#10MinuteTalk

Ian Klemm joins Jimmy and Mark for 10 minutes to blow some minds. Does barrel break-in even matter?? Conventional wisdom says “Yes” and perhaps there’s some truth to that, but Ian would argue it’s not nearly as important as the internet wants you to believe and that you don’t need to waste a ton of time/ammo to get your barrel ready to shoot extremely accurately - Even with hand-made custom barrels! Tune in to hear why and let us know your thoughts on barrel break-in, too. This one was in response to a ton of feedback on our full-length Barrels podcast with Ian, so keep those suggestions, questions and ideas coming! Best spot to throw them out is on Instagram by messaging @vortexnationpodcast
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[@BrendanCooper12]

My opinion is the most important thing to do with a new barrel is clean it before you shoot. Especially with a budget barrel. Inspect the barrel and make sure there are no metal shavings or remnants of the manufacturing process. Cheap barrels will require more care because there is less finish work done. That's part of what makes them cheaper.

[@davidfornkahl8374]

Every rifle I have ever bought, they shoot at factory to test before they are sold to public. What amazes me is, they don't clean barrel before they are sold.

[@edwardabrams4972]

@@davidfornkahl8374unless you are buying custom or high end rifles not every rifle is shoot before it leaves the factory! Being a gun collector 60+ years and a reloader and hunter I have had a couple hundred rifles either the barrel was replaced to everything except the action was replaced and I have seen new barrels come with no shots fired and lots of grease or oil in them along metal shavings

[@nyjetsfan4455]

​@@edwardabrams4972ya i just got my 17 wsm havent shot it yet but i did run a brush and 3 or 4 patches through the barrel and i noticed the patches were coming out pretty dirty for brand new gun. Should i still break it in or just shoot 20 rounds out of and then give it another cleaning?

[@lyerger8232]

I wouldn't call it " barrel break in ", but every new gun I get I " clean " the barrel before I shoot it the first time. I use Hoppe's # 9 and a patch, then a brush to get the oil and crud out of the barrel left over from manufacturing it before sending a bullet down it for the first time.

[@hammerheadms]

If an elaborate cleaning process were involved to make any rifle shoot MOA or better groups, then I think one should reconsider the manufacturer they have purchased their rifle from.

[@exothermal.sprocket]

There's a bunch of different ways manufacturers of rifles and barrels achieve a bore with rifling, as well as different steels (not to mention plating). These methods achieve different kinds and finishes of bores. The break-in method wouldn't be the same for each bore type, potentially. But in GENERAL, a rifle bore is like an engine cylinder wall and the bullet is like the piston rings. Better seal means more power exerted on said piston/bullet. Higher velocity, less blow-by, less muzzle affect before bullet leaves barrel, better accuracy.

[@slanteyeperformance8557]

A car is broken in after the first startup and heat cycle, like stated, rings do take a little bit longer to seat due to cylinders not being perfectly round, but that is done after only a few dyno pulls. All the information presented by you guys makes perfect sense

[@exothermal.sprocket]

Not roundness. Rather microscopic bumps/ridges/peaks that shear, bringing the piston rings and cylinder walls into the closest marriage possible.

[@SpetsnazBear-3710]

Excellent 10 minutes. Love Ian's explanation. Agree 100%.... Thanks Vortex

[@Aldocello1]

If you purchase a rifle that REQUIRES a break in to get MOA, what you purchased is an UNFINISHED rifle and you are doing the manufacturers work ....

[@hammerheadms]

That's about the most reasonable thing I've heard in a while.

[@hardball107]

What I do is just a process and I continue until I don't see any copper being stripped off indicated by the blue on the patch, most often 20 rounds. No barrel that I know of "requires" a break in, that being said over the last 50 years all my new firearms and rebarrels have been put through the "procedure". They clean easier, "seem" to group better and perform longer. The perfect example is one of my M1 Garands, it was a CMP rifle when I got it in the 70's and it shot great. I got a little over 2000 rounds through it before I put my first barrel on it while shooting National Match, should have done it sooner. I replaced it with a Danish GI replacement, broke it in as instructed by my fellow competitors and that barrel lasted over 4000 rounds before I saw accuracy fall off. The next barrel was a Criterion match barrel also broken in, it's approaching 3000 rounds and still going strong. I shoot in a lot of John C. Garand matches up and down the East Coast now that I'm retired and that rifle still holds 1 moa and cleans in no time, It will probably last me the rest of my life or at least my shooting career and as crazy as it seems I give the break in credit for the long life. I've seen barrels turned into crap in 1500-2000 rounds.

[@markbroad119]

good point. it's like breaking in your new tires

[@blakegrubb3091]

Not at all. You, sir, do not understand design and manufacturing

[@caseywitt37]

Excellent information, thank you

[@jefferywilliams7687]

I worked for Bill Wiseman for years. No need to break a barrel of that quality in. Chambering tool marks can come from chambering too fast and not keeping cutters clean. Feel free to come visit us at the next NRA Show. We will have barrels and cross section barrels there. I believe Krieger will tell you the same. Check his interview out that was done at NRA Show a few years ago.

[@BenDurBenDur]

In case your bosses care, I wasn't really looking at vortex optics at all, but after tuning in to these videos for a while I recently purchased a vortex. I have to say I'm thoroughly impressed, both with the optic and with your company for feeding our passion.

[@MrJtin69]

Try their range finders omg wow

[@kevinvoiselle6077]

I’ve been addicted to Vortex for several years now. The good folks there know how to take care of you. Awesome people. So much knowledge there. I’ll never purchase another brand of optics.

[@wileytw55]

They have the absolute best customer service I have ever experienced. I own many rifle scopes, a spotting scope and binos from Vortex. Very happy with them all.

[@chriscosby2459]

I put a small dent on one of my Vortex scopes. Totally my fault, Vortex replaced my scope free of charge. They had a quick turnaround time as well, not even two weeks. All my optic purchases are Vortex now.

[@nlewinski21]

Same just picked up a Strike Eagle.

[@BilgePump]

Honestly idk if it matters but I did a break procedure on a new Mini14. The way i looked at it is u only get 1 chance and i don’t think it hurts anything.

[@demartinsm8479]

Excellent discussion. Thanks guys!

[@Jewdew18]

As an engineer, this was funny to watch Ian K. steamroll them immediately with information. I often lose people from the shooting community n conversation when I go into this much detail. Someone had to say it!

[@MrJtin69]

❤

[@harold1733]

This is too much technical detail? Shit, I think all that lead is starting to get to us.

[@exothermal.sprocket]

If everyone would delete their social media apps and turn off the TV for a month, read a couple books, they'd soon find out their attention span holding on to things much longer.

[@nick.laufenberg]

Mr. Klemm dropping some knowledge bombs!

[@wildcatprecision]

I have run in every barrel I have ever fitted. Every one has has maintained its accuracy for much longer between cleaning with a higher accuracy count. I have also noted that a barrel that is run in takes much less time to clean. My barrel that have been run in have the same point of impact from a clean cold barrel as a hot dirty barrel. It has been my experience that even match quality lapped barrels have benefited from being run in but usually takes a lot less rounds than a factory barrel to run in and group consistantly. When ever a client brings in a rifle that wont group one of the things I check is copper fouling. Most of the time it needs all of the copper removing and a run in procedure to bring the accuracy back and maintained.

[@ashtonjanke3860]

So u have run in every barrel. So what do u have to compare your claims too?

[@wildcatprecision]

@@ashtonjanke3860 I compare them to barrels clients have brought in to me that they haven't run in or cleaned properly. After a deep clean back to bare metal I have done a run in process on those same barrels and all of them improved in accuracy and cleaning ease.

[@redrock425]

@@wildcatprecision Sounds like this is just a comparison between a clean and dirty barrel.

[@texassportsman5880]

No, not on a standard production barrel. On a custom barrel, maybe. I called Remington, Browning/Winchester, Ruger, Weatherby, Mossberg tech support a several months ago. They all told me barrel break in is a myth and a waste of time.

[@fluxcapacitor05]

Called Remington, huh?

[@texassportsman5880]

@@fluxcapacitor05 Fixed it.

[@StuninRub]

Custom barrel makers will tell you it's a load of shit too.

[@exothermal.sprocket]

Myth? No. Just not worth the manufacturer's time to waste hours, days, weeks telling customers heavy details about metallic surface and metallurgy science to achieve LITERALLY THOUSANDS of contradictory results, many of those results too small to measure with any certainty, and then have to explain that to everyone in the firearms community as well. They have their time, money, and liability to think about. It's easier to tell people to just shoot their guns without thinking about such things.

[@keithlucas6260]

Read where you shoot five rounds and run a bore cleaner after each shot, then five more afterwhich you clean after the five, then ten, then twenty five and finally fifty. My Russian AK says "nyet," barrel is fine, just shoot it....."I'm listening to my rifle."

[@dennisobrien2578]

Thank you guys, this was exactly what I needed to know!

[@gilream]

Ian...a very nice guest. He is spot on correct as well.

[@raftika1]

New to guns. Got my first AR and shot 100 rounds before cleaning it. Took it again to zero in my iron sights and shot another 60 rounds. Diamondback DB15YB is what I bought. Hope it lasts

[@stevenk113]

DB15s are good. Haven't seen any problems with them. American made too, so that's a plus

[@HAV0X_]

I just got a diamondback AR too, anything to report about it?

[@raftika1]

@@HAV0X_ Have shot 485 rounds (and counting) and have had no issues with the gun itself. I had my little brother shoot it the other weekend and he caused a double feed so user error on that “jam.” Other than that it’s been able to shoot cheap steal Tula ammo and typical brass. I changed the stock cause the one it came with seem to rattle more than I liked it to. My mother in law got the exact one and hers came with a black buffer weight and mine was silver and came with some scuff marks on mine but not hers. Not sure if the color means they’re made of different materials but there’s something there to note I guess. Both guns were brand new, purchased through sportmans warehouse. The end plate in the buffer tube for mine was ambidextrous and hers wasn’t. Other than the rattling stock and cheap plastic feel to both the stock and the grip, I like it. The scuff marks in the buffer weight concerned me at first cause it seemed to be caused by the BCG and it still concerns me a bit. Paid around $630 OTD. Weighing at around 8.8 lb with the attachments it has. Been super fun to shoot and I want to take a class for carbine. Already taken a pistol class with field craft survival now just saving up money for their carbine class.

[@HAV0X_]

@@raftika1 wow, sounds great! i hope everything stays well on yours and mine. good work on getting some classes, you're doing better than i am!

[@raftika1]

@@HAV0X_ thank you 🙏 if you live in the USA make sure you write your representatives opposing HR 127. Subscribe to Firearm Policy Coalition to stay up to date

[@joeyzagari4155]

Interesting. So at 9.52 to 10.04 he says “don’t want to do 3 shots and clean or 5 shots and clean because it’ll only burnish well if it’s bare steel on bare copper” so he basically contradicts himself and agrees cleaning will infact improve the burnishing interface for those first few shots. I agree it is an overstated process and clearly burnishing is going to happen whether you shoot and clean or just shoot. Both sides of coin have been bashed over the years so choose your retail consumerism and get to your smoothened and polished (better lapped, whatever the language should be) barrel.

[@richardc-ex7rt]

No, it doesn’t matter. I just shot a .3 moa group this afternoon with a brand new barrel after merely running a couple of patches through the night before.

[@drewfields3945]

Is this same process recommended for pistol barrels as well? Just kinda getting in to deep ballistics and best practices. I will be purchasing my first pistol, Glock 19, and have never purchased a new rifle so never even thought about a “break in”. Thanks for the info.

[@williamrobertson2407]

Company list on break in, Armalite- No Barrett- No Benelli-No Browning-Yes/No cheap models need break in. Colt-No CZ-No FN-No Franchi- No H&K- No Henry-No Kel Tec- No Kimber- No Mossberg- No Remington-No Ruger- No Savage- No Sig Sauer- No Smith & Wesson -No Springfield- No Weatherby- Yes 20 shots, clean between 3 shot groups. Winchester- Yes/No cheap models need break in.

[@saltcreekammo]

Says he doesn’t break in the barrel, then proceeds to describe himself breaking in his barrel.

[@exothermal.sprocket]

Short attention span much? He qualifies the statement later.

[@Bucky69]

Do proofed barrels need breaking in since there were fired at the factory?

[@Rakkasan01-07]

What if you shoot the first few rounds with Meguiars polishing mirror finish rub on them?

[@normankaster917]

Yep totally agree

[@TheNutzandBoltz]

For some reason I believe this guy.

[@thecrusaders2516]

To be clear, was Ian recommending cleaning after every shot until patches are clean? By the way, I like your program topics. Great job!

[@jonbon8]

I’m wondering the same thing. I wish they didn’t interrupt him so much.

[@wyattvanloon6094]

Sounds like good information. I have some questions for though. Ian made a comment "bare steal on bare copper". I know a guy with an S&W M&P 10 6.5 and we cleaned it to get the factory stuff off the metal parts and then oiled everything with a good premium oil. My question is when you say bare metal ate you saying it would be better to not have any coat of oil in the barrel? Or is it still good to have a coat of good oil down the barrel?

[@VortexNation]

The coat of oil definitely isn't necessary.

[@Longtrailside]

If you shoot all the time on weekends no need to oil. If you only sight in and shoot a deer then let rifle sit for 11 momths out of the year, then oil the barrel.

[@br4713]

I'm pretty sure that about barrel break in, it depends on the barrel. I have 2 match barrels (wont tell the brand) that had flyers before 500 rounds, these flyers disappeared after that. I didn't do any barrel break in on these, but maybe I should have. As he said if the barrel is hand lapped maybe that's unnecessary

[@ryanwilson5936]

What’s the point in sharing your experience if you don’t mention the brand? I never understood why people “won’t say the brand”. That’s the most important piece of information.

[@justaregularguy3827]

I just shoot 100 rounds through it then clean it really well then 20-30 rounds and pull a snake through it and I'm done and that's bolt and ar15-10 rifles. And the first 100 I get it a little hot and zero it as well the 20-30 is just after I clean it to get some copper and such down it then I pulpy a snake through 1-2 times and store it or do whatever it works

[@mylesharvey6488]

The term you are seeking is work hardened by burnishing. You literally compress the metal.

[@agentstevehaines9164]

I have never seen ANY evidence that barrel break in does anything useful at all.

[@michaelficarro2591]

agreed, total myth

[@Rgonz39]

Just take it and shoot then?

[@michaelficarro2591]

@@Rgonz39 watch Erik Cortina’s video on barrel break in...

[@wildcatprecision]

Then you have never done it correctly

[@agentstevehaines9164]

@@Rgonz39 run a bore snake through to make sure its clean. Thats about it. This elaborate 1 shot clean, 2 shot clean, etc is complete nonsense.

[@johnnywadd9918]

You want to break in your barrel...buy some ammo load it shoot it done.take it home clean it. oil it. repeat.

[@charlierich9840]

No thanks. No caustic solvents coming any where near my barrel, ever. No, no, no.

[@stevenk113]

Iron and copper don't have the same reactivity. They don't have the same number of valence electrons. I think he knows what he's talking about.

[@boskoromanic7425]

My bergara b14 hmr manual is stating no braking in barel need to be done those guys in Spain are shooting and testing barels then stamp before thay live country guess is mandated by gov.

[@dm5943]

Mine does.....just bought it. 11/21

[@jeremykissner2281]

I dump a few mags thru and clean it after but im dick! I will never break in a new vehicle pedal to the metal!

Awesome! Keep it up! Would you like to be KZbin friends? :)

[@Dougarrowhead]

People that dont break in barrels dont know how to clean them in the first place. Notice how a muzzle loader changes point of impact from one shot to the next because of buildup.

[@lonewolfmtnz]

EVERY barrel degrades with EVERY shot from the very first. So-called break-in is fkn stupid and all it does is sell more barrels to fkn idiots.

[@didamnesia3575]

Its a load of 💩.

[@jaymanjay1030]

Its totally a myth

[@hxdaro]

He went from "I don't break in my barrels" to outlining exactly how he breaks in his barrels really quickly

[@jP-nw7nm]

It’s a Vortex Nation thing

[@skeetorkiftwon]

That's not the issue. There's a timer on the table that's counting down to and from nothing at all.

[@chasesimmons6451]

First 30 seconds says don’t break in barrel...next 10 min explains how and why you need to break in barrel

[@fluxcapacitor05]

He's referring to the meticulous fuddlore process of breaking in the barrel. What he's saying is you only need to do it for a couple shots, not this nonsense "first 100 shots, clean, and belly rub" bullshit boomers like to convey.

[@kansasgardener5844]

I thought the same thing. I don't break in a barrel but what I do is shoot a round then use a copper stripper.. Oh I guess I do break in barrels.

[@JamesTheScot]

You weren’t paying attention. He”s saying that everyone breaks in a barrel inevitably as they shoot it. It’s something that just happens naturally as you shoot it. It’s really just a matter of how few shots you want to put down range before you reach break in. The idea of a particular “best break in method” is sorta silly when you think about it. Consider all the variations in barrel steel that have been used over the decades, the different manufacturing techniques, the different jacket alloys, not to mention different bore diameters, velocities and pressures among all the various calibers. But yet there was one “best” way to break in a barrel? It’s laughable, really. Yet everyone has seen their method work and swears by it. Of course it worked. They all do. Because they all involve shooting which just naturally smooths out the bore imperfections.

[@RealBartBeasley]

Love the 10 minute talk format. Good info with the fluff removed. 100% agree with the approach described with one exception that is not mentioned. I always brush clean the bore and swab/brush the chamber of a new barrel, as there is good chance that some machining residue/debris remains. At that point, I do a very low round count "break-in" similar to what is described. This process is done in 20 rounds or less with approximately 3 cleanings through those 20 shots. I suppose I do still loosely follow a prescribed process (5 ish then clean, 5 ish then clean, 10 ish then clean), but then I'm pretty much done. My experience also supports some round count until barrel speeds up 20-30 fps (about 50 - 80 shots down barrel). However, those 50-80 shots are not wasted. In most cases, I am re-barreling in a chamber I already have load data for, and I am validating the ballistics, seating depth and group performance of a known load in the new barrel. In any event, great video. Thank You Vortex Nation Podcast.

[@martingagnon4547]

Ian is a real good teacher! He’s knowledgeable and he explains very well! Thanks guys!

[@Strutingeagle]

Yes really a good teacher. He starts off saying he doesn't break in his barrels then goes about saying how he breaks in his barrels. Wishy washy from the get go.

[@chipsterb4946]

I thought his explanation of burnishing was good.

[@DobyxRC]

“I don’t see the need to break in a barrel” Then proceeds to talk for the next 9 1/2 minutes about how to break in a barrel

[@MrJtin69]

Yes but saying you dont need to go shoot 120 rounds at once or right away to "break in"

[@derikbain8232]

Exactly

[@matthewroper7867]

That's good , Lol !

[@exothermal.sprocket]

Qualifies the shock statement later. But with today's stupidly short attention span...... I bet your comment was typed out early in the video.

[@jesseguerrero6631]

This guy makes no sense.. he doesn’t break in his barrels but he does break in his barrels

[@mikhailyaremkiv]

Ian is sharing master class level Barrel machining/internal ballistics Knowledge while the hosts are interrupting to ask basic barrel cleaning procedure questions so funny

[@blackhawk7r221]

The fresh sharp rifling of a new barrel has microscopic jagged feathered-over edges. As your first soft copper jacketed bullet travels down the bore, it acts to break off these tiny jagged edges and carry them down the barrel. Sorta hones the sharp edges. Problem is, lots of these tiny hard steel particles have now become wedged in the rifling valleys. You want to brush and swab this hard steel “sandpaper” out before your next shot. Do this for your first dozen shots.

[@exothermal.sprocket]

One might argue a cold hammer-forged bore doesn't have the same results, due to being hammered around a mandrel "negative" of the bore.

[@Oldhogleg]

Generally, by the time you've finished shooting something like a 100 rounds or so doing load development, it'll already be "broken in" by then; assuming you're cleaning the barrel every time with a copper solvent, of course. But lapped barrels typically don't need a "break in" period to smooth out machining/tooling, cutting burrs. But raw barrels with no lapping done will typically shoot like shit for the first few hundreds of rounds before the groups will tighten up. The short cut is to fire lap and polish the barrel with just 20 rounds from coarse to fine laboratory grade abrasives embedded on the bullet jackets. I've been fire lapping problem barrels for the last two decades using the NECO fire lapping kit I've bought back in the 90's. And it has fix all my problem barrels except one, a K31, no matter what I do, it never shoots groups smaller than 2 MOA.

[@dstdrummer]

Great info! Although breaking in a car engine is not really burnishing the pistons as the pistons don’t actually touch the cylinder walls. The piston rings do. It’s to seat the rings to the cylinder walls so the surfaces have a good seal. 👍🏽

[@justinturdeau2383]

Right. These guys are idiots.

[@exothermal.sprocket]

Yep. Takes adequate pressure to do that, pressure much higher than natural spring in the rings. Lower pressure (lower engine load, lower rpm) gradually followed by higher pressure (higher engine load, higher rpm). Heat cycles and oil changes early to aid in all the variance of metal expansion/changes/variations. Should about cover it.

[@Buckeyesully]

I haven't been watching these 10 minute talks in order, but wanted to say I think they are great.

[@herrcobblermachen]

wait- theres an order?

[@ryanwilson5936]

Soooooo, just shoot the gun and clean it every once in a while?… About what I figured.

[@user-un5my5bw4j]

I have been doing this for a fair amount of time. I have built rifles with almost every brand barrel out there, for my own builds and ones that a customer ask for me to buy what I recommend I use either X-Caliber or Brux. Brux are the straightest, finest barrels in my opinion. I do a 15 shot break in procedure and the reason is to reduce copper failing. Shot one do a full cleaning with wet patching powder solvent, copper solvent (I use boretech brand everything) synthetic brushing' dry patching, oil a patch ending with dry patching. That first shot u will pull so much copper out it will amaze u. Next shoot 2 then full clean. Next shoot 3 then full clean. Next shoot 4 then full clean. By now u will notice less copper fouling indicated by blue patches being swabbed out. Next shoot 5 and full clean and u will notice very little blue patches if any. This is 15shots and rifles come in here constantly that foul after 5 or 6 shots loosing accuracy after unless u clean them because this was not done. This is only my opinion thru my experience and my procedure was directed to me from a barrel manufacture I use and everyone has heard of so I'm pretty sure they know what there talking about. One more peice of advice, never use sweets or any ammonia based solvent people this accomplished should kno better than that by now. There are good solvents that are non ammonia based that work 3xbetter and faster than sweets like boretech CU2, butches bore shine, or proshot copper solvent IV

[@John_Redcorn_]

Uhh. Butch’s contains ammonia. Theres nothing wrong with ammonia-based cleaners if you follow the directions

[@user-un5my5bw4j]

Uhh, im looking at a bottle of butches in my shop and nowhere under ingredients or on the bottle does it say amonnia or sny substitute for it. Couldnt see Butch Fisher promoting anything in his time that would either

[@John_Redcorn_]

@@user-un5my5bw4j per Lyman’s MSDS, “Contains: 1,4-Diethylbenzene, Ammonium Hydroxide, Cumene, Napthalene, Calcium Sulfonate”

[@John_Redcorn_]

@@user-un5my5bw4j www.lymanproducts.com/media/user/file/0/2/02937_02940_02941_02953_02983_02985_02987_butch_s_bore_shine_reach_sds_rev_1_1.pdf

[@wildcatprecision]

Have have used sweets for over 30 years. I have never experienced any issues with it. Follow the instructions and you wont experience any issues.

[@russellkeeling4387]

I recently had a new Shilen barrel put on a rifle. I asked them about barrel breakin. I was told it's a button rifled barrel and needs no break in. Krieger barrels also says the same thing. The only area which might possible need some type of smoothing is the chamber wherein the machine marks are across the direction of the bullet travel.

[@OBSZIDIAN548]

Breaking in a barrel.......unreal. Shoot the rifle..clean it occasionally and go hunting. It's crazy

[@DallasRSnider]

Let’s say someone buys a new rifle, shots 20-30 rounds through it, what should that first clean include or look like? What solvents should be used?? How many passes?? Asking for a friend

[@robertsebacher44]

Do NOT try hand lapping a barrel unless you are both knowledgeable and experienced in the process. It is very easy to do more harm than good.

[@andy347495]

Thank God, someone is finally coming out and saying breaking in a barrel doesn't matter.

[@andy347495]

@Reel-Lentless john krieger said there is no need. Shilen said they only put a break-in procedure on their website because people kept asking about it; meaning they felt there is no need to do it.

[@cllistings5914]

Confused. Fire a round. Run a wet patch of copper solvent through the barrel. Wait 3 minutes. Then, run a clean dry patch and will see blue residue. Fire another round. Repeat the cleaning/firing process until there is NO blue on a clean patch run?

[@dylanhanson4065]

That’s my understanding of what he said, and I saw another video from another guy that said he “doesn’t break in” his barrels, described a very similar process. As well as a midway USA video describing another slightly different, but still pretty similar, minimal (apparently) type of break in process.

[@ericwainwright470]

Start out and clean good between 10 rounds, when the rifle cleans quickly with minimal effort she's good to go...they are all different...thats when it's "telling" you its done. Great podcast and explanation of what's happening in there👍🏻

[@Bullets4Bucks]

Can I be on your podcast

[@theoutdoorsman7408]

I broke in mine according to the manual. Who knows if it makes a difference but if anything were to go wrong for warranty if they ask me I did what it says. 10 single shots 5 minutes between them cleaning the bore each time then fire 2 shots 5 times so 10 total cleaning the bore each time 5 minutes in between

[@BRADASSOFFGRIDHOMESTEAD]

50 passes with JB and it's broke in. Don't waste your time wasting valuable rounds...

[@exothermal.sprocket]

Long bearing surface bullets. Fire one. Copper solvent patch pushed slowly down bore from chamber to muzzle and out. Wait 5 minutes. Dry patch pushed through chamber to muzzle and out. Repeat the above 5 times. I would say, take along the handy dandy Garmin chronograph and monitor velocity. You might have to do the above process for 10 rounds to notice, maybe not.

[@luloadventure]

Would be nice to make this Podcast again with Ryan to know his opinion about this Topic.

[@atonyb88nola]

What about precision rifles such as Weatherby Mark V Deluxe chambered in .300 Mag?

[@Powderfinger308]

“Barrel break-in” huh? Twenty years ago I bought my Steyr SSG, took it to the range and it was dead on and has been dead on ever since. I shot a box of 20 with a friend and went home for beers. No tinkering, or wasting time. Just shoot your guns!!! You should be able to buy a quality gun and have it shooting

[@nyjetsfan4455]

Doesnt the manufacturer shot rounds out of every gun before they sell it? If so then its probably already broken in. The only thing id do is give it a quick cleaning a couple of passes with a patch and some cleaning oil before i shoot it for the first time.

[@bryanmcpherson3576]

I never break my battles in and I clean them often with solvent patches and brushes. Rifling is rifling . Got brush that copper out

[@damonoswald40]

whar about the ptr91 break in, just more click bait ??? And damn, talk about pride, a wall mural of yourself aiming a gun !

[@SlimSlashie]

He doesn't break in his barrels, but if he did he has a method that he talks about later. So he DOES, in fact, break in his barrels. Liar.

[@connerm4850]

“I don’t break in barrels” Continues to describe his break in procedure

[@timharder4610]

Yeah but, where's the proof? Some of the absolute best shooters in the world absolutely never does a break-in.

[@kevinclark8782]

Someone could make a lot of money if they designed burnishing bullets.

[@scottsquires6186]

Just like your first girlfriend some girl do and some girls don’t

[@andrewlopez6195]

Cars are usually 5-10k miles to brake in right?

[@bille.334]

I have never seen high quality hand lapped a barrel "break in" in 10 shots. Bartlien, Proof, Blake, Rock Creek, ect all speed up by up to 100+ fps ove the course of about 75-150 rounds before the velocity stabalizes. Whether you need to clean between every X or Y amount of rounds isnt that important IMO. I also try keeping the barreI from getting too hot or shooting high pressure loads to maintain its life and accuracy.

[@bille.334]

Reel-Lentless plenty of reasons... brass life, barrel life, load consistency, avoiding load development. The difference between a hot load and a mild load in my 6GT is about 100-150fps. If you think that is going to make you a better shooter, well then have at it. Top shooters in the country are shooting mild loads, they just can read the wind better. With primers being in such short supply, I prefer to not have to “chase” hot loads as the throat of my barrel erodes quickly. I also prefer not to have to buy a new barrel more frequently and have to deal with break in and load development, especially now with component shortages. If I have the choice of running X cartridge hot to get my desired velocity, or running Y cartridge in a milder load to get the same velocity, I’m going to take the more mild load which will probably also be more consistent. And that is why you down load it. My 6GT performs the same on a mild load as a 6BR on a hot load, and I’m well over 2K rounds on my GT with not much throat erosion, and getting 10+ firings on Hornady brass. Not to mention, take a hot load to a match when it is raining or really hot out. Blown primers and heavy bolt lift isn’t fun. Mild loads don’t have that problem, which matters when you are traveling to shoot.

[@bille.334]

@Reel-Lentless I am talking about target shooting. If you are shooting a rifle for terminal ballistics, then all of that goes out the window. I compete shooting steel mostly with high round count matches. It doesnt matter how much energy the bullet has. Consistency matters more. I also probably shoot exponentially more rounds than someone with a hunting rifle or ELR rifle. I would push the bullets harder in that case too, just because the round count isn't going to be that high or I would want to deliver as much energy as possible when hunting. I'm shooting a barrel out in 3-4 months.

[@JamesTheScot]

This. Cleaning the copper out is just returning the barrel to a condition where it can more easily be burnished. It doesn’t really matter how often you clean it in terms of what eventually happens. It’s just a matter of how many rounds it takes to reach that stabilized/broken in condition. More frequent cleaning means it gets the barrel to stabilize that much sooner. But we’re talking about a difference in, say, a few dozen rounds. Considering the service life of the barrel, that’s nothing.

[@brucenovotny5924]

Great, my last request granted. Thank you guys... 🙂👍🇨🇦

[@karlparker5343]

For a production barrel would I use 15-20 rounds and clean between each one?

[@VortexNation]

Correct! As Ian mentions, you're only going to burnish the barrel if it's bare steel, so shoot a round, run a patch soaked in solvent down the barrel, wait 3 minutes to let it take effect, run a clean patch down and repeat the process until the clean patch comes out still clean (Or at least minus the blue color Ian mentions).

[@karlparker5343]

Thank you so much for a speedy reply. Yall do a lot for the firearms community and for that I say thank you. Keep up the fine work.

[@TSNOutdoors]

I built a gun once. Shoots .5 moa. It was expensive. Bought a savage once too. It shoots half moa. Now idk why I built one.

[@MrSabram07]

This guy's a freaking genius

[@Bushmasterpilot]

He says” I don’t break my barrels in”, then proceeds to explain the burnishing process and how he uses a long bearing surface bullet to break his barrel in, LOL! I’ve studied barrel behaviour for over 35 years, every barrel takes a certain amount of rounds down the pipe to obtain maximum velocity. I have seen a stainless Tikka T3 barrel take around 125 rounds till it settled at max velocity, almost 125 fps faster than brand new virgin barrel. I have also seen most Browning standard barrels go 75-100 rounds. Take it for what you want, but the chronograph don’t lie, and this is all with my standard handloads for 7mm Rem mag. 125fps makes a pretty good change on your P.O.I. at 500+ yards. Thanks for the discussion!

[@UltimateArms]

i have a IBI barrel and was never told to break in the barrel other than cleaning it, then shoot it

[@scottsteiert9998]

very well said! one of the best explanations of barrel break in I have every heard!

[@VortexNation]

Glad you enjoyed, Scott :)

[@donbenson5292]

Stick with rifles. You don't Burnish hi spots off cylinders. You seat the rings because of the cross hatch finish in the cylinders. Built many engines and if a cylinder has high spots, it needs a good examination of the guy who did the cylinder work!!! I clean my barrels before first shot spotless. Every 5 rounds or so depending on the barrel until first 50. Some factory barrels takes a good 200 rounds to smooth it out

[@timhatchett7048]

I shoot about 20 in a high-powered, my Armorlite A.R. 10 I shot one cleaned it for 50 rounds the boy has one just like it man I’m out she has 10 to 1 and put every shot in my finger nail I believe Amber will it break him it’s a heavy barrel stainless steel it’s just like a motor you have to break them in…!!!!!! You do what you won’t I’ll shoot with you any day…!!! I lapped a10:22 barrel then shot 50 led heads cleaned after every Five shot I’m out shooting people that’s goddamn fancy 1022s that isn’t a Ruger anymore I’m shooting with them are better I lost my legs and that’s all I got to do everybody can argue what I want

[@realisrealite5554]

When I had my Suzuki gsx-r1100 engine built I had to break it in.Dont get it too hot,don't run it too hard,vary the rpms ect.When I got my car engine built same rules.Now days cars engines are broke in at the factory.I consider my AR barrels broke in when I purchase them.But they're Colt military barrels not boutique barrels.

[@tomspithaler8448]

Funny how Ian flatly states that he does not break in barrels, but then at 6:45 begins going through the details of how he actually breaks in his barrels! LOL! I get that everyone has a different way of defining barrel break in is different but what he is describing can only be called 'barrel break in'. Then, at the 8:00 mark actually uses the phrase to state that the barrel will tell you when its done breaking in. Kinda funny.

[@Jeff_Seely]

Barrel break-in is just like religion. Everybody has their own right way and anyone who strays is just plain wrong. I have never broken any barrel in and I like what my favorite barrel mfg says, which is that they have not done any barrel break-in testing and so the owner of the new barrel should proceed according to his or her break-in standards.

[@brucec2635]

My first build and want to take care of the barrel. You are the fourth I have listened to. WOW. Information overload was amazing. THANK YOU. I was lucky dumb with my first AR-10. Shot five and cleaned three times. Shot better than I thought a DPMS should shoot.

[@connorbarnstable9148]

Soo factory barrels, after 10-20 rounds just take the rifle home and give the bore a cleaning to remove copper fouling? And call it good?

[@fishrrelaxing9361]

Wo watching this.. breaking in means nothing.. the steel is so hard if there is an imperfection needing to be worked out it would take thousands of rounds to even register a change.. you may need some fouling shots to condition the barrel to the ammo used but beyond that 🤷‍♂️ Now you may have an action that has tolerances that are soo tight that they might loosen up and become more reliable over time.. but a barrel lol.. the steel is too hard for a copper or lead bullet to do anything to it lol

[@nikolatrninic4356]

Nice video, nice tos ay hat some factories like Tikka/Sako or Bergara do it for you :) No need for barrel break.in coz they are in a way "use tested" before you buy them.

[@danbandito]

30 round mag dump for a Ar is perfect break in

[@terry5008]

Barrel manufacturers could solve this argument once and for all by selling pre-broke-in barrels. The only problem is, would that be used?

[@mikesalmon9945]

Kruger? Barrels owner said about the same….. shoot clean shoot clean say 3-4 times then clean your barrel when your groups open up

[@ngirardo86]

I've picked up every gun ive owned from the box and shot it..cleaned after everytime I shoot..no problems whatsoever

[@xenomorph1317]

Nowhere in the Tikka’s manual it is stated to break in the barrel. Only to maintain your firearm regularly…..