Vlog #19: "The Motor..." (2017)

[@kpkkids]

Kevin, Thank you for the video. I installed the steering cables the same way you did with the little brass inserts. Not only do they protect the tubing going through the kayak but they also prevent the tubing from going back inside the kayak. I did not have to melt and mushroom the tubing. Great idea. I was going to use cable and then decided to use string trimmer cord .95 in. This way there in no corrosion problems and no sawing effect from the steel cable. I'm sure the trimmer string will last a long time and if not it only takes about 15 mins. to replace it. Thank you Joe B.

[@jimfachini1635]

The "ring" around the shaft that has the 4" long eye bolts attached is called a shaft collar.

[@00708046]

Cavitation is when the motor is pulling air down around the prop preventing the prop from pushing against water. Basically spinning in air bubbles . By lowering the prop it becomes too deep to pull air down to it.

[@chriscampbell1456]

Might I highly recommend using UHMWPE Cord (a.k.a. Dyneema cord) for your steering cables. It's super slippery and glides through the tubing like butter, super strong, will never rust, and comes in different sizes/strengths depending on your needs, and comes in different colors to go with your kayaks color pattern ( for those who like the matchy matchy look). I use the black 2.5mm UHMWPE, it has a breaking strength of 1500lbs.!!! And it comes in spools. (I got a 50 ft. spool for $20 on Amazon) Steering is so smooth compared to steel cable. Like I said it can't rust and I also don't get the "hacksaw" effect so much if at all. I've had mine in my kayak for 4 seasons now. As far as cavitation, you have to think the major trolling motor companies (Minn Kota, Motorguide, Newport Vessels, etc) design and test these motors with full sized boats...not kayaks. Kayaks sit much higher in the water and have a more efficient hull design for water to slip through/under causing less turbulence in the water by the time it hits the trolling motor. And you have to consider boats trap more air under them as they "cut" through the water that in turn comes out the back whereas, kayaks " burp" the trapped air up through the scupper holes so very little ,if any, air gets to the prop in the form of turbulence. Hence, on a kayak the "1 foot rule" don't really apply and the proper depth is more related to your kayaks hull design and how it handles/channels the water. My one kayak only needs the tip of the prop in a vertical position 5" below the water surface, my other kayak needs 9" below. The first one is a catamaran style hull, the second is "veed" front with a flat bottom. Just my 2 cents on the subject. Anyways, SERIOUSLY try the UHMWPE cord and make us a video of what you think of the difference. Good video and explanations.

[@RedfishInc]

You can buy vinyl coated corrosion resistant steel cable. Might be a better option for your steering cables.

[@anthonygrijalva5156]

You can get a plastic sleeve that goes over the cable and it can run the length to reduce the friction or sawing action for the holes

[@creightonstephens5888]

Perhaps a piece of small pvc from hole to hole, tipped with stainless grommets. Sealed with silicon. Would solve the water leakage problem sealed on both ends.

[@creightonstephens5888]

Thanks! Building my first kayak and this info is invaluable.

[@luckyduck6671]

I would wire the two I bolts to gather should stop them from bending

[@Eric-gi9kg]

Hey Kevin... Great video. The reason you don't get any extra speed or thrust out of the 3 - blade propeller...is that the blades flatten out. Each blade does not keep the Full Pitch ...there fore it wont increase speed, but will actually rob your battery of power. If you were able to manipulate each blade of the prop to keep the pitch from base to tip....you will have a much higher efficient prop...Plus you would increase your Top End. This will also increase your battery life.

[@badmofo350]

That would be less efficient because only the tips would be making any thrust and the rest would just be causing drag. All props have that twist in them to keep the load spread across the whole length of the blade. The tips of the blades are traveling much faster than near the hub.

[@paulclare6589]

I think bicycle cable and casing would work also,keeping the cable well lubed will help friction and rust issues.

[@ohu8one221]

Just thought of something on the two eye bolts bending on you. If you tie them together with a ratchet coupler bolt or a couple of nuts with a small plate from one to the other it would make them stronger doubling the strength. On the brass connectors for the steering wire, you can use stainless rivet nuts and once you tighten them up take the screw out and run the cable through them. Great job, just tossing out some things I ran into with my tracker topper buildout.

[@scottburgo9778]

Kevin do you have the plans or can you do a video on the mount ?

[@jimv1484]

Nice work! My only question is.....does water get in your rigging holes? If so does it sit in the belly of the yak or just come down the tubes and end up on the floor of the yak?

[@fliguy43]

They make those cable with plastic coating over them just thought id let ya know in case you've never seen it

[@beno9916]

Hey.. Love this project but to make it better because of the situation of the propellers you could make a easy release pin to for example your on the water with the 2 bladed prop and are going to somewhere with rocks and strong fish you can just lift the motor and change the prop to the 3 bladed one and when you finish change back! I think it would be a good addition to your already amazing kayak

[@KevinBullington]

+Beno Yohros thanks for the tip buddy!!!

[@beno9916]

Kevin Bullington your welcome

[@xSUPERoMANx]

You could use bicycle brake cables instead. This way you can completetly seal the holes and never worry about wearing anything out on the Yak.

[@A.Blair_Fishing]

Using your setup on my Bonafide SS127. Nice video man subbed ya!

[@acutt5512]

Awesome setup but i had a couple thoughts come to mind while watching it. Have you considered vinyl coated cable or stainless cable? My other thought was when you were talking about your eyebolt experimentation, the idea i had was one long continuous cable that wrapped around some kind of pulley or something mounted on the shaft. Wrap the cable a full turn around the pulley or whatever. Just a thought, does that even sound feasable to you?

[@TahoeYakFisher]

I wonder if you might check out my set up, I decided on a "false transom" premise based on your vid but solved a couple problems, like lifting the motor and synthetic cable, that you might like. Tell me what you think.

[@lojofishing]

Dude this was such an interesting project. I have a Jackson Big Rig and have been wanting to motorize it with a trolling motor but it is such an intimidating task. Did you find these plans somewhere or did you just come up with it on your own.

[@KevinBullington]

+lojo.fishing thanks, I took many of the concepts from other projects I've seen on the internet.

[@jeffkersbergen5001]

Cavitation is also very noisy. Cavitation can be caused by the low pressure area on the blade causing the water to boil essentially making bubbles.

[@KevinBullington]

+Jeff Kersbergen great info man!

[@albertlopez7128]

You a DIY on the bracket you made to mount trolling motor to?

[@billsview]

Yes... we all want this!!!

[@mikewest712]

Wow, you have laid the track for the rest of of us, thanks. I would have expected your runtime to be around 5 hours, have you considered upgrading batteries?

[@betavinasmokewolf9890]

Great vid. Just an idea to throw out there. Maybe cover the cables with paracord? It may reduce the friction inside the inserts. Just take the inners out of the paracord. Hope this helps. Can't wait to see some fishing vids.

[@KevinBullington]

+Smoke wolf (Bass Assassin) good idea! 👍🏻 also, I'll try and get some more fishing vids out for you guys!

[@betavinasmokewolf9890]

Kevin Bullington thanks. Right on bro!

[@georgetollefsen994]

Do you have a wiring diagram? And parts list ?

[@Bigsmegma44]

Like your videos a great deal. You speak clearly and to the point which is missed by some others. To reduce or eliminate the rust, why not try braided cable that has a plastic sheath?

[@KevinBullington]

+Bigsmegma44 thank you very much for your comment! I honestly didn't think about that... my concern would be the friction caused inside the tubing would make it difficult to steer...

[@Bigsmegma44]

The one side looks worse than the other. You could try it and see if it's an issue? The black tubing sounds good but if the plastic sheathed cable reduces or eliminates the rust. Why not try it without the tubing? Good luck!!!

[@goodlife6942]

You mind linking the housing tube info.

[@dirktucker77]

What battery do you use? How many hours you get out of it? What's the motor, 30lb? Thanks

[@joemartin6439]

Cavitation in the cause where motor head is to high creating air bubbles

[@acutt5512]

Oh and why not replace your brass inserts with a piece of 1/4" ss tubing?

[@joebuchanan6806]

Do u get water in the hull with the holes in the back

[@kevhan8601]

Hey Kev, do you know what metal that collar is made of ? Stainless, Brass, etc..

[@KevinBullington]

+Kev Han I wanna say it's brass... but not completely sure

[@jasmany19]

Excellent channel!

[@ricardoquezada3109]

Honestly I have a kayak a Jackson Koosa HD and it is terrible to keep in place in wind and trolling motors are expensive and my mom has to help me carry it and it's too heavy for her a motor wouldn't help I might have to figure something out I can't afford a bass boat I might get a john boat

[@KevinBullington]

+Ricardo Quezada have you tried an anchor?

[@ricardoquezada3109]

Yes but here in South Carolina we have muddy bottoms and I have bought different anchors in I catch like 10 bass a year and I'm hardcore into it

[@justin-time1479]

how do you swing the prop out of the water from the seat of your kayak?

[@KevinBullington]

+j m I chose to not build that into the kayak because I didn't want extra cables and pulleys on the deck of the boat. It could however be accomplished relatively easily if you desired that feature....

[@JamesWilliams-nw5cf]

James Williams Great job Kevin, I'm currently trying to install on PA14. Could you provide me with pn, and type of tractor the bushing came from? I've had no luck and it's quite costly to have fabricated. Thanks

[@tonystanley7956]

Hi Kevin. Tony Stanley. Melbourne Australia here . Could I please have the Manufacturer of the Variable Speed Controller suitable for a Trolling Motor. I have fitted one to a Point 65 Dual seater. Many Thanks

[@weaselburpoutdoors4668]

Do you plan on Reviewing the New Booyah Prank Popping/Crank?

[@KevinBullington]

+WeaselBurp Outdoors probably

[@kennetholavarria8044]

Good job why don't you try PARA CORD

[@ryansharpe9234]

Thanks for the video! I just bought my first fishing kayak ( Jackson Big Tuna ) last weekend and about to put a Minn Kota c2 on it. I'm going to try and implement the foot pedals to steer the motor. I like the idea of the brass tube and I may very well use it in the future. I was at home depot today and found this ( www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-1-16-in-x-250-ft-Galvanized-Vinyl-Coated-Wire-Rope-806370/203958870 ) I have high hopes for the vinyl coating not eating the tube on my kayak. What are your thoughts about this?

[@HDpbReviews]

Does the motor ever get clogged from Lilly's ?

[@KevinBullington]

+Dylan Falso that's tough for me to say. The places that I fish with the motor are not covered by many weeds or lilies so I haven't had much experience with clogging. From the small amount of exposure the motor has had to weeds, it has done fine. I hope that helps.

[@gamerp.r.gamerp.r570]

cuantas horas dura la bateria con en trolling

[@buckfifty3470]

Approx. tres horas.

[@topcat8820]

Great info Thanks bro

[@APRAPR-nq2wn]

very nice job

[@00708046]

You really like to play with your cables and grommet .

[@Rh2868]

Is your real name Matt Damon?

[@KevinBullington]

+Ron Hildebrant yes, it is! Lol. I heard that a lot...