*NEW* La Sportiva Solution Comp

[@hyau23]

Shoe companies need to get rid of the mens and womens terms. Both sexes wear either shoe. It's LV or HV

[@doublevgreen]

in la sportiva climbing shoes there is no difference between men and woman shoes regarding volume, instead they differ in stiffnes

[@WeighMyRack]

We've heard from other brands that it's challenging to move away from the men's and women's classifications because people are so used to narrowing down their shoe search by gender. Very few men wear "women's" street shoes, and it's challenging to shift that paradigm. But we completely agree that the gender based classifications for climbing shoes less than ideal.

[@philipppuchner1115]

@@doublevgreen Try the Otaki. The blue (unisex, xs edge) und the yellow (women's, xs grip 2): Same size, same fit, same volume. Just the women's feel a little softer and a little more comfortable. maybe just because of grip 2 instead of edge, or the material is softer or softer because thinner, i don't know. The inner padding has a different colour. . Now the Skwama. The Unisex and the Women's one. Same "shape" and size, but the Women's is MUCH narrower, MUCH lower Volume and the HEEL is VERY MUCH lower volume than that extreme balloon heel like the Solution. The heel of the Skwama Women's is like the one from the Otaki in size (volume). I know that, because i own all of those shoes, brand new, out of the box, in the same size. Just not the unisex skwamas, that i just tried on at home a couple of days, before sending them back and then discovering the Skwama Women's after it was released. . I remember the Miura VS, the yellow men and the blue women's version: Didn't feel much difference. The Women's version was softer, more supple, but i don't know if it was just because of the xs grip 2 vs the xs edge rubber on the yellow, and/or because the women's use a softer midsole (or softer ebcause of thinner midsole), and/or softer (or softer because thinner) Material. . So: It depends on the model!

[@doublevgreen]

@@philipppuchner1115 thanks for the answer! in most videos la sportiva just day they are build on a different last (wpd75 instead of pd75). guess i have invest more time figuring out the real differences and not just listening to their ads/videos

[@philipppuchner1115]

@@doublevgreen Yeah! Also in different videos they say different Stuff! And since i tried the shoes on side by side i saw and felt for myself. What midsole is concerned: Also here in this vid, they mention the thinner and therefore softer midsole in the women's version. 1,1mm LaSpoFlex in the men's/unisex shoe, 0,9mm in the women's shoe. . I now have the list of the Sportiva shoes in front of me, some document i found online few years ago. Miura XX, Otaki + Kataki are on it, os that can't be that old. I suppose beginning of 2018? Skwama Women'S and Futura Women'S are NOT on it. Also no new 2019 Terstarossa: . Otaki: Men - Women: PD 75 - WPD 75 // 1,1mm - 1,1mm // 4mm XS Edge - 4mm XS Grip 2 // Medium Volume Miura VS: Men - Women: PD 75 - WPD 75 // 1,1mm - 1,1mm // 4mm XS Edge - 4mm XS Grip 2 // High Volume Miura: Men - Women: PD 75 - WPD 75 // 1,1mm - 1,1mm // 4mm XS Edge - 4mm XS Grip 2 // Low Volume // NO P3!! Kataki: Men - Women: PD 75 - WPD 75 // 1,1mm - 1,1mm // 4mm XS Edge - 4mm XS Grip 2 // Low Volume Solution: Men - Women: PD 75 - WPD 75 // 1,1mm - 0,9mm // 4mm XS Grip 2 - 4mm XS Grip 2 // Medium Volume . Miura XX has the same stats as the Miura (men). But hat the P3 tension plattform. . Mythos: Men - Women: RN 25 - WRN 25 // 1,1mm - 1,1mm // 4mm Edge - 4mm XS Grip 2 // Medium Volume // NO P3!! Finale: Men - Women: PN 45 - WPN 45 // 1,1mm - 1,1mm // 5mm Edge - 5mm XS Edge // Medium Volume --> Has to be an error, because i truly believe that the Finale Women's has the softer XS Grip 2 rubber outsole and not the same clunky 5mm(!) XS Edge. . Rest I don't give a damn. It may be true, that the Tarantula/Tarantulace women's are a little narrower than the normal ones, but i don't know. Also there is something called Firxion RX on the normal Tarantulas, but i think on the "women's" there it says Friction RS (s...soft?) Conclusion: Maaaaan... as long as you don't have a shoe, brand new out of mass production at your home and cannot put your feet in them and climb in them, you cannot trust anything and anybody!

[@Alessandromarangoni123]

From 45 to 41?? Are you joking? I would like to see where 4 number less and climb

[@armitage35]

They did not address the closing system that breaks for most everyone after 3/4 month for everyone...

[@rhyhl]

I know right, I gave up and moved to the evolv agro

[@ABSVabeautifulsunsetvlog]

I call bs on these people who say they downsize like 4 sizes. I think they probably wear shoes that are too big so when they buy climbing shoes they buy shoes that are closer to what their true shoe size is. Because I tried to size down like that and it was literally impossible to get my foot into the shoe (even with plastic bags and a shoe horn)...So yeah, that old school “my shoes are smaller than yours” is kinda stupid in modern times when the shoes are made of synthetic materials that don’t stretch nearly as much as the leathers of the past (why they used to down size). Plus I want to be able to walk when I’m 60....

[@xFCB4EVERx]

Depends on the brand I guess. With La Sportiva in downsized 2 shoe sizes, with Scarpa I don’t at all. Could downsize both even more but it wouldn’t be comfortable anymore and I ain’t no pro

[@bizmonkey007]

I’d say a downsizing of 2 to 2 1/2 sizes is more reasonable, especially if they’re not synthetic.

[@simonholmqvist8017]

For some reason it feels like climbing shoe companies size their shoes based on their lenght and width, and not on which feet they fit. And since climbing shoes should touch your toes, or rather hug them very strongly, which normal shoes, running shoes for example, do not, it makes sense to downsize when they're supposed to be the lenght of your foot and not that plus 1cm extra.

[@sethrich5998]

It definitely highly depends on the brand and material of the actual shoe model. I think many climbing shoe brands way oversize to begin with, because people think a smaller number size is more performance. Not many use street size as an actual proper fit, rather street size fits loose like a street shoe, which nobody wants. In La Sportivas I definitely think you need to go down, they run big at street size. I have a wide forefoot but smaller heel, I wear size 10 (43) hiking boots (which tend to run wide) and 10.5 - 11.5 (43.5 - 45) street shoe depending on how narrow the model is. In TC Pro I wear a 42.5 to be snug after break in, could go 43 for longer comfort. So those were at least close to hiking shoe size. In Solutions I had to go to a 42.5 before they even start to feel snug, and 42’s would be good for still being comfortable for an aggressive shoe, my preference. For just bouldering I could fit into a 41. So if that’s the case and you look at my size range of regular shoes that’s 2-4 sizes down. That’s without trying to go smaller than I could easily get my foot into. I’m also a relatively new climber and I’m sure more experienced guys like to go smaller than I do.

[@simonholmqvist8017]

@@sethrich5998 I personally have 39,5 eu size in climbing shoes, and 44 eu size for my asics, or in other words: 25cm for my climbing shoes, and 28 for my everyday's.

[@Owmarsh12]

yes! the shallow heel with the solution toe is pretty much my dream shoe. I didn't buy the solutions because of the heel and instead went with the Butora Acro Comps. They seem to edge and smear aobut the same, but the butora heel works better for my super long, narrow food

[@philipppuchner1115]

Nice video! Looking forward to the video of the new La Sportiva Theory + the new Scarpa climbing shoes! :)

[@WeighMyRack]

You got it! I just watched the rough cut of the Theory video that Andreas finished today. It's an extra special video... coming on Tues! -AD

[@iamillasfuck]

I recommend sizing down only 1-3 sizes. From 44 to 42 in my case. Do not size down too much!

[@WeighMyRack]

Thanks for the info, it'll make others' buying experience better.

[@heeroyui9439]

@@WeighMyRack I'm confused how you are even possibly fitting 5x downsize onto your foot. I have my theory in size 41.5, my solution in 41, and my mantra in 40 from a comfortable 44 street shoe. If I went to 39.5 on my mantra, I would have to break the shoe to get it on my foot. 40 is the absolute limit I can fit my foot into for a mantra. I tried a 40 miura, and it is physically impossible. I could get into a 41 theory, but it would have been extremely painful to break them in(41.5 resulted in my pinky toe skin being torn off) and I'm not sure they would perform as well on the problems they are most suited for with such a tight fit. I could for sure get into a 40.5 solution, but anything beyond that honestly seems like it is fake. Like are you actually sure about your street size or is this blatant misinformation? It is physically impossible to downsize from a 44 into a 40 miura vs. I wish people were better at sharing their shoe fit in the climbing industry. People say "I sized to 36" but then never mention their street size. What's the point of even telling anyone your climbing shoe size if you aren't sharing an accurate street size?

[@AMM1998]

The new heel is how the original solution should've been designed. As for the toe patch, it looks like the same amount of rubber as the old model. The are so many shoes like evolv x1's, madrock drones, 5.10 Hi angles, Drago's and furia's that all have better toe hooking than solutions.

[@Cacovangor]

Andrew M agreed, had the solutions had this heel I might still be wearing them.

[@helsinkigames7508]

Agree however, gotta remember that different shoes simply fit different people! The furia’s are amazing shoes, however 5.10 simply don’t fit anymore....also find the build quality quite poor nowadays:/

[@AMM1998]

@@helsinkigames7508 yeah I've heard the quality has dropped since adidas took over. I was only referring to how much rubber the furias have on the toe box, not how well they fit. When I heard there was gonna be a comp solution with more rubber on the toe box I was imagining most of the upper to be covered. What they came out with is kind of underwhelming. Looks like they made the rubber patch a few mm's wider and that's it.

[@masonluedke9712]

I heard from a la sportiva booth that they are less comfortable and dont last as long, do you agree with them?

[@elaihsanzo9863]

I’m getting a Scarpa Drago vibe from this version.

[@ScorchGER]

Why use these bands again? these things kept tearing apart on the old solutions..

[@Cacovangor]

ScorchGER the newer bands are thicker but the bigger issue is a lack of anodized eyelets which means those rust and therefore become coarse. I converted an old pair of Futuras to use a halved shoe lace by adding two eyelets where the band is sewn in towards the toe and two more towards the heel with a simple knot to secure the tab. The lace is stronger and easily replaced with the benefit of being adjustable in length meaning a low volume foot does not need to worry about the velcro tab hanging off and catching. Then again, every shoe should be laced, part of what brought me to the Chimera and Mago.

[@SeaBear161]

I'm just saying 14d was established before shoes were very stable, you don't need to torture your feet to climb hard.

[@MrHappy-oq7ot]

i want the old solution with new heel,is the 510 highangle a good replacement? my feet are narrow with tiny heels

[@ferdiedenboer2526]

Very interesting changes, will be sure to try these out

[@philipppuchner1115]

Yes, but not for me, since the shape isn't changed. I need something a little wider + not crushing my toes that much. The normal Skwamas are too wide for me and too big in every direction, doen't matter how small i size them. Also the heel is this enormous volume like the Soliutions heel. BUT: I love the Skwama Women's! Perfect! The heel volume (which is like the Sportiva Otaki) could even be a little lower for me, but it is so much better than most of the Sportiva balloon heels. I personally like the now 23(?) year old Miura heel better than most of this other crap. Too big, too hard, no feeling. Since the shape stays the same and the volume of this new heel on this new Solutions isn't decreased DRASTICALLY, it's not an option for me. But with the Skwama Women's I've found my Bouldering + indoor weapon. Training indoor lead with the good old comfy Cobra slippers - excellent! :)

[@channele9999]

Hi there! How is the fitting? For narrow or medium/wide foot? Thanks!

[@cillijed4291]

my solutions still seem to bow out quite well

[@Cacovangor]

Cilli Jed be mindful “life of the shoe” is a curious term. If you climb more than every other day, the rand does not have appropriate time to return to shape, especially if you climb in a single pair for the day, and more especially if you do not remove your shoes whenever not on the wall. Buy two pair.

[@yaelperez817]

I honestly cant dicide , should i get a solution or a solution comp

[@callumchater9750]

What did u end up getting?

[@yaelperez817]

@@callumchater9750 i ended up buying the solution comp and i personally prefer the solution

[@callumchater9750]

@@yaelperez817 im thinking of getting either the solutions or solution comps, i do alot of overhang and edgey type indoor climbing, should i get the comps or the regular solutions?

[@yaelperez817]

@@callumchater9750 i personally preferthe solution and honestly didnt really like the comp, but i know allot of my frindes prefers the comp , i think u should try them on befor u by them and then dicide for yoursel

[@yaelperez817]

@@callumchater9750 i am not sure about the comp but i know for sure that the solution are great and i honestly would recommend those to enyone

[@clayhannn]

So would you say these are not outdoor shoes?

[@WeighMyRack]

These are totally fine for outdoor use. -AD

[@sebachan]

he sizes down 4 to 5 sizes.. holy crap!!

[@sebastianflynn1746]

Euro sizes, I do the same.

[@doublevgreen]

yes you basically need to downsize that much if you wanna climb hard

[@philipppuchner1115]

@@doublevgreen depends on the footholds and how stong your feet aka calves are. In La Sportivashoes you size 1 full EU size more down, than in current Scarpa climbing shoes. In the latest Magnus Midtbo video, with Heinz Mariacher and Nathan Hoette, they say going down 1 to 1,5 sizes max (everything in EU sizes, because Sportiva and Scarpa make shoes in half EU sizes). especially very soft shoes, because you would pull the rands over the outsole etc. You get a stiffer shoes when wearing it so tight. So, what's the point? If you need a more supportive shoe, get one. Don't try to destroy your soft shoe as fast as you can by making it a stiff shoes due to extreme downsizing! Only Adam Ondra in his video goes 4 (EU) sizes down. Everyone else less than that. I mean, ok, for some footholds on V16 Bouldern you probably NEED Solutions -3,5 EU, but how interesting is this for the average climber? + You have no flex in the foot any more, it feels like you are climbing with a brick! + You ruin your toes and feet. Very unnatural position of the feet, held by force. kzbin.info/www/bejne/goOTan56fdR5m6s talk about sizes is starting at 18:14 there

[@doublevgreen]

@@philipppuchner1115 i have downsized my miuras 4.5 sizes and i feel like this has boosted my performance significantly on those small frankenjura footholds. But i see your point with the softness getting lost in more soft shoes

[@philipppuchner1115]

@@doublevgreen Miura Lace or Miura VS? 4,5 EU sizes from your true foot size (measured, because street shoes differ greatly in sizes and also people wear them differently)? Mine are measured: 44.5 left foot, 45.5 right foot. Or, self measured with a piece of paper with UK sizing: UK 9.5+ left foot, and in the middle of UK 10.5 and UK 11 for the right foot. Directly: right foot 8-9mm longer than the left foot. So, 1 full UK size difference is appropriate i think. . So, per foot i size at the time: Sportiva -2.5 EU and Scarpa -1,5 EU. --> So Sportiva 42/43 left/right ;; Scarpa 43/44 left/right. Exception: the old(!), yellow Sportiva Katana VCS -3.0 (41,5/42,5 left/right). Skwama Women's I just have a Pair of 42. There isn't a bigger size in these, but that's okay, for indoor bouldering anyway, but if there would be the sizes up to 43 like always with Sportiva (i think they just recently descided to make new low volume shoes (marketed as "women's version") just up to size 42 and not 43 any more), i would have gone with 41,5/42,5 left/right. Scarpa Boostic is 1 full EU size shorter in length than other Scarpa shoes, so in this just -0,5 instead of -1.5. There is a comparison online with an Instinct VS and a Boostic in the same size next to each other, and the Boostic is significantly shorter! Also it is a very hard shoe, also the Lorica in the toe box doesn't change the slightest, also not after resoling once. Just the shaft made of leather (or microfibre/leather combo) stretched a bit, so i think my Boostics have just gotten "longer" with use. . If you climb hard on short routes on very small footholds: Yeah, I could cram my feet inside new Miura VS in -3,5 EU, but not for long, so, just for the redpoint burn. But the things i can climb, the shoe doesn't matter that much. Or: If i change the shoe, i cannot climb anything harder because of it. Because the limiting factor is me, not the shoe or the equipment. Mostly your fitness combined with beta, technique and flow, mental state of mind (fear of falling sketchy) and probably a shit belayer who shortropes you all the time with every clip (i so goddamn hate that)!

[@natewinoutdoors]

When will it be available to purchase?

[@WeighMyRack]

Should be May/June timeframe for US. It should be earlier for Europe, because they need to release the shoes within a certain timeframe before the Olympics for them to be able to be used in the Olympics. -AD

[@eleventhirtynine]

great info.. why is the comp pd75 and original pd80

[@MrHappy-oq7ot]

for better slab/smearing in competition bouoldering

[@JrMinnimastr1]

please just make the straps wider .... great shoe but them tearing all the time is just way too annoying

[@Teeziel]

here's a shoe that we label Olympic so we can convince people to pay an even higher price than what we already charge.

[@RubenP91]

Why keep the women variants so women-orientated in coloring if so many guys like them? Ok coloring doesnt matter that much but still why not choose more gender-neutral colors? Anyways looks like a better solution to me, might give em a try!

[@WeighMyRack]

Good question! This seems to be the Italian way. We've asked this question a number of times, to every climbing brand, and it's usually met with a shrug or "why does it matter?" kind of response. We've also been told that the retailers really like, and ask for, more obvious colors. Apparently, the more typical gender-orientated color schemes make it easier for retailers to sell shoes and/or look better on display. I can see how this is true for newer climbers, who may be overwhelmed with the options and need an obvious place to start, but it's harder for me to understand the relevance for more experienced climbers. -AD

[@philipppuchner1115]

@@WeighMyRack Yes. That's because of all the brainwashed people. For example: Woman goes into (climbing)shop: "Is there also a modell for women"? And THEN you can say: Yes, there is! ESPECIALLY for women! And then the customer lady thinks yeah, nice company, they built something JUST for ME. Of course this is bullshit. It is like selling a bottle of water with the tag "for women" for a higher price. And there are enough brainwashed idiots who then think, well, it's better (for me), because it says "for women". Sad this capitalism victims.

[@trevornagler3919]

I basically have the opposite complaint. I think with lasportiva the women's colours aren't particularly feminine and almost across the board look nicer. I find the same in a few cases for other brands too. I would much prefer the women's colours for the solution and solution comp, as well as the Skquarma. The Futura colours are equally nice to me. Also, the newer 5.10 tennie approach shoes look soo much better for the women! I don't think I have a taste for feminine things/ colours in general at all. It supprises me that someone could think the colours aren't gender-neutral enough! I would like to see both colours available for both the regular and LV, athough I understand this may well push up the cost of the shoe and ultimately, I don't care enough about how the shoe looks to pay more for it!

[@jonathanfaller1894]

Personally I think the red looks better than the yellow anyway🤷🏻‍♂️

[@weebig]

Stop going LV, please create a solution High Volume. I would literally buy 3

[@MrHappy-oq7ot]

buy skwama

[@nurusmeets3370]

adam ondra should wear this for his competitions recommend adam to use this send one to adam

[@hyau23]

He already does, he wore them in the world cups this year

[@WeighMyRack]

@@hyau23 Thanks for the info. I wasn't really paying attention but I didn't notice he was already wearing them.

[@philipppuchner1115]

@@hyau23 Yeah, as if the Athletes weren't the first to get the new stuff :rolleyes They are also often involved in the development process itself.

[@SeaBear161]

why is it so ugly ;.;

[@mikelabbee]

Do NOT buy this shoe. The strap design is flawed and the grommets wear through the strap very quickly. You cannot repair it yourself - you have to take to a cobbler to have a new strap installed and La Sportiva refuses to warranty the product. They claim it's "wear and tear". I bought a pair for my son and the straps broke in 4 months (indoor climbing only). La Sportiva customer service has been completely unhelpful (and kind of rude, to boot).

[@JrMinnimastr1]

please just make the straps wider .... great shoe but them tearing all the time is just way too annoying