Hobby Cheating 178 - When NOT to thin your paint

[@TableTopFanatic]

5:42 "With a brush that kinda heard about water one time" I laughed so hard at this and I think it is the best way I've ever heard something being described as slightly damp.

[@emilymegan40]

Me too!!! I'm still laughing lol

[@VinceVenturella]

It's the tutorials that bring people, but the bad jokes and puns that keep them coming back. ;)

[@emilymegan40]

YAS! I love all of it, but even if I'm not in the mood to hobby I'm always in the mood for the jokes and puns:)@@VinceVenturella

[@wijse]

Love that pastel green!

[@lunchypoo85]

It is amazing to me how just a small little insight like this (you don't always have to thin your paints) can completely upgrade someones ability. Prior to this I always thinned my paints. Then I watched your vid and tried not thinning (because i was having a terrible time blending and feathering) and now it feels like I'm a pro at it. Thank you again Vince. Nearly all of your videos seem to help me up my game.

[@VinceVenturella]

That’s awesome. Happy to help as always. :)

[@codelicious6590]

Amen.

[@tutubeater1]

This is a fantastic demonstration of both wet blending using THREE colors simultaneously as well as feathering and how to integrate them together as well as a touch of glazing. Every beginner should watch this and also particularly pay attention to how Vince uses a PAPER TOWEL instead of his mouth to wipe the paint off. I only recently discovered that technique and I'm proud to say I'm emerging from the garage much cleaner ROFL

[@VinceVenturella]

Thank you, always happy to help.

[@skunk12]

6:41 "When i have that capability..." cape ability? I see what you did there. 😉

[@VinceVenturella]

Come for the tutorial, stay for the puns. ;)

[@skunk12]

@@VinceVenturella ah ha ha! +1 Seriously though. Thanks for all of your content. Awesome work.

[@xephonics]

I can honestly say that this video helped me improve my painting more than any other and helped me to paint bravely.

[@VinceVenturella]

That's awesome to hear. :)

[@SwashBuccaneer]

Heresy. Lord Inquisitor Duncan will be here momentarily. :P

[@VinceVenturella]

Don't worry, it's in the sacred texts, just in the hidden sections, you have to use lemon juice to see them, Tech Priest Nicholas Cage taught me that. ;)

[@CaptScrotes]

It's almost like sitting in an actual art class and also the teacher is super cool/chill

[@VinceVenturella]

Well thank you, very happy to help. :)

[@karnage27]

Excellent. I have a bunch of cultists to paint, so plenty of robes to practice on.

[@VinceVenturella]

Robes and cloaks are the perfect test to do this for sure. :)

[@WylochsArmory]

New favorite channel.

[@VinceVenturella]

Thank you, very much appreciated and always happy to help.

[@brianfoley4328]

Great video....I learned valuable techniques...and yeah, it makes painting fun. I use to view painting models as a "necessary evil", but now painting is actually fun....Thanks.

[@VinceVenturella]

That's awesome to hear, happy to help as always. :)

[@Valandar2]

The first technique shown is one I first read about waaay back in the days of White Dwarf (sub - issue 100) when John Blanche started really showing us what was possible...

[@VinceVenturella]

Blanche was always an idol of mine for sure. The funny part here is that to an artist used to working in 2-D or on canvas (like Blanche did and still does), this would be completely normal, it would just be the way they painted, but we learn differently and so to us, this is often counter-intuitive. :)

[@johnkelley9877]

This helps out a lot as I knew of wet blending but I was never really sure of how to accomplish it. Thanks for showing how to do this.

[@VinceVenturella]

Thank you, happy to help as always. :)

[@cazer3937]

Thanks a bunch vince! I recently started wetblending and this video really cleared up some questions I've been having😂

[@VinceVenturella]

Awesome, happy to help as always. :)

[@peterlageri4177]

13:15. Ooohhh these little gold nuggets on painting philosophy tickles my creative part of my brain and the dominant part of my brain is soo wired on logic and LEGO drawing and constructions as if everything has to be done drawing by drawing, number by number. This gives food to "paint bravely" and I'm so "but will it get my to the goal" instead of "wow, enjoy the ride." I am so struggling on pushing contrasts to make my brain say "wow" versus "naturalistic" painting. How do I make my logical brain part make "Shut Up." and sit down and paint? I see that I smile when I see my done 3rd edition Blood Bowl orcs and then I think "I could probably do more but I don't want them to look like cartoonish clowns" . This is a ride but how do I tell my self that it is ok where I am? There are sooo way "winds" (techniques) and I am being blown everythere. What course do I take, Oh Captain My Captian?

[@VinceVenturella]

The easy answer is always push the contrast more, it will not be cartoony. The reality is, if you're wondering if you need more contrast, you need more contrast, it's almost universally true enough that it's the rule (until you develop the eye for it). The nice part is, you can always just glaze things back into line and reduce if you ever did go to far.

[@thecollector5887]

Level up, new level achieved, new skill unlocked, "1 thick coat".

[@VinceVenturella]

It's a brave new world. ;)

[@emilymegan40]

I'm going to try this tonight! I've always struggled with blending, but have definitely used excessive amounts water. Thanks for another sweet video!

[@VinceVenturella]

Excellent happy to help as always. :)

[@northofself]

As I'm currently discovering: brush-on primer by hand as well, although vallejo's maybe doesn't deal with this level of "pushing around" either

[@VinceVenturella]

Can't speak to it, I've never really used Brush on primer very much.

[@diverspudph]

You make this look easy. Lol! Thank you for this, Vince!

[@VinceVenturella]

My pleasure!

[@paolofrigerio7280]

Great technic!!!! One thing ti say to you... THANKS!!!!

[@VinceVenturella]

Happy to help!

[@jkyoo8330]

Very effective way of transition. Thanks for sharing.

[@VinceVenturella]

Thank you, happy to help as always. :)

[@jostonpowell1346]

Is there a video on this technique but on 28mm scale ? Absolutely love how much advice you have given the community over the years

[@VinceVenturella]

Absolutely, I have a few videos using this technique on the channel, here is one - kzbin.info/www/bejne/d6CzpHR5aqqlqNE

[@jostonpowell1346]

@@VinceVenturella Thank you Vince

[@MentoliptusBanko]

Wow! Amazing video! You did such a great blend is such a short time. I have to try this...hopefully it will work on small miniatures :)

[@VinceVenturella]

Yep, I used a large mini here just so it's easier to see, but I do the same technique on cloaks and cloth on 28mm miniatures all the time. :) - Glad it was helpful.

[@stuartpriest8868]

Really helpful Vince thanks and yes Bob Ross is basically a god as far as I am concerned ( happy trees). I’ve sort of accidentally learned to wet blend non thinned paints in the same way but haven’t until now admitted to such heresy!

[@VinceVenturella]

Shout your wet blending loud and proud. :)

[@danthonyrobinson]

Nice tip. It is a good thing to learn some "rules" when starting out, but one thing that you can only get through experience is knowing when to break the rules. ;) There's no single "right way" to paint.

[@VinceVenturella]

Exactly true, in the end, it's good to experiment with lots of style of paintings so you can figure out what suits you the best, in the end, we can use so many techniques to get to the same finished model.

[@charlesfe]

I am liking these Pro Acryl paints more and more. I hope they increase the line this year.

[@VinceVenturella]

Agreed and agreed (there should be more colors out soon, hopefully at Adepticon so I can pick them up).

[@darthbretticus9951]

OMG Duncan would be appalled lol😬

[@VinceVenturella]

He'll survive somehow I am sure. He's a tough guy. ;)

[@callum5257]

Another great video Vince! Another time it is good to not thin paint... Two-Brush Blending! "@Ghool's Painting Tips" talks about (and uses) this technique all the time, to great effect. Although I guess this is basically what you are doing.... Thanks again for your work.

[@VinceVenturella]

Yep, this is basically two-brush blending with one brush. I have generally just found it easier to work this way, but you can certainly apply the same tricks to two brushes. :)

[@naphaneal]

I tried wet blending on my Chapter Master's cape. in hindsight, I probably was doing, what you just have shown...

[@VinceVenturella]

Cloaks are a great surface for this and to practice with, they have the perfect shape and size for this technique. :)

[@padrespeaks]

A couple of questions: 1. How thick are pro Acryl? Could this work with warcolours? I heard you mention Scale75, I assume gel medium based paints would be suitable. 2. Is that a red sable brush? Looks kinda like a synthetic. What size would brush would you recommend for something like GW scale? For say, HQ or Character minis?

[@VinceVenturella]

1) It's not that they are thick, if you watch my review of pro-acryl, you will see that they are incredibly opaque and yet have intense coverage due to the ultra pigmentation. It's this combination that makes them perfect for this. That being said, yes, you can (and I have) done this same thing with Scale 75 and Warcolors. The warolors and some of the scale might be a little more transparent, so you might want a thin glaze of the mid-tone color first to completely dry to keep everything more smooth. 2) It's a cheap synthetic brush I got out of a random multi-pack, probably cost me 10 cents. 3) Still like a size 6-8 if you can, as long as it's new and has a point, it will work fine (you use cheap brushes until they don't have their point, then you toss them). But you could do like a size 3-4 as well if you weren't as sure on your brush control. I am working through some Skaven for CB/GD and I am using the size 8 from this video for most of the work, then switching to a small brush for the fine detail.

[@padrespeaks]

@@VinceVenturella excellent, thank you. Once I saw the first minute or two I remembered your video on blends with the Celestine model. They're two very similar videos, but silghlty different takes. That being said, would you ever take the same technique (paints on a plastic palette) but use retarder medium?

[@VinceVenturella]

@@padrespeaks Sure, but minimally. You want to touch your brush into the retardant medium and then wipe it off, then go into your paint (so there is a little retardant in the brush). You don't want it thinned too much, as that will make the paint break when you are pushing it around.

[@AviadMD]

The Wappel is strong with this one! Between a Wappel Marathon and getting my ProAcryl in the mail I've been on a wet blending binge the last week :D

[@VinceVenturella]

Yes, this is definitely a very Wappel inspired technique. It shows that there is always more than one road to a finished project. :) - I hope you are enjoying the new paints, I know I am certainly loving them.

[@AviadMD]

@@VinceVenturella Loving them so far, to the point where I think my other paints are feeling neglected. the past couple of weeks have been just Monument and Oils. Some of the most relaxed painting I've ever had

[@zakhoskins6404]

Dat thicc paint, lol! On a more serious note, have you tried the Mission Models paint yet? I know some gunpla guys who don't like having to use lacquers, but still want a tough finish prefer them thanks to the polyurethane additive that they sell. They also sell a chrome that looks alcohol based like the Molotow refill you reviewed rather than lacquer based like SpazStix or Alclad 2. They run about $5.75 a bottle, but you get a full 1 oz of paint (non-metallic of course). So they seem reasonably priced for a US made paint, but I have yet to acquire some. Maybe next month.

[@VinceVenturella]

I have, the mission models is interesting. I quite like it, but I have only experimented with a few colors, not enough for the whole range. I am going to have to pick up some more at some point and give them a real thorough test.

[@starscream6209]

Hi. Being watching your videos a lot. And i got my first question: My mom has a lot of heavy and soft body acrylic. Correct me if i am wrong, in other words they have a fully filled square and half filled suare painted on them. They are really thick when painting on the figures and even when heavely diluted create thick lines on the each side of a brush stroke. So, how do you convert those paints to GW or Vallejo, etc. consistancy? Would be very glad to know. And thanks for your work!

[@VinceVenturella]

Well, they will never really be that. HBAs are meant to be used differently. If they are artist grade HBAs (which is a question of pigment quality, density and size), then they can be thinned with other mediums and flow improver to thin down and act a little more like traditional paints. In the end, HBAs are meant more to be painted on the miniature, what I mean is that you put a glob on and then you push the paint around on the mini itself to thin it down and smooth it out.

[@starscream6209]

@@VinceVenturella Thank you. Yeah, those are "Amsterdam". Tried to dilute it with medium, add water and add a bit of soap to improve flow. None of that work for paintng. However they work amazingly as a drybrush and create a nice wash. So there is something.

[@damianolandi5003]

I wonder how this would work with metallics, as thinning them down to a consistent glaze is a nightmare. Also, it hurts my brain to think that I might go back to using unthinned paints after all the effort I put into learning how to thin them properly. The horrors I've created with unthinned paints...

[@VinceVenturella]

Great for metallics, I have a few videos in the playlist where I do this with metallics.

[@greglewis725]

Great video! Can't wait to try on my next day off. Have you tried Turbodork paints yet? They're interesting but I'd like to hear what you think. Maybe a product review?

[@VinceVenturella]

Haven't tried them yet, I have a backlog of paint reviews to work through (there are so many) and with Adepticon/CB/GD coming, I haven't had as much time as I would like for experimentation. I will get to all of them eventually. :)

[@markgnepper5636]

Great stuff friend 👏 👍

[@VinceVenturella]

Thank you, always happy to help. :)

[@isisnmagic1812]

Another awesome video Vince , can I call you Vince? Your tips over the last few months ( been binging since I found your videos) have helped me so much. My 40k figures have been improved and I now have a few 28mm models in my to buy list( was offered so why not) I feel ready to go large, thanks and keep up the awesome work.

[@VinceVenturella]

Fantastic!

[@chrismichael2586]

Hi Vince, I'm just getting into the hobby with my son, this seems like a good way to paint Space Marines (Ultra's) quickly but do you still recommend doing a zenithal contrast prime first?

[@VinceVenturella]

I think it's a great way to go for quick painting. Your other options is the contrast paint method over zenithal priming. In either case, the zenithal can help you get a good map of where to paint.

[@codelicious6590]

Good old Bob, RIP; he used alot of trowels for creating lines of different types, I don't think those techniques translate to mini painting, but the happy accidents do to a degree.

[@VinceVenturella]

Oh definitely, much of my painting relies on happy accidents. ;)

[@Xabierum]

Vince, where do I get such big minis to improve my painting skills?

[@VinceVenturella]

Lots of great places for busts on the internet, Mr. Lee's Minis is a great place to start.

[@daniel_tenner]

Another awesome video. I don't think this is viable for me to do yet (too hesitant.. need to put another couple of points into my Dexterity when I next level up, to get that rapid brush control), but it's awesome to know that this is somewhere in my future :-)

[@VinceVenturella]

You can do it! My honest advice is don't wait, grab some figure that you are okay to experiment on and go nuts, it's so much fun and the more you do it, the more comfortable you will get pretty fast. :)

[@daniel_tenner]

@@VinceVenturella Well... I did! Thanks for the encouragement! I posted it on Instagram and tagged you if you're curious to see the result (@swombat on Instagram). I used it specifically on the purple cloak, alternating between purple and pink. I may have used some glaze medium to slow down the drying further, but don't tell anyone :-P Next one I'll try it without any medium at all... I think I didn't really need it there tbh, it just gave me a bit more time, which I ended up not needing. :-) Thanks for the video and for the encouragment!

[@beaulawrence2096]

I'm not sure if you have already made a video for it. But restoring and proper maintenance of brushes?

[@VinceVenturella]

Sure did, you can find that video right here - kzbin.info/www/bejne/moXUfGVujJKBe7s

[@LoftOfTheUniverse]

I use vallejo model color and Air (both model air and game air) but I only use brushes. It seems like I need to thin them, is using a little water okay? What kind of consistency should I aim for? I keep making them into washes or they're too thick. I try to make it loose to highlight the edges but it sinks into the crevice thus defeating the natural (darker) tones when a highlight colors drops in.

[@VinceVenturella]

So the key is never put the water directly in the paint. YOu want to make a little pile of paint separate from your main paint, then slowly touch the tip of your brush to water, wick off a little onto the paper towel, then mix it in, then repeat until you get a good thin consistency. Hope that helps.

[@LoftOfTheUniverse]

@@VinceVenturella Sir, thank you. I've been killing my paints. I owe you a cheese cake.

[@AoSCoach]

I'd love to see a Duncan response video!

[@VinceVenturella]

I too await the response. ;)

[@KalNertea]

@@VinceVenturella With new contrast paints he had to admit that "One thick coat is ok" :D

[@0newingedcrow]

Any chance you could do a tutorial on how to paint a glowing hot metal effect?

[@VinceVenturella]

That is a good one, I assume you mean with a hot core and a cool outer edge or something, like a hot core trapped in the center of something as opposed to just a sword of like lava or something.

[@0newingedcrow]

@@VinceVenturella Like how a sword would look if a blacksmith was still working on it. Thanks for the response! This is so cool, I'm a big fan :)

[@bethanygraham427]

Excellent video!

[@VinceVenturella]

Thank you, happy to help as always. :)

[@acrylicchemist1432]

Did somebody say heresy?!?!? Thanks for the great video!

[@VinceVenturella]

Many, myself included. It feels like a little bit of treason, but of course, there is always more than one way to paint something and end up at the same place. :)

[@gkspain1]

Very nice video, have subscribed, all the best Garry

[@VinceVenturella]

Excellent, happy to help as always and glad to have you along on the hobby journey. :)

[@Sheepdog416]

Great Information! Would you mind sharing which bust this is? Just getting I to bust painting and this one looks like it has a nice variety of textures and surfaces to play with. Thanks!

[@VinceVenturella]

It's an older OOP bust, so you wouldn't be able to find it around except in second hand markets I believe (I think it was called like Dark Warlord or something). That being said, check out Mr. Lee's Minis, you should be able to find lots of nice busts.

[@karnage27]

So I've been practicing the past few nights with this technique. I'm having issues with the paint not laying on the miniature like yours. Maybe the paint is too thin. Its Vallejo crimson red, and dark red. The crimson is going down super thin for some reason (I shook the heck out of it) and it's not blending nicely with the dark red. They are sort of just pushing each other around. Any thoughts? It's a bone mini that has been rattle can primed. Thanks.

[@VinceVenturella]

I have a few thoughts. Any of these could be responsible. 1) Red, especially crimson, is a very transparent color. Lacking that opacity, when you stretch it out, it will more easily show what's underneath. You could solve this by first laying down a glaze or thin layer of one of the reds. Let that dry completely, then do this, that will make sure when something shows through, it's still red and it all aligns. 2) Are you using Model color or one of the air lines. The air lines are naturally thinned and so might not have enough paint there. 3) A larger, synthetic brush might be helpful depending on what you are using. You want plenty of paint in the brush and when you wipe it, you want it to be able to move the paint with long bristles without lots of little strokes. In the end, give it a shot with another color (like blue, which is more opaque), results will vary per paint line and paint color as they all have different levels of opacity and smoothness.

[@karnage27]

Ok, so point 1. It's crazy how "thin" the crimson is compared to other colors in the same line that come out of the bottle a lot more thick. Laying down the base red coat made it much easier. I did notice how transparent the crimson was and I switched to plain old red. Then did some highlights with the crimson. 2 I'm using the Model Color. I do love the air lines. I have one in metallic and it applies amazing.3 The brushes I use are cheapo's. Synthetic, but all pretty small requiring a few more strokes than I think I should be using. New brush on the way.I did try it with black, German Grey, Light Sea Grey, and White. Definitely a difference.Thanks again!

[@dukespaintart1259]

i love your videos , i enjoy everytime i watch it 💪

[@tomkelly2363]

Hey Vince, thanks for the video this one really helped me understand the technique, looking forward to testing it out on my Stormcast! How do you apply this to smaller spaces? For example the smaller folds in cloth around the waist of Sequitors

[@VinceVenturella]

Still a large brush and the same basic things, just less paint (I would use like a size 3 instead of a size 8).

[@joerundell8197]

Good lesson. Sometimes we get so caught up in following the lessons we learn in the past we forget to look at other ways to approach something. Thanks. What figure is that?

[@VinceVenturella]

The bust is some kind of evil general, but I literally don't remember anymore. I believe it's well OOP and I picked it up years ago. Busts are always something I buy because I like the look and save, as they tend to go OOP quickly.

[@StaleDonutPictures]

Nice video Vince! I definitely need to get some bigger brushes, I unfortunately fell for the idea that the smaller the better when it came to miniatures. Do you usually go for synthetic or natural hair for larger brushes? I have sable haired brushes in the 00 - 03 size range, but I was wondering if you feel kolinsky sable haired brushes are worth the money if you are going any larger than that?

[@thumbprintsinputty6168]

As Vince said, it is hard on your brushes. Cheaper brushes are your best choice

[@VinceVenturella]

Agreed, in general, you want a large synthetic brush for a technique like this. Not just because you are hard on your brush and will definitely destroy it (you will) but also because you need real tensile strength in the bristles to push the paint around and synthetic brushes designed for watercolours (which is what we all paint with when we are using sable brushes) are far too soft for this.

[@thebrewgeek]

Very helpful.

[@VinceVenturella]

Excellent, happy to help as always. :)

[@SuperDuperHappyTime]

But the memes told me to always thin my paints, Vince. When has the internet ever lied to me or lead me astray?

[@VinceVenturella]

You have a strong point there. ;)

[@DialetoNerd]

Wow👏👏👏

[@VinceVenturella]

Thanks!

[@LoftOfTheUniverse]

How will I know when to thin or when not to?

[@VinceVenturella]

When you want to wet blend, that's when you generally want to leave it this thick.

[@Tarrasque87]

178 Cheats so far! Love this series.

[@VinceVenturella]

And more coming every week. We aren't stopping anytime soon. ;)

[@dlvnmedia]

Actually it was four paints Vince

[@VinceVenturella]

You got me, you got me. ;)

[@emilymegan40]

There are FOUR PAINTS hahahahaha #teaearlgreyhot

[@frocat5163]

I've tried this several times on a few different models and always get shitty results. I'll stick with something that works.

[@VinceVenturella]

Totally fair, in the end, there are lots of roads to the same painted miniature and the one that works for you is the correct one. My goal was simply to expose people to another option for how they could be painting, but there is no one "right" way. :)

[@samuelsanfratello4617]

"Paint on the miniature"??? Uh... I got confused by this statement. Isn't that the standard operational procedure?

[@VinceVenturella]

Most of the time we are applying paint to a miniature through a single stroke. That is the application and the area. BUt if you think of how we apply paint versus something like how a canvas painter uses their canvas (think Bob Ross), they are applying a large amount of paint and then moving it on the canvas directly, mixing it there (not on the pallette), smoothing it, pushing it around. This technique is much the same. You are applying too much paint to the miniature, then treating it like a traditional canvas pushing the paint around.

[@samuelsanfratello4617]

Vince Venturella AHA! Thanks for clearing that point up for me! This technique sort of terrifies me! Fraught with peril. Our teeny, tiny canvas has lots of details that might get obscured. I love how exciting and challenging this Hobby is! I appreciate your willingness to share your knowledge.

[@jakelilevjen9766]

Definitely seems like something that requires a lot of failure before reaching success.

[@VinceVenturella]

Absolutely! But that can be a fun thing - failure is the first step to learning. :)

[@jakelilevjen9766]

@@VinceVenturella You know it! Scored 9/10 on an exam in college. You better believe I remember the answer to that one question I got wrong!

[@utubenoobie01]

When NOT to thin your paints!!!!!!! What Eldar Trickery is this Vince!!!!!

[@VinceVenturella]

You have to open your mind to the webway portal my friend. We have secret knowledge, and elvish snacks. They are like normal snacks, but elvish. ;)

[@toondankmagician8740]

Couldn't you achieve this with non-think paint and drying retarder so it dries slower?

[@pgabrieli]

yeah, I was wondering the same

[@VinceVenturella]

A great question, the answer is sort of but not completely. Let me unpack that. When you use retarder, you are necessarily thinning your paint. Nothing about it says thinner, but you are mixing an additive into the paint, meaning some larger % of what you were painting with is no longer paint (and pigment), but retarder. So what will happen is you will end up reducing your coverage and when you push and merge and blend the layers, you will show what is underneath instead of having enough paint to keep it all smooth. The thick paint is a feature, not a bug. Now, that being said, if you have a little liquid retarder and you used that to moisten your brush (wiping excess so there was only a little) that could certainly aid this technique.

[@pgabrieli]

thank you very much, @@VinceVenturella! it makes complete sense. I just found (and subscribed to) your channel and I'm going through your videos, and I'm finding so much interesting stuff. thanks for all that!

[@pichofiraviyah8492]

The end result on the right side was too thick

[@VinceVenturella]

Yes, I wasn't taking enough time to smooth out (and had a rough base, as I had painted it a few times already for some other demos), which made a little rough, but the basics are still true and I use this technique quite regularly for smooth results.

[@triplow1]

The one thumbs down has to be Duncan Rhodes.

[@VinceVenturella]

I'm sure Duncan will be okay with just a little bit of heresy, as long as it's getting models painted, I don't think it's against the Omnisaih's will. ;)

[@triplow1]

@@VinceVenturella 😁

[@Lloyger5]

This was my default method before I started watching painting tutorials.

[@VinceVenturella]

Well, this would be the default for many coming from 2-D/Canvas art as well. Then we tend to meet the "standard" within miniature painting and forget all the good lessons of canvas. IN the end, both and many more are valid method for painting, it's about finding your specific style. :)

[@bouncyrou1312]

Duncan is coming for you. He cannot be stopped. He cannot be slowed. Repent before it is too late.

[@VinceVenturella]

Well, he did just advertise one thick coat this last weekend, so he is on board as well.

[@quietside3734]

OMG, what happened to your left hand? Your skin looks terrible!

[@VinceVenturella]

I really need to get some sun on that hand sometime. ;)

[@EkeiShao]

Not convinced at all, it looks somehow dirty and not very smooth...

[@VinceVenturella]

Well, this was meant to be rough and fast, not a perfect blend, it's about establishing contrast quickly. If you watch someone like Banshee work, you'll see he uses many of the same techniques. If you want another look at this sort of technique, here you go - kzbin.info/www/bejne/d6CzpHR5aqqlqNE