Welding (Chemically) PLA and PETG

[@TheWindGinProject]

Ron; Good Info / Thanks - I just checked my can of Weld On #4 and it was empty. I guess a glass bottle will be required. I think the metal screw top may not be as good of a seal as a glass bottle top. Not sure. Also I wonder why I picked Weld On #4 and you picked #3.

[@Robonza]

I am glad you found Weldon, its my favourite. I use a syringe with the Weldon 3 but mostly I use Weldon 16 as it is much more convenient to handle and apply.

[@Andersoncust]

Ron, I love your videos! You inspired me to add a 3D printer to my woodworking tools last year. I now have two! A couple of days ago I received a glue looper that is amazing for applying a precise amount of glue in a precise place! The large size works best for me, but you can get an assortment on Amazon.

[@RonaldWalters2010]

Never heard of a Glue Looper before. I'll check it out. Thanks. Ron

[@KRGraphicsCG]

I've been looking into ways to chemically weld PETG together and I think Weld On 3 (or 4, which has a slower cure time) will be perfect for what I'm working on

[@MrHotjag]

Did it work out?

[@KRGraphicsCG]

​@@MrHotjagunfortunately, I haven't tested this out yet. I randomly came back to this video to remind myself how to glue PETG with Weld on 3... And yes, I will be buying small glass jars

[@MrHotjag]

@@KRGraphicsCG I've tested weldon 16 and it works really well

[@myfordboy]

I have used that first product. DO NOT DEAL WITH THAT COMPANY. The product is good but they don't answer emails. The first time I ordered some it came in a glass bottle. the packaging was just an ordinary envelope. so it arrived smashed to pieces. I have also since had the problem with the contents escaping through the p[plastic bottles. i recommended it to 2 friends. Their orders never arrived and they had to get refunds from paypal. No Weldon available in the UK as far I can see.

[@RonaldWalters2010]

Thanks for sharing. Ron

[@sammybaby1413]

I am a Model Maker by trade. I specialize in the glueing of plastics in the display industry. If you brush the solvent on the outside of the part it makes it stronger. Or at least do the inside. Sometimes I'll just dip the whole piece in Rez-N-Bond really quick and shake it off. This way I can sand the part and do the finishing.

[@DrMoofK]

Okay, so now I know what to post process my parts with. I wonder just how much strength you can get by finishing just the outsides of parts with this.

[@RonaldWalters2010]

That does help (sometimes) especially with thin or threaded sections. Sometimes I will chase a threaded area with a tap or die and then dose it with the solvent to smooth and strengthen the results. You do need to leave it sit long enough for all of the volatiles to evaporate (overnight). Thanks for watching! Please subscribe. That is what keeps this channel going. Ron

[@bryanpalleschi1606]

Awesome video and thank you. I have been making some cosplay over the years and epoxy just causes too much extra space and parts don't fit together properly. Maybe you can help me out here... the PETG parts I am looking to "weld" are only 2-3mm thick on each end and between 6-10 inches long. I will be doing 100% infill. Any advice on trying to join pieces with a relatively low surface area? Thinking I can also use Flex Tape or duct tape to hold them together when curing and the chemical eating through the tape wouldn't really matter...

[@RonaldWalters2010]

I assume you are using PETG for a reason. PLA is certainly easier to print (in my experience anyway). The Weld-On solvent shown in this video works equally well with PLA and PETG... but a butt joint is never going to be strong. I suggest designing your parts with “lap joints” (google it if you don’t know what I mean). If the parts are 2-3mm thick, make the laps 1-1.5 mm thick. If you are designing your own parts on CAD you can also use pins and matching holes in the joints for alignment. Hold or clamp the pieces together… the Weld-On will wick in between the parts and almost instantly join the pieces. Add a bit more Weld-On and let it cure for a while and you are done. Also, Weld-On will not give you that white fog that you can get with super glue. Depending on your parts you can arrange the lap joints so they print flat on the printer bed and will not require support material. Using Weld-On outdoors or with an exhaust fan is a good idea, especially if doing a lot of gluing at one time. Practice and experimentation is key here. Have fun!

[@MRrwmac]

Sounds like you prefer this over Bondic - haha. Glad you showed us the newer one we can get in the better metal container. I think I may try it. How long to cure a small let’s say pencil eraser size area? Does it work on anything other than the particular plastic you printed (PLA I think you said)?

[@RonaldWalters2010]

I have tried PLA and PETG but it will work with a number of other plastics. Only take a few minutes for very small parts.

[@RonaldWalters2010]

Never a good idea to leave your email address in a comment. You can go to my channel page… About… then lower left hand corner… View Email Address and send me a message. However, I don’t always remember to check that email address very often. You can Google “Weld-on 3”. You would need to source your own glass bottle. I offer the holder for the glass bottle I happened to have which is a small model paint bottle. Thingiverse is where I list the stl files for those who have 3D Priters. Anybody can download a thingiverse file. You do not need to be a member.

[@MRrwmac]

@@RonaldWalters2010 Yes I know not a good idea for email but on my iPhone your email address in the About page on KZbin didn’t show. That’s why I had to chance it. I sent it in hopes that you might contact me via email.

[@limbeboy7]

Who would've thought that a fluid designed to melt plastic would melt plastic 🧐

[@RonaldWalters2010]

Yep... Who'da thunk it? :-)

[@MaxSnelling47]

This is good information. I have not been happy using super glue (CA) on PLA. Thanks for the video.

[@newdeal_99]

the problem with these water thin chemicals is that not all parts have a smooth enough contact area unless you clamp them. If you clamp them it works great, if not its hit and miss

[@onetruth9869]

I think, the reference to the poly weld should be removed, from your description on thingiverse. Your comment in that description, seems to be at odds with the reality of the product performance overall. Just a thought. Will be looking into welcon. Thanks.

[@RonaldWalters2010]

Good point and one I forgot about. Thingiverse has not been very user friendly since they came up with the "New And Improved" website. Half the time I cannot access my own listings. Anyway, I made corrections to the description for the elliptical bottle holder. Eventually Thingiverse will process my update (I hope). Thanks! Ron

[@onetruth9869]

@@RonaldWalters2010 meant to add, that the actual holder design is still very nice IMO, and should still be useful to many. BTW, looked at Weldon MSDS, and it is just as bad as the first product, but at least it doesn't, cause auto exposure by vaporizing through the container to harm anyone. Personally, I'll stick to mechanical attachment anywhere I can.

[@tonywatson987]

I made the mistake of ordering some methyl chloride to bond Lucite/Perspex, which came in a polythene bottle - it completely evaporated over the course of a couple of months, by osmosis I assume. It was cheap, but it absolutely needs to be transferred into a glass or metal container to be stored for any length of time.

[@WaschyNumber1]

Acetone for both 🤔

[@TechExploresNYC]

The chemical listed in the first bottle sounds like what's inside the 2 part epoxie glues so they are of course all carcinogenic. The company could've at least sent you a boiler plate letter explaining the P65 warning I guess.

[@jeffferguson9610]

There's very few adhesives out there that aren't known to the state of Cancer to cause Kalifornia. The Weld-On can I have has a 65 warning on it

[@maxreynolds679]

Thanks Ron!