What is a Good Touring Bike

[@peterwilliamson4296]

I like the adapter you mention to allow a 44 tooth cassette. Your 34 tooth small front ring will give you awesome climbing. Many gravel bikes are geared way too high I think. Thanks so much.

[@christaylor1374]

All good advice. I also believe touring bike should be able to accommodate full fenders with at least 37mm tires. Fenders are your most important piece of rain gear. For safety and to avoid rubbing issues ensure 15 to 20 mm clearance and try to find fenders that have "emergency break-away" stays on the front.

[@brianbassett4379]

Nobody ever seems to understand how important fenders are. All I ever hear is how inconvenient they can be. I have had to remove my front fender once riding about 30 miles of sticky mud road. I wouldn't ride without.

[@VAMIRACING]

very helpful video! my two pence: cycling uphill is qute an effort in particular in summer and no matter how good your bike is :) less luggage and overall weight = more fun. for this reason, i would heavily recommend reducing the luggage as much as possible. my experience is limited to transalp tours of 3 weeks and i have been using 2x20 L bags on the back and a tent on top of it, adding up to 14 kg. I would try resist the temptation to stuff the bike with additional bags (agree they look good....) .....eg 2 low riders at the front including rack will add 2 kg to the bike to start with and you end up filling them with stuff you regret while cycling uphill. putting together a list of things you REALLY need, will help further reducing luggage on your next trips....

[@garymitchell5899]

Why are you stating the obvious, who doesn't know this?

[@iamKBCummings]

schwale marathon - went from San Francisco to denver without pumping them up or a flat

[@BlindDesertPete]

Good tires 10% faster at 15 mph. takes me 15 min to change a tube. Do the math. Look at what PBP and unsupported RAAM use. Marathon are for commuters

[@garymitchell5899]

@@BlindDesertPete No, Marathon are fine for touring. Subtle differences between tyre designs often doesn't make any real difference.

[@BlindDesertPete]

@@garymitchell5899 Sure they are fine, just slow. Like 10% could be a hour at the end of a long day. there IS a real difference.

[@anuragvarma905]

You have given my first class on touring bike I really enjoyed your video 🙂

[@CyclingHabit]

Glad you enjoyed it!

[@donnacampbell6967]

I have a compact chainring 50-34 on my cross bike which has become my tourer I'm swapping out the rear 11-28 to a 12-36 the rear derailleur is a Shimano 105 short cage. I have not tried it yet but I suspect I'll also need either a longer derailleur or the adaptor. The adaptor looks good never knew you could get them

[@thierrysf]

Great video. You should have mentioned that you prefered not to have hydraulic brakes but mechanical disk brakes instead, which are much easier to maintain.

[@alexmorgan3435]

No they are not. Total bollocks. They rub and need constant adjustment and frankly are crap compared to the braking performance of hydraulic disc brakes which are a lot more powerful. I had BB7s. They needed periodic adjustment depending of course on how many miles and through what conditions/roads/tracks you were riding. After a bit they would rub. Re-adjust. Then a bit later start rubbing again. Re-adjust. Peace for a bit. Then re-adjust. Can you see a pattern here? The Shimano XT disc brakes I now have on my bike haven't rubbed or squealed once in 30,000 kms of riding. They just work time and time and time again. They only maintenance I have done was a good clean when I changed the pads for new when the first set of fronts wore out. The rear set are still fine. They can also stop my fully loaded touring bike going down a mountain pass pretty quickly compared to cable disc brakes and V brakes time after time. The only better disc brakes I have found are Hope Hydraulic 2 pot callipers but they are expensive. Hydraulic disc brakes are VERY reliable. This idea that they fail is crap. My car or motorbike hydraulic disc brakes have never failed neither have my bicycle ones. The only maintenance have been fitting replacement pads. Discs as well on my cars. Rim brakes or cable disc brakes on the other hand ...................

[@Edvardas11]

@@alexmorgan3435 you can't bring the hydraulic brakes on a plane if you do that kind of touring and cable brakes can be fixed absolutely anywhere. Same reason you go for a steel frame on a touring bike - if it brakes you can get it fixed easily in any part of the world.

[@ImranWorldCyclist]

But you should have given the saddle choice a mention, the most important contact point of the bike

[@CyclingHabit]

Like I mentioned it in my previous comment, I decided to keep the saddle question out of this video as the saddles are personal choice. However, in my next video I will be comparing B17 with C17. Thanks for you comment, Imran!

[@graememorrison333]

Could have set it level too. Why is it pointing down? If anything, B17s need to be mounted 'nose up' to stop you sliding off the front!

[@belverticale]

Nice set up, looks similar to the Surly Disc Trucker I built up. One tip I can offer...use Gevenalle shifters (the funny ones on the brake levers), they are nice to use, very tough and also allowed me to a) stick with my Deore MTB toruing groupset for lots of gears - 3x10 with plenty of low gears (STI shifters not compatible with MTB groupsets) and b) Use MTB cable disc brakes instead of road cable disc brakes like the Spyre...the Spyre are good but there are many MTB cable disc brake options which work just as well. My Tektro Aquila work just as well as the Spyre but were much cheaper.

[@myfrequencies1912]

That is a beaut of a horse! I love what you've done with the gearing to give yourself the same ratios as you'd get with a triple chain ring. That's something I'd do if I hadn't already built my 3x10 system.

[@the1andonly]

Excellent video. Watched the whole thing and subscribed. I also built my own touring bike and have a video about it. Yours is definitely much more modern and very nice bike over all. Mine could be called a low budget option, but it has proved its worth over 8 years of touring and the simplicity is actually a big plus.

[@CyclingHabit]

Thank you!

[@yasboco]

Hi can you share the link to your video please

[@the1andonly]

@@yasboco Hi Mohamed, sure can: kzbin.info/www/bejne/kKemkptsaNFsack

[@TonyStCyr-ks7rz]

Excellent info on the next touring bike I will get, the rear gears and only a double ring front gear set-did not know,thanks

[@MrCarboxylate]

Nice video. I use a completely aluminum touring bike, which I developed from a hybrid bike. Can't say that it's uncomfortable, apart from the handlebar. I need to change it into something of the touring sort. The current one makes my fingers numb after a 1000-3000km tour. BTW, you seem like a fun man to ride with. Maybe we'll meet on some tour.

[@alexmorgan3435]

Try Ergo bars ends. Solved numbness in my hands particularly my left. Also try raising the handle bars a bit to take pressure off your wrists and hands.

[@marcinha1973]

I'm in the very process. What I've already done is replaced an adjustable stem for a lighter fixed 35 degree raised 31,8 mm and mounted an MTB rise bar, 680 mm wide with Ergon GA3 grips. SKS full mudguards. What this has done is maintained a very comfortable position, but added tremendous control over the steering. And it's all lighter too. Thinking about a carbon handlebar of the same shape. Mounted also Continental AT Ride tires, which are just over 500 gram each and have huge grip on all terrain and surface from tarmac through snow and thick mud. Ordered a lightweight 15mm thru axle air suspension fork with 75 mm travel, Novatec hubs and DT Swiss 545d rims / 36 hole setup. I expect the bike to weigh about 13,5 kg (without racks) once finished and it will be a way better and more durable ride than any of these dedicated touring bike. And cheaper.

[@heyhej1]

Also stretch before riding, it will help your circulation :-)

[@skyb8687]

Idk know why but I love a straight top tube on a legit touring bike, trek 920 old school 26,36 spoke,deore lx BOOM

[@sebakker5955]

I’m gonna use a full suspension recumbent for my trips

[@riverthecat]

Me too..l am doing plenty of one day tours to get myself ready for a longer trip on my Boardman Full Team Sport mountain bike..

[@fredbogdon505]

Gary Fisher Wahoo 24 speed. Great bike. Another favorite is a Motiv 480 excellent gearing. Kabuki super speed.

[@the1andonly]

Great video. I also built my own touring bike and it is quite different from yours, but the basics are actually similar. You can find a lot of good features in older mountain bikes and adapt them for touring. On thing I would ad to your bike are fenders, but this is a very nice bike that will make touring fun.

[@skyb8687]

Yup old trek 920,bridgestone mb series, long chainstays, but I have a very old cannondale aluminum touring bikes with 27 1/8 rims,been super reliable too,but old mtbs are best because they are so cheap to maintain anywhere

[@Zurgo-fl1kx]

Modified mountain bike with cruiser handles, rack, cruiser seat, and fenders. Of course I plan on adding an ebike motor to it and make it an ultimate off road tourer. Nice bike though.

[@thepandaman]

If we've managed to tour with our tandem on normal marathons (total combined weight about 200kg) they should be more than enough for any normal touring bike, let alone marathon plus.

[@williammacqueen1418]

Great video and advise. If in future videos you decide to elaborate further on bike and equipment choices, please mention seat choices. Thanks!

[@CyclingHabit]

I left the saddle choices out of this video because it’s such a personal thing, but I’m going to make a separate video where I will compare most popular touring saddles and give my review on them

[@steriophonic1]

@Cycling Habit when and where is your next tour, i love the true facts you come out with, you can be a bit grumpy, but who isn't i certainly am

[@CyclingHabit]

Currently composing my self for the round the world tour, possibly 2019, so watch this space 😋

[@lpandy21]

Thanks for your time buddy.

[@rogerdvorak6045]

We own 2 Schwinn High Serria mountain bikes. They don't make them like that anymore.

[@shenoyglobal]

Very good video!!! what is the best seat for touring bikes

[@CyclingHabit]

Brooks C17 or B17

[@demosthenes995]

Overall, what did this setup cost you, and what do you think it would cost for a beginner to make some of the changes you did? Also are there any modifications you showed that should be left to a bike mechanic or could it be done without any help by a beginner with some tools and some time? Good video.

[@robertrobhog]

Good and interesting video, thanks

[@recyclespinning9839]

Thanks for the tips I have a 1980s Schwinn Voyageur, Japanese made tange tubing. I had the older shifting changed to Dura ace brifters. It is for double chain ring. So I am going to have the triple chain ring changed.

[@aaronchilds4279]

In 2011 I spent an entire summer touring Scotland and Ireland on a stock '88 Schwinn Voyageur. Probably the most underrated touring bike out there. Update the components and it hangs with any modern steel frame.

[@recyclespinning9839]

@@aaronchilds4279 I ended up giving the Voyageur away. It has bad toe overlap. It was the Champion tubed version . I found a Schwinn Passage, with Columbus tubing ,, no toe overlapping and better fit . I had good componants and wheels, and put new bottom bracket. I am liking it. It fits wider tires, fenders, and racks . It is grey instead of blue and original paint.. i can't find much info on it ,, or where made..???

[@aaronchilds4279]

@@recyclespinning9839 , my '88 Voyageur also has the Columbus tubing and mine at least did not suffer from toe overlap even with full fenders and 37mm tires. The fact that it's a 25" frame probably has something to do with it, and I believe the frame was a different spec and design than earlier Voyageur bikes. I'm in the process of upgrading an '83 Miyata Six Ten. (The 23" frame honestly fits me better.) The Passage is an excellent bike as well. It was more of a sport tourer than a dedicated touring bike. Great for long distance rides with lighter loads. If I found one in my size, I'd certainly consider it. Best I know, the Columbus bikes were built by Panasonic in Japan, and are of exceptional quality. They're worth upgrading and very comfortable.

[@recyclespinning9839]

@@aaronchilds4279 I think the Columbus Tenax tubed ones have a different geometry the Champion tubed ones. The grey Passage I can't find any info outside of it does have a number stamped on the Schwinn Chicago badge in front and also on the bottom bracket. There is a possibility was made in the Mississippi plant. , or Japan. O guess would have to look up serial number. Either way I love the ride and that it fits wider tires. Also considering they are touring bikes they are relatively light weight.

[@lemonjuice3551]

Useful video, thanks :) Btw did you learn to speak English in Manchester?

[@CyclingHabit]

Leeds :)

[@loulou9879]

Beautiful bike, interesting video

[@riverthecat]

This is a really good vid..thanks..Did you bivee or camp on the trip to Lithuania ?

[@spinningtrue]

Nice video!

[@vermonthillsumc]

very helpful

[@elfredo70]

Steel is absolutly real but Steel is not stronger than aluminium. It's more elastic and flexibel than aluminium and it's easier to maintenance and easier to use even when it's broken. That's why you choose Steel. Best touringbikes ever built was Miyata bicycle. They had a mixed tubing with aluminium 7005 and CrMo forks back and front. Best of both worlds. Stiffness + flexy...

[@davepillar490]

Have one of those Holdsworth frames myself. Lovely to ride but paint chips far too easily on them. Good informative video.

[@CyclingHabit]

yes, the paint job is poor, i agree

[@richardgarratt9497]

I'm thinking of buying the red Holdsworth Stelvio...is there any difference to the grey and do you know if it a good frame...Can't find any info on the brand

[@punsaracable6453]

What is the different of gravel bike and touring bike pls.?

[@RussellCambell]

Good info thanks

[@jakobw135]

What do you think of Patria, Thorn and Koga touring bicycles?

[@neeleshkushte6023]

Why do touring bikes tend to have drop bars as against flat bars? Also, I see you have road tires on your bike. How do you cope on bad roads? How prudent is it to tour on an MTB or a Hybrid? Currently, I tour on a folding bike which I am very happy with. However, when I encounter bad roads (quite a norm in India), I do get apprehensive.

[@CyclingHabit]

Because flat bar is just a flat bar and nothing else. Drop bars offer you more ring positions. It all comes down to personal choice in the end. This is a road touring bike. If needed, i can put 45mm tires on it and it will cope with bad roads just fine.

[@neeleshkushte6023]

@@CyclingHabit Oh, good!

[@tomahawk7884]

Good Video! Thanks

[@fellspoint9364]

Very sweet looking ride.

[@CyclingHabit]

Cheers!

[@mosheanidjar4642]

good video

[@philipmarshall-cox2664]

Nicely presented video, but at least count the spokes in your own wheels! You have 36, not 32. I would say 36 is the minimum for loaded touring, which is what you seem to be talking about, especially as you have already dismissed weight as a non issue.

[@shenoyglobal]

wheel size is 700C or 26 or 29.. what is the best option for a 1000 mile ride mostly on pavement or dirt roads?

[@CyclingHabit]

700c

[@event4216]

It largely depends on your length and bike you use. Some people and 28" frames just don't mix well and well geared bike with smaller than 28" wheels could be just more fun to ride. So for non-tarmac rides I like more my 26" MTB, in city 700c wheels with skinny tires just tick all boxes (for me!).

[@ImranWorldCyclist]

Awsome informative video, very well put together with a great intro! 👍

[@brianbassett4379]

Your bike is too lite for me. Yeah, I know not the normal thing you hear about tour bikes. I wanted a touring bike that could "take" me places that I couldn't get on my own at 60+ years old. I also wanted to have back-ups and lots of options in necessary gear, unnecessary gear (luxuries), and outright toys. What I have assembled thus far is a bike that I can ride anywhere in America that bicycles are allowed with no paperwork, license, or taxing. All the while using a 750W (1 hp) center drive motor for additional power to the Rohloff Speedhub. I have climbed rough inclines fully loaded that "kids" 1/3 my age were learning painful physics lessons on as I rode by with a Fugoo XL speaker playing tunes they probably haven't even heard. I agree that you can ride your bike a long way, others have and are doing now, I just want it to be more fun, less work. I new addition of a 300W solar panel should open even more doors this spring and summer. I also just dropped off my single wheel suspension trailer today for modifications that will allow me to carry everything very securely. 2019 is going to be fun. - imgur.com/a/zXXlyuv

[@philiprayner1772]

what about using an adult tircycle for touring ?

[@weiwei1808]

Good

[@emiel1976ep]

Aluminium frames can be as strong, if not stronger than steel frames. Some highend touring frames are aluminium. The story that steel is stronger, is from when aluminum frames cane on the market. Those frames where terrible, but tgag isn't the case any more. So that reason is wrong. As you mentioned that a steel frame us easier to repair, than you would have been right.

[@willpalmer13]

Hey! Maybe it's my imagination, but why the difference in wheel sizes?

[@giovannicristiano8241]

Yes sir you kno what ur talking about 👍🏼✌🏼

[@mateusfontenelle1794]

what do you think of a touring bike with a single crown and 10 speeds in the k7? would work?

[@bikeme1969]

On the subject of steel frames for touring, what's your opinion on butted vs non-butted frames. You obviously get a weight reduction with butted frames, but do you sacrifice strength doing so? I recently worked on a mid '80's Japanese Maruishi Wanderer touring bike that was quad butted!! Beautiful bike and still standing after 30+ years but I don't know the history of this particular bike. It weighed in at only 26 lbs (11.8 kg)

[@CyclingHabit]

I don’t think butting steel tubing sacrifices on it’s strength at all as the extra material is removed where it’s not really needed...

[@benjaminpe0]

great video! what is the reason you don't run hydraulic disc brakes? is it for easier maintenance?

[@CyclingHabit]

I’m a huge fan of hydraulic disc brakes, however, this is a touring setup, and on touring bikes it’s all about easy repairs and part availability. In case of a brake down, it is much easier to replace a cable and housing rather than whole hydro setup.

[@alexmorgan3435]

@@CyclingHabit Also I don't think you can get STI levers for hydraulic disc brakes. Hope do a junction unit where cables from the STI levers pull pistons in the junction unit which then transfer the force via brake fluid in the brake lines to the hydraulic brake callipers. The Hope junction units are NOT cheap about £300. The unit is typically mounted on the handle bars under neath the stem or nearby. I would say hydraulic disc crakes are far more powerful than cable disc brakes and also far less maintenance as I get no pad rub or squealing at all with my Shimano XT hydraulic disc brakes. But I have a flat bar with MTB XT hydraulic brake levers. I have ridden many tens of thousands of miles without a single problem. Pads are really easy to change as well and they are self adjusting and both move whereas with cable disc brakes only one pad tends to move pushing disc against the other e.g. Avid BB7s.

[@wangdangdoodie]

@@alexmorgan3435 STI/Hydraulic combo levers are readily available from Shimano & SRAM and have been for some time.

[@alexmorgan3435]

@@wangdangdoodie Well you learn something new every day. Who would have known :@)

[@alexmorgan3435]

Nice looking touring bike, better than your previous Fuji which was not really up to the job. You have a much better rack, Tubus I think, no more Topeak rack. I looked at those and straightaway thought now long before it or a bolt breaks. Aluminium frames are pretty good these days every bit as durable as steel frames and tend to be stiffer and lighter, but can be a harsher ride although if you have wider tyres for touring this is not so much of a problem. All Koga touring bikes such as the World Traveller are aluminium. Never ever heard of one of their frames breaking or having problems. My Surly Troll and LHT are both steel frames although I have a Trek aluminium hybrid for touring which is very rigid frame and ride is also good but it only has rim V brakes not discs :@( so not so good. Also spoke count - 36 is best wheels are much stronger and hand built. Bottle mounts as well for drink and fuel canisters. Saddles - personal choice but get one that is comfortable.

[@beemrdon52]

Still rather have a triple up front. Smaller jumps between gears! You need the right tool for the job.

[@CyclingHabit]

I have cycled across Europe, and UK to Africa with bigger gears dude. If you need smaller gears for the job - that's fine. I know exactly what ratios are good for me.

[@beemrdon52]

@@CyclingHabit It' not about "bigger" gears, it's about smaller jumps BETWEEN gears. Re-read my post...dude.

[@jspate61]

looks like a nice bit of kit, though a touch on the pricey side. any thoughts on gear for those of us on a budget (question mark).

[@CyclingHabit]

if you're on a budget - never build your own bike. buy second hand or brand new, but dont build your own :)

[@MajorSpam]

Are there fat bike versions of touring bikes? Would something with a long wheelbase, like a Big Fat Dummy, be a good touring bike? Are there special forks that push the front wheel further?

[@CyclingHabit]

Check out Surly

[@chrisclark1761]

Why would you use dropbars on a touring bike ? Surely an upright position is more comfortable ?

[@CyclingHabit]

You can get same upright position with dropbars by raising the bars itself. That's why touring bikes have longer steering tubes. I find drop bars to be way more comfortable than flat bars because they provide more hand positions. You don't want to spend all day being in just one position. Drops bars are also better at riding in headwinds and descending.

[@SinnerSince1962]

That front wheel is a 36 spoke count, not 32.

[@stevebroom4246]

May I ask you what you think of the Trek 920 which I am thinking of buying? Would change the wheels as not keen on off road

[@CyclingHabit]

Solid and very capable bike! I like everything about it!

[@jasperedwards3341]

no steel fillet brazed lugs frames are the best

[@thattravellingguy]

Does the dynamo hub increase rolling resistance, this making pedalling more difficult, like the dynamos that are mounted on the frame at the rear wheel?

[@CyclingHabit]

It does increase rolling resistance, but just on paper. In reality you don't feel the drag at all.

[@zacharycat]

What about fenders yes or no? oh now i see someone asked already.

[@SinnerSince1962]

For those who want to know, the Schwalbe Marathons come in at 630g.

[@wilkbor]

Nice bike.

[@friarrodneyburnap4336]

I would add fenders...

[@janseemann]

Correct me if I'm wrong, but the Shimano derailleur only has a capacity of 37, right? So you cannot use all gears, or worst, break the derailleur, if you use the wrong combination. Wouldn't it be better to use a MTB derailleur (with a Tanpan to make it work)?

[@CyclingHabit]

Wrong. Capacity doesn’t mean much when you use adapter. With this setup i can shift to big-big or small-small without any problems. And that’s not even a long cage, but medium. I could even put a bigger cassette, something 11-42 and it would still work. I used an adapter because i already had spare road derailleur

[@CyclingHabit]

I even tried a small cage derailleur with this and it still worked, but when i shifted small-small the chain was one or two links two long.

[@heyhej1]

Great video :-)

[@pakdolan]

Tell me about your saddle. How to choose a good touring saddle?

[@GreyFoxTube]

Saddle is a individual choice. But you can find your ideal saddle. 1. In internet you can find how to choose right saddle width. Seat bones, rider position etc 2. Choose materials according to your preferences. A leather saddle if you are ready to care for it, otherwise an unpretentious synthetic saddle. 3. Consider the nuances: for cold weather, do not choose a saddle with a cutout. Choose a saddle with the correct mount type (round, ellipse, mount diameter). Etc

[@frangineshinigami]

i am planning my first bike touring and i am thinking about getting the giant escape 1. do you think it is a wise choice?

[@CyclingHabit]

It's OK for some light touring and fairly priced bike!

[@thomasmuller986]

Forgot Trail. 70-71°

[@Keyboardbeatz]

Still doing deliveroo? Do more of those vids please

[@zacharycat]

I counted 36 spokes at one glance i knew it was over 32. i think 32 would be fine on the front, with 36 in back.

[@tiltil9442]

36 (or what Sheldon Brown recommends)

[@ucohong7039]

Is it possible to modify a hybrid bike into a touring bike?

[@CyclingHabit]

In most cases yes!

[@marcinha1973]

The best touring bike is the bike you already have under the condition you love to ride it. Just need to stick a rack or two if it doesn't have them already and it's good to go around the world. Unless it has "innovations" like hydraulic v-brakes or 650B wheels. Then you might want to stick around large cities in highly developed places.

[@brianbassett4379]

I guess "best" is a subjective thing. I think in a touring bike best means most able to cover any terrain with as much load as you want from spartan to luxurious and in my personal case old. I would much rather have "too much" bike than "not enough bike" from riding city blacktop to Texas concrete to 80 miles of washboards and still be able to enjoy the day. - imgur.com/a/zXXlyuv

[@TiagoRuivo]

In yet to find a mechanical disk brake that works better than V-brakes... all the ones I tried where crapp.

[@CyclingHabit]

Correctly set TRP Spyre

[@weldonyoung1013]

Forget V-brakes, they are cheap & affixed in a bad location. Maybe, cantilever brakes are better but be prapared to wear out your rims.

[@PinInCruiZ]

@@weldonyoung1013 yes rim wear is the deal breaker

[@danhal9966]

Do you like GP5000 tires with latex tubes?

[@CyclingHabit]

Never ridden but i would get tubeless version of it

[@matthewgwinn6076]

what is a minimum chain stay length? wondering if my bike will have an issue with panniers?

[@philhouck3560]

There is no universal answer here. It depends on your foot size, the crankarm length, and the size of the panniers. I would consider 17"/43 cm to be the absolute minimum for a load of camping gear.

[@weldonyoung1013]

There is another advantage of longer chain stays - it will transfer some weight to the front wheel. I'd suggest a minimum of 17.5 inches, ideally 18 inches (45cm), but that can be hard to find. Also, once you considering transferring weight to the front end the steering geometry becomes very important, which doesn't appear to be a design consideration in modern tourin bicycles.

[@philiprayner]

so why could you not use a cruiser bike for touring

[@THEBLACKANARCHIST]

You can

[@nlicar]

Where I can find this adapter for rear derailleur?

[@CyclingHabit]

Look for wolf link

[@LeoInterHyenaem]

The popular notion of superiority of disc brake braking performance over rim brake ones is a myth. It's the hydraulic brakes that are that trump cable-actuated ones in performance (irrelevant in your case, as yours are cable-actuated). Compare the Magura HS-33 to any disc brake - you'll see there's hardly any difference in performance. The problem with hydraulic rim brakes is that they're too powerful for use with modern thin-wall, light, fast rims, especially carbon ones (again, not the case with yours).

[@wangdangdoodie]

The worlds top downhill mountain bikers would beg to disagree with you!

[@LeoInterHyenaem]

@@wangdangdoodie On the count that hydraulics are much more powerful and safer than mechanically-actuated brakes? Or that cable-actuated disc brakes are as useless as cable-actuated rim brakes? I cannot say that any of the old HS33 I've had My rim-brake bikes outfitted with was less efficient than any of My hydraulic disc brakes (i.e., Avid Juicy 5, Shimano XT, various Shimano hydraulic disc XTRs, Magura Martha, Shimano GRX 81x-series, Shimano Ultegra hydraulic disc, Sram Force eTap AXS). I can, however, say that the Magura HS33 were by far the lowest maintenance and decidedly the most reliable hydraulic (at least, for on-road use and loaded tours) brakes I've had to date (and that is quite a few). Some of My Magura HS33 -equipped bikes I used for 10 years, including for loaded touring, commuting, shopping, fast weekend rides, until I sold the bike(s) - none needed ever bleeding and all performed as flawlessly as My hydraulic disc brakes. Oh, by the way, the cable disc TRP Spyres that came with My Tiagra Salsa WarBird, performed a tad worse even than any of the cable-actuated rim brakes I've had on some of My old bikes. The Spyres were safer in the sense that when braking actually happens, they do not throw you over the handlebars, but in terms of braking power they were the worst of all.

[@LeoInterHyenaem]

@@wangdangdoodie There are a number of reasons that downhillers use disc brakes: while the likes of the Magura HS-series (particularly, the HS-33) are better suited for loaded descents over the tarmac (and are much lower maintenance), they're not the best choice for the sport of downhill riding, as they stress the rims too much for the said application. But then again, no disc or rim mechanical brakes are suitable for the application, as they simply aren't powerful enough (and rim variety, while very slow to stop, will likely throw the rider over the bars at the stopping point). Plus, most hydraulic disc brakes, while much more powerful than any cable type, are still rather unsuitable for the downhill application: they simply aren't heavy enough duty.

[@batterycock]

are you running a 26" front and 700c back? or illusion..?

[@CyclingHabit]

700c all the way dude

[@khushrowbharucha7438]

Could you share the cost of such a bike and its total weight please?

[@garymitchell5899]

I'd guess around £1k-£2k and 15-20 kilo. Need reliable parts on a touring bike and they're normally expensive and heavy, although not always.

[@anuragvarma905]

Why can't a mountain bike be used for touring

[@thebostonartist]

What’s the width of your tires?

[@CyclingHabit]

32

[@thebostonartist]

@@CyclingHabit Thank-you.

[@knizama3534]

I want to put 32 size tyres to my bike,but my friend always said,its not enough.u need to go at least 35.then,u are a big proove for me to show that 32 is just enough..thanks bro

[@jbirdperez6003]

nicce

[@guyledgerlp]

Considering running a similar set up on my touring rig im building, would using 52/36 be a huge difference? Or would it be slightly better on the flats and slightly harder to turn on the climbs? Is this going to be marginal - or should i really go for the 50/34 in your guy's opinion?

[@CyclingHabit]

Huge difference! Not even all super lightweight carbon racing bikes come with 52/36 and you're considering this for touring :)

[@kit-andriy-kit]

Hi, what is the size of the frame? What is your height ? thanks

[@CyclingHabit]

54 cm. I’m 174cm

[@kit-andriy-kit]

@@CyclingHabit Hello my height is 189 cm, 54 cm suits me? Thanks .

[@CyclingHabit]

Check manufacturers size chart for the specific frame

[@Hootyhoo-jq9vq]

Is that a 122 link chain?

[@CyclingHabit]

Hard to recall, but its a full length chain

[@nguyenmr8862]

Please tell me what is best width of tire for you for touring?

[@CyclingHabit]

Depends on road surface and personal preference. If you're touring in Netherlands 28mm could be plenty. If you're touring off road in Kazakhstan 38mm would be too narrow at times. It's very subjective.

[@nguyenmr8862]

@@CyclingHabit tks much man! Ive bought an used cinelli gazzeta Delta strada recently 700c up to 32mm tires wheel, you help me to be assured that i made a right choice

[@PinInCruiZ]

@@nguyenmr8862 I ride and bikepack with my 23mm tires everywhere - city, highway, gravel, country roads you name it... Just because it's the only road bike I have. It's not comfortable of course and you have to drop quite a bit of speed on extra bumpy roads but none of the surfaces above are "unrideable". They only come to complete halt at mud, (deep) sand and very chunky rocks. I want a touring bike now and I think 32s will be plenty for me.

[@garymitchell5899]

32 is a bit thin. Will be ok in some places but not everywhere. Need 38 off-road, really. But it's a personal choice.

[@GreyFoxTube]

@@CyclingHabit have you traveled before in Kazakhstan? I'm from Kazakhstan. I bought 2.25" tires for the front wheel and 2" Marathon rear tire for next year's trips :)

[@marcinha1973]

How much does it weigh (in kgs)?

[@CyclingHabit]

14kg

[@JheyVbee]

What size of the tire?

[@CyclingHabit]

700 x 32

[@JheyVbee]

@@CyclingHabit 32 can hold all your load?

[@lloydvodvarka6946]

i am training for a cross country ride east coast to west, finnishing in oregon. I am trainningg on a fuji monetrey, it will take me four years to be ready for the ride, in that time i know my ridding styles will get stronger and change, my question what is it about fuji bikes like the monterey that would not be good for the trip accross america.

[@philhouck3560]

There's no way to reply here because you supplied no information about your bike. The chainstay length is a key factor as is the type of ride you will have. If you're planning on carrying everything, it is best to have a bike that has the fittings for both front and rear panniers. Most production bikes will not have all the eyelets you'll need. In the time you'll prepare for this ride, you would be well advised to purchase a frameset that is designed for extended touring. You'll need at least a 17" chainstay length while 18" is much better. You also need a frame that can accommodate at least a 35 mm tire though 38-42 mm is much better. Two suggestions: 1) Velo Orange Campeur; 2) Surly Cross-Check or Long Haul Trucker.

[@hap5215]

lloyd vodvarka - Would suggest cycling west to east if at all possible . Assuming you plan on touring during warmer weather riding west to east the prevailing westerly winds will often be a tailwind versus the dreaded headwind . Best of luck on the trip ..

[@classicagaindairy4989]

Is possible to convert mtb to touring bike?

[@GreyFoxTube]

MTB to touring bike? No. MTB to bike for touring? Yes :)

[@Jacas1]

how much everything cost?

[@CyclingHabit]

Hard to tell because I had lots of components already. It's just over £1000 setup

[@ericvandewiele3333]

You forgot fenders!

[@softbingan]

You don't think a good set of mudguards is necessary?

[@CyclingHabit]

It is necessary. I have taken them off when i was servicing it and never put them back again :)

[@softbingan]

@@CyclingHabit never putting them back? That's interesting..

[@CyclingHabit]

Until my next tour, i mean. I wouldn’t set off without full length mudguards.. no way :)

[@softbingan]

@@CyclingHabit that's more like a pro! Otherwise I thought that you had moved to Africa!

[@vibin724]

Price

[@CyclingHabit]

It's a custom build using some parts I already had so hard to tell. Surely over £1000.

[@charliedevine6869]

So it is a straight up road bike...well almost.

[@CyclingHabit]

Road touring bike