Vintage Tech: JVC HR-S 5000 EG (1988) S-VHS VCR Repair & Service ("The REGURATOR Chronicles")

[@alex_2002_1]

Very nice explained how switching works and how actually switching point is. Thanks!

[@raketproductie]

My player (same) would not load play or eject. The knocking on the bottom like you did was the solution😳🙏

[@ДмитрийБелов-с9т]

Видеомагнитафон - это какая-то фантастика в наше цифровое время. Молодец. Очень хорошо разбираешся в электронике. Успехов тебе в твоём творчестве.

[@daylightanimation]

Are you sure he can read in Russian? Ты уверен, что он по-русски прочитает? = )

[@ДмитрийБелов-с9т]

Google translate rules!

[@daylightanimation]

@@ДмитрийБелов-с9т что ж, можно и так....

[@ArnhemCityTube]

Hi, great video! I also did the power supply first. I beefed up the diodes on the HV part, as well as the resistor closest to the heatsink on the secondary side. I have the rebranded, Nordmende v8005 version btw. Very problematic machine unfortunately.

[@gregoryaston5784]

I too have this machine that I bought from new,that makes me old😀.Everything works fine on the machine except for rewind which stops well before the end.It will forward no problem and stop at the end .When I start the rewind button it starts rewinding but stops well before the end.If I put it in play search mode and rewind it it will work but I don’t want to do this for an extended period.Any idea what the issue is.Thanks in advance .Greg

[@nihilyst]

Hello, this is great value in your video! Thanks for that. I have the same machine which I luckily aquired for just 25€ (also, the same german version that you have, as I live in Germany). To my surprise, it still worked pretty flawless at first. No mechnical problems at all! But a real test showed that it had severe problems somewhere in the Y/C section (I assume) because the picture was very dark, with over saturated colors. Almost unwatchable. HiFi audio was flawless. Someone gave me the advice to watch out for those little light blue capacitors as they are known to fail. One or some of the 22uF capacitors in the middle of the main PCB (on that little stacked PCB "on top" of the main PCB) were defective. I replaced all of them on that board (but still not all of them inside the whole machine). The failed capacitors could easily be detected with the help of a little amount of careful apllied heat to the main PCB. The picture would be somewhat better and quickly deteriorated when they cooled down again. Have you had any troubles with these capacitors in your machine so far? Was there any other capacitor replacement beside the PSU needed? Was the Hifi Audio so good without any capacitor replacement in those sections? Again: thank you for your very detailed video. I now feel some urgency to check the PSU in my machine as well! And I definitly need to check the other adjustments as well!

[@Oerg866]

Hello thank you for your nice comment and congratulations on the bargain! Yes, I keep forgetting that this troubleshooting method exists ;( excellent stuff! Indeed I got very lucky with the condition of the machine other than the caps in the PSU. I glossed over the PCBs and there was no sign of leakage on any of them (yet), but I definitely should check them out someday... I use this machine now to digitize tapes of questionable origin that I don't want to stick in my studio machines :)

[@giammyzanna]

I got the same machine pretty much but it has some problems (I think) in the secondary part of the psu. I replaced some caps (didn't have the the two tall ones to replace) in the primary side but still the drum and the capstan turn intermittently. I'm getting like 10.5V on the 12v rail and 4.5 on the 5v rail. Hopefully the source of my problems is in the secondary part of the psu

[@qvvorg8135]

@Oerg866 - Thanks for this great video. Very instructional. Unfortunately for me, tapping on the mode switch did not fix it. Can you tell me how I can get to the mode switch? Do I get there from the top or from the bottom of the VCR? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

[@pasqualeangotti6048]

Salve, dove si puo' scaricare il manuale di servizio di questo videoregistratore ?

[@gabiudrea1604]

Hallo, kannst du mich helfen mit ein SONY SLV E9. Bild und Ton sind in Ordnung, aber es sind Probleme mit Standbild und Zeitlupe.. Ich denke es hat nur mit die Bandfuerung zu tuhen.

[@qwiX]

Great video - One beauty saved from the trash bin. Btw. welches Molykote verwendest du da? ;-)

[@Oerg866]

Thank you! :) Ich verwende Molykote BR2 Plus. Als ich mit den alten Geräten angefangen habe, habe ich mich etwas nach Schmierstoffen umgesehen und die Eignung dieses Fettes schien mir als Laie plausibel. Bis jetzt alles in Ordnung :)

[@qwiX]

@@Oerg866 Danke! Ich habe auch ein wenig rumexperimentiert und bin zufrieden mit Electrolube SPG (durchsichtig) und Molykote EM-30L (weißes Lithium). Nur da wo vorher schon schwarzes Schmiermittel war stört es ein wenig von der Optik und evtl. auch von der Haptik, da sich die letzten Reste mit dem neuen Schmiermittel vermischen.

[@penyostoynev6603]

good job. I can't understand exactly what you're doing because I'm not English-speaking. September I took the same video recorder. a few days ago I managed to try it with my cartridges, it works but there are problems as if I don't know how to fix it. and I guess some problems are with the tapes, too old and not released for 20 years. I will find it difficult to find instructions in Bulgarian ... I don't even have a remote control.

[@DK640OBrianYT]

The original remote control is: PQ10543 There's plenty of them on eBay and they're very cheap. The JVC HR-S5000 was made in 1987/88 and need service. It's mandatory. It's 33-34 years old. Don't expect it to work right away.

[@penyostoynev6603]

@@DK640OBrianYT I was able to watch a few tapes, movies and music, but I think some of my tapes are quite old and they themselves are a problem.

[@DK640OBrianYT]

​@@penyostoynev6603 I received a box full of rental VHS-tapes from the 1980's and they are in remarkable good shape. Even the one with a 1979 French porn movie on it and the film itself is better than most were back in the day, so that was a win-win. I have other tapes that was recorded in the late 1980's and up until the early 2000's. The worst recordings were made when we had a bad aerial (antenna) and it shows as noise all over, chroma and luminance. What I'm saying is: Don't expect old tapes to be a problem by instinct. It's more likely that the mechanics could be out of alignment. Especially the two guides along each side of the headdrum. I've seen them come loose. Almost to a degree that they could fall off. Now, familiarize yourself with a couple of cleaning and re- furbishment/alignment procedures before opening the deck. You'll be okay. There's nothing to fear if you learn how-to. Here are some basics to remove the worst "offenders" in an old videodeck. Remove all accumulated hairs, dust and everything else that don't belong in the mechanics of a videorecorder. Buy a cheap USB microscope and learn the right procedure for cleaning the upper and lower drum. The upper drum contains the videoheads. Don't EVER use cotton tips/earbuds here. Never. Learn to use a piece of cheap ordinary A4 paper for your printer here. Moist it with Isopropylalcohol. If you don't have that, use sprinkler fluid instead. It's just dimineralized water with Isoproplalcohol. It's also good for cleaning your LP/Vinyls and cassettetapeheads. (There's better solutions available, but this is better than nothing and will get you going) When you use paper + fluids, don't push too hard and use the cleaning procedure as long as there's dirt on the paper. Use the USB microscope to see if the wet paper eventually has clogged the videoheads. Check the guides. See if they're loose. Tighten them up. Check if dirt has accumulated up there in the end of the guide rails at each side of the drum. If there's enough, the guides can't be positioned exactly where they're supposed to be. If you have access to modern lubricants, good. Then clean the long guide rails from old black lubricants and put in some new. It can be done using earbuds/cotton tips. The chassis is very well made. All-metal. Instead of modern lubricant here, I'm using grease made for high pressure bearings in trucks and agricultural machines. It has proved its worth because it was bought in 1994 and is still fresh and homogene as the day I bought it. What else ? Clean the fulltrack erasing head on the left side of the mechanics. Clean the audio/controltrack head on the right side. These are the main issues to take care of to begin with. There's much more, but for a start. Don't use oil yet. Go to electrotanya.com and get the full Service Manual for the HR-S5000 and HR-S5500. The 5500 service manual is the exact same as the 5000, apart from one or two changes, that are marked in color. Nothing to fear. When you're more familiarized, then you can lubricate using oils and modern stuff. You'll also be able to take it apart and reassemble it again. Hopefully without any left over screws :D This machine is 32-33 years old and the PSU is in dire need for a capacitor change. This must be the first real repair job you'll do. If you don't know how to desolder and solder. Learn how-to using KZbin. So.....fear nothing. As time goes by, your machine will be in good hands and will be up'n working again. Are you a member of any of the techincal forums, like tapeheads.net, avforums, avsforum,digitalfaq ? I'm DK6400Brian in several of them. Look me up and let's continue our communication there. Best wishes. Kind regards. Cheers

[@penyostoynev6603]

@@DK640OBrianYT You have written to me 9 months ago, now I am answering your comment. Thanks for the clear analysis, but I will give it to a mechanic to repair it. For now, I have not yet paid my technique because I have no separate finance for this glimpse. Soon I will do it.