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We gotta talk about PERFECTIONISM in costuming : is historically accurate sewing perfect?

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SnappyDragon

SnappyDragon

Күн бұрын

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@ragnkja
@ragnkja Жыл бұрын
I’m so glad you and other fashion historians are debunking the idea that people in the past were all perfectionists.
@SnappyDragon
@SnappyDragon Жыл бұрын
It's about time! Like another commenter said, for a while there was definitely a trend of doing the opposite, and I am happy to do my part to reverse it and make this hobby feel less scary.
@kikidevine694
@kikidevine694 Жыл бұрын
​@@SnappyDragonhear hear
@thomastheisman1751
@thomastheisman1751 Жыл бұрын
Not just fashion historians, Tod at Tod's workshop had a video on this topic about 2 months ago.
@NomadicElfling
@NomadicElfling Жыл бұрын
I used to be a sewing teacher and one thing I consistently told my students was “I’m teaching you the how and the why behind the rules so you know when to break them” and “historically adequate is perfectly fine - as long as you’re happy with the final product, we’re all good”
@SnappyDragon
@SnappyDragon Жыл бұрын
Good wisdom! Your students are lucky to have had such a grounded teacher.
@saraquill
@saraquill Жыл бұрын
In college, there were loud voices in the costuming world, insisting every period garment was tailored perfection. Then I went on a study trip to Japan. I was delighted to see a high class Kamakura (medieval) outfit on display in Kyoto. The construction stitches were visible over a meter away.
@SnappyDragon
@SnappyDragon Жыл бұрын
I definitely still hear those voices, although they are getting fainter! I wonder if me and my crummy eyesight could see those stitches too . . .
@saraquill
@saraquill Жыл бұрын
@@SnappyDragon They we’re two stitches per inch if not larger. You might be able to see them if the clothes are still on display.
@dismurrart6648
@dismurrart6648 11 ай бұрын
Kimono was made to be picked apart everytime you washed it. Tbh, I have no clue why. If you watch someone had stitch one together, it's basically 5 minutes of basting for a 6 foot seam
@heidibock1017
@heidibock1017 Жыл бұрын
OMG, THANK YOU! I took an 18thc dressmaking class through Burnley & Trowbridge over the Plague, and everyone was shockd when Brooke showed us how the extant gowns were made. Random bits! Huge stitches in lining and non-load bearing seams! The ladies who had been sewing perfectly for ages and made everything really perfect inside and out were like "I can't! It has to be perfect inside!" And I was like "yaaaaay! looks like how I normally finish stuff! I can screw up and make a little tuck/patch/random whatever and it's JUST FINE!"
@SnappyDragon
@SnappyDragon Жыл бұрын
Love B&T! I haven't taken any of their classes, but I am delighted and not at all surprised that they're so well-informed and down to earth.
@mialemon6186
@mialemon6186 11 ай бұрын
Oh man, looking at extant garments is WILD. Those things are a mess inside and I love it. The seams are ugly, the sleeves are just slapped in, it’s beautiful. And it survived for centuries so clearly it works.
@PalisDelon
@PalisDelon Жыл бұрын
I learned to sew in 4-H, and was judged for it at the county fair. Then I started doing community theater, where the advice I was given was "if you can't see it from a moving horse, you're not going to see it on the stage". That rule carried with me when I started with the SCA and even now for the things I make for everyday.
@e.urbach7780
@e.urbach7780 Жыл бұрын
"It'll never be seen from the back of a galloping horse!" Such a good phrase, and so true. I remember being told by a theater costumer that I was working for, "you're sewing too nicely! Just slam that thing through the machine so you can move to the next thing!" It was a revelation to me that even the thread color didn't need to match the fabric, for theater costumes. Any dark color thread will be perfectly fine for sewing any color (except white and pastels) fabric; any color differences won't be visible from the front row!
@lucijajenel8485
@lucijajenel8485 Жыл бұрын
I have always thought that machine stitching is historically "accurate" for any century, because if sewists from the pre-industrial age had access to sewing machines, they would have absolutely used them! Probably with lots of top stitching!
@LaRocheSews
@LaRocheSews Жыл бұрын
“Don’t let perfection be the enemy of fun” goddamn I needed to hear that 😭 I’m deep in con crunch and feel like I’m losing my mind trying to make everything perfect, when really I’m doing this for fun. I’m not competing with anything I’m working on right now, and I just want to play dress up :)
@MaidMirawyn
@MaidMirawyn Жыл бұрын
Is it for Dragon Con? Because I have to sew my last DC item today. I’m doing a zero waste adjustable skirt from The Stitchery’s channel.
@jeancolley8908
@jeancolley8908 Жыл бұрын
that goes double for con crunch - because how many times have we utterly exhausted ourselves in the week leading up to the con, that we can't even have fun at the event? I started making myself take the day before the con off. Con starts on friday? Wednesday is my last day to work on things, and Thursday is recovery and rest. I want to enjoy the events! Not be falling alseep in the panel rooms
@marandadavis9412
@marandadavis9412 Жыл бұрын
The most freeing thing for me was hearing the phrase "piecing is period". Especially when it comes to lining garments, it's not always important to have a single, giant piece of fabric to cut the panels from. (This is also why my costumes are a hobby, not a career. I would feel weird selling a garment with pieced lining or less than perfect finishing, but I'll absolutely *wear* one if I made it.)
@emmarichardson965
@emmarichardson965 Жыл бұрын
I'm reminded of Bernadette Banner's point about historical accuracy in films and how it's actually impossible to achieve--the very materials that people of the past used are often no longer available to us. The quality of linen, for example. By the end of the 19th century, the center of the fine linen trade was in Belgium. Then WW1 happened and wiped out those strains of flax, and thus the linen that could be made from them.
@catherinerw1
@catherinerw1 Жыл бұрын
If anything it's more important to finish everyday clothes well... because they need to go in the washing machine!! Historical costumes for current wearers (I'm guessing) don't need to put up with so much hard wear... (except for the small number of people who live in historical dress as daily wear). (I like doing enclosed seam finishes, they slow me down, which is a good thing, as sewing is as much a mental health practice as anything else, and slow sewing helps keep my material consumption down). And to paraphrase Sewstine... if you have electric light, good health, and have been vaccinated, you aren't being historically accurate! So don't sweat it.
@SnappyDragon
@SnappyDragon Жыл бұрын
Precisely! I feel like historical people had a much more keenly calibrated idea of just how much wear and tear a certain garment was going to take, and therefore what kind of finishing work was actually worth doing. I've done a similar thing with hand-felling all the seams on my pajamas. Machine-overcast seam allowances are fine for me most of the time, but if I am going to sleep in something? I want every bit of comfort I can get.
@catherinerw1
@catherinerw1 Жыл бұрын
@@SnappyDragon so daily wear shifts/chemises are worth immaculate finishing (as next to the skin, get lots of washing); posh frocks only need functional finishing.
@hopeofdawn
@hopeofdawn Жыл бұрын
Not a fashion historian, but correct me if I'm wrong: in certain types of garments and cultures, wasn't it typical that if you *had* to wash an entire garment, you literally had to take it apart or take off the delicate bits, so the fabric wouldn't be torn or wear at the seams? I'm thinking of traditional kimono specifically - I would assume fast sewing of simple seams would be the order of the day in such cases.
@SnappyDragon
@SnappyDragon Жыл бұрын
@catherinew1 That's my understanding, yeah! Anything that's going to be *washed* rather than spot-cleaned will need more hardcore finishing.
@SnappyDragon
@SnappyDragon Жыл бұрын
@hopeofdawn I have heard this, yes! But I know very little about those practices, so maybe someone else can weigh in.
@RCZeta919
@RCZeta919 Жыл бұрын
As an educator at a historic site, I ask myself these questions a lot! Will the general public notice or care if there's machine stitching on this 1820s dress? Probably not. But do I have a responsibility to make it as accurate as I can regardless? Great question!! I enjoy hand finishing, and I usually compromise by only using my sewing machine on seams not visible from the outside, but then again I make up for it in my personal wardrobe by being an impatient chaos gremlin. Good enough is indeed good enough.
@SnappyDragon
@SnappyDragon Жыл бұрын
I think if you're educating the public, there's a totally different set of considerations than if you're making costumes or clothes for yourself to wear personally. But yes, I doubt anyone is going to notice machine construction-- and if they're close enough to look, they're too close!
@sarahblack9333
@sarahblack9333 10 ай бұрын
Greetings, fellow chaos gremlin!
@PurelyCoincidental
@PurelyCoincidental Жыл бұрын
I used to sew professionally for theatre and had to learn quickly that perfectionism is the enemy of getting it on stage. Also, that detail that you spent SO MUCH time on, it can't even be seen from the front row. Not that I would encourage anyone to work in theatre, but it did teach a lot about efficiency and what actually matters. More recently, I had to rebuild part of a Baroque outfit. The dress (a mantua) is striped, and I made sure those pleats were perfectly arranged, because the narrow stripes make it obvious. They're held down with mediocre running stitches, though, because those aren't structural seams, and it looks completely fine-actually, I think they look better loosely stitched together, more like those pleats are just ironed in place instead of nailed down. The underskirt is a solid color, and the pleats are completely slapdashed because I was running out of time. I promise you, no one else has ever noticed, they just see the luxe-looking fabric and how it moves.
@lenabreijer1311
@lenabreijer1311 Жыл бұрын
Lol yes. I got roped into school plays when the kid was in school. (I couldn't say no to the school secretary when she said " V said you sewed really interesting things, we are so excited you are doing the costumes! " what? Wait the kid volunteered me?). I quickly learned the step back 20 feet and can you see it if they run. So different from historical competitions!
@SnappyDragon
@SnappyDragon Жыл бұрын
It seems like a lot of the skill (then and now) was in figuring out what parts of the dress were worth spending the time and energy on, and what could be done quickly and "adequately" so you had time to get the important parts right.
@anitahebert1511
@anitahebert1511 Жыл бұрын
I suspect that a lot of the "peicework" basting that was taken home by workers was actually getting distributed to kids in the family to finish. IMO that is the only way the amount of work could be possible. We are still struggling to stop exploitive labor and child labor in the fashion industry even with having sewing machine, overlockers and other tools. We may have clothing finishes of higher quality, but workers today are still being exploited like they were in the past. Machines don't make our clothes - people do. When we make clothes ourselves we can appreciate how much effort is actually involved. I choose designs that fit and flatter instead of settling for yet another poorly fitted garment made cheaply by poor people in slums. We are not different than the Victorians : just the slums are farther away now.
@dismurrart6648
@dismurrart6648 11 ай бұрын
I was a dresser at a theme park one summer. We had a director who insisted the ice show plaid poodle skirts line up perfectly. We did so, then shocker, had to alter them for the performers. The head of costuming had to step in and professionally tell her off
@frenchfriar
@frenchfriar 11 ай бұрын
My mom taught me how to sew by hand, and she had learned from her mother, who was a seamstress in the 1920's & '30's. My proudest moment was after making a shirt (on machine), my grandmother complimented me on how well it was put together. I told her it was machine stitched, and she said "it's not the machine, it's the attention to detail". But what I was proudest of was that she said that my hand-sewn buttonholes were "the best she'd ever seen", pretty high praise from a lady that had been a seamstress, and didn't drop compliments lightly. She did fuss a bit about my seam allowances being too short, but only because short allowances fray more easily. My grandmother seemed all my girl cousin's Barbie clothes, and they were some of the most fashionable Barbies you ever saw. That was over fifty years ago. My grandma was *thrilled* her youngest grandson was interested in seeing, and I got her sewing machine after she passed.
@crystalwright1504
@crystalwright1504 Жыл бұрын
I am so glad someone is saying this!! It applies to all aspects of life. I had a friend tell me that she NEVER uses a mixer to make bread. Good for her but it doesn't diminish my homemade items if I do use a machine, especially if it means that it saves my arthritic, scoliosis back from "back-breaking" work. My dad tells the story of when his grandmother spent her own hard-earned money to bring electricity into the house in the 1950s or early 60s. Her husband complained about the waste of money, because they had always managed before just fine with wood for heat and cooking, lamps, etc... She replied that she was tired of working so hard and it was HER money after all. I remind myself of this often, that our foremothers would have absolutely used every bit of modern machinery that they possibly could. I too love a beautifully finished seam(I am learning from all of you lovely creators who kindly share your talents and research) but I think that everyone should absolutely do what makes them happy. Thankyou for your wonderful videos!!
@ragnkja
@ragnkja Жыл бұрын
Even people in the past didn’t necessarily knead their bread dough by hand, especially when baking a large batch. They used different tools than us, or even their feet (wash them first!), but they knew that kneading a dough enough to develop the gluten properly is hard work and doing it by hand isn’t necessary or even the best way to get a good result.
@lenabreijer1311
@lenabreijer1311 Жыл бұрын
My mother and aunts joyfully tossed their knitting needles and irons when cheap socks and polyester cotton came on the market. According to my mother I must have been out of my mind to start knitting socks.
@crystalwright1504
@crystalwright1504 Жыл бұрын
@@ragnkja Exactly! Easier work meant that more could be accomplished.
@crystalwright1504
@crystalwright1504 Жыл бұрын
@lenabreijer1311 I love knitting, because it's for enjoyment. But if you did it out of necessity rather than enjoyment, I could absolutely understand giving it up.
@SnappyDragon
@SnappyDragon Жыл бұрын
I make exactly two kinds of bread : Challah, which gets kneaded in the stand mixer within an inch of its life (and the stand mixer's too). And, dead-nuts-easy no-knead bread which gets nothing at all done between the ingredients being combined, and being shoved in the oven. Kneading by hand is fun if I want a workout, or to blow off steam (by singing kneading shanties at the top of my lungs) . . . but not otherwise!
@debcarroll8192
@debcarroll8192 Жыл бұрын
I usually finish my seams by pinking them with pinking shears, which was a common mid century practice and the way I learned when I was a kid. Since I line dry my handmade clothes, the seams are perfectly adequate. I do French seams on sheer fabrics, but otherwise I can't be bothered to do fancy finishes.
@SnappyDragon
@SnappyDragon Жыл бұрын
LOVE pinking shears! I gotta remember to use them more, the fancy scalloped pair I own have been sitting forlorn and unloved since 2020.
@sarahr8311
@sarahr8311 Жыл бұрын
I rarely even bother finishing my seams, especially if something is lined. I've had a dresses that I wear regularly and machine wash and dry last for years that way. I honestly always thought the fuss over finished seams was a cosmetic thing, this video taught me it was practical. 🤷‍♀️
@MaidMirawyn
@MaidMirawyn Жыл бұрын
I’m a middle Eastern dancer, and French seaming is great for sheer fabrics that fray. But UGH! So much extra work! But when it’s a dance costume or veil, it has to be strong, so I suck it up and ad do the French seam. Even though it’s TWICE THE WORK. 😭
@maryeckel9682
@maryeckel9682 Жыл бұрын
My mom was a pinker! It really made a difference and wasn't fussy.
@Hair8Metal8Karen
@Hair8Metal8Karen Жыл бұрын
I love French seams. Since I learned how to do them, I use them on everything... I didn't spend all that time and energy learning them to not use them 😆 Or I'll just cover seams with binding because I stress too much about them fraying.
@kirstenpaff8946
@kirstenpaff8946 Жыл бұрын
Somehow we always forget that people in the past were still people. Just like today, some people were perfectionists and some people just needed it to be good enough.
@kkcliffy2952
@kkcliffy2952 Жыл бұрын
If I hand stitched all of my historical clothes, I wouldn't even have a whole outfit yet and my carpal tunnel would have gotten really bad much sooner than it did! I usually only hand stitch if it's going to change the construction of the garment or it's one of the few things that is easier or only possible by hand
@SnappyDragon
@SnappyDragon Жыл бұрын
Done is better than perfect :D
@2nouli
@2nouli Жыл бұрын
This reminded me of my school's parade uniforms. They are the fanciest, but have no lining, huge hems that are just serged and single folded in place, or double folded when they are too big, and all the seams have huge seam allowances with the pieces individually serged. Seems really badly done but it is actually really pratical: You wear these things once a year and every year you just adjust it quickly to fit you again, and all the pretty decorations are still in place.
@SnappyDragon
@SnappyDragon Жыл бұрын
That sounds practical indeed!
@New_Wave_Nancy
@New_Wave_Nancy Жыл бұрын
Thank you. I'm still a beginner sewist and costumer and I'm glad I decided at the outset to go for "accurate enough". I recently finished a petticoat with my first attempt at lace insertion and while the inside looks pretty bad, I'm pleased with how the outside lace insertion came out. Who the heck is going to see the inside of my petticoat??
@SnappyDragon
@SnappyDragon Жыл бұрын
Anyone who's looking at the inside of your petticoat better have other priorities (or be about to receive a kick to the head).
@dismurrart6648
@dismurrart6648 11 ай бұрын
This is really important. Veteran cosplayer here and what's funny is the costumes people have loved the most, weren't the ones I did hundreds of hours on, it was the silly quick and dirty ones. The people who are shady about xyz "bad practice" usually also never finish anything because they are too busy worrying about how they must be irl, what Bernadette banner portrays in her videos.
@nonniperkl6273
@nonniperkl6273 11 ай бұрын
You know i often think with these things, if I would whine about my uneven or large stitches to my late great grandma who saw both world wars, one of Europe’s worst civil wars, hunger and poverty in a developing nation there would be a zero percentage change that she wouldn’t dec my ass and tell me to knit a pair of socks.
@pattheplanter
@pattheplanter Жыл бұрын
This is why you should do all your historical sewing by candlelight, without your glasses and with chilled hands. Proper random mistakes and don't-care-it-workses.
@SnappyDragon
@SnappyDragon Жыл бұрын
💯💯💯
@janemacdonald3732
@janemacdonald3732 Жыл бұрын
My mum sewed for herself me my 2 elder sisters and made shirts for dad and my 3 brothers. She used cotton, cut out with pinking shears, and only seem finished adult clothing. She also knitted for us all in rotation and reused the wool from out grown jumpers. Cardigans and things brought from jumble sales. All my dresses and bousers growing up had at least 18 months to 2 years growing room in pintucks that could be unpicked before the wash and ironed out . This was in the late 50s and 60s must say she worked morning, afternoons and evenings, and the only time she sa5 without sewing or knitting in her hands was when we went to church. I love to look at photos of my childhood and admire her handiwork
@SnappyDragon
@SnappyDragon Жыл бұрын
This sounds incredibly practical! If you're sewing to clothe your family, that's exactly the sort of thing I would expect.
@hambeastdelicioso1600
@hambeastdelicioso1600 Жыл бұрын
I went through a knitting and crocheting phase and it's amazing how you get accustomed to having something you're working on when in front of the TV or just conversing. I got to the point that, if I didn't have a project going for some reason, it felt weird to have nothing to work on!
@jennarhodes2724
@jennarhodes2724 Жыл бұрын
I remember during one antique dress analysis (maybe on Abby Cox's channel), where she was looking at a formal-ish piece and the outside was very nice and detailed and the inside lining was a mess of haphazard hand stitching, and I've taken that with me ever since
@yanagelfand4337
@yanagelfand4337 11 ай бұрын
"If you use random thrifted fabrics and slap together patterns on the floor..." I have never felt so seen in the historical clothing community! (Or seen there at all.)
@SnappyDragon
@SnappyDragon 11 ай бұрын
And THIS is why I needed to make this video. Costuming community is missing out if folks don't feel seen!
@kaitlynnp582
@kaitlynnp582 Жыл бұрын
My favorite non-perfect way to sew is to use the finished edged of thrifted sheets as my hems on petticoats as often as I can. Or to use hand sewn eyelets for a lace up closure on a more modern dress because I hate installing zippers.
@SnappyDragon
@SnappyDragon Жыл бұрын
YESSSSS. I'm about to turn some old linen duvet covers from a friend into Ren Faire costumes, and I will be doing this as much as possible!
@cgoodson2010
@cgoodson2010 7 ай бұрын
Zippers are the bane of my sewing existence!!!
@jessicahart1159
@jessicahart1159 Жыл бұрын
I feel like I hold myself back from projects because I'm scared I can't do them perfectly right off that bat (and bc disabilities get in the way). I know I'm probably not the only one to feel this way so on behalf of us, thank you for saying this.
@MaidMirawyn
@MaidMirawyn Жыл бұрын
My ADHD and long Covid fatigue means that I’ve had the fabric for my Dragon Con skirt for three weeks. And I only washed it three days ago. And I haven’t even cut it. But ADHD also means crunch time=productive. I have to pack Wednesday, and this weekend is my only time to sew. Joann opens in two hours, and I’ll buy my thread and get to sewing immediately. Because I’m out of time to worry and obsess! 😂
@maryeckel9682
@maryeckel9682 Жыл бұрын
I would love to try relearning to sew, but the fear of investing money and time (and possible cat aggravation) to not be able to do it well enough to make wearable clothes has me paralyzed. I'm on SSDI and genuinely don't have money to sink like that, plus disabilities that might affect my ability to even do it. I had to give up making jewelry because of arthritis and carpal tunnel combined with vision problems.
@dismurrart6648
@dismurrart6648 11 ай бұрын
​@@maryeckel9682hey I'd encourage you to do it. A lot of my best garments were things like an old tablecloth or some repurchased bedsheets. What I tell people trying to learn though is I'd you have something you love that doesn't fit properly, start by taking it in or hemming something. You don't need the best sewing machine, just a functional one off fb marketplace. Beyond that, you really only need scissors, thread, pins, and needles.
@Chibihugs
@Chibihugs Жыл бұрын
I prefer to fell seems over serging. I know the serging is easy and effective but man I just love how felling looks.Yes, no body will see it but it looks nice to me and the seam allowance isn't flapping around inside.
@ragnkja
@ragnkja Жыл бұрын
For me it’s mostly a sensory issue. I won’t ever serge anything I’ll be wearing against my skin, but that’s because it feels too scratchy to me. Anything that isn’t worn against the skin, or that is worn by someone who isn’t as sensitive as I am, can _absolutely_ be serged and I have no issues with it, it’s just not my preference when it comes to things that go against _my_ skin.
@SnappyDragon
@SnappyDragon Жыл бұрын
I do this too, especially on stuff I am hand-sewing. My goals tend to shift with every project though, so there's still plenty of machine-overcasting that happens when I want something *done* rather than to enjoy the long process of making it.
@flightwithtools
@flightwithtools Жыл бұрын
My first historical handsewn garment had teeny-tiny perfect nearly invisible finishing stitches but as I've handsewed more, my stitches have gotten larger. Not so much because I don't want to do tiny ones, but because I've experientially learned how small stitches actually have to be to function.
@SnappyDragon
@SnappyDragon Жыл бұрын
I think that's the sort of knowledge people in the past would have had. "This is exactly how small a stitch needs to be to do its job, I will make it that small and NO SMALLER"
@lisam5744
@lisam5744 Жыл бұрын
Great video. There are so many things in life (parenting, marriage, where you live, where you work, cooking, personal faith, politics, etc...and now it would seem, sewing) that others tell you if you're not doing it their way, you're wrong. Don't give a crap what others say or tell you what to do. Live your life, find your joy and if someone tells you you're doing it wrong, smile and walk away. They ain't worth your time.
@SnappyDragon
@SnappyDragon Жыл бұрын
Hear hear!
@maryeckel9682
@maryeckel9682 Жыл бұрын
Karolina Zebrowska made a 50s gathered skirt in a totally chaotic way, and people were coming for her. But it. Looked. Great. On. And it made her happy. What else matters?
@allie9855
@allie9855 Жыл бұрын
I absolutely love this!! It reminds me that people have always been people. I recently took apart my cloak and added a lining. Did I roughly attempt to make the pieces match up? Yes. Did I take the time to have the lining stretch out? Nope. Is the hem level? Also no. But is it done and cozy and incredibly long and drapey and has a lining of my favorite color? Yes 😁
@SnappyDragon
@SnappyDragon Жыл бұрын
Sounds like it does everything you need it to, and is therefore a good cloak!
@911nmg
@911nmg Жыл бұрын
I am a very novice sewist that doesn't do historical fashion (yet, because one day I'd like to play dress up) but from "historical sewing" I've picked leaving big seam allowances so my clothes can be refitted and felling because I love handsewing. I find it really relaxing so it’s my prefered method for making small alterations on modern clothes and especially sheer ones.
@SnappyDragon
@SnappyDragon Жыл бұрын
I find hand-sewing really relaxing too! I have a current project that is literally just an excuse to do as much fussy hand-work as possible.
@911nmg
@911nmg Жыл бұрын
@@SnappyDragon my mum went on vacation a couple weeks ago. She had very long white linen pants she wanted to wear so I shortened the hem with almost invisible felling and not only did I have fun but I made them so practical for her that she wore them a bunch. It felt great 😁
@AudrinaMystique
@AudrinaMystique Жыл бұрын
I work in historic reenactment, about 1840-1890. Sometimes I just don't have time to sew outside of work, so I end up hand sewing and finishing everything between guests. It's very satisfying, I recently made a blouse that way. However, sometimes I need it YESTERDAY, like with a couple linen dresses for summer in Texas. In that case, ALL the stitches are by machine, zigzag finish and no lining. They're holding up fine.
@SnappyDragon
@SnappyDragon Жыл бұрын
Hand-sewing is GREAT for when you just need something to keep your hands busy!
@laurawilliams7782
@laurawilliams7782 Жыл бұрын
Okay i have this picture in my head of the Victorian person trying to generate enough electricity for the machine, perhaps by getting family to ride one of those electricity producing bicycles.
@SnappyDragon
@SnappyDragon Жыл бұрын
🤣🤣🤣 Or, she's complaining that the hand wheel doesn't have a crank on it for easy operation!
@vickymc9695
@vickymc9695 Жыл бұрын
Or that the mains generates a different current, and now she has to move 4 streets over to get the right one. Maybe that only happened in Britain though. Before the grid we had lots of small energy producers all doing their own thing with current and voltage. It ment you had to rebuy all your electronics if you'd moved house. It's one of the reasons that they didn't really catch on here till later.
@tigersinlondon2152
@tigersinlondon2152 11 ай бұрын
TLDR: sew your projects however you want, and mind ya business xD love this vid!!
@mikaylathefirst
@mikaylathefirst Жыл бұрын
When my grandmother made her sampler for school, her mom had her count the threads, and when her teacher saw it she stared at it and said “that…was not necessary.” 65-ish years ago we were not having that!
@annerigby4400
@annerigby4400 Жыл бұрын
Finally, someone pointing out what should be obvious: people are people and always have been, i.e. among the many women who sewed their family clothes, there would be all the spectrum from love of sewing to a total annoyance about it - nowadays, we have a choice - and I'm pretty sure the annoyed extreme would show their daughters how to sew from the moment they could hold a needle. I go through sewing phases. I try to make clothing based on patterns from a french magazine from the mid-19thC to early-20thC, so there's one size and one has to adapt it to one's measurements (yes, I do like a challenge). Needless to say, what occurred to me as I played with these patterns, was that there probably were many women like me with a basic knowledge of sewing, having to fudge their way through making clothes. As for stitching, I enjoy hand-sewing, but I use the machine for anything long or if I'm pressed for time. My productions would definitely not be of the standard of commercial clothes, but hey, they're for me, so that's fine. I tell myself that there were probably many women who did as good a job as me or worse. When I have the time, I do make lovely, perfect little stitches (it's very relaxing), and I do like a 'perfectly' stitched, neat cornered, well finished item. More often than not, I just want to see what skirt or shirt or chemise the pattern will produce (after having had me guestimate just about everything). Tons of fun. I found out recently that french seams are called english seams in french.... The lowest of the low in a sewing place - a dressmaker's shop, for instance, is called "la petite main" meaning the little hand and is the person who does all the tedious, 'no skill required' kind of work. Probably, young sewists wanting to some day have their own dress-making business and in an apprenticeship. Thanks for another interesting and well-presented video.
@dvn.pod.2023
@dvn.pod.2023 Жыл бұрын
Thank you for this video! When I first started sewing during the pandemic, there were many costubers and dress historians that pushed the idea of historical accuracy. It was so overwhelming at the time, and took some joy out of the sewing process for me in my beginning stages.
@ragnkja
@ragnkja Жыл бұрын
Fortunately, some costubers have been pushing against that, with examples of extant garments. I also like when they point out that fine, tiny hand stitching actually _wouldn’t_ have been the most accurate for the time period in question.
@SnappyDragon
@SnappyDragon Жыл бұрын
It was definitely the norm when I first started watching costuming videos, in 2018 or so. Happy that it's changing!
@josephinedykstra3383
@josephinedykstra3383 Жыл бұрын
Here's the thing: I love the sort of perfectionist handsewing detail that jerks like to enforce. I love switching out my waxed linen thread for silk on the visible seams and impeccably felled down inner seams (though I will argue about stitch length with people). This is because I try to make hardwearing historical garb that can go camping, sit on the ground, get soaked, cook over a campfire, tromp through the woods, and go into the wash afterwards. I love the original practice problem solving aspect of historical sewing. But this is me! For my garb! Fabric is expensive, I like working with Nice fabric, so I like taking my time with it and handsewing while I watch TV! When I needed a quick costume for a group thing, I pulled out the cheapest fabric that worked and the sewing machine and got to it, zigzagging the snot out of it (and still overfinishing stuff, but mostly out of habit. For anyone else, it's totally up to them! It all depends on what the goal for the garment is :) (My one high recommendation, because I ignored it when other people gave me this advice and I learned it the hard way: if you're working with linen and want your garment to last, finish the seams. How is up to you, but they do ravel, especially in the washing machine, and it's annoying when your otherwise good piece falls apart at the seam and you don't have enough fabric to fix it)
@SnappyDragon
@SnappyDragon 11 ай бұрын
Absolutely this! I love being able to have flexible goals depending on WHY I'm making something. I have a Medieval gown right now that is not only being hand-sewn, but with wool yarn instead of linen thread because it's with a Jewish wearer in mind and I wanted to see how that changed the process. Meanwhile, the plain kirtle to go under the gown? Gonna be machine-sewn with cotton, because I've hand-sewn a rectangular kirtle once and I don't need to do it again.
@myrrhfishify7743
@myrrhfishify7743 Жыл бұрын
Hey V, thank you for this. When I was in design school, I would cry on my sister's shoulder (really), because I was so anxious and exhausted, trying to perfect my drawings and finished projects. I did learn there is a time and a place for final draft, or when your seams should be hand finished. You mentioned how many historic dress sewists are perfectionistic. Finishing hand seams can be very satisfying, but can also feed a big OCD monster, which, I suspect, is very present in several historic dress YT channels. Final note, be kind to yourself, and if you are anxious about your project, find solutions that work to complete the project to the level needed, but where you can keep your sanity! After all, you show examples of finished works that have seriously rough internal finishing, but the outside is lovely (mostly). Those sewists knew where to cut corners or where to spend their time and energy. BTW, found this clip that works perfectly for this topic: kzbin.info/www/bejne/rYfShWh3jbGBaLc
@TheNerdyArcher
@TheNerdyArcher Жыл бұрын
Okay but this is *exactly* the pep talk I needed right now! Who cares if it's not perfect - I finished the thing! That's worth celebrating in and of itself :)
@Jenntully
@Jenntully Жыл бұрын
I just posted this on @shannonmakes' video on perfectionism, applies here though! I do consider myself a perfectionist, but only when it comes to my own endeavors. And even then, I know perfect doesn't actually exist. I use it to drive me to do my best and keep learning rather than to beat myself up with not achieving perfect. I hold no one but myself to my standards. Historically adequate is my mantra on anything that might be done with a historical inspo or bent, we can hypothesize all we like about how things were done 'back then' but we weren't there. We can't know for sure how accurate something was, so unless you're being judged (like, in a contest or something like that) for how close you got, who cares how you got there? So many people are just way to hung up on how other people do things. Stay in your lane and lift others up by admiring how hard they worked on that item and how well they did with it. Don't nitpick someone else's work unless they ask you to. (I do ask for it sometimes because I want to get better at the thing and I have friends that are more experienced in sewing than me.) Remember what we all learned as little kids, "If you can't say something nice, don't say anything at all".
@annearchy98
@annearchy98 Жыл бұрын
This one really spoke to me, because I struggle a lot with how bad my sewing can look but there's no way I can get better without practice no? I remembered my seam allowances from my last project, where I overlooked the seams separately after assembly and it looks baaad but it's done and I'll move on. Thanks for the reminder ❤
@SnappyDragon
@SnappyDragon Жыл бұрын
I overcast most of my seams after construction and sure, it's not pretty . . . but do we judge our modern clothes for having machine-finished seams? Nope!
@aimeemorgado8715
@aimeemorgado8715 7 ай бұрын
Love yourself, make lots, learn more, just don’t wear things inside out🌻😜. What makes you personally happy? You are the most important person to satisfy. Keep making!!❤️
@kmbjbb
@kmbjbb Жыл бұрын
Thank you for this. I have seen too many that push the "finished edges only", "it's not accurate if the stiches are too big" and more. I try new things when I know it won't confuse me. I have done both hand and machine work on single garments. My newest thing I love doing is French Seams, but even I have my limitations for them on certain garments.
@ragnkja
@ragnkja Жыл бұрын
Depending on the time period, it’s quite plausible that your stitches are too _small_ to be “historically accurate”. And machine sewing everything on the inside and only sewing the bits that will be visible by hand is perfectly good practice.
@SnappyDragon
@SnappyDragon Жыл бұрын
I just did french seams for one of the first times yesterday evening! They're super satisfying, but I did have to redo one of them because the raw edge got caught on the outside 🤣
@tippylaroux3137
@tippylaroux3137 Жыл бұрын
As a quilter there’s a saying, anyone who judges you by the back of the pieced top isn’t your friend. I’m a working mom of 2 and while I love my slow stitching sessions, I have way more fun making costumes on my sewing machine. Oh, and just a note, if you ever find yourself sewing your kid a puppy costume and you use faux fur. Spend the extra time to do French seams. Faster than felling and necessary to keep those shedding hairs encased.
@chaoticpoodle
@chaoticpoodle Жыл бұрын
Three cheers for preventing fraying with the big zig zag stitch!
@SnappyDragon
@SnappyDragon Жыл бұрын
Hip hip hurrah!
@ragnkja
@ragnkja Жыл бұрын
Hip hip hurrah!
@nancyholcombe8030
@nancyholcombe8030 Жыл бұрын
The very fact that we now buy cheaply made, inexpensive clothing to wear in our daily lives is proof enough that perfection is beautiful to be sure, but enjoyment of the garment, no matter how well made, is far more important! Have fun y'all!
@SnappyDragon
@SnappyDragon Жыл бұрын
Much as I dislike fast fashion, there are reasons it came to exist!
@nancyholcombe8030
@nancyholcombe8030 Жыл бұрын
@@SnappyDragon yeah and now I have to teach all of my younger friends how to sew on buttons and tack up hems! 😆
@nancyholcombe8030
@nancyholcombe8030 Жыл бұрын
@@SnappyDragon yeah and now I have to teach all of my younger friends how to sew on buttons and tack up hems!😆 Cheap has its price!
@MWPNW
@MWPNW Жыл бұрын
I'll fuss with French seams and hand finishing for stuff that I plan to wear (and wash!) until it wears out. For rough drafts, kids stuff and costumes, it's either raw or pinked unless it will show from the outside. Although, it is easier to practice new seam finishes on kids stuff as they have such shorter seams. My mom NEVER finished her seams and those 15 year old pj pants are going strong.
@SnappyDragon
@SnappyDragon Жыл бұрын
Kind of similar to how it worked historically! Chemise seams would need to be strongly finished to survive rough laundering, but a fine outer dress that would never be *washed* that way, it didn't matter
@donnabaeten1185
@donnabaeten1185 11 ай бұрын
My first quilt(an anniversary gift for my parents) was completely handsewn, even the binding. The next three were for my children and were hand-pieced and quilted, but those big seams were machine sewn due to time concerns. Any future quilts will depend on the state of my hands and eyes! Proud of each of them.
@ReneePowell
@ReneePowell Жыл бұрын
I finish my seams well enough for the fabric and not much beyond that. I’m still learning what I’m doing. That said I just made a Chanel-style French jacket and skirt with an absurd amount of hand finishing on the lining seams and edging, which I documented on my Instagram. I’m now working on 100% machine sewn projects for a little while while I get over the temporary burnout on hand sewing.
@SnappyDragon
@SnappyDragon Жыл бұрын
That sound so cool! There are definitely projects like that where I'll do really intense hand-finishing just to find out what it's like-- please see me hand-sewing medieval dresses with wool yarn rather than linen thread to avoid shaatnez.
@rebeccadonkeyknot4795
@rebeccadonkeyknot4795 10 ай бұрын
I usually hand fell seams, but that's just because I enjoy it and really like how it looks. I'm a perfectionist in general, not just when I'm sewing
@lynn858
@lynn858 Жыл бұрын
I made myself a "wearable mockup" of some around the house boxers with pockets. I tried a pattern I'd picked up for 25cents, to get an idea of how to work with commercial patterns. When I put them on I walked out and informed my roommate "I think I just failed home-economics". The seam finishing is trash. But they have pockets. Which neither of our home-ec boxers from "back in the day had". Would better seam finishes improve laundering? Definitely! But if your seams cross each other... and both are required to check the fit, at what point on a wearable mockup does it make sense to properly finish them? ... Exactly.
@SnappyDragon
@SnappyDragon Жыл бұрын
. . . that sounds like winning Home Ec to me!
@phillipallen3259
@phillipallen3259 Жыл бұрын
What you have said here is absolutely perfect. Except for the elite, people in the past have always been about functionality over perfection. This applies to not just garments but tools and weapons as well. We as modern people tend to want everything perfect but historically speaking, almost nothing was perfect. Thank you for a wonderful video!
@sarahball1683
@sarahball1683 Жыл бұрын
Checking out existing ready-made garments is a good bit of advice. Once I really started looking I realize just how many of those "imperfections" I worry about in my own sewing are there and rarely noticed by me in my ready made garments. I hate sewing stretching knits (especially necklines! ugh, so hard to make them lay flat) so I started buying slightly over sized shirts from second hand shops and then altering them to fit. Cut or seam rip side seams and sleeves and leave the neckline + shoulders intact. I'm repeatedly surprised once I have things disassembled and layout of my go-to T-shirt pattern on top to find just how wonky the originals are. Lots of wildly unsymmetrical pieces (and not just from wear and stretching--some second hand finds still had their original store tags on them). Side seam over an inch longer on one side, one sleeve way tighter than the other, not-so-straight seams, and so many loose threads.
@RandomAFP
@RandomAFP Жыл бұрын
For me, the making is the fun part, and that includes doing things how they would have been done at the time, as far as possible. Most of the wool Viking kit I have is entirely hand-sewn with thread I spun myself, usually on a spindle. I'm currently in the middle of building a warp-weighted loom because I want to do sheep-to-garment for a low-status Viking kyrtle and I want to nålebind a pair of socks to the same gauge as the York Sock. I also want to make an outfit on each of my antique sewing machines suitable for around the year of manufacture, and there I'm looking forward to finding a use for every one of the fancy feet that came with them. I own an overlocker but I hate using it for anything but quick-and-dirty cosplay because sometimes the way overlocked seams feel gives me the heebs. I have to wear my purchased pyjama bottoms inside out because of it when that happens, so rather than overlocking something I'll wear multiple times, I'd rather leave the seams unfinished for a wearing or two and finish them properly when I have time. Mostly, it's that I like having had the experience of doing it the way they would have had to do it and it makes me value the garment more. But if it's not fun for me, I won't do it - I don't like the way unspun flax feels, so I don't spin it. Even if I'll still sew it by hand, I'm more than happy to buy linen thread and fabric and that hand-woven kyrtle will be worn over a linen layer that may well be machine sewn. And I'll probably have modern knickers on under that. Do I want to spin and weave *all* the cloth for our Viking kit? Hell no! I have a job and the internet and brightly-dyed fibre I want to spin up to knit with and so on. I want to do it at least *once*, but my weaving will probably be terrible (hence low-status kit) and I'm pretty sure I'll make a hash of using those fancy feet as well, but the original garments I have are pretty iffy in places, and it's about having done it, not making it perfect. Also with the Viking kit, most of what I've got planned is high-status, and as I understand it, chances are such women had people to do the basic spinning and weaving *for* them, so there I think it's *more* accurate for me to buy the fabric and thread and to put my effort into the fancy - and more enjoyable - things like the tablet weaving, which the women would have used as a way of showing off what they had the skill - and time - to do.
@RandomAFP
@RandomAFP Жыл бұрын
side note: It makes sense for us to have both low and high status kit for reenactment because different tasks go with them. If my fella's dressed in high-status kit, it doesn't make sense for him to be doing the cooking (and nobody wants me doing it!) and it doesn't make sense for me to be weaving basic cloth if I'm wearing high-status kit, just as it doesn't make sense for him to take a sword onto the battlefield if he's wearing low-status kit or for me to be doing fancy tablet-weaving (or just sitting around doing nothing much) if I am. So plan is for us to have both, so that we can slip into the tent to change clothes to suit what we need/want to be doing at the time. I'm also planning a nun, so I can wander about looking generally disapproving of everything, which is what my face does anyway when I get peopled out, so might as well make clothes to go with it!
@ninaschust3694
@ninaschust3694 Жыл бұрын
I really love your summary at the end. Sewing SHOULD be fun and bring us joy ❤.
@SnappyDragon
@SnappyDragon Жыл бұрын
thank you! I maaaaaybe have a lot of feelings about people who ruin others' enjoyment of their own projects . . .
@aolster3198
@aolster3198 11 ай бұрын
Another factor was undergarments. If you're wearing a chemise, a corset, a bodice cover, a full slip, then the lack of smooth finishing is not going to affect wear or comfort.
@AJansenNL
@AJansenNL Жыл бұрын
I just made myself a Grecian dress. Or should I say 'Grecian'? It's made out of a cotton jersey that I dyed a dark green. Historically soooo inaccurate. And of course I machine sewed it. No finishing of edges. But boy, am I happy with it! Because I'm mainly bedbound and now I get to wear comfy history bounding pajamas!
@SnappyDragon
@SnappyDragon Жыл бұрын
[high-fives in dark green cotton jersey dress!]
@lavendershadows4370
@lavendershadows4370 11 ай бұрын
That's so amazing! Especially battling the jersey curl~ I hem fabric to wear as peplos/chiton and no one cares about the machine stitches or how it's a little wiggly, hehe. Most people are fascinated about the pins and how simple the garment is lol
@blazertundra
@blazertundra 11 ай бұрын
My two favorite "good enough" finishes: using raw selvedge on the center back zipper seam (it has to be perfectly straight for the zipper anyway), and my "impatient woman's French seam" where I turn the seam allowances in on each other, iron generously, and zig-zag stitch over the top of it all.
@FreyasArts
@FreyasArts 11 ай бұрын
Hahaha that gag with the victorian seamstress snitching your machine was gold 😂😂😂
@SnappyDragon
@SnappyDragon 11 ай бұрын
SO much fun to film 🤣
@jessiebrown6084
@jessiebrown6084 Жыл бұрын
I started sewing before I could read thanks to my mother & grandmother. To give you a sense of ages, I was born in 1964, my mother in 1922 and my grandmother in 1887. I learned on a sewing machine and it was very much treated the same as learning how to use a washing machine or how to cook. I do renaissance faires as a hobby and firmly believe the Elizabethans were a very practical people. If they'd had sewing machines they would have used them. My favorite "not supposed to be done that way" trick? For any top or shirt I sew just the shoulders together and lay the front and back out flat, then fit in the still flat sleeves. Once they are in I fold it in half at the shoulders and sew armpit to wrist and armpit to hem on both sides. It is much simpler than trying to ease in a constructed sleeve into an armhole.
@ragdollrose2687
@ragdollrose2687 Жыл бұрын
I really appreciate this discussion, even outside of historical costuming. I grew up around sewers, and I really wanted to learn. So I started an extra curricular class when I was in 7th grade. But I dropped out before even finishing our first project cause the teacher would make me redo every stitch that was a bit crooked. It discouraged me for years, until I started learning the way that was right for me. Now, I give textile art classes at a local non-profit and I keep this experience in mind everytime: we don't have to be perfect, otherwise we won't get anywhere and we can't learn without trying!
@morganaabbey526
@morganaabbey526 Жыл бұрын
I have made lots of historical clothes for myself and others. My hand sewing is mostly overcasting eyelets and attaching hooks and eyes. Machine sewing all the way.
@MaidMirawyn
@MaidMirawyn Жыл бұрын
When the p@nd3mic hit and JordanCon 2020 had to be canceled, I decided to learn blind hemstitch and hand-sew the shawl for my Victorian Tinker costume. After all, I was going to have a whole year instead of a couple of weeks. I did it, and it took forever. And it looks good. I had the time. And now I can hand-sew a blind hemstitch if I must. Unless I really NEED to do it, you can bet I machine stitch everything. But in the event it’s impractical to machine-sew something, now I can do it by hand and have it look good.
@SnappyDragon
@SnappyDragon Жыл бұрын
It's good to have the whole range of skills, so you can *decide* what suits your goals best!
@nixhixx
@nixhixx Жыл бұрын
Retro Claude and Shannon Makes both made anti-perfection videos this week. It's a theme we should all pay attention to!
@lavendershadows4370
@lavendershadows4370 11 ай бұрын
I recently got back into sewing and although I already learned these lessons of not chasing perfectionism, I'm glad this video exists to quell any doubts others may have. People are more impressed that you made something!
@HouseHooligan
@HouseHooligan Жыл бұрын
Yesssss we love aggressively supportive content!
@ellenhubbardoldenburg6033
@ellenhubbardoldenburg6033 Жыл бұрын
THANK YOU!! I am so frequently stymied by my perfectionism, although believe me, nothing is hand stitched except the occasional hem. I love that you call this “playing dress-up” and that this hobby is meant to be fun, joyful. I needed to hear this so badly today! Thank you.
@midworldcrafting4958
@midworldcrafting4958 Жыл бұрын
Thank you so much for bringing up alterations! As someone whose day job used to be alterations, bag linings are one of the banes of my existence! So much harder to do a seam repair on a suit coat when the only way in is through a little lining seam on the arm. With my own sewing, I will flatline of course, but I don't put separate linings into anything if I can help it. Facings are fine, and are sewn with effing gigantic stitches unless the area will experience a lot of friction.
@maryeckel9682
@maryeckel9682 Жыл бұрын
I think if you're a perfectionist and those little details make you happy, go for it. But don't expect others to do it your way.
@sydneysotor3664
@sydneysotor3664 7 ай бұрын
Yours is one of several sites mentioned by Shannon Makes in her episode about perfectionism. I'm so glad I checked you out--love all you rcomments. In my teens, I sewed my clothes, in my 20s I sewed clothes for my husband and kids. Then I moved on to other needlecrafts, primarily crocheting. About 20 yrs ago, when I retired, I finally had time to join a quilting group making quilts for charity. I quickly became a self taught scrap quilter. We were assured that "misakes "Make it our own" or that the "quilt police" aren't coming . I'm seldom led to redo something I'm making for charity cause I realize that a non-quilter will probably NEVER see my lack of perfection as long as the item is well made enough to stay together. Thank you for your video on Perfectionism. I feel so much better about my own lack of perfection.
@fritzmasten7675
@fritzmasten7675 11 ай бұрын
I love that you have the same $80 brother home sew machine that I use professionally to make clothes for TV and Broadway. Anyone who needs the clothes built with coture accuracy is just trying to feed their ego
@SnappyDragon
@SnappyDragon 11 ай бұрын
I *LOVE* this machine! Early in my costuming journey I sewed a leather doublet with it because I didn't know that wasn't supposed to be possible. And, ah, it worked. Gonna do another one soon.
@angelakarl9104
@angelakarl9104 Жыл бұрын
"This is a beautiful prototype, I love it" she whispered as she disregared finishing the seams
@bdm483
@bdm483 Жыл бұрын
Thanks for this. I find sewing quite intimidating. I wasn't really exposed to it growing up, and my visual spatial awareness and motor skills are pretty rubbish, so it's quite challenging to learn. Lots of sewing seams together after spending way too long making sure it's right, and then still getting the piecing together just inventively and surprisingly wrong. Getting better at it, but I don't think I'll ever be comfortable with sewing, like I am with cooking Dipping in to some of the sewing communities can definitely be a source of the excitement to keep going, and it's always a pleasure to see any textile artist doing what they love. Overwhelmingly, people are lovely and very welcoming. But it can also be a bit demoralising when it feels like you have this huge pile of lingo and skills that you're not even sure where to start with it. Like trying to read a book when you know the alphabet, but are yet to learn spelling or grammar
@MaidMirawyn
@MaidMirawyn Жыл бұрын
I love Sewing for Dummies. I learned to sew as a kid, but it was slapdash and piecemeal and my ADHD brain likes info in a methodical manner. It’s a great book I still use as a reference, even though I’ve been sewing off and on for decades.
@bdm483
@bdm483 Жыл бұрын
@@MaidMirawyn Ooh thank you! This is a great help, I will definitely get my hands on a copy
@Rozewolf
@Rozewolf Жыл бұрын
I've been sewing for umm... 53 years. I started by making clothes for my dolls. Since then, I've made clothes and all kinds of things for family, customers, and myself. I'm in the SCA, and have learned historical patterning, sewing, etc. The best thing I've learned is the 10 ft rule. If it looks good from that distance, who cares?!!! Granted, I have made 100% hand sewn garments. I enjoy hand sewing for certain things. Other times, I thread up my machine and knock things out in no time. I tailor my sewing perfection to the client or purpose. And, you're right. It's about the FUN. Now to share this and let all the Garb Grinches have an aneurysm.
@jr3wx
@jr3wx 11 ай бұрын
Finishing seams and other inside-the-garment tidiness is really important to me because if something's itchy or awkwardly bulky I won't be able to think about anything else all day, but this video is such a great reminder that the ways I construct good-feeling garment insides don't necessarily have to be good-looking as well. Freedom! Also: that modern dress is so so cute!
@hambeastdelicioso1600
@hambeastdelicioso1600 Жыл бұрын
My husband and I are in the process of going through and disposing of two storage units of his family's stuff. As well as the aftermath of losing my father and much of his household stuff that found its way into our house and garage. We found husband's grandmother's fabric stash during the Covid lockdown and it included some abundant but low quality linen. I really wanted to try out a linen pillowcase but my sewing machine has been inaccessible for a fair few years now. After watching a few hand sewing videos, I went for it and now I have a yellow linen pillowcase that took me a week to make by working on it while watching TV in the evenings. If I'd waited for my machine to reappear, I still wouldn't have my pillowcase which I love and plan to make some more of. I'd try doing sheets, but the fabric is vintage and only 36" wide. I'm thinking of making a lightweight summer "blanket" or coverlet out of it, though.
@fryingpan552
@fryingpan552 11 ай бұрын
I do not enjoy hand sewing and I use my sewing machine for as much as possible, I was absolutely THRILLED when I figured out how to sew on 2-hole and 4-hole buttons using my machine...it actually got me to finally re-attach all my loose and escaped buttons to multiple garments that I had stopped wearing. Side note: it bugs me when people say "I don't know how to sew. I can't even attach a button!" My first thought is usually that I do know how to sew, but I'm lousy at buttons 🤷‍♀
@Caradepato
@Caradepato 11 ай бұрын
This brings me to something that used to annoy me considerably. I am a larper and I've been for all my adult life, but I still remember a conversation I had in my first larp. We were sitting around the fire having a meal (my character was a bard so I travelled around many different camps) and someone started criticizing the fact that my overtunic was woven out of very thick wool (knitting wool essentially - this was in Sweden as as someone who grew up in Portugal I found the Swedish climate very cold) and had visible machine stitching. I just remembered saying that we were currently eating potatoes and there are orcs over there if you want to complain about historicity. I have been working for a while to try to bring Larping to Portugal and part of what I am trying very hard to create is a welcoming experience for people who are entering the hobby and learning how to sew - i don't want people to be discouraged and to give up on something that brings them joy - its like you said, the point is we are here to have fun.
@fritzmasten7675
@fritzmasten7675 11 ай бұрын
A friend owns two Balenciaga coture dresses from the early 60s. The seam allowance is pinked and raw. There are NO LININGS. Lining wasn't done until quite recently.
@SnappyDragon
@SnappyDragon 11 ай бұрын
It makes total sense! Interlining/flatlining has a structural purpose, but bag lining just takes up a lot of extra fabric and labor. So if that fabric is costly and you don't have a reason to do it . . . why bother?
@ashleya9353
@ashleya9353 Жыл бұрын
Great video. I have handsewn whole garments before and I genuinely find the act of hand sewing really useful as a practice if you want to understand historical costuming (the pre-sewing machine construction paradigm really is different and fascinating), but I'm also a realist with a family and a job and not nearly enough time for everything so of course I still use my machine and its blind hem stitch pretty much 95% of the time. I think part of it might be too that I've been playing the history dress up game long enough that now that I have enough to get by, I'm happy to do new things for as long as they need to take, and not worrying about always having a new shiny thing to wear by a specific deadline. It makes me much happier with the work regardless of if I machine sew, hand sew, or do a combination of both that I'm making something that won't fall apart so that I can enjoy wearing it for ages afterward.
@SnappyDragon
@SnappyDragon Жыл бұрын
There are so many things that are just easier by hand, and definitely some seams I'll do that way rather than struggle to feed them through the machine.
@charischannah
@charischannah Жыл бұрын
My grandma, who taught me to sew, preferred to use her machine and serger for everything possible. She was able to sew for enjoyment, but she also definitely sewed for necessity, and it showed--when possible, she even sewed the buttons on by machine. I learned how to stitch in the ditch for linings from her, and only switched to hand-finishing them as an adult when I realized I preferred that. I enjoy doing the hand-finishing on garments, and tend to use my machine for the long seams or for sewing knits, although I definitely use my serger to overlock edges when that's more convenient than doing it by hand.
@SabethRavenwing
@SabethRavenwing Жыл бұрын
I have a cotton flannel nightie I handsewn as a young teen that I still wear today over 25 years later. It was cut on the biased as a project to learn about grainline. The seams are unfinished, maybe 4 stitches to a inch on a running backstitch or whipstitch on most of the garment. The only spot I did tiny backstitches was in the under arms. It is probably the most worn garment out of everything I own. Outside of adjusting the straps and replacing elastic for size changes, it hasn't needed to be repaired. At this point as ratty as the fabric has gotten I have kept it around because It was comfortable, my first truly wearable garment, and it is a reminder that a garment don't need to be perfect to be awesome.
@SnappyDragon
@SnappyDragon 11 ай бұрын
Ahhh that's so cool! Makes me wonder what my first makes are going to look like in 25 years 🤣
@Ora_Lin
@Ora_Lin Жыл бұрын
My favorite “not perfect” sewing technique is completely unfinished seam allowances…a 1/2” of linen or cotton (with a normal to tight weave) realistically doesn’t fray to the point of the garment falling apart, even with repeated machine washing. I love a clean finish but sometimes time and/or energy does not allow. Thank you for this video!
@meganrogers3571
@meganrogers3571 Жыл бұрын
I am not a sewer (maybe someday!), although I am a very amateur knitter with a project that has been left unfinished for /months/ because I'm afraid of seaming it up wrong (also, I'm a recovering perfectionist lol). But your comparison to cooking made perfect sense. If I'm making a weeknight dinner for my family, so course I'm going to look for opportunities to cut corners or use store-bought in the effort to get the meal on the table. But for a holiday meal, I'll put in extra effort and maybe make more things from scratch (for Thanksgiving, for example, I like to make my own croutons for the stuffing).
@SnappyDragon
@SnappyDragon Жыл бұрын
It's such a good analogy! I hope you're able to get that knitting project out of the UFO pile. My impression with knitting is that as long as you catch mistakes quickly and/or don't cut anything, they are usually fixable?
@paularies3282
@paularies3282 Ай бұрын
I've been blessed to be given extant study pieces and worked in historic costume collections and visited museums all over the world. Like today there were all skill levels. If I'm sewing for myself it's just gotta get done. If I'm being paid that's a different story. The diaries of women running their homes just blew through their mending because they were BUSY! So makes sense to just get it done!
@Skirt553
@Skirt553 Жыл бұрын
I love, love, love doing machine sewing. it is fast, and often easier than hand-sewing.
@marieugorek5917
@marieugorek5917 Жыл бұрын
I find a great deal of joy in hand-stitched buttonholes and seams enclosed with invisible stitches... but if there is ANY way to avoid ironing in the middle of a project, I will find that way. I have pressed seams between plastic storage boxes and set them next to the tub while I showered to avoid dragging out the ironing board.
@SnappyDragon
@SnappyDragon Жыл бұрын
🤣🤣🤣 one of the reasons I love handsewing linen : i can just finger-press instead of ironing! You want me to get up off the couch in the middle of my evening? NOPE.
@FlybyStardancer
@FlybyStardancer Жыл бұрын
Love it!! This is also my justification for anachronistic prints that I’ve bought to make stuff with. Are they what was used? No. Would they have been used if people in the past had access to them? Yep!! 😂
@SnappyDragon
@SnappyDragon Жыл бұрын
Anyone who says they wouldn't, I challenge them to take a look at what people in the 1860s did the MOMENT aniline dyes became available.
@aShadeBolder
@aShadeBolder Жыл бұрын
this feels good. thanks for giving me your blessing to sew well or to sew badly, according to my personal needs. my current incorrect-but-joyful sewing finishing: I bought a quilter's jellyroll (a lot of narrow strips of fabric, selvage to selvage by I think 4"). I planned to make something for my ex, but that never happened. I've been sewing them into a thing like a log cabin quilt, with the plan of making an outrageous rainbow skirt out of the pieces. now, I am not a quilter. I *think* quilters leave the edges of the quilt tops raw (but that's OK because it's all going to be inside anyway). I don't want a quilted skirt, but nor do I have the patience to...what? french seam every single strip? bind the seams? hand-fell them? whatever I'm "supposed to do" to make a quilt topper function as a single layer garment sounds like a workload that would paralyse me into never doing it. ...so I've been pressing them open and zigzaging over the join. the seam allowance extends beyond my zigzaging and is oh so very visible on the front. but I am confident that I can safely wash this monstrosity without it falling apart and (most importantly) I'm actually doing the project and enjoying it. so I'm going to continue with the thing that I am certain would horrify any serious quilter.
@AragornElessar
@AragornElessar Жыл бұрын
My favourite "improper" sewing technique is using dental floss for my patch jeans. I also just tucked the end of a dart in that stuck out instead of trying to piece together how to do it "properly".
@SnappyDragon
@SnappyDragon Жыл бұрын
Dental floss?! Do tell!
@Nessi-dances
@Nessi-dances Жыл бұрын
Wonderful video as always! I'm personally a big fan of the "you know what, F it!" phrase. I want the finished object and if it bugs me later I'll fix it. I cut things on the floor and after getting everything pinned, I stop for a cup of tea and some swearing before going back in.
@SnappyDragon
@SnappyDragon Жыл бұрын
The swearing is, of course, the secret ingredient.
@Nessi-dances
@Nessi-dances Жыл бұрын
@@SnappyDragon Absolutely key! 😄
@fluffydragon84
@fluffydragon84 Жыл бұрын
Thank you for this video! I've heard Adam Savage use the 'perfect is the enemy of done' many times and I love it here too. The project I'm currently working on is doing hand embroidery on fabric that I bought from Spoonflower (fan-designed) for Bespin Leia from ESB. This would be really difficult without the fan-made option sold there AND being able to order the printed fabric with lines to follow, in the right weight and color too! Back when I originally contemplated doing this costume, the only way to get the embroidery design was from someone who traced it on the forums, and then I'd have to print it, tape the sheets together and hand-trace it, and hope to gods it got onto slippery fabric correctly. I wonder if the Star Wars universe has sewists or if everything is done by droids/machines.
@SnappyDragon
@SnappyDragon Жыл бұрын
Oooh that's a question! I wonder what Star Wars sewing machines would look like . . .
@anthonygeorge3689
@anthonygeorge3689 Жыл бұрын
I'm that one masochist who enjoys teeny tiny hand stitching, crocheting miles of lace for garments, being generlaly meticulous and ultra precise. I went around my ass to get to the kettle to hunt down and acquire a 130 year old Cadorette CPW to learn how to spin. I also like taking thrifted $10 wedding gowns and crinolines and cobbling them into other projects. I'm taking old family quilting projects and turning them into quilted coats and petticoats. Like I said over on Shannon Makes' vid/post, I find that the drive for excellence gives me the enjoyment I wouldn't otherwise have without it. But that I teach my students to embrace their work no matter what it looks like, to be proud of what they've achieved, not what they think they should have achieved. (Yes, Im here from Shannon's vid 🥳)
@SnappyDragon
@SnappyDragon Жыл бұрын
Hey, I also love teeny tiny hand stitches! But those are for the projects where I want to sit and handsew to relax, not where I want to Make A Finished Thing On A Timeline.
@anthonygeorge3689
@anthonygeorge3689 Жыл бұрын
@@SnappyDragon Valid!! I stopped taking on projects with hard deadlines after making my bestie's wedding dress last year 😅 I finished the stitching approximately 2 hours before the ceromony.
@MarquisdeL3
@MarquisdeL3 Жыл бұрын
I'll frequently "finish" interior seams by running fray check down the edge. These are cosplays, so they're not getting super heavily worn, that's how I can get away with it.
@SnappyDragon
@SnappyDragon Жыл бұрын
Fray check is MAGICAL. And it's not like historical dressmakers never used similar stuff! I remember a really cool video about a Chinese seam-finishing paste made from starch.
@saraparlier
@saraparlier Жыл бұрын
I LOVE THIS SO MUCH! After working with heirloom children's garments for many years - including tutoring under one of the best restorers in the area (150 year old christening gown that's been stored in an attic that you'd like to use in your own child's christening in 3 weeks? No problem!) - this speaks to me. This same woman - while hand restoring French hand-sewn laces - and creating bullion roses that would make your eyes water - TAUGHT our French-handsewing by machine class. Why? Because while it's an amazing art (that she also taught by hand for the record) to be able to hand-finish all of these things, she'd just as soon see her full-time-working, Hands-always-full-but-commited-to-sewing clients making pieces they loved and were proud of and NOT AFRAID TO USE! I love the call for the community to take off the self-judgy pants, do what works in that time or that moment, continue to learn and grow and HAVE FUN!!!
@SnappyDragon
@SnappyDragon Жыл бұрын
"Handsewing by machine" class? *Tell me more*
@saraparlier
@saraparlier Жыл бұрын
@@SnappyDragon what I remember most was about lace insertion and how to piece together the laces, and then insert them but covered all of French seaming etc (not hand-felling obviously) and a lot of the stitch length and tension requirements to sew these fabrics by machine without destroying them! I need to try to go find my notes - if I can I’ll gladly get them your way!
@damdamfino
@damdamfino 11 ай бұрын
As a hand knitter, I will reknit and reknit something to make it “right”. I will ALSO leave my ends unwoven in and just hanging loose because I just spent 2 months making a single sweater and I want to wear it NOW. Not one will see my unfinished inside. I’m sure if you look at a lot of hand knit garments, you might find the same situation. 😅
@miaththered
@miaththered Жыл бұрын
I've complained in the comments before that I'm not a great seamstress so thanks for the reminder that perfection is the enemy of good enough.
@acatinlace
@acatinlace 11 ай бұрын
this was so helpful to hear! i've been agonizing about a dress i'm making. i've been into watching historical costuming/history bound youtube lately. for some reason i thought i HAD to do it all the "right way". now i know i need to do it my way: pretty, good enough, and done!
@SnappyDragon
@SnappyDragon 11 ай бұрын
I love historical sewing youtube, but we do have a bit of a perfectionism problem 😅
@kburok5651
@kburok5651 11 ай бұрын
As I sit switching between fake french-seaming, overcasting, and like... mattress stitching? the laughably frayed, huge seam allowances of my rectangular construction, thrifted-cotton-flannel tunic with thrifted thread and lace insets like it's 1909, I am so grateful that you continue creating grounding, historical, and affirming sewing content. Absolute mensch.
@SnappyDragon
@SnappyDragon 11 ай бұрын
thank you 💚
@Ella-iv1fk
@Ella-iv1fk Жыл бұрын
I keep finishing skirts and then deciding I got the waist wrong, I should start making my seams, and waistbands, easier to alter.
@catherinejustcatherine1778
@catherinejustcatherine1778 Жыл бұрын
PS My favorite "radical"/contrarian sewing technique is to use a basting stitch as my joining stitch, and, if I am sewing "housework or yardwork" clothes, especially out of knit, I usually leave raw edges, both on the inside & outside of the garment.
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