5813]

hey what are the dimensions for that trailer? it looks amazing! I was thinking of doing an idea just like that!

[@kwrightway]

The dimensions to the OUTSIDE of the frame rails is about 46" W x 96" L. That's why I added external post pockets rather than using the internal knock-outs in the frame rails. Otherwise, the inside measurements would be less than 4' x 8'.

[@t-rushin5813]

oh wow okay thank you so much because i recently got a trailer frame and want to make it into a multipurpose trailer and that idea of your is just perfect for using a atv, camping, fishing and other things where did you get those steak brackets. If it was a store near you, would i be able to get them online at all?

[@kwrightway]

Theodore Russell The weld-on stake pockets are readily available online, eBay and I've even seen them at Tractor Supply on the shelf. You shouldn't have any problem finding them.

[@ItsVideos]

Where did you get the tail gate handles? What specifically are they called (so I can do a search)? Thanks.

[@kwrightway]

The tail-gate handles are simply "gate" handles I bought at (I think... it's been five years) a local big box DIY store, probably Menards. They are found in the hardware aisle, where one will find gate hinges, closure springs, latches, etc.

[@robertrodriguez1638]

I cant find the wheel chock attachment brackets anywhere. Can you share where you got them or the name of them?

[@kwrightway]

I bought the wheel chocks and extra hardware (for the center mount) online at: www.discountramps.com You may have to do a little site-searching, but the items are there, or at least were when I bought my items. This project was my one and only experience with this vendor and their service and delivery was first-rate.

[@quedogkualum]

Where did you get the tailgate hinges?

[@johnpuccetti9383]

Great job. But the glue won't accomplish anything.

[@thelastengineer2315]

How is the trailer holding up?

[@kwrightway]

Though I have't used the trailer a lot, it's been working out just fine. I'm fortunate that I can store my equipment inside so it doesn't have to sit out in the weather, which helps in a climate like Michigan's. My plan is to eventually replace the inexpensive original tires, which to be honest, I don't entire trust, with a better quality shoes. Probably do the same with the axle bearings, too.

[@thelastengineer2315]

You certainly did a decent job with great upgrades, I am embarking on doing the same modifications once I get the basic trailer, thanks for sharing your skills. Glad to hear it is still serving you well let us know where you go with the tires.

[@kwrightway]

Thank you for the comments, and best of luck on your project. Will do on the tires...

[@billl2003]

Very nice. Completely over-engineered, but nice.

[@luisangelcazaresbeltran8457]

how did you get a license plate for that?

[@kwrightway]

The trailer kit came with a title, which my state accepted, they transferred the title into my name and issued me a plate on the spot.