Van Electrical System Diagrams - Campervan Electric 12V/24V

[@stephenhickman9502]

Hello from South Carolina. From minute 6.30 in this video, I can confirm. In my first build, I started with a 3500 watt Edecoa 12 volt. Mistakes were made😂. My battery combiner box has 5-100ah lithium batteries connected. When I did the math, my inverter draw potential is 292 amps maximum. I ended up using 350 Kc-Mil to feed my inverter. It's a bit oversized, of course, but my equipment is in the attic. I had a fear of overheating the wiring. I will run this until the inverter dies and move to 48 volt on my next build. Between this channel and your book, I have learned more and have a way better comprehension. Solar is never boring. In fact it's addictive 😆 Stay blessed brother.

[@cleversolarpower]

Thanks for sharing your experience Stephen. We are here to learn.

[@bgzwlz5119]

The diagrams are helpful as I know very little about this stuff. I would have liked to see the 24V system diagram, incorporate larger 24V batteries and/or four 24V batteries as anyone who wants to be able to run an AC for extended periods off grid would want to include a much greater capacity! Also, more info & diagrams discussing how a 48V system compares would have been useful!

[@cleversolarpower]

Check all my diagrams here: cleversolarpower.com/solar-power-diagrams

[@mmmddd4366]

Video idea, should i put a fan on it? How hot is safe, efficient and long term reliable. I try keep everything under 40°C

[@yellownp22541]

I just received your book!! Thank you 🙏.

[@cleversolarpower]

Thanks for your support!

[@junkerzn7312]

Of course, if you want to deal with even fewer amps, and thus much much less heat, you could just go straight to 48V. People put 48V + solar into golf-carts these days. I put together a tiny 48V system just last week for a friend. 2 x 75W solar panels, a cheap boost charge controller (since you only get ~40V from that little solar), a 25Ah 48V (51.2V LiFePO4) battery, and the cheapest 48V inverter/charger we could find. And that was mostly just to have a convenient AC charging functionality, otherwise I'd just have used a little 500VA or 800VA 48V Victron inverter. Remember that power losses (and thus heat dissipation) goes by the square of the current. So a 24V system generates 1/4th the heat that a 12V system generates. But a 48V system generates 1/16th the heat that a 12V system generates (and 1/4th the heat that a 24V system generates).

[@cleversolarpower]

i don't recommend 48V for vans. You choice on dc to dc chargers will be limited. You don't need more than 3kW in a van.

[@junkerzn7312]

@@cleversolarpower 12-to-48 charging isn't common, true, particularly if you are only looking at Victron gear. Victron is a bit behind the curve when it comes to 48V gear and they don't have a 12|48 dc-dc charger. A 24V system probably fits the bill better if you need charging from the vehicle's 12V system. Its a bit of a shame, though, to abandon 48V simply because 12V->48V charging is less common. There are plenty of solutions, depending on the wattages needed. The easiest is to just have a small inverter hanging off the Van's 12V system to get yourself some low-wattage AC and then run that into a battery charger matched to the wattage the inverter (and alternator) can output. Another solution is to use an all-in-one. I know people pooh-pooh all-in-one's, I do too... but actually an all-in-one is a pretty good fit for a Van build and generally will be cheaper than a Multiplus II. There are several all-in-ones in the 3000W range at 48V in the $600-$800 range that are very capable. HF inverters (in the cheap ones), yes, but still pretty good. Its a Van build, after all, sometimes its convenient to be light. You keep the independent charge controller (the all-in-one's solar input probably needs too-high a minimum voltage). But otherwise you just get a cheap all-in-one, connect up the batteries, configure the unit to limit the AC charging amperage, then connect the vehicle inverter to the all-in-one's AC input and call it a day. -Matt

[@Supanova70]

Questtion on this MPPT controller. I hae 2 house to start batteries on my boat. Got to the boat and app said they were floating. Showed 20v from 2 100 watt panels 0 amps. When my boat is running my battery monitor shows -1.59 amp draw? Why? The voltage is 14.8 from motors. Shunt is installed correct to a neg bus bar. All house loads are off during readings. This also has a ACR

[@cleversolarpower]

It's the idle consumption of your inverter. If you turn off the inverter, the reading will drop.

[@Supanova70]

@@cleversolarpower i will try ty

[@Fatfreddy7]

Hi Nic what's your take on ac70 blueitti with 2 add on batteries for small offgrid cottage? All up $3,500 usd. Thanks for the great content, I like going over your posts multiple times it cements the info lol.

[@cleversolarpower]

No, I recommend not combining a solar generator. Use the 12 or 24V system i have described here. It will be cheaper and more power.

[@cassiusm2]

Please talk more about 120V/240V and hybrid systems that power the whole house instead of vidoes of small scale 12 volt batteries.

[@linossinkala7840]

Genius clever

[@mmmddd4366]

My van has 600ah of lithium. If i was starting again from scratch I'd go 800ah@48v. So i can run the clothes dryer at night.

[@darrellwalker5203]

Thats dc power it dont pulsate or push far at all compared to ac.tesla made AC power.the.other electrical genius was eddison he was a believer in DC power with these huge dynamo's every so far usally 300 yards.