Watch First! Hughes Power Watchdog Hardwired RV Surge Protector + Shut-Off Review // Pros & Cons

[@AdventureRocks]

For those interested in buying the Hardwired 50A Surge Protector (Permanent) amzn.to/3iWhFL5

[@mikemcmanus1179]

Great video! Did the mounting brackets come with the Hardwired version?

[@AdventureRocks]

@@mikemcmanus1179 yes, and screws too

[@mikemcmanus1179]

@@AdventureRocks Thanks!

[@gdan8259]

Thanks for sharing, I really good concise video. Still sold on the unit two years later? Thanks again.

[@AdventureRocks]

Yes, in fact I actually switched RVs about 9 months ago, and put the same exact unit (only 30A) on my new travel trailer. It's really just one of those things you set and never have to worry about again. And Hughes customer service is superb, they stand behind their products. They just came out with a new gen 2 version, but it is just portable/plug-in for now. I suspect in a few months they'll release the gen 2 hardwired version.

[@gdan8259]

Thanks for sharing. I do have a question, any hum from the unit? Thanks.

[@AdventureRocks]

If my ear is within a couple feet I can hear an extremely faint hum, but any further out and not noticeable. I have a transfer switch nearby it and that one has a much more noticeable hum.

[@armentaaw]

Mine is hardwired after transfer switch. Sometimes I use shore power from my garage to the front compartment where I wired a fifty amp receptacle that I can also plug my generator to. Thanks for these good videos.

[@AdventureRocks]

Great idea. Thank you

[@IAmThatGuy-ne6gw]

Why I don’t like the hardwired version. No way to bypass. There may be circumstances when you want to bypass the EPO function. There is no way to do that with a hardwired model without wiring around the unit. Progressive Industries EMS units has a bypass feature.

[@AdventureRocks]

@@IAmThatGuy-ne6gw you raise a good point. Would be nice feature to have a bypass.

[@mattschroeder3175]

Can you get me any info on the box that you show at 16:36?

[@AdventureRocks]

Yes, on mine Jayco used the Progressive Dynamics model PD52 for the automatic transfer switch. I believe it is standard on all units ordered with the gen prep option or Onan generator installed. If any other questions don't hesitate to ask.

[@haroldb5569]

Thanks for the vid! One question I have is I read a lot that it makes a loud humming noise? Is this true and is it tolerable? Thanks

[@AdventureRocks]

Yes, I've noticed hum...it's minor though. I notice it when I'm in my storage area in basement, ears within a few feet. But, I don't notice it outside the RV, even when up close to where it is mounted on opposite side of wall. Inside the RV living space, if I'm directly over the Watchdog on the "floor" above and nothing else is running in RV I can barely notice it. But, it's pretty faint. Once an AC is running or something else, I don't notice it. I'd say if the Watchdog is near your bed or a sleeping area, within 3-4 feet of your ears you'll notice it and if you're sensitive to a hum like that it could be problematic, but otherwise for the rest of us it is negligible.

[@haroldb5569]

Thanks for the reply

[@2001pass]

Thank you for the well informed video. After watching i feel confident i can do the install myself. Looking forward to your feedback regarding your experience while using this device.

[@AdventureRocks]

Thank you! So far it's working great.

[@2001pass]

Not sure if it matters but on my transfer switch shore power inlet line 1 is Red and just opposite line 1 going out is black. I'm not a electrician but its throwing me off. Does it matter what hot (Red or Black) goes where as long as you have the white in the neutral position?

[@2001pass]

I found out the red and black were interchangeable. Still a pucker factor while closing the main breaker. Everything is good.

[@AdventureRocks]

@@2001pass Yes, that is correct. Just two separate legs of 120V essentially. Agreed though, always nice to keep the colors consistent.

[@DexKoontz]

I installed mine in March '22 in the easiest place which was above the laundry closet door in the 5th Wheel living room. That light is BRIGHT!! Hughes Power sent at no charge a "mask" made to shade that light. It is great.

[@nosoupforyou425]

My 2 cents..... hardwired is more of a hindering since if an issue arises such as damage you have to work around. And those exposed wires are a joke. Pedastal mount is simlly unplugg, done. Replace the board and reinstall when able. As far as convenience- you have to plug in shore power anyway, so i see no save of time. And at least 100 ways to cover or dim the light so

[@AdventureRocks]

Good point. Always a give and take, right?

[@thecasualrver]

Nice video, I will add this, one of the main reasons the connections are done on the outside of the case, the inside has a inductive pick up lead silicone dab in place as well as all the contact blocks terminal lugs are torqued and Loctite in place. All the electrical components has silicone dabs on them to keep the connection points from coming loose. It also uses anti vibration pads in the case. The only time the cover should be removed would be to replace the Surge Module. The cases are different for hardwired vs portable units. For the dog face white light, there is a darkling cover that can be purchased. One more feature, you can sign up for text alerts on your phone, this will notify you of any issues as well. Safe Travels.

[@AdventureRocks]

Great info, thank you for sharing.

[@mossymaple]

Hello, can you use a 50 amp to 20 amp piggyback plug so this can be used on standard household outlets? For example the kilowatt model sold at harbor freight can only monitor upto 15 amps. So your limited on what appliances ect can be monitored. But this power watchdog has higher amp rating. Any feedback is appriciated. Thanks again...

[@AdventureRocks]

I think I understand what you are asking, but double check me. I have successfully connected a 15A (120V) pigtail adapter to my 50A plug on coach, which runs to the Hughes EPO and it works fine. Obviously if I exceed the 15A of power then it'll trip breaker, but it does work with the Hughes EPO 50A as long as I keep under the 15A supplied by outlet (it's just sending the same 120V to both legs of the 50A as opposed to separate 120V legs on a true 50A outlet).

[@mossymaple]

@@AdventureRocks yes thanks for clarification. If I happen to find a 20 amp adapter that fits that 50 amp surge protector I will be good upto 20 amps.

[@ComputerGuyAndy]

Great video, Thanks... I have a question: Can this be used in a modular home (or in a house) to protect sensitive electronics such as: TV's, PC's, and other delicate devices that might be damaged by low voltage? Also, will it protect my sensitive devices while supplying power with a non inverter generator? I burned up two 50" TVs during our last two day outage.

[@AdventureRocks]

Thank you. Yes, you could use the plug-in version if you're only using it ocassionally with generator just to make it easier to connect: amzn.to/3uJ8TUJ I don't have experience in hardwiring it permanently to a modular home, but I suppose if the modular home only has 50A service, then technically you could hardwire it in too. Otherwise if you've got 100A or 200A service there's probably a more residential-rated solution out there.

[@ComputerGuyAndy]

@@AdventureRocks no it's only a 30amp service on a single wide module with only 8 breakers in total. There's nothing larger than 20amps in the whole box. I can have one of these hardwired into the box when the electrician comes to install the transfer switch. I just wanted to make sure it's going to protect what I think it's going to protect. I'm more worried about protecting sensitive electronics from the generator than the power company.

[@AdventureRocks]

@@ComputerGuyAndy Makes sense. I don't have experience running a non-inverter generator for electronics equipment...but as you alluded, it is typically discouraged. I guess the one thing it wouldn't protect against is if you find your generator is constantly fluctuating within the permitted voltage range of the Hughes EPO...just going up and down constantly, but still in range. Not sure how that impacts electronics? Tyipcally what I see on shore power is a sudden drop or spike that the Hughes protects against, but very seldom. I've only experienced it at a handful of RV parks while on shore power. If you're looking for a decent inverter generator the Westinghouse iGen4500 is good value for price. Anyway, a bit out of my wheel house so would be interested to see what electrician thinks on all of that. Hope this helps.

[@jocelynpethel1932]

Another great video. Can you show us how and where you plug in your RV Surge Protector in your Pinnacle. Thanks for all.

[@AdventureRocks]

Yes, so mine is actually hard wired so I never have to plug in anything. Right at the 13:50 timecode is where I go over the install considerations. It's pretty straight forward and best of all, once it is installed, you never have to remember to connect it or set it up.

[@larrymccorkle3409]

You responded to a previous question. Thank you for that. My ordered Jayco Micro TT still has not arrived so we haven’t yet ordered the surge protectors. This is difficult decision. Progressive or Power Watchdog 30 amp hardwired. The Watchdog has a surge board that can be replaced if it saved your RV. Progressive does not. I’m not sure if Progressive will replace the unit or not. But the progressive does have a switch if you needed to bypass the EMS. Watchdog does not? I’m no electrician so what needs to be done if you needed to bypass the Watchdog to run a functioning RV if you know the power is safe? Finally the Watchdog is NOT UL rated where Progressive is. Could that ever be an issue for any reason? Thanks again.

[@AdventureRocks]

Correct. Really both have equal pros and cons, so we don't get the "best of both worlds" with either of them. Maybe one of them will update to include ea other's features and create a new generation...that'd be a knock out. On the bypass, I've never needed to bypass mine, but if I did I keep extra large wire nuts handy for a quick fix, or since I kept my original cable and didn't cut it, I can simply just re-route the input of the surge to the input of the shore power on transfer switch...maybe a 10-15 min job if needed. So I definitely recommend not cutting the length of your original 50a wires so that you can easily restore if needed. Hope that makes sense (mentioned right around the 15:00 timecode). Certainly would be nice if there was a quick means to bypass on the Hughes. I did not know about the lack of UL rating. I know little about the UL ratings other than that it's a 3rd party that tests and rates all sorts of electronics and devices for safety. It could be Hughes never gave thought to having it UL tested, or perhaps didn't think it was necessary? Hard to know the reason there, but great point to bring up.

[@theturneyjourney]

Another great video!

[@AdventureRocks]

Thank you!

[@thepeoplesadvisor]

In the. Idea you mentioned it protecting for just over 6,000 joules but the link you provided is for one that covers 4,800 joules. Am I missing something?

[@AdventureRocks]

Depends on which model you buy. My 50A hardwired is 6,100 J, but other models offer different levels of protection. The 30A is closer to 3K J. They also have a newer replacement surge module at 4,800 J.

[@thepeoplesadvisor]

@@AdventureRocks thanks. From what I can find they only sell the 6,100 on their website and 4,800 on Amazon.

[@GimpyCamper]

Im installing one now… I think it’s going to be a nice upgrade

[@ifish5409]

I’ve ordered this unit twice now from Amazon and both times they sent me the portable version even though the description clearly states that it is the hardwired version. Trying it a 3rd time. Interesting comments about not cutting the main harness. I don’t have a transfer switch in my 5th wheel so that is the route I was going to go. If I were to purchase 7 or 8 feet of additional wire I would have to take the original wiring out of the power panel to connect to one side of it and put new wires in the panel. I have watched a few people do this on KZbin but it certainly seems daunting…

[@AdventureRocks]

You know now that you mention it, I remember having the exact same problem about getting the portable version on Amazon instead of hard wired. I completely forgot about that, but I remember now I ended up ordering it from eTrailer instead. I figured it must have been some kind of temporary inventory issue that Amazon needed to sort out, but that was over 6 months ago so apparently they've got it wrong all together. If you take the trim bezel off your converter charger panel, you'll see where the main 50 amp connection feeds into the bus bars, and that's where I would recommend disconnecting the existing 4x wires and purchasing the new wire to go in its place. It's not the end of the world to cut your existing wire, but I do like the idea of being able to restore it back to original if anything ever happened or I changed my mind about it. I agree it sounds daunting initially, but I think you can do it! 😀

[@alanb.4660]

@@AdventureRocks Etrailer provides great service !!

[@slothhikersofalberta7056]

I ordered the portable version and Amazon sent me the hardwired version, so I just went for that. 🤣

[@AdventureRocks]

@@slothhikersofalberta7056 How funny. Seems everyone else had the opposite problem. Well, glad you got it at least!

[@slothhikersofalberta7056]

@@AdventureRocks right? I thought about sending it back....but im glad I kept this one instead.

[@stevedenoyer5956]

Not sure why you need the app? If the unit protects and doesn’t record events or history. Trying to figure out the advantages of the app?

[@AdventureRocks]

Sometimes I use it to see real-time power consumption on both legs. Could be handy to troubleshoot wattage/amp related issues, especially with 3 ACs. Agree though, definitely would like to see more features in V2 app.

[@alanb.4660]

another nice video. Couple of point...I agree it should have strain relief for the wires. Resolution is a little off at that low level of power usage 1.1 amps x 125 volts should read ~137 watts. Also, the appropriate size wire nuts can save the day in case of a failure of the Watch dog or the transfer switch.

[@AdventureRocks]

Great tips!

[@stevedenoyer5956]

Will this 50 amp system also work on 30 amp, just in case you’re at a park that only has up to 30 amp service or maybe the only site they have is 30?

[@AdventureRocks]

Yes, in fact I've tested it on 15A 120V as well. Obviously you can't exceed watts available or outlet will try, but it'll work fine otherwise.

[@theghostlyorb]

Do you remember what kind of extra cable you used? I think it's 6 gauge? Hopefully installing mine soon and I think I'm going to take your advice and not cut the wire. Thanks!

[@AdventureRocks]

Sure, glad to help. Pretty sure it was #6.

[@larrymccorkle3409]

Total newbie here. Actually both DW and I are in our 70’s with no experience. We have ordered a ‘23 ft Jayco Micron TT. Also I am the actual one and only worst DIY man ever. So I’ll get a certified RV tech to install this. Actually he recommended it over the Progressive surprisingly. I’m not impressed with the App. I’d almost prefer a a monitor such as What Southwire or Progressive uses for the hardwired units. But still I read something about RV Whisper tied into this unit( think it was on Hughes website. It appears to connect to your phone’s cellular a longer distance thru a setup using the RV wifi and some kind of amplifier. It appears pricy but I’d still be interested if it would enable me to stay in touch with my RV because of my dog if he’s not with us. Do you know anything about this and can it work? Final question. Is this considered an actual Autoformer which might be considered not allowed at some RV sites. ( I guess some autoformers suck in power when it’s low and this affects other campers? ) So I’m not sure if this is actually one of those and that could be an issue. Great video. Thanks a lot Larry

[@AdventureRocks]

Thanks for the kind words. I'm not familiar with the RV whisper or cellular connection mentioned, at least with the Hughes Surge/EPO. There are some stand anyone products though that will text/email you if coach gets too hot or loses power. The model featured in video doesn't boost voltage like they're more expensive units. You can't go wrong with either Progressive or Hughes. Both great choices, so whatever your preference there. Hope this helps!

[@mosehighsmith6534]

You mentioned the charger being in a hard to reach spot. Curious as the whether you replace the the charger when you upgraded to lifepo4. I’m considering a lithium upgrade and think I may need to upgrade charger to get the most benefit.

[@AdventureRocks]

Yes, you are right, that is best practice. Technically, you can keep your existing charger designed for lead acid batteries and it will usually still charge the lithium batteries, but not up to full capacity since the floating voltage is different between the two. So I've always replaced the charger with a lithium compatible version. Surprisingly, this is my first RV that I have not had to replace the charger as Jayco put in a Progressive Dynamics model that has a switch where you can toggle between lead acid and lithium batteries. So that is definitely a nice vendor choice on Jayco's part. Otherwise, in my past RVs, usually it was just a matter of accessing the cabinet where the charger was hidden or pulling out the converter/ breaker panel to get access to the charger behind it. It's not too difficult, but definitely time-consuming as you have to pull everything out and then put everything back together. Hopefully more RV brands in the future will put toggle switches so that we're not having to swap chargers when upgrading to lithium :)

[@waynemeeks175]

Is the EPO the same thing as a EMS madule?

[@AdventureRocks]

I believe so, just nomenclature difference as far as I know. Same end purpose at least...to cut off low/high voltage.

[@steveweber2436]

You mean the exposed wire next to all the other exposed wires??? lol...thanks for video.

[@jimhanty8149]

I have the 50 amp version. It has worked great for 6 years….best out there I have found…

[@adamcrouch]

If the Hughes unit were to fail and you had no power to the RV, how would you bypass the unit and connect the original wires back together? Wouldn’t you need some sort of connector to connect the wires back together?

[@AdventureRocks]

I think that would be rare, but you could use a large wire nut/splice temporarily for a super quick bypass (only temporary). However, my preferred method is simply taking the input out of surge and moving it back to the transfer switch where it originally was. The beauty of buying that extra 4-6' 50a cable mentioned and not cutting your existing 50a cable, is that you can then easily restore the wiring to circumvent the surge protector if ever needed. Just a personal preference :)

[@darrylt5300]

Looks good I have had nothing but trouble with mine white face and sometime red face with a error E6 but the wiring from shore power checks fine and using a none hard wired surge guard from South Wire the plug checks good called about 5 times no return call customer service sucks I would not recommend this item I would get a better named brand.

[@AdventureRocks]

Sorry to hear, that's frustrating. I recently got the red LED shown in this video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/hpOmlJ9rd8SgeLs