Victron + LiTime 48v off-grid

[@BradCagle]

Affiliate links: Li Time website (discount code: Brad for 4% off ): bit.ly/3UXieSr Victron Phoenix Inverter 48/1200: signaturesolar.com/phoenix-inverter-48-1200-120v-ve-direct-nema-gfci/?ref=JRZm6fna41pidY Victron Smart Shunt: signaturesolar.com/victron-energy-smartshunt-500a-50mv/?ref=JRZm6fna41pidY Amazon Affiliate links: LiTime 48v 60Ah LiFePO4 Battery: amzn.to/47XGdqO Victron 100/20 MPPT: amzn.to/3HBI75S Midi Fuse Holder: amzn.to/3ChoYng Battery Disconnect: amzn.to/49eRqV0 PV Disconnect: amzn.to/3HDPl9t Battery Strap: amzn.to/3u1E8MY Hydraulic Crimper: amzn.to/3MC5AHs Tinned Copper Lugs: amzn.to/3WiPB45 Ferrule Crimping Kit: amzn.to/3odMDS6 Victron Midi Fuses for 48v Victron 30A MIDI-Fuse for 48V products: bluemarine.com/products/victron-midi-fuse-30a-58v-for-48v-products-1-pc Victron 60A MIDI-Fuse for 48V products: bluemarine.com/products/victron-midi-fuse-30a-58v-for-48v-products-1-pc?variant=45533382803752 DIY Venus OS RaspberryPI (The Monitor Screen) build video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/r6eqlYGFj7ZjiNk ================ AFFILIATE DISCLOSURE: This channel may earn an affiliate commission if you purchase products through links I provide. ================ CONTACT: [e-mail] Business/Collaboration only. Please do not contact me for for personal project help, or advice. ================ DISCLAIMER: These videos are documenting my own personal projects, and experiences. These projects, and activities can be dangerous. I am not a professional. You should always consult with a professional. This content is for entertainment purposes only. DO NOT try any of this at home, doing so will be at your own risk.

[@mannyfragoza9652]

Very nice DIY system .The Victron Inverter is not a cheap piece of gear. My next Victron piece of gear maybe a Victron Battery Charger. I like the Smart Chargers, i can down load the app on my tablet. I can basically use the smart charger almost like a BMS. I might do the 48 volt system or 2 24 not sure yet. I dont think i have enough solar to pump up a 48 volt system.

[@BradCagle]

@@mannyfragoza9652 Yeah, I like their charge controllers a lot. I have not spent a lot of time with their Inverters, I need to find a permanent spot for this one so I can get some real usage on it. Thanks!

[@meganwinters5163]

​@@BradCagleforgive me if I missed it; but do you have the information for the oscilloscope you used in the video? I'm looking for a nice field usable oscilloscope Thank you 👍

[@BradCagle]

@@meganwinters5163 Hi Megan, here's the link amzn.to/48gRVya Thanks for bringing that to my attention, I just looked through several videos, and I have totally forgot to link that little guy on nearly every one :)

[@bitsurfr46]

Thank you for reviewing a 48v system. I was getting tired of 12v 100AH battery reviews.😮

[@BradCagle]

You're welcome. I know I'm so bored with 12v systems. I've been turning down 12v batteries, and inverter reviews. I still have some coming in, but I'm pushing for other voltages. I keep telling companies people are wanting to see other systems, we don't want the same thing over, and over. LOL :) Thanks!

[@TackleThat]

@@BradCagle Send em my way lol, 12v x 4 = 48v in my setup. I did finally order my 1st 48v rack mount, we will see how she does!

[@BradCagle]

@@TackleThat I can give them your contact info. I did not see any contact info on your channel, maybe I missed it. If you don't have it then you might consider creating an email for your channel. This is how they contact you to ask if you wan't to review a product. Thanks.

[@junkerzn7312]

Ooh, I'm late on this one. Wasn't ringing-bell subscribed! Now I am. This is great! Nice job, excellent use of ferrules, great job of selecting components. We need more youtuber's pushing 48V, it's so easy to do, and except for the tinyest of systems, going 48V is actually cheaper than 12V. I'm nudging influencers to mess around with 48V as much as I can. (yah, I'm tired of all the 12V videos from many channels too, that are happening because 12V vendors are pushing "free" batteries at them). My notes: * I love the smart-solar 100/20. It's a wonderful low-cost charge controller. For reference, 20A @ 48V is the same power as 80A @ 12V. So that little charger controller can do a lot of work with much thinner wiring and less heat. My go-to charge controller. The next-higher charge controller to look at is the SmartSolar 150/35. And when it comes to Victron charge controllers, always be sure to get units that are "Smart" (have blue tooth built-in), and make sure the units can do 48V (which means they can do 12/24/36/48V)... even if you are using a lower system voltage. Gives you a less costly upgrade path later on. * Note that the 100/20 and the 75/15 (which is even lower-cost but only 12/24V)... those Victron charge controllers have pretty dinky terminal screws, so be careful not to over-torque them. It is easy to twist the screw-head right off. * Great job describing the inverter and amps and so forth at 48V. I was going to comment on some of the wiring but you covered it. * 3 12V panels in series will work, just barely. But 4 is better.. and there is a calculation there for the panel VOC vs the max voltage of the charge controller. Always de-rate by 20%. So a Victron 100/20 really should not have solar going in whos sum VOC is greater than 80V. The reason being that the solar panel VOC specifications are for normal temperatures and sun. In colder temperatures or bright sun (such as sun + bright clouds), the VOC can be higher. So 4 x 12V panels actually might be stretching it a bit for a Victron 100/20, depending on how much over 80V you are. And 3 x 12V panels are just "barely" enough with an operating voltage of roughly 61V (just barely enough for the Victron to operate at maximum efficiency). I've had good luck with 3 x 12V panels in series. * The Victron 150/35 is a bit of a better fit with its higher input voltage limit, but I have 2000W of solar connected up to three 100/20s that have been running great for several years now, and it is hard to beat the price of the 100/20s. I've been using 3 x 100W in series, and typically 3 strings of those in parallel through a combiner box, per controller. Two sets of those going into two controllers, and then the third controller has 2 x 360W residential panels in series plus a few other random conglomerations paralleled in. Three combiner boxes and three controllers total for my little back-deck system. The stuff barely even gets warm during peak production. * Even though a minimum number of panels in series is required, it is always possible to string together smaller panels if space is at a premium. 3 x 25W panels, even work. 3 x 50W, 3 x 75W, etc. (or 4 or 5, etc, as supposed by the charger controller). * Use a 2-pole breaker (and all breakers should be non-polarized), instead of a manual main battery disconnect switch. Those marine-style main battery disconnects are a fire hazard. No thermal trip, no spring-loaded trip, no ARC handling. If it is used the wrong way a bit too many times enough carbon can build up on the contacts to cause it to overheat under normal operating. * Consider using Anderson quick-disconnects for larger systems with multiple batteries, organized in a manner that allows you to rip the battery out by main force if necessary, if something goes badly wrong. Wonderful little system, kudos! -Matt

[@BradCagle]

Good info. Yes you're absolutely correct about companies swamping us with 12v stuff. I'm telling them we're bored with that. I'm getting 48v equipment now, it just comes less frequent. I'm fine with that, gives me some time to take a break :) Thanks!

[@soggyb4082]

I’m really liking my Phoenix Inverter’s. So far what I’ve learned. One is a 1200 24 volt, other is a 500 24 volt. On Econo mode my TV and Xbox1 won’t come on using the remotes, I’ve lowered the setting all the way down and nothing. The 500 watt inverter won’t start my freezer, compressor surges 800 watts. The 1200 will start the freezer in econo mode and works very well. My GE refrigerator 3 door I can’t use econo mode on it either, it has some fans inside that have low wattage that cycle and the light on the Ice Maker flash’s.. I sure wish they made these in 240 Volt and big enough to run a Well Pump. I’m going to get another 1200 watt soon because econo mode is not that important to me that much. They are solid piece. Another great video Brad. I look forward to all your post. Some of these companies need to send you a good set of Panels for your roof like 2000 watts. As I say that would put some (the fire in the wire).

[@BradCagle]

Great info on the econo mode, so seems like it'll really be hit, or miss depending on your appliances. I actually have two complete PV arrays on my roof. One runs my garage system, and I have another that runs some computer equipment in a shed. Probably about 3kw worth ATM. I also have a big stack of panels waiting to get installed. Just finding the time is the hard part these days. Thanks!

[@jasonbroom7147]

It's getting so easy to DIY a really powerful solution. The maturity of some product lines, especially Victron, makes connecting and expanding a system, including 240v, split-phase output, has made it realistic for a reasonably intelligent person to do a lot of the work themselves. Very cool stuff! :)

[@BradCagle]

Yes, exciting times. Also batteries keep dropping in price making all this in reach for most people. Thanks!

[@steveo6034]

​@@BradCagle Tesla just announced that they're buying a bunch of LFP equipment from CATL and they'll be bringing it to Gigafactory Nevada so Tesla can develop their own LFP cells! Exciting times!

[@BradCagle]

@@steveo6034 Man, that's great news! Thanks 😀

[@ATW878]

"Nothing is getting hot" well you are only running 25 amps through 3 gauge wire lol, love the video though! That is also a benefit of 48 volt especially with copper wire being so expensive. If your max draw is only going to be 20-30 amps you could go to 8 gauge wire, save some money.

[@curtchase3730]

Great litlle setup there! I too believe 48 volts is the happy spot for backup or full small scale off grid. Everything mentioned here is valid. Even the inverter needs less heavy primary wire for the switching transformers compared to a 12 volt model. It doesn't have to do as much heavy lifting. One thing I'll mention is that your induction cooktop still uses full power at any setting, except when you choose a "lower" setting, it just pulses on/off like a microwave oven does. I have to laugh when I see people running a window A/C unit off an inverter and think it uses less power in LOW vs HIGH. It's about 30 watts at most difference between low and high.

[@BradCagle]

Thanks!

[@triepiclife]

Great little system Brad, I like it. Been looking at low budget DIY Victron builds for inspo for a boat project I am working on. Keep up the great work / creativity. PS - @11:00 worth looking into a Renogy Boost 10A 36V/48V if you were ever wanting to make 12v panels usable/compatible with your 48v builds without needing 4 of them. Great range extender for golf carts. MPPT Voltage Range: 15 ~ 25VDC / 36V；15 ~ 40VDC / 48V

[@BradCagle]

Thanks! I actually have a boost MPPT charge controller from Genasun. Was planning to build a solar e-bike, never got around to it LOL :)

[@joshhartin78]

Great video! I have been wanting someone to do a review on these 48v phoenix inverters. Hopefully more load testing? I would love to know how it does with that window ac unit!

[@BradCagle]

Thanks! Yes I can do that. It's not hot enough to get that AC pulling the max. But I'll see what I can do.

[@stevenshircliff393]

Great video! You may want to try Cnswipower 48v inverter. I have a 48v 2000w inverter that only pulls around 4W when on. No eco mode. Great quality build.

[@BradCagle]

Thanks, i'll check those inverters out!

[@4115steve]

great video and system. I'm a big fan of the systems you design and the videos you make

[@BradCagle]

Thanks! glad you like :)

[@davebruessow6842]

Yep. I have a 100/20 and a 250/60 charger (synchronized) and so far only one of the same inverter you have there (48/1200/GFCI). I'll probably be getting another of the same (inverter) or just take the plunge into a Multiplus (haven't decided yet). Thank you for sharing...

[@matthewknight5641]

Hey Brad I'm thinking about buying a thermal camera and was thinking maybe you could tell me what would be a good one to get but still at a reasonable price. I see lots of different ones on Amazon but I don't know the difference between them.

[@keithanthony9903]

Really this is an amazing setup and with great products!

[@tiborchren]

I would like to ask you to test one feature of the Victron system. In one video it was mentioned that when Victron loses internet connection, it stores data on SD card and when it reconnects to the internet, it automatically uploads the offline data from use to the system, so no historic monitoring data would be lost. I really like this feature to avoid data loss when offline and online use for a portable solar victron installation or even for a fixed installation when the internet goes down, without losing offline data. And this is something I miss a lot with all other solar systems, at least with all commercially sold Portable Solar Stations. Testing is easy, just turn off the internet for a while and then turn it on and wait if the data comes back to the VRM portal during that offline time. When the data shows up there, test it offline for a longer time. I wonder if this works automatically, or if you need to do some setup besides inserting the SD card into Cerbo or into Rpi. I haven't seen any confirmation or video on this yet. Thank you very much in advance if you could test this feature.

[@BradCagle]

Interesting, i'll see if I can setup a test. Maybe I'll put the RasPi in a metal box (to shield the signal) for a day. Thanks

[@Roll2Videos]

Great video, Victron has some nice products.

[@BradCagle]

Thanks. Yes indeed they do :)

[@tiborchren]

It would be interesting to show a procedure how to connect the Victron system with the Home Assistant application, where the solar system has a predefined solar monitoring environment, it just needs to be supplied with data from the solar system. The advantage of this would be home automation without the requirement to connect cables between devices to turn on/off based on battery SOC for example.

[@BradCagle]

That would be neat. I need to experiment with Home Assistant. Thanks!

[@martijnheeroma5492]

I did that with Modbus but switched to MQTT which is a faster protocol

[@MyDeere3320]

What setup would you recommend if someone wants to be able to run the small home that require a 240V range and AC without breaking the bank?

[@kevinmorris4560]

Can display u have for this 48 v, canit run refrigerator, and circular saw at the same time ?

[@alexanderslee]

👍🏻 for battery disconnect switch tip

[@shelley131]

I have the EG4 3KW inverter but was thinking of buying the 48 /1200 Victron also. Would you happen to know if it can run a full size fridge with a 120V 7.2 amp draw? This is about 828 watts when the compressor kicks in. The EG4 inverter is a power hog and consumes about 1KW of power in idle mode. I wanted something more efficient, but did not want to buy it without knowing if it will handle the surge when the compressor turns on. Thank you and great video by the way.

[@Prof.LamMath]

May I know the size and kind of the base wood board? Would like to get a few for similar project

[@BradCagle]

I've had that board for years, but IIRC I think it's this one www.lowes.com/pd/1-2-in-Birch-Plywood-Application-as-2-x-2/1000066183

[@mariodasilva8729]

Nice follow up to the 2 battery setup!

[@jayholmes8893]

I Love this system that you put together I would like to know what size wire did you use and how many 48 v panel panels can you use for this system Thank you for your answer

[@googoostoned]

Great video. What about the grounding?

[@t.d.harris1311]

Could you easily add a way to charge this with a small inverter gas generator, if there's no sunshine for solar.

[@PoorRichMan]

Inquiring Minds wanted to know how high you could push that 48/1200 in watts. Will it run my 1600w Air Fryer wonder? How different in performance is the 48/1200 vs the 12/1200 or 24/1200 wonder?

[@javiercoronel1169]

Same question and if it will use less or same ah

[@royberger1558]

I'd really like to see this as well.

[@earthenergyhex]

have you ever tried to connect a victron Cerbo GX to a non Victron inverter/charger? maybe not to operate the inverter but at least see it on the VRM portal

[@paulbucknall2435]

Looking to upgrade my system. But how do I run my 12v system?

[@alitomix]

Nice, I like 24v systems, but this give me a hint how a 48v system looks like

[@ShadyPlumber]

What is a small system useful for? Backup power only or is this something people would use on a daily basis?

[@BradCagle]

Could be used for an RV, Van, or minimalist off-grid kind of scenario. Thanks

[@johnmal5975]

So that victron works on a rasberry pie. So I could put that on Linux? Pie's are normally ubuntu linux. If that works it makes victron very appealing. Just not into the phone thing. I am old I don't do phones I find them annoying. Lol

[@BradCagle]

Yes the Victron OS is Linux, however it's a complete OS image built/ported for the Raspi. So you would need to figure out some emulation setup to run it on x86 Linux. I really wish it was just a software package you could load on any Linux, but ATM it's not. Thanks!

[@stedyone1090]

Very nice 👌 👍 😮

[@fvRodRunner]

I have a 36V lithium (single large battery), but I don't see any inverters at this voltage. Can the 48/1200 be used? I'm not using solar, so guessing I dont need the solar MPPT, just want to be able to run 120v off my 36v battery

[@DIY_versus]

You can't use a 48v inverter on a 36v battery bank . There are some 36v inverters available on Amazon

[@Bitcoinsahbi]

Why victron does not have hybride inverter

[@javiercoronel1169]

How many watts of solar you have set up?

[@idk8964]

Hey I'm not sure what people are talking about that "48v appliances are much harder to find" Don't you just plug in regular appliances to the inverter, whether it's a 12v, 24v, or 48v system? What are they talking about??

[@BradCagle]

Yes you would just plug your AC appliances into the inverter, and it does not matter whether it's 48, 24, or 12v on the DC side like you said. Now maybe what they are talking about is 12v DC devices? Like water pump in your R/V, or camping fridge (those usually run 12, or 24). In those cases you just get a 48v to 12v DC/DC converter. Thanks!

[@adamsisernik4556]

In the video, you stopped charging the battery with the panels via the Victron charger before turning on the inverter. Can a battery be charged with solar panels via a Victron charger and a home appliance, such as an air fryer, draw energy from the battery via an inverter at the same time? Can the Ecoflow Delta pro be charged from such a 48V battery via the xt60 input, which is otherwise intended for the input of solar panels?

[@BradCagle]

Yes, you can charge, and run appliances at the same time. Also if your battery is full, and you have plenty of solar your appliance will be drawing power from the solar, and not draining the battery. Now if your appliance needs say 1100w, but you're only producing 1000w from solar, the 100w deficit would come from battery. I've never used a Ecoflow so not sure. Thanks

[@adamsisernik4556]

@@BradCagle Nice, thanx... one more for dummies :) In this "circular flow" does the inverter determine how much electricity it will draw from the battery, or is the battery the one that pushes as much as it can? So Victron can bypass the battery, if only it is full, push energy directly into the inverter with its maximum power, or only into the battery?

[@BradCagle]

@@adamsisernik4556 So this is just a general property of how electricity works. Nothing special to Victron, nothing needs to do any bypassing. The device providing the highest voltage will be the device sourcing the most energy. So if the MPPT (solar charger) has plenty of solar on hand it would be able to provide a slightly higher voltage over the battery, therefor the MPPT would provide most of the power for the loads. Think of this analogy, you and a friend are pushing a car (the load) you are the MPPT, and your friend is the battery. You have plenty of energy so you start pushing very strong, your friend (the battery) just has his hands on the car, and not really contributing because you're all jacked up on mountain dew (the sun), and doing all the work. Then your energy starts to fade (cloud) suddenly your friend (the battery) starts to feel the load, and has to take over, or at least contribute a portion. Now another thing that can happen is your friend (the battery) is not very charged, so he may just be riding on the trunk while you're pushing both the car, and your friend. That's right the battery becomes a load when it needs to be charged. Hope this helps.

[@adamsisernik4556]

@@BradCagle thanx a lot 😁 please, can I contact you by mail?

[@BradCagle]

@@adamsisernik4556 Other than a few replies in my comments section I don't have the time to help everyone via email, it already gets overflowed with people asking :) You might consider joining a solar forum like diysolarforum.com Thanks!

[@malamamakumba8388]

You use any fuse rate higher than 58v ? Like 240v?

[@keithanthony9903]

So Victron has a 75|15 charge controller but I can’t find anywhere in there specs if it will work with a 48v battery anyone know?

[@BradCagle]

Victron 75/15 will do 12, and 24v only. Thanks

[@EasyyokeFilms]

20w idle power??? Many people say they see between 10w to 13w. Is your shunt accurate please? What of your previous shunts the KGF series that you were using

[@BradCagle]

20w in standard mode, and 6w in ECO mode. That is Victron's shut I used, brand new fresh out the box. Thanks.

[@Dave-xr9bc]

this victron inverter can handle 1400w?

[@javiercoronel1169]

Seen a vid where it handled 1300 I believe

[@christopherowens2635]

Your charge controller is 20a maximum. I see you put a 30a fuse between your PV and charge controller. Shouldn’t you use a 20a fuse since the charge controller is rated 20a?

[@BradCagle]

The fuse is for the wire.

[@christopherowens2635]

@@BradCagle Ok I got a lot to learn. How did you determine the 30a fuses? I see you have another 30a fuse from the battery to the controller.

[@BradCagle]

@@christopherowens2635 Here are some calculators explorist.life/category/blog/calculators/ He has wire, and fuse calculators. BTW I use Temco, or Windy nation welding cable. Also I will use silicone jacketed wire. Pure copper only. Nothing less than 105c rated insulation/jacket. The welding wire is 105c rated, silicone wire is usually 200c rated. Bluesea has some good info too www.bluesea.com/support/articles/Circuit_Protection/1437/Part_1%3A_Choosing_the_Correct_Wire_Size_for_a_DC_Circuit BTW this is for offgrid DC wiring in vans, boats, etc. You really need to look at NEC code for anything used in your house.

[@christopherowens2635]

@@BradCagle Thanks for the links. I ordered 100ft Windy Nation 4 awg welding wires. I’m trying to set up a 36v solar system: Renogy 60a controller 1500w inverter 1600w worth of Renogy PV Eco-Worthy lithium batteries. 36v in 12v series I think the 4 awg can handle in short distance. I just need to figure out the circuit breakers to get this going, and your response is appreciated.

[@BradCagle]

@@christopherowens2635You're welcome!

[@BobBob-il2ku]

Since this battery is 3072Wh you can also qualify for the 30% tax credit in the USA

[@BradCagle]

Nice, didn't know that. Thanks!

[@nicholasm2239]

This is great..... but..... this is a good example of what's called the first mover advantage. Checkout Will Prose

[@davefroman4700]

Victron is nice, but you are paying for the name.

[@Bitcoinsahbi]

And yiur own Safety

[@martijnheeroma5492]

you pay for the quality and good software

[@Lordlindef]

Life time DUMMY Up tp max 6000 cyclus?? Wannabes This battery is leftovers from not passed test for EV INDUSTRI so better like me 35 to 45 000 cycluses. And over 1 year use 365 24/7 still not 1 cycluses done

[@Lordlindef]

And thos battery lower cost then this LEFTOVERS SHITT BATTERY UR PROMO