Waxed canvas/Oilcloth for Cloaks - GOOD or BAD idea????

[@LivingAnachronism]

Great video Iodo! Very infomative. Oil residue on my blanket is one of the main reasons I didn't use linseed oil for my bedroll. Oddly enough my video this week is also about waterproofed canvas and I ALSO battle the elements, had like 20 mph winds.

[@IodoDwarvenRanger]

Thanks so much :) you did well to film a clear video out in that, nice job

[@undertheblackflag5877]

I have both a waxed canvas cloak and a woollen one, during my travels in the tropics I found the waxed canvas was better during the downpours as it kept me much cooler than the woollen one did. In the colder weather though you can't beat that snug feeling of wool.

[@IodoDwarvenRanger]

Thanks for the comment :) and yep, I would agree with that

[@jonanderson3050]

I have a special rain cloak with a hood, made for me by the Elves, out of a special fabric they call N'Ylon, made in the workshops of the small village of R'Ipst-Op. I wear a woolen hood over it to deaden the sounds of the rain and keep my head and shoulders drier. It works quite well.😁 And the sounds of the rain were just fine!

[@IodoDwarvenRanger]

cool :)

[@jmoneyjoshkinion4576]

It took me to long to realize you meant "rip stop"! That is good thought.

[@chrismiksworld]

Wow, I learned a ton here

[@IodoDwarvenRanger]

glad I could help :)

[@sonny2593]

Youre coming out with some really good videos these days. Keep up the good work! Just wondering, if someone was to wear waxed canvas near a fire would the wax melt and stop it from being waterproof? Could you do a video on how you made your hood/cowl? Ive just got a huge roll of camel fur and want to make a matching cloak and hood. Have a great day!

[@IodoDwarvenRanger]

I know the modern fabric is designed not to be flammable but it is still a lot more flammable than wool, so if I'm honest I can't answer that because I've never dared wear it near a fire yep, got that, next time I make a hood I'll film the process ;)

[@another3997]

Contrary to popular belief, waxed cotton is hardly any different to non waxed cotton in terms of flammability. They both burn at similar temperatures and the rate at which they burn is pretty similar. Think about paraffin wax candles... the same basic ingredient used in waxed jackets. They don't burst in to flames when you light them. In you remove the candle wick, getting the wax to burn is difficult. Most people re-wax their coats by applying some wax, rub it all over, then use a hairdryer set to high to melt it and help it be absorbed in to the cotton. Take the heat away and it sets almost immediately.

[@southernlandsolo7839]

Great vid! Thanks very much for the info. I am looking into adding an old Oilskin Raincoat to my kit and your video has helped immensely.

[@IodoDwarvenRanger]

Thank you, happy to help :)

[@neoaliphant]

very interesting points, i had wondered about oilcloth/canvas as only emergency cloak, as in normally used as a tarp tent or gear wrap for roycroft pack contents. but if it was sudden downpour, you squat down, put your oilcloth around you and over your head, forming a small teepee with you as the pole, this keeps majority of rain off your wool, if youre not moving noise not an issue. but at least when you move off you wont be carrying the extra weight of all that water in the wool, and wet wool will still keep you warm unlike wet cotton, dry wool even better. when rangering, what is the best kit for multipurpose sleeping gear is an interesting question...

[@IodoDwarvenRanger]

really cool idea :) I guess if you were on the trail and a heavy sudden downpour came, if you had a waxed canvas tarp with you, this would be the smart thing to do

[@neoaliphant]

@@IodoDwarvenRanger i used my saxon tarp like this, quite cheap as made of calico, made occasional emergency cover without tieing up, main problem as it was waterproofed with spray, if there was any body contact water would wick through, waxed i think is better at preventing this but is heavier. but for lightweight ranger gear, oiled ( sprayed) but keep away from you flown as a tarp/tent. and if you drape over you as above in downpour, spread put a bit to minimise contact if possile. calico is a much cheaper and lighter option to canvas, just mentiond on kramers kit video hes just posted,

[@IodoDwarvenRanger]

@@neoaliphant interesting, thanks :)

[@RobertsBulgaria]

You have an Old Head on Young Shoulders - good content, keep them coming, but how do you apply your Boiled Linseed to your cloth?

[@IodoDwarvenRanger]

I personally haven't made oilcloth, but I have made a lot of waxed canvas, mainly because where I live clothing wax is cheaper and easier to get than linseed oil, but as I understand it you just paint the stuff on the canvas and leave it to dry for three weeks-ish, and make sure it's boiled linseed oil, and not just linseed oil or it will never dry, but not the sort for treating wood that has poisonous chemicals added

[@RobertsBulgaria]

@@IodoDwarvenRanger Thank you. It is difficult enough to find Linseed Oil let alone Boiled Linseed Oil in my part of Eastern Europe. I guess you wish to stay traditional, but I watched some guys waterproofing their cloth Tarps with a homemade Silicone Mix Solution.

[@IodoDwarvenRanger]

@@RobertsBulgaria Living anachronism has just tried that (watch his latest video) and it didn't work

[@RobertsBulgaria]

@@IodoDwarvenRanger Will definitely give it a look albeit, I have viewed some huge channel vids where a mixture of Silicon and White Spirit on ordinary Cotton Bed Sheets seemed to work a treat. Thank you for the Head's Up.

[@IodoDwarvenRanger]

@@RobertsBulgaria NP :)

[@FritsvanDoorn]

Very interesting stuff. Thanks a lot. 👍👍👍👍👍

[@IodoDwarvenRanger]

My pleasure!

[@DIRKMCGURDIGAN]

I make and sell a lot of waxed canvas cloaks in my shop. I can see the appeal, but I'm not personally fond of them.

[@IodoDwarvenRanger]

That's interesting, any particular reason why you're not keen on them? or is it just what I mentioned in my video?

[@DIRKMCGURDIGAN]

@@IodoDwarvenRanger Basically the same reasons. I'm from a hotter climate as well, so I need a cloak material that breathes better. Waxed canvas cloaks tend to turn into a portable sauna after a short time.

[@IodoDwarvenRanger]

@@DIRKMCGURDIGAN I don't think I've ever tried wearing waxed canvas/oilcloth in anything other than British winter, but I can imagine it wouldn't be the best idea

[@tyronelikeaboss350]

Have you tryed camel wool it has a higher oil content than other wools which should stop the water soking for in for longer then the only problem wud be importing it and cost

[@IodoDwarvenRanger]

interesting, thanks for the information

[@bigoldgrizzly]

Herdwick wool is also pretty good at shedding rain. I had a woolly hat for donkeys years and it still kept the bonce dry. Sadly it got lost on a rather boozy pub day trip to Blackpool about 45 years ago.

[@tyronelikeaboss350]

@@bigoldgrizzly thanks never heard of that wool before need to look it up

[@Origamiinsides]

Not sure if someone already asked in the comments but is there a kind of wool you like best for rain and style of cloak you like best for rain? I think you mentioned something at the end but I'll have to replay it to get the name and I'm on a bus without headphones right now so not the best time to replay it 😅. Thank you so much! Excited to watch more!

[@IodoDwarvenRanger]

apologies for the late reply, for rain the best style is probably bocksten ( kzbin.info/www/bejne/i3mtdaaebMakaK8 ) and rectangle is second best, ruana doesn't work quite so well because of lack of front coverage but they're basically all similar, and for wool I choose by feel, you don't want too thick or it will be heavy when wet, but you want dense to stop water coming through, boiled wool like wool coats are made from does well

[@2OldGeeksTalking]

Yeah, a good way to waterproof natural fabric is to give it a good scrubbing with a bar of Otter Wax. It makes it a bit darker but it works well. Thanks for covering this subject.

[@IodoDwarvenRanger]

Great tip! thank you :)

[@ericschnipke874]

Very comprehensive and well-made video - thank you for creating it!

[@alfranco918]

Well thought out video, with useful info! A few decades ago, I worked as a Derrickman on an old drilling rig for oil & gas; analog gauges, brake handle, etc.. I used a cowboy riding duster (link below to a simlar one) when it rained, because a riding duster has a slit down the back, so I could wrap the lower parts of the duster around my legs, then put on my safety harness (used as a last resort, in case of a fall from the monkey board). My wife used to treat it for me, so it was fully rainproof. The pros and cons that you mentioned are what I experienced. In my case, the fact that I could feel the cold through the coat wasn't too bad, because in the state of Oklahoma, it rains a ton during summer when it's hot, and also, I would be working for 12 hours straight, sometimes, tripping pipe into the hole or pulling pipe out of the hole. Because of the summer heat and because of stead activity for such a long time increasing my body temp., I appreciated the cold effect! Wool works well in winter--I still wear a pair of wool gloves under my work gloves during winter and I have wool base layers to wear under my work clothes, as a field engineer--but during summer I want to be able to regulate my body temperature to cool down sometimes. The heaviness of the coat was as you describe, but I was a young man, with roughneck experience prior to climbing derricks, so carrying the weight didn't phase me. When I backpack--mostly in the Sierra Nevada mountains of California--I do wear wool or modern blends from REI--esp. base layers--and I do consider weight. Kudos on a well done video! www.outbacktrading.com/products/2056-stockman-duster-coat?variant=12735512150069&currency=USD&campaign_id=21214193503&ad_id=&Google+-+Pmax+-+Remarketing&gclid=Cj0KCQjw5ea1BhC6ARIsAEOG5pzZ1vhfV18C4IScVsPiI-95db5a9kU8HRNCi3N1Y6yK8v2h7O70tdkaAsjNEALw_wcB&gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAAAAD1BzpLfD4nMpMS8D9OT4qHqfmNr1

[@TexasJack1886]

When life gives you lemons (rain), make lemonade (a video about rain gear) lol I was on the fence about making an oilcloth cloak and this definitely helped me make up my mind. I think maybe I'll just pair a wool cloak with a treated canvas hood and resolve to set up shelter in heavy downpours (or find a tavern like you said lol)

[@MrJonboy002]

Agreed, I was on the same fence. A hood just to go through the process.

[@IodoDwarvenRanger]

probably a good plan

[@knucker4931]

You didn't mention the smell. I recall my Belstaff wax jacket could clear a crowded shop in under a minute!

[@IodoDwarvenRanger]

LOL, yeah, I have waxed fabrics my self on a number of occasions, bees wax is not so bad, but paraffin wax makes quite a stink, and oil cloth amid from boiled linseed oil is actually worse the reason I don't mention the smell is after a few weeks of use it wears off (linseed oil does continue to smell a bit forever tho), what I'm wearing in that video is paraffin based and has no noticeable smell now, paraffin is a volatile solvent and will evaporate off fully in time, leaving just the wax waterproofing

[@bigoldgrizzly]

I well recall cycling to school in the early '60s in an oilcloth cape and sou-wester. Some kids used to take the 'p' a bit, but I was always the one to get there dry. With having an outside job, I have always worn wax jackets and coats but do like plenty of cotton or wool layers beneath. If you are wearing a wax jacket in anything other than very light rain, you do need a good pair of chaps on, or your legs get soaked in no time Just this last weekend I have re-waxed 3 of my jackets and jerkins. A pleasant job for a quiet evening in the workshop while listening to a good audiobook. Never really given a thought to fire hazards and regularly weld and grind steel in mine. Feeding a good bonfire lt does tend to leave them with a nice shine next day where the wax has 're-amalgamated'. Very interesting video ... and food for thought - thanks

[@taylorsteiner9273]

Right on Iodo!

[@IodoDwarvenRanger]

thank you :)

[@solb101]

Haven’t tried the poncho but wax jackets are heavy and sweaty unless it’s very cold. I much prefer my wool overcoat. I did have a cotton canvas army jacket with a removable liner. That kept me warm and dry. No oil or wax needed.

[@IodoDwarvenRanger]

a poncho or cloak is a little better for not being sweaty because it's not close fitting like a jacket, however it's still not great so I agree, wool is a better option

[@solb101]

@@IodoDwarvenRanger Will you be making a wool poncho then? It would be cooler in summer. I still use a raincoat with arm pit ventilation but thinking of a woollen option. It would have to be thick enough to repel water but also prevent overheating.

[@IodoDwarvenRanger]

@@solb101 I have plenty of wool cloaks, they are basically the same thing so probably not, the best way to keep water out while not getting to warm is to make a loose poncho/cloak from the thinnest wool with a dense weave that you can find, you can also spray it with lanolin oil to help it repel water

[@solb101]

@@IodoDwarvenRanger That’s a fantastic idea. Thankyou.

[@IodoDwarvenRanger]

@@solb101 NP :)

[@claytonanderson2383]

Awesome video! Thank you for making it

[@carlericvonkleistiii2188]

Good video! Have you considered applying lanolin to woolen cloaks to make them more water resistant? Woolen fabrics are woven from yarn spun from wool that has had the raw lanolin (smelly) lanolin removed. One can, buy purified lanolin to treat woolen goods. The lanolin is mixed with an emulsifier and water, and the item is soaked in it and allowed to dry. I don't know whether it would create grease spots on surfaces, or whether it would make the wool more flammable.

[@IodoDwarvenRanger]

Thanks for the comment :) I don't do this because the smell of lanolin attracts biting insects, not very good when you're in a damp Scottish forest full of midges, but I do buy quite coarse wool's for outer layers, that are not so well refined so they do have a little bit of the natural lanolin still left, when you buy if you get something that is boiled and dense (the less light you can see through it the better) water won't come through it very quickly, and the hood mantle gives you a double layer on your shoulders that helps prevent standing water from coming through, after 4 hours you will start to get damp underneath, but only a little bit

[@thehopperhopes6365]

@@IodoDwarvenRanger Try boiled and felted wool fabric . Only place that has it is pretty expensive , Mickelgard clothing makes outdoor clothing out of it. Only other place I have seen it is in a few places in Siberia making similar outfits. It was know as wadmal or vadmal , it was even made in the sheltland islands till the 20th century. Forgot to add , try Sonett wool care it sheep's wax + lavender oil. The lavender will keep the midges away , it's a natural insect repellent.

[@IodoDwarvenRanger]

@@thehopperhopes6365 a lot of my kit is already made from boiled wool fabrics, or very dense tweed like my ruana cloak, it does a good job of keeping the weather out

[@traveling47]

I've always been a stickler for being able to move and remain quite while in nature not to mention the more I hear the more I can enjoy nature. Great video.

[@IodoDwarvenRanger]

yep, thanks a lot for the comment :)

[@traveling47]

@@IodoDwarvenRanger Oh I just realized i acceptedly deleted half my comment... I said all that simply to say that's why I like to stick to wool over waxed or oil cloth. My bad. Keep up the great content.

[@LuxisAlukard]

I imagine it's not great for summer rain, because even though it's not warm - it's heavy and it'll make you sweat... Is it good for anything, aside from using it as a tent or a wrap for your gear?

[@IodoDwarvenRanger]

Hmmm, well, I haven't worn it in specifically hot conditions, but I did wear it to climb a mountain in Scotland and I only got sweaty on my shoulders and where my bag strap was because that's the only place the fabric on a cloak actually contacts your body. As far as uses for waxed canvas or oilcloth, I personally would only use it for bags, tarps and maybe gaiters, and never clothing, wool and thin leather (specifically brain-tan) are better alternatives

[@johnnyquest5727]

Great video. This is one of several of yours that will affect how I do things, so your expertise is much appreciated! I've actually been looking at the cost of two yards of either oilskin or waxed canvas. My idea was to have someone sew a heavy zipper in the middle and use it as a blanket/ground cover/poncho. After watching this, I'm re-thinking the project. The "Oilskin Watch coat" has become somewhat of a Must-Have among Bushcrafters because it's an old technique used to shed water. Your video sheds new light on the idea. (Excuse the pun.)

[@IodoDwarvenRanger]

Thank you :) glad I could help, just start off buying a few yards of boiled wool and see how you go What I'm wearing in this video is essentially an oilskin watchcoat with a more fantasy twist, they work for keeping dry and for bush-craft camp tasks when your not doing hiking or heavy work so you won't get sweaty, but for the ranger application where stealth/silence is required they don't do nearly so well

[@PalparaMerchants]

Great video! Did you use a stock sewing machine to stitch the canvas or did you need to use a heavy duty foot, needle, and thread?

[@IodoDwarvenRanger]

I just used the old singer machine that's inn the background of most of my video's, normal needle and foot, the fabric is waxed but it's not too thick or it would be even heavier, but be warned: working with waxed canvas coats the machine, including the needle and the spool under the plate with wax, that will then get onto the next project you sew unless you clean it up

[@MrJonboy002]

Your pattern for saving fabric… 🤯. Plus it keeps your angular aesthetic, was that maybe 3 yards of a 36” bolt?

[@IodoDwarvenRanger]

yep, I actually did it for the angular aesthetic, I measured it up for you, the rectangle in my diagram (with the cloak made to fit me) would have been 32'' x 96'' including 3'' extra space for seams and hems, so the length of the front fastening on the finished cloak ends up 29'' or a little less because of the neck hole, and the finished item will appear longer because of the diagonal length of the triangles, it probably was from a 36'' dressmaking bolt but I can't remember

[@matthewhansen5669]

All good points. What are your thoughts on a leather cloak? The weight problem would still be there, but it might mitigate some of the other negatives you listed.

[@IodoDwarvenRanger]

leather is noisy, possibly more so than waxed/oil cloth, and it's heavy, it doesn't breath, it would also be very costly and need treating with something much more often to keep it in good condition, I would guess it would be a very bad idea from a practicality point of view, sorry

[@thewanderingnord]

I love your channel! Thanks for making great videos. I am new to MER, and you have helped me greatly.

[@IodoDwarvenRanger]

You are so welcome!

[@paulkopacz5051]

I had a nice waxed jacket years ago that worked quite well in Chicago winters but I made the mistake of washing it in warm water a few times, well you guessed it, no more wax.

[@IodoDwarvenRanger]

you can reapply the wax if you still have the jacket, barbour and quite a few other clothing brands sell tins of fabric wax, you just rub it all over the jacket and use a hair dryer to melt it into the surface, and it will be as good as new

[@paulkopacz5051]

@@IodoDwarvenRanger Thanks Iodo but that jacket is long gone. I will keep that in mind if I ever get another!

[@IodoDwarvenRanger]

@@paulkopacz5051 no worries, I thought that might have been the case