Voron Mod Showcase: Kirigami V0 Bed Frame (Kit by LDO Motors)

[@powersv2]

It never occurred to me to just take the rails off. I've been staring at how to get this apart all morning and i've had the bed kit for a month. I've always had bed issues on my v0.1 so this video helped take away the anxiety of disassembling a mostly working printer. The absolute comedy of a v0.1 is trying to take things apart after its together and doing upgrades.

[@MapleLeafMakers]

Glad we were able to help ease your anxiety :)

[@wolffox008]

I find it funny that the same day that I do this mod your video come out! It would à been nice watching your tutorial before. I ended up not cutting the wire because I was afraid of not having enough extra wire. I might do it your way if I need to remove the bed. Keep it up it is nice to see good tutorial content!

[@MapleLeafMakers]

We tried to get it out sooner but the Kirigami kits were delayed in shipping. Thanks for watching!

[@kevinroosa1315]

Is there documentation for the v0.2 kit without removing the old bed (no prior v0/0.1 bed)? The parts are different and there is *zero* documentation. Also, which parts need heat set inserts specifically?

[@AM-jw1lo]

I have this on my 0.1 and you need to make sure you don't touch it, especially the front, it bends very easily and you will be re zeroing your bed often if you do touch. At some date in the future i will probably take it back appart and give it a mod to keep it from bending, this really needs a stronger sheet metal, or a design to add support to keep it from bending down.

[@MapleLeafMakers]

This is the first I've heard of this problem, and we're definitely not experiencing it with this one. it's quite sturdy.

[@AM-jw1lo]

I would be happy to have a replacement if i have a defective part. I will be in touch. and will delete my post if i find the singular part defective. till then, my statement above is true.

[@MapleLeafMakers]

@@AM-jw1loDid you get yours from LDO? There is something very wrong with it if you can accidentally bend the sheet metal, it's very thick and sturdy, I don't know If I could bend the front down, even if I was trying to

[@ThomasWood3DPrinting]

I have one in my hands right now and while it flexes slightly if I grab it with both hands and twist with significant force, it does not bend though. It actually feels really premium

[@GregsMakerCorner]

Any suggestions on what pins to use for the neopixel connection? On both SKR Pico and SKR Mini e3 v2/3? Edit: I did see you plugged it into the "Neopixel" port on the SKR Mini. I will have to check and see if the Pico has one of those.

[@MapleLeafMakers]

All 3 boards should have a 3-pin 'neopixel' or 'RGB LED' header. The data pin is the center of the 3. on the SKR pico it's `IO24` on the other 2 boards it's `PA8`.

[@GregsMakerCorner]

@@MapleLeafMakers Great, thanks.. I will try to find it. I looked at the pinout but my eyes could not make it out on the BTT Pico.

[@MapleLeafMakers]

it actually looks like they didn't label it on the pinout diagram at all: docs.vorondesign.com/build/electrical/images/skr-pico-pinout.png I *think* it's supposed to be the one to the left of E0-Stop, but there's no markings for it in the diagram.

[@GregsMakerCorner]

​@@MapleLeafMakers Haha.. yes I think you are right! I was looking at the physical board on the back of one of my V0's and I eventually saw that one labeled "RGB" so I think that's the ticket. I also confrimed with BTT's documentation which also shows the order as GND, GPIO24 and 5V (from left to right)

[@GregsMakerCorner]

Awesome video!! You beat me to it!! LOL :)

[@mitsubishimakes]

Where did you source the bed kit in Canada? I can't find any canadian retailers that have it

[@MapleLeafMakers]

LDO sent us the kits directly. They are going to be in Canada 'soon' we were told!

[@delronb1902]

Sparta3D in Ontario has them.

[@mitsubishimakes]

@@delronb1902 Thank you!

[@mitsubishimakes]

@@delronb1902 I ended up getting mine from West3D in the US, but shipping and duties basically doubled the cost of it :(

[@DWIT3D]

What advantages do this bed offer over the standard kit bed? Curious!!!

[@MapleLeafMakers]

The biggest advantage is easy access to the screws that mount to the linear rail blocks, meaning when your bed inevitably works itself lose you can retighten it without dismantling half the machine :) It's also a metal-on-metal connection holding the bed instead of the printed parts, so in theory it's more rigid.

[@HitLuca94]

The bed on a voron 0.1 is supported only on one side, and with printed parts. Usually the bed tends to sag in the front, so you would find yourself loosening the front screw continuously after every few prints. This bed is supposed to be more rigit to endure it doesn't sag

[@tadhgd350]

plaid shirt like a true canadian

[@Sttreg]

I realise that in your video, you are not using the rail aligner when putting the rails back. Did you just skip this in the video, or didn't do this at all ?

[@MapleLeafMakers]

We typically use them, Yes. With our method of installing the bed they weren't as necessary here since the bed moving up and down smoothly is all that really matters. Any x y rails you should definitely use them on.

[@Sttreg]

@@MapleLeafMakers thanks for the reply. Also, I have another question: If you had the RGB strip on both side of the v0.1, how would you hook the bed led?

[@MapleLeafMakers]

@Neizo you can chain them all together if you don't mind the extra wire, but otherwise you can probably find another free pin on your board that can drive a few neopixels. the BLTouch header should work in most cases.

[@newreefer92]

But wouldn't you still want the rails aligned so there is no binding and excess heat generated by the motor? I know it is hard to test the bed like in the voron docs so was curious.

[@Caiusdestruktus]

Hi, is there a particular reason why you soldered another piece of cable to the thermal fuse and did not connect the output directly to the Wago?

[@MapleLeafMakers]

That's how the original wiring came in the LDO V0 kit, it's not soldered, it's a crimp.

[@hobbyistnotes]

Is it helps with bed twisting issue? Asking because by my understanding is that problem is in 2 rail mount itself...

[@MapleLeafMakers]

The V0 bed can "twist" when the screws holding it to the rails become loose. if those screws stay tight it should not twist. The Kirigami bed makes it easy to tighten these screws and keep your bed from 'twisting'. There is nothing inherent to the 2-rails that makes the bed able to twist.

[@ktothestank]

your WAGO printed part in the video is not the same in the GitHub

[@MapleLeafMakers]

The one we're using is from LDO, it just replaces one of the wago slots with a spot for their thermistor splitter pcb. you can find the STL and cad files here: github.com/MotorDynamicsLab/LDOVoron0/tree/v02/STLs/Kirigami

[@FaenumVena]

ive got the same issue with the chain anchor. What Ive got from the ldo github as all sorts of bits sticking off it, but i keep seeing videos with it just being a simple spacer like this one. has the model been updated?

[@jasonbrashear1923]

Where can I get the allen wrenches you are using? =)

[@MapleLeafMakers]

I think they were just from amazon. They're Wera brand, should be easy to find, they're quite popular.

[@Bennyco86]

How do you know what length to cut the wires too? I'm Nervous to fuck this up lol

[@Bennyco86]

Also is the bed polarity matters? both of the wires are red coming of the silicon, how can I tell which is which?

[@danbrown586]

@@Bennyco86 No, polarity doesn't matter--either for the bed heater or the thermistor.

[@oldpicklesdupree4515]

The frame is metal or SLS 3d printed?I don't make the difference:)

[@MapleLeafMakers]

It's metal. check out the first link in the video description for more information.

[@oldpicklesdupree4515]

@@MapleLeafMakers Ty!

[@craftedkwads]

Should there be a need to re-tram the Z beams when you switch from the stock frame to kirigami?

[@MapleLeafMakers]

Hey! In a perfect world you don't have to re-tram the z beams at all. That being said, the Kirigami is just Sheet metal and if one of the bends is out a tiny bit.. they may not line up perfectly and you will have to do some work.

[@Blakes_Makes]

Your videos are incredibly handy. Thanks!

[@MapleLeafMakers]

Glad you like them!

[@adamdunn5989]

Can you post the links to the exact neopixel light? ty

[@MapleLeafMakers]

The Neopixel PCB shown here is a custom one that's only available in the LDO Kirigami kit. If you don't have it, you'll want to use a regular neopixel button: www.adafruit.com/product/4776 and this version of the printed parts: github.com/MapleLeafMakers/Stealth_Bed_Front

[@ogmaker]

Useful in some ways, but misses the boat if putting kirigami on v0.2 with an existing picobilical. Cable routing with more than 3 frames of video would have been very appreciated.

[@MapleLeafMakers]

Hi Bill, thanks for the feedback. We'll try to show the wiring-routing more clearly when we do the 0.2 rebuild. The Picobilical (or lack thereof) has no bearing at all on the Kirigami install process.

[@vafpcollection3903]

i need stl minute 3:49

[@MapleLeafMakers]

github.com/MotorDynamicsLab/LDOVoron0/tree/v02/STLs/Kirigami/

[@smolzillamakes]

No screw size guides with the video? 🫤

[@MapleLeafMakers]

We think it's best not to try and replace the manuals with our videos. we're just here to help with the assembly process. LDO has a pretty good manual for it on their site, its just a little hard to find: www.ldomotion.com/p/guide/Kirigami-Bed-for-Voron-V02