Voltlog #38 - 60W Electronic DC Load Review ZPB30A1

[@stevemacbr]

I had bought one if these ACTIVE LOAD UNITS purely on the (eBay listed) specifications,... and it came with NO documentation. - I was just going to do some user-manual searches,... and choose YT first for any content - I picked your review first due to quality & length,... I wasn't disappointed !!! . .

[@voltlog]

thanks man!

[@pepper669]

A piece of dark red translucent plastic would make the LED display more readable. Good review!

[@dalenassar9152]

...or a thin red piece of 'red' electrical tape. They both make world's of difference on these videos. I haven't tried semi-crossed polarizes yet.

[@ChrisMower]

Thanks for the info, I had been looking for documentation on this unit but you covered everything very comprehensively. It's an excellent piece of equipment at a very good price. I was very impressed with the build quality too.

[@voltlog]

yup, pretty good. I recently got the 110W model, also very nice.

[@405line]

Many Thanks, had one of these for a while and had no idea ho to use it...until now. Cheers

[@voltlog]

thank you!

[@kbmblizz1940]

Thank you! You taught me how to use this 60W load tester. There were no instructions in the box.

[@javierpallalorden]

Very nice review, thank you, the big drawback for me is the 0.2Amps minimum load, I often use a dummy load but sometimes I am under 200mA for the circuit under test. Nonetheless worth buying it.

[@voltlog]

+Javier Palla Lorden seeing how successful this thing is I wouldn't be surprised if the original author released an upgraded version soon. I'll keep an eye out on taobao.

[@johnconrad5487]

why would u need a dummy load for under 0.2Amps? use a simple resistor. be practical instead of coming up with these extreme requirements. do u also want perhaps 0.005 amps at 1KV?

[@jasonlaverty76]

Just received one on your recommendation and I will be tinkering this weekend to see how I can implement it into my amplifier projects. Excellent video and Im now subscribed. Cheers.

[@voltlog]

thank you!

[@mojojomo6750]

Great review. I concur with your conclusion - I bought one of these as well! But I would love to see someone produce something of this quality & price that offered a constant-power mode. That would be incredibly useful, but it appears you need to pay $500+ for this functionality.

[@voltlog]

yes, when you start needing features you need to go pro and get a real electronic load, they start at around $300 look at Itech and Maynuo.

[@solo1953]

This is the best test I have seen on YT. Greetings.

[@timterry8714]

Yes I agree an excellent detailed review with good background information and real world testing of the parameters.

[@voltlog]

thanks!

[@surgingcircuits6955]

Sharing my operation notes: Voltlog #38 - 60W Electronic DC Load Review ZPB30A1 Operation Notes From Video… System Powered Separately - Barrel Plug, 12v, 500mA minimum available, pin = "+" / ring = "-" IMPORTANT: Unit remembers the last state it was in. If you power OFF while it is in a RUN state, it will immediately RESUME the next time you use it - POSSIBLY DAMAGING WHATEVER IS CONNECTED NOW! • ALWAYS STOP THE RUN BEFORE POWERING OFF THE UNIT 2-Wire & 4-Wire Voltage Detection "Whenever you need an accurate voltage measurement, you need to use a second set of wires just for measuring voltage, right at the load (battery) terminals. This will eliminate the error introduced by the voltage drop caused by heavy currents running through the main wires." Power-Up Modes and RUN: • Adding power, unit will return to it's last state ---!!! • Hold the tactile momentary RUN switch, then add power to power up into either Function-1 or Function-2 modes ◦ Turn dial to select the desired mode / Confirm by pushing tactile momentary RUN switch ▪ Function-1 = (Constant Current Dummy Load Mode, Alarm Option, but no Auto-ShutOff @ min voltage) ▪ Dial to set alarm/buzzer On/Off, tactile momentary RUN switch to confirm ▪ Turn and push dial to select Volts, 1/10th Volt, 1/10th Amps, 1/100th Amps ▪ Function-2 / (Dummy Load ModeWith Ah/Wh Reports, Alarm Option, and Auto-ShutOff) ▪ Dial to set Auto-ShutOff, tactile momentary RUN switch to confirm ▪ Turn and push dial to select Volts, 1/10th Volt, 1/10th Amps, 1/100th Amps • Confirm/RUN by pressing the tactile momentary RUN switch Stop RUN • Press tactile momentary RUN switch ◦ You now have the option to change settings in the mode you are in

[@voltlog]

thanks!

[@BikesBlades]

Maybe someone else has already mentioned this, but it's difficult to get an accurate infrared temperature reading off a bare aluminum surface due to its low emmissivity - typically 0.05-0.10, whereas your IR thermometer is probably calibrated for 0.9 or so.

[@timterry8714]

I found this unit was completely incapable of dissipating the rated 60 watts and it shut down in Over Temp under full load (5 amps) after only a few minutes. I have since remounted the heatsink mounted components onto a very large external heatsink and it still shuts down after about 10-15 mins without a fan and even then still runs quite hot. The new heatsink is probably 10 times the surface area of the board mounted standard heatsink. The basic unit certainly wont work for any extended periods at full rated 60 watts without the Over Temp alarm and shutdown.

[@tomschmidt381]

I'm late to the party but thanks for the overview and the reverse engineering in #38

[@WarthogARJ]

Very good video: thanks. I bought one of these based on your comments. I'm happy with it.

[@voltlog]

thanks!

[@nutsinstuffprod]

Thanks for the info. I just ordered the load tonight. Seems like a great deal!

[@peckelhaze6934]

Just come across your site and have subbed. My dummy load arrived today so this review was very helpful.

[@voltlog]

This is a pretty good dummy load, I still use it today.

[@surgingcircuits6955]

Absolutely excellent review. Describing the board was very nice. Tests appropriate. Well done. Only thing missing was the sensing, which I would have liked to have seen.

[@voltlog]

Do you mean the 4 wire measurement mode?

[@surgingcircuits6955]

Yes. Would like to see/hear your thoughts and demo.

[@voltlog]

whenever you need accurate voltage measurement you need to use a second set of wires, just for measuring voltage, right at the load (battery) terminals. This will eliminate the error introduced by the voltage drop caused by heavy currents running through the main wires.

[@papaluvspi]

Excellent videos!! Subscribed> I have one of these dummy loads on order after watching this. My understanding of electronics is limited, but I'm learning thanks to so many great teachers on youtube and @eevblog. Thank you! Well done.

[@voltlog]

+ dadlovespi thank you for watching.

[@linuxcow9870]

It's totally worth it , I bought one myself. Was planning to build one until I found this cheap unit.

[@voltlog]

+Linux Cow the thing is when you decide to make your own dummy load you are probably going to go for the simple full analog style one with opamp+mosfet but that's doesn't give you too much flexibility. The fact that this dummy load costs only $20 and it comes with some nice software features makes it a very good buy.

[@peterbaylis8631]

Thanks for this video, makes using the load simple.

[@dennisfahey2379]

Excellent video. You cover the product well and clearly its a well thought out design. That connector on the side is likely for a Manufacturing test mode but useful for datalogging as you say. It would be nice to know if you can remotely control the unit with that serial interface and forego the front knob button. (Hook an Arduino or Raspi to it as a master controller / logger.) I purchased the 110W variant which runs very much the same. Looking at the spec of the HEXFET used on that one they really have a good level of design margin. Respect to whomever designed these things. Thank you to Surging Circuits as well for the very useful notes.

[@michaelhompus2475]

Good work! It helped me understand my unit. I have my doubts about the temperature measurement though. Aluminium has a low emission factor, so just pointing an IR cheapy at it will probably give you a very inaccurate reading. Better to point at the black transistor because the sensor usually is set for high emission factors....... Keep up the good work!

[@voltlog]

thanks, that is a good point, I noticed that pointing the IR thermometer at the actual transistor give a more accurate reading.

[@stevemacbr]

Great review - and good detail. SUBSCRIBED ( didn't expect the serial port debugg - well done) - - Only details missing for those NOT having the required 12v SUPPLY - were,... 1/' 12vDC SUPPLY must be no less than 0.5A and,.. 2/ Voltage polarity of connector PLUG/SOCKET. - - I believe to be = 12V plus CORE ++++ )---- minus GND SHIELD .

[@carysmith638]

Many thanks for this review. I have ordered one. As others have commented, I would like a lower amp load, lower than 200ma. For small batteries I do not care about any load current above 1000ma. And would like the minimum/lower load to be perhaps 50ma. That 10mohm shunt resistor, perhaps change it out to 100mohm? And apply a scaling factor to the load meter? Or perhaps they will make another unit to serve this range. Thanks again for your review.

[@davidharper4289]

Hey, Fantastic video............... Thank you so much for your time (Hope you had fun making the video) I would love to find one to go down to 0.002 resolution at this price. I will keep searching. Otherwise B&K at WOW prices. Thanks again, David (from Aus.)

[@voltlog]

Thanks! Unfortunately I don't think there is at the moment something that can go down with that resolution for this kind of price..

[@solarhope]

I just received mine, your explanation on how to set it up was very useful :-) Have subscribed to your Chanel - Martin.

[@voltlog]

thank you!

[@LegacyMicro]

Note to SeLf: 11:32 Function 1 Message to Author: Thank you! Great VideoS!

[@cosmocramer1004]

Thanks for all the informations in your video very informative

[@ch2o2]

very nice review but it is so annoying, that it is almost impossible to see the display (which would be so important). You just should cover the display with a little stripe of electrical tape (red is optimal) and you will see everything perfectly in high contrast ...just saying :) thanks

[@CoolKoon]

Eh, having it output the very same data in "function 2" would be gold. I have a feeling that it's been disabled on purpose. Other than that this thing looks absolutely brilliant. Also, thanks for the review. It was a really detailed one.

[@jasonbrambach6957]

Two things: 1) where did you buy the 110 W model...how much did it cost? 2) for what purpose would one use the 4 wire scenario for voltage? ...sorry if this seems obvious, but I am still a beginner in electronics. Thanks for the help. My friends and I have ordered a second ZPB30A1 to to your modification!

[@voltlog]

The 110W is also available from a few ebay sellers, here is a search voltlog.com/y/b6li8 The 4 wire scenario is used whenever you want to have good accuracy on the voltage reading because it will measure through the second set of wires instead of the main ones which will introduce an error due to the voltage drop caused by the high current going through them.

[@kevinscuffil1394]

just received my zpb, and the serial port connector is not there ,I am a hobbyist , not sure if it will influence the general running of the circuitory.bloody good video,I understand I have got a copy , I just need something to shunt a couple of amps through a dodgy board and can check my batterys............thanks

[@johnberry5339]

Great tutorial, I have just liked and subscribed.... :)

[@anupamkumar235]

What does Error6 means after connecting to power ??- Any solution?? please help

[@theengineerisin9778]

Hi, here are the error codes: Err1: Overvoltage for the battery Capacity determination Err2: The battery voltage is below the preset / No battery connected / The battery is connected wrongly Err3: The line resistance is too high / The selected discharge voltage can not be applied to the battery Err4: Circuit failure Err6: The supply voltage is unsuitable. Select a power supply with 12V DC and 0.5A otP: Overheating protection ErT: Temperature sensor fault ouP: Overvoltage protection oPP: Overload protection cheers!

[@randywetzler5976]

Excellent video, thanks for sharing. Can someone explain how to use the 4-wire measurement using this device.

[@xavierbranca4929]

hi and thank you for your quite nice demos and videos. You did not put the links to taobao vendor and to power supply in the decription . Regards

[@hum-diy2570]

Excellent review! Thanks for Sharing! Do you think we can put several of those in parallel for increasing the load capacity?

[@voltlog]

yes but you will have to control them individually.

[@hum-diy2570]

Thanks!

[@JuanCruzAvila]

WOW your channel is amazing, High video quality and interesting topics, I subscribe

[@voltlog]

+Juan Cruz Avila thank you!

[@stephenagha1484]

Really nice video Voltlog. I just got a unit and was excited to learn of its serial output capability. Can you please share how you interfaced it with a computer to obtain the voltage read out? thanks in advance

[@voltlog]

I just connected the serial pin through a usb/serial converter 115K baud rate, that's all.

[@E3CB]

Thank you!

[@abuahmed71]

Many many thank for the review

[@samgab]

I can't see any trim pots for calibrating on the board anywhere. Did you see any way to calibrate it? Thanks for the review; I'm thinking of buying this from Banggood, and it's good to get a bit of info about it first. Cheers.

[@isprithul]

Nice review. Can you please tell me if the voltage and current reading is accurate enough?

[@principecristiano]

I like Many Thanks, good description

[@ThreePilotsFPV]

I like the current control of this unit ,but I would like to be able to use more amp draw.I discharge large rc type lipo's and I'm currently using up to 19 amp's discharger that I built but would like to ad some brains to it .Kiwi4

[@firebladecbr1k]

Good review, thanks. I can now drive my unit. I received mine with a dry joint on the shunt resistor. When i fixed that, the current reads with a 50% error! I imagine this is because the device was factory calibrated with the fault. Does anyone know of a way to re-calibrate this device??? a secret key sequence??

[@SvenOllino]

Nice review and thanks for sharing the producer info! Do you know what type of connector that white one is?

[@voltlog]

+Sven Ollino looks like a 2 pin JST connector.

[@GEspok]

nice vid, thanks a lot!what would happen if I would connect a 36v battery to this dummy load?

[@randylenart9674]

Very good review

[@nutsinstuffprod]

Don't understand the difference between the 2 wire, and 4 wire modes? Can someone explain? Great channel by the way. I subscribed!

[@voltlog]

+nutsinstuffprod Hi there, 4 wire mode means you have the original 2 wires carrying the current plus an additional 2 for sensing the voltage. The first two, that carry the load current, will generate a voltage drop due to Ohm's law so sensing the voltage through those will result in measurement errors. Full story here en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Four-terminal_sensing

[@EmbSysDev]

Hello, Thanks for the very useful demo. If it is worthwhile,can you do a demo with 4 wire method also?I know about 4 wire for resistance measurement,but how does it work here. Thanks again!!

[@voltlog]

There is no need for a demo, it's simple: you use the same 2 wires(thick) for the actual load current but you add-in a second set of two wires from the white jst connector, to the battery tabs for sensing the voltage. This way any voltage drop that occurs on the main current load wires will not affect the second set of wires used just for sensing voltage.

[@stephanc7192]

Great Video Thank you

[@anuretta]

Excellent review!. The specs say 1-20V discharge voltage. Can it be set to a cut off voltage lower than 1v (e.g. 0.8) since increment is ? At cutoff voltage of 1 or less, is discharge current maintain at 9.99A ?

[@voltlog]

minimum cut-off voltage is 1v. I haven't tried discharging 9.99A at 1V , but it should be able to do that.

[@DeeegerD]

For the price its ok. Shortcomings: accuracy, 0.2A limit and most of all no PC logging other than voltage (need current to calculate mAh, Wh...). Wouldn't have been hard to add this functionality as the hardware is there and the uC obviously can sent data.

[@voltlog]

+Digger D watch voltlog #41 kzbin.info/www/bejne/gV6anJqcl61gm6s where I do hack to change the range to 20mA-999mA. I agree it would have been very useful to have those pc logging capabilities and it shouldn't be hard to implement those.. only if the firmware were open-source so you don't have to re-write everything.

[@DeeegerD]

VoltLog I am planning on building one that will be AVR uC controlled. It will use a 16 bit ADC to read voltages (total and current sense resistor) as well as input power voltage likely. It will have similar functionality to this one but will have logging and constant power, current, resistance, pulsed and ramped discharge etc... I am hoping the 12 bit DAC that I have will be good enough resolution to control the power FET with a decent resolution but it will certainly be able to do a few milliamps to as high as it will go (TBD). Being able to see the Ah or Wh etc... is nice but being able to graph a discharge is better. And of course it will have heat detection, over power shut down, reverse polarity protection as well. Hopefully by summers end. This one is a decent load for the $25 Cdn I see it listed on eBay. If it had logging It would be a no brainer but then again it lacks in accuracy (1% is too high) and that 200 mA minimum is too high.

[@DeeegerD]

Received mine (finally) and tested it on a bank for 4 NiMH AA's - took them down to 1.1 volts each and capacity seemed accurate enough (0.2A draw over several hours = 1950sh mAh). I didn't want to take them lower than 1.1 volts in case I damaged them - should be 2300 mAh, so pretty close considering I did not fully drain the batteries. Happy enough with this. Thanks again for the great review.

[@voltlog]

no problem, hopefully I'll post more interesting stuff like this very soon :)

[@gauravmg]

very nice video. you really took a lot of effort. kudos to you.

[@voltlog]

thanks!

[@randywetzler5976]

What is the purpose of the 2-pin JST connection header?

[@cmj20002]

So, the verdict? Good device or could be better? I have one and like it. There is a different one that seldom comes up any more and it has four buttons and the fan with heat sink is flat on the board. I wish it was still available as it was much cheaper, but it maxed out at 3 amp discharge and only went down to .500 milliamps so not useful on smaller batteries. I am testing 18650's so this one fits the bill.

[@cmj20002]

Ok, I am using my tester for the first time and I can say it is really good. I would recommend it if you are looking for a good battery capacity tester. Thanks for the video. I may make a video as well.

[@voltlog]

thank you for watching!

[@maz.informatique]

Hello. Thank you for the video and all the explanations ! Do you think I can use it to find a short to ground in laptop's motherboard ? I mean, would it resist enough to inject upon 3 amps max in short mode, without kicking off ? Thanks a lot

[@voltlog]

this is an electronic dummy load, it doesn't inject, it sinks current.

[@maz.informatique]

thanks

[@lloydwilliams7640]

Hi, great video, thanks. I was not sure what measurement the mAh or Wh. meters displayed, is it the instantaneous value or the accumulated power consumed in the test to that point in time? Do you know?

[@voltlog]

both of those accumulate over time.

[@jydog57]

How about a demonstration on using this to determining the real capacity of fake 18650’s?

[@voltlog]

It's quite simple, you charge the battery and then you run the dummy load in mode 2 (fun 2) and discharge the battery for something like 500mA, the end result is measured capacity.

[@deangreenhough3479]

Great video my friend, so good I'm a subscriber. 😎

[@voltlog]

+Dean Greenhough thanks!

[@NoEff3x]

Video should be titled "Master the ZPB30A1 Electronic load" lmao. Good video though, i just got mine an i'm learning how to use it.

[@voltlog]

thanks!

[@RKAndroid-vb2gx]

Hello, some feedback about Zk-f25 Zk-f35?

[@abuahmed71]

Can I measure the Internet battery resistance by used four wire tested

[@camurgo]

Very interesting video.

[@jimacid.]

thanks for this great review, i ordered the 110w version and now i want to buy a power supply for it but i dont know the dc jack size. can you please tell me if it uses a 5.5mmX2.1mm jack or 5.5mmX2.5mm?

[@voltlog]

I use a 2.1mm jack and it works fine.

[@Atetus94]

Where did You find manual for that dummy load? - NVM, that video helps a lot, thank You :)

[@voltlog]

no problem :)

[@justinward538]

I just ordered a connector for the second voltage sense port, but it arrived and is wrong. Do you know what type of (white) two pin connector is on the dummy load?

[@brainlessmoep]

Did you try the 4 wire voltage sensing on this? On mine it only works in FUN2. This is a pity because the voltage drop across the wires is substantial at high currents. So if I want to see the real source voltage I cannot use the sense voltage in FUN1 but need to apply an extra multimeter.

[@voltlog]

FUN2 is for 4 wire measurement.

[@maxwarfield6699]

Complete novice here, Why are you using two resistors? Please let me know, as I am trying to learn. Thank you

[@voltlog]

you connect resistors in series or parallel to get to the desired value.

[@mikapirinen5561]

@@voltlog Are you sure ?, i think you use only resistor wires to connect power.

[@STRATOS13PAO]

OMG you are so young, sry if you get offended by this but i though you where something like 45-60 years old, haha, congrats on your content man best of luck.

[@voltlog]

Thanks! not offended at all, I think it's quite an advantage to be younger :-)

[@SODA-iz8lc]

Voltlog, If my DUT is using say 5amp, do my input supply current also needed to be 5amp?

[@richardnanis]

Pay attention when measuring temperature with these cheap IR-scanners if you are measuring on a shiny surface like aluminium heatsink. The values wouldn't be right due to the fact the surface is no black body! There can be an error of 20% and more! I doubt therefore that there is a 20 degree C difference on the thermistor from the point where the mosfet sits on the heatsink, as it is a big block of aluminium. The difference can be a few degrees - not more.

[@squalazzo]

the 110W model is now available on Banggood for about 19.15€ now: www.banggood.com/Original-ZHIYU-60W-110W-9_99A-30V-Constant-Current-Electronic-Load-Aging-Battery-Capacity-Tester-p-1146280.html

[@gurgelplus]

Does it also send data when in function 2?

[@MrDunk66]

Thanks. How is the Ah and Wh display reset to zero for next capacity test? Turning on and off doesn't work.

[@voltlog]

they should reset when you press start again.

[@MrDunk66]

In off state, press and hold start button and logged data clears. Then press start momentarily to commence new measurement.

[@PlasmaHH]

Have you tried a 4 wire measurement? despite the signals being there, it doesn't seem to work here

[@voltlog]

yes it works, you need to put the load into the correct measurement mode.

[@MarcMERLIN]

Thank you for the video, that definitely helps using the unit. For what it's worth I also got a unit from Ebay where the fan is on all the time, I'll have to apply the fix for that. One thing I'm confused about though: I'm using the P-/P+ leads. When are the V-/V+ leads helpful and/or how do you use them? Or should I just ignore them for anything below let's say 1A or so? The way they're supposed to work, do I just bring a 2nd set of wires from the battery directly to V-/V+ and to bypass the voltage drop on the wires going to P-/P+?

[@voltlog]

yes, you got that right.

[@MaxAirGo]

Hi I got on from banggood 1 month ago after watching your video. The fan is always On on my unit even not in Run. The thermistor measured 7.24k ohms. Is yours around 50k?

[@voltlog]

Mine has 17.6K at 26C ambient.

[@MaxAirGo]

VoltLog Hmmm, you label it 50k on schematic. Does your fan also spin when power applied?

[@voltlog]

checkout Hugatry's HackVlog comment on Voltlog #39. He had the same problem but fixed it easily.

[@MaxAirGo]

You are super helpful!

[@Electester]

Is there any possibility to increase accuracy? Especially in low currents like 0.2, 0.3, 0.4 ... Amps.

[@voltlog]

no possibility..

[@Electester]

Even if I would change the main op-amp for better one?

[@justinward1159]

I am using this to put fully charge 7s LiPos in storage. Thus I need to take 29.4v battery down to 26.95v. However the load cut off in function 2 is a maximum of 25v. Is there a "hack" to increase the cutoff 2 volts? I suspect not since this will be set in firmware. Great channel BTW. Voltlog, your video and content quality is very high. anyone found a decent case for this? the one in a list are OK, but one includes the power supply and one is clear perspex. Any other choices??

[@voltlog]

a hack would be possible by changing the resistor divider used for measuring voltage, however I do not recommend such a mod because all the measurement will be wrong afterwards.

[@justinward1159]

Do you see any hardware reasons why the cutoff would be set at 25v rather than higher at 27v? Do you know how I may get in contact with the creator/supplier?

[@voltlog]

There can be hw reasons for limitting at 25V but I haven't checked. Unfortunately I don't know who the creator/supplier is.

[@daviddoidge1252]

Hi Guys, another great video thank you Voltlog, I need to test quite a few sealed lead acid 12v 7ah batteries, would this unit be any good for me do you think ?

[@voltlog]

yes it will do the job, about 2h/battery discharge and if you're not in a hurry you might want to extend the time by lowering the discharge current to avoid a high thermal stress on the load.

[@daviddoidge1252]

thank you :)

[@daviddoidge1252]

Hi, I finally received my ZPB30A1 and wish to test my 12v 7Ah batteries. What settings would you recommecd ? Voltage cut off ? Discharge current ?

[@voltlog]

I would test them at 3.5A. Discharging to 11.6 voltage is recommended in daily usage to extend the battery life, but for testing purposes you can go to an absolute minimum of 10.8V.

[@daviddoidge1252]

Thank you again, you did not have to comment/help but you did and I appreciate it :)

[@hightttech]

I really like these testers. FYI: Because discharge current & ending voltage are different from one battery chemistry & capacity to another, you must get datasheet for battery being tested if you hope to match rating on battery's label. Even better, use the white, 2-wire JST connector to remotely monitor DUT voltage. Finally, if you discover that the actual current draw does NOT match the setting, you may need to replace the current shunt (watch this video kzbin.info/www/bejne/fKXdpKCgbtZqd6M ). Cheers.

[@canon5789]

what is the polarity of power plug, thanks

[@voltlog]

if you mean the dc barrel jack, it's center pin positive, everything else is marked on the pcb.

[@gurgelplus]

Have you tested how much voltage this can handle max? 50V...??

[@voltlog]

it does 0-30V

[@gurgelplus]

+VoltLog will it explode at 31V? Or is it Limited and Switches Itsself off?

[@voltlog]

software is monitoring the voltage, once it goes over 31V it will stop with OVP error. However you should also consider the hardware limitations of the input section. My reverse engineering video & schematic should give you some hints on that. The mosfet they use has VDS of 100V and the voltage divider used to measure the input voltage has a ratio of 0.1235 so going over 40V on the input will put more than 5V on the adc input, blowing that input. So to answer your question it will not explode at 31V but going over 40 will do some damage.

[@fredlllll]

what is the difference between the gophert 3205C and 3205?

[@voltlog]

+fredlllll the C variant, has active PFC, making it more efficient, and CE/EU compliant.

[@fredlllll]

+VoltLog oh XD i have 2 of the non-C ones and im in germany. guess i had luck that customs didnt take a look at it.

[@voltlog]

+fredlllll yeah, as an individual you don't get checked for that kind of stuff but if you plan to import them in bulk that's when you are required to have the proper certification.

[@linuxcow9870]

+fredlllll The non C version has 3 digits for amps while the C version has 4

[@voltlog]

+Linux Cow thanks for sharing that, didn't know it was that way.

[@thirdroompro]

Could I use this type of dummy load for Tube amplifiers @ 8 ohms putting out 100 watts like a Marshall 100 watt amp using 4- EL34 power amp vacuum tubes?

[@voltlog]

Don't you need passive resistive dummy loads for amplifier testing?

[@thirdroompro]

Well, normally its simply a speaker output which has an 8 ohm or 4 ohm speaker of varying wattage depending on the size of the amp. Normally amp techs simply use an 8 ohm 50 or 100 watt resistor as a dummy load and connect it to the speaker output of the amp.

[@thirdroompro]

I am a beginner in the electronic repair department but a lifelong professional musician.

[@voltlog]

I have no experience with testing audio equipment but I think you should use a resistive dummy load, that is what the amp is expecting on it's output.

[@Roy_Tellason]

@@voltlog I agree, plus there's the fact that the amp is putting out an AC waveform, while this device is designed to be a DC load!

[@jasonbrambach6957]

How did you order the case? The site : yxluser.taobao.com shows the unit: Zhiyu ZBP30A1 but of course the site is in mandarin Chinese. Do you have any suggestions or another source that you might suggest?

[@voltlog]

I didn't order the case but here is a link on ebay with a search for this dummy load + case: voltlog.com/y/pvwza

[@jasonbrambach6957]

thanks for the quick reply! Do you take donations through Pay Pal to help keep your YT videos going?

[@voltlog]

Sure I accept paypal donations to keep the channel going, can you please send me an email to contact at voltlog dot com? and I will forward you the info.

[@jeoffer]

Jump to 22:00 for final thoughts

[@anupamkumar235]

What is Error6 ??

[@An.Individual]

Err6: working power is inappropriate, please use a standard 12V power supply, and the supply current is not less than 0.5A;

[@SixWildKids]

5:15 in covers operation

[@simontay4851]

Your eyes look half closed.

[@shagggyman]

BangGood is a good supplier. Until they send you crap. They REQUIRE you to send them a video showing the problem. EVEN when the problem is that you have not received the product. If you give a bad review they always respond with you should contact them to resolve the issue. even when you have a trouble ticket open with them. The problem is that they also Delete and follow up comments to there's so others think that the problem is the buyer and not the seller. There are other suppliers such as AlliExpress and EBay. if you must purchase from BangGood do so through there eBay store. At least then EBay will have your back.