Volvo S60 Front Door Speaker Replacment

[@smiIingman]

Thank you for the easy guide. I just did a front speaker swap on my 05 v70 and man oh man those god dang rivets which hold the speaker in place were made out of some godly material because even with a brand new drill bit i struggled to get them off, but once they were gone it was super straightforward. I went with the cheap Pioneer TS-G170C components and the installation was insanely easy due to the tweeter being in the car, hell pioneers tweeters fit perfectly into volvos tweeter frame. And the sound experience went from good to *amazing* . I was skeptical at first about installing a cheap speaker set but man they are insane. Highly recommend to anyone looking to upgrade factory speakers/tweeters

[@nednordgren5396]

What watt was the speakers?

[@matthewbaron217]

Thank you for taking the time to post this great "do it yourself". My daughter and I followed your video with our same year Volvo and it worked great. Very much appreciated!

[@FloydNashFixItDad]

Thank you for letting me know this worked for you. When I went to replace the speakers, there was nothing out there to show me, so I tried it on one door to work out the right way to do it, then I made the video to show others what I had learned. I'm glad you were able to make use of it.

[@donmoore7785]

I did this job last night. I have a comment on your advice to use a large drill, and to aim it side to side on angles. I don't believe this is necessary or advisable. I used a 7/32" drill, about a #2, and drilled straight into the rivets. This worked perfectly, and each rivet came loose with the shoulder around the drill. In this manner, there is no risk to damaging the ears needlessly. I do appreciate you posting this so we know how things come apart. It led me to know I could pry off the acoustic ring, for example. As someone else pointed out, the white material is a water seal to prevent the speaker being exposed to rain water that gets in along the window opening. I have some refoamed 6-1/2" Infinity speakers from 1978 with EMIT tweeters that should improve my sound greatly. Glad I recovered them from my 280Z Turbo.

[@winstonblackett2081]

Actually I didn't have to use the four pieces of duct tape. I was able to get my left arm through the door panel and hold the nut and washer in position while I tighten the screw with my right hand. But the glass has to be up! I have a V70. This video was very helpful. Thanks for posting. Greetings from New York City.

[@KICKINGSTACUE10]

Thank you for this tutorial. I just finished replacing all 4 speakers in my Volvo S60. Couldn't have done it without your video :)

[@FloydNashFixItDad]

Thank you so much! Glad this helped in any way at all. So, what did you put in, and how does it sound?

[@KICKINGSTACUE10]

@@FloydNashFixItDad I bought 4 JVC CS-J620 300W speakers. They sound amazing! Much better than the factory speakers and they only cost $40 a pair.

[@Andrewkosche]

Since I’m assuming they draw more current to supply the higher wattage speakers, did you need to get an amplifier or anything? I want to do this and get a solid sub as well so I’m assuming I would need this too correct?

[@Andrewkosche]

Also fantastic video!!! Too bad it’s very niche or else you would be a KZbin ⭐️

[@JMHawkins9608]

Pro Tip: When pulling the speaker from the housing, you can just unscrew it. With the speaker and housing facing down, grab the back of the speaker and twist clockwise and it will come free. just discovered while doing my speakers for the second time. Hope this helps someone!

[@S1LVERflyin]

I’ve been looking for a video like this for so long!!!! I’m in England and have a V70 but it’s got the exact same door panels and speaker assembly like your S60 which is great. Thanks for taking the time to upload this!!! Much appreciated!!

[@FloydNashFixItDad]

Glad I could help out. I may have gone a bit beyond what was necessary, because I wanted to re-use the factory mounts and electrical connections, but I'm hoping it's still easy for people to follow.

[@zsolteditor]

@@FloydNashFixItDad wow, niiiiice, what size are those speakers, nice video :)

[@FloydNashFixItDad]

@@zsolteditor The front door speakers I used were simple 3 way 6.5 inch round speakers. I could have gone with better speakers, but eventually this is going to be my daughter's car and she doesn't really care. The cheap speakers ended up sounding about 100 times better than I thought they would though. This car rocks now! It's been at least 2 years now and everything still works and sounds fantastic.

[@zsolteditor]

@@FloydNashFixItDad i will buy some courage to change the speakers :) thx for answering to my comment.

[@timster83]

You make it look so easy. Going to give this a try myself rather than pay the local garage an over inflated price. Thanks!

[@hamentaschen]

Nice trick with the duct tape! I was going to purchase a rivet tool before I saw that... saved me about $30! Thanks!!

[@FloydNashFixItDad]

Glad that helped. The whole idea of this was to do it on the cheap, and pretty much every house has duct tape so why not use it.

[@donmoore7785]

The problem with this low cost method from my viewpoint is he barely tightened the bolts. You need a wrench on the nut to really tighten them. With sound and vibration from driving, the nuts may loosen very quickly IMO. He mentioned what happens if you have to get it back apart, and said it would be addressed "later". I guess that is another video.

[@eric-.]

Thanks for this video. This is much better than the instructions that came from Crutchfield. I'll be doing this on my S60 just as soon as the weather clears up. The duct tape to hold the nuts blew my mind. I do love some backyard engineering!

[@FloydNashFixItDad]

Thanks! Honestly, there are better ways to do this. Putting the rivets back in would probably be better, but I didn't have a rivet tool and this set of instructions was designed to show people how they could do this with the least amount of special tools. These speakers are still in the car, and still sounding great. The extra treble from the 3 way speakers let me drop the treble down on the EQ for a better overall sound, which lets the big speakers in the back shelf hit harder and provide better bass. Replacing the crappy factory tweeters in the front door helped even more. Those were done much the same as the full size speakers, with a much more liberal use of a cutting tool to fit in little tweeters in the factory mount.

[@donmoore7785]

The duct tape is an interesting suggestion, but be aware that you can't tighten the screws and expect duct tape to hold the nuts. It won't. In the video, he barely snugged the screws - certainly not tight enough to prevent them from quickly loosening. A rivet or large metal screw is in order IMO.

[@Murrell84]

Thanks for making this video your wife must be one lucky woman if you treat her as rough as you do with this car and speakers I've seen enough after you drilling those rivets out keep up the great work 👍

[@FloydNashFixItDad]

Single and loving it.

[@TheTrothKeeper]

Thanks for the how-to! Worked pretty much the same on a 2006 XC70. FWIW a #12 x 5/8" screw is great for attaching the plastic speaker holders to the door. The sound deadening is on the skimpy side as well, add some "dynamat" and acoustic foam while you are in there. We installed Rockville components in the front doors and Rockville mids in the rear doors (left out the tweeter), great components for the price!!!

[@FloydNashFixItDad]

If I were to set up a better system, I would definitely go the route you did and get better components and sound isolation material. This was just a cheapie fix as an example, that actually ended up sounding really, really good. This car will go to my daughter and she's not into high end sound or anything, so I figured why spend the money on high end components.

[@RonGamblePR]

Thanks for the video. I appreciate the replacement options you provided. I have an 06 XC90 and couldn’t find anything on how to replace the speakers and this was right on time. I’m not sure if I’m going to get new speakers or go to the junkyard but when I do I’ll be sure to shout you out! Thanks and good job!

[@nitro_rc_dude8158]

Thanks mate for the video! Me and my dad installed focal speakers in my mums s60 2005. But it was the one with 8 speakers and factory underseat amp. We aslo fitted a hu850 radio. The bass is unreal

[@FloydNashFixItDad]

I've been surprised at how much bass these factory speakers can produce. It might not be super low bass, but it's hard hitting. After putting in these new front speakers and new front tweeters, I could crank it up without distortion, and everything else responded nicely.

[@MarcelloTheBandit]

@@FloydNashFixItDad You can tell the Swedes like their music when you get in a mid-00's Volvo. I have a 2006 S60 with the HU-850, PA-300 amp, and the "13" speaker system, and you will back off the volume before the amp does. That being said, when you find the amp's distortion point, it's obvious. I like how they screwed the speakers into the brackets instead of making them all into one piece, but I'm surprised that yours are clipped in though.

[@Vision42_]

Thank you maaaaaann, im changing my s90 speakers, this really helps BIG TIME

[@DJW3lch]

Hey, thanks for making this video! I was looking at replacing all the speaker sin my car (an '02 S60), and you showed me how easy it is to do. I'm glad we can use any old speaker that's the right size, I was worried I'd be stuck with some weirdly shaped thing only two companies in the world make. I like your nut and bolt idea for re-attaching the speaker to the door, but I would (if there's space) try to put the bolts in from the back, with the nut sticking out the front. I also really like the duct tape around the body panel to reduce vibration. Has that been working for you?

[@FloydNashFixItDad]

Thanks for the kind comments. You can use pretty much whatever works for you to attach the speakers. I don't have a rivet gun so I couldn't use that to attach the speakers, so any way you can get a nut and bolt to work is great. The tape to help with the vibration and rattling has really worked well so far. It has helped eliminate a lot of those annoying little squeaks these door panels tend to produce.

[@SuperLeGaard]

Thanks for a good and easy to understand video. Was trying to help my son with hes door speakers in hes Volvo v70 - 2006 and your video made it happen. Thanks aging! 👍👍👍 🌺

[@VOOODOOO37]

great video, my speakers are good but if ever go bad this will help. Amazing how well Volvo constructs the door and assemblies.. a testament to how long these cars last. Mine is a 2008 S60 2.5t with 86k. I used to do aircraft riveting, and the best method is to drill straight into it, with the same size as the rivet shaft which is usually discernible. Also, blind drywall type screws with the butterfly deals would work too.

[@witchellward8988]

taking the door panel off my volvo was very rewarding/thank you!!!!

[@gpzjeffrey7974]

Did you even check the impedance of the OEM speakers? I believe on my 2004 the OEM front door speakers are an 8 ohm tweeter and 8 ohm mid wired in parallel with a crossover. It looks like the speaker you are installing is a standard 4 ohm, without the tweeter?, but still going through the crossover? How's that going to work?

[@FloydNashFixItDad]

It's been working fine for a long time now. Most radios made in the last 20 years will handle anything from a 2 ohm load to 16 ohm with zero problems. If you check sites such as Crutchfield, they will also show 4 ohm speakers being acceptable. Excellent question though. Thanks for asking.

[@daveraysberg7478]

Great video! Thanks! My front passenger side speaker is DEAD. Using a toner probe I have I am pretty sure I was able to determine that it's actually the speaker and not something else because my probe/wand plays what should be going through the speaker. My dog and I will be taking a stab at replacing the speakers soon thanks to your great video!

[@cesarjimenez9390]

Excellent video, very professional. Thank you so much...

[@ministryofengineering3850]

Is it worth doing? How would you rate the audio improvement? I have an XC60 with the mid-range high performance system

[@FloydNashFixItDad]

In my case it was. The speakers were very basic and there was no treble. Replacing them helped a lot.

[@tauntonengine3]

Great video. I need to do this to my daughter's 2008 S60. One question do you need the white gasket you pulled off between the speaker and the door?

[@FloydNashFixItDad]

Sorry, I thought I answered already. No, you don't need it. It was a factory item as a vibration damper from the metal of the speaker to the body of the car. With screws or fasteners that stay tight, you don't really need it. There is nothing wrong with using it though, even if you just make a little cardboard gasket to go behind the speaker.

[@andrewblahut6213]

I just bought a v70. this is crazy helpful. this is an old video. did your daughter inherit the car yet?

[@FloydNashFixItDad]

Sure did and it still sounds great

[@leonidmccoy4334]

My speakers are shot so I'll be replacing them thank you for the video

[@freekfaro5606]

Sorry to ask so late. What size new speaker did you use? 6.5 inch?

[@FloydNashFixItDad]

@freekfaro5606 yes, 6.5

[@freekfaro5606]

@@FloydNashFixItDad thanks

[@nrbrtbns]

Thanks for the video! But why did you remove this black plasic mount from the door? You could have removed/reinstalled the speaker directly from that mount (like you did in your kitchen), without removing/reinstalling that mount from the door. I think that would have saved most of the work.

[@FloydNashFixItDad]

It was easier for me to remove the whole thing for a couple of reasons. This was the first time I had replaced a speaker in this car so I wanted to know how it was built. It's easier for me to inspect it when it's out of the car and I can be comfortable instead of crouching down so low. Also, it's easier for me to show it when I'm making the video. Otherwise, if it's easier to leave the mount in the car, then that's excellent. Whatever works best for the installer, then that's the way you want to go.

[@donmoore7785]

There are two things he did from the rear. He snapped off the two plastic tabs, and he cut and reinstalled the two speaker wires. He may have been able to get the speaker out and broken those tabs, but he couldn't redo the connections without removal.

[@lc1625]

Hi, thanks for the video.. the explanation very clear... I wonder is it same on the s80 2005?

[@FloydNashFixItDad]

Not totally sure but Volvo made the S40, S60, and S80 in this year range very, very similar. If it's not identical, then it would be close enough that you should still be able to figure out the differences.

[@lc1625]

@@FloydNashFixItDad thanks for your info.

[@laysiahollins1626]

Can I know the name of the screws you’re using . I’m going to attempt this project tomorrow hopefully it turns out great like yours.

[@FloydNashFixItDad]

The ones to hold the speaker in the mount is any generic 1/2 inch number 8 screw with a phillips head. You can get them at most hardware stores like Lowes, Home Depot, and Menards. Good luck! I know you'll do a great job!

[@FloydNashFixItDad]

Hey Laysia, Merry Christmas! How did the install go? I have my fingers crossed that it went well and your car is sounding good!

[@homesteadandvideo]

You got a link or so to the new speakers , was the new sound good ? Is it 8inch speakers .

[@FloydNashFixItDad]

The speakers were just some fairly inexpensive Boss Audio speakers from Amazon. Nothing special, but since they had dedicated tweeters, they blended so well with the rest of the speakers it ended up sounding surprisingly good. I also replaced the little tweeters in the front door, which were paper cone tweeters, with piezo tweeters. Overall, the sound system in the car sounds REALLY good now.

[@homesteadandvideo]

@@FloydNashFixItDad thanks for the reply sir. Door speakers is 6,5 inch right ?

[@FloydNashFixItDad]

@@homesteadandvideo Yes, 6.5 inch

[@higurro]

Does this mean the High Performance Audio and the Premium Audio necessitate entirely different doors? I can't see how Volvo would get the third speaker of the Premium system in there without different metalwork.

[@FloydNashFixItDad]

I haven't seen that setup so I don't know. Typically, sites like Crutchfield will list speakers and placements and I don't see an alternate setup listed. It might be possible for the area where this speaker is located to have a different mount that allows an additional speaker, but the door panel that goes on the door might be different. I can't see a way for an additional speaker to go in without something being changed.

[@higurro]

@@FloydNashFixItDad On further investigation it looks like I was wrong abouta third speaker -the premium audio comes with three grilles on the door card, but one of them is actually for a channel formed from the main speaker housing, so still only two

[@robertofranco7889]

3:23 Huh, I have a Volvo S60 too! But it doesn't have that has button, for what it is?

[@FloydNashFixItDad]

If you're talking about the little dot in the center of the panel clip, that's the design they use. Pushing the center in releases the inside that expands to keep the clip in place. You probably just have a different type of clip.

[@Tallnerdyguy]

Was that a 6 1/2 or 6 3/4 speaker? Also why did you replace the midrange with an additional tweeter? you had a separate tweeter in the door

[@FloydNashFixItDad]

It's a cheap 6.5 I got just as something simple and temporary to replace the blown factory speaker. Trouble is, my cheap temp speaker ended up sounding freaking excellent, which I didn't expect. It just happened to be a 3 way speaker, and it matched beautifully with the capabilities of the factory head unit. The factory tweeters are pretty weak. I had one blown in the passenger door and ended up having to replace both those also. The replacements were much louder, so I ended up having to drop the treble back a couple of notches, with another unexpected result. It let the mids and bass shine thru to match the crisper treble and the whole sound of the system is a huge amount better. I've had people comment at how good it sounds, and that's with the rear door speakers and rear deck speakers still stock.

[@Tallnerdyguy]

@@FloydNashFixItDad I plan on replacing my front speakers, one is blown and the tweeter is also blown or just gone.... was wondering about fitment, if i needed 6 1/2 or 3/4, thanks!! wish me luck on the tweeter replacement, as it think that will be tougher with wiring.

[@FloydNashFixItDad]

@@Tallnerdyguy That tweeter was a pain in the ass. I got a 1 inch tweeter had to remove it from the mounting it came with, and hack the heck out of the mounting for the OEM tweeter. The factory tweeter was a really odd size apparently. Good luck!.

[@Tallnerdyguy]

@@FloydNashFixItDad i got a .75 in tweeter, hopefully it will work, or just jb weld

[@matteo3893]

Did those speakers hold up in your Volvo?

[@FloydNashFixItDad]

Yes, they are still there and still work beautifully. For cheap speakers, it's amazing how well they match the other speakers in the car. After replacing the tweeters in the front door also, the sound in the car is really, really good. The rear deck, and rear door speakers are still factory Volvo speakers too.

[@matteo3893]

Floyd Nash awesome I seen the same ones on amazon, the front of my v70 went out was thinking about buying them. Thanks for the video

[@martin1649]

hey, thanks for the video without unnecessary cuts, showing everything nicely. i have one issue, and that would be the screw/bolt/nut sizes in the imperial system which speaks chinese to me! i only know metric. thanks anyway!

[@sthildas4857]

Thx Floyd that helped a lot..🇬🇧

[@C0R0NAH]

Hello there (-: Could you help me with the size of the front doors speaker size same as the size of back one? Silly, cannot find it anywhere. Thanks from my V70 MK2 (-:

[@FloydNashFixItDad]

I haven't had to replace the rear door speakers in mine, but from all I've been able to determine, yes they are indeed the same size.

[@C0R0NAH]

@@FloydNashFixItDad i did "study" about that. 16.5cm front and 17 cm back. Koaxial 4ohm +/- 80w front and 8ohm mid base rear...? Would be glad if someone correct me with more specification. I found mine is destroyed in front on the driver (left) side and didnt looked the back one yet. All what is play in my car is passanger one. Cose of that drilling I didnt put them out yet. I am happy to do that asap (-: It is nice "isolated" car from Sweeden cold climate. I guess that is one of the reason of comfort of that "silence" ride if you know what I mean. Sorry for my english, still didnt woke up yet :-D And thanks for really fast answer

[@FloydNashFixItDad]

@@C0R0NAH Since the door panels are easy to get off, I would have to say if in doubt, remove a door panel and inspect it/measure it for yourself. That takes all the guesswork away and you'll know for certain exactly what is in there, and what you could fit in their place.

[@donmoore7785]

Regarding the speaker polarity, reinstalling as factory + and - will make the two new speakers in phase, but they could be the opposite phase as the ones in the other (forward or rear) pair. What you really need to do assuming they are the same front and rear is take a 1.2 or 1.5V battery, momentarily put it on the terminals and see if the cone goes in, or it goes out. Do this on a new speaker, and a speaker that stays in the car (assuming you are not replacing all of the). If + and - need to be reversed to match the behavior on the existing speakers, then reverse + and - on both new speakers. Otherwise an important pointer.

[@FloydNashFixItDad]

Many years ago that might have been true. All modern audio equipment is designed to have the same correlating polarity. In about he last 30 years, I've installed a LOT of stereo systems and haven't found one that is reversed. I still check myself also, but it's really not an issue any more. If you're doing something like this to an older car, you most definitely want to check though. In some older cars, it might not even be the same from one car to another of the same model.

[@bodziuchna]

Nice job

[@bubbzarelli]

Do you run 87 or 93 in your car and is your model a t6?

[@FloydNashFixItDad]

This one is a T5. I have another newer one also a T5 but with the 2.0L 4 cylinder. I run premium in both. They will run on lower octane, but it will retard ignition timing to prevent detonation, which reduces power and lowers fuel efficiency. I want all the power they have to offer.

[@bubbzarelli]

@FloydNashFixItDad ok thanks I have a 2011 s60 t6 do you think I can run 87 without causing any damage?

[@FloydNashFixItDad]

@@bubbzarelli According to your owner's manual, page 243. Volvo recommends premium fuel for best performance, but using 87 octane1 or above will not affect engine reliability. Volvo engines are designed to achieve rated horsepower, torque, and fuel economy performance using premium 91 octane fuel.

[@bubbzarelli]

@@FloydNashFixItDad thanks for the info!!

[@king_sutter]

Is this a similar process with the rear doors?

[@FloydNashFixItDad]

I haven't had to replace the rear speakers yet, but it should be very similar. The door panels come off pretty much the same way. The only difference may be the speaker mount design, but it should be close enough that you could figure it out pretty easily. There are only so many ways you can mount a round speaker, so that's a big help.

[@paulenskis814]

what size speakers was used for perfect fit?

[@FloydNashFixItDad]

6 1/2 inch standard round

[@giorikas1982]

Thank you very much Floyd!greetings from Greece! You really help me a lot. I replace my speakers like you did!I want to change the front central speaker. do you have it in your car?i cannot found any video of that. Thank you again...

[@FloydNashFixItDad]

I've seen mention of a front central speaker, but I don't find that in this car. My 2015 has a central speaker but not this 2009. Try looking on crutchfield.com. Sometimes they have instructions on how to replace speakers.

[@giorikas1982]

@@FloydNashFixItDad Thank you very much for you help! You also have audio right?i mean instead of Mp3. I connect AUX with my mobile phone. I do not have any other solution. Why about you?))

[@thatvolvoguy6565]

Did they blow? Cause I changed mine and they blew

[@FloydNashFixItDad]

Nope, still working great 2 years later. Sounds fantastic. The speakers I chose were inexpensive, but matched to the abilities of the radio so I'm not running enough power to blow them. I don't turn it up to the point of distortion either.

[@donmoore7785]

Speakers "blowing" would only be because you overdrive them with audio. Nothing to do with this procedure.

[@williamburch6082]

why not use pop rivets to rivet it back in place?

[@FloydNashFixItDad]

The idea was to use stuff the average person could get easy or cheap or free. Even after all this time, I still don't have a rivet gun, and most other people won't have one either. I used screws because they are things most people have experienced and can obtain easily.

[@leonardostankic1364]

Thank you very much sir.

[@2CHACHOUU]

Nice work,what size are those speakers?

[@FloydNashFixItDad]

Thanks! These are just standard 6.5 inch speakers. These are just inexpensive Boss audio I got here. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000J1FABY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[@authenticcertified9864]

How About The Back Speakers?? What Size? Im assuming there the Same Size For the 2015 S60 T5 as Well??

[@MrZaine97]

Quick question. What size is the speaker? I have an 06 R

[@FloydNashFixItDad]

These are standard 6.5 inch speakers. I used an inexpensive 3 way set from Boss Audio to see how I liked them, and I've been very pleased with them. Any decent set of 6.5 inch speakers should work well. Don't get too crazy. Some of the more expensive speakers have very large magnets, and thick wire in the voicecoil, and require more power to produce good volume than what the stock radio is capable of providing. For stock setups, keep it pretty simple.

[@MrZaine97]

@@FloydNashFixItDad I know. I'm about to get a DMX770s. Bout to sell my DPX502BT.

[@davidco5533]

Thank you very much for this video , thank you.

[@عبداللهإبراهيم-ب9ط]

Why was it completely opened?

[@FloydNashFixItDad]

Why was what opened?

[@2869may]

Should've threaded the nut on to the bolt a little bit through the hole, then hold the nut in place with the bolt... then tape the nut in place, and remove the bolt... Perfectly placed the 1st time every time.

[@FloydNashFixItDad]

Excellent idea! If I have to do it again on another car I'll do that.

[@2869may]

@@FloydNashFixItDad It was inspired by your idea....lol

[@see69420]

First off all, use a smaller drillbit when drilling the factory speakers off. 2nd dont use screws and nuts when installing, rather machine screws so you actually can get them off later. 3rd: why not use some sounddampening material once you got the speaker out? Otherwise ok video, next time dont use a big drillbit and scratch your body.. And maybe get some plastic door panel removers instead of regular metal screwdrivers.. Sorry for only the negatives, but I comment this for other people doing this.

[@FloydNashFixItDad]

The video was made for the garage "do it yourself" person. It's designed to show that you don't need fancy things to do the install. When my speakers cost $25, why would I want to go out and buy different drill bits or pay for a special tool to remove the little plastic pieces when a screwdriver I already own would work perfectly OK. They aren't bad suggestions if you have multiple of these type of vehicles. It's always good to have a tool made specifically for a job, but not always necessary. No sound damping is needed. If you're talking about the little gasket behind the factory speaker, that's there to prevent the vibration of the factory speaker housing against the metal door panel. When the area you are working on is covered so it will never be seen, there isn't much need to worry about minor scratches either. Machine screws won't work because the holes left by the rivets are too big. The screws I used were only about $2 at a Lowes, and are easy to get off later. If you look to the left of the speaker toward the edge of the door, there is a rubber piece that you can peel back and put your arm in to get behind the speakers. It's very easy. I could have done that to put the screws in, but I have a habit of dropping them, so using the tape was a super quick and easy way to prevent that. The tips I provided are a result of 37 years of doing installs of various types, so they are there to help let the average person know they can do these things as well. Otherwise, thanks for the suggestions. They are always appreciated.

[@mandeepnagar9992]

drill bit was the least of the issues in this video. true with smaller drill bit your drilling would have been very easy and not a total butchering for the paint job. the seal between speaker and shroud has no function in those amounts. it seals or insulates absolutely nothing. i bet my ass them soldering joints are cold and will come loose speaker should be installed after shroud which makes everything easier leaving unnecessary garbage even tape inside doors is just stupid. you didnt put any seal or insulation between shroud and door so the whole installation is worse than before duct tape is maybe worst way to try to get rid of vibration and by leaving some areas without it there is now gaps all over the door panel which affects speaker sound you should first install shroud with some sealing between. 100% caulk is ok no latex. now you can install the shroud from the speaker hole with screws and both hands solder a little longer wires to connector so you can solder while speaker is barely out of shroud. if you cant solder use connectors. its better than poor solder joints. before installing speaker but more caulk around shroud. a lot. leaving gaps and being cheap on amount makes sound worse. install speaker use correct material between panel and door or don't do anything if you cant afford some better tape or something else. you should not teach people how to be lazy and do things half assed and be proud of it. these are the typical installations that i hate to have in my cars. with your instructions you are potentially creating more vibration and rattle than before by taking shortcuts everywhere while still managing to do things the hard way. you are right that no sound damping is needed but at least seal everything correctly so your speakers sound like they should. this roller coaster was hard to watch

[@Thurrock91]

Also, who puts $25,- speakers in a Volvo, the stock factory one cost even more.....

[@andycapo9you]

@@mandeepnagar9992 That and the fact that he's drilling the speaker suppprt with the window down... Nice way to replace a glasss.... And, a single cheap '3 way' speaker, JEEESUS! THAT CAR IS CRYING RIGHT NOW. PLEASE, SOMEONE GIVE THAT MAN A HIGH QUALITY 2 SEPARATE WAY SET UP!

[@starsoftDE]

@@FloydNashFixItDad Hi Floyd, the gasket is for moisture insulation of the inner door water flow canel and your car interior. Keep an eye on that, if your interior gets wet after a wash or on rainy days. Thanks a lot for the hint with the reused chassis with the connector soldered on, especially on newer volvo models you won't get aftermarket adapters and sockets for your custom speaker setup.

[@jonsnell4751]

Making work for yourself! Remove the pop/blind rivets with a smaller drill. That will ensure the plastic speaker holder does not get damaged as yours is now. The pop/blind rivet shoulders will come off easily and enable you to use a small punch and hammer to pop the old rivet bodies out of the door frame. Use aluminium pop rivets to refit the speaker frame.

[@FloydNashFixItDad]

I could have definitely done this with different tools, but the idea was to show people how to do it without having to purchase a bunch of special tools. The rivet gun is a prime example. I do a lot of my own work on things and a rivet gun has been on my list of things to get for years and years now and I still don't have one. Smaller drill bit might have made less mess, but they are easier to break. For someone not as familiar with tools, the bigger bit works better, and even with minor damage, this has been in place and working perfectly for over 2 years now. People with better experience and tools can always choose their own options for removal or reattachment options. For those people, this will only really be useful to see how to get the door panel off and what is behind it. Thanks for the comment though. Always appreciated.

[@donmoore7785]

That is what I would have done. Not a fan of barely tightened nuts, especially once vibration hits them. A self-tapping option might be wise as well. Agree on the needless damage that was done to the plastic ears. There is no rush.

[@donmoore7785]

@@FloydNashFixItDad I bought a pop rivet gun about 22 years ago - not very expensive. It has come in handy several times over the years. They aren't that expensive.

[@FloydNashFixItDad]

@@donmoore7785 Believe it or not I still don't have one. I keep saying the same thing, I'm gonna get one, but it's never high on the mental to do list so I always forget. One of these days. They are indeed cheap, and amazingly handy to have around. When you don't have one, you find a way to get things done. When you have one, you find uses for it you would have never thought of. I've even bought them for my kids I teach robotics to, and still don't have one of my own.

[@-beyza4034]

Isnt there another way than doing like 5:52?

[@FloydNashFixItDad]

Not really. If you have a rivet holding in that speaker mount, you have to remove the rivet. The best way to do that is to drill it out. They are made with soft metal specifically to make it easy to do that.

[@v70d5lyfe]

Or, if you want to do it properly and not hack it, centre punch the rivets or file the heads flat before drilling with a correct drill bit, which in turn makes removing the rivets from the door easier, and, doesnt ruin the plastic surround. Replace with rivets not bolts so you can remove them again if needed.

[@FloydNashFixItDad]

The whole point was to do this with tools that most people might have available fairly easily. When you put the door panel back on you won't see it anyway, and it's a very used car. It's been perfect for several years now.

[@4Burkix]

what is the size of speaker ?

[@FloydNashFixItDad]

I used standard 6 1/2 inch speakers. The ones I used were inexpensive Boss audio 3 way. They are nothing special, but don't need a lot of power to produce good volume levels. Combined with new tweeters when I realized one of the little upper door tweeters was blown, they sound fantastic. I've had many compliments on how good my sound is for this car. The "cheap" speakers compliment the factory speakers surprisingly well.

[@Doma1232D]

Hi, I looking for dimensions (diameter) of speakers for front door and rear door. Anyone know something? Volvo V70 II 2003 year.

[@FloydNashFixItDad]

The best way to find out for certain is to take the door panels off and measure, but I believe this is what you're going to find. Front door: 6-3/4" Back door: 5-1/4" Rear deck: 6" x 9"

[@IUsedToBeAPygmy]

It's even easier if you put the bolt in from the backside and put the nut on the outside ;-)

[@FloydNashFixItDad]

Oh nice, great idea. Thanks! I'll have to remember that one. As long as the bolt part doesn't stick out the front too far, that would work beautifully.

[@timcastilo6962]

What size speakers ?

[@FloydNashFixItDad]

The front speakers are 6 1/2 inch speakers

[@a.mrociohudson3418]

Could you have used pop rovets

[@FloydNashFixItDad]

Most definitely. The point of this particular video was for the average person who didn't have any of that. Simple screws and nuts are easier and cheaper to obtain and use. I haven't had a single problem with them in all this time either.

[@DuBstep115]

@@FloydNashFixItDad I mean pop rivet gun at Biltema is 7,90€

[@bombfirst157]

Why would they rivet speakers into the door? Between this and the cabin air filter someone needs to pay for my time

[@FloydNashFixItDad]

I'm not sure they ever intended these things to come out. I've seen several cars like that though so it's not totally unusual. That cabin filter.... that's just messed up now! It's almost like they were at the celebration party drunk as hell and someone had an "oh crap, we forgot the cabin filter" moment and just penciled something in.

[@donmoore7785]

To keep other kinds of fasteners from loosening?

[@bombfirst157]

@@donmoore7785 yeah they should put a rivet on your dumbass comments

[@maxmiller3847]

Currently listening this in my Volvo while the speaker rattles it’s ass off

[@midrezgaming]

Man I gotta do something soon. 😂

[@emresenol1568]

Thank you i will do it

[@theboywholeans1251]

Bro said what’s a cabin tool

[@AlfredoRcCars2024]

That's being too extra you should pack got the regular tools it would have been easier than coming up with a solution but that's your car do what you want

[@oscarbanuelos7936]

Beautiful car 😭

[@FloydNashFixItDad]

Thank you. Still have it and it's still going strong.

[@2869may]

Can't believe you used those speakers..... The factory were better than those. But thanks for the video.

[@FloydNashFixItDad]

The factory speakers were blown on one side. I chose simple speakers to start with not knowing whether the stock radio was capable of driving "better" speakers, plus I'm cheap. These actually worked much, much better than I would have thought. They have much better mids and highs than factory. That blends with the crisp high from the new Piezo tweeters I installed to replace the factory paper cone tweeters, plus the low mids of the rear door speakers, and the bass from the deck lid speakers. All together, they work remarkably well and I've had quite a few people comment about just how good it sounds. I would replace them with some nicer ones, but if you heard them you would probably agree that there just isn't a reason too. The sound in the car is really fantastic.

[@2869may]

@@FloydNashFixItDad That's great I wouldn't have expected that.... The Volvo stock head unit's have decent output... and sound pretty good with even the stock speakers. (if not blown) Just remember if you ever replace the rear speakers that the rear door and deck speakers are 8 ohm wired in parallel per side right and left for a 4 ohm load per side. We're about to run just the front doors and rear deck with the cheapest C1 JL audio's, components in front and coaxial in the deck. I think with the rear deck speakers firing off the glass, the rear doors aren't really necessary

[@jchop1437]

Instructions too hard cars in the bottom of the river

[@chapmanmerchant]

what are you replacing that with a candian tire speaker? Omg

[@Hurm0s]

Replacing crappy speakers with another crappy speakers... You should also use more than 3 screws, slamming that door can easily loosen that speaker. That thing that fell apart probably wasn't tweeter, it was dummy piece that covers that tweeter hole, because you had dual-cone speaker that comes without tweeters.

[@FloydNashFixItDad]

The point was just to show how to replace the speakers. The first time trying this, I got inexpensive speakers with decent reviews, and I have been really surprised at just how good they are. They sound great. The 3 screws is more than enough also. There really isn't a lot of room to put a lot of screws. Sometimes, less is more. The caulk I used was an adhesive caulk so it helps a little as well. I haven't had any troubles at all with them rattling or coming loose. That piece that fell apart was indeed a tweeter also. The cone on the dual cone isn't nearly enough to give you good high tones. I did end up getting inexpensive 1 inch tweeters and replaced those as well. I had to do a lot more modifications to make them fit, but they sound amazing compared to the factory ones.

[@Hurm0s]

The Volvo original speakers are total JUNK, so even some cheapos are better, but spending some more probably would give even better sound. I like to really overdo things, my speakers are hold in place with at least six screws :D

[@FloydNashFixItDad]

I second that about the speakers being junk. It wasn't exactly an audiophile's dream, was it? For me, another reason to just go with inexpensive speakers is, I'll be handing this car down to my daughter in about a year and a half as her first car. She isn't into high end audio so the extra cost for better speakers would have been wasted. Nothing wrong with overdoing things either. If 3 screws have been tested to work well, then you know 6 is going to survive anything.

[@pavw5508]

Man a screw driver?! I thought you like your car. There are tons of plastic tools on the market to do the work right and safe. I cannot watch it when you do it like this

[@FloydNashFixItDad]

I love this car, but, it's also a daily driver with 172,500 miles on it currently. I pull a boat with it, and it gets bet up pretty bad, and still looks great. More important though, you must have missed the part where this was to show people how to do this WITHOUT special tools. If you prefer to spend a little extra on specialized tools, then that's great. Most people won't take that much time or care with their cars, so you're well above what most people do and I have to applaud you for that and tell you to keep it up. If this were my 2015 S60 that lives a little more pampered life, I would be a lot more careful.

[@pavw5508]

@@FloydNashFixItDad I love cars and my motto is if you want to do something, do it right. And those special tools cost literally few coins. And what's more important you can use them every time you work on your car. What you show is going to end up badly for your subscribers. A powertool and a window behind the drill bit? It smells like material for your new video; how to replace side window on volvo😉 I love to work on cars and believe me, that few more tools that are cheap will mak a huge difference and also will educate your subscribers. Have a nice day

[@sergeyt.4331]

Кулибин

[@rafamaek616]

My god, Sir! You treat this car like a caveman. Your technical culture is abismal. Please don't ruin aby other cars.

[@FloydNashFixItDad]

I'm terribly sorry, but I've been doing things like this a very long time. A Volvo is a well built car. You can't use your little finger to take it apart. You have to be rough sometimes because the parts are tough and meant to last. It's been a year now, and this still sounds and works perfectly, and probably will be 10 years from now too. People from around the world have seen this video and been able to do this themselves. If you think you can do better, don't criticize, show me. Otherwise, you may just want to be quite and work on your spelling.

[@flaviuscarp]

Habib, go back to your overpriced german car, am sure you can't even change a tire without help from the local shop. That man's Volvo will still be cruising long after yours will end up in the scrapyard.

[@rafamaek616]

@@flaviuscarp I've had a 940, a 1st gen V70 and currently have a 2nd gen V70. I work on Volvos since 2012. The fact that something is tough is not an invitation to ruin it, neither is it an excuse to someones ignorance. Stop treating them as they were disposable. You can do this without scratching the crap out of the inner door panel. Yust pay some damn attention. Dont break one thing to fix another. Simple as that. Have a good day.

[@realreviews1745]

Hard to watch. I would NEVER treat my S60R with this level of disrespect.

[@chapmanmerchant]

that made me stop watching Dammit

[@LajosCsontos]

OMG :(

[@a_a_1199]

egyszerűen szornyű :D eszem megáll, hogy hogyan oldja meg ez az ember a "javítást" :D