V8 S10 Blazer Steering Stabilizer Install (Ep.14)

[@slipknotman515]

I've had 3 S10s, 2 ZR2s, and the only thing I have ever done that made the steering feel "good" was the Flaming River U Joint. It's worth every penny and takes out all the slop, and provides more solid steering feedback. That rag joint is toast!

[@FuzzyDiceProjects]

Thanks for the tip! That is definitely the next thing on the to-do list for this truck.

[@chungaleta1234]

Ahhh Old Chevys... They're a never ending project!!! That's why I love them,

[@bairfamilyfarm1336]

chungaleta1234 Kinda like my f150. But it's problems pretty much cause it to be undriveable imediatly. As where my Sonoma gives my a warning quite a ways before.

[@GeminiWoods]

I have a 92 Bronco that is pretty much a never ending hobby. Something breaks... Replace it and keep rolling!

[@rexcameron995]

yeah because they are trash

[@WesleyDanken]

Just wanted to say I love all your project videos and I think you have a great narrative voice and you explain what your doing in such a great way I can fallow what your doing. Keep up the great videos

[@lastgood2kiss]

I agree. You make all your projects look easy, but I'm not fooled. Great work. Love watching the videos.

[@robinnewcomb2531]

Many years ago, I had an '85 S-10 Blazer... It did have a steering stabilizer from the factory. Even though you did that DIY alignment (for Toe-In), I'd recommend a full alignment to ensure the caster/camber is within spec...

[@ThePickleSlicer]

I love how you don’t give up. Giving me motivation on my project! Thanks!!!!

[@candicebeebe6688]

You know if you use 1999-05 Blazer spindles/ lower control arms, you can upgrade to dual piston calipers. And the different sway bar will clear your tires. We did this swap on our 85 4X4 pickup. Stopping is 40% better.

[@The_Zilla777]

You're so meticulous and knowledgeable and this has been such an interesting series to watch. Thank you for a great channel.

[@artchapmanii89]

Great videos, great rebuild, I had an 87 s10 4x4, it had 200,000 on it when I bought it,the guy b4 me,had replaced and worked on almost all of the front end it worked great, I had to do a few things to the 2.8v6, but it was just minor stuff carb gasket, tuning distributor, everything worked great but then along with all those miles the 5spd decided it didn't get any love,so had to do an overhaul on that, I needed to sell it,but I know the person that bought it and other than a bit more rust he's still driving it!

[@artchapmanii89]

It was an ex state fish and game warden truck so almost same color tan

[@hasbeengood]

As I said before, on my car, the minute I got rid of the rag joint, the car stopped wandering and all that you mention. You can keep your shaft, just machine a piece of T6 Alu with air craft grade bolts and you're set.... oh, loctite as well.

[@chrisrye9128]

Did same repair to my son's 79 Bronco. Pretty straight forward.

[@cindytepper8878]

You can cut way down on bump steer by toeing the tires in a bit more, not a lot just slightly more toe in than spec. After a couple days run your hand across the front tires to make sure they aren't feathering

[@maniacaloffroad5338]

I really need to watch ahead before commenting 😁 you always address my suggestions in the next video.

[@WilliamGreenlee]

Ugh, I hate bump steer! Glad you're trying to correct it. Keep up the great work!

[@stevenwithanS]

I would have gone with skinnier tires. Less pull on the front end and more p.s.i. on the ground. You've done some incredible things to this lucky little Blazer. Good on ya.

[@SuperDriver101]

He's back yes!!!more s10 videos

[@scottc4433]

Having same issue with mine . You can buy outer tie rod ends that correct the height of the tie rod

[@NevinWilliams71]

The extra engine mass and shifted weight distribution can screw with stock suspension geometries and spring stiffness; you've a lot more weight hanging in front of the axles with a 350 than a 2.8 V6. If your ride height remained the same after the swap, something other than the springs must be compensating for the extra 200+ lbs up front.

[@FuzzyDiceProjects]

My understanding is that the TBI 4.3L engines weigh just over 400lbs with accessories, and a 350 with iron heads should weigh somewhere around 475. And I stripped out quite a few parts (like the A/C equipment) from the engine bay so the difference is probably only 50-75 lbs. Doesn't seem to ride any different and the ride height didn't change from my measurements before and after the swap.

[@NevinWilliams71]

Ah... it looked a bit older than when they started putting 4.3s in 'em, which IIRC, was in '88 or '89...? Since the 4.3s were essentially just 3/4 of a 350, not as much of a difference.

[@FuzzyDiceProjects]

Yep! I believe the 4.3L started being put in these in 1988, which makes this truck the first year that came with them.

[@Kaelsam77]

The added weight from the v8 won't do what he's saying is happening. I have a 93 s10 blazer 4 door with a 489 ci bbc and it dropped an extra 3/4" from stock height

[@about17cheezits96]

In my experience with Jeeps a steering stabilizer just masks the actual issues in the steering and suspension system, definitely what I would call a band-aid part.

[@germannicolasetcheverrysan1481]

i like the way you solve things, great videos

[@Kaelsam77]

You can get taller lower ball joints that help with bump steering a decent amount although they will lower the front a little

[@bigospig]

Caster is my guess given the tendency to tramline.

[@infoanorexic]

I've got a '91 that exhibits the same issues, bump steer and tramlining, and it got downright frightful on an icy highway. I'm about ready to paint a white strip down the center and call it "skunk." I've done some adjustment to the steering box, but I'm going to upgrade/replace the rag joint before exploring that any further. Adding a damper (which I thought was going to be replacing a missing one) is just one step I plan to take. I got the guard off, and there is no place for the business end on the drag link. According to "chitlin's" most of those trucks were supposed to have one. Led astray again. I can't see how they can justify $65+ for an add on bracket made out of stamped metal, so it looks like I'm going to be making one. The other issue I'm trying to resolve is a pop/jerk when it's in 4x4. Nearest I can tell, it's not a chain drive transfer case (231-c). Even if it was, it doesn't exhibit the slack that you would find with a stretched chain, so ... With that ruled out, can anyone give me the most likely place to look for the problem??? ... ?

[@FuzzyDiceProjects]

Does your truck still have the original vacuum actuator for the front differential? If so the "pop" may be the diff slipping from a poor/incomplete lock. Just an idea. I ended up replacing the steering shaft with a more solid Cherokee one and it didn't really help the steering. The play is still in the steering box, the reman one wasn't actually that much better. The stabilizer made a big difference in masking the issues and making it driveable but it still isn't ideal or the most pleasant. Best of luck with your project!

[@infoanorexic]

@@FuzzyDiceProjects I just came in from installing the damper on mine. My take on it is than it makes things easier to manage. It was obvious, when I got the truck, that a lot of work has already been done on the front end. One lower ball joint has a tiny bit of play, perhaps one of the lower arm bushing, everything else has checked out. Not enough to explain it's wandering ways, in my mind. The looseness became a lot more defined when I lost the belt a few weeks ago. Steer like a mule in a turn, and when I started to straighten out, easy for about 15 degrees and back to fighting it. So, rag joint next, then steering box. Fighting that plastic shield, between the power steering hoses and the lines to the remote oil filter being in the way, makes it difficult to find out anything. It does still have the vacuum actuated front axle lock. It failed me last time I tried to use it, about a week ago. I haven't investigated that yet.

[@subvrsivehippie]

I don't know the part numbers, but I know that I've seen some people just cut the rag joint section out and replace it with a steering ujoint. I think it's 1" DD x 3/4" DD, but it may be 3/4 x3/4.

[@det6912]

Very informative video. Much appreciated

[@allenmckinney9533]

On my 00 s10 I cut up a jeep and chevy steering shaft and made a chevy shaft with the jeep u-joint. Works great and haven't had any problems.

[@whitewalls8778]

Cool project; thanks for sharing! :) I don't know how much off roading you do but have you ever thought of converting this to AWD? I've done the swap and it's not hard. You'd have the traction of a GMC Typhoon which would really let you get that v8 power to the pavement and would also help you to navigate slippery road conditions. Best mod I ever did.

[@Bign89]

thing to consider too is frame could be bent a tiny bit causing the bump steer as well.

[@FuzzyDiceProjects]

It is possible, the front left frame rail did get dented a little from the bumper support bar after all

[@lakeyoung2237]

I had the same problem with my 96 when I bought it but about a month later of dealing with that crap I got the frame looked at before I bought anything and found out my frame was bent just a little on the front passenger side, so I had them fix the problem which helped some with the bump steer not much, so I literally change every part that you did (minus the steering stabilizer) but I also changed my upper and lower control arms an now it drive's like new, cannot even tell it had a bump steering issue at all. But you might want to take a better look at them control arms partner might be twisting with time or just wore out maybe.

[@FuzzyDiceProjects]

Thanks for the tip! The uppers weren't in great shape when I had them off to replace the bushings. Never got the lowers out since the torsion bars are rust welded in though.

[@lakeyoung2237]

Fuzzy Dice Projects Yeah that ain't very good I'd say swap them puppies when you get the chance an ain't nothin wrong with some used but still pretty good condition parts thats what I did, and keep the steering stablizer those things work wonders off road

[@El_Chompo]

I just got a new remanufactured steering rack for the A6 I've been working on getting back on the road. The new unit has the same casting number as the one I turned in for a core charge, so it was nearly identical except for the fact that they filled in the hole where the damper went, and now on the new unit there is no place to mount the damper from the old unit. I'm not sure why they did this, the damper was still good.

[@rvburbank1]

Something to look into on the S10 is the center link. Heard a lot about the after market parts being the wrong geometry and causing wandering. An AC Delco unit is supposed to fix the issue.

[@FuzzyDiceProjects]

Interesting! I didn't replace it, and don't know why anyone else would have since they don't have moving parts on the 4wd trucks, but it is possible that could cause odd issues without a good alignment.

[@scarakus]

Thanks for having this problem, lol, gives me new places to look for why mine does the same thing.

[@jameshall4385]

I had the same problem with a K5 blazer. I replaced everything I could, and had a professional alignment. It was unfixable, I lived with it until it died.

[@ATK111]

I enjoy your videos. Thanks again

[@michaelovitch]

I have changed shock absorbers that doesn't want to expand at all ,while brand new,and even after actuate them by hand in their working position. As i know only gas shocks expand since one chamber's surface is bigger than the other( no rod on one side) so the pressure/surface ratio is greater on one side of the shock,wich expand it. oil shocks doesn't. If you want an accurate alignement,simply use the center of your 4 wheels to create a line parallel to your car (while taking in consideration the diferennce of track width between front and rear),and then adjust the front toe in according to this line.

[@FuzzyDiceProjects]

Fair point! I guess I don't have much if any experience with oil shocks.

[@michaelovitch]

Me neither ,it's just that i saw that they didn't want to expand by themselves.

[@jasonswift7098]

At 7:40 I can see those u bolt brackets sliding up and down that rod with the very bad oil leak on it.

[@MoodyDudey]

Great video! I’m gonna get one for my 2000 GMC Jimmy! Thanks

[@mikenzjs9640]

You should try replacing your sway bar bushings and links ik this can cause some slight movement back and forth on the road this will also improve ride quality

[@jakemedley7423]

Lower tire pressure looks like you have them at max cold pressure, 32-37 psi would help let the tire take some more shock. Also kinda looks like wheel bearings are kinda worn as they jar or walk a little bit when you’re turning during the drive test.

[@FuzzyDiceProjects]

The wheel bearings were replaced two years ago, but the front left one is just starting to get a little noisy (from the crash I'm assuming). The tires are at 32 PSI currently

[@kaedyngraham1860]

Awesome video! I recommend you get a light bar for your cherokee/blazer. I put one on my 2004 Baja and its insanly useful in low light conditions aswell as fog/blizzards. Have a good day!

[@FuzzyDiceProjects]

I wouldn't mind that! When I replace/build a new front bumper I want to stick a light or two on it as well

[@kaedyngraham1860]

Fuzzy Dice Projects Awesome! Can't wait to see that. 👌

[@scarakus]

So you had the frame mount, then the center link must of been replaced before? Edit: bummer on the wander, cause that's all mine does, no bump steer. was hoping it would fix it. I could tell it didn't fix the wander b4 you said just by watching you drive, lol Good luck!

[@kevinheimerl8051]

If the steering is loose... there is an adjustment on that new gearbox that you installed.. I found that out years ago.

[@MichaelB277]

How did you mount a camera underneath the vehicle? Trying to diagnose something on mine and wanted to do that

[@FuzzyDiceProjects]

I used a c-clamp style camera mount to clamp an action camera to the torsion bar crossmember. Specifically, it is a 4" Pedco UltraClamp that I bought six years ago, seems like they are a bit pricy now though so I'd look into alternate brands or just make one. I only had it on there for a short time though, I'd recommend some sort of security strap or wire to catch the camera if it manages to fall off!

[@مزيدالعصيمي-ث3ت]

you are awesome. your overhauling is very clean.. 👍 & subscribe

[@superkillr]

Without reading all the replies, they changed the design a bit. They no longer use a spacer on the drag link side bracket.

[@jamessmith8480]

As always, great video! Now if we can just convince you to splurge on a new quarter panel...

[@FuzzyDiceProjects]

A who? If you look at it from the back and to the right it looks fine to me!

[@TheLincolnGuy]

You convinced me to get this kit for my 85. Out of curiosity did you ever find a source for a drag link with the hole for the stabilizer?

[@colliercleen8998]

Thanks for the follow up! Did you ever find a fix for that annoying door handle return spring on the drivers side door panel??

[@FuzzyDiceProjects]

Not yet, the springs only cost a few dollars and I assume that it just broke or came loose. Haven't looked into it yet however, as my attention has been kept by a lot of other work!

[@colliercleen8998]

I completely understand how the priority list goes. If i do mine in the nest few weeks, I'll let you know how it went.

[@captian1000]

Not sure if you have found the intermediate steering shaft yet, but you should check into Chevy Astros as well. They have what you are looking for.

[@FuzzyDiceProjects]

Yep, that is another common option! Have one of those now as well, but ended up using a Cherokee shaft for this truck.

[@captian1000]

Fuzzy Dice Projects lol my notifications are so off that I had no idea you replied to my comment until just now. Since you have the Astro shaft anyway you should look into using it on the thirdgen firebird.

[@FuzzyDiceProjects]

@@captian1000 That's the plan! Plan to do a video on modifying each of them differently. Probably put another Cherokee shaft (have a few now) in the 1991 Firebird without welding it, and the solid Astro shaft in the 78 Firebird.

[@barrymonroy7138]

I would like to see you put A/C in it...

[@FuzzyDiceProjects]

It came with A/C, but unfortunately it is not going back together. In hindsight, I should have tried to keep the A/C but I didn't expect to have to drive it as much as I have in the last year or so. But at least it is more simple and there is extra underhood space without those extra parts. Besides, the interior vents don't work right and I REALLY don't want to take the dash apart.

[@DS42O]

Dang dude, by the time your done you'll have replaced everything on the blazer. I have a blazer but it's a 01.

[@MAGWolf]

You should get your camber/caster adjusted

[@tokyodragonmasterlee409]

I know what you are talking about on that, just ordered me one

[@MikhailScottKy]

You looked at everything and replaced anything on your front steering the one thing you have missed or neglected to mention that you looked at was the actual bushings on your upper control arms that attach it to the frame. I had the same issue that you're describing with your Blazers Big Brother a Tahoe and can tell you those upper bushings on mine were trashed and I ended up replacing both upper control arms and a majority of the sloppiness went away.

[@FuzzyDiceProjects]

I did forget to mention it, but I replaced the upper bushings a while back, tried to replace the lowers too but the torsion bars are stuck in real good.

[@MikhailScottKy]

Somebody that is good with a torch should be able to heat things up enough for you to get those lower arms out and loosen up the torsion bars enough to do so as well

[@FuzzyDiceProjects]

Yeah, I read a suggestion once about running a steel pipe through the front bumper and using a sledehammer on it and a torch on the control arm to get things loose. If it ever comes down to it that is probably what I will try.

[@SkashTheKitsune]

I hope you're not using those snow tyres in the summer The wear and the noise would be horrid, best to have 2 sets of tyres for your area, the snow tyres and the summer tyres... it's a lot safer that way and more economical to drive in the summer.

[@calebsmith9497]

You need to build a new bumper

[@goblin__king4757]

Where did you order it from?

[@bartprice3439]

How well does damper work off-road?

[@brandonhalmrast]

I too am facing suspension woes.

[@Pabkojdim]

What size tires do have on there?

[@Tigerfire75]

What no new shocks and springs?

[@dandanzoo]

Whats the part number for that? I have a 89 s10 blazer 2 door, just received mine and doesn't have the u bolts and the bracket in box. Thanks

[@stopibeastin7471]

What size tire you running?

[@bobbycole442]

What were your torque specs for the bolts on this aftermarket item? Please and thank you

[@Mono_Jungla]

NIce video , Why do youtube mechanics refuse to take their cars to a pro for alignement ? because DIY ? or what ?

[@FuzzyDiceProjects]

I'm cheap and stubborn, that's the best excuse I have haha.

[@Mono_Jungla]

It´s the last thing on your list , je je . Love all the videos keep em coming

[@cindytepper8878]

The alignment is only as good as the guy doing it. In most cases that is somewhat subpar. Last year we had 3 supposedly good alignment shops miss a bent axle on a 4 X 4 dodge

[@Tailgatesntoolboxes]

What happened to front left fender and bumper?

[@FuzzyDiceProjects]

Check out Episode 11, it is detailed there. Basically, slid on some ice and bounced off of a concrete barrier.

[@robertthompson5249]

I have a 4x4 s10 blazer and the frame mount for the shock isnt there why?

[@FuzzyDiceProjects]

I found some examples of models without that, but I have no idea why some have it and some don't. Have seen some really early model first gen trucks with them and later years, so I don't think it has to do with that. Maybe related to the trim package? Mine is a Tahoe, so maybe that had the option of the stabilizer even though it wasn't chosen on my truck. Just a guess though.

[@danielotero5766]

Help me put a v8 in my s10 blazer? Love the videos they inspire me to do the same except mines is 2wd

[@FuzzyDiceProjects]

I can't help you myself, but there are a lot of resources out there! If you have a specific question I'd be happy to try and answer it, but the 2WD layouts have a lot of differences in the front end.

[@karsongibbs9497]

Wondering is rag joint

[@billybeast3814]

My truck tends to tram line a lot, but is that more so the fault of the vehicle or the road, can i get rid of it at all?

[@FuzzyDiceProjects]

I suppose it depends on the cause! Check out other comments on this video, people have great suggestions on parts to look at in addition to what I mentioned in the video. Some road surfaces are just going to drag you around, but if it is happening almost everywhere it is more likely to be your vehicle. If you have real wide tires and/or aggressive tread you're more likely to feel it more often.

[@gunner1114]

Where is the s10 blazer videos? :/ continue!!!!

[@FuzzyDiceProjects]

I have a lot more footage and stories of it coming up in the future, the series will definitely continue! Just trying to get the current set of videos of the Silverado done first.

[@gunner1114]

Ah, ok thanks for rcoment! :D

[@MrZimmaframe]

So after all this time and work isn't it just easier to buy a newer vehicle, if you ever did this again?

[@lastgood2kiss]

I think buying a newer vehicle misses the point.

[@16driver16]

Why even keep the front sway bar? I dont think it would make a very big difference on the road, and it would be a huge upgrade if you ever travel off the beaten path

[@FuzzyDiceProjects]

It might make some kind of difference, and these trucks had such a reputation for tipping over that I want to keep it for now at least, since I have had to rely on driving it on the road a lot more than I expected to.

[@xalen182]

could u activate the traduced version of ur videos?

[@FuzzyDiceProjects]

I'm sorry, but I don't know what you mean. Could you be more specific?

[@thebiggs1469]

Do a solid axle swap

[@TommyMG96]

Are you gonna fix the body damage?

[@FuzzyDiceProjects]

I had planned to, but as time passes it seems less and less likely honestly. At this point it could go either way.

[@jayceeg8813]

You should really need to get some spacers for the front of blazer so you don't mess up you new tires

[@FuzzyDiceProjects]

A little bit of rubbing on the frame/sway bar won't hurt anything, especially since it only happens at full lock and I wouldn't dare to go more than a few MPH with it turned that hard anyway haha

[@jettywrat]

What part of NJ are you from?

[@FuzzyDiceProjects]

Actually we are in Northeast Maryland!

[@jettywrat]

Fuzzy Dice Projects ahh ok cool, I'm in NJ.

[@audiomaker1]

Get everything as tight as you can and start adding negative caster. You won’t have a good time with the stock spec’ caster and big tires .

[@jacobalbertson9491]

Can you help me rebuild my blazer

[@FuzzyDiceProjects]

I can try to help if you need specific advice, but I'm afraid I'm busy enough with my own projects at the moment!

[@jacobalbertson9491]

Fuzzy Dice Projects can you send me the links on where to get all the parts to rebuild the 350 Chevy engine

[@FuzzyDiceProjects]

Your needs might vary based on the condition of the engine, year/model, and if it has been machined/bored in the past, but here are some eBay links similar to what I bought to get you started: (although I'd recommend some extra parts like positive seals for intake valve stems and a bigger cam than the one linked) www.ebay.com/itm/271449848809 www.ebay.com/itm/251627260819 www.ebay.com/itm/232795269962 www.ebay.com/itm/132285807039

[@weezadodson74]

Is that a fiero steering wheel?

[@FuzzyDiceProjects]

Yep! Didn't care for the original one so got the Fiero wheel off of Craigslist for $20. I like it much better!

[@weezadodson74]

Fuzzy Dice Projects lol that’s awesome man keep up the builds!

[@weezadodson74]

Oh and you should do a fiero project that would awesome!

[@karsongibbs9497]

Excessive amount of thread locker but i dont have a problem lol

[@BuckHills]

you need a alignment your camber and caster is out of spec

[@gavocrazy]

Spray the underside of that chevy with some bar and chain oil. Keep the rust at bay,

[@ti4go]

Where did you buy?

[@FuzzyDiceProjects]

Directly from Rough Country on eBay. Used a 15% off eBay coupon to get the price down to $51 from the usual $60, though.

[@snappybonesify]

Dude you need to save that old oil and coat the frame, steering and rear end in it to prevent the rust. If you got an actual alignment you wouldn't be chasing demons because the aliement shop would tell you what the problem is.

[@spectre2025]

that rag joint is way too sloppy , you can buy a rebuild kit for under $20.00 , takes like an hour to do , should improve steering till u get a solid shaft

[@coreyrowe2052]

If you want to sell it. Let me know. 😊

[@minidragger2254]

Get a real alignment already. Caster is very important in how your vehicle feels.

[@MyLonewolf25]

Just buy an xj steering shaft for like 40 bucks honestly

[@nonsequitur807]

Dude! Caster lol

[@williamallen1667]

completley paint undercarriage to prevent rust

[@ihitmyshotsxyt]

Jack it up and drop it

[@Mikep089]

I bet the box has a crappy rebuild..

[@FuzzyDiceProjects]

Doesn't seem like it, there isn't an unusual amount of discernible play from it even under a load. It is certainly better than the replaced one at least

[@BadReligionQL]

The rebuilt one in my s10 ended up needing adjustment. After the steering shaft, I still had wandering. Made a small tweak to the box. Made a world of difference.

[@FuzzyDiceProjects]

What was the tweak that your box needed?

[@BadReligionQL]

Fuzzy Dice Projects I tightened up the preload by adjusting the Allen bolt on the top of the box, I went 1/8 turn till I got to a point where the slop was gone and the wheel would return to center. Most of the rebuilt boxes just have new seals so they do not leak. FYI mine didn't need much, maybe 1/4 to 3/8 turn

[@FuzzyDiceProjects]

Ah, got it. The box I got claimed to have been recalibrated, but I didn't check on it. I pretty much maxed out the overcenter adjust and bearing preload on the old box and it didn't help, and this box is already better. I'll see if the steering shaft fixes it, I want it replaced anyway since it rubs on the exhaust.

[@buddahsrabid]

you should just try and do a rack and pinion conversion gear boxes suck ass