VZ Commodore Multiple Fault Codes MiracleMAX

[@MiracleMAX]

Hey Guys,This is the first of my automotive repairs. Many people think that a scan tool will repair your vehicle, but rather it is a powerful diagnostic tool. Here you can see that by using the proper tool, understanding the system and knowing how to read a wiring diagram will lead to a successful outcome.Enjoy!

[@MiracleMAX]

+MiracleMAX I've had it drawn to my attention (via a different media, because KZbin makes it so hard to comment from a mobile device - just sayin') that I should have made comment that all fault codes should be noted before erasing. This is a crucial part of the diagnostic process. Make sure that you have a way of referring back to the original fault codes (I usually just take a photo of the scan tool screen). This way you can see if they come up again or if they were just a glitch in the Matrix!

[@cobsterboy]

Nice video. You did a good job of showing your process. Really shouldn't be testing powers and grounds on an unloaded circuit though. I would have left it plugged in and back probed. I don't like to disturb a connector on a problematic circuits before performing any circuit checks as it may accidentally fix the fault. Good work!

[@MiracleMAX]

Hey Rod, Yes you are correct. Any circuit is best tested when loaded. In this case, it was done due to access issues (mainly for filming reasons). Thanks for your comments. I'm always happy to have a TAT adviser give some suggestions. Feel free to check out my other videos.

[@musicpipe]

Excellent stuff just one thing ... no music is always better than loud music, the rain was an improvement ;- )

[@DARANGULAFILM]

Thank you for you contribution to the helpful knowledge. On the topic of a faulty key, has anyone checked the dud key for resistance between the key blade and the small conductor which feeds out from inside the black key body. It seems that the key blade itself may serve as a ground plane for the little transmitter in the key body. The aerial as such is a little pin inside the black body which shows as a round chrome protrusion near the key blade. The small conductor which connects to the key blade is hidden inside as space in which the key blade fits and only seen when the key blade is removed by unfastening two screws then pulling the blade out. You need to be careful shoving the key blade back in place because the conductor can be folded back and damaged. It has a hole through it for a screw and is held firm against the key blade by one of the two screws which are threaded into the key blade and its pressure on the black key body. I have a "rescued" VZ which was sold as a "no go". There were two dislocated glasses, one each in a front and rear door and a broken front doorhandle. This got me to thinking "could the answer be so simple as in a flat key battery?" Broken window winders ( electric ) and a broken doorhandle hinted the somebody got locked out, forced entry and attempted to start the car with the key alone. I was about to part the sealed black key body to check and change the battery when I noticed the key blade was very rusty in patches. The screws were rusted into their threads as well as having been loctited and took a lot of patient shifting. I finally bit the bullet and bought a scan tool off the eBay. On reflection I should have bought one when I was in a clash of wills with a VN Commodore years ago. As things would happen it healed itself after being parked in the weather for two years. Maybe scan tools were not as inexpensive then but for whatever reason I was pigheaded about it. The scan tool pointed me straight to the thottlebody issue this time round. So much time saved versus the old BGOBG method. I cleaned the corrosion off the key blade and the small conductor, reassembled the key, took it outside and pressed the button and "unlock", pressed it again and "lock", pressed "unlock" again, put the key in the ignition and it started. The engine ran very rough. A lot of investigation seems to have happened before I bought it. With missing things put back, a sticking throttle body tidied up and it runs sweet enough. It is reporting a fault with the oil pressure sensor being "out of range", so thanks to your trouble shooting video, I will investigate those possibilities as well as doing an oil and filter change. Perhaps you might confirm for me if "out of range" is meant to suggest that the oil pressure itself outside of permitted ranges or that the sensor itself is faulted internally or by bad joints as you have discovered? There may be an issue with coolant as it has the green stuff, not factory red. There are no apparent coolant leaks, no apparent high pressure gas leaks into the coolant and the temps are in the low to normal range. That of course all may change when it has some serious work to do. I have been rather cynical about the complex tech of modern cars. The build quality of a lot of the bits and pieces is remarkable compared to some of the stuff found on late sixties/early seventies cars. I still prefer simplicity but one has to adapt or be left behind.

[@MiracleMAX]

Hey DARANGULAFILM, Thanks for your comments. I have just uploaded a commodore with slip ring issues (as well as other faults) kzbin.info/www/bejne/jmPQioFmhsuXpbs These keys use a passive transponder which is used to deactivate the immobiliser. Note the card directing you to a good explanation of how a transponder works. The 'oil pressure out of range' could mean the oil pressure is actually low or that the ECU is receiving a signal from the sensor that is out of parameters. The only true way to determine if you have low oil pressure is to use an oil pressure master gauge to compare. Don't just rely on the colour of coolant as what is needed for your vehicle. Look on sites such as www.datateck.com.au/Lube/castr_au/ (if you are in Australia) for manufacture approved fluids. Cheers MiracleMAX

[@MiracleMAX]

@@bladerunner7196 Hey John, welcome to the channel! I guess like the rest of us, you are concerned by the environmental restrictions imposed on the automotive industry. But at this point, I must make my stand clear - any change from what is legally allowable is not accepted by myself and other technicians. I totally agree that we are put in a difficult position. We want to do the right thing by the customer, but at the end of the day, it is their vehicle and their responsibility to have it legal. The EPA will come after you, not the customer. Sorry for being blunt, but we are almost in an impossible position with emission controls nowadays. Gone are the days when you could add a ball bearing in a vacuum hose to restrict the operation of emission controls. We have to do things within the acceptable limits. I do not recommend such things as EGR deletes or removal of DPFs. I totally agree with your stance on decreased service intervals. Some manufactures, such as Mercedes, recommend 30,000 km service intervals! What are they thinking??? Using poor quality fuel, which is a real problem here in Australia, is one of the main reasons we see so much carbon build up in CRDs. Using low ash engine oils are a must if we are servicing diesel engines with DPFs. Also, dilution of the oil could also be as a result of leaky injectors. A faulty or dirty PCV valve can also add to the problem. Keeping the inlet system clean is vital for the proper operation of the engine. There are several lines of thought on how to do that. Some suggest cleaners, others say the only way is to remove the inlet system and ultrasonically clean it. I personally believe that both methods can be used. Firstly, removing and cleaning ultrasonically should be done to get the inlet system in good condition. After all, if you use cleaners when the inlet is full of carbon, where does all that carbon go - through the engine, creating damage as it goes. After the system is up to scratch, then use cleaners on a regular basis as part of a maintenance program. Keep an eye on fault codes, kilometres since a passive regeneration has taken place as well as looking at the percentage blocked according to the differential pressure sensor. I suggest to further your knowledge on the subject, become a member of TAT (The Automotive Technician) www.tat.net.au/, Diesel Help Australia (Clinton Brett) www.dieselhelp.com.au/ or Valhalla Industries valhallaindustries.com.au/, all of which run excellent training workshops that will help you to maintain your customers' vehicles to the best possible standard within our allowable limits. Here are a few other videos that might interest you on the subject. I have others that will be released in the near future as well. kzbin.info/www/bejne/eHjNopyHq9yJrc0 kzbin.info/www/bejne/mZ_GpZqijtiknKM&t kzbin.info/www/bejne/qonchoqgn610raM kzbin.info/www/bejne/m33beXmQiNB7d9E I hope you understand my reasoning on the subject, but I always happy to help out wherever I can. Cheers MiracleMAX

[@MiracleMAX]

You are welcome. Keep in mind, all these changes we see are to reduce emissions. There are many systems in place to do that and although Australia is lagging slightly behind the Euro emission standards, every few years, the standards become more and more stringent. I hope that you can find further training helpful and successful :)

[@MiracleMAX]

I have tried to reply to WILLIAM THUNDER STRUCK P (THUNDER), but can't for some reason. He has asked: HI, where do you get your diagrams from ?? regards, Bill Hey Bill, I use Repco Navigator Pro which uses a basic form of Autodata. These are broken down into sections for ease of use. I find the best method for diagnosis is to print them out in A3 size (if possible) and then use highlighters to focus on the positive, earth and signal wires if searching for sensor faults. The only other option is to search the net using words like wiring diagram, schematic or something similar (with the vehicle name as well) I hope that helps. Cheers MiracleMAX

[@howtopete33]

So how did you fix the oil fault code?

[@MiracleMAX]

I mentioned in the video that it had an earth fault. kzbin.info/www/bejne/nGmYhplshZWga5Y

[@normanmendonca2834]

Mate great informative show you put out. I have a vy Commodore sv6, 2003. What scanner will work on Holden as I have connection issues when I did try a simple odb2 mobile app.

[@MiracleMAX]

Hey Norman, What scanner are your using at the moment? Apart from the GScan, I have a Launch CReader VI that seems to work on the basic stuff. Is your App up-to-date? Have a look on the app site and see if your VY is covered. MiracleMAX

[@deanharrison1685]

whats the best allrounder diagnostic tool to use for fault finding?

[@MiracleMAX]

Hey Dean, Sorry, there is no correct answer for that question! Depends what the faults are, an LED test light might be sufficient, a multimeter is crucial to use regularly, scan tool for code reading, clearing, freeze frame analysis, live data readings (I personally use a GScan), right through to an oscilloscope for extreme detailed diagnosis (I personally use a Picoscope). Oscilloscopes are becoming a more common sight in quality workshops and have many capabilities. However, you don't need to spend thousands for a high end oscilloscope if you are a hobbyist. You can pick up semi-reasonable ones for a reasonable price. If you are into electronics at all, you can buy DIY kits. I have just bought one and will be doing a future build and review on that. Probably a little long winded and not what you were after, but as I said, horses for courses - the correct diagnostic tool to be used depends on the fault, repair and diagnostic path.

[@micthegreasemonkey2918]

hi max,what state do u opperate in? im in melb & am looking 4 a good tech that knows how to diagnose.

[@MiracleMAX]

Hey murder forte, Would love to help out, but think the travelling expenses for a trip from NSW to VIC might be a bit over the top! :) Hope you can find a good tech somewhere a bit closer. I hope these videos help. Do you have any particular problem at the moment?

[@MalahhSaiyanGod]

Hey Mate, I have a 2004 vz with the Alloytec 190 in it and i recently had the timing chains replaced at 214xxx, However since that being done, the “Check Powertrain” has now appeared on the dash and the fuel guage seems to fluctuating. Also sometimes when i accelerate, it will sound really doughy and barely go anywhere was just wondering if could point me in some sort of direction as i have had multiple mechanics scratch there head over it!

[@MiracleMAX]

Hey Malahh, Have fault codes been checked - if so, what are they? Were the chains replaced by a qualified technician? Are the chains timed correctly? Has a camshaft/crankshaft correlation been carried out? Are the cam sensors connected correctly? Do they have good terminal retention? Has the oil been replaced on a regular basis? The cam actuators can stick, causing a lack of performance and bringing the check engine light on. The most important thing to find out is - What are the fault codes listed and are they current or history codes. I hope that helps give you a direction to start with. MiracleMAX

[@markcowell8422]

Like Your Work. Hi having some trouble with an array of codes on my wife's VE V6 2007. I did notice a low voltage when charging so I put in a new Alternator. Although the charging voltage is now OK, a lot of the codes have come back. I,m thinking it may be the ECM. I am using a Bluetooth OBDII and TorquePro. Should I be thinking of getting a better scan tool...

[@MiracleMAX]

Hey Mark, I know this might seem a little late, but your comment has just come up on this video. I hope that you were able to find the fault. I see that you replaced the alternator, but what damage had been done to the battery as well? These are Pulse Width Modulation controlled and are a complex system if you have not had experience with them before. One problem we are having now is that even when replacing batteries, we have to let the PCM know via a scan tool that the replacement has taken place. I suggest that you might need a better scan tool if you want to work on your vehicle on a regular basis. You would need a bi-directional scan tool that allows you to activate certain features and carry out special functions. Thanks for your comments - sorry I missed it for so long :( MiracleMAX

[@gordoncassin2605]

Hi MM, I have a 2007 VZ SV6 Commodore ute, it has been through a few dealer workshops and none seem trained enough to solve the problems with it, Ive had the power packs replaced oil switch replaced and a few other expensive replacements but to no avail. The Problem: check power trans lights comes on when starting and stays on for a few days, than it will not come on when starting up, on many occasion the Vehical will fail to start on first turn of key 2nd turn fires up and runs ok, we have recently noticed that its over fuelling and temp gauge shows well below running temp when Power trans light on. this Vehical has been a electrical night mare since new purchase, the dealerships have no idea but want to milk the hell out of us with suggesting replace this replace that.... can you make some suggestions... Many Thanks..regards G

[@MiracleMAX]

Hey Gordon Cassin, Sorry you are having trouble with your VZ. Also sorry that the dealer has felt it necessary to load up the 'Parts Cannon' and fire it at your vehicle. Diagnosing is the only correct way to ensure you are not just adding parts in the hope that you will eventually fix the fault. Can I have some more information on your fault, please? You have stated that the Power Trans light comes on. Do you mean the Powertrain light? It usually looks like a little engine. Do you happen to know if the dealer has scanned all systems and what were the codes? Have all powers and grounds been tested using a voltage drop method? When your vehicle is playing up and doesn't start first time with the key, just hold the key in the start position for about 10-20 seconds. Does it start when you do this? How do you know it is over fuelling when the temp gauge is reading below the correct level? Do you have a scan tool? Is the temperature sensor reading accurately? Are the O2 sensors reading correctly, especially when the engine light is on? Are you aware that you can access some information via the dash display? Here is a link that might be helpful to you. You might even be able to access some fault codes in this area. queue.acm.org/blogposting.cfm?id=69306 When it is playing up, compare the temperature noted on the display to the temperature gauge. Is the vehicle getting to operating temperature? Has the cooling system, including fans been checked? Sorry for the 40 questions, but the only way to diagnose a vehicle correctly is to get all the facts in front of you before you make a diagnostic path to follow. Hope you find the fault and are able to repair it. Cheers :)

[@gordoncassin2605]

Apologies; yes Check Powertrain light comes on. the dealer told me they had scanned for codes etc and found a few hence the replacement of oil switch. I know its over feeling because you can smell heavy fuel smell from exhaust and fuel consumption is elevated over its usual consumption for the week even tho mileage is no different than from previous week or literate on refuelling. No I do not have a scan tool. I would suggest that temp gauge is reading ok but sender is a fault. o2 sensors reading unknown. Thank You for the link. The temp gauge is below (1 bar up from cold) its normal operating temp even after travelling 20 kilometres when its playing up, when its NOT playing up the temp gauge shows 1/4 up the temp gauge and fuel consumption seems to be normal. The radiator was replaced approx 2 years ago after a tyre shop cracked the bottom tank while trying to jack the car up to change front tyres, the fault was there before this happening. From what ive seen so far the dealers have 1 technician and 20 apprentices and that technician doesn't seem trained to use the right dynastic tools so just throw parts at at my expense until the situation goes away. I have found a few earth problems while replacing headband tail lights etc the vehicle is a lemon poorly constructed and finished off its type junk. Thank you for having a go.. Very much appreciated for your reply.

[@MiracleMAX]

Hey Gordon Cassin, Thanks for the extra information. As you can appreciate, it is very difficult to help with the diagnosis without fault codes. Were there any listed on the instrument cluster using the supplied link? With regard to the temp gauge, yes you might have a faulty sender. The pin number on the PCM is A23 and has a shared earth at pin A7. This should have a variable voltage with engine temperature. If the sender is faulty, this can trick the PCM into thinking that it is constantly cold, therefore adding extra fuel and making it run rich. Before condemning the sender, testing of the wiring should be done first. Please note: this is just a suggestion and by no means a guarantee of a successful repair. Without testing the vehicle myself, these are merely suggestions. I hope you figure out the problem with the beast!

[@gordoncassin2605]

Thanks again MM, I have not had a chance to look at your link lately, however im about to book it into a local mechanical service who has a excellent reputation on diagnostics apparently in the coming 2 weeks... A man of your experience I kind of hoped you may have come across a similar situation, these modern cars are beyond me now days and finding good mechanics here in Western Australia seems near on impossible, hence I'm also about to step back in time and rehash my 92 HZJ75 diesel cruiser.. I know its primitive but I know their reliable monsters.... Thanks again for your valued input.

[@MiracleMAX]

Hey Gordon Cassin, You are welcome! I hope you find the fault & get it sorted. I constantly hear that people are struggling to find qualified technicians that are willing and trained diagnosticians, not parts replacement mechanics. Can you do me a favour and post the results when you get the VZ fixed to help others with similar problems. Ah, the good old faithful Toyota Cruiser! A mighty vehicle indeed! :) Cheers MiracleMAX

[@dragan3290]

I would love to know how to use a scope? On Automotive! I have a few but I use for electronics testing. A bit afraid to hook up without being shown. Cheers

[@MiracleMAX]

Hey Dragan, Perhaps I should make that a series of videos in the future. In the meantime, I suggest you look at the Pico site, which gives you some great guided tests. www.picoauto.com/library/automotive-guided-tests You can also download the software and use the simulation mode to see how it works. There are also heaps of videos on KZbin, including Pico's own channel. kzbin.info Darren also has a great channel with lots of videos dealing on oscilloscopes. kzbin.info MiracleMAX

[@dragan3290]

@@MiracleMAX thanks for the reply! Highly appreciated 🙂👍👍👍

[@MiracleMAX]

@@dragan3290 You are welcome!

[@korruptusextremis]

Hi after 3 months away on holiday my 2005 vz v6 lumina won’t start, the battery was dead and the doors wouldn’t open with the key so I opened the door since my window was a bit open and after charging the battery and trying to start the car the alarm went off, stopped the alarm and tried starting the car; engine turns but no fire, I can’t hear the fuel pump prime.. can it be the fob key being out of battery won’t start he car? I have an auto trans code on my dashboard too. Please help.

[@MiracleMAX]

Max Ortiz Bit of a spoiler after your holiday! :( If you don't hear the fuel pump priming, firstly I suggest you check all fuses and fusible links. Have you just charged the original battery or have you replaced it? Unless the PCM sees a good clean 12 volts, regardless of how well it cranks, it will not start. Try a new battery. If you already have installed a new battery, disconnect and let it sit for 20 minutes or so and reconnect. Does it have spark? Is there pulsing at the injectors? Do you have access to a scan tool? Does the trans code on the dash have a fault code attached to it? Have you tried a different set of keys? These play up all the time with the key slip ring. The immobiliser will stop the vehicle from operating. I hope a few of these suggestions will help get you up and running :)

[@lokomo6182]

Hi max..i have problem with my 2005 lumina Ls..when i use it for a minutes thier is no issue but more than an hour it appeard check power train.. all gauges were drop and then go back to normal but 1 gauge is not working, the speed gauge..,rev. is high seem like the car has no power to accelerate and its not shifting.. my mechanic scan it by obd2 and code fault is p0602..my mechanic check the wiring and thier is no lose or cut connection also he clean the speed sensor and automatic sensor..he clear the code and become fine..after a week it came back with the same issue..hope you can help us with this issue..thanks

[@MiracleMAX]

Hey Loko mo, The fault code you are referring to is: P0602 Control Module Programming Error Is this still the original PCM? Has any work been done recently? Have all powers and grounds to the PCM been voltage drop tested? Make sure that all grounds are in good condition. Check all connections and terminal retention (how tight the terminals are) at the PCM. Wiggle the wires at the PCM and see if the conditions change. Is the CAN system operating correctly? Has this been tested? The lack of power may indicate that the vehicle is in 'Limp Home' mode while it has this fault and clears when the conditions change. It could also be an internal PCM fault. If the PCM detects inconsistencies within the EEPROM or if it fails to recognize the programming of the EEPROM, it may need 'reflashing', which will need to be done by the dealer or by a technician that has a J2534 pass-through device. Let me know how you go :) MiracleMAX

[@steveelliott241]

got a VZ V6 ute come in at work , wouldnt turn over . cranks jumping the starter . owner said the ecm was kaput . replaced the ECM with one with same service number , replaced the keyreader , the BCM with one with a different number , and the other little box thing above the fuse box . car starts and runs , door locks go up and down ect. but it comes up with a ABS / traction control fault , but the car has neither . the car the ECM ect. came from does have ABS . the brake light is on

[@MiracleMAX]

Hey Steve, Thanks for your comments. I have come across similar faults with the VZ before and I found this Snap-On link very helpful www.snapontools.com.au/diagnostics/technical_information/vehicle_information/holden I also have another video that showed multiple faults with another VZ with starting issues. kzbin.info/www/bejne/jmPQioFmhsuXpbs Yours though sounds like the incorrect PCM has been fitted or has not been paired correctly with the BCM & PIM. You need to make sure that you install the correct numbers to marry them all together.

[@whorduncan9093]

What scan tool do you use

[@MiracleMAX]

@@whorduncan9093 Hey Duncan Haigh-Evans, I am currently using a GScan 3. But there are other good scan tools out there. Unfortunately, as the old saying goes, 'you get what you pay for.' It all depends what you want from your scan tool and how much you are willing to pay. SnapOn are great and have several features that the GScan doesn't and vice versa, but with the price tag high enough that you would have to sell a kidney to pay for it, it may be out of most people's price range. But it all comes back to what do you need for the price you are willing to pay. Cheers MiracleMAX

[@reckitralph1802]

Been working on my dad's vz V6 crewman. Has sat for over 2 years. faults for fuel , service , abs , wouldn't even turn over . Got another pim , BCM , ecu and the fob out another crewman . Replaced crank sensor . Everything seems to work now and had no fault showing, turns over now but doesn't start . Then came up oil pressure . 🤦 Not liking commodores

[@christianberends8150]

Hi was just wondering what code reader you are using as im looking at buying one but have had no luck getting them to work on my vx 3.8lt commodore

[@MiracleMAX]

Hey Christian, what have you been using? A code reader is a very basic scan tool - no bells & whistles. I use a GScan, but that is in a high price range. However, I also have a Launch Creader IV which seems to work quite well for basic code reading & live data for OBDII

[@christianberends8150]

@@MiracleMAX i was using a topdon as it stated it would work on my vx but it didnt connect tryed update and still no luck

[@MiracleMAX]

@@christianberends8150 Sorry, I've never heard of that Creader. Unfortunately, there are a lot of them around and as an OBDII Creader, it should read anything OBDII related (which is anything to do with Emission Systems), but sometimes they don't give what they have advertised. Are you just trying to read OBDII codes or other systems such as ABS SRS, etc? Have you contacted the seller for confirmation of compatibility with your vehicle?

[@MiracleMAX]

I've just done some more research & from this chart it seems that only the V8 VX was OBDII. Do you have the V6 or V8? www.fueleconomysolutions.com.au/page/obd-ii-applications-guide/list-of-obd-ii-cars-in-australia/

[@christianberends8150]

V6 and yea i have returned the item and getting a refund do you know what creader i would use on the v6

[@coastalmphoto]

Gday mate. Where can I get one of those schematic diagrams from? I have a VZ SVZ

[@MiracleMAX]

Hey Clunesy Mate, I got these schematics from Repco Navigator Pro. This is a professional data site. You could try searching 'VZ Commodore schematic' on a search engine. Sorry I can't be more helpful. It can be very difficult to access the necessary schematics to diagnose problems. Best of luck.

[@coastalmphoto]

+MiracleMAX cheers mate.

[@melbournesubtropicfruits9474]

Hi Dean - Ive had an issue for 7 years with my VY2 on Factory LPG (car runs still ok)- engine light comes on only when cruising at freeway speed when mixture is lean and goes off when at a set of lights - It never goes on when on petrol - this issue began when i holed the sump and was replaced and and battery was off for a few days and mechanics must have either done something in reassembly to cause this - they had no idea and an LPG guy cost me for a new LPG mixer body and stainless leads and didnt fix and was $800 lighter - he had a crappy OBD - not like yours - is there an LPG reset or something in your OBD for the ECU?? Thanks (I also spoke to a guy when fueling who had similar issue with direct gas injection when it first came in that took a bit for Holden to fix but they did)

[@MiracleMAX]

Hey Marcus, You need to ask yourself 'Why is the light coming on'? You stated that it is running lean when the check engine comes on and is fine when on petrol. LPG is a harder fuel to burn and the ignition system must be in top condition for correct burning to take place. Are there any air leaks that are creating a lean mixture? A smoke machine could help you find that. If you had a scan tool, you could look for fuel trims and verify that it is only on LPG, not petrol where it is running lean. Unfortunately, the vapour system is a fickle beast and will react to any faults within the system. Being a factory system, there should be some data and actuations available through the scan tool. If the converter has a coolant blockage, this will also create a lean condition. I would be surprised, but you could always disconnect the battery to reset the KAM (Keep Alive Memory). Don't forget to make sure you have radio codes to reinstall if it has a security system. Hopefully one of these suggestions may help find you fault :) MiracleMAX

[@melbournesubtropicfruits9474]

Thanks for replying - just dont want to go to GMH and get their $$$$ merrygoround at my expense - They wont let you talk to head LPG Tech who would say in 5 sec - yep we know a fix - Yes have asked myself why its coming on - but why does it `Reset` when running at 60kph on LPG or stopped at lights coming into a country town after Fwy speeds or hardly ever around town unless on a really steady throttle - LPG body doesnt overheat either - no air leaks on clamps (may try smoke?) I just think engine management thinks its still running on Petrol and since LPG runs a tad leaner thinks theres an issue causing engine light and when running slow and less lean light resets. Point of interest fuel economy on LPG is same as when i got it in 2006 - actually i remember a friend with a VX on LPG had same issue and never bothered fixing either - I have changed battery also a couple years ago -- maybe the LPG switch button isnt telling ECU its on Gas? this is an interesting one that could be of interest out there

[@MiracleMAX]

The light comes on due to it's relation to an emissions problem and is continuously monitored to make sure the emissions are within legal limits. Depending on how far out of the set parameters and for how long will determine if it becomes a 'hard code' and set a fault code. Could be a million and one things, including incorrect Throttle Position Sensor and as you say, a miscommunication with the ECU. Could be an internal mapping issue with the ECU. Best way to make sure it is running on LPG is to disconnect the mixer or converter solenoid while running and it should cut out. Not sure on this model, but VS used to incorporate petrol added to the LPG under hard acceleration to stop lean mixtures at high RPM. May be a curly one or a simple one - difficult to diagnose without carrying out tests. Hope you can sort it out!

[@melbournesubtropicfruits9474]

Just remembered - was a few years ago - changed 02 sensors - didnt fix - changed TPS too and did same and put back the old one (anyway have some spares) pretty sure is running on LPG when this happens as have to refill tank as usual and dont use petrol much except to start cold - has good plugs and that stainless leads i mentioned - If you have time have a think and next your using your Gscan see if theres an area for LPG recognition for setting up ECU when fitted out newly with an LPG conversion? Cheers and thanks. Just had a lightbulb moment - maybe when battery is off for a lengthy period ECU does reset to original petrol mode not dual fuel mode and when sump was done the repair shop didnt know that?

[@MiracleMAX]

As suggested, it can't hurt to disconnect battery to reset KAM. Will check GScan for LPG settings next time. Good luck!

[@shellez101]

16 fault codes and ya bag out the 96 FORD ??? Seriously

[@MiracleMAX]

But it keeps you interested - right? The old Holden had it's fair share of problems too!

[@paulmihaere8270]

😂😂😂😂

[@tonimichelerabone3262]

The first 3 minutes were not informative in parts, too long winded. Just get to the point, or show how to connect the scan tool. You could have said it more succinctly. Rest was fine. Lovin' that scan tool. Oh BTW writing a comment "down there" was probably misleading and inappropriate. ;)

[@MiracleMAX]

+Toni Michele Rabone Thanks for your comments. Perhaps I should have shown how to connect a scan tool for those that have no knowledge of the tool. The scan tool provides progressive codes as it reads them. I did cut a l-o-t of footage and it is difficult to figure out what to include.But, once again thanks for your comment and interest.Don't forget to share with your friends :)