VINTAGE vs. REPRODUCTION, 1950's Vogue Dress pattern || Comparing Vogue s-4544 to Vogue V1172

[@StephanieCanada]

Thank you for your patience friends! This new software is still kicking my butt (see the glitch at 38 seconds in). If you would like to donate to make more of these videos possible, you can head over to my Ko-Fi to help the channel: ko-fi.com/stephaniecanada

[@WithLoveKristina]

You had me at "I'm nice to meet you" LMAOOO

[@StephanieCanada]

Thanks... I did retakes, but when I watched it back I knew that was the ones i had to keep!

[@Usagibunnneh]

Me: listening to this in the background Also me: realizes I own this pattern and am now listening intently

[@StephanieCanada]

Oh, if you make it up, let me know how it goes!

[@becpennington7470]

Me too. I started making up a couple of vintage reproductions (and at one point I took over for a super frustrated mother of a bride who was trying to churn out some bridesmaid dresses) and realized in short order that they were sad little pretend versions on modern slopes with giant armscyes, looong necklines, loose waists, and watered down style lines. I haven't even opened this one yet.

[@giovanninasuluh]

And WHYYYYYYYYYY are modern patterns so discombobulated??? Put the [duck quack] bodice pieces all on one paper and the skirt on separate ones. Keep like with like so we don't lose our minds. Ahem.

[@StephanieCanada]

Oh I don't KNOW!! I HATE IT

[@dqverify6797]

Last night I traced a dress pattern onto butcher paper; the dress has a Princess seam bodice with button placket in front, and a pleated skirt. So altogether seven pieces for the bodice, placket, collar stand and collar. Bodice pieces 1 and 3 were on one tissue; 4, placket, and stand on the second, and then collar and bodice piece 2 on the last. Wtf, guys.

[@sarag1158]

this is still so much better than the big 3 reproductions. this just happens to be the first video that I've caught of yours that you re view the Vogue pattern I have such a stash of true vintage patterns I probably will never get to the vogue. But you never know. I feel confident that I could alter the reproduction based upon your video.

[@HeyJenkies]

This was real interesting. I’d be intrigued to know what the finished measurements with ease are supposed to be for each pattern. I’m always a little bummed that vintage patterns don’t include finished measurements for b/w/h like modern patterns often do

[@animosity9197]

I love this series so much! It's wonderful to see the minute differences, and I'm SO excited to see some of them made up and compared in fabric, because sometimes these little changes to the pattern really add up to a different garment! I will note (...a year later...) that those differences with the bodice points don't strike me as important, as they should be in the seam allowance. I think the vintage treatment would result in less bulk and trimming later, but that's the kind of thing I usually don't bother with when I'm drafting my own patterns, and rely on the later trimming. I'd rather trim later than wish I had the fabric to play with in the fitting, you know?

[@michellecornum5856]

This was SO unexpected. I LOVE this series!!

[@roxannlegg750]

Re the date: I have a real life copy of the original Vogue spring / summer pattern counter catalogue of 1957, and this old pattern is in there S-4544 $1.50. Page 296, second to last p[age of the "Tailored Dresses" section. The previous edition I have of the VOgue pattern books is 1950, so Im unable to confirm if its in the 1955 edition when it was copyrighted. Its also under the Vogue "special design" label editions.

[@margiecook6379]

Thank you so much! I have this pattern and have been a little intimidated by it! Not now! Thank you so much! I enjoy your videos very much. Your knowledge and your sense of humor are wonderful to watch. I love the top / dress you have on.nthe fabric is beautiful and the neckline is flattering. Thanks again

[@amyjanefrater1447]

I'm getting into vintage patterns and I need to know this stuff! Looking through your videos, you provide a great resource. I like your content and your style. Bravo!

[@believeinfaeries8713]

Your videos continue to be enlightening and entertaining! I’m looking forward to the mock up on the next video.

[@StephanieCanada]

Thank you so much! I will have to build in more time, but I am excited to show y'all!

[@marimba26]

I have attempted this pattern (the modern one)...it has been in my UFO box for a while. It was not a fun project. It will probably be recycled when I can figure out what to do with the fabric (it's very pretty). Also, the '57 version is number 4800, or s-4800. And the art was changed for the reissue (the modern art matches the '57 art).

[@StephanieCanada]

^^This^^ Y’all are the best!! I will see if I can get my hands on 4800 to update if necessary.

[@rachelfiedler1657]

This series is so much fun! I hope you are able to do Butterick B6018 or B5880 sometime as I have those floating around my pattern stash.

[@lauracarrier6158]

Thanks for another wonderful time. This video is very high quality. I can’t even begin to think about how much time you put into it. I honestly didn’t notice the glitch until I saw your post about it. I may need to work on my observational skills.

[@button4631]

Love that you are wearing the liquor label dress and you had me at the bring out your dead clip 🤣

[@marytwiggs7473]

The big four are horrible when it comes to modern ease. It would be interesting to see what the exact measurement of the waist was for the finished vintage dress, since I bet it was less than an inch. When I was learning patterning in school, the average ease for the waist of a dress was assumed to be 1" for a fitted garment. Compared to that, the big four seem to think that even very small people need at least 2" of ease in the waist. So despite their pattern saying it's a 23" waist, I'm not surprised at all that it turns out to be slightly bigger than the vintage 25" waist. There's probably about 2.5" of ease in the modern pattern :/ Shame that it ruins the proportions and fit expected of a fifties silhouette.

[@redwitch95]

Oh, that's genuinely really interesting! Is it only the waist that the Big Four give excess ease, or are there other areas commonly given additional ease compared to dressmaking/tailoring standards?

[@StephanieCanada]

This one must've been bad, because they had the same seam allowance and not drastic notation for gathering in the waist. I just can NOT comprehend the modern big 4.

[@giovanninasuluh]

Came here to say the same thing. Modern patterns have SO much wearing ease.

[@SalindaNichols]

Yes! When I first started sewing I was so confused as to why my garments were coming up huge! So frustrating, but it's been good for learning

[@SalindaNichols]

lmaoo what an opening! I'd be sold if I wasn't already 😂 wonderful comparison video as always!

[@mladeau2105]

Yay, your wearing your liquor label dress

[@StephanieCanada]

Thank you! it is still one of my favorite makes.

[@brennathompson1855]

As someone with a natural 23" waist, I accepted long ago that no modern Big 4 pattern will fit well. I now sew almost exclusively from vintage and indie patterns, which are more likely to be true-to-size.

[@katecapek3116]

I don't know what you've done, but your skin is amazing.

[@StephanieCanada]

Aww thanks! This is just my makeup look. I am actually going to start going sans makeup for most of my videos. Because a lot of times it stops me from recording.

[@daxxydog5777]

Good for you, Steph! I personally have a hard time even going to the beach or pool without at least mascara. And I can forget going to the grocery store sans makeup and lips on, especially ever since I ran into an ex that I wanted to make sorry he &*cked up that relationship, and THANK YOU GOD I had on lipstick and a cute shirt.

[@bjohnson9221]

You are hilarious...the sarcasm is absolute perfection...AND!! You are informative, talented, therefore, I had to sub! Great day to ya, eh? Not from Canada, either, lol!

[@StephanieCanada]

Thank you so much, eh! Glad you are here.

[@bjohnson9221]

@@StephanieCanada 😁👍

[@lindafraser2044]

I purchased the repo only because i was intrigued by that fantastic collar... only to realise after it was a hat... 🤦‍♀️🤣 In my defense, i got it of eBay and was using my phone so the pics weren't real great, but i do feel just a touch silly! 😝😂

[@AdventuresInLife2012]

Super cute dress!

[@BeverleyButterfly]

I love these videos it’s insane how different they are you would think they would be the same xx

[@zephiel70]

Stephanie you're so cool xD Keep up the good work.

[@dragonchild569]

I know this is a very late comment, but I wonder if it would be better to compare finished garment measurements rather than body measurements since I'm sure wearing ease has been changed as well.

[@TuesdaysArt]

As a fellow Floridian, I would greatly appreciate a video on keeping cool in vintage fashion (assuming you haven't made one already) because I want to dress vintage but I would get heat exhaustion if I wore the outfits made by some of the larger vintage KZbinrs.

[@MissJay4258]

Hi, I'm in Tampa. I could do a rant on patterns and fit. So frustrating to measure carefully and the garment doesn't fit. At least I figured out how to alter a pattern for my square shoulders.

[@StephanieCanada]

Waves hello from the Mouse area! I am glad you have figured out the fit issues for yourself. I mean, I wish we could all buy pattern and not have to adjust, but sadly that also doesn’t make much financial sense. But yeah, some of these changes were annoying!

[@MissJay4258]

@@StephanieCanada Patterns are just a guide to the design. We aren't told we should make a "sloper" that is our shape and use it to adapt the pattern. Couture runway clothes are poorly made and don't fit either.

[@stevezytveld6585]

You're doing CoSy (Costume Symposium) on The You Tube, August 19-22, 2021, yes. - Cathy (yadda, yadda, Steve-guy), Ottawa/Bytown

[@StephanieCanada]

Sure am!!

[@stevezytveld6585]

This was fun. And yay to mock-ups being started.

[@stevezytveld6585]

@@StephanieCanada Yas!

[@JenInOz]

I recently made a 1952 butterick pattern that has a belt that shows in the cutting layout but NO measurements or are given anywhere in the instructions sheet.

[@b7151ng37]

Hi Stephanie, thank you for your wonderful channel. Love your energy and whit, you make me smile every day. I have a quick question though, you talk about using an appropriately dated sewing book to assist you with vintage patterns so would your ebook 1940's Shortcuts to Sewing help with that? Thank you again for the channel and I hope everything works out for you soon Sending you love and positive thoughts

[@StephanieCanada]

Hi Elaine, thank you so much! You are so sweet! And yes, if you are looking to sew 1940-1950’s then the Shortcuts to sewing would work quite well. If later than that I would aim for a mid-late 50’s book.

[@debe8890]

It is my understanding that a copyright date is when the patent was issued not when the item was manufactured. The reproduction date of 1957 may refer to when the pattern was originally released and not meant to be the patent date.

[@amiedavis5257]

I want to know what DIVINE shade of lipstick you are wearing as well as brand.

[@giovanninasuluh]

Commenting along as I watch... 12:51 Bodice Seems to me that the reason why the bust is so different is because the repro is meant to be worn with modern undergarments a la WonderBra rather than the "lift and separates" vintage style. I'm not surprised at the armscye difference. Modern patterns are so different under the arms. It's bizarre.

[@StephanieCanada]

I would agree, that is why I made sure to mention it this time. I always forget to mention it in these videos. 😀

[@FlickiChicki]

The modern is based on S-4800 from 1956. I had both S-4544 and S-4800 and didn't see any difference, but as ever, used the modifications from Grandma.

[@awhitney1051]

Maybe it is the difference between modern and vintage bras?

[@rd6203]

I just worked with my first vintage Vogue and the wonkiness of it made me question why people pay so much more for them... I thought it might have been water damage or something, but your curved fold line suggests it's not abnormal. Also, their paper 😬

[@StephanieCanada]

Vintage Vogues are NO JOKE! That are very detailed and their tissue sometimes does warp (which doesn't help). I hope your garment ended up great!

[@ivoryhenson1285]

What's wrong with their paper?

[@rd6203]

@@StephanieCanada Too small, but I knew that was probably the case. I was crossing my fingers that since it's a fairly loose top, I might not need to size up, but 🤷🏽‍♀️ It is cute, though and I am excited for the "ensemble" I've got planned 😁

[@rd6203]

@@ivoryhenson1285 I've only got the one so have no basis for comparison, but it hasn't aged evenly, if that makes sense. Also it's very fine, as if it was only ever intended for a single use.

[@emilyhunter666]

Is it just me or do those dark blue pattern weights with the white buttons look like grumpy sunflowers?

[@cathymatthews5147]

I think it was the front piece - there was a place that dipped in 1/8" - maybe a cutting error of original owner.

[@MendyLady]

(You are Number One)

[@StephanieCanada]

Thank you so much!

[@lizcademy4809]

"I am not a number! I am a free man!" I loved The Prisoner.

[@SalindaNichols]

@@lizcademy4809 want expecting a prisoner reference in the comments of this video but I am here for it! Love that show!

[@rd6203]

❤

[@Lolibeth]

The modern one uses a larger wearing ease while the vintage one assumes you're wearing a girdle so it has a closer fit. Modern patterns add a LOT of wearing ease alas 😕

[@thomchapman2352]

love you like the red hair just sayn

[@lawrencejlittle]

My biggest concern when making vintage dresses for my wife is most aren’t for plus size women. Her bust = 44”and hips 48”…made like a true African-American woman

[@EphanyasisOwleyes]

Vogue 1671 is a B to do I know I sewed it for a sewing competition

[@lizcademy4809]

Compared to the other Big 4, this pattern was nearly spot on! It's clear Vogue was trying to follow the vintage pattern itself. As for the waist, could the 23" on the modern pattern be a misprint? On the vintage, the hip was 8" larger than the waist, on the modern, it's 9 1/2". On most of the size guides I've seen, modern waist to hip differences are smaller (straighter figure) than vintage. If the 23" is a typo, it would explain some of the differences.

[@StephanieCanada]

Oh it sadly is not a misprint. This is “standard sizing” from modern pattern companies and the sizing hasn’t changed since the 1970’s. It is really quite sad.

[@melissaroscher1080]

Have you run into any fans from Canada visiting Florida? (She says half joking)

[@StephanieCanada]

Not yet, but mercy, wouldn't THAT be funny!

[@roadrunnercrazy]

@@StephanieCanada I'm a fan from Canada, but I've never been to Florida. I'll just have to wave from the comment section. 👋

[@jolynnwhite7946]

Oh lady please bring out the VOUGE Patisserie Originals so expensive and not reproduced. Please treat us to your collection if y love and own or have access 🏳️‍🌈🏳️‍🌈🏳️‍🌈🧕🏿👌🏾👍🥰

[@StephanieCanada]

I mean, I have shown off the patterns I personally keep. I figure if folks want to check out the other rare patterns they can look at the images I provide on my website.

[@jolynnwhite7946]

🧕🏿👌🏾👍🥰😇😍😁😝

[@artemisarojas9999]

I know you're going to want to kill me. But (whisper in ear) I watch your videos to see if I can get the modern versions. Because I can't afford the vintage ones. Sorry.

[@StephanieCanada]

If you would’ve told me that after my original rant I would’ve responded differently. But now, GO FOR IT! That is why I try to make these as detailed as possible. I want EVERYONE to enjoy sewing!