What Is The Best Paint Brand for Warhammer?

[@Zumikito]

Some people thought that the army painter mini didn't have zenithal highlight, which is not the case - all minis had it. The part from 2:08 to 2:17 is a clip from a different video where I basically test dollar store paints (you can also see that the helmet of the mini is different and I have a diferent haircut). Furthermore, at 1:56 there is white from the zenithal highlight where I paint the green, although most of the mini was already basecoated.

[@ThePropSlayer]

Zumikito, don’t you think Army Painter pit you against every other mini painter KZbinr in order to promote themselves?

[@jamesonstalanthasyu]

Where is that video of using cheap grade school paints?

[@specific14]

Do you have any thoughts on cuttlefish paints from Creature Caster?

[@spacedock873]

I guess the message is that a good painter can make any of these paints work to an acceptable level with varying degrees of effort. The real question should be which paints achieve a given level with the minimum effort and maximum pleasure. This is particularly important for beginner/novice painters looking to start their paint collection and trying to decide which brand/range to choose. For an experienced painter such as yourself mixing colours from single-pigment paints is part of your skillset but would be daunting for many. If the paints are difficult to work with then the experience is not fun and the user is likely to be unhappy with the result. In the end they are likely to give up. So, having answered the question of can any/all of these brands achieve acceptable results (yes!) this leads to the next question of how much effort/experience/skill does it require to get these results with each brand? Maybe an idea for your next video?

[@Dragonfire-tn2jg]

Agree 100% i use paints that will cover in 1 coat not 2 or 10.

[@superfinalcountdown1]

I started painting miniatures with a Reaper paint set. It was miserable. I was getting poor consistency, I was daunted with working with bad paints, it really pushed me away from painting. Then I started buying more and more Citadel paints and it made a world of difference.

[@vesejir]

I believe it is answered in the video. Least effort and most pleasure are from AK and Vallejo.

[@DominionDee]

Agree 100%

[@joshfoss7407]

@@Dragonfire-tn2jg covering in 1 coat isn't necessarily a good v bad paint thing. Different pigments are going to have different opacity. both scale 75 and pro acryl are top quality paints and both can have coverage issues at times with various paints.

[@sanlitun2173]

I have tried them all. I prefer AK over Vallejo. The consistency of the paint texture is always spot on and the same for all their paints. Some Vallejo colors struggle with that and do not mix well or split easily on your wet palette. For Citadel paints you pay a premium for the worst container ever. Although their contrast paints are great for airbrushing.

[@1AngelAlita]

Agreed with everything. I actually also like some Army Painters (for example their skin tones) but you have to shake them like crazy.. ;-)

[@StorminWolf]

Try Liquitex inks with the airbrush.

[@luis2864]

Agree

[@thattabletopguy]

Recently I picked up some artist paint at my local hobby store and really prefer that over any of the more mainstream miniature paints. I found that mixing worked way better (thanks to your 3 color challenge video), the paint flowed off the brush nice, and it was much more economical. I got a 75ml tube for the same price as a pot of Citadel paint so now my next project is to see if I can pre-thin these paints with some matte medium and transfer them into dropper bottles so I can create, in a fashion, my own range of colors by mixing various blends of cyan. magenta, yellow, black, and white.

[@bluedotdinosaur]

In my experience, Army Painter has two caveats: 1. despite AP selling a wet palette now because it's an expected product, their paints are not formulated to work with a wet palette. They don't like too much extra moisture and break up. It's better to dampen your brush as needed for specific colors. 2. The binders in Army Painter must REALLY be shaken up well. There's a reason they started including steel mixing balls as standard. A lot of problems with AP come from them not actually being mixed well. In spite of the wet palette's popularity, I'm going to go against the grain and say: they aren't always all that. It's hard to control brush loading with a wet palette because the surface doesn't pull paint out of the brush easily. Controlling viscosity is also trickier with a lot of paints. Sometimes very annoying. The amount of dried paint lost on a dry palette isn't actually that much - paint is very thin. Just don't glop it onto the dry palette. Personally I've had great success with them and feel their color range is extremely well put together. There is more variety than most other brands, but not the excessive and unnecessary bloat in Citadel. AP doesn't invent new colors just to pump paint sales.

[@foxenstinevon.gaming12]

I know this is very late but I also started with army painter, and they have been the base for most of my armies. Plus the main reason I went with them is because finding Vallejo in the USA can be impossible and GW was super expensive. Recently however I’ve been using cuddle fish Color’s and have really enjoyed how their paints work and the Color’s available.

[@LeKrutes]

I have the same experience. Just shake alot. Especially the red paints.

[@ravensoulmetal8466]

You are correct, brands don't matter. Painters will always find what works best for their style. I think you proved that because all of these squigs are awesome but you had to adapt to each brand. Excellent video my man.

[@LupusGr3y]

After getting a lot of dried up or pourage like Citadel paints I switched to Army Painter which have been more consistent and cheaper. They have a few paints that don't mix well, but far more than Citadel. Plus their washes are really good.

[@gaolbreak1090]

I also primarily use Army Painter and I 100% agree. The vast majority of their paints are great and mix really well. The downside is that the ones who aren't great suck ass. There is no in-between. It's either fantastic or dogshit.

[@AceTaxiaGaming]

Currently 77 percent of my 144 paints are AP (going to drop a bit as I'm buying a bunch of Vallejo paints in bulk to fill out some color gaps) and honestly they perform as good as Citadel...better actually. Citadel Scale75 metalics always separate on my damned palette. AP: 3 seconds of shaking, add to palette= good for entire session AND won't be separated by next day. My scale75 Speed Metal however will buy a runny puddle after an hour and then evaporate to sludge. Never expect citadel to be mixed for more than 2 hours

[@tiltedmouse1972]

Vallejo ever since I started. love the feel and look of the paints.

[@TheArmyPainter]

Hey Zumi, again, love the feedback - watching again, it appears all of the other miniatures, you started with a zenithal prime. With ours, around 2:13, I notice you are applying ours over a pure black primed miniature. Obviously, applying greens, yellows, and reds are always difficult however they are made especially difficult when applied over a black primer coat. Curious why ours weren't tested over a zenithal prime equally, or is there something we are missing?

[@Zumikito]

Hey guys, the clip you are referencing is from a different video where I tested the cheapest paints that I could find (like from a dollar store) and those are not your paints that I am using there (you can also see that my haircut and beard there are different). Funnily enough, the squig miniature is perhaps the same (I think I changed the helmet though), because I had to strip it back then. Otherwise I used zenithal for each of the 7 minis, which you can see at the start of the video. Feel free to check the older video if you wanna confirm this. Thank you for the feedback though because I wrongly assumed it was quite obvious that it was a clip from an older vid 😶

[@TheArmyPainter]

@@Zumikito it’s easy to see why that may be confusing in the video. Thanks for the clarification. We’re happy to see that many of your viewers do enjoy our paints. And of course, our offer is open for you to reach out to help us continue to improve our products so that we can produce the best possible products for our gamers and honbyists out there.

[@Zumikito]

I have already sent you an email earlier this week!

[@TheArmyPainter]

@@Zumikito great! I’ll await our mail team to send it over.

[@michaelchen9297]

Your madd skillz made every squig look amazing. The paint job you did using Army Painter made me feel slightly better for having so many Army Painter Warpaints.

[@zackcook5123]

I'll be honest I like this, personally I learned about a year ago that skill matters more and that some brands have stand out paints. I've used Army Painter, Citadel, Vallejo model and game colour, some pro acryl, green stuff world and P3. I pick up the paints I like, the bulks Vallejo but I've had some issues with the metallics. I really like P3 metallics and like the reds/greens. Pro acryl I adore the rich gold and will not be using any other bright yellow gold. Now weirdly I've had excellent luck with Army Painter theirs a couple browns, Grey's, a nice off-white with amazing coverage, the blues and metallics have always worked amazingly well for me and are regularly used, I like the finish and colour.

[@Bigtortuga1]

I've had fair enough luck with some colours too (the reds mainly lol). But a lot of other paints just separate for me and its really annoying and watery :(

[@dustiiyork3907]

Amazing video !! This video highlights clearly that paints and alot of brands have their own benefits and short comings. All these models look fantastic !

[@Ranger2KEOD]

I get it. This is a year old, but the new line of Army Painter does'nt suck quite as hard as it used to. Also, on a lark I bought some Apple Barrel matte black to just try it out... from now on, this is my go to basecoat. Properly thinned its AWESOME. I am so PISSED that i spent so much on "Good" paints all these years. Never be afraid to try something different now and then.

[@GeekandGlory]

Zumikito: "Army Painter is dog shit" Me: *who has an entire collection of Army Painter* 🥲 In AP's defense, I have discovered that it works a bit better with a dry pallet over a wet pallet. I'm starting to switch up my techniques to mix on the wet pallet but use small amounts on the dry pallet so I can get the fine detail without it running. Seems to go on more thick. Also having the mixing balls in the bottles helps out A TON!

[@Budobuyu]

This is a great video and every newbie painter really should take the time to watch it. Having recently tried Army Painter I can get results, but I didn't enjoy painting with them.

[@homeautomationlab1533]

Yeah same, I used their speed paint and loved it, bought regular paints and I couldn't get the results I wanted.

[@arcanewarsong]

Thanks for this video! I loved the side by side look. I always enjoy your videos, but super love this one!

[@joshuaginn792]

When you first open Army Painter, squeeze the excess medium out then shake. The excess is there to extend shelf life.

[@sidsicker7358]

Im a actually making the switch to army painter for most my paints, the dropper bottles are convenient and i feel like i get my moneys worth with them, i paint a lot so i end up blowing through citadel pots and the only thing i think ill use citadel for is their technical lines of paint.

[@sevencoloredmage8726]

Great video. Time just flies by, no fighting to stay awake or open up another tab.

[@bricesnow2695]

AK is great. Awesome for brush and airbrush. Great coverage and very vivid.

[@Cremefreeeesh]

AK 3rd Gen Acrylic 'Intense White' is the best white paint I've ever used

[@Smilomaniac]

I think more practical things like bottle storage is more of a concern for what people use. I have those polish HZ kits with a variety of options, so I just have a mix of brands. Over time I've actually grown accustomed to the Citadel pots. They're not good, but they're easier to get small amount of paints out of and dropper bottles aren't as good as people claim. If you have space for all kinds of bottles, the real answer is to just watch a bunch of creators and see which ones they swear to. It's fairly undeniable that Vincent has an amazing series discussing each color across brands and why he likes or dislikes each bottle. I've been happy with Citadel and avoided vallejo for 15 years because their paints used to have a horrible smell (enough for me to throw them out). Also the rumour that dropper bottles don't dry out, is false, they absolutely do. Anyway, bottom line is that different paints from different brands are great. Despite the hate on Army Painter, their matte black is nice. So is 'black templar' contrast and I imagine even more so with 'black legion' contrast. Vallejo has amazing options for skin tones that I enjoy. So, if you're not hung up on brands and can store whatever, buy a mix. Just don't mix the mediums with other brands.

[@chocolatefigure01]

Vallejo is better than citadel by a long shot brother.

[@Smilomaniac]

@@chocolatefigure01 Even the video concludes that this isn't true. There is no "by a long shot", that's hyperbolic nonsense. I've got a couple of their whites and yellows which aren't very good, almost as bad as Citadel's 'ceramite white'.

[@chocolatefigure01]

@@Smilomaniac vallejo game color is the old citadel range, best color selection there is, in my opinion ofc, vallejo model color yellows range are just game color tones with white, and i agree with you that its better to simply mix model color with a pinch of white instead. In sum, they all are the same shit but vallejo is cheaper and the bottle better.

[@DingoPaints]

Great video. Excellent for anyone new. I think its easier to learn if you commit to only 1 or 2 brands.

[@lt.branwulfram4794]

I use Citadel mostly because its much more accessible to me and I don't want to waste too much time faff around on the web trying to find cheaper brands. Living in the UK, the price tag isn't as bad as other places who have to get the stuff imported.

[@TheGoldenDragon_]

I've been wanting to try AK Interactive ever since you recommended AK's white in your ranking vid. It must be great bc it's always sold out. Great vid btw.

[@schmendrake]

Been a Vallejo guy since I got started. Its never let me down.

[@lordkoth6735]

The uniform Grey on army painter works great for me all my rest are shite

[@liamodonoghue2508]

Good clip. I am an intermediate painter and will now by buying velajo instead of citadel. Cheers

[@randomcompdude]

I bought the big army painter kit, I enjoy it cause it gives me a ton of colors, I've noticed some are better than others but they look goo with enough time.

[@timmehtimotei9499]

Thanks for clarifying the army painter paints, I felt some were “glassy” or as you said “buttery”. There was a zombicide army painter set and it was pretty much unusable. I stick with Citadel, no issues with them at all.

[@imagecollections6665]

I'd love to see some converted squig hoppers with grots on. Great experiment...as a newbie I have about 100+ citadel paints.

[@dimitristripakis7364]

Comparing with the time it takes to paint the minis, I can not see how cost can be an issue. I got a starter pack of Army Painter last year (about 10 bottlets) and so far only the black and the metal are almost depleted (after about 80 miniatures). I will now buy a black, metal, gold and a priming spray and be done for another year. That's about $50 per year, no big deal. How many bottles do you guys buy per year, roughly ?

[@RuffStuff420]

Vallejo and Kimera are my favorites, though I do have some GW and scale color as well and they work fine. I also got the Golden SoFlats and damn, those are so good.

[@jevanoff83]

For a long time GW and Vallejo was both made in the same factory, Army Painter was probably made in the same factory also, not sure if it's the same now. Hell as a 13 or 14 year old that started painting in 1997, I started out using Folk Art paints cause of the price compared to GW, Reaper or Vallejo. Using Folk Art paints made me a better painter and achieved some great looking paint jobs using them also. I mainly use Reaper paints now with a few from GW *mainly their metallics* and a few AP

[@mikefisher8563]

I would like to see the ap fanatic in this line up ..

[@32Loveless50]

well i usually use Army painter over GW paints (Citadel). they are good and i have the small pots GW paints come in, where the paints in the small bottles you can easy shake and drip paints into a pallet. Citadel paints main problem is that they are prone to dry out easy both in the pots and when painting, and ofc they are really pricy.

[@j1g2w3]

Kimera is actually not that expensive when you compare it by ml, because they come in really big bottles compared to every other brand. I tried some AK paints recently and I love them too!

[@AceTaxiaGaming]

Who the hell can even buy them?? They are sold out of their core set for ages now

[@markkuhn1297]

For someone like me just getting started in painting miniatures, your content is superb. However, before I can paint anything, the model must be assembled and glued together. I'm building a Tau Fire Warrior right now. But gluing the arms onto the torso while they are holding a rifle is quite a daunting task. One shoulder just will not line up to the torso, making the figure look like he has a painful shoulder separation. The armor piece will hide most of this, but is there a better way?? Any tips or advice would be greatly appreciated.

[@Zumikito]

I usually dry fit everything beforhand, do it should fit just fine. Try zo wiggle it a bit to find the right angle

[@jammywesty91]

This shouldn't be the case. Each left arm should match its corresponding right arm. Have you made sure you've removed the correct pair of arms from the sprue?

[@markkuhn1297]

@@jammywesty91 Yes, I made sure of that. Problem is, if the right arm is not glued on at the right angle, then the left arm must be brought down to meet it so the hand can grip the underside of the rifle. And that's what causes the gap at the shoulder. Like I mentioned, the armor piece on the left arm should cover this up. First model. To be expected. I guess it's just trial and error, really.

[@JanBaucke]

I just miss Reaper Paints here. They aren't miracle paints but I think this US brand deserve more attention here in Europe.

[@weaponizedwinnebago]

I like VGC because they have colormatch for the old GW paints that I grew up with. Some are bad, some are good, but all have that pop that old eavy metal style paintjobs used to have. I also like the new citadel base colours, I think you honestly could skip all the other colours in that range. I would like to check out coat d’arms though. I have some GW paints from the 90s still going but, they do seem to have pretty awful medium in them. Nice review anyways!

[@adamkrajco1920]

With paints it's not about the result the different brands change the enjoyability of the process and other differences are often very subjective

[@Ws_minion]

I've got quite a few different brands on my rack as I tend to buy my paints based on painting tutorials as I'm still fleshing out my collection so brand has been kind of irrelevant for me. I definitely agree that the citadel stuff is over priced but that being said the ability to go and actually try out the paints in the store has been really nice because I can work out what I like and don't like without having to waste money finding out myself

[@ScytheNoire]

I think what's most impressive is that you got these results with some paints that are not the easiest to work with. Like the Least - Citadel and Army Painter really stood out as not being as appealing as the others. Scale 75 is not appealing much to me either. Kimera looks like it was an artistic style done, as it's not smooth blending. Pro Acryl looks good, matte finish. AK and Vallejo may be the best two looking, in my opinion. I think I like the Vallejo one the best, but that could be because it's the best sculpt with the most unique Squig and has that nice pop of yellow. I'd be happy with Pro Acryl, AK, or Vallejo paints, all seem to go on very nice.

[@G-WhizsWorkshop]

I have a ton of vallejo paints and they are awesome!!!!

[@Bubonikz]

It's always a pleasure to watch your video, you're very funny, but still, remains very serious with your subject. Love you guy. No Homo.

[@philparis796]

Ive been a diehard Citadel user mostly out of ignorance for year, but then i tried Coat D'Arms Lupin Grey (for drybrushing on black and navy blue) and Vallejo model colour black for basecoats. Your video has helped open my eyes a little, i feel a little dumb for paying so much for citadel when Vallejo was one of the better brands i tried. Thanks for the video! Also, aside from Gloomspite Gitz, what else do you enjoy painting :)?

[@knightsljx]

the best paint is the one you can get easily, cheaply, and works well for you. I use Vallejo mostly for hand painting, Tamiya Enamels and a mix of Japanese/China lacquers for airbrushing. Pro Acryl basically doesn't exist where I'm at and AK isn't as widely distributed as Vallejo. There's no point gushing over Bold Titanium White if the only way you can get one is ship it in for $10 a pot

[@theblankettruth]

I’m moving from modern ships to 40k miniatures. Is Tamyia paint something I can use?

[@DismemberTheAlamo]

The problem with Vallejo and AK (At least recently) is that it has become very hard to get a hold of here in the states. My shop and others locally have had issues finding a source (although i think i found a solution) The reason I reccomend Citadel to most people is because you can walk into any store that sells mini's and you are almost guaranteed to find the rack. And I think thats where Army Painter is trying to get also, but at a budget level.

[@sweatilaa5325]

I'm lucky that my store here in Sweden got a fully stocked "corner of paints", sort of, and they have big sections for Army Painter, Vallejo Game and Model, AK Interactive, and then Citadel. It's kinda funny that Citadel got the smallest space of them all. Near by the corner they got a bunch of other brands as well. Even tiny stores got 2-3 brands to chose from here. Hope that the paint shortage sorts itself out soon over there! No one deserves having to work with Citadel paints!

[@jeremiahembs5343]

What is the best paint and why is it Coat D'Arms and Warcolours Classic 88'?

[@heathandkentyvapevarietysh1402]

Was it more that the scale 75 regular range is more ultra matte ....not so much chalky ? I primary use scale 75 and it matte, matte.

[@StorminWolf]

Sure you can use any paint and get similar or descent results. However consistency, pigments, saturation etc differ hugely so the process can be in some cases tedious and frustrating and in others much easier. I would therefore very much disagree with any statement saying it does not matter which brand you use. You should use the paint you're happy with to paint and that complements your process.

[@garayworkshop]

When it comes to one pigment paints, the best way to subdue a colour is using the complementary one in the color wheel, instead of black or white :)

[@RequiemWraith]

I've found the opposite to yourself with AK & Pro Acryl, I really don't get on with their paints. By contrast, my go to are S75 & GSW. I do quite like Citadel, but they don't supply in dropper bottles, so that's a deal breaker for me. I think this just demonstrates that the important thing with paint is finding a brand/range that works for you, rather than trying to buy 'the best'.

[@MacKayVer40k]

Audible chuckle at that comment saying Jon says to stipple them 😂😂

[@shawnross120]

I think this ends the debate on paint brands, the only thing I learned from this video is that saturation is the only real difference and finding a paint for your style is more important than the brand.

[@Zumikito]

Interesting, I would argue that finish might be just as important !

[@shawnross120]

@@Zumikito Wouldn't varnishing your models essentially get a uniform result? Sometimes varnish causes a chalky texture but Windsor and Newton matte varnish pretty much unifies all of my projects.

[@clanpsi]

Army Painter is really good if you get a vortex shaker.

[@korge1184]

Army Painter primer doesn't come off btw. Ebay model has a primer that wont come off? It's either dollar store primer or Army Painter.

[@Oreo_cakester]

What a nice beard, papa Zumikito

[@egnaroelprup]

I find that with the more medium heavy paints (army painter, vallejo model air etc) they perform much better from a traditional palette (shoutout to cheap supermarket dinner plates) the constant presence of water from a wet palette rather than just adding it by brush makes them behave much worse, and as I like to use such a palette more, they work for what I want them to acheive For me I buy paints more on the specific tone they achieve, rather than the consistency of the paint itself so I have a smattering of brands all over the place

[@MrSmashySmash]

The thing that really sucks is that there is almost no good variety for mini paints where I live. It's ONLY GW or sometimes Army Painter, with barely anything else. I'm not able to try many brands that I can look at in person that a lot of people recommend.

[@strejdaRadar]

Shit, I just bought 3000CZK worth of Armypainter paints, as I’m just starting painting minis :D Should’ve watched your video before!

[@gnetontheinternet2440]

Great video!! Do you notice a significant difference in the time to get coverage? How long did it take you to complete each mini?

[@Zumikito]

I know that scale75 and army painter took me significantly longer to layer up, AP like 2 as long as opposed to AK. The rest was very similar.

[@kingkongballs6407]

I really like the Kimera, and I'd put Pro Acryl and Vallejo 2nd and 3rd. Citadel in 4th and the rest....a big meh. Now thankfully I own a lot of Vallejo and a handful of Pro Acryl transparents....hm....might need to look into this Kimera. Thanks for comparing them, though a small suggestion, 3d print the exact same model and paint that, because the highlights and shadows are different on these models. Otherwise cool video

[@sherlock9397]

I’m new to painting I’m still having trouble thinning down my paints and getting the paint on smooth, got any advice or recommendations

[@Zumikito]

If you are painting warhammer models and have access to some spare bases, you can try thinning the paint and painting the bases. Usually it's not that the paint is too thick, rather, there is too much of it, so just add a drop of water, wick off the excess paint in the brush into a paper towel and paint 👌I also have a video on paint thinning, so that might help

[@AlexA-in1tv]

Hello, good video as usual. It makes me want to try out Ak paints. Would you recommend any set from their range that is a good starter ?

[@ΙωάννηςΜπουντούρης]

I really enjoy your videos. I love your instructional approach to painting minis. But don't get me wrong I truly cannot understand the hate for army painter. I0 store the paints upside down and personally believe is a good alternative to shaking. Anyway, I have used citadel, vallejo and AP and my painted minniatures are nice mixing every brand together or using only a particular paint brand. Ok maybe I am not even on par to KZbinrs experts painters but my opinion and message for new miniature painters is to practice with the colors that you have and make the best use of them without chasing a particular brand because the experts promote certain ideas. Finally, relax enjoy the process of painting and just play with painted miniatures that are always better to unpainted ones. Sorry, for the long rant... Keep up your excellent videos. Lots of respect to you.

[@Stixs279]

Hi videos are awesome mate and very entertaining!! Where is the best place to buy some cheaper paint racks from? Looking for more permanent ones don’t need to transport

[@LuckRoller]

Welp after having so much trouble with thinning army painter. I googled which was the better brand and came here. Guess my experience with army painter isn't so unique.

[@geographyinaction7814]

Opinions on Tamiya?

[@fenfire3824]

I wish i could agree. But a bad brand is not worth the money. And the answer why is: "Time"... if a color is simply better i won't need that much time to get the same result. For me time has the most value, because i work alot. I prefer to spend more money in good colors and are very happy, if i can get a good result as fast as possible.

[@andreikoenig5718]

Good video! What I do not understand is why is there such a focus on finish for gaming miniatures? Don't you varnish your models anyway? Considering a lot of people end up using something like Testors Dullcote, everything will be matte in the end anyway? Who cares what the finish of the paint is for a gaming piece if it is going to be varnished anyway? I only understand this for a display painting piece that will not be played with, so you can use paints to control what the final finish will look like. What am I missing?

[@BigVillyStyle]

You have ascended to the pantheon of the painting gods! Great stuff Z

[@jeffveytia4021]

Great video. Please try Reaper paints in another video.

[@MountainCat1986]

Why have you skipped P3 paints?

[@cronkitepercussion]

Fantastic video, thank you kindly for your excellent work. Why no P3 paint love?

[@Zumikito]

Unfortunately, they are not widely available in my country

[@diegotorresdasilva7480]

I would love to ad Ak Interactive paints to my collection any advise for the first buy? Any box that you can recommend ?

[@OhDearBabajan]

What do you think about reaper?

[@Zumikito]

Reaper is not easily available in the EU, so can't comment on it

[@VGModelling]

AK 3rd gen for their coverage and consistency and Scale75 Artist for the smoothness and blending properties for me ;) And yes-Scale75 doesn't cover well.

[@Turtle00001]

Great I just bought 2 boxes of army paint, then this video popped up lol.

[@rabbidjeremy9193]

No reaper paints?

[@CosmicDuskWolf]

With some colors like green, red and yellow, yes Army Painter sucks, their fantasy line for D&D however for other colors then red, green and yellows Army Painter isn't that bad. I like GW's technical paint and the paints for gems, but other then that I usually avoid GW because of the price for paint quality that's the same as Vallejo paints. I wanna try Chimera one day. I really love P3 paints, especially the Molten Bronze paint. On top of white you get a rose gold while using Molten Bronze, and on black paint it's a nice rich color. Satin or mat finish don't really matter in the long run if you use varnish and clear coats. Some varnishes are mat and some are satin and some are in between so you can adjust the finish that way. Honestly my favorite paint brands depend on the color or type of paint I am looking for. Green Stuff World's color shift paint's are a lot of fun as well.

[@Ankaireth]

The best paint brand, is that one you feel confortable

[@---gk9ve]

I am a vallejo-guy when it comes to painting

[@Uatemysoul]

Paints are like every tool in your box. Brand doesn't really matter, what matters is what it looks like on the model and if you can repeat it. I find familiarity to be far more important then Brand. While some brands are better at some jobs more so than others, If it's a color I've never used and don't know what it's gonna look like once it's dry then I don't like to use it on a model care about.

[@DaPreach90]

Paint brand doesn't matter. What's important is the pigment and the binder.

[@RobotJeeg]

I'm a little confused byt the "chaulky" thing. I'm too newbie to get exactly what chaulky means. What happens when a paint get chaulky exactly? It gets more white?

[@Zumikito]

Chalky, grainy, rough texture is what I mean

[@RobotJeeg]

@@Zumikito Thank you. English is not my language so I was confused.

[@sarawinpolitanont4365]

yeah, say that to my white scar.

[@square7131]

Has anyone tried Liqutex paints?

[@dadrand0m]

Scalecolor and Vallejo Model Color is the only way to fly for me. I've tried the others with the exception of AK. Citadel is overpriced. ProAcryl is ok. But the combo of Vallejo and Scalecolor is unbeatable.

[@MrDavs1985]

I find that AK struggles on a wet palette. It just goes everywhere

[@bluedotdinosaur]

Despite the popularity of wet palettes they're not the magic bullet many youtubers make them out to be. Some combinations of binders and pigments don't work with them - they keep absorbing moisture rather than just staying damp. There's a reason why many professional painters do not use a wet palette and stick with using a gloss-coated ceramic tile.

[@nameisbad]

Sorry for long rant lol On the subject of army painter paints, thank you, I've been trying to convince people they are dog shit for the longest time but they have an army of people who honestly know very little vouching for them for their price, but the price difference between them and something better is no that much at all. Fans are arguing the price to save money yet are also the one's who buy the full collection, not something someone who needs to pinch pennies would ever be able to do, and honestly is vallejo that much more expensive than AP? Is AK interactive really that unachievable if you can buy AP you might as well buy vallejo instead and if you can buy vallejo instead might as well buy AK instead haha. On the subject of kimera paints i'm surprised that you tried to desaturate it with black, that is a great way to darken a paint but to desaturate it it's better to use a paint that naturally does so, in this case: Green. Darker/brighter isn't the same as saturated/desatured. Think of it this way, desaturation is the process of going towards grey. On the subject of scale 75: I may get shit about saying this but this is the only way we painters keep learning and improving: The issue with those paint's is 100% a you issue (or your preference of course), they aren't paints you can just bend to your will, you have to bend to it's will. You've learnt how to use paints via small bodied paints designed to be easy as can be and it comes with certain sacrifices, scale 75 scalecolour range is a bitch to use but is by far the most matte paint, the finest pigmentation you'll find, suspended in a really high quality gel medium and once it's potential is unlocked and you learn to use them right rather than wing it like we do with most other paint ranges, You'll end up getting an amazing appreciation of the paint. Scalecolour isn't really for the realm of wargaming either honestly, it's the realm of painting busts. Their fantasy line is their attempt to make paints that are not as good but made for wargaming, their quality is closer to vallejo than SC75's scalecolour which is a premium product that is synonymous with quality. The results you can achieve with the paints are incredible tho, truly the hardest paints on the market yet worth their cost, you really have to enjoy the process tho. Same goes with kimera paints, it is unfortunately a you issue not the paints, trying to desaturate with black is obviously going to make you think poorly of the paints because of what I explained above. Scale 75 artist paints are heavy bodied acrylics not small bodied like you are used to and should have that taken into account, I for example use them for base coating believe it or not, but I don't do it over an incredibly bright zenithal but rather a darker grey one then I layer up, I also try to use less of them but mix them together, as well as having a mother color. It is also the only paint I know of to rival oils for wet blending as you noticed before. But I don't really use them the same way I use small bodied acrylics, I feel that would be a disservice to them. Greatest thing about painting is how we all learn things from each other, I think that's why there are so many wonderful painters out there, we are always elevating each other to do better, I know I've learnt some stuff from your videos and I've learnt a ton of other CC's like vince's hobby cheating, I really hope that the desaturating tip helps!

[@NumberOneGeek]

Thing that annoys me about army painter is their habit of messing up and then charging you again for the set that fixesvthe mistake.

[@aaabbb-zc7sx]

paint brand doesn't matter (as long as you're using the most expensive brands)

[@ironheadedDoF]

Actually, the premise of "you are prolly a beginner painter" does not apply to me. I have too many paint ranges. I want to know what I can throw out! Thanks, Zumi!

[@ballzcombatzilla5337]

What paint would u say is best for a person who’s just started and on a budget

[@PyromancerRift]

The worst feeling is to try to base coat with a shitty paint. You canot get an opaque coverage and you lose so much time.

[@schwegburt3002]

To me the take away is price and workability differentiate more than results. Army Painter can be a pain to use and Citadel's overpriced. Which makes them the ones to steer away from. All the paints can look right if you understand their properties (or aren't at a level where it matters.

[@gaolbreak1090]

Army Painter really seems to be a hit or miss. I got the 60 colours set for Christmas and almost all paints work just fine. I have to barely shake them to get them mixed, too. But then there's the two dark purples (Orc Blood and Alien Purple, I think) which just. Suck. Ass. You can shake off your damn arm and they just won't mix. The Dark Oak also is hard to mix, as well as one red tone I forgot the name of (it's really dark). But that's four paints out of 60. I can live with that.

[@ItsmeTyr]

@@gaolbreak1090 I got a big set as a present to and while i 100% agree. The light green just makes me cry but most of the colours are fine. Getting a pack of mixing balls helped a lot, but some paints are just horrible. I still greatly enjoy painting and as for a complete beginner its a fine set.

[@thezeevy]

Army painter's main issue for me has always been consistency. Sometimes I get a bottle and its fine. Sometimes I get one and its shit. Sometimes two bottles of the supposedly same color are clearly different shades or have different levels of saturation. Their quality control is just shit. Compared to vallejo, AK, or Pro Acryl where ive never had an issue

[@NatesMiniatures]

Great video mate, and I think this is actually really important one for those coming into the hobby. Once you figure out how a paint works you can make it work for you. Oh! and look ma! I am on a Zumikito video @11:37

[@JoeFlamenco]

I am definitely in the minority but I enjoy using Army Painter. I 3D print most of what I paint and use an airbrush to prime with. I have had problems with paints not covering well and so I had to adjust my priming colors to compensate. Also, I typically use one of their speed paints as a sort of “color adjustment filter” to tone my shadows. If that makes sense? I don’t know. Their stuff is cheap and works for me in the method that I like to work, which I suppose is less opacity, more blending and painted shadows and highlights.

[@Tipsythomas]

I find dripping out excess medium more than army painter recommends then using a vortex mixer sorts them right out. It's a faf that you need to do that at all but for better prices I can live with it.

[@qwertyrobbo101]

I like using them because they're easy for me to get at a reasonable price/ I don't really have any hobby stores near me and I've struggled ordering some of these brands online in the past, but Army painter sell on Amazon, so I can get a decent range of colours

[@stefan020290]

@@Tipsythomas it is weird that you mention their price. In Germany, Vallejo and AK are either the same price or sometimes cheaper (depending on the web shop). So except for certain colours, there is zero reason to buy any of their colours. And with Vallejos game colour refresh (which from what I have used are actually really great now) you won't have any problem to find the more vibrant fantasy colours.

[@nobbynobbs8182]

For acrylics, I prefer Vallejo over Army Painter by far. AK Interactive might we worth a try too. I've only tried their plain white paint, but that one was the best white I ever tried. However, I do love Army Painter speedpaints. These days I rarely paint with normal acryllic paints anymore

[@McWerp]

What I've found is that certain paint brands make me want to never paint. Other paint brands make me enjoy painting. So for me, paint brand definitely matters. A combination of Pro Acryl, War Colors, various artist inks, some oil paint, and a touch of contrast here and there has been the perfect combo for me.