VW Golf MK1 restoration ep.12 - ALTERNATOR

[@charliecoco2115]

Can't wait to see all this stuff on the car.

[@upcyclethepastutp9901]

me too ! :D

[@lamarrox5929]

Same here.

[@tj93cjc]

Great job man , the shelf is filling up. You gonna need a bigger shelf :)

[@upcyclethepastutp9901]

Thank you mate ! I will relocate the tools from the lower shelfs and job done :D !

[@christopherthumm4348]

5:43 did he say it looks pretty Dope?

[@ramezgoldman6590]

i like this series good job bro

[@lamarrox5929]

I had to recondition two alternators for my build, but thankfully the second time around we got it right.

[@efstratios.grammenis]

Super! Great job mate.

[@upcyclethepastutp9901]

Thank you mate !

[@dan-andreichira4734]

amazing job!

[@alxcozma]

Very nice and well done 👍

[@82DieselBunny]

Ugh!!! 😍😍😍😍

[@leonardocafferata6697]

Hi, very nice video. I have a 90A alternator for a mk2 16V, and Id like to restore it like you have, where can I get the parts which I need to replace and how can I know what are the part numbers or specs? Thanks

[@upcyclethepastutp9901]

I buy most of the parts from Autodoc, the current regulator is from there. The bearings I took them off, and went to a store which is specialized in bearings. Other than that you might have to buy some new bolts and nuts from a hardware store :)

[@alexanderiskander9621]

I have a 90 amps alternator, what battery capacity is best suited ?

[@1976djcook]

First 😎

[@upcyclethepastutp9901]

Yes you are :D !

[@waynep343]

hint when testing charging systems. battery close to fully charged.. engine running. headlights on.. digital volt meter set to 20 volts DC.. test 1. positive to negative battery post.. 14.1 to 14.8 volts. test 2. Negative battery post to the engine block.. 0.04 volts DC max. test 2B Negative battery post to the alternator rear case.. 0.04 volts DC. this checks the alternator case ground connection on rubber bushing mounted alternators. test 3. Negative battery post to the body.. .again 0.04 volts dc.. 4/100ths of a volt.. test 4. engine block to body.. 0.04 volts Max.. test 5 goes Positive battery post to the underhood fuse block on cars so equipped . it can also to to the fusible links mounted on top of the battery on newer VWs and other cars . that should be 0.04 volts.. test 6.. Positive battery post to the alternator output stud threads.. this could be as high as 0.3 volts. less is better. these tests prove your major electrical connections are properly made and there is no excessive resistance.. test 6 is higher as there is a lot of current flowing thru the alternator output circuit.. copper is expensive.. so the manufacturers undersize that cable to save a lot of money. why did i type all that.. i have been a professional mechanic for 42 years.. doing tons of electrical work along with engine controls.. mom (rip) had a 87 cabriolet that kept blowing up alternators. since i lived 1200 miles from her i got her to perform the above tests.. she found test 2B was insane.. the guys who had replaced the alternators had left the ground cable off the alternator case. . so i thought i would share.. when i find an issue.. i narrow down the actual issue by narrowing down the test locations.. i have found so many tiny issues that when fixed the car works so much better.. copy it down and send it to your self in an email to use later.. or sooner. nothing better when working on VW or any car is to get the Bugs out. .

[@upcyclethepastutp9901]

Wow, thank you man for the advice! I will save these informations and do the test when the car will be put together. Usually I perform the first 3 steps that you mentioned. Years of wisdom always usefull and thank you for sharing !

[@waynep343]

@@upcyclethepastutp9901 had a countach in for a charging system issue.. took the gilmer belt drive bosch alternator to the best rebuilder i know.. i ask for the voltage regulator with adjustable voltage output. as i wanted 14.8 volts since the alternator is at the back on the engine and the rest many electronic devices are up front and the voltage drop was terrible. i did reconfigure the power to the 2 radiator fans, 2 high pressure fuel pumps, fuel injection computers and ac compressor clutch to run off the alternator output before it went to the front of the car. but the alternator man said the adjustable regulators don't exist. i said i buy them from xyx .. he said xyz is my supplier too. they don't make them. i said their in the catalog.. he called and was really upset that a customer new more about the brand of components than he did. when i was done the owner of the countach also said the ac worked so much better than he no longer needed to open the doors at stop signs to get fresh air in the cabin.. i always thought they did that to look cool.. not to really be cool. . the countach owner also had a 70 ford torino. cobra version with the massive 429SCJ engine.. after i finished working on that.. he said the ford is now faster than the countach.. all i did was go up several sizes of idle jets till it ran like it should.. he did have one complaint. he could not pull away from a stop sign without spinning the rear tires no matter how he feathered the gas pedal.. i said i can take some power out. he said no, i like it. that way..

[@Thomaszarofka]

Tesla radio... 😀

[@upcyclethepastutp9901]

The only Tesla that i can afford xD

[@Thomaszarofka]

@@upcyclethepastutp9901 Brand from our country :-)

[@JoseJimenez-rc2iw]

the bearings should not be hit