VW T5 van Air Conditioning fixed - Edd China's Workshop Diaries 49.

[@boing615]

I've never seen a system fail so comprehensively as this AC, are you parking this thing on an ancient burial site Ed?

[@eddchina]

It might just bury it, if it doesn’t behave after this!

[@almorgan68]

@@eddchina hi edd just been watching repeats of wheeler dealers and the hilarious episode you and Mike trying to drive the Darravq Type L from London to Brighton

[@JxH]

Which part of "Volkswagen" did we overlook? ;-) Nice cars, but they're unfortunately laced with VAG parts.

[@lanceboyle4255]

Jack up the emblem and slide a new van underneath

[@mickd6942]

​@@lanceboyle4255 underrated comment LMAO

[@superduke1339]

Hi Edd. Nice series on your van ac system. Just thought I could give you a couple of tips which may be of help. On most VAG vehicles with manual aircon the recirculation button operation is locked out if the vents are set to demist the windscreen. This is to prevent circulation of damp air which will hinder the demisting process. Also I have changed many of these control units with damaged flap control mechanisms and associated bent cables. This is caused by trying to change which air vents are open whilst the fan is set to a high speed. The resulting air pressure against any closed flap is too high for the mechanism and over stresses the weak components fitted by Volkswagen. If you reduce fan speed a noticible drop in force is required to turn the air direction control and the mechanism will last much longer. I hope this is of some use to you and keep up the good work.

[@crofts4369]

The main issue with these T5 control panels is the air flow selector is not supposed to turn from 12 O'clock, in a clockwise direction, but people force it, if you want to change selection from WINDSCREEN (12 o'clock position) to FACE (3 o'clock) you MUST rotate ANTI CLOCKWISE, later panels no longer had a printed index on this quarter, and had a more positive stop to prevent it. Once it has been forced you may find that selecting face actually blows air to the screen or some other random position, the mesh of the gears is thrown out and no longer synchronized

[@paidoluca]

The Land Rover looks way easier to fix compared to this T5 - so many points of failure. The T5 is lucky to have you Edd.

[@Supercruiser66]

This show has the best parts of what made wheeler dealer good

[@eliotpalfreman1232]

The sprinter van. Does it have vacuum lines? My 123d needed vacuum actuation lines replaced for the same sort of issue issue.

[@ElliottVeares]

Who saw the message at 0:17. Oh no! Not this tired old T5 again! This ‘five minute job” has taken so many hours, in fact days, NOT to finish. This better be the episode where Edd finally gets it sorted or we’re going to side with John and blow it up ourselves!

[@Cefesky1]

He!..He!...I guess the video editor is already a bit fed up with the eccentricities of good old Edd.

[@TheStevenWhiting]

Trying to pause it in time ia a knightmare so will rip the video then do it in VLC :)

[@pywaketpilot]

@@TheStevenWhiting All you need to do is pause the video by hitting space and then use the "," and "." keys to advance one frame backwards and forwards to get the exact frame you want. No need to mess around with ripping the video.

[@justme5384]

The recirculation button 5:49 doesn't work if you have the blower turned toward the windshield. Or I think it was so. Sold my T5 a few years ago and bought a Crafter

[@haroldschuurmans7045]

Correct, its so in every vw

[@eddchina]

That’s right but the old controller wasn’t working in any position.

[@erik_dk842]

@@eddchina You should have clarified. OTOH, fifty commenters wouldn't have commented.

[@anthonycullen8596]

"I will not be beaten by this A/C" you've just gotta love the steely determination. Well done Edd, until next time 👍

[@jonathanellis6097]

German cars used to have the reputation for reliability. Now they seem to be no better than a Rover. Yet Rover went under and people still flock to German cars. All mechanical items eventually ware and break, but Volkswagen especially seem to have perfected the art of making things complicated, fragile and difficult to repair.

[@Spookieham]

BMW's now have plastic engines and Mercedes are junk plastic. Buy Japanese or Korean now if you want a reliable long-lived car.

[@anthonyspeters7203]

I've got 03 3ser E46 got 130,000 mils on it m54engine not using any oil,just in process of replacing original, calipers discs,pads,bmw were well built back then,but not so good these day! Bmw have increased the cost quite drastically of extended warrantys, reason being rhat quality not as good of parts made cheeper than used to be! Only problem being all the plastic parts on cooling system and engine that fail @high mileage that's another job I'm in process of replacing ,don't want to cook engine that be to exspensive, should then be good for another 100k not that l exspect to see that out @75yrs old,my a/c also caput condenser like rad corroded through, dryer in holes think rest of system compressor ok so got plenty to do in engine bay not much room. With straight 6 in there, 1 of bmw best engines built on tech from f1 with vanos!

[@stuartd9741]

Alfa Romeo still have people believe they still rust badly such is their once bad reputation that has stuck since the late 70s. Today Alfa's are just a good as other cars. ... Many years ago ~ 1980s a VW would be slightly better made than the competition. Like a Ford Cortina, Cavalier, the VW could then do more than 100k miles without falling apart. Today the competition is fierce, and all the major car manufacturers are fairly similar now so the perception of quality is Down to personal preferences. .. About nearly 30 yr ago worked at SEAT dealership (which used VW engines). Nearly all new models were quite sluggish performance wise as the engines were so tight. Soon as they reached 25/30,000m the engines loosened up and well quite well.

[@paulriggers1558]

those sprinter vans are bad for oil getting into the vacuum lines for the boost control solenoids etc, causing similar faults to what this chap was experiencing, take everything off + flush them all out with brake cleaner

[@eddchina]

Great tip, thanks.

[@rodgerdodger1625]

Adam Higson's problem is one of two things. The relay is a special relay that can tell the system if it's jammed, so It should not be replaced with any old relay. Also the system should cut out once charged, and the sphere is not under vacuum, its nominally at 200 bar full of brake fluid not air. It could also be a faulty pressure switch which is normally on the side of the pump. Be very careful as there are extreme pressures involved so don't just take it apart.

[@parrotraiser6541]

I had the A/C fail on a 15-year-old Cadillac, which would have cost more than the vehicle was worth to replace or repair. The solution; in spring, bypass the hot water flow around it. In winter, flow the water through the heater matrix and control the temperature by raising or lowering the electric windows.

[@eddchina]

Great solution! Better than scrapping the car!

[@stanbest3743]

I have often spent more on a car than it was worth, but it was less than the cost of replacing it.

[@parrotraiser6541]

@@eddchina I consider your approval of my kludge an honour!

[@matthewwiddows6319]

re the merc van issue, if quoting p codes then your using generic reader, get something better (oem tool etc). live data the required boost, actual boost, boost control duty cycle etc. will give an idea of how the boost control is working.

[@ashdetailing7642]

That sprinter problem probably hole or crack in intercooler or intercooler pipe

[@Mr_Reset]

This series is a good advert not to buy a T5 van 😂

[@RobertP7884]

Good news 👏, so what was the ref voltage out of new controller to compressor valve?

[@jayswin2]

Ive got a 2009 T5 with similar problems. My recirculation button light only comes on when the dial is not on the windscreen setting. I was told that its not supposed to light up on the windscreen setting...

[@cwoollett100]

On my 2010 T5.1 it’ll let me switch the re-circ on if it’s set to windscreen but if its already on and you then change to windscreen, it switches re-circ off automatically. On the wife’s 2011 Polo it won’t let you have re-circ on if blowing to windscreen but that’s not AC.

[@garycrofts1421]

It intended to use fresh, dry air on the windscreen, as opposed to potentially moist air from inside the cab.

[@erik_dk842]

@@garycrofts1421 Yes. You only get more mist when directing hot moist air from the cabin towards a cold windshield. Common sense, a rare commodity these days

[@francism1984]

Edd China. Patience of a Saint. Love the T5 work, don’t give up on her just yet!

[@philjames2542]

Only a couple of days for a 5 minute job 😆 That's so Vw 🤣

[@mtbjonny9502]

do you want to make a simple and reliable system .. extremely complicated and fragile ?? just ask Volkswagen!

[@WardoTheWeirdo23]

ED! My mercedes sprinter has just had an issue where the waffle style inlet manifold blew a small crack and when cold drives fine with small boost leak but would go in and out of limp mode when warm is a good place to look!

[@WardoTheWeirdo23]

Also I've been told is a very common sprinter fault

[@FirstNameLastName-tp5bu]

Probably in the comments somewhere but, at 6:00 when you're showing that recirculation doesn't work, you also have the vent selector in the windshield/screen defog mode. In defog mode, I believe recirc gets disabled. The idea being that you want fresh air in the cabin to 'flush' out humidity. I've never been in a T5 so just guessing but, it's not an uncommon configuration.

[@marc574]

I own a T5 and what you say is true.

[@erik_dk842]

Edd China is to busy figuring everything out by himself, so he hasn't got the time to just Google the correct answer, like I would do. If I didn't already know that recirculation gets turned off when you want to demist the windshield.

[@RoadhogRNA]

Thank You Edd!!! We are so glad your AC is fixed!!!!

[@michaelmay5453]

That was a good example showing how sometimes everything that can go wrong does go wrong. Thanks for taking us along on the quest for cold air. :)

[@Beer_Dad1975]

Also a good example of how trashy VAG products are.

[@michaelmay5453]

@@Beer_Dad1975 Not really but this is a fanboi bullshit comment and I'm sure you'll move on to explain how awesome Chevrolet or Dodge is so I'll leave you to it.

[@philtowle4683]

That Murphy Sod guy rears his ugly head again, I bet Edd dropped his toast butter side down when he had his breakfast as well.

[@schrodingerscat8621]

So I routinely disassemble and reassemble heater control units with cables due to airbag recall and related repairs. What I like to do is actually lubricate all of the heater control cams, I use a small syringe filled with just simple motor oil, hit all the moving areas before reassembly so everything functions and rotates more smoothly. It also prevents issues like cables developing a kink from occurring. Also it makes everything feel better than it did before the recall which makes the customer happy.

[@Craighaire]

I've had this with a couple of 2017 transits. It'll be the pedal box, the bushing on the clutch pedal deteriorates. To test it the pedal should move side to side. Pig of a job, best of luck.

[@WardoTheWeirdo23]

Yeah very common in transits

[@vaux_wolf4281]

Common on the mondeo as well, need to take the complete pedal box out, yep absolute nightmare of a job. Best of luck

[@histriamagna1014]

T4 were great but the T5 were awfull. We had both in our fleet where I work. We still have some T4 for dirty jobs but no T5 left. They broke down way faster.

[@joaopaulorolim]

Edd, when the air flow is directed to the windshield, the recirculation button is desabilitaded in the vw ac system. The problem must be only on the cable. Thank you for your videos, I'm a fan from Brasil!

[@schrodingerscat8621]

I was thinking the same thing. Traditionally recirculate does not function in the defrost option, only when you select center vent or floor will the recirculate feature illuminate

[@ArlenMoulton2]

RE the gentleman with the Mercedes Sprinter boost issue: I had a similar error on a 16 plate Ford Transit (Turbo underboost situation detected), fitting a new turbo didn't fix the problem. The fault turned out to be that the tiny port in the inlet manifold that leads to the manifold pressure sensor had blocked up with carbon due to the EGR valve, 2 hours to remove the inlet manifold and clean the carbon out fixed the problem! Good luck, I hope this helps someone out.

[@seanpjkennedy]

Remind me never to buy anything made by Volkswagen. It's a shame because they used to be amazing machines. Stick to Japanese stuff. A bit boring but normally they last.

[@Tomazack]

Everything falling apart, seems on par with what you would expect from a VW. Everything works according to the planned obsolescence, never meant to last long.

[@jeremyroberts2782]

Be nice if you could provide prices of all these bits and where you got them from if not the manufacturer, especially for parts like the control panel, as most manufacturers do not advertise prices or offer an online service which is a bit rubbish in my opinion, personally I feel they may sell more parts by doing so.

[@guspisano9777]

I just watched a master mechanic spend a series of videos doing a repair that I will never need to do and yet I feel total satisfaction at the result. Thank you Edd for sharing your experience and bringing us along

[@Yvolve]

The AC issue on the T5 and Defender 2, as well as the turbo issue on the Sprinter show one major issue with CANbus: limited information. It only tells you whether or not it is getting the signal it needs or expects, and shows an error of it doesn't, but it isn't always the part that has failed. If it is in a chain with other sensors or accessories, it can still show up as the fault as it is the end of the chain. A general tip for working on modern cars: never unplug or plug things back in with the ignition on and/or the engine running. It might send the VCM or ECU into a endless loop, because you gave it new information it wasn't expecting, or taking it away. Quite annoying if you put it in limp home mode or some other fault state. My guess is that Edd didn't buy a dud with his first replacement compressor, the faulty controller fried it as it showed as an issue with the compressor because it didn't do what it was supposed to. The real issue was too much voltage, which showed as a different issue. The 2,3 Ohm resistance on the AC controller wiring isn't supposed to be that high. Could've been a connection issue with the multimeter, or all the connections in the test wire, but it should read close to 0, especially as those wires send very specific messages by regulating voltage. Usually from 0,5 to 4,5V, so any resistance will mess with that message. The Defender still shows the wrong temperature on the dash, as it probably hasn't been reset, so the computer remains in a loop until it has. The Sprinter is a lot more complex, given it's a turbo issue so you need it running ideally. If possible, it would be best to run it on a dyno with live data from an OEM machine, to recreate the issue. Since so much has been replaced already, but the same fault keeps returning, it could be an issue with the data the boost control uses to regulate pressure. Not sure if they do it this way, but it could be taking the MAP data, so if that sensor was wrong or faulty, it won't set the right boost pressure and it won't get the expected data from that sensor. It is all too common that it becomes an endless cycle of replacing parts with no result, as the owner fears, so having a Mercedes specialist go over the CANbus system and make sure the fault isn't caused in some other part of the system. I've worked on modern cars and bikes, all relying on CANbus, and have seen many strange issues that ended up coming from somewhere completely different. The CANbus system is so sensitive to changes in voltage, that electrical noise from a bad sensor or accessory can confuse a sensor somewhere else. Cutting and soldering the CANbus wiring can ruin it, if the joint wasn't perfect and slightly increased the resistance.

[@thomaslemay8817]

@Yvolve, so true, I found it necessary to own three different Scanners to be able to get at the needed information. On one occasion I was asked to determine why a controller failed repeatedly. I found it necessary to remove the entire climate control unit ( and the dashboard) completely disassembled it and remove one rat tail comb , several hair barrett, a toy car among other odd items. The top of the dash is not the place to store small objects . This variety of things had entered through the ductwork, I suspect a child might have had a hand in the process.

[@Yvolve]

@@thomaslemay8817 Also very true! I love watching channels like Just Rolled In, with the craziest things happening to cars. The state some of these cars are in is insane and they still drive them. My favourite is a car going in several times for a rattling noise, turned out to be a production line worker who threw a hand of nuts in the rear quarter panel as a joke. Bill ended up being like 10 grand of pointless work done, so they tracked down who worked on the car and fired him. I've seen some bad factory work as well. Bad electrics, installation and sloppy work. Such a pain to PDI those vehicles and having to fix it.

[@garycrofts1421]

The T5 is not canbus.

[@Yvolve]

@@garycrofts1421 OBD2 has the same issues, but worse as you get even less info.

[@martinnovev2794]

Edd, what about the space apes om your shirt? And the Russian cosmonauts? Thanks for the video, again.

[@ashleykordowski1909]

On my T5 with Ac the recirc button will not work when vents are directed too the windscreen. Move the direction to anywhere else and you may find the recirc button works.

[@dukemasters6829]

After years of suspicion I’ve come to the conclusion vw and other German car manufactures that there components and build quality is no better tha your crusty Range Rover

[@iestynhedd9544]

Mate it's worth putting the work in to ! I'v got a t5 174, that 2.5 is just so good!!!! , you won't get a new van with a five banger ✌️ Also my Aircon and controller is not working so I'm going to use this as a guide 👍

[@andrewbaker9311]

With the sprinter boost problem check the T peace on the vacuum/ servo to the vacuum booster the T peace blocks up and gives u problem with boost codes

[@Honky_Konky_Phooey]

On the sprinters The transducers on the vacuum circuit fail , I’ve changed 2 recently the one that is connected to the small turbo actuator, it was bleeding off the vacuum. And yesterday the small turbo blade was found to be stuck on another 👍🇬🇧, cracking as always guys ….

[@eddchina]

Sounds like it’s a common problem, hope they are easier to fix than on my Range Rovers!

[@Honky_Konky_Phooey]

@@eddchina literally 5 minutes 👍

[@chrisrobson8540]

those trim tools are dirt cheap if you know what to search for................guitar picks 🤣🤣🤣

[@Franksey180]

Regarding the boost pressure issue, I can only speak from a VW Group point of view, but it's possible to use diagnostics to log the "Specified Boost" and log the "Actual Boost" into a file that can then be viewed or exported into MS Excel to compare the columns and assess if it's got something like sticky turbo vains and over boosting.

[@eddchina]

That would be really handy, I suspect Mercedes’ diagnostics would do the same…

[@andrewfrancis1975]

Edd get the gentleman with the turbo problem to check the actuater on the turbo as I had this problem with our Skoda Octavia

[@dukeboy1098]

Hi Andrew. Yes both actuators have been replaced 😁👍

[@colmad64]

The kinking of the cambers is caused by turning the dial past the 12 O’clock position. It’s a very common problem on a T5, I’ve just swapped out all of my cables

[@jackiemay9471]

need to go to live data load the pids you need for faster refresh and get someone to drive and compare actual and specified some machines will record the drive to be reviewed after event also check freeze frame and be careful of aftermarket parts

[@Engineerd3d]

Starting today I will no longer have nightmares of working on a Chevy Astro. This van is the new nightmare king. Good lord, talk about dental surgery through the rectum.

[@leonardnose5695]

Ed how was it being the mechanic on top gear with the original trio?

[@eddchina]

Only got to do the James Bond car on a budget episode in the first series of the then new format but it was a great laugh (with some long nights beforehand)!

[@barryslattery563]

It keeps buffering I don’t know why my internet is working with everything else on my phone

[@theshadowman1398]

At least Volkswagen wasn’t awful enough and designed the dashboard to be taken apart in parts instead of removing the whole thing to get anywhere.

[@AdamsWorlds]

I had the same issue with boost sensor on my Kia. Turned out the car had both a MAP and a MAF sensor. Both showed reading during live data readout. However it turned out the MAP sensor was reading incorrect pressure at startup and was chucking all the other stuff out of whack. Replaced the MAP for a known working one from mates car and the fault went away and never came back. Just something to try :)

[@dougwardle2175]

Think I’d have set fire to that van by now…….to paraphrase AUDI vorsprung durch knackered tecnik😂😂

[@grahambrown3718]

Which wiring diagrams do you use? They look clear, concise and above all accurate 😁

[@eddchina]

Autodata provided the wiring diagrams, they are super useful, particularly because there are so many variations depending on Year and model etc

[@brianpoppe1112]

in regards to the sprinter boost deviation. ive had a couple in at work recently that have had a snapped inlet manifold bolt causing a boost leak. could be worth checking

[@eddchina]

Great tip, thanks.

[@Sean-parker]

Top work, I would’ve applied a bit of silicone grease in those cam channels, the bottom one may of been trouble getting to though

[@pglick123]

I'm surprised VW hasn't paid you to not "air" these videos.

[@constantinoszenonos1794]

P.O If it takes 15 revisions for a car company to make one of the most common car parts work properly i think this company should call it quits. Same thing with clutch pedals!!!

[@matthewshambler2644]

Regarding the Sprinter van, much like Edd and Paul mentioned, try and get it on a dyno or open road and log the live data (usually a graph) with a "decent" scan tool- Mercedes Star would be best, but Autel or Launch should have a live value option. That should help point you in the right direction.. even dodgy wiring can cause intermittent issues, sensor works but wiring shorts out or loses signal at times (such as hard acceleration under boost). Weather or not it's part of it I don't know but Mercs have a SAM (signal acquisition module) that can cause all sorts of issues.. ask me how I know;-) Good luck!

[@dukeboy1098]

Hi Matthew. Thanks I did a live test on open road with live data running. After flogging it , it never faulted. Got near home…. It faulted. It never seems to do it at a mechanics 🙄🤬👍

[@paulgdunsford7469]

Bullshit no way was my reaction when I read the title of this video lol 😂

[@miyazagi]

hello hola 👋

[@robincooney1263]

Brilliant episode. I happen to have a T5 with - yes, you guessed it - an HVAC position switch that doesn't work properly, so this has given me all the detailed info (not in the manual) on how to get it to bits and fix it. Thank you lots. I also have a suggestion for the turbo pressure/limp home mode problem. I've fixed this issue on my T5 - low pressure due to the variable turbo vanes getting gunked up over time and sometimes not moving properly. Either: 1) new/reconditioned turbo (£££ eek) 2) take turbo to bits and clean or 3) spray some fancy gunk into the turbo inlet and rev the engine. Obviously I've done 3) and it has worked well. Search for "Turbo cleaner kit". I found the sprayer device you get with these kits to be useless, I ended up using a garden pressure sprayer - far better.

[@fazzersfriends1771]

Hi Robin, I've watched the video start to finish and couldn't see the information for the switch assembley and new cable, I don't suppose you could steer me in the right direction could you? This fix is exactly what has happened to mine!!

[@richardbrown4294]

I wonder what the bill would be if it went a VW garage.

[@histriamagna1014]

500 to 700 bucks easily.

[@twocvbloke]

So theoretically speaking, all of the under-bonnet work, aside from the seized & burnt out fan, could have been avoided cos of a crap part in the dash? Blimey, junk electronics just get everywhere these days, can't escape them (speaking as someone who fixes crap electronics a lot cos they just don't work even out of the box!)... :S

[@jamiewalton23]

Cheers guys any chance of getting an old VW bus in the programme

[@eddchina]

Absolutely! Need some air-cooled Vdub-ness in here and a Splitty would be great, tempted to electrify one if that’s OK?

[@jamiewalton23]

That’s fabulous Edd, as electric conversation is at the top of wish list. Even hydrogen???. love the show buddy

[@Peter_Riis_DK]

How to fix an AC: Replace bits until it works again. 😉

[@sarcasticat]

Air re-circulation button on VW doesn't work when selector set to "window" .

[@sarcasticat]

And when you tested with new one, ofc it wasn't in "window" position.

[@eddchina]

That is true but the old controller’s recirculate button didn’t work in any position (apologies for not showing that)

[@jayswin2]

I was going to say the same thing. My aircon doesnt work and the recirc button doesnt work in the window position. One other thing, my button for switching between outlets, does not rotate 360 degrees. It starts with the window at the top (12 oclock) then rotates 270 degrees anticlockwise. I was told they arent supposed to rotate 360 degrees, as thats what damages the cables. The revised model may be different though....

[@paulusthegrey]

There is no such thing as a five minute job on any vehicle.

[@fooledman]

Had an '87 Olds for 24 years and at the end it needed a lot of work on the brakes and suspension. The engine went out after all the repairs were made. Was given an '02 Volvo and you'd never guess; it needs the same work but not as much. Had the engine tested and it passed. That was what I should've done with the Olds. Would've saved a lot.

[@Facu1ty1855]

Hallelujah edd, well done finally lol. 🍿🍿🍿👏🏻👌🏻

[@stewartmactaggart4271]

many thanks this was a great help much appreicated

[@elizabethdavies5186]

Bit of an odd one, I have an 09 vw Passat estate diesel, the coolant temp gauge goes up and down instead of getting to 90degrees C and staying there. She’ll warm up when stopped and idling, running slowly around town but once I gain any sort of speed and can maintain it, the temp will decrease back to stone cold and the engine note will change respectively (I have an after market exhaust which makes the sound change noticeable) she doesn’t overheat nor do I smell anything funky going on, would you or anyone else have a clue what’s going on as this is something I’ve had in ALL to a (certain extent) PD block Diesel engines I’ve owned ??

[@paulriggers1558]

your thermostat is stuck open

[@cwoollett100]

Had this on a Toyota Land Cruiser once, thermostat had failed open

[@chrisgray305]

thermostat is stuck open. swap that out jobs a good un had that on a few cars

[@elizabethdavies5186]

Awww sweet thanks guys, I can’t believe I didn’t think of that myself has had me baffled for a while

[@chrisross-smith4358]

Hi Ed great videos, just a thought, if you have a perfectly running van you'd have less video content to show. Keep up the good work...👍

[@matthewwiddows6319]

re the brake issue on rover, get yourself a mityvac etc, try and draw a vacuum. clamp hose to servo and see if pump turns off.

[@peterstott6874]

The 3.9 Range rover with a Wabco system is normally a pressure system not vacuum....and the round spherical unit is a pressure reservoir and should be replaced...

[@fd4639]

Great job Ed!! I presume that the EV Emporium shop truck should be an EV…. 😁 Looking forward to a conversion!!! But that’s a job for another day.

[@eddchina]

Absolutely, you spotted the painful irony - when I was working on the world’s first all electric ice cream van there were no other electric vans available except for the commercial version of the Leaf. It really should be electric by now but I am quite liking the ID.Buzz and the Morris JE so we’ll have to see…

[@stevejacob7158]

Must admit Edd, admire your patience and tenacity in seeing that job through to a conclusion. thoroughly enjoy watching your channel.

[@司令官-r9q]

エド、マイクは元気？😆

[@greghalliday4226]

I always get a laugh when I see people run another wire to test continuity. If it is multi-core, just short the wires at the far end to each other, if it is a single wire and you are working on something that has an earthen chassis, like a car, short it to earth.

[@garycrofts1421]

I don't understand this at all.

[@greghalliday4226]

@@garycrofts1421 when you have multi-core wire, you already have multiple wires. Short them together and you can test between each. If none work they are all broken, very rare, often on one will have lost continuity. With earthing the wire, if both ends are disconnected, there is no path through earth. If you short one end to earth, then test from the other end to earth, then there should be continuity. It's a good idea to disconnect both ends and test to earth to make sure there isn't a short first, then short one end to earth and test to earth at the other end.

[@manuelafelix969]

😍😍😍😎

[@geoffreyfoulkes9562]

We have the squeaky clutch on the Honda

[@gianicasarini2060]

Hello super gas Glasgow Ecosse

[@U_ever]

Thanks ever so much Edd for clearly demonstrating over and over why NOT to by a VW product. Well done indeed.

[@NomisReldas]

Ooooh, a bit harsh love

[@Mrflash222006]

MB sprinter - if it uses a VNT turbo the vanes are getting stuck

[@eugenecussen3735]

The more a part moves ...the more it will fail

[@EmreBuzkan001]

Does a sports car have air conditioning?

[@garycrofts1421]

I always fast forward though the Ask Edd bits.... just saying.

[@FMuscleZ28]

yes.

[@staalefo]

For the Sprinter: I had a leakage on my high pressure side just before the MAF and got the same error. Use light paper and someone to apply high rpm to see if you have a leak.

I think your show could add/we could benefit at the total costs of parts, labour and a services. To my calculations it was well over 600eur 2x filling 160eur, 1xcompressor ~260eur, 1x Radiator 80eur Radiator fluid ~60eur 1xCable, AC brain, fuse, tube Labour ? And it is just for one zone control.

[@fabioisgro]

My 2011 Seat Leon (1P1) got the same issue too in mid summer 2018 ... the compressor was fine ... gas fine ... everything fine ... just the control module doesn't send the right PWM signal to the pressure switch ( which was fine ...) ...I've fixed the problem just on summer 2019 after a 800Km trip for 180Euro ...

[@elazgdoguanadolufordservis9561]

You professional man I every time you follow

[@timothyduggan2263]

It's great viewing to see the fault finding process and we'll done for finally solving the numerous issues. Personally I'd probably just have opened the window though!

[@beyre219]

Did my apprenticeship with Gilder Van Centre Sheffield ( VWLCV ) ( started in 2005 ) I remember replacing the blue control cable on many T5’s 😞 along with replacing the gates coupling for the A/C pump and Alternator 😞 Along with many other not nice jobs But on the whole a great van and fantastic apprenticeship 👍

[@Formulabruce]

The "Far-Fig Newton" strikes again! Good job climbing this mountain!

[@lightninglogic6180]

That green cable should be pull only. Broken spring in the bowels?

[@eddchina]

Could be…

[@Toot-The-Shoot]

Regarding the question from Crossfirelance, I had a very similar problem with a Seat Alhambra many years ago. All fine except when under significant load when it would drop into limp home mode. Turn it of and on again, problem solved. Turned out to be a braided vacuum hose at the point of connection to the ECU, that had had the braiding rubbed off on one side by the sound insulation on the bulkhead. Hence the hose was collapsing under high load. Easiest fix I’ve ever seen. It took the deisel specialist I took it to about half an hour to diagnose the problem. They cut 1” off the end of the hose and the problem never reoccurred in the subsequent 15 years that I owned the vehicle.

[@rampanttwattery4844]

Trigger’s broom springs to mind…

[@cannygrowabeard]

"fifteenth revision" amused me

[@garymallard4699]

Your Problem is...A Nut loose between the Seat and HVAC Controls....I noticed that on Part 1..sorry i forgot to Comment then...hope that Helps? 😉

[@carlosalbertoguzman]

Los mecanismos construidos con plástico siempre se rompen!, después hay que gastar mucho dinero para remplazarlos por completo. OJO que no se rompen "de casualidad", está perfectamente estudiado para que se rompan, se llama "Obsolescencia Programada", una mala costumbre de los fabricantes 😡😳🤔

[@leewot]

Re the creaking clutch pedal , I’ve heard creaking noises when the pedal assembly ’stand off’ has become loosened from the bulkhead ( in that case it was a cracked spot weld )

[@Spookieham]

You have to wonder why anyone would touch a VW product now. German cars were once a byword for quality engineering : now it's huge repair bills with a short lifespan.

[@coffeeguy6673]

Imagine the bill you'd have got from a VW dealer for the aircon repair !!

[@FMuscleZ28]

A huge bill and still not fixed.