We're Doing The Clutch Adjustment On My Harley Davidson Panhead Again!

It was slipping under heavy throttling! Had to address the issue again. Here's how...

[@leibstandartejager8582]

I don’t think you are ever boring. Teaching us all the true way of general maintenance. We ❤️ U. 🇨🇦

[@pacificmike9501]

Thank you. But I do bore myself sometimes.

[@dannywright8021]

Love your videos Mike very good one I ride a fatboy I need clutch work lol

[@Road-Worthy]

Life gets in the way.. you're voice is so distinct. I walked by you a couple times in separate rooms at the gnrs every time I heard your voice I stopped and told the wife hey I watch that dude on KZbin.

[@pacificmike9501]

Stop and say hello please. I truly appreciate you. And, the show was great!

[@ericlitalien8360]

I admire people working and taking the time to explain these young super-bikes, how fantastic! Thanks for sharing Mike! Hope to see you on the road some day!!

[@pacificmike9501]

I hope so too!

[@leibstandartejager8582]

Another informative video. Brothers forever.🇨🇦

[@pacificmike9501]

Thank you.

[@Emptybtlswhiskithrtls]

Thank you Mike. You are a bank of knowledge. I've been tinkering with shovels about thirty years, and still learning a lot , thanks to you. From your Georgia friend, " Dawg!!!"

[@pacificmike9501]

Thank You. The learning goes on forever. In that thirty years, you've learned a lot. I'm sure you could show me something.

[@devimead750]

Hi Mike, couldn't have come at a better time as I have just bought a new set of Barnett clutch plates and springs for my 64 Panhead.

[@pacificmike9501]

Cool. Be sure you look at our other videos on four speed dry clutches. Just go to our KZbin channel and click on "videos." They'll be easy to find.

[@MikeRidesDaily]

Restoring my dad's old pan, you're always my go to Mike. Thanks a bunch for your videos.

[@pacificmike9501]

Thank You. I hope your dad feels honored. If he is with us or not, do him proud.

[@mranthonye]

Just found your video’s and love them. Your old school technology is what people learn from. Thank you for sharing

[@pacificmike9501]

Thank you.

[@Ftruckn]

Thanks Mike, delivery was perfect From the Southern Hemisphere- We salute you 🇦🇺

[@pacificmike9501]

Thank You.

[@ironearl69]

Hi Mike, I just had apart a '68 FLH as it had some starter issues. Had a mix match of parts; one being the wrong year clutch shell ('70 and +). I put in a '65 - '69 clutch shell and reused the clutch plates after inspecting them and cleaning them. I adjusted springs first to 1-1/32" as per manual without having the pushrod adjusting screw tight. Next I set the clutch arm to about 1/2" from the starter, then backed off the adjusting screw 1'8" and tightened the locknut. Then adjusted the clutch cable/hand lever to have approx. 1/4" play. I pulled the hand lever in several times and noted that the pressure plate was likely coming out 1/4" or maybe 5/16". I sat on the bike then and put it in gear and pushed it forward with the hand lever fully in (to disengage the clutch) and it was dragging considerably. The clutch shell looked in good shape and the studs on the clutch hub I sanded and were in good shape, so what could be wrong to not allow the clutch to fully disengage? Is it likely to be that I need to drill out the ten holes per plate on the friction discs ab extra 1/32"?? Any thoughts would be appreciated and I know you enjoy making clutches work well so thought I would ask. Thank you. Darren.

[@pacificmike9501]

Please realize, although I try, can't see it from here. First, are the plates separating evenly all the way around. Sometimes the springs don't always have even tension and the three studs may need to be tightened unequal amounts in order to compensate. If the plates are not sliding well because the holes the studs (fingers) pass through are not smooth, drill oversize 1/64th, not 1/32nd. You don't need a full 1/4" in that lever. An eighth or less may be the answer. A lot of people used to figure a nickle"s thickness where the lever touches the perch. Do not get a non-mousetrap unit confused with a mousetrap. I'm assuming no mousetrap. Last mousetrap was 1967. But I have installed them on later models.

[@ironearl69]

@@pacificmike9501 Thank you Mike for your thoughts; I know you are a busy guy. I guess I should secure the handlever in the fully closed position and then measure the distance between the release disc and clutch friction disc to see if it is opening equally and if not adjust? No mousetrap Mike and BTW I am using the correct springs for '68 and up and I am using a 5 stud hub. Thanks again.

[@joesurfer9754]

​@@ironearl69 I could be wrong but I was always taught those 5 stud clutch hubs were more for drag racing and the three stud clutch hubs were better for normal use for disengagement purposes. I personally think you can't diagnose if it is disengaging right unless you start it and ride it.

[@chemdawg9893]

Thanks for the knowledge mike.....happy New year

[@pacificmike9501]

Thank you and Happy New Year.

[@joebehanna5894]

Mike , thanks so much for your expert instructions they have helped me to become a much better wrench and my old shovelhead thanks you too. Your awesome bruh ! I have an aunt who lives in Riverside cali

[@pacificmike9501]

Cool. Is she single and attractive? I mean that most respectfully.

[@joebehanna5894]

No man she isn't

[@craiganderson3170]

putting the extra steel in by the hub basket is the best idea. I ruined a brand new hub basket recently. but it was repairable by putting in the steel.

[@Shovel1978]

Did putting the extra steel up against the basket change the way it grabbed? I've never heard of this before, and am getting ready to install new BDL drive

[@pacificmike9501]

Yep. Easy fix. Thank you.

[@garylight4810]

Aloha Mike... I have been building British bikes for a long time and just picked up a 49 Fl which is my first HD. Some things about the bike were not as designed so been putting it back to stock configuration. Of course I bought a manual but it almost isn't needed now that I found you. I really enjoy your videos!!! Keep on keeping on....

[@pacificmike9501]

Thank You. Have fun with it.

[@richardziegler213]

Had a 65 panhead back in the 70s that had a problem with the clutch plates becoming soaked with oil . Apparently the chain oil wasn't getting suckrd back into the engine . 🤔 Love your videos thankyou 👍

[@pacificmike9501]

You're probably right. I've done so many of those, I had to learn them. Just another day at the office.

[@anthiber]

Thanks Mike! Got my 66 back on the road after watching this video. Keep em coming!

[@pacificmike9501]

Will do!

[@warrenp2022]

Hello and thank you for putting up these informative videos. Just watched this one tonight, re-did my Panhead clutch again after changing the transmission sprocket a couple of weeks ago. I also have the Barnett aluminum clutch friction discs in mine, very good product, I've been using them in my Pan since 1998. I noticed that the friction discs were not making full contact against the steel plates by the wear pattern on the friction material. So since I was not in a hurry I set up my 1/2 inch thick glass panel for flat sanding with 220 grit sandpaper and rubbed each friction disc on that until I had a perfectly flat contact surface. It made a real difference in the feel of the clutch even using my foot(suicide) clutch and jockey shift. Now it is in contact or not in contact, none of the grabbing or incomplete release I had before which makes shifting much nicer. I also use a Zodiac Tamer Kit that holds the clutch basket from moving out, I run a belt drive also.

[@pacificmike9501]

Cool. There are so many products out there and when you find a system that you like, you've won the battle. Got a few myself.

[@jamesking9072]

Hi Mike, I asked you about a clutch issue I was having and wanted to let you know that I purchased a new clutch and went back to the stock circulating system. I built this bike, a 1978 fxe 74 ci over the winter and your videos were there when I got in a bind and didn't quite understand something . Thank you for your response and your very well done videos!

[@pacificmike9501]

That's wonderful. Thank You. And may you and your Shovelhead enjoy many pleasureable years together.

[@elsdp-4560]

THANK YOU...for sharing. Watched and very much enjoyed. Always a thumb up.

[@pacificmike9501]

Thank you.

[@frnktdmn1937]

Thank you for sharing your expertise Mike. I was going to post about my grabbing clutch problem but did not want to duplicate a previous poster so I srcoled thru the clutch posts and discovered the post from Dan McCarthy _ same issues. My 2" open primary conversion to my '73 shovel would not disengage the mainshaft. It drove me nuts because I had already done two 1.5" belt conversions successfully. Your advice for drilling out the clutch plates with 25/64 bit did the TRICK! I am so freakin happy with my recent bobber build.

[@pacificmike9501]

Cool. That makes me feel really good.

[@electricstartclint]

Glad to see a new video! Keep up the good work!

[@pacificmike9501]

Thank you.

[@scrumthebum2451]

Best move I ever made on my 81 fxs was get rid of stock clutch & compensator. Replaced with BDL pro clutch kit wit sold sprocket & chain. It uses the solid Evo style sealed bearings. Much less vibration & clutch never slips

[@pacificmike9501]

Very Cool.

[@Hoyt1911A1]

Great video as always Mike. As far as plate brands go a little over twenty years ago I put a set of Barnett plates into the clutch of my Shovelhead. I think once in that time I cleaned them like you are doing here after a carb tweak added a few HP and it started slipping. Haven't had to monkey with them since. I don't know if Barnett is still around but this video made me think of them. Thanks again for sharing your knowledge. I live in a rural area in Southern Virginia and the last old timer around these parts that really knew these old bikes passed away a few years ago. Your videos are very helpful to those of us all alone in the wilds trying to keep our old iron healthy.

[@pacificmike9501]

Thank you. We used to have to figure it out every time we added more horsepower. Tighten those springs some more. Now, if you didn't have one before, you'd be thankful for a foot clutch now. However, Barnett is very much still in business and still family owned. Their factory is in Ventura California. Still making great stuff.

[@tomconners8497]

I ran the Barnett clutch Assy. and Phase 3 open primary combo on my stock 80” shovel. Your triggering a little trip down memory lane with your vids Pacific Mike :).

[@pacificmike9501]

Yah, it was and is fun stuff.

[@tomconners8497]

Pacific Mike I mean to say that, the engine was the stock 80” first one, I bought it from the factory 1980. I had already gotten a 57 pan head frame, and a couple of damaged wide glides that fixed up into a good one. I like the new efi harleys , they are Bullit proof. Maybe to good, could be part of California Harley economic woes. Got the new Aircraft spec brakes that were coming out. Yeah nostalgia is a big part of my everyday world these days😂

[@jons7250]

Great video. Encouraged to pull mine apart as the bike does not want to down shit from third. The plates are a bit grooved and one plate has some rust as though it was stuck to the fiber disk. So I guess the whole system should be replaced?? Even the basket has some grooving and a bit of oil. I wish pictures could be posted!! Maybe I'll clean it up and see how it performs, but the grooving is not going away without a lathe.............

[@pacificmike9501]

Sometimes they clean up and work fine. Somes times they don't. New stuff is always cool, but not always necessary or economically feasible. Look it over. Get a feel for how it works. This is the learning proccess.

[@jons7250]

Thanks, I’ll clean it up and give it a shot. One conundrum I have is that my case is stamped as a 1940 WLA. That’s a very unusual and unlikely model. I’m thinking it’s actually a 1941 up clutch but don’t really know how to confirm that without buying parts….. I see a lot of parts listed for 1941 and up, but not for 1940.

[@pacificmike9501]

You'll need parts for a WLA. Don't buy parts for a Big Twin.

[@1381greg]

Great vid....very similar to my 99 with a BDL open set up.....Thanks.

[@pacificmike9501]

Thank you.

[@bartsimpson4122]

It's so good knowing there's still old school bike mechanics, koodos!

[@pacificmike9501]

Thank You

[@lawrest9561]

I learn volumes from you. Thank you.

[@pacificmike9501]

My pleasure!

[@cebuwho9564]

Thank you Mike for another great workshop night love watching your videos if I have a problem I can always go to your videos to teach me how to god bless you

[@pacificmike9501]

Awesome, thank you!

[@cebuwho9564]

@@pacificmike9501 I hope someday I can meet you in person I have a great deal of respect for you

[@dahun78]

Thanks mate, this was absolutely awesome. Watching from Western Australia 🍻

[@pacificmike9501]

Glad you enjoyed it

[@timothyputzke1250]

Wishing you and your family a Healthy Happy New Year. Thank you for the Great Videos.

[@pacificmike9501]

Thank you and, wishing you and yours the same.

[@jobuck893]

I love your videos man hope to see more and more of them Thank You

[@pacificmike9501]

Thank you.

[@jonhaddican268]

Thanks for putting this together. I have a 49 I'm going to have questions about. PEACE

[@pacificmike9501]

Thank you. Hope I can help.

[@bobhartman2571]

Very nice Mike. Thanks.

[@pacificmike9501]

Thank you.

[@mihaibalais8864]

Thank you, good sir! Your guidance was invaluable.

[@pacificmike9501]

Thank You. That's great to hear.

[@keepitreal1394]

Wow Mike look at all your views man. Been watching for years love you man. Ride free, Panheads heck yeah

[@pacificmike9501]

Thank You.

[@burner234]

Great video! Somehow I missed the part showing all the lesser informed how to load the springs on the pressure plate with the adjusting screw and washer. Some people think their springs are going flying on removal. Maybe it was in a previous video. Cheers

[@pacificmike9501]

I have shown it, but, lay the releasing disc smooth side down and put the springs in place, all ten in a circle with their respective holes in alignment with each spring. Now, lay the pressure plate on top of the springs. Depending on the clutch hub you're using, there will be either three or five of those holes shaped for adjusting nuts. Don't worry about them, they will register when installing the releasing disc onto the hub, later. Now lay a large flat washer or a Shovelhead valve spring retainer over the large center hole in the pressure plate. The washer should have a 3/8 hole in the center or size it down with a small washer over the big one. Now, install the center adjusting screw and put the locknut on it. Tighten the lock nut some and the whole thing is in one piece. After you install it with all of the three or five stud adjusting nuts, you can remove the center locknut and take out the large flatwasher.

[@tagelavechristensen7485]

Another great video. On my knucklehead i ran the old pressure plate and some old (maybee original) springs, and that ment that there was'nt the same tension in each spring, so when ever i serviced it, instead of messureing the distance, I had to tightening the spring different each time. I did it aprox and then made sure the ajusting plate went straight out when activated. Pull the clutch severeal times, while slowy rotating the clutchhead (using kickpedal or backwheel). I know i could have bought new springs, but they lasted the 26 year i rode the bike. Greeting from Denmark

[@pacificmike9501]

Thank you. And, your explanation is great. I tried to show getting the releasing disc to move straight and even in one of our previous videos. This was a "go back and make it quit slipping" video. And I appreciate the fact that parts that are "half worn are still half good."

[@BudzzableRides]

Great video, I just stumbled across your ch. today. Sure glad I did, I have an 86 evo with a 4 speed.

[@pacificmike9501]

Thank you. Hopefully, I can be of service.

[@johneckstrom6253]

Baby Doll is absolutely beautiful thank you I was wondering what was in the bottle and couple minutes you answered what I had just thought I had to laugh...Thank You Pacific Mike M love & Respect to you....John E.

[@pacificmike9501]

Thank You.

[@kennyadamson5969]

If Bob Ross was introduced to motorcycles instead of paint as a kid! I could watch these videos all day!

[@pacificmike9501]

He really was special.

[@Jim_Berry]

Good video! Enjoyed it! I would love to see a twin cam video.

[@pacificmike9501]

Thank you. I think I have to seal up a twin cam inner primary this week end. Hope I have a camera guy.

[@timmix331]

Hope you have a great 2020👍🖖

[@pacificmike9501]

Thank you and wishing you the same.

[@deadheadlights]

Thanks Mike! Happy 2020!

[@pacificmike9501]

Happy 2020! Thank you and, Is this the start of the "Roaring Twenties?"

[@deadheadlights]

@@pacificmike9501 haha it is im afraid. Lots of Roaring and tyre smoke!

[@wyattgomes6972]

great video, very informative. Thanks so much for doing this and taking the time to teach everyone. cant wait to watch more videos of yours

[@pacificmike9501]

Thank You. We do have a bunch of videos, already available to you. Just ggo to KZbin, then pacific mike. Then click on "videos."

[@haroldwiser2641]

Thanks Mike!

[@pacificmike9501]

Thank you.

[@julianbrook-owen9107]

Another great video Mike. By watching your vids I managed to build my 74 fxe from boxes... She's a real eye catcher now. Thanks. If you have a email I can send you pics. Currently I have a strange whinning noise in third... So I'm on the lookout for related vids. Cheers again. J

[@pacificmike9501]

Thank You. Sorry, I need to figure out the picture thing on the Channel. That "whinining" noise in third gear is probably the "third gear" bushing. It comes from riding around in third gear all the time. Probably spent it's life riding around town. Look it up in your service manual. I said "probably" and a "long distance" diagnosis may not be correct. It's a big job, of course, to pull the trans and rebuild it, but not a lot of money in parts if the gears are all good.

[@pastorbobncc365]

Thank you Mike, have a blessed week

[@pacificmike9501]

And, I wish you one.

[@1955porsche]

very thorough ,,i need this ,,cant get my 1936el adjusted right,,always engaged wont disengage.. very impressed.. i will start w a steel disc like u did see if that solves my no disengaging issue

[@pacificmike9501]

"Clean" works on most of it.

[@looloo6322]

"That was working not well"- A classic line.

[@pacificmike9501]

The point I was trying to make is: These things are subject to many issues. A lot of the parts we're working with are quite old. So, the goal is to make all of these parts function well together. If at first you don't succeed (whatever level of perfection you're going for), go back in and have a little talk with her. Glad you like it. Thank You.

[@looloo6322]

@@pacificmike9501 You're glad I like it, actually I love it and I am going to steal it, if you don't mind.

[@bluebeard6189]

Whenever I'm not sure if something I just find one of your videos.

[@pacificmike9501]

Cool, Thank You.

[@rp75heavy]

U can also use a top shock washer, to retain those spring s

[@pacificmike9501]

Or a large flatwasher stacked with a small flatwasher, or something from the hardware store. It's fun to be creative. That old valve spring retainer has been used on old cluches for over forty years. Don't tell her there's a cheap replacement for her.

[@thatsmrharley2u2]

@@pacificmike9501 I've always used an old Chevy fender shim. Works perfectly.

[@chadstitz5687]

Mike, I absolutely love the videos. Keep them coming. My 58 Panhead hemorrhages oil. They all do, but yours does not! Please enlighten me. PS the chain Oiler has been capped off

[@pacificmike9501]

Are you referring to the breather tube coming out of the crankcase into the primary? If os, there's your problem. Look at the service manual and find the screw on the oil pump that controls the amount of oil that comes out of that breather tube. Now, close down that screw (just tighten it until it bottoms). Now, open that beather tube. If it's noot breathing, your engine is building up all kinds of destructive pressure.

[@chadstitz5687]

@@pacificmike9501 I will give that a go and get back to you. Thank you!

[@balmori.hangarage]

Hello Micke!!! I guess you like to service your clutch because the look like the 45 rpm acetate disk with all the good music of the good days!!! best regards as always!

[@pacificmike9501]

Yes I do!

[@robertjeffery6100]

Always picking up your tips and tricks

[@pacificmike9501]

Cool.

[@closertothetruth9209]

nice to know bikes have dry clutches, i thought only wet existed but i work on cars etc not bikes, i like your channel a lot

[@pacificmike9501]

Glad you like them! The later model stuff has wet clutches.

[@MoeLarrycurly1]

🏍🖖🏽😃😃 thank you Love those pans 🍺

[@pacificmike9501]

Sweet, smooth, and dependable as an old anvil. Thank you.

[@716Harleyjoe]

great lessons Mike, I own shovelheads, a 72 fx, a 78 flh and a 82 flh. My question is keep the chain primary or go belt drive. I like to keep stuff stock for higher values, thanks

[@pacificmike9501]

Thank you. I like belt drives on kick start bikes and I like chain drives on electric start bikes. Just my preference.

[@tobpitbull]

Another great video

[@pacificmike9501]

Thank You.

[@myronbenware8779]

Good information, video's well done.

[@pacificmike9501]

Thank you.

[@mayfairsmith4697]

Thanks , good stuff. Much appreciated.

[@pacificmike9501]

Glad it helped

[@skorobeymoto6133]

Спасибо большое. Если даже были вопросы, то они исчезли после просмотра вашего видео 🤝.

[@pacificmike9501]

Thank You. You'll have to excuse me. I just got my translator working again. Not Google's fault, mine.

[@hardtailsuicidaljockey6827]

Great video as ALWAYS ! Hope the new year brings you health and happiness.....

[@pacificmike9501]

Thank you and, I certainly wish you the same.

[@crspcritter]

Working on my shovelhead clutch . Can of worms. Dry like yours ; belt drive . I have to rev it to get in nuetral . My springs are 5 Barnett and 5 factory springs . So I went back to all factory springs . Now I have to rev to get in neutral and it goes past and to second gear . Frustrated- got it set up as loose as possible and most clutch pull . I seen all of Indian larrys bike have updated clutch hubs . $$$ Well there are several things on market to help clutch basket from wandering. Thanks mike . Making things more better - 😁✊🏻👍👌🙏

[@pacificmike9501]

Not sure what the problem is. Is the clutch not releasing, or is there a transmission problem? Is the basket loose on the hub? Is the throwout system funtctioning properly?

[@crspcritter]

@@pacificmike9501 yes it opens wide . Dragging I believe. I have the big fix rollers . I have 5 finger hub . 5 finger not good as 3 now I’m told . I have a primo 11mm belt drive with idler . I know tension is right . Idler seems to keep it riding towards inner primary side . 🤔 👍🙏

[@pacificmike9501]

That's another issue. Shimming the trans to get the mainshaft in the same plane with the motor shaft is what you need. Maybe the idler will require some shimming.

[@crspcritter]

@@pacificmike9501 amen mike - I will investigate. Many thanks . Wife and I got out for a ride ; pi town loop . Dang it was great hearing em v twin’s roar side by side . 😁 autumn in the air - ✊🏻👍👌🙏👋

[@pacificmike9501]

You bet. Been out on my Shovel. She's serving up some serious thrills lately.

[@3RDOOR]

Enjoy! fixing addiction acquired ;-) 2020!~!

[@pacificmike9501]

There's something to be said about "idle hands," but, I forgot. The addiction is still present.

[@MrJoshlemons]

Thank you

[@pacificmike9501]

And, thank you.

[@Freedomfighter916]

Love the video

[@pacificmike9501]

Thank You.

[@davidson2004fatboy]

PEACE Bro. 👍🙏 WE DO IT, BECAUSE WE CAN😁😂🤣

[@pacificmike9501]

Pretty much. It all makes me happy. Peace be with you.

[@davidson2004fatboy]

@@pacificmike9501 👍👌🙏😎

[@hyperluminalreality1]

Saw you do 1 1/2 turns at 21:20. That is why you had to do another half turn on the other two to match them.

[@pacificmike9501]

Okay.

[@stevemoore8742]

I was baffled as how you were able to have the release plate assembled with the springs already under pressure, until you finally mentioned the shovel head valve retainer . Genius! Thanks for mentioning. I have no idea how that can be reassembled without that? How did Harley suggest this? Thanks for that video. My56PAN

[@pacificmike9501]

It's the way I was taught in the seventies. It's not hard to assemble off the bike and then put it on. The guys I knew back then were not trained by the factory.

[@frankmccracken743]

Hey Mike, new subscriber here. Love your videos. Can't stop binge watching them! An old shovel owner and rebuilder here, years ago. Twin cam owner now. Learnin' stuff here like the extra steel disc hint. Question: I noticed in this video that you installed the clutch steels still shiny but scuffed the discs. What about scuffing the steels? All the old stories in the old days of guys slightly roughing up clutch steel discs on the side of the road on the concrete when the clutch started to slip...? Thanks again man. Ride safe, Frank

[@pacificmike9501]

Not all materials are the same. Do what works for you. They will get "polished" in there anyway. Clean is what you need. Clean and dry. Again, what works for you is what you need. Take care.

[@Shovel1978]

Hey Mike, so are you adding a extra steel plate to the stack? Does the metal on metal still engage/grab the same? Just received a new BDL system and don't want to hurt anything. I've never seen this done before

[@pacificmike9501]

The bottom fiber either engages on the inner surface of the basket itself, or it engages against a steel plate that is protecting the basket. It's a very common old way of doing it. If you let the fiber plate engage with the basket, it tends to wear and gall in there. Next time you take it apart, you might say, "I don't like that," and add a steel plate, or not. No harm, no foul. Just remember, if you add a steel plate, you may have to grind the edges and remove the buffers so it can bottom completely flat in the basket.

[@jimmyp6443]

I believe Barnett don't manufacture the plates shown ,manufacturers discontinue anything that works

[@pacificmike9501]

I honestly don't know. Call them. They're a really nice bunch of folks.

[@jamesf.mcdonoughjr.9721]

Hi Mike, Thank you for all the videos and experience, as you teach from your home garage! also just love it when something doesn't go perfect for you, it makes you more real. OK enough brown nosing! I restored a 1981 Sturgis about 10 yrs ago, and it only has about (11,000 Mi.) clutch and transmission shifted like butter but had a little clutch chatter till warm. Thinking a warped plate I put in a new clutch plates and steel plates this time with anti rattle balls; chatter gone but cant find neutral when running now?? cant seem to dial in the adjustment, followed service manual but without success!!! Haven't had this happen on any other shovels I own; could you do a video on how to adjust properly, my best Jim

[@pacificmike9501]

I don't have one of those transmissions with the "Astrodome lid." But, if you look in the service manual for the clutch adjustment, you'll see a 13/16" measurement off of the top of the lid, to the clutch release lever. Quite possibly, your issue. Another possible issue would be the fiber plates not sliding easily on the clutch hub "fingers." This happens with a lot of aftermarket plates after their dies have been used a few million times. If such is the case, I drill out the holes in the plates 1/64th of an inch over the original 3/8ths. Then they slide easily.

[@jamesf.mcdonoughjr.9721]

@@pacificmike9501 Thank you Mike, I didn't check for a reply until just now 9:35 am East coast ( Rhode Island smallest state in the union ) I thought If i received an answer; mite be weeks. I use a small block of wood with Formica on one side 13/16" in between arm and tranny while I start my adjustment on it. I think your advice to drill my be my answer and will try that. I'm a 1951 model (be 71) in a couple of weeks; so probably not a whole lot of tread left on my tires LOL. I truly appreciate what you are doing Mike, Keep it shinny side up!! Jim

[@pacificmike9501]

Thank You, you got plenty tread left. We both do.

[@georgejanz1313]

Mike, thanks

[@pacificmike9501]

Thank You.

[@thesenutz77]

I thought you just scuffed them up on a concrete floor a few times and you were good to go? Thank you for the videos.

[@pacificmike9501]

It works. The neater the job, the easier it works. I remember doing them on the sidewalk.

[@naui_diver9290]

Baby doll is being unfaithful to me again....heartbro...eh shes happy ripping around then im happy!! Shes a beauty!

[@pacificmike9501]

Thank You.

[@gordonrobertson3973]

Great videos...i enjoy and learn..but if you were in my neighborhood you would be known as the MR Rogers of Harley's..🤪😉

[@pacificmike9501]

Thank You. I am having a good time.

[@terrysmith8714]

Many Thanks. Cheers

[@pacificmike9501]

Thank you too!

[@patrickmalloy7881]

Mike great videos!!!! I'm not sure if I'm posting this in the right place but could you make a video on assembly and then adjusting the friction discs in a rocker clutch? Kind of like how you did the mouse trap video only this time with the rocker clutch?

[@pacificmike9501]

I do show adjusting the shifter on my Panhead. I think it's there. I know I already showed it. Maybe it's on a clutch video.

[@wcjones1010]

Mike I've watched all of your clutch videos, I haven't seen anything on how to adjust the rocker clutch setup, especially as detailed as the mouse trap video is. Rocker clutch transmission adjustment video would be great.

[@willcountypowersports6338]

Love the videos man!

[@pacificmike9501]

Glad you like them!

[@stevevasquez7754]

I'd like to add a little I put a little grease on the little ball of the steel clutch plate and a little fine grease in the clutch up where it rides. What do you think about that. I'm curious

[@pacificmike9501]

If you get grease on the plates, you'll need to clean them.

[@stevevasquez7754]

No just a little bit on that little ball not crazy not a messy

[@docmyers5557]

Mike, I have a 1974 FXE, and I'm having trouble finding spark plugs, seems no one is caring my type of plug. Automate 4275, shorty's, I have some coming from eBay, but no one here in St Louis is caring that plug, not even the bike shops. HELP !!!!!

[@pacificmike9501]

74 Shovelhead uses a plain old J12YC Champion. That is the same as a 283 cu. in. Chevrolet uses. There are several brands you can "cross-reference" from there. Later Harleys use long reach plugs. But 1974 is still a short reach. You just need to go to a "knowledgeable" auto parts supply. Okay, find an old guy.

[@docmyers5557]

@@pacificmike9501 Thanks Mike

[@shanecoker8566]

I’ve been rewatching these videos on the clutch, the starter ring-gear on my 69 FLH is bad. I have the service manual but like to watch it being done first.

[@pacificmike9501]

I understand. Don't have one that needs it at the moment.

[@MrBluoct]

Mach 1 / 761 mph ! Yeah, better adjust her 🤙🤙

[@pacificmike9501]

Okay. so I exaggerated a little. But, it was close to Mach 1! And the clutch isn't slipping any more. Thanx for straightening me out.

[@MononkJS]

There is a Bob Ross kinda vibe to Mike's video.

[@pacificmike9501]

Thank You

[@mirozuti5120]

Mike, I've heard I should change my lifters on my 110ci twin cam CVO motor? Is there any truth to that

[@pacificmike9501]

Lifters wear out. Never a question of "if," just "when." When replacing cams and doing the usual "upgrades," the lifters are usually replaced with "aftermarket high performance" units. You didn't mention how many miles are on the original lifters. They are a "wear item" and shouldn't be forgotten.

[@CapnDrift]

I've been riding and wrenching on my (chopped) '62FL for forty years and learned something when you started with the steel. Further more, I just replaced a BDL basket because of the friction disc gouging you mention. Question for you, Mike: instead of replacing the basket could I have just dropped a (corner shaved) steel in? Also, would you do me a favor and if you haven't put the outer on yet, or have an old Pan basket lying around measure the depth? Shovels are deeper?

[@pacificmike9501]

Yes, you could have put a plate i there. But, as you ask, the difference in depth can be from Manufacturer to manufacturer. There are also bunches of manufacturers of clutch plates. The stacks vary in height. I've gone through piles of used stuff to come up with different combinations to suit the applications. I don't know what BDL"s depth is.

[@CapnDrift]

@@pacificmike9501 I wasn't asking the BDL depth. I've the old one laying on the back porch. I was asking what stock (Pan) is. That I don't have any longer (it's lost or buried). The thing is, my basket doesn't have room for an extra steel. I suppose I could run a 1/2 disc at the release plate. Or maybe I'm just over thinking it (shrug). And an after note: It just dawned on me you aren't running a stock primary either. Still, if you've a stock one lying around or have the opportunity to measure a customer's I'd be interested in knowing how deep it is. Just because, I guess. Thanks. Yes, they call me "Drift." ☺

[@davidcook1166]

Mike.....I lost a drag race against a Sportster due to clutch slipping at the end of the quarter, so, I bought a set of Barnett discs. Like wow! I would barely release the clutch lever (Shovelhead) and I was on my way. There sure wasn't much slippage vs the stock HD stuff. For street, give me the stock stuff....but for drag, give me Barnett!....walt...tulsa,ok

[@pacificmike9501]

You know I can't push products. But, they are a family run company that I've had the pleasure of doing business with personally, since the days of my 305 Honda Scrambler. That would be 1967 or '68.

[@hanskonrad5850]

david, my barnett is slipping when i get on it . 80ci 83 fxwg . seems its always been slipping since i got the bike back together . i just dont wack it down alot so been dealing w it . did you go by the barnett spring torque specs? you running any oil in the primary or using the stock oiler ? maybe im getting to much oil in the basket by filling ity to much ? any advice would be great ! thanks form the vids mike

[@davidcook1166]

@@hanskonrad5850 the Barnett clutch discs that I bought were wet and dry. If your clutch is slipping with them you have something else wrong. (probably not enough pressure plate pressure) I've driven drag cars where the clutch discs were unsprung and that's what the Barnett felt like in my Shovel!)....david

[@hanskonrad5850]

@@davidcook1166 thanks David I thought about the springs also Will snug up maybe a turn or 2 then check it out . Barnett says 6 lbs ..hand clutch is very easy to pull so can maybe use a stiffinin

[@rickpelkey2646]

Hi Mike! Realy enjoying your channel, great to see another old grey haired biker type working on old bikes. Kind of an off topic question for you. I recently aquired a 59 Pan after many years of running a 77 Shovel. Loved the belt drive on the shovel and I'm thinking that the Pan will get a belt this winter. My question is how did you route the crankcase breather on Baby Doll?

[@pacificmike9501]

You may have to modify the breather tube going into the primary. Remove the tube and modify the primary end to attach a 3/8 hose to the end of it. Route the hose behind the primary tin and out the back of the bike. Be careful how you do it so it doesn't ever spray oil on the rear tire. Be sure you bottom the oiler screw on the oil pump. Don't tighten it so much that it damages the pump. Now it is just a breather and not an oiler.

[@TeapotLive]

Mike, I have the same releasing disk and wondering if you could give me your starting sprint tension measurements? Thanks!

[@pacificmike9501]

It's really pretty simple. Take your measurement the same as you would for a thin steel disc. Just allow more in the amount of the depth of the "spring pocked." Use a narrow ruler or caliper and measure the depth of that hole. subtract it from the measurement you would usually use. Then you have it. If the hole is 1/4 " deep and your measurement is supposed to be 1", from the surface of the releasing disc to the pressure plate it should measure 3/4".

[@TeapotLive]

@@pacificmike9501 fair enough, I'll stick a caliper in there. I was just feeling lazy. I appreciate the reply! Thanks Mike. I bought this disc a few months ago and never ran it because it felt loose on the fingers and I was concerned about faster wear of the fingers. I ended up buying a second disc, the stock style thin steel crap and ended up warping that thing first time 'racing around' so now back to a sticky clutch at the moment. I'm going to make a switch to the thick aluminum one and hope for some better life!

[@stevemoniz8690]

Hi Mike, great videos! When adjusting my shovelhead clutch it seems that the freeplay in the clutch arm after adjusting the screw gets taken away when cable adjustment is made. Should I be holding the arm back so the cable doesn't pull it into engagement with the throwout bearing?

[@pacificmike9501]

I think you have no freeplay up at the hand lever, or you need to lube that clutch cable. Take it loose from the hand lever and run something down inside, then wait and do it again several times. A good cable lube product or even "Break Free."

[@stevemoniz8690]

@@pacificmike9501 new clutch cable fully lubed. Should the clutch arm have a spring attached to pull it away from the throwout bearing like cars do?

[@pacificmike9501]

No. There should be clearance between the adjusting screw and the clutch pushrod. It's asking you for a thorough inspection to see what's hanging it up. It could be the pushrod or the throwout bearing .Time to get in there.

[@stevemoniz8690]

Thanks Mike for taking time to answer me. All the parts were trashed, bearing, pushrod end & adjusting screw tip too. I ordered all new heavy duty stuff. Thanks again.

[@pacificmike9501]

I had a feelin'. Been there. Be sure to allow a little gap between the adjusting screw and the pushrod, just a little, and grease all the ends.

[@bobpeters6532]

Hi Mike! Great videos on clutch disassembly and cleaning! The clutch on my '77 Shovelhead wasn't engaging properly, so I removed the primary cover to have a look. Turns out when I work the clutch lever, the left side of the clutch basket moves out, but the right side hardly moves at all. The clutch springs seem to be relatively even, but I'll take measurements and adjust them evening just to be sure. Can you tell me what's causing the uneven movement of the clutch basket? Thanks!

[@pacificmike9501]

If everything is cleaned and lubed properly, the basket should stay still. Look at all of our stuff on clutches. Just hit the "videos" button. There are several videos on the old dry clutches.

[@alanstebbins3384]

Like your video, what do you think is better the 3 or the 5 finger clutch hub

[@pacificmike9501]

Matter of personal preference. I prefer the three.

[@ramblingprose6603]

Aluminium plates would also dissipate heat better

[@pacificmike9501]

Probably so, but, it's captured inside. I don't think (but I could be wrong) it makes that much difference.

[@johngordon8376]

Mike my name is John gordon I live in rock falls ill. I own a 1962 flh harley panhead. I have replaced over approximately 2500 dollars in parts and performed extensive amount of work on her. I had to replace the pivot plate on the mousetrap.also replaced the dry clutch package with new parts. I have the clutch lever at one eighth play. I watched your video about the clutch adj. My question is with the mousetrap system is the pressure on the clutch pushrod to the throw out bearing the same as shown on your video

[@pacificmike9501]

There is no pressure until the arm is moved. The idea is to adjust to the point of pressure, then back off so there is none.

[@robertmayer2071]

just serviced my 76 flh clutch yesterday installed new friction discs but did not drill plates still draggs so im going to pull clutch again try drilling the plates to 25/64 hope it cures the drag problem

[@pacificmike9501]

Hopefully, it will. Also, watch the clutch as you pull it in to see if it is breaking straight. You may have to "uneven" the springs a little to make the plates separate evenly. Also, notice the "Ram Jett Retainer" I use that stabilizes the basket.

[@robertmayer2071]

@@pacificmike9501 a-ha yes ive noticed that it is not breaking straight and ive always wondered why and what is the cure when i get the time maybe tomorrow i will dissasemble and replace frictions with drilled ones and reasemble and uneven the spring pressure looking for a clean break i think your info just might solve this dragging clutch that ive been suffering with for far too long thank you for sharing your thoughts on this problem thanks again !!!!

[@josephlewis7166]

Hey guy happy happy holidays , i was just wondering can a mouse trap be installed to a 1994 heritege softail evo?

[@pacificmike9501]

Anything can be done. It would be very complicated and there are a couple of different approaches that come to mind. A cable would have to be fabricated. The best way ( in my mind) to do the rod would be to use an early 5 speed trap door on your transmission and fabricate the clutch arm for a proper location. That's a pretty intense, but possible, feat. But, Happy Holidays!

[@josephlewis7166]

@@pacificmike9501 thnx appreciate it

[@brianwatson5435]

I just put in new clutch hub, friction discs, aluminum releasing disc and springs. The Barnett springs are 50 lbs @ 1-1/8”, and appear to be somewhere around a 1/4” shorter than stock. Does that affect the measurement I would set between my pressure plate and my releasing disc versus what the manual would state for stock springs?

[@pacificmike9501]

You say, "Shorter than stock." By whose calculations? What years are the new springs intended for? You mentioned "an aluminum releasing disc." Are you measuring the spring length from the disc surface? I believe the springs are seated in the "counterbores" of that disc. Be sure you're counting that counterbore in the length of the spring.

[@brianwatson5435]

The springs are Barnett (part #501-66-10041) which the site says will fit my 71 flh. The springs that were in my clutch, which I can only assume are stock length, though I have only owned the bike for 6 years, are longer than the new ones. The Barnett’s are a hair under 1.5” and the ones I pulled out are 1.72” with my fancy digital caliber. As for measurement location, I prefer to measure from the plate, versus the counterbores for convenience reasons. The depth of the counterbores look to be about 0.340” (11/32”?) deep.

[@brianwatson5435]

So I found my answer and thought I would share. The springs are actually for 67 or earlier clutch assemblies, whereas I have a 71. Apparently the earlier assemblies used 3 1/2 friction plates with stiffer springs and had the mousetrap to assist. After 68 we have 5 plates and they ditched the mousetrap. I’m sure you know all this but I dint want you to chase an answer unnecessarily. All the sites I visited state they are compatible. I set it up with the spacing set in the manual as the Barnett rep told me to. The clutch hub nuts are not on a lot, as they are flush with the studs. But they are not loose and I hit them with a dab of blue locktite. Works really well, and I don’t really notice the increased tension as I run a foot clutch. Thanks.

[@Nickolas64]

Got a clutch question if you don't mind since I seen this video. The 73 FLH I just got I noticed after taking the primary off has a sifton diaphragm clutch in it. Are you familiar with these? What I'm wondering now is the proper way to adjust it .

[@pacificmike9501]

I haven't done one of those. But, I can tell you where it comes from and you can probably get instructions from the supplier. Tedd Cycle, better known as V-Twin in New York, owns the name "Sifton" after the Late Great, Mr. Tom Sifton. They manufacture and sell parts using that name. They're also some pretty nice folks. I would either contact them direct or go through your local shop to them.

[@Nickolas64]

@@pacificmike9501 OK thanks. I actually read somewhere to adjust it for a 85-90 FX/Softail. I screwed the cable all the way in until full slack then adjusted the distance from ratchet to starter at 1/2", turned the screw in on clutch rod adjustment till touches then out 1/8", locked it down and then adjusted the slack out of the cable to 1/16" free play on clutch lever for the hand. Seems to work OK and goes into neutral easily. No creep in first gear sitting so maybe it's good. I need to get out on the road to see how it operates. This Trans shifts easy into first and fourth but second and third is a full throw and firm. Maybe it's set up to shift that way ? These trans with straight cut gears reminds me of the Muncie rock crusher m22 four speeds in the old gm muscle cars I used to drive long ago. I'm not that familiar with these and how they shift . When fresh rebuilt are they easy to shift or just naturally clunky? The later 5 speed in the 01 FLH I had was easy to shift but this four speed you have to give it a firm shift to get it in gear...

[@Nickolas64]

@@pacificmike9501 Tell you one thing the pull on this clutch is very strong on this Sifton. Id like to put a mousetrap setup on it to ease the pull. Love the look of those contraptions and it would give it a little more style for me. That's what I need as I get trigger finger at times and from a condition I have my hands get numb and or lock up on me. I need a much lighter clutch pull. I need to find a complete setup to put on my ride. You don't have an extra one lying around to get rid of do ya or know where I can get one do ya?