Рет қаралды 72
I just love warm cozy collars but overheat easily, so having a fastener is always welcome.
This collar is very easy to draft in FreeCAD, even if you opened it for the first time, and requires minimal polishing in Inkscape (I turn the pattern piece to have the vertical grainline).
Written instructions
In technical terms, we generate a truncated Cone in Part workbench of FreeCAD, then move to Mesh workbench, select the long curved face and Unwrap face. This is meant to unfold, or unwrap, a cone into a flat shape that can be cut out of fabric, or paper, and glued back into a 3D surface... such as our collar.
That gives us a pattern without any seam allowances, but those can be easily added to the Cone measurements.
We use three parameters to generate a Cone: Height, Radius 1, Radius 2. Height is the finished collar height, and all the seam/hem allowances to stitching the collar to the bodice, and also hem allowance for the top, should be added to Height. In my case, I'd add 0.6cm+2cm for the top hem, so 2.6cm or 26mm in FreeCAD units (they can be changed, I just didn't in the video).
Radius 1 and 2 stand for the neckline length (measure one seam allowance away from the cut edge) and the neck circumference at the top of the collar (for high stretch thick knits like Polartec Powerstretch used in the video, I leave them at zero ease, but adjust to your liking). To make a collar like mine, you will need to add hem allowance along the straight edges, I add 2cm, and also add overlap amount (once), which is also 2cm. So you'd need to add 6cm (60mm) to each of the Radii.
With these additions, you'll only need to turn the part in Inkscape (and export to PDF, unless you project from Inkscape directly). You can turn it in FreeCAD too, but it's far easier in Inkscape.
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I use Inkscape, a free vector editor for Linux, Windows and Mac
In this video I also use FreeCAD, a free 3d modelling software for... I think the same platforms.
After rotating in Inkscape and the usual export, the resulting pattern is projector friendly. I make mine one layer thick, so I add 6mm to the bottom (to sew the neckline), and 2cm along the other sides to hem, and then install snaps along the straight edges.
All these allowances can be added right in FreeCAD: the curved ones to the Height of the Cone we are modelling, and the straight ones to the circumferences (both of them).
More pattern adjustments in Inkscape: • Inkscape sewing tutorials
Pattern modifications in Inkscape and GIMP for projector sewing: • Projecting prepping
Projector by Econceptive from the Noun Project
#projectorsewing #opensourcesoftware