Walthers Switch Machines - Installation and Review

[@daleroth236]

I quit using Walthers push buttons and bought center off switches from Amazon. Use one of these for 2 crossover turnouts. Push switch one way turnout aligns to normal running. Push switch the other way and turnout now moves to crossover position. I also installed a red LED and a green LED to distinguish which way the turnout is thrown. Green for straight through and red for crossover. These switches are always center off. About the instructions - throw them away. When pushing the rod up through the hole into the turnout cross bar use a bright LED flashlight. Then clamp off the throw rod to hold it in place with small vice grips. This way you can use small wood screws to fasten the Walthers switch machine. I did this myself without anyone's help, and being overweight I figure out things without getting on the floor or on my knees to work on my layout. So far, I have installed 10 and have another 6 to go. The earlier Walthers switch control machines had problems. That has been worked out and Walthers will replace them free of charge.

[@MMRails]

Thanks for the great tips! I hope your comment helps others.

[@user-cu9kz5ec8o]

I just installed 4 of these today. I read all instructions carefully and found all info I needed. Just got done programming them and it couldn't be more simple.

[@MMRails]

That’s so good to hear. It’s nice when things work out the way they are supposed to. Thanks for sharing.

[@user-cu9kz5ec8o]

@@MMRails I definitely watched your video (and another) days before installing them, and of course downloading all the different instructions. I was nervous as hell because my turnouts are DCC only, so I didn't wire up any fascia control switches. Thanks for making this video btw. I forget to say that in the first comment. It was very helpful

[@MMRails]

@@user-cu9kz5ec8o I appreciate that! I’d love to see them in action without push button control. I’ve tried it once but it made an awful noise. I think my Digitrax system is too old or not powerful enough. I keep meaning to do a video on it but honestly, I forget how!

[@TheSwitchList]

I love that you have a Stay-puffed Marshmallow Man figure - that is sooooo awesome. Oh yeah, the rest of the video is great as well!!! -Rick

[@MMRails]

Thanks Rick! Let’s just say my parents hang on to things for a looong time.

[@jaybird111207]

Great how to!! Thanks for sharing as I'm looking into some switch machines for my crossover at the beginning of my yard. I've heard a lot of good thus far about the walthers switch machines. Thanks again.

[@MMRails]

Thank you! I’m really glad it helped you. I hit a few bumps along the way but overall they are great. Good luck with installing yours.

[@jaybird111207]

@@MMRails I'll let you know after I install and test them out.

[@dundasjunctionmodelr.r-jam8267]

Hi Mark,great video, I have been looking at different switch machines, going to add Walthers to my list

[@MMRails]

Thanks James! They also have horizontal switch machines. Lots of neat options. Check out their website, very helpful.

[@EmPtySworld1]

Great video Mark.. Absolutely love it

[@MMRails]

Thanks Darren! Glad you enjoyed it.

[@georgiasunbelt]

Great video Mark...l’ve been debating trying these out...you convinced me 👍🏽

[@MMRails]

Thanks Anthony! Can’t wait to see them on your layout.

[@TheMidlandDorchesterRailroad]

Great information Mark! I almost went with this system on my layout but the “space” it took up under the layout was too much for my tiny shelf layout. Glad to see it working well on yours though!

[@MMRails]

Thanks Sean! If my benchwork was a bit thinner I’d install one for each switch. These will be the last ones. Great product though.

[@Drennan1]

Awesome and extremely informative, thanks Mark

[@MMRails]

Thanks Dennis! I’m glad you enjoyed it.

[@SouthBrooklynRR]

Inspiration Galore with this video, good job!!!

[@MMRails]

Thanks a lot Bill. Entertain, teach and inspire. That’s what I strive for.

[@GoViaorgohome]

Great video! I can’t wait to get some as well. You make it look easy.

[@dundasjunctionmodelr.r-jam8267]

Go/Via/orgohome so, easy you can get Mark to install for you, he is experienced now, so sit back and watch

[@GoViaorgohome]

James Gaulton I like that idea.

[@MMRails]

Wait.... what?

[@MMRails]

Thanks Kris. Trust me when I say it was NOT that easy.

[@GoViaorgohome]

M&M Rails I mean... yaaa... but obstacles bro... obstacles

[@FBMRR]

great video. Awesome Demo. this looks like a good option for a standalone system. cant wait to see it go DCC.

[@MMRails]

Thanks Rick! You may be waiting awhile to see it go DCC. :)

[@FBMRR]

@@MMRails Well we waited a year to get this far. no worries. I'll be here when your ready.

[@TheCreativeModellerHO]

Great video!

[@MMRails]

Thank you so much! Glad you enjoyed it.

[@FredE528]

Great instructional video. Ghost Buster part was LOL funny.

[@MMRails]

Thanks Fred! I’ve been sitting on that gag for over a year. Glad you liked it.

[@FredE528]

You completed it. Fought thru all the &$#* mistakes and problems. Good for you. ⭐️⭐️⭐️ The lack of removable wire is real defect. I replaced the short wire on my Circuitron Smail with really long ones which made getting it into the switch easy.

[@FredE528]

Ghost Buster gag was one of your best. Even better than the Zombies. So clever. 🤪🤩👍🥇

[@MMRails]

Fred E Model Railroad So it is Smail? I thought that was a typo. What did you use to replace the wire? Piano wire? It’s funny you say “you fought thru” because at one point, my legs and knees were trembling from my squat position and sweat was burning my eyes and I thought “no way, it’s now or never!”

[@FredE528]

Video on Smail kzbin.info/www/bejne/g3K2n4hnZ8yhhKM. Love these things as no other device $$ needed. About $30 each but very easy to use.

[@johnranson347]

Man you have some really great videos thanks

[@MMRails]

Thank you John. I work hard on my videos so I’m glad you enjoy them.

[@mercuryoak2]

Mine have the stick atlas switch coil . some of my tyco ones don't lol. Good video and review. At 4:21 I started laughing after you looked at camera and said yeah. . I knew there was something could be said but I'm not saying nothing. Lol

[@MMRails]

Some things are better left unsaid. Thanks for watching.

[@grantbassett2048]

Hi Mark, Great video. Loved the Marshmello man scene, haha ( The pink women Ghost in the libuary scene scared the pants of me as a kid at the Cinema) haha, Learning & Laughter you need 1 with the other in my eyes. Haha. Keep it up Mark ; )

[@MMRails]

Thanks Grant! It’s a favourite movie of mine. Could watch it over and over again. Thanks for watching!

[@dundasjunctionmodelr.r-jam8267]

Hi Mark , i watched both videos you suggested, this switch machine uses the same servo motor that Peco uses this version in much better, easy to set up for DCC, thanks for this , great review . I like it,

[@MMRails]

Thanks again James, I’m glad it was helpful.

[@DruSteel69]

Very impressive tutorial video, Mark. You da man! Love the Ghost Buster scene. Too funny. Oh, S'mores sounds good for dessert tonight. lol Btw, I noticed on your pink foam, the side had the concrete block wall look on it. I like it. Did you do that or you bought it like that? It was around 1:36. Thanks for sharing my friend. Happy hump day! Stay well. And don't forget to sharpen your pencil, bro. HA HA

[@MMRails]

Thanks Drew! I thought about melting real marshmallows all over my layout but then realized... I didn’t have any marshmallows! As for the foam, it just came that. I did nothing special to it. Thanks for watching!

[@MMRails]

Sharpen my pencil!! LOL. Took me awhile. Of course you noticed that. ;)

[@DruSteel69]

M&M Rails - LOL

[@davestrains6816]

Nice installation. They look really nice. Thanks for the tutorial.

[@MMRails]

Thanks Dave! It’s something I should have done a year ago.

[@blystovski]

@1:27 - had the same problem from using 1" foam and 3/4" plywood base. My fix, that has limited hours on it so far but seems alright, was to cut the existing rod just short of the bottom of the servo and heat-shrink a longer 1.2mm steel rod onto the inside of the "L". Rods I purchased on Amazon at the following link, but any HSS steel rod that's sufficiently long should work. No idea the limits of this approach, but I only needed an extra 0.25" so felt comfortable with the approach. I used 1.2mm which is a little sturdier than the factory rod, but I figured since it was a little longer that a little stiffer was probably a good idea.

[@MMRails]

Interesting solution John. I actually thought about soldering a thin wire to extend the rod. Decided against it. I was too nervous to modify the actual machine or rod. Thanks for sharing!

[@SchuylkillRiverValley]

Should've listened to Egon Mark! Is it telling that I'm not surprised you have a giant Sta-Puft guy? Nice job on the switch machines and a great video as always Mark. Enjoyed it. Best, John

[@MMRails]

Thanks John! As soon as I uncrossed the streams everything went back to normal, except now the train room smells like a campfire. ??

[@jaybird111207]

Btw the Ghostbusters cut in.... Awesome!!🤘🤙😎

[@MMRails]

Thanks!

[@dundasjunctionmodelr.r-jam8267]

Mark I will be installing 6 of these for my 3 crossovers on my new layout , but will need to control one double crossover using my NCE power cap , still a great video

[@MMRails]

Thanks James! Good luck with your installation. I can control the switch with my Digitrax but it makes a humming sound. I keep meaning to make a video.

[@LukeLovesTrains-Mr.RailYard]

Pretty cool video.

[@MMRails]

Thanks!

[@EverythingTrainsMedia]

very nice, do you know if these would work, with ctc signalling and jmri with the digitrax signal system?

[@MMRails]

Not sure. You’ll have to ask Walthers themselves. Sorry.

[@IronHorseModelRailroad]

Great Video. I will be doing this soon I hope. I was wondering how I was going to go about doing it. Now I have some idea. I enjoyed the video. I also use peco turnouts so this was helpful for that as well. I also realize i'm probably going to need some help when I do it. :-) I will be re-visiting this video at that time! Sta Puff NIce! I hope you are well. Brian

[@MMRails]

Thanks Brian! I’ll come give you a hand. What bus do I take? The number 7 or 13? I’ll just get off when I see a nice tomato garden.

[@IronHorseModelRailroad]

@@MMRails If you'll come, I'll just send the ticket. all the arrangements will be made. NO worries! :-)

[@3006USMC]

Excellent video, is there a way then to connect all this to an ATLAS signal aspect track side?

[@MMRails]

Thank you. Unfortunately I can’t help you with that question. You’ll have to contact Walthers. Or Atlas.

[@trainroomgary]

😎 "Oh No" above my pay grade, Not for Lionel, but I do have a piano. 🎹 • Cheers from The Detroit & Mackinac Railway 🚂

[@MMRails]

Hahaha! Thanks for watching anyway Gary.

[@johnwalsh6844]

That's a lot of money and a lot of work to control one switch. 🍁 That being said, nice video.

[@MMRails]

Thanks John. I made the sacrifice for the viewers. Haha.

[@jjjcmo]

Very informative - thanks!

[@MMRails]

Thanks Jim!

[@csxmad]

Mark now your really getting stuck into all this wiring, well done and the switches look great as well cheers Robert. PS now i'm hungry for some marshmallows lol

[@MMRails]

Thanks Robert! Funny you mention the wiring, I went and fiddled and now the lights don’t come on. Luckily the switches still switch. Technology eh? At least roasting marshmallows doesn’t require any fancy equipment.

[@dundasjunctionmodelr.r-jam8267]

Ok Mark , do I need both buttons to operate a cross over or can I use the double light button, Walthers is out of stock for the kit you used ( button)

[@MMRails]

You should be able to do a crossover with the one button. Double check the instructions. The way I set it up is so that the lights show which track is open. I recommend testing everything before installing. Good luck! Can’t wait to see the video.

[@dundasjunctionmodelr.r-jam8267]

Great will set it and test , just need a button

[@DaveCoTrains]

Awesome how to dude. I'll be sure to never cross my wires, although maybe he could help build my layout. Lol

[@MMRails]

Haha, thanks Dave. He’s good at holding nails but when it comes to soldering he gets really nervous around hot tools.

[@mysticrailroad]

thank you for this vid. i'll have to get into switches eventually and now i know those switches would require similar modifications for my layout due to the length of the rod. the thickness of my layout surface is 2.25 in.

[@MMRails]

I’m glad it helped. I wish they sold different rod lengths that you could interchange. When I rule the world I’ll make it so. Thanks for watching!

[@markgilbertson4917]

Same issue for me, but I replaced the actuator throw rods with new piano wires purchased art Hobby Lobby. I have twenty switch machines on my layout. Get a extra long 1/16 inch drill bit from Menards to locate the switch bar hole to the track bed. Works great as a guilde pin for the paper template on the underside of the layout wood. After running into many of the same issues, I got pretty good at installing them. They work fine, I recommend them.

[@shanestrains7179]

U r funny beyond belief. Great video. Keep up the good work

[@MMRails]

Thanks a lot Shane. I appreciate that. Really glad you enjoy my videos.

[@davidmuse7004]

I got these when they cam out and very easy to install and work great! Muse

[@MMRails]

Thanks for the feedback. I regret not installing mine sooner.

[@willied8909]

Thanks for the video! You are right, the screws provided absolutely suck. What size wood screws did you end up going with?

[@MMRails]

Thank you. I totally forget what size screws I used. Sorry. It was a long time ago. I tend to use whatever I have laying around. A carpenter I am not.

[@dundasjunctionmodelr.r-jam8267]

Mark I have watched this video several time now, do you need both buttons to operated two switch machines, the two switch kit out of stock, I can the switches separate but no drilling template, but I have good idea on how to install and purchased the correct wood screws to install ,

[@MMRails]

You should be able to switch two turnouts with one button. I have two buttons but they both do the same thing. You need to make sure you have a wire connecting the two machines together though. Just remember, test it before you install it. I wish I did.

[@dundasjunctionmodelr.r-jam8267]

Thanks Mark, only thing I need is long drill bit, 1/2 foam, 1/2 plywood plus cork bed , getting closer to laying track

[@MMRails]

Good luck!

[@jerrywilson1996]

Can you add a trackside signal to these?

[@MMRails]

You can and I hope to make a video this summer on how to do it.

[@dundasjunctionmodelr.r-jam8267]

Hi Mark , another question what suppler did you use

[@MMRails]

Otter Valley Railroad

[@dundasjunctionmodelr.r-jam8267]

I was checking OVR did not see the extra stuff, I do like it

[@MMRails]

James Gaulton Check Yankee Dabbler. Or Midwest. You can get discounts by using certain KZbinr codes. They’re American but good stores.

[@dundasjunctionmodelr.r-jam8267]

Mark when I am ready I will check with Lorne at OVR

[@sparky107107]

Smails. From tortoise. I use those ones because they have built in decoders. And I can use the nce throttle to operate them

[@MMRails]

Thanks for your input Dave. Definitely convenient.

[@HumancityJunction]

Why did you chose the Walthers switch machines instead of Tortoise or Cobalt switches? Can these be DCC controled or are they DC/Push Button only? Will you use the Walthers switch machines for all your switches? And of course you have a Stay Puff Marshmallow Man!

[@MMRails]

I chose these switch machines because of the plug and play feature. Also, I couldn’t find a video about them on YT, so I thought why not. These can be DCC controlled and no, I won’t be powering anymore switches. Too hard for my layout. I didn’t think ahead. Next layout I will for sure.

[@wbfranks]

To reverse the indication colors, just reverse the controller plug connection to the switch machine, ie install it backwards. You can do this on the back of the controller button if it's easier than crawling under the layout. The Reference Guide available on the Walthers web site explains the options available to change the indicator colors match your routing.

[@MMRails]

Thanks for this Bill. I did try what you mentioned and regret not filming it. I might try it again but changing the wires doesn’t make the yellow light turn green, it just moves the yellow light over. Hard to explain but like I said, I might try again. Maybe I’ll even do a follow up video if there is some interest. Thanks again!

[@wbfranks]

@@MMRails There is also the Swap option which reverses the norm and rev positions of the switch machines, ie a physical swap. Reversing the plug logically swaps the indication, ie the indicator shows rev when the machine is normal. Between the two, you can show either color for either position of the machine.

[@MMRails]

Bill Franks Ah! Thank you! I will try that. Are you sure nothing bad will happen? ;) If I can’t reverse it physically then I’ll trick it into thinking so. Smart. I really appreciate the help.

[@SMTMainline]

Excellent installation and review! I'm curious why you decided to go with Walthers - It looks like they work well but did they have a feature that made them your choice? I've got Rapido's switch machine and so far I'm really happy with it but then again, I don't have much to make a comparison so maybe the others are better. Great video as always

[@MMRails]

Thanks Harrison! I wanted to try these because they were new on the market and plug and play. There aren’t many videos out there about them so why not. I’ll have to rewatch your Rapido Switch video because I’m always willing to try something new. But if memory serves me, you need room beside your switch for them. Might not work on my layout. Thanks for watching!

[@robingagnon9659]

Who has a a Stay-puffed Marshmallow HO Scale?!! haha only you could have that!!!! Nice video and very informative. Instead of gluing the buttons, couldn't you have use some kind of metal bracket screwed over them (from underneath) ?

[@MMRails]

Thanks Robin! My parents kept all my old toys, and I’m glad they did! Haha. As for the bracket, good idea, I would just need screws short enough not to poke through the control panel. There’s always a way.

[@waynelawrence6497]

Walthers switch machines are the best on the market; simply plug and play; no soldering required. I have PECO Unifrog which can also be wired for powering the frog with these motors. Unsure of this part of the wiring, I emailed Walters and Dan responded within 24 hours with full instructions as to how to do that. He also sent instructions on wiring a PECO 3-Way Electrofrog Turnout which turned out to be quite simply, including powering the frogs. Their website has all info to alter the lights, including having all green or all amber. I am baffled as to why Walthers hasn't taken over the market as these are so much easier to work with than Tortoise or Cobalt, yet offer all the same features and options for a comparable price , but the convenience of not soldering saves so much time and effort.

[@MMRails]

Thanks for your comment Wayne! Not everyone shares your opinion but I was impressed with them and after all these years they still work fine!

[@JoeG-firehousewhiskey]

I was looking at getting these. They seem very user friendly. Ultimately I went with tortoise switches, which is a lot more work.

[@MMRails]

These have pros and cons. The pro is they work well. The con is they don’t come with someone to install them for you.

[@yrunaked4]

Another great video Mark. I have been wondering what this system is like and this is a great review of it. what became of the Stay-puffed Marshmallow Man? did the Zombies eat him??? so much excitement on your HO scale world. Cheers Rob

[@MMRails]

Thanks Rob! Yes, the zombies had a good old fashioned marshmallow roast around a tire fire. Haha.

[@ProScaleModels]

Great vid and helpful. New sub here.

[@MMRails]

Thank you! You’ve inspired me to listen to some old Run DMC.

[@ProScaleModels]

@@MMRails Hahaha that's awesome

[@CM-ARM]

I'll have to compare them with the Tortoise switch to see the cost difference. I really like the plug and play style switch and buttons, Chris

[@MMRails]

Price is something I left out on purpose because cost varies store to store, city to city. Thanks for watching!

[@CM-ARM]

Understand

[@JasonWood_Escarpment]

I was wondering switch way you would take this video Mark? Actually, this is the first time I have seen this type. Using double sided tape will help hold it to the underside of the layout framework while you take a trip to the hardware store to get your woodwork screws. Or even if you want to have break and have a cup of tea in between..or not. Oh great Ghost Busters scene! Cheers Jason

[@MMRails]

Thanks Jason! I’m so glad you’re still watching YT videos. I’d miss your clever comments. The double sided tape is a great idea... if I had some. What I needed was another set of hands. My monkey tail doesn’t work like it used to.

[@Building_America]

How do these switch machines compare to the Tortoise Switch Machines?

[@MMRails]

Not sure. I’ll pin your comment for awhile and hopefully someone will answer for you.

[@FredE528]

Check this kzbin.info/www/bejne/paO7ZIdter5niZI. About 7 mins into video.

[@jamidishman3332]

do have to use strofoam on your layout for switch machine

[@MMRails]

No you do not. Do you have other questions? I’m not a professional but I know a few things about them.

[@theeandlcmodelrailroad5528]

According to the Model railroader evaluation and installation of this product; you use the auxiliary power input on the controller board connected to rail power (or command bus) for both power and DCC commands. You use the centering jumper for the controller to "learn" the address that you want to use for each of the 8 possible switch machines. Please find the Model Railroader KZbin video (I had but lost it... sorry.) Earl. 22April2021

[@MMRails]

Thanks Earl! I will look for the video and post the link here. I appreciate the comment. I’m hoping this will help others.

[@MMRails]

So, funny enough, I had the link to that video in the description from the get go. I just watched until the end and he gives a quick tutorial on how to set it up. He makes it look easy, but I’m still looking for a simpler explanation. He also doesn’t mention the system he uses. I use Digitrax. One day I may dive into it. If I do I will post a video.

[@seanspennywisemiserrr]

Hey Mark. Great breakdown of the walthers switch machines. Thanks for making my decision harder...tortoise, cobalt and now this. Btw did you round up all those zombies because it seems like you have a ghost problem now.

[@MMRails]

Haha, thanks Sean. I like the plug and play feature of these. The others might give you more options for customizable set up. Not sure. Good luck!

[@CreativeRails]

Awesome job Mark! But I must ask, did you replace those Philips screws with Philips screws???😉

[@MMRails]

Thanks Ben. I asked Philip if I could use his screws, guess what he said? Screw you. Go figure. Thanks for watching!

[@RussellToris]

Once installed these machines are awesome, but what a pain! I have Atlas code 55 N scale and the bar doesn't even fit into the hole on the track :(

[@MMRails]

That’s too bad. They do work well but the installation wasn’t as easy as they say it is. Thanks for watching!

[@ronduz1281]

Refer to part 8 in the switch reference guide fig 8.5 it will show you how to correct your led issue

[@MMRails]

Thanks, I really appreciate that Ron. I’m going to leave it as it is because I starting fiddling and now the yellow lights don’t work at all.

[@LarsPW]

The switch motor reaches very deep under the layout. That might become an obstacle to certain configurations.

[@MMRails]

True. Pros and cons I guess.

[@cloverdalerail1093]

Good video this should get you James Wright III to sub you he is a Ghostbusters guy. A NCE switch 8 is a super simple way to connect the switch machines to DCC

[@MMRails]

Thanks Marcel! Do you think NCE and Digitrax play well together?

[@NorthAndre]

I have the 3 vertical walthers switch machines of this layout set and they’ve been reliable and tolerated getting bumped by a stuff under the bench. But then I bought 6 horizontal versions for a viaduct system I’ve been building with total separate controls and buttons. It’s been a disaster. 3 function well, 2 are extremely temperamental and 1 just doesn’t work I’ve ruled out wiring problems, power, friction or jamming, distribution blocks issues and buttons. Had I not had a total of 9 machines, it would be much harder to trouble shoot. Error I get is the light on the actual machine just flashes yellow, but it doesn’t actuate. The button control light reacts for a moment but reverts to the original setting in sort of a “tried to send the signal but it don’t work” kind of way.

[@MMRails]

Sorry to hear that. Thanks for the feedback. I fiddled with mine and now the yellow lights don’t come on at all. I guess you get what you pay for. I won’t be installing anymore just because it’s too much work. A friend of mine just bought a box of them and hopefully he doesn’t run into the same issues you experienced.

[@NorthAndre]

@@MMRails I’ve had that issue with the light. But after letting things sit “on” for awhile...15-20 mins and then unplugging and plugging it back in. It all seems to restore itself. I think the issues are fixable, but I don’t think the system may be quite as turnkey as it’s made out to be. Still my experience 2 years ago with the 3 vertical switch machines has been 100% reliability.

[@patmccarthy1624]

I'm in the process of installing seven Wathers Horizontal Switch Machines on an 8' x 2' shelf layout. Six of the switch machines work properly; one will operate twice, then go the light show without the jumper in place. I've tried everything I know to troubleshoot without result. I'm going to send that one back. Another issue I had was the throw range of the rod was insufficient to fully throw my Peco turnouts. Took me a while, but I found the instructions on adjusting the throw - sad part is you have to remove the switch machine from the benchwork to make the adjustment. Overall, I'm satisfied. They operate as advertised; save for the lone switch machine that had the trouble. M&M, thanks for the inspiration to use this product; your video was a big help in my decision to use them.

[@NorthAndre]

Not long after I originally posted, I contacted Walthers for help and they gave some great advice, but it appears two came from a bad batch. Still, I’ll continue to use these moving forward with 16 total. Ultimately they are very reliable. Regarding the throw, I know now after installing a few to increase the travel by moving the screws on the actuator. Since I spray paint all the track rails, I never know if the paint might add more friction for the machine to overcome.

[@MMRails]

@@patmccarthy1624 That’s great Pat! I’m glad I inspired you. I like them overall. They obviously have some cons, but I think they have mostly pros. Where did you find how to adjust the actuator??

[@choochoocharlie9388]

I never seen this before 🤔

[@MMRails]

My friend told me about them, thought I’d try them.

[@2sk21]

These switch machines require a huge amount of vertical space under the layout - even more than Tortoise machines!

[@MMRails]

Do you think so? I’ve never installed a tortoise but they seem similar in size.

[@2sk21]

@@MMRails This switch motor definitely looks to be deeper than a Tortoise

[@crusty3260]

Hello Sir, I wish I had seen this video earlier. If you want to alternate the color of the lights all you have to do is flip the plug upside down where it connects to the switch machine. It is so simple it's disgusting. No need to uninstall anything or remount your machines. Suuuuuuuuper simple.

[@MMRails]

Thanks for the tip. I’m sure I tried that and still didn’t get the result I wanted. I may try it again. Thanks for the comment!

[@chip9177]

I purchased four of these to start. I liked the idea, but, wow, not impressed. Always test before install. I installed the first one....difficult location, PITA, got it in, does not work. Yellow light in the machine flashes one long flash & three short flashes.....no idea. swapped it out, 2nd works fine, installed the third, it works, but sounds like it keeps trying to cycle or has not traveled far enough in one direction to turn itself off. Installed the forth & got the flashing light display on the switch machine again......one out of four, not bad......

[@MMRails]

Sorry to hear that Chip. Did you remove the little plug? I forget what they call it. But yes, always test before installing. 1/4 works or 1/4 doesn’t work? I’m getting mixed reviews. Mine still work but the indicator lights don’t. I’m planning on doing a follow up video this summer. Not that it will help you. :) Thanks for the feedback.

[@fiercetrains4052]

Bruh mine won’t work, I have everything wired correctly and I use the 942-123 fascia controller and nothing works

[@MMRails]

Hmmm, you might have to contact Walthers. I’m not sure what the issue is. It’s not a perfect system.

[@theeandlcmodelrailroad5528]

Very nice. I have a set of 5 myself. No instructions on how to integrate them with MRC, Digitrax or any DCC system. Not even NMRI suggested connections. DC is fine. Quite a line on the box that says that a decoder is included.

[@MMRails]

Thanks! There must be instructions somewhere out there on how to hook them up to switch by throttle. I have Digitrax and I know they sell a small doo-hickey that connects the two. One day. Maybe.

[@paultackowiak1553]

@@MMRails I'm wrestling with this now and am trying to connect them to a Digitrax SE8C board. It's definitely not simple, but someone has to have done it. Tortoises on the other hand are super simple to connect to Digitrax. The issue seems to be that the Walther's switches have their own decoder built in to them which may complicate things.

[@MMRails]

@@paultackowiak1553 Keep me updated Paul. I’m curious to know how it works and I’m sure other viewers would love to know.

[@paultackowiak1553]

@@MMRails I finally got it all working, but with caveats. I am running and powering the switches through the track. The supplied output cable and pins are just good for the optional facia board buttons (at least in the Digitrax world). I'll order them just because they look to be relatively easy to install, but you can otherwise just manage the switches from your throttle. The big caveat here is that I now need to order a Digitrax power manager so as to avoid short circuits. The switches work as advertised (well 2 out of 3, the first one had a dead servo and is going back - hopefully the other 8 will be fine), with the Digitrax throttle identifying and controlling the switches as programmed via the Walthers/Digitrax instructions. One thing to note - if you set two switches up as a crossover, give them the same address # even when the second switch is only connected to the first one through the supplied cable). I also first thought the attached micro switches were connected to the circuit board, but it turns out they are really just stock micro switches that are screwed on. The servo just pushes the trigger on the switch when it moves. That makes it easy in terms soldering wires on them or swapping them out if you need to. Now for figuring out how to connect ISE infrared occupancy detectors to the Digitrax - ooy.

[@MMRails]

@@paultackowiak1553 I really appreciate you taking the time to explain how you did this. I’ve pinned the original comment in hopes that it helps others. It sounds quite complex. I’m impressed!

[@warbabyproductions]

Noice

[@MMRails]

Thanks!

[@StevenMedford]

Use Caboose Industries ground throws to avoid the cursing.

[@MMRails]

Haha, thanks for the tip!

[@WaitAMinute1989]

Two sided tape as a temporary measure, I too swear a lot.

[@MMRails]

Good friggin’ idea! Lol. Thanks for watching.

[@williamlais2409]

Did you figure out how the switch machines can be controlled with DCC throttles. I.e., digitrax?

[@MMRails]

Hi Bill. I have not yet tried to connect the switches to my throttle. It’s on my list. But, with this comment you’ve given me some motivation to try it sooner than later. I just have to buy a special piece from Digitrax so that they are compatible. Stay tuned!

[@williamlais2409]

@@MMRails I worked it out with Walthers tech support today. It is simple but there pronted instructions are too vague. Is there another way I can reach you and we can compare notes offline and then you can post it later?

[@MMRails]

You can email me at [e-mail]. I’m very interested in what you found out.

[@colevoncole3180]

Just installed 2 of these THE SCREWS SUCK!!!!!!! also when will one of these company's come up with a template we can use from above instead of below also I almost fried my brain trying to get yellow for thrown and green for straight away on controller 2 hrs later I figured out just turn in opposite directions on install great product but much improvement needed

[@MMRails]

Thanks for your feedback. Much improvement is needed for sure. I wish the instructions were a little more clear about the green and yellow lights. I’m hoping to do some follow up videos soon. So much to learn!

[@KerleyExpress]

Who you going to call Mark buster lol

[@MMRails]

Just don’t call me on weekends.