VTEC Head Ports & Valves Cleanup DIY | D16Z6 PO8 SOHC

[@raygangibbs3762]

You can actually pair the engine/carbon cleaner with the hot water, putting them together really makes a huge difference

[@CowboyTomi]

This was really helpful as I'm prepping the same engine now for a build. Thank you for sharing!

[@RisingBoostYT]

Glad it was helpful!

[@HummyHitVTEC]

this was a really satisfying video to watch. very nice content! I am a sohc enthusiast myself

[@RisingBoostYT]

Hi Hummy, making the second video following on this one now, will be out soon. The SOHC motors are by far the best "bang for buck" motors to make some power. can handle decent power in stock form for an underdog base model economy motor. parts are also super cheap!

[@raygangibbs3762]

Lets goo bro, get it done

[@Comitis840]

Leave the imperfections there, believe it or not, it accounts for better airflow. Also called the "Golfball effect" (The indentations in the ball help its aerodynamics).

[@RisingBoostYT]

thanks for the info

[@jalis812]

Golfball should be make at certain places. Thats when its effective

[@georgerobartes2008]

The best way to remove carbon is to fill the exhaust ports with mix of used ATF and a little petrol before removing the valves. ATF has superior 'creep' properties than most oils ( which is why automatic transmissions have complicated sealing systems ) and will soften the coke quickly the longer you leave it . About a 1/3rd petrol to old ATF makes a great penetrating fluid too . Make sure you remove casting flash from the inside of the can carrier area to aid oil drain back and remove any pieces that may break off in reassembly . I deburr everything as many of the internal machined surfaces are razor sharp . Non VTEC heads are a little prone to over oiling the top end , especially when running a high volume/ pressure pump . I make oil restrictors from 10mm diameter aluminium round bar with a 1.5mm or 1.3 mm restrictor hole , which still supplies plenty of oil to the top but keeps the volume and pressure around the crank to eliminate bearing failures .

[@RisingBoostYT]

Hi Bro, thanks for the ATF tip, I will be working on a B18 soon that has even worse carbon buildup than the one I did here. it was not a fun project so I will definitely try it. On this head I did debur everything I could find, especially around the deck where the engineering shop did some work. This PO8 Head actually has a very small oil restrictor built in after the vtec oil feed part. there is also a second tiny oil restrictor in the vtec solenoid that is used when vtec is not engaged. but thanks for the tip, I know the older d series motors form like a EG civic has that restrictor in the block. so if you swop a block you could end up with no oil restrictor to the head.

[@haganstrauss6629]

I have an Ek with a d16z6 motor has never been pulled...have no plan on boosting it due to it being so hard to find

[@bezaproductions8106]

Really informative vid🤘 Excellent content 👌

[@RisingBoostYT]

Hi, thanks for the support, noticed you are a fellow local Automotive KZbinr! will definitely go check out your content!

[@bezaproductions8106]

@@RisingBoostYT Thank you so much for the support we seriously appreciate it 🙏🤘

[@smallenginekid6252]

Mine was the same way instead of using a screw driver I used a wire brush attachment on my drill

[@RisingBoostYT]

Awesome, I could not find a wire brush small enough to fit in the runners. And the dremmil wire wheels would fail almost immediately.

[@smallenginekid6252]

@@RisingBoostYT ya the dremel sucks lol I used it with sandpaper maybe I’ll make a video and show u how I did it?

[@clayzymn]

Thanks 👍

[@RisingBoostYT]

Welcome 👍

[@zackaryschuster4975]

keep up the content

[@RisingBoostYT]

Hi, thank for the support! Posted a new video today

[@Justin-time-sy3hx]

Ayee bro just watched this video and might do this to my head soon it’s a y8 head it’s starting to make a gargle/growl noise at very low rpm around 1,000-1500 and if you hold it you can hear it trying to see if it’s not the lmas or valve clearance but I did both when I installed them back in lubed everything but still makes growl noise any tips?

[@RisingBoostYT]

Hi Juan, normally the low rpm noise is valve train but that is more a ticking sound, I would recommend you check that your cam belt is not to tight, that can cause a whining sound. if that does not work, pull the cam out and check the cam journals for damage. however before anything check your alternator and power steering pump, they tend to make a noise like that. you can use a long screw driver, press the metal part against the pump and the handle against your ear.

[@corona8657]

Any more vids coming up?

[@RisingBoostYT]

Hi Bro, thanks for the support. yes, planning to upload regularly very soon. been working on my garage setup.

[@savuthyean3138]

What type of bit is that

[@RisingBoostYT]

Hi Savuth, difficult to say, it is listed as a "soft grinding disk" and it is not as hard as the pink grinding stones. it is however still tough. I only used 1 disk for all the exhaust ports. I got it in a cheap universal tool bit kit.

[@johnhobby53]

its super good,, but dont spray paint the head, its childlish

[@RisingBoostYT]

Hi John, the main reason I painted the head was because the previous owner sand blasted the surface making it rough, the problem with that is it gets dirty very easy and it's not easy to clean. the paint seals the surface and makes it easier to clean later.

[@4077661466jp]

😂 wow that's some scary stuff, never seen anything other than sanding cones or carbide attachments used to improve port dimensions and surface clean up = increased airflow, all that is waste of time based on this video tutorial 😂

[@RisingBoostYT]

Well seen it here first! in my case it would be a massive waste of time, 5+ hours porting for 10hp gain,,,, or 3 clicks on the boost controller for 40hp gain in 1 second. idk, for my needs it looks like a big waste of time.