What did Victorian Women wear to Afternoon Tea? // Examining an Antique Victorian Tea Gown c. 1880

[@AbbyCox]

For all my Metric Loving Buds - I'm sorry I forgot to add the metric conversions to this video! 🙈 So here they are - I estimate the woman who wore this gown was 5'0" which is 152cm (for the side by side I am 163 cm tall). Her bust is 40 inches (102cm) and her waist is around 30 inches (76 cm). Also, while this dress *is not a tea dress* I figure the weight of the silk used in my tea gown is similar or identical in weight to the Thornycroft Dress that Dr. Calvert writes about here: robynecalvert.com/2013/11/24/the-thornycroft-dress/ (in case you want to read more about silk weight, aesthetic dress, etc.) Dr. Calvert has also done a lot of research on tea gowns and their relationship with aesthetic dress. It's made me realize how special this tea gown actually is...and I now I nerd out hard over her. 😍

[@samanthakessel7285]

I am sorry to comment on this but that is the WRONG DOCTOR! Other than that I love your videos!

[@lenaeospeixinhos]

What a gorgeous gown! ❤ thank you for analysing it for us with such detail 😘

[@somethingclever8916]

I love that blouse matches the dress Was that intentional?

[@stevezytveld6585]

Thank you for your diligent work on Captions. I know they're allot of additional work, but So useful. And thank you for the Metric-ing. Metric - the reason my primary school teachers didn't teach us fractions ("we wouldn't need them"... really). Happy Canada Day. Please google Canadian Indian (& Inuk) Residential School System (includes All of the Trigger Warnings). We got a whole lot of work to do. Happy American Day. Thank you for choosing Democracy. That silk is amazing. Good find, you! Thank you for the lessons. - Cathy (&, accidently, Steve), Ottawa/Bytown

[@AbbyCox]

@@samanthakessel7285 I know - a patron commented on it and I am *deeply annoyed with myself* for the mistake.

[@jac8313]

Sometimes I get stressed because I don’t know what to wear to a tea social, but then Abby shows up with exactly what I need. Will I be overdressed? 100%. Will I look better than everyone else there? 100%.

[@haileymarie7866]

I'm going on a picnic, do you think a dress like this overwhelm my friends? Probably. Do they expect it? Absolutely

[@Jassiepoohbear]

I really like your attitude!😂

[@liv97497]

Honestly, I'd rather be overdressed and fabulous than underdressed and boring. Every single time.

[@stevezytveld6585]

Enjoy your strut. - Cathy (&, accidently, Steve), Ottawa/Bytown

[@trulyAmatulHaqq]

You should make friends with some lolitas haha. You'll never feel overdressed!

[@elizabethclaiborne6461]

Does wearing my green velvet McGonagall dress robes around the house to serve cocktails count as a tea gown? It certainly looks like one. Know that I know what a tea gown is…

[@CandiceLemonSharks]

Did you...make a summer weight top to accompany the red wool curator's gown in this most scorching of summers? (I'm calling it the curator's gown now.) Also, that leaf print lining, my god. I *love* it

[@AbbyCox]

I'm gonna say, yes, yes it does count. Fierce AF. 😍

[@elizabethclaiborne6461]

@@AbbyCox Potions!!!

[@lacygrinnell6543]

well i don't know without a picture of the dressrobe

[@lindseywhite3371]

The colour of that gown is beautiful. I've just finished making a cardigan that exact colour!!! It's a shame her neck got shredded :( Matt Smith in a Victorian tea gown is EVERYTHING!!! Chef's kiss, thank you Abby xx

[@ragnkja]

I assume the collar was nice, since someone decided to cut it off and presumably reuse it. Too bad we don’t get to see it.

[@lucie4185]

She probably had some fancy embroidery on it to match the gown. 🤔

[@thehistoricallyadequatesea4395]

Maybe smocked, or lace matching the front ruffles!

[@vickierayhill4637]

You were selling that dress like you were in QVC. You go girl!

[@lucie4185]

Oh my god I love it! That orange and the super flowy parts! She really looks like she stepped right out of that painting!!

[@hollybeeme]

I love when you examine vintage garments! A couple things on this lovely tea gown: could this have been worn during some part of pregnancy, which might explain the loose front and higher waistline? Also, if the stand up collar was lace, it might have been removed for another use. I’ve bought my share of antique collar and cuff laces that were saved by thrifty women! One other thing that is not a criticism but a curiosity, is it common to genderize garments when discussing them? Love your videos, I always look forward to the next one!

[@mercymonroe83]

I know in the mid-19th century “wrappers” could be worn with an adjustable waist to accommodate a 🤰🏻 belly.

[@vmij6925]

Seeing her on the mannequin really does make it seem like it could have been for a baby bump in various stages. So intriguing!

[@lynn858]

You mean referring to the inanimate garment with gendered pronouns as opposed to “it”. Yeah, a lot of people who are particularly interested in garments do. I think it’s also partially because many historical garments were so heavily gender-coded. A shirt or pants from the 1970s onward… there are cues sometimes in design or print, and almost certainly in the cut, but it’s so much -less- gendered. I think it also feels like a bit of a connection to the person it was made for, and anyone it was later altered to fit. We can’t know the individual who wore the clothes (unless it comes with documentation of provenance), but the garment is a bit like an outer shell representing an aspect of someone’s life in the time period and society that individual lived. Some nuanced hints at the details of their life and personality peak through from stains, wear patterns, alterations, material choices, craftsmanship and where and how they allocated their best work. When you look closely and see the faint reflection of a person, the garment seems more than an object.

[@Khensani]

The fact that you can keep yourself from trying on all these beautiful garments is astounding. I’d wanna wear everything in your collection (and probably end up ruining them)

[@crow-jane]

If you ever decide to reconstruct this dress, I’m here for it,

[@gloriaash7511]

I’m not sure, as I haven’t watched the whole video yet, but orange on the 4th is in honor of the indigenous children that died in the mandatory “schools” set up for the children by the government. The horrible conditions were kept from the public. Even if this is a coincidence- it made me smile.

[@jayneterry8701]

🙏 very insightful.

[@whydosno1belivemagic]

The true horrors of Residential school have been public knowledge for decades. I say this as a Canadian. The information was readily available from the media, government, survivors etc. We all knew about the atrocities, we just didn’t care. I’m glad this issue is getting the coverage it deserves but no one can say this information was hidden from us. Saying this is not only false, it makes it seem like we’re outraged because this is news and if we the people had know of course we would have done something. The reality is that we knew, we did nothing and now we are trying to do better. That still doesn’t erase the decades where we sat back and did nothing. We are responsible for that - I am too. So if you’re Canadian, don’t say they hid this. The atrocities were the goal all along and this kind of narrative is how we let them get away with it.

[@janesmith1398]

@@whydosno1belivemagicEveryone did not know. Please don't presume to speak for an entire nation.

[@frannyhorvath1057]

I’ve recently found some Victorian recipes for afternoon tea, but having seen this, the picture will just never be complete without also having a proper tea gown to wear 🧐.

[@rhiannonstrickland8943]

Can you help me find some recipes? Any tips? I wanna know

[@frannyhorvath1057]

@@rhiannonstrickland8943 I’ve found old Godey’s Lady’s Books to be a goldmine in this regard, they’re available on archive.org. I’ve looked through every one of them from 1861 specifically, for some research, and they have a section for recipes in every issue. Hope this helps and you’ll be able to unearth some treasures too!

[@frannyhorvath1057]

@@rhiannonstrickland8943 Also, Household Discoveries (by Sidney Levi Morse and Mrs Isabel Curtis) and The Book of Household Management (by Mrs Isabella Beeton) have a LOT of recipes, among other wonderful and curious things!

[@TheDeerhunter316]

Saving this

[@tymanung6382]

Full program would also include tea dances--- different music song dance styles over decades and century--- late, 1800s Waltzes, etc. early 1900s Ragtime 1 step + 2 step, later 1920s version of Charleston, Black Bottom, Fox Trot, etc?

[@WBCRO]

I agree re “afternoon tea”. I read an article years ago that said the high/low descriptors referred to the type of table being used. A low tea was served on a low parlour table; it was the fancy tea we think of today with tea cakes and tiny sandwiches. A high tea was served on a regular table, with chairs around it. This was a full meal - what we would call a supper. The tea dress is gorgeous! I think I would gather in the loose front section, like Abby suggested. I would surely have a food or tea incident with it dangling. 😜

[@ragnkja]

“High tea” is still called “tea” in parts of England, particularly in the north, to this day.

[@redwitch95]

@@ragnkja Ireland too - my grandparents from the Republic always have dinner (cooked) at midday and tea (uncooked, usually sandwiches) in the evening, in terms of meals.

[@suzannax]

Looking at the fabric, I wish they had colour photos back then

[@bellablue5285]

Agree, this is such a vibrant set of oranges, if other colors had similar treatment that would be such a treat to see

[@KD-nd5gu]

This is such a great thought! Can you imagine if they shot the Devonshire, 1903 Winter Palace, and the Vanderbilt balls in color?? Today's Met galas could never!

[@LycorisWebb]

It’s so cool to see an extant garment for someone my height! This piece is absolutely stunning, I just LOVE tea gowns!

[@P3891]

I love tea gowns, they should come in back in fashion I would definitely wear one and I am not a woman lol

[@JariDawnchild]

I'm a woman who wouldn't be caught in a dress or skirt, but I'd have (and wear) a few of these lol.

[@P3891]

@@JariDawnchild I know right they look so comfortable

[@lynn858]

@@P3891 They do! But I require at least one pocket, or I’m inevitably going to set my phone down across the apt and not hear it when my guest needs me to come open the door so they can join me for tea.

[@lynn858]

@@JariDawnchild Comfy house skirts with pockets became my go-to, long before I considered wearing skirts in public. The pockets make all the difference.

[@fionafiona1146]

There are "banion" Scottish men's lounge robes that are even more leasurely

[@watsonmelon6575]

This is exactly what I need to show up people at a tea party, thank you!

[@SolveigMineo]

I love the fact that you mentionned the narrow width of the silk. Sometimes I wish we could find narrower fabric in the shops, with nice selvage. For projects like roman or greec tunics, it would be so good.

[@amberg6115]

Ooo I always love an orange gown! And the flowers! *chefs kiss*

[@RockinTheBassGuitar]

Great, now I need an orange tea gown, like, right now. Lol. I love this gown! 😍 Thank you for sharing.

[@TealCheetah]

Yessss give us all those construction deets!

[@ReneesatItAgain]

SOOO doctorish!! I hope you and BB remember I said it first ... I see yal on the Oscar winning stage for best period costume for some 1800s movie. I'm feeling that for reals! Thanks for awesome content!🌻

[@maddieshort8479]

The captions at one point read that the wool lining had been "eaten by moms" which was an extra little giggle in this video! What a lovely gown!

[@sphhyn]

LOVE the colors especially the printed silk. I would like to have a dress made in that fabric. Overall a beautiful piece.

[@halu959986]

I live for this colour! So many of my clothes are this lovely burnt orange and I am yet again feeling envious of your collection!

[@vincentbriggs1780]

Oh my goodness I love the leaf skeleton print on the lining! Delightful!!

[@dee-annegordon5959]

Love teagowns! They're always so flowy/drapey looking and somehow manage to appear both dressy and comfy.

[@nickbanale]

2:48 I did not know I needed to see the 11th Doctor on your channel, yet here we are. Even if Matt Smith is not wearing a fez here and FEZZES ARE COOL

[@JayneFury]

Except it’s the wrong Doctor. He did not establish timed wimey. That was Tennant.

[@nickbanale]

@@JayneFury fair enough... Can I interest you in a GERONIMOOOOO?

[@cinemaocd1752]

I just recently watched the Werner Herzog film Nosferatu the Vampyre and the dresses in that movie are from the aesthetic era. It's late 70s so while they get the silouettes and decorations, the fabrics are not good. I think it's one of the few times I've seen a movie with that era of fashions.

[@tulsiclarity3228]

i was just sad that i finished engineering knits new video so fast, but abby to the rescue! and a new examining, im so fucking hyped

[@Risaala]

I like how you matched your outfit to compliment the tea dress!

[@josephines.creatures]

Sooo... Basically this dress was made for my historical doppelganger. Short 5 feet, big boobs, nearly in my thirties, orange is my favorite color to wear, short waisted, the list goes on!

[@EmilyJustice]

Great video as always! The measurements (height and all) on the manequin was really fun for me because I'm 5'1" with a waist around 30" and a bust around 38" and so it was fun to see a historic dress for a woman with a similar build.

[@DawnOldham]

When you gathered the front piece of material the dress finally made sense to me. I wasn’t a fan until you pinched the fabric! What doesn’t make sense in 2021 is changing into what for us would be a prom gown in order to have a little snack before our late dinner! Lol

[@emilyperea]

My theory on the back is that the wearer was warming herself before the fire and scorched it (like Jo from Little Women!), and the scorched part was cut out and the Watteau pleat added to disguise the burnt place.

[@FrugalOverFifty]

Thank you for the Squarespace info - I've been thinking I need a website, but I'm stalling, argh. Love the dress details, there's nothing like looking at the real thing. ❤️

[@eastlynburkholder3559]

Decades ago, an orangish red shade was very popular for costumes on TV shows. This dress is a bit like that color that was used because it popped on the TV screen.

[@BeautifulShaving]

I've always wondered what I should wear to go to tea at a historical Victorian Tea House in the city where I live. Thank you Abbey, your vids are always so wonderful. I've been told that the Victorian Tea House in Idaho Falls, Idaho has actual vintage Victorian Tea dresses for visitors to wear to tea. I've never been there because I'm sure none of their dresses would fit me, so i plan to make my own custom tea dress to visit the Tea House. Ty for the inspiration.

[@fatsparrowsewing]

I love a good tea gown! My favourite Worth gown is a tea gown, the stunning 1897 green and black number 🤤 so pretty!

[@wisterias8408]

perfect to watch during afternoon tea today! thanks abby ❤️

[@Scapeh]

This is honestly so gorgeous- that colour of orange is just one of my favourites and it looks so stunning! What a beautiful piece to have in your collection. With it being so hot this summer, I'd definitely love to see a recreation sometime in the future.

[@daniward7141]

"She's short. I'm 5'4", she was probably 5'0. Her waist was basically at her underbust." OH MY GOD SHE WAS BUILT LIKE ME (more slender, but her shape is similar)! That makes me so happy! Also, your hair looks amazing in this video.

[@copper589]

Ooooo the color on that is amazing

[@battlebear437]

I just have to say that the Doctor looks absolutely stunning in that tea gown

[@CryogenicFire]

I haven't sewn a darn thing in absolutely forever, but I am an addict of your videos. P.S. The top that you are wearing is stunning 😍

[@sweetlorikeet]

This dress is SO interesting on so many levels! What a great piece!

[@lauraleighvickers5795]

Thank you for sharing this gorgeous dress. I love you you take the time to point out every detail. You also gave me a great laugh. I have a slight hearing loss and use the captions to help me follow along. When you are going over the wool added to the hem the captioning is “ the wool is that it has been destroyed by moms” 🤣

[@MsEJMcLaren]

So beautiful! You need to recreate this tea gown!

[@sarareimold3151]

I have been wanting to make a coat for this fall with tea gown aesthetic. Thanks for the details!

[@OverpepperedSoup]

I NEED the orange velvet one. Well, not need, but strongly Want. Someday, once I learn how to sew.

[@krysab6125]

WHAT A DRESS! Orange really isn't my colour, but I could get behind the, 'relaxed afternoon clothing' thing if it meant looking this extra! I guess a tea-gown is *sorta* the victorian equivalent of hanging out with your friends in loungewear when you'renot going anywhere (or turning up to a Zoom meeting while wearing a Pikachu onesie...not that I have EVER done that, no siree...)

[@textwanderer]

I always learn something new from your videos. It was really cool to see this tea gown and gain some insight into that style of outfit.

[@thetextilealchemist]

Ooh, that's very pretty! That bit of embroidery is a particularly sharp feather stitch,which I often use to mimic a vine, usually adding stitched flowers or leaves.

[@andocs163]

Watching this while washing dishes was therapeutic

[@SirAgravaine]

The fabric reminds me a lot of casual shalwar kameez from India. Obviously in a different dress form, but it does evoke South Asian and Middle Eastern patterns.

[@makeda6530]

I've never known the names of those but they're so pretty ( ◜ᴗ◝)

[@dulcierobertson7828]

Omg thank you from Scotland for knowing what High Tea is! TOTALLY separate thing 😂

[@Elemiriel]

AAAUUGHGUUHGH THAT TEA GOWN IS SO GORGEOUS and it lowkey reminds me of a pumpkin patch or Crimson Peak...

[@edengrey5004]

Do the Vale~151, in fashion of Silvervale. Sugerland as the sticky stuff. The "A Team" katolina first, Bernadette Banner on the back side, then roll out the ladys on the front/include Morgan and Noel, then Ginni D on the Diamond. Jimmy Fellon and Jimmey Kimmel and "Tenacious D" on the back side in that order.

[@MsHedgehog]

The weird center back alteration and ripped off collar reminds me of my early attempts of altering my own clothes. I kinda sorta knew what I wanted but had no clue about a good way of doing it, and halfway through I threw the thing aside in a drawer out of frustration. Never to be touched again.

[@lillyschneider2036]

i love how you refer to the dresses in your collection as "she" it's just cute

[@New_Wave_Nancy]

Did you dress to coordinate with the tea gown? Or was that an accident? Either way, loved the video.

[@esteraulrich-oltean2162]

Ahaa I noticed this and was wondering the same thing!

[@robintheparttimesewer6798]

I love the look of the tea gown!!! Thanks for showing us yours!

[@chrispe82]

Absolutely gorgeous! Have you considered making a soft body (like a pillow) dress form to combat issues like you had here?

[@georgebricker2224]

Love your work. Please do some Regency. I belong to the war of 1812 group in Southern Ontario Canada. Specifically the 22nd US Infantry. Yes Canadians portray American's. After all you need both sides to properly portray a battle. A number of us are civilian and would love to see what you can do for us. Again love your work. Thanks

[@francineh.7825]

Absolutely stunning gown!!! 💕

[@bonniebrown5094]

Omg everything your describing about the stature of the person it was made for sounds exactly like my body! I feel strangely validated somehow?

[@пекельніборошна-т1в]

I was using a 1890s vest pattern and I had a similar problem with the gaping, lol. I couldn't figure out where the bust was intended to go - perhaps, smoosed by the corset, because all the darts were in the waist. But I got D cups so that wouldn't work

[@rowanwax]

6:39 OMG! That happens to me! Learn something new every day…

[@greatlakesnarwhalmichellee4507]

This would be really neat to see you recreate

[@scarlettetheharlot8278]

I’m so glad to see one of these videos! Made my day!! Thank you Abby!

[@kjtherrick4031]

There are elements of the tea gown that are really nice. Personally, I'm not a fan of the train from the neck and would probably omit it. Are you planning to recreate it and wear your recreation? If so, I look forward to that/those vlog(s). Good luck with your website.

[@lindalavino1279]

I love the tea gowns & finding out how they were made!❤Philadelphia, Pa

[@lisablack9634]

I so look forward to your videos.

[@rachelstratemeier426]

You should pattern this dress and make it available on your website because I would buy it.

[@Rachrobrtson]

I’m 5’1 and could wear this, I love it!!!

[@BeerElf66]

Given how flowy and draped at the front the dress is, and also that the back appeared to have been altered, is it possible that this gown saw it's wearer through a maternity and post-partum period? I can see it being so much more comfy to wear at times like that, when you want to stay at home but you've got to take tea at a celebration of some sort.

[@monical.3892]

Yaaaay more dress dissection!! Love your collection videos

[@Wika-jt1rg]

This dress is so pretty! Loved the video, as always ❤️

[@detectivety1866]

Total chief wiggam moment. Suspect is pocketless. I repeat. Pocketless. LOL. Great video!

[@8Forester]

I love your outfit, Abby!

[@wildmntflower]

Her measurements are my corseted measurements (or my pre grad school weight measurements, lol). That's kind of cool! Take that, all the people who think people used to be tiny compared to today.

[@MonaSkovJensen]

This tea gown looks so beautiful! Thank you for showing all those delicious details on this garment.

[@kristynaplihalova]

I would love to see you construct copies of some of your historical pieces. I know that's a huge project, but would you at least give it a thought, please? I'd have my eyes glue to screen.

[@Ladyorion79]

When I saw that wool hem my first thought was dermestid beetles. I’m sure you know of them but just in case. They will eat anything made of organic material. (Wool, silk, fur, feathers…) We had to deal with them in the clothing collection at the anthropological museum I worked during university. At that time if a piece had an infestation we would seal it in a large plastic bag and deep freeze it for 2 weeks to kill the adults and eggs. Eggs were also fragile so when a piece was on display I would need to take off the cover and pat the garment down all over. I hope you never have them introduced to your wonderful collection. Oh, a sign of an infestation is a small brown feathery looking shed “skin” about double the size of a grain of rice.

[@FlybyStardancer]

Ooo that is pretty!!

[@BeeTrueBaker]

I'm watching this while sewing a shirt and wondering if sometime in the far future, someone will make a video critiquing MY sewing 😂😅

[@MamaMidnight98]

9:53 "... destroyed by moms." Not quite captions, not quite.

[@fiberterian]

I would have loved to see you talk about the lace on the sides. Was it clear that it wasn't original to the dress? I was hoping to see the lace up close.

[@skitdavitt]

That colour though!

[@bajubner]

The front of this with the very full middle makes me think it would have been worn with a sash or something to define it a little, but then that would obviously interrupt the flow of the pleated back and train? I'm so confused

[@bowerbirdstyle7661]

This dress is like a fancy dressing gown.

[@33goodwitch]

An adjustable mannequin might help to show off the dresses better. That way you have one for sewing and one for displaying:)

[@michellemybelle64]

THANK YOU for saying it’s not “high tea.” I work for a tearoom that specializes in afternoon tea and literally every guest calls it high tea…

[@LouAnne26]

I wonder if the neck was a big fluffy bow of the solid orange and someone wanted it for another outfit.

[@hattyburrow716]

Thank you. Fascinating

[@LottaLittlePuff]

I always get great sewing tips from these videos 👌🏻

[@gabrielleschiavo9078]

Love the Who insert, but you've got the wrong incarnation for the "wibbly wobbly timey whimey" bit, David Tennent said that, not Matt Smith ;-))

[@mce1939]

Abby: "She's real short. Probably about, like, 5 foot." Me, who is actually barely 5 foot: 😄😄 and 😥😥 (laughing and crying)

[@JessicaWilliams4774]

You have to make a reproduction of this beautiful tea gown!!!! You would look fabulous in it!!!!!

[@janehall2720]

I look at all the thought and care that went into making this dress and I am like "yeah, I bought a shirt for $12 yesterday in Walmart ". It makes me sad. My sewing is abysmal. Don't even ask me to hand stitch! I'm retreating to my room.