Water Logged Standard Tank - How to Diagnose and Repair

This is a short video on how to correctly diagnose and repair a water well standard tank.
Checking air volume control, leaks on top of fiberglass tanks and draining the water.

[@lwbw33]

Thank you for the video. I was able to do this to mine today because of your easy to follow instructions.

[@SvenAnderson]

THANK YOU!! This totally fixed my problem

[@ClearWaterPumpWell]

Good to hear man, Glad to help!

[@jimharnois8858]

Thanks, you saved my pump.

[@joshfal6488]

I have the same size tank as you, also by Flex-Lite but without a AVC. Tank holds pressure 40/60 and there are no leaks. Any demand for water cycles the pump within seconds. Would I follow the same process you've demonstrated here?

[@joshfal6488]

Update: I followed your process once, but didn't remove that top plug. With the faucet wide open, the cycle increased to 15 seconds, but I could still hear the tank was full of water. I tried again, but this time I removed the top plug. As it was draining I placed my hand over the plug hole and could feel the suction from all the water draining. The tank drained to completely empty. Tested again with faucet wide open and got a 1 minute and 4 seconds before the pump cycled on. Adding this to the annual to do list. Thank you for this video.

[@helihoot]

Thank you for the video but I'm confused. What was the diagnosis? Bad AVC or a leak? Isn't the AVC supposed to maintain the proper air volume?

[@ClearWaterPumpWell]

So yes the AVC had failed which caused it to stop putting air in the tank. After a few months this caused the tank to get waterlogged. I was more or less demonstrating how to check the top of a fiberglass tank for leaks as this can also be the cause.

[@jvt1226]

If the diaphragm in the air regulator ruptures it starts sucking air into what’s supposed to be a water return to the pump inlet to drain the tank to maintain water at its proper level.Mine began sucking air from the ruptured diaphragm and feeding air into my tank. The pressure built until finally the pump couldn’t force water into the tank at all.To test I clamped the hose and now no air in the water at the faucet.

[@ClearWaterPumpWell]

The air volume control can fail with a busted diaphragm and yes cause excess buildup of air in the tank. Clamping the tubing can help in the short term till you can get a replacement AVC, but dont wait too long or you could waterlogg "Too much water" your tank. If your tank becomes air logged "Too much air" then you could turn the power off to the pump and drain the excess out a faucet, then turn the pump back on. Thanks for the question!

[@oscarbarrios4692]

What are those tanks called the old style ones anyone can help me?? Very much needed!!!!

[@ClearWaterPumpWell]

Well there are not really a specific old type of tank they are relatively the same still. They did once have a standard Hydronumatic tank with a baffle in it to help with air dissolving into the water. You really only have a choice between a captive air tank or a Hydronumatic tank. The difference being one has similar to a tube inside a tire that holds the air separately from the water and one that water just fills the tank compressing the air. These tanks are used for different situations and installation to best fit, or for filtration purposes. Thanks for the comment and watching, Casey

[@TheTruckersTable]

My old well from the 70’s has a metal tank with a pressure gauge and the pump kicks off around 42psi and clicks in around 28psi. Right now I’m the summer you can see condensation on the outside of the tank and I’m guessing that’s the water line and right now it’s about half way up. Should the tank be fuller like 2/3rds full or is half ok?

[@garofalo1707]

thanks

[@jvt1226]

Wow! Thanks!Now let me go see if I can make it work. She wants a shower. Best video about pump systems for houses.

[@selador11]

An air leak is not the only way that this kind of tank loses air and becomes waterlogged. Since there is no bladder, the air that is trapped in the tank slowly diffuses into the water. Either way, same end result.

[@ClearWaterPumpWell]

Yes that is right, if the air control device is not working or not putting enough air in. The AVC has to be able to keep up with the amount of air loss. Fiberglass tanks fail at the top and at connections that cause air leaks. Fixing and or replacing a AVC will not keep a defective tank from being waterlogged. Checking for leaks after the system is refilled is the easiest way to find the leak.

[@codylewis6647]

When I check the air valve water comes out

[@LC-sw8dp]

This is our first house with well water. our water pressure dropped 75%. Now we only have 25% of water pressure. I have to take a shower longer to get myself clean. We don't know if we have air over water tank or bladder tank. We changed the switch and the gauge & same issue. We think we'll change the pressure tank but undecide But I like air over water. It gives me clear water that what I heard. Like I said our first house with well water. By look at your tank I see 3 plugs. is it the one on the top of the tank is for filling the air? The middle one for what? and the bottom one for what? I would like to buy the fiberglass tank no rust. I can't hear you well about fiberglass tank. Can you please tell me what I have to do with fiberglass tank and metal tank? By the way we have submersible pump, I think it would be the same with Jet Pump

[@ClearWaterPumpWell]

Ok Good Questions, first no matter what tank you have your pressure will be the same depending on the pressure switch setting. Only the amount of volume of water stored differs from bag to standard tanks. I do not recommend fiberglass tanks they are not the best thing since sliced bread. Fiberglass tanks fail sooner than metal tanks, and can cause your pump to fail also. Sounds more like your having a pump issue if its constantly running and wont build say over 20 psi with the valve shut the the house. You may need to pull the pump from the well and check for leak on the drop pipe, it may look like a split in the pipe if its plastic. The pump itself could be failing from sand or just old and worn out pump end. Depending on where you live you might want to get a professional to do this part, your pump could be hanging very deep and very heavy to pull yourself. Not to mention the task of removing it, if it has a pitless adapter flange. But i would check first is pressure wile the valve is closed to house and if pump can shut off at say 50-60 psi, this could mean you have a leak in your plumbing. Thanks for your comment and hope you get it working again soon.

[@kstat0077]

I am connecting an air volume control valve (disc type with plastic tubing). I have connected the valve to the side of the tank but the jet pump I have only have one port at the suction which is the drain. Can the tube be connected to the drain port to create that pressure difference needed to push air inside the bladderless tank I have, or I have yo change the pump to get one with a port above the suction?

[@ClearWaterPumpWell]

You can only connect the Air volume control to a suction port on the pump, any other port would be pressure and cause it not to work at all. You can check for suction by running the pump and hold your finger over the end of the tubing that connects to the AVC. If its not drawing a vacuum when the pump first turns on then you may have to adjust pressure down or make sure its the correct port. Typically you need the cut in pressure below 40 psi to draw a good vacuum on a shallow well and deep well pump. The regulator on a deep well pump should be backed out till its loose or the down hole pressure on pump gauge reads 40 psi running. Thanks for the question!

[@JC-so4ey]

well is going on off and where your air going in all that is there is a valve stem like in a tireso how much air do I put in ??? and do i air in when tank is dry?? or as it is fillingthank you

[@ClearWaterPumpWell]

What you have is probably a Bag or Diaphragm tank, You want to air the tank up to a little less than your cut on pressure on your pump. So if your psi is set 40-60 then you want about 35-38 psi in the tank. Before you air up the tank open and faucet and turn off the power to the pump, this will empty the water pressure so you can add air to the tank. Keep the faucet open and use a air compressor to air up to the required psi start with 28 psi if you are unsure how much to add. This will drain the water from your tank, if the tank is good the water will stop flowing out the faucet, and no air will follow. If the water stops and air comes behind at high pressure or the tank is still full and heavy your air cell is busted. The tank will need to be replaced, but for now any amount of air you can get in the tank will buy you some time till you can replace it. If you have any more questions feel free to ask have a good one and thanks for posting this question!

[@jessicabourgeois2912]

Did you shut the breaker off before draining

[@ClearWaterPumpWell]

Well in this case just pulled the plug to disconnect power. But yes turn off power at switch, plug, or breaker.

[@WmiuskUSA]

Do you have any idea what could be causing almost like a fog horn noise when we flush the toilet or run the kitchen faucet? It only happens maybe 40% of the time. I have a old galvanized tank and judging by feeling it its 75-80% full of water. The cycle time for the tank is about 30 seconds.

[@ClearWaterPumpWell]

Yes that could be your air release letting air out of the tank. This is normal and if pressure does not drop enough to make pump come on, it will let air out for a bit. The sound is a loud hissing to a whistling or horn noise. The air release is on the side of the tank in the middle way up. Thanks for the comment!

[@marksevilla7242]

good day sir how long does it take for the tank before it gets water logged? please help sir, im planning to build a bladderless pvc tank to prevent rust

[@ClearWaterPumpWell]

Depending on the diameter of the tank and the pressure, the air will dissolve into the water in a few weeks to a few months. When a tank becomes waterlogged it is no longer serving its purpose to store water. I have actually thought about building a PVC tank out of 4"-6" pipe but it's not a good idea. Mostly the problem is if there is any leak in the fittings you won't be able to fix it. Then as of now pvc is extremely expensive, it's cheaper and more standard to just get a good quality tank. I recommend a Glasslind steel tank like AO Smith. Thanks

[@paulguthrie5516]

Hi, I have an old Metal tank for my well, the the air valve with gauge in the tank mid way up is dripping water out of it when the water is being pumped back into the tank. I recently replaced the pressure switch with a Square D 20/40, which I've adjusted to come on at about 23 and shutoff at 45, my tank has about 65% - 75% of water in it, and pump cycles as it should, any help would be greatly appreciated!!!! THX for the VID!!

[@ClearWaterPumpWell]

+paul guthrie Hey Paul, depending on what type of air volume control you have will help figure out what's going on. Is it the black plastic one, or metal type? And do you have a above ground pump or a submersible pump?

[@paulguthrie5516]

The valve is a F93B-1 with a gauge as for the pump I think its submersible pump, there is about 1 ft of piping coming above the ground that has the the pump controller sitting on top of it. THX!!

[@ClearWaterPumpWell]

Yea Paul that is a Air release so you should have a submersible pump. It will let out the excess air that gets charged in the tank from the pump cycle. This type though has a brass arm that supports the float and i have seen in many different water conditions that it can fail. Say you have acidic water or lots of iron, then the arm could just rust off or clog and prevent it from releasing air. In your case if its leaking how old is it did you just change it not to long ago? If not i would get a Black Plastic Harvard HAE1 Air Release, They are the best you can buy and will last a long time.

[@paulguthrie5516]

OK Great thx!!! I have never replaced it. Air comes out of it when water is being pumped back into the Tank. I'll pick one up soon!!! Thanks again!!

[@ClearWaterPumpWell]

Alright, if its releasing air each cycle and stops but drips a little bit its working fine. Only if it keeps leaking does it need to be replaced, put a little pan down under to catch the few drops from the cycle. All valves are imperfect and can drip a little especially when releasing air. only when they keep leaking do they need to be replaced, and also dont adjust the valve to stop the leak. Closing the valve will basically turn it of and cause tank to air log, then you will get air spitting inside.