Volvo Penta 2002 Engine Repair and Hot Water Tank Removal

[@MrHardware1]

Good luck, Eric. It will be good summer sailing.

[@AhoySkylark]

And a good summer it was! Thanks for subscribing and watching.

[@richardlamoreaux8979]

Nice! Wish my plumbing was that good.

[@AhoySkylark]

I'll send my diesel guy right over.

[@Davesunflower]

That hose was probably the anti syphon loop , if there is a problem now your boat will flood ?

[@AhoySkylark]

The engine installation on my boat created some issues with the raw water line routing to the anti-siphon valve that made me decide to remove it, and the mechanic agreed with my reasoning. As I show in this other video kzbin.info/www/bejne/a4m4lqCNmd9_sJI the raw water line had to be routed aft under the engine cover and then through a bulkhead and then up under the galley to where the anti-siphon valve (the Scot Marine vacuum breaker) could be mounted above the water line, then back down through the bulkhead again and finally up to the heat exchanger, which made the raw water line pretty long and it shook a lot due to engine vibration which caused the raw water intake on the heat exchanger to eventually leak, and it turned out that it had leaked the entire first season I had the boat. Of course it was over 30 years old so I suppose that shouldn't come as a surprise. So in my view, due to the complicated routing of the raw water line that the anti-siphon valve required, it potentially (and did) cause a below-the-waterline leak in the raw water line, which could have sunk the boat, a considerably worse outcome than a flooded engine. In most other installations I have seen, the hose routing to the anti-siphon valve is much shorter and simpler, typically being mounted directly above the impeller pump in the engine compartment, or even downstream from the heat exchanger (or the engine block if it's directly raw water cooled), but still with a short hose that's a simple up-then-down affair not subject to chafing. (It's true that the manufacturer should have covered the sharp edges where they cut through the bulkhead, but that is a common oversight, even at Tartan.) As I understand it, there is a lot of friction through the raw water line, with the water strainer and especially the heat exchanger, which contains all kinds of little holes and chambers that the raw water must pass through, besides having to change direction as it flows from the fore end to the aft end and then out the fore end again and to the exhaust elbow. When the engine stops, the impeller pump also stops, which stops the water flow through the raw water line because at least one, and likely two or three, impeller vanes block the flow of water through the pump. So that, as well as the high-friction flow of the water, makes it hard for me to imagine how water could continue to flow through the raw water line due to siphonic action once the engine stops. And if an impeller vane breaks off its likely going to block the raw water line anyway, further blocking the flow. Also, I always close the raw water intake seacock when I stop the engine, and I hang the engine key on the seacock handle so I can't start the engine again until I retrieve the key, which reminds me to open the seacock again. It's easy to access, just inside the under-sink galley cabinet (you can see it clearly at 9:43, and now it's easier to get to with all that extraneous plumbing out of the way). In sum, it seems to me that the simpler the below-the-waterline plumbing, the better. It's still a tradeoff, but that is often the case with sailing.