Vescify your Onewheel Pint! Guide Part 2-3

[@surfdado]

Excellent job again, I wish videos like this had existed when I built my first boards. Just watched this with my son, his comment was "wow, he did a much better job than you did!" 😛

[@nathanmytych6872]

I’m super interested in doing this mod to my pint, thank you for making these!!!

[@WarmasterSidious]

You should have a much larger following... such a great video and edit on it! Thanks for sharing your knowledge with us all

[@SinCityEsk8]

Bro…gawddamn good faaawwkkin job!!! Cannot wait for pt 3. Super well made video 🎉

[@justinfoster6135]

9:25 foot pad wiring diagram 12:46 footpad connector wiring

[@forsakenrider]

Holy moly, what a well done video! I have no interest in Pints, but kept watching because of your excellent video/instruction quality. Keep it up.

[@Plasma_-mf9gh]

Dude! I love this guide! This is something that I would love to due in the future. Your quality in the videos is so underrated! I hope you get the respect and views you deserve.

[@JosiahVaughan]

Amazing tutorial, I can’t wait for part 3 🙌

[@Ireikes]

Not sure if I plan on doing this, but very well done videos I watched them all the way through simply because they're entertaining and interesting

[@rickwon1747]

Great video, can't wait for part three! I'm thinking of VESCifying my Onewheel Pint X soon, so this will help a lot. ➖⚫➖💨

[@FyreDrac]

Crystal clear and easy to follow. All hail

[@andrzejz8316]

Great, very informative video, even with some soldering tips for beginners. Just one thing that bothers me - no thermal issues with this mounting? Shouldn't the controller be installed the other way so it's firmy touching metal controller enclosure with some thermal pad or thermal paste? I understand that controller itself has heatsink on itself but it's just big theremal mass that has no way to dump the heat to rails as in original design. In hot summer with longer ride sessions ( especially with some CnR/VnR solutions) that might be a problem. You mention that flip frAme is better to transfer heat do lid... To plastic lid?

[@TheWillDConstruct]

Keep in mind that the MOSFETs are actually upside down on the Ubox, take note of where the little cutout fins are. That is what the MOSFETs are sitting against. So with Flip Frames, it is actually pressing the main heat components against the aluminum case. And no I have never had the Ubox overheat. Take into consideration that the Ubox is rated for 100 motor and battery amps continuously. We limit battery amps to 35 and only ever reach 100 motor amps very rarely. So the Ubox in a sense is way overkill and has no problem being cooled passively.

[@rapidrunner7986]

Really cool video, keep it up man

[@trevorflanagan4873]

Earned my subscription. Amazing quality and explanation!

[@TheWillDConstruct]

Thank you!

[@wayofflow955]

Nice conversion, pint is perfect for travel.

[@bleedsblue05esk8]

Also from the Northeast. Think warmer weather will be here soon. I’d like to try this with my Pint X. Just not confident enough to try it yet.

[@siegermarc]

great model. done it in resin.

[@iken4041]

HYPE!!! 🔥🔥🔥

[@crappy_fpv]

This video had amazing knowable and was so well laid out I can't wait to see the next part I'm beginning to gather parts now for my first build and this was a huge help

[@TheWillDConstruct]

Part 3 is on its way. But I am working on a lot in the background for future videos. :)

[@drewkaplin6514]

Hey any update on part 3? Thanks!!

[@agl10]

Your build is fascinating. Very entertaining as well! I'm thinking of doing this to my pint X one day. Any reason to think it would be a different process? Can't wait for part 3. Subscribed!

[@Datadog-1]

5:08 I’ve never seen some let the smoke out of a circuit and then go ahead and plug it in more! What was the thought process there? “Hmm smoke, must be working”?

[@TheWillDConstruct]

Well it is said that while plugging in you should expect a spark. But that spark is never quantified. 😂

[@Fungineers]

I love this video. Keep it up!

[@stevecamuti5746]

What wire stripper are you using? That looks great.

[@TheWillDConstruct]

Its some 2 in 1 wire stripper. But it certainly isnt the best, I would look for something more durable. Though it has worked for me for many many years.

[@rickydoherty1147]

These are great. Thank you so much. Is part 3 still coming?

[@Cloud1202]

soon.

[@TheWillDConstruct]

Part 3 dropped 😁

[@otgonchimegbadarch4244]

Thanks for the video. Where can I find part 3 of 3

[@TheWillDConstruct]

Part 3 has been taking a while and I have been riding for the remainder of this season as much as I can before it gets cold. But there will be a part 3.

[@siwoz]

When real part 3?

[@TheBoardGarage]

Part 3 when

[@TheWillDConstruct]

After hydra part 1

[@craigarnett-s8g]

What did you use for front and rear lights? Were you able to rewire the stock FM light bars or used custom strips?

[@TheWillDConstruct]

I used an ESP2866 or ESP32 to control the stock LED's using WLED. Works really well been running it for a year now.

[@lautarogatti]

Will there be a part 3?

[@TheWillDConstruct]

Yes soon!

[@xsh4n400]

Hey there! Thanks for this guide. Where can I obtain one of those ceramic surface mount fuses? And is 60A the correct choice?

[@TheWillDConstruct]

The ceramic fuse I sourced from the spintend fuse that you can add as an option with your purchase. 60 amps is the correct value for stock batteries at least.

[@rileywaldo1580]

What size of fuse should be used? Looks like in the video there was a 60amp fuse

[@TheWillDConstruct]

The fuse I took off of the Ubox fuse PCB you can optionally buy with any of their Uboxes. You dont need to use the specific one I did but 60 amps is a good value for a pack like a Pint/Pintx/XR stock battery. If you are looking to upgrade the battery to something and set the ubox to draw more than 50 amps I would double it or find a higher value fuse. But 60 amps it plenty (double) what you will be drawing from stock packs.

[@rileywaldo1580]

Thank you!

[@JakeItsTheCops]

So my out of warranty Pint just error coded 23. FM said pay us to ship it and pay us to fix it. Don’t wanna do that, rather VESC it. Question then, aside from tuning the VESC; did all work as intended? I’d like to follow this video to VESC my board as long as it worked out for you. Thanks!

[@TheWillDConstruct]

Yeah it's still working for me I've done 5 vesc pint builds so far.

[@JakeItsTheCops]

@@TheWillDConstruct that’s so awesome

[@OnewheelTrailsAZ]

How does the UBOX remain in place and not bounce around if the flip frame is a “loose fit”?

[@TheWillDConstruct]

Because the Ubox is actually slightly higher than the top of the box so the lid clamps the ubox against the bottom of the controller. If you add a thermal pad here as well it will snug it even more. The frame only serves to keep the ubox from moving side to side. Up and down is handled by the lid.

[@LarryLarester]

Hey man, how is part 3 coming??

[@TheWillDConstruct]

Hydra is coming 👀

[@loweffortengineering9736]

no part 3?

[@TheWillDConstruct]

Part 3 is going to be dedicated to the software side of vesc. But it changes a lot and recently I have been focusing on riding with my finished prototype than making videos. But I definetly will make a part 3.

[@JonXuereb]

Why do you just leave the ubox in there as a loose fit and not fasten it down in any way?

[@TheWillDConstruct]

The top lid compresses the Ubox against the bottom of the controller box, so it won't move up or down. The bracket then handles side-to-side motion so it is sufficiently locked in place.

[@xXtillioXx]

So maybe this is already mentioned in the video, but is it possible to VESC a GT with this process?

[@TheWillDConstruct]

Simply put anything with a bldc motor and a battery can be vesced.

[@SamOmary-h9s]

What is your thingiverse?

[@loaffette3860]

for powering the board for initial testing, should I plug thr battery into the BMS then the ubox into the BMS?

[@TheWillDConstruct]

Yes you should plug the ubox in after the battery box is all set. I wouldn't perform any sparky maneuvers around the bms since it is the most valuable part of the electrical system.

[@Sahith_Thopucherla]

Hey by any chance can I use the ubox 80v will it fit.

[@TheWillDConstruct]

It will fit but I have not created the flip frame for it yet. There are others who have made mounting stuff for it though so it'll work.

[@SaiyanEuc]

Is there another controller we can use? The ubox is out of stock ☹️

[@TheWillDConstruct]

Yes use the ubox 80v

[@KungFuFishy]

buh where is part 3?

[@brodyport6395]

when the uhhhh bottom text

[@huff_designs]

he literally forgor

[@SinCityEsk8]

Hey dude, hows the pt.3 looking??

[@TheWillDConstruct]

Part 3 is taking me a bit because I am working on projects that will come after it. After part 3 the upload schedule will likely be faster. I apologize for the slow uploads :P

[@SinCityEsk8]

@@TheWillDConstruct completely understandable. Just broke my pint x down today and started the project. Got the 80v spinted, excited and didnt wanna mess it up. So far 1 and 2 have been a great guide 👍🏻💪🏻

[@TheWillDConstruct]

@@SinCityEsk8 Thank you! This really helps me motivate myself to work harder.

[@cocobailey777]

How did that vesc survive reverse polarity for that long lmao

[@huff_designs]

gigapint video when

[@TheWillDConstruct]

After flip frames 2 😳

[@Kay0Bot]

I would just add a step to de-solder the xt60 on battery packs and orient them the correct way.

[@TheWillDConstruct]

nooooooooo dont want to do that or you will blow up your BMS

[@Kay0Bot]

@@TheWillDConstruct the future motion booby traps stikes again....thanks for the save. Just gonna remove it and sell it.

[@stevenvandenengel5259]

@@TheWillDConstruct what’s the course of action to adjust for the reverse polarity? Do you solder the xt60 on backwards attached to the ubox? So black positive, red negative? I’m confused. Cause you said don’t flip the xt60 on the battery…or do it mean don’t reuse it but use a new one?

[@TheWillDConstruct]

@@stevenvandenengel5259The confusion is because of where the flip actually occurs. The BMS is where the polarity is flipped back to normal. Inside the controller box the polarity is correct with the connector. But I say follow the colors because on all the connectors the wire color is accurate. Even on the battery, notice on the battery pack the red wire (positive) goes into the negative side of the XT60. But at the BMS junction the output XT60 is actually flipped so the red goes into the flat side of the connector.

[@TheArnoparno]

ah i see you ran in to the stupid fm reversing the polarity on the xt60 connector its soo annoying its just a middle finger to end users things like that shoud be super illegal in retail products

[@jacobjones4246]

Could you please go back and add book marks on these videos?