What is the BEST tooling leather?

[@JoFrostleatherwork]

Thanks for this info! Nice to see the side by side comparisons!

[@dadhands]

Thank you so much Jo! I appreciate your feedback ☺️

[@BorealLeatherworks]

Great job Melissa. 👏

[@dadhands]

Thank you so much my friend ❤️

[@RALLYPOINT4402]

Thank you for the great video comparison! Cheers, Jack/Salty Badger Leatherworks

[@dadhands]

Thank you so much Jack! I appreciate you checking out the video, and they kind words 😊

[@ianthomas3653]

Great video. Just curious if you were pushing the blade as opposed to pulling so that we could see it or if thats how you do it? I have been tooling for a few years just for fun and haven't yet tried doing it on quality leather. I always end up picking up the cheapest, clean looking side at my local Tandy (to save on shipping) and I'm getting to the point i want to try something better. Timing of this video was perfect. Im going to have to grab some Herman oak soon. I like the darker impressions.

[@dadhands]

Thank you for your comment and checking out the video Ian ☺️ honestly I push or pull the blade depending on whatever feels comfortable for the project. I find sometimes there’s a lot of “it HAS to be done one way and not the other” info out there, and I’m just going to come out and say it, it’s not always true. The key to producing your best work is always comfort. Back when I was still doing fine detail welding, I’d always do a dry run pass just to make sure I had the movement down before I commit. I do much of the same with leatherwork too. If I have a complicated line or to cut, I make sure I can make it before I commit the cut. Haha sorry for the long winded response, I hope it was somewhat helpful. I hope you enjoy the Herman Oak when you get your hands on some, it’s quite honestly my most consistent favourite to use. The place I shop for it, Buckskin Leather in Nanaimo, often has really great bellies available too. Some of it isn’t the most usable for tooling, but makes for good small projects like key fobs. It’s a good budget alternative to buying a whole side.

[@kurtwalters7512]

Did you ever try tandy leather

[@dadhands]

I have, yes, when I was first starting out. It was an affordable way to practice, but I later found I prefer quality over quantity when it comes to tooling specific leather.

[@kboleather]

When I first started the craft I was everything Tandy. I finally garnered up the gumption to try carving. I studied all the carving videos on YT. With an ounce worth of confidence I got going. Cased the tandy leather & sharpened my tandy swivel. Disastrous results. I almost set fire to the leather & swivel knife. I bought some veg from Ian over at OA Leather & I had the same results. There was such drag and it isn't normal to use brute force to carve leather with a swivel knife. Then I managed to afford some Herman Oak. What a difference! My swivel cut through the HO like a hot knife through butta. It was clear why all the leatherhead carvers use nothing but Herman Oak. However HO is expensive, too expensive to learn & practice carving on. It isn't so much the quality of leather but rather how applicable the leather is to a certain project. Kinda like a car. Some are great for city drivin and not so good for a long road trip. I think what could be frustrating to new crafters is many retail outlets don't have much experienced staff when comes to providing sound advice on what the appropriate leather (and tools) for projects. So newbies go on the KZbin holy grail quest for advice. Your vid will be a great resource for many entering the craft or struggling with carving. As a fellow Canuck I sure as heck wish W&C were still in Toronto! LOL.

[@dadhands]

That really means a lot! Thank you so much! I appreciate you kind thoughtful words, and your sharing 😊 I am very lucky that I live a bit over an hour (and a small ferry lol) from Buckskin Leather in Nanaimo. They have locations in Calgary and Edmonton too. They’re phenomenal to talk to about leather, especially Herman Oak. The owner, Michael has a long history with Herman Oak, and has educated his family and staff on their tanning processes. I had the pleasure of meeting him last time I was in there, and he told me they’re the first and only suppliers to be official Canadian HO reps. PThey’re very worthy of a phone call, and they offer shipping. They sell bellies at a fraction of the cost of sides, they run at $9.99’square foot. Some of them have a great yield, and I really like them for smaller projects, like card slips, key fobs, or as interior pockets or liners. A couple summers ago they had also gotten in a haul of Wickett & Craig double shoulders that went for $11.99/sq foot. hahahaah sorry for the ramble, I’ve spent loads of hours sourcing and finding suppliers that are trustworthy and knowledgeable. I rely heavily on having stuff shipped to me where I live. Longview Leather in Alberta is also really wonderful, they carry a line of tooling stamps by a Canadian maker named Richard Brooks. They cost a lot less than Barry King stamps, and are also stainless steel, and in my experience, WAY nicer. If you ever wanna have a chat, hit me up on instagram, I’m always so happy to share 😊

[@kboleather]

@@dadhands You're not rambling! LOL. HO is arguably the best veg tan leather out there. I can't say enough good things about it. I sure wish Buckskin has a in-this-century-webpage. It is unfortunate the Nanaimo store isn't carrying Weaver product (it wasn't selling) so you have to order from Alberta, but Weaver's pricing has shot thru the roof lately so I guess it ain't a bad thing. 😅. I always make a point of stopping in at Buckskin when I'm heading up Island. I have heard good things about Brooks tools. Even Bruce Johnson has a few of them for sale onbis website. Barry King tools are good but I would much prefer to support local talent. I must say the Barry King snap setter is the cat's arse tho. There was a time he couldn't keep the #20 or #24 setter in stock. Thank you for your reply and please keep up with your helpful vids when you have the time. I think you filmed this one at Corter's HQ? I love Eric's content. He is so authentic and offers up confidence and helpful advice. The two of you make for a great collaboration.

[@dadhands]

@@kboleather ahhhh thank you so much! You are correct, this one was shot at Eric’s house when I was visiting him on the east coast. i will head back as soon as I get cleared to travel again by my dr. Having this video posted recently has gotten me excited about filming for this channel again, so I will certainly be posting a lot more often. I appreciate your kind words and encouragement! It really goes a long way. The Buckskin webpage is for sure a little bit of an oldie hahaha I ember the first time I found it I was like…..ummmmmm, luckily the store is close enough to go to? When you say heading up island, are you on the west coast too?? Are we neighbours(ish?!)

[@kboleather]

@@dadhands I live in Vanshitty. 🤣

[@dadhands]

@@kboleather ahhhhhh yes haha my old hometown, until I got priced out of the city and said “smell ya later.” If you ever find yourself out this way, or on the big island, lemmie know, I’m always very stoked on maker’s meet ups ☺️

[@sloth_e]

What is the difference between veg tan leather and what you guys are calling tooling leather?

[@dadhands]

That’s great question! Tooling leather is just unglazed, natural veg tan ☺️

[@sloth_e]

@dadhands I only ask as I'm in Australia and while we can get herman oak here, it's over 3x the price of local a grade veg tan. From what I gather, herman oak has something added so a good strike on your tool brings up a brown burnished mark. Where other ven tanages don't have that additive. Im no expert lol. Just something I'd read somewhere. Maybe on the herman oak website?

[@dadhands]

@@sloth_e so from what my friend that works at the store I buy the Herman Oak from told me, Herman Oak is tanned in big vats. The leather is hung, and the tanning solution gently works it’s way around, versus most other veg tans that are barrel tanned, and chucked around a bunch. I’m in Canada, and it’s not definitely not the most affordable option, but it’s been my favourite to work with so far. They also sell bellies that are a nice economical options. The yield is a bit lower, and I often use a fair bit for smaller projects like key fobs and what not.

[@sloth_e]

@@dadhands this tanning business interesting stuff. I think I go down that rabbit hole with google today 🤣

[@dadhands]

@@sloth_e haha yesssss! It really is! Let me know if you find anything super interesting ☺️ I always love learning more and more about this stuff!

[@avaearles5609]

I have never subscribed to something so quickly. All I need to know. Was that your account name was dad hand Apparently that was all the Credentials that I needed

[@bronwynschuster]

Me watching the whole thing like I'm actually going to start tooling and leatherwork 👁👄👁

[@dadhands]

If you ever want to, you know where to find me boo ❤️🤗❤️ Thank you for checking out my videossss

[@jamesw.3491]

Couple of points here. 1 - You always pull your swivel knife. It's not about that's just how everyone does it, it's because you get the most control of the knife and you can see your line pulling, not pushing. That is unless you have eyes in front of your knife. You don't because your head is behind the knife. I can see you twisting your arm, and not rolling your fingers when you pushed the knife. No control. Also your finger position is off on the cradle. First knuckle, not second knuckle. 2 Everyone wants to tool what is easiest. You think FO Baird or Al Stohlman were carving Herman Oak in the beginning of their careers? Nope. If all you ever do is easy work, you will never be a master at it. Not only that, you have to think of price points for your products. Not everyone, and certainly not enough people, are willing to pay top money for an artesian product. I have no problem tooling a cheap hide. It allows me to sell more and profit more. Lots more to say on the boutique type hides, but most people think they have it all figure out (and are broke). 3 Most people would bevel the line with a regular beveler FIRST then come back with a lifter. Lifters are not designed to bevel the line from the start. The foot is too large to cut in, that's why you are smashing down the line tool width by tool width and not walking it across the line.

[@dadhands]

Hey James, Thank you for taking the time to tell me what I was doing wrong. Love it. First off, I don't personally use a traditional swivel knife for the most part. I have explained in other videos that I have damaged hands from years of metal fabrication. I had also made this video when I was very far from home and my own tools, so I was just working with what I had available, and in a way that was comfortable for the demo. Second off, and this is just coming from a fellow maker/crafter, it's not a great look to criticize any one's methods, the way they hold their tools, etc. if you don't know them personally, and especially not so publicly. You never know what someone else has tried, gone through, or injuries they may have that keep them from doing things "the proper" way. Art, crafts, fabrication, etc, its all subjective, there is never one straight line or clear path. Don't be the reason someone loses confidence in the ways they've found to do things. Maybe start up an email chain, ask if they would like some advice from a seasoned pro...my answer would have been a very polite "no thank you." Third off, I never said anyone HAD to tool boutique hides, just sharing an opinion and testing out some different options I was gifted to do so on. This also wasn't my first video reviewing a potential tooling leather that I had been given the opportunity to try out. I started out on cheap hides too, and always encourage folks to try out a plethora of different types, price points and what have you. Just a little bonus...incase you haven't seen the video I did with some fellow leather crafters citing that unsolicited crafting advice is the new unsolicited d*ck pic, thank you for providing an example for me to share in future conversations.