VW T3: Vanagon Fuel Tank Removal

When & Where Needed:
*** Raise & support the vehicle safely according to Manufacturer Jacking & Supporting Positions!!! ***
Rate, Comment, Share, Subscribe, Let the Ads play... I'm still paying off my tools!! Tool or Coffee & Donut Donations welcome at my website below!!
fkh161.ca/
Discuss this video in the Subscribed Members Forum:
exovcds.freeforums.org/

[@jesusramonmenchacabenito4188]

Hello: Today I have traveled another 25 km and everything is normal. I would like not to bother you again. That would indicate that this problem is resolved. Many thanks. Now I know my VW T3 much better. Regards

[@hurley323]

I am currently stuck in Fussen Germany on my honeymoon with a T3 that we bought to travel europe in. Unfortunately I am in a position where I need to change the fuel tank due to my own stupidity (I allowed the diesel tank to run out of fuel). I will absolutely use this video to help me change the fuel tank and hopefully get us back on track. Thank you sir for posting this video. I know it will help me.

[@EXOVCDS]

Why do you need to replace the tank after running out of fuel? If it doesn't have a leak, fill it back up.

[@lastname3924]

Exactly the video I needed! The first person view is so helpful.

[@EXOVCDS]

Some of my older videos have bad lighting... sorry. If you have questions about something, let me know.

[@jesusramonmenchacabenito4188]

Hello Mr. Thomas: Thank you very much for your explanation and for listening and answering my question. This morning I'm going to the electronic supply store. Placing the capacitor is easy and cheap. I will inform you of the result obtained. I repeat, thank you very much

[@EXOVCDS]

OK... let me know if the problem continues. If it does, I will think of other reasons for the power loss.

[@brettcannon74]

I'm doing this in 2 days! Thanks for posting, I'm just using ramps and jack stands

[@EXOVCDS]

Sorry about the noisy video... here's another removal video (might have better lighting). Removing / lowering the tank mounting straps might be an issue... they need to be lowered / tilted quite a bit. kzbin.info/www/bejne/n361o4t7fptojrs

[@brettcannon74]

I need help getting the seals on the vent tubes on tank.

[@EXOVCDS]

@@brettcannon74 All seals in the tank should be installed first and the pipes are pushed into place after. I lube the seals with rubbre grease and then using the palm of my hand, push & rotate them into place. Lube the inside of the seal and the pipe that is pushed in and then push the pipe into place (gas tank already mounted at this point. REach through the wheel well to push the pipes into the grommets / seals.

[@jesusramonmenchacabenito4188]

What is observed in the pause (0:58) is an electric cable. Do not worry. I will leave the tubes unconnected and I hope they do not take me to jail for contaminating. When I disassembled the fuel tank I didn't see any tube to connect to. However, I may ask you other questions about my VWT3 again. I'm not a mechanic but I try to get it working. Many thanks.

[@Volkswagenvanrunning]

After watching this, I will do anything to avoid pulling my Vanagon fuel tank!! :)

[@EXOVCDS]

Sorry... I only have 2 videos showing tank removal. Both are not that great and the noise that I added (to cover shop radio music) was too loud. Vanagon fuel tanks are REALLY simple to remove!!! Don't let my videos put too much worry in your head. Even if you only have drive-on ramps to raise the front of the Van, there is still enough clearance for tank removal. Obviously, draining as much fuel as possible is the main first step. The tank is light enough for one person to handle... but the help of a second person is always a good idea (safety etc).

[@Volkswagenvanrunning]

@@EXOVCDS Wow - thank you so much for replying - never expected it on an older (but very good) video. Appreciate the encouragement, I just fear breaking the expansion tanks, etc. - van sitting in a field for 20 years and endless varnish clogging injectors/fuel rail/filters. Guess I will suck it up and do the swap after all. Beats having to clean your fuel injectors every 45 minutes of driving - more maintenance than an F-35.

[@Volkswagenvanrunning]

Thanks again - tackled the tank today and it was not the end of the world after all, you were right. :) Only issue I ran into is as I do not have ramps I cannot get the van high enough to let the fuel tank straps swing clear. May have to dig the yard down! Tank right full of tar so end of the road for it. Keep the great videos coming - I have a fleet of Cabrios, Jettas and Westfalias and always find great useful stuff in your videos.

[@EXOVCDS]

Shit... sorry, I forgot about the tank rails.

[@jesusramonmenchacabenito4188]

Thank you very much for answering. The charcoal can is not behind the right rear wheel. Neither is it on the other wheels. So, I have left the two pipes on top of the fuel tank but not connected. I'm sorry. I can't attach a photo.

[@EXOVCDS]

Someone probably removed it... you can post a video on your channel, so you can show me what you see.

[@carlbs11]

Thanks. I appreciate the skill and quickness that you are able to get this job done. I'm in the midst of it. Amazingly, or not, I pulled all the lines out of the tank grommets using my pinky. So that's why I get a cup of fuel or so when I fill up -- the overflow tube/grommet was the worst. Also, why didn't you replace the sender when you already had it out?...seemed kind of beat up (probably a cheap, er cash conscious customer). And you took out the two strap bolts and the two straps and the tank didn't come crashing down? I have a jack and two jack stands under my tank as we speak...just waiting for the PB Blaster to do its work before I take out the two bolts tomorrow. It looks like an hour job for you...6 hours for me!

[@EXOVCDS]

+carlbs11 We drain the tank as much as possible... it will drop, but should not crash down as long as it is supported. Yeah, fuel senders are a touchy item. If it ain't broke, we just replace the seal. Aftermarket senders can be junk and yes, customers always want to pay as little as possible.

[@WhyDotas]

Hello, I can’t Do a full fill my tank it overflow everytime I try… just half a tank and it starts overflow thru the hole, where is the isue? Air ain’t come out of the tank?

[@EXOVCDS]

Are you sure that the fuel gauge is showing correct level? Remove the small plastic breather tube from the main filler neck. There should be a rubber seal between the filler neck nipple and where the nipple slides into the breather tube. If that rubber seal is broken, it could be blocking air from getting out of the tank.

[@jesusramonmenchacabenito4188]

Hello, I have been slow to respond because the results obtained have surprised me and I thought I had done something wrong. Also, when I use fuel I take a lot of precautions. The pressure in the port next to the distribuitor is between 2.5 and 3 bar. I thought there was a leak but couldn't find it. I repeated the test and got the same results. Then, suddenly, the idle increased the rpm. The idle valve was stuck. This piece, I suppose Chinese, was changed in a mechanical workshop. Fortunately, he kept the original. I installed it and everything normal. I cleaned and greased the outside of the throttle plate. Maybe sometimes it didn't open correctly. Tomorrow I'll take it apart and clean it. In the late afternoon I traveled 30 km without problems Maybe the problem will reappear tomorrow. Sure, but I don't know. Regards

[@EXOVCDS]

2.5 to 3 bar is good. The idle valve was most likely the problem, if the problem does not happen again.

[@sergeyhemi8270]

Thanks 👍😊

[@EXOVCDS]

Thank you for watching!

[@jesusramonmenchacabenito4188]

The capacitor removed. At the moment, I don't have a pressure gauge to measure fuel pressure. However, I have measured the flow of the fuel pump, before and after the fuel pressure regulating valve: * Before (500cc / 11 ") * After (500cc / 14") In the second case, the fuel contains many air bubbles. The O2 sensor of my VW T3, either does not have it or I do not see it. Normally this sensor is located in the exhaust gas pipe. Is this correct? Thank you for assisting me.

[@EXOVCDS]

The fuel pressure regulator might be returning too much fuel to the fuel tank... but I can't be sure without knowing the fuel pressure.

[@jesusramonmenchacabenito4188]

Hello: I like your videos and I think you can help me. Thanks I have taken the T3 to several mechanical nd they do not solve the problem . Sometimes the throttle does not respond even though the engine does not stop. A variable time passes, and it works correctly again, but you can do it again at any time. I don't know if it's from the fuel circuit or the air intake, etc. Can you tell me what steps to take? I hope I have expressed myself and that you understand the problem. Thank you

[@EXOVCDS]

What year and which engine? I'm at work, but will reply again once I am at home after work.

[@SLine992]

is your garage a European specialist?

[@jesusramonmenchacabenito4188]

Hello: I already put the capacitor in the MAF sensor (+) on pin 2 and (-) on pin 4). I started the engine but, after opening the coolant thermostat, the problem reappeared. I waited for the engine to cool down and started it again. This time, the problem appeared just when starting the engine. Sorry to insist to try to solve the problem. Thanks

[@EXOVCDS]

I'm sorry that the capacitor did not help... you can remove it again (until the real problem is found). Can you attach a fuel pressure gauge and monitor pressure while the problem happens? Also check the voltage from the O2 sensor, like in this video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/e2bCmYaCbNp7rNE Monitor the signal with a multimeter... the signal should change from 0.10 to 0.80 Vdc up/down/up etc. If the signal sticks low or high, then there is a problem. It is best to check with another person... one person drives the vehicle, while the other person looks at the voltmeter (person is sitting in the back seat holding the multimeter... engine lid is off).

[@StanTheMan-us3tp]

My old tank never free flowed. I recently changed my tank because debris wore my fuel pump prematurely and it would whine. My new pump still makes a gurgle sound. Also my expansion tank cap is loose

[@EXOVCDS]

Sometimes, air / vapor gets trapped in the hose in front of the pump... even when the tank is full. I have found that the air can be removed by lowering the pump, which straightens the fuel feed hose, and running the engine like that for a while. Once the air / vaor is gone, the pump will be quieter and can be raised back up into its normal mounting position.

[@StanTheMan-us3tp]

Aaahhhh ok will thy this, having said that my feed hose is longer, goes up and then comes down…its not straight….ill try this thanks.

[@jesusramonmenchacabenito4188]

Hello: I have seen your videos related to the change of the fuel tank of the VW T3 and I like them. Mine, 2.1 inj, was leaking gasoline. It had all the rubber gaskets damaged. When I put it back in its place I have a question and, please, can you help me? According to the Bently manual (page 20.26 / 27) the tubes coming out of the expansion tank, go to the charcoal filter. Where is this filter? When I disassembled the tank, these tubes at the end had a cone-shaped rubber but were not connected to any filter. what do you think? Sorry for the inconvenience and thank you very much. I am writing to you from Spain.

[@EXOVCDS]

The charcoal canister is located behind the right rear wheel. www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1607168.jpg

[@jesusramonmenchacabenito4188]

Hello, I have not started the VW T3 in a week. Since nothing had been repaired, I was sure it would reappear. After 15 minutes of idling, the problem has reappeared. An hour later, I have tried to start the engine and the problem continues. After another hour, it works normal. The next day, in the morning, OK. In the afternoon, just when starting the problem returned.I'm very confused and I don't know what to do.

[@EXOVCDS]

Usually I suggest to monitor O2 sensor voltage... if your van does not have an O2 sensor, it should still have the green O2 sensor wire close to the ignition coil... like in this video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/e2bCmYaCbNp7rNE If your van has this wire... measure the voltage when the ignition key is ON and when the engine is running. What are the voltages? If your van does not have this green wire, you can check that the ECM relay & fuel pump relay supply good battery power to the ECM & the fuel pump (by checking voltage going INTO & coming OUT OF the relays. The relays are in a black plastic box above the ignition coil.

[@heart4Pahoa]

Great info, thank you for sharing? What do you charge to drop the tank & install a new one? Assuming nothing else is needed...

[@szd55ggix]

thanks for the half axle comment, you are all over the place here. The cross over seals are leaking (can't get a full tank gas without a puddle), does the tank have to be removed or can one reach over and snag the seals for a re&re? I am 4 days into a vanagon re&re and learning every. What type of camera are you using?

[@EXOVCDS]

Mark Schneider No matter the leak, it is best to drop the tank and replace all the hoses & grommets / seals. kzbin.info/www/bejne/iIGshYKiodGDoq8

[@EXOVCDS]

Mark Schneider I don't stick to the same step-by-step with a lot of the repairs I do... what works for one may not work for someone else (there's more than one way to skin a cat).

[@szd55ggix]

***** Hi Thomas, I did the split axles and shocks over the week end. I noticed in the box of parts 2- 45 degree motor mounts looking underneath at the engine support bar , I figure one has to remove the engine in order to replace the mounts. Could one support the engine and remove the bar then replace the 2 mounts? thanks,

[@EXOVCDS]

Mark Schneider Yes, if you support the engine from above or from below, you can remove the engine bracket and replace those mounts. You will have to remove the muffler and the exhaust pipe to give you access to the bolts. kzbin.info/www/bejne/fWiok6uIeL2jrM0m54s

[@szd55ggix]

Hi Thomas, do you have any vanagon power steering videos? I am in the process of replacing the pressure line at the pump and the go westy kit is different than the original (must be new and improved...), Bentley does not show the sensor in the manual while the kit diagram indicates that one can unscrew the sensor and reinstall with a new washer/gasket to the new kit/fittings. I do not see threads on the sensor and before I reef on it I would like to know if I am going down the right path. thanks.

[@carlbs11]

Thomas, I got another question for you. I got my tank out, replaced the grommets and cross over pipe and sender. Got it reinstalled. But now as soon as I press the accelerator, the rpms stay up at 2500 -- basically the new "idle". It seems like the new crossover pipe was a little shorter than the original; but I followed the advice on another video to put it over the top of the collant lines AND over the throttle line. I'm now thinking it's pressing down on the throttle line causing it to bind a little and thus the sticking throttle. Does this make sense to you? Think I have to drop the tank again to put the crossover pipe under the throttle line?

[@EXOVCDS]

+carlbs11 you should be able to see the pipe & gas cable when looking through the driver wheel well. While at high idle, use a long screwdriver and lift the pipe a little to see if the rpms drop.

[@carlbs11]

+Thomas EXOVCDS Good idea. Not sure what I can see looking into that slot even with my head poked into the wheelwell. The crossover pipe is pretty rigid so I'm not sure it I could move the throttle cable "up" to see if "idle" drops. Had a hell of a time getting that grommet to seat (used a long lever and shims) and it seemed a little short (angled away from me). But I'll give it a try. Sure don't want to have to drop the tank again. Do you remember putting the crossover pipe over the accelerator cable too or just the coolant lines?

[@EXOVCDS]

***** Are you sure it's the gas cable? The cable enters a plastic tube ahead of the spare tire... what you are seeing at the crossover pipe is the hand brake cable. The pipe should go under the hand brake cable. Release the hand brake and see if the idle drops.

[@carlbs11]

+Thomas EXOVCDS I need to get a more powerful flashlight to see into the wheel well. That will hopefully tell me if the crossover pipe went over the throttle cable in the plastic sheath or the ebrake cable. I looked in the opening/tunnel from the back of the tank and the throttle cable/tubing goes up and out of sight before it gets to the crossover pipe. I was using the handbrake on and off and it made no difference. I'll take a look in the wheelwell and will probably bother you further. Thanks.

[@carlbs11]

+Thomas EXOVCDS Good news. I dropped the spare to get a good look at the cross over and throttle cable sheath. The plastic throttle sheath was actually over the cross over pipe and should actually have been under it (as another video explained). So the copipe was displacing the throttle cable sheath upward thus not allowing the cable enough slack to retract on the idle set screw above the engine. So then I noticed the cable set screw under the gas pedal. Gave the cable a little slack and adjusted the idle set screw at engine and I'm good to go. The Bentley has a more complicated and completely different way to set idle involving a kick down setting on the tranny (it's an autobox) that I don't want to mess with. Don't think it ever kicked down anyway since I've had it. Thanks for the advice to actually check it out better; I was ready to drop that sucker again.

[@rolandberard8958]

What year van was this. I don't believe my 1985 has a rollover valve and return lines?? Thanks

[@EXOVCDS]

Gas or diesel?

[@rolandberard8958]

GAs - My mistake. I looked again at some videos and new tanks and the lines are there. Thanks

[@type2523]

I think that you should try van-again .com they have very good prices and kenn(the owner)is very nice to his customers

[@EXOVCDS]

Thank you for the tip!

[@type2523]

Thomas EXOVCDS you're welcome and I hope that you can get your parts cheaper and in better prices by van-again