What Leo Fender Got Wrong? Or... How To Install Threaded Inserts.

[@SuperBossman9]

Another way you can tap the holes is put the tap in a tap wrench and use a center punch in the drill press, the punch will fit into the chamfer on the back of the tap wrench centering it.

[@JonDeth]

Exactly how I thought it should have been done literally 30 years ago. A threaded insert screwed and glued for a machine screw with a course thread is a massive upgrade. The denser you can get the bond of the neck joint, the more it rejects vibration and in that, it keeps that energy in the string better. *In that function, it makes tremendous increases in response, the solidity of note decay and the duration of decay.*

[@kevinmackfurniture]

As a furniture maker, I've done my fair share of wood inserts in hard, curly maple.... Tapping the hole is something I Never thought of. It's brilliant. Curly hardwoods are notoriously brittle and easy to split. Even when you've used the correct sized drill bits.

[@74dartman13]

Seems like I remember seeing a video recently, where someone had a little difficulty with those inserts.😂👍😎🎸🎶

[@TexasToastGuitars]

You may have

[@kirkscobey3031]

Haha thx Brad for the entertaining how to video!

[@xklopan]

I also see you used a Brad point bit lol

[@74dartman13]

@@xklopan 😂

[@paulhuppenthal8121]

But he had nice hair

[@joehammer3462]

Great technique utilizing both the jorgensen clamp and drill press. I particularly like the drill press technique to start the tap into the neck to keep it centered!

[@TexasToastGuitars]

An old school machinists technique... I know because I learned it from an old school machinist HAHAHA

[@KE8UYV]

GREAT tips here! Good call on the clamp, as well as the ez locks... The tread is much better suited for maple than the brass ones at the store that have a flat thread on them. Hands down best video on neck inserts! My good Sir... You've gained another subscriber!

[@DaveWestGuitar]

Stainless steel EZ-Lok razor outer thread type work well; at least they did for me. The stainless is really resistant to cross threading or stripping for the inner 8-32 threads on stainless machine screws.Many ways. Geometry matters, use a jig , drill guide (Gator), or drill press. I agree that brass is a really bad choice, but Fender uses brass on the YJM.

[@TexasToastGuitars]

You know it brother... Do it right the first time

[@Grudgemeyer]

A good idea for heel adjust truss rod necks.

[@TexasToastGuitars]

Yes, you got that right

[@markprice1308]

I have 3 1960 fender jazz bases and if i have to make a neck adjustment i have to take the neck off and this was for me the perfect solution because it seems like at least onece a year ill have to make a small ajustment to my necks its wood it moves ,each time those wood screws are loosened and tighten its going to degrade the screw hole now im more confident when i take it off and put it back on its a tight joint and my neck angle is correct and my action is exactly the way i like it , I recomend having this done to any bass with the truss rod adjustment on the heel of the neck .

[@hydroman99]

I can't help thinkin that this was directed towards Brad Angove. I still love Brad's guitar work.

[@TexasToastGuitars]

We love Brad

[@biffwellington5047]

I came upon this years ago when I bought a graphite neck. You have to use inserts and bolts to attach those type necks. So, I thought, I wonder if using these in a wood neck would make a difference. I found, in my opinion, it did. Better sustain and tone. It only makes sense. The tighter you can attach the neck and body, the better the vibration transfer. I've been using inserts ever since. Thanks for the video, rock on Texas toast!!!!

[@TexasToastGuitars]

Thanks brotherman, we like the inserts and are happy to use them if people want. Having said that, we actually don't do it very often

[@aurejones9546]

Great video. I'm looking into this because I am having to travel a lot and have found it very convenient to remove the neck from my strat and put it in a suitcase. I figure I'm only gonna get away with that so many times with the stock wood screws. Thanks.

[@TexasToastGuitars]

The treaded inserts are super cool, give them a try

[@MrJohnnyDistortion]

Why not just get a damned flight case and do away with the hassle of dissasembly & reassembly?

[@bramabull111]

Wow, I'm surprised how many people in the comments dont see the point in this. I think a mod like this should come on all expensive bolt on guitars. Great idea guys

[@TexasToastGuitars]

It is pretty neat

[@ramencurry6672]

This mod probably adds slightly better stability to the structure. I would consider it

[@noseyparker6622]

That is a beautifully precise and easy way of doing it. I have a drill press ( or pillar drill ) as we say in the UK, and it’s a number 1 must have piece of kit to have in any workshop.

[@TexasToastGuitars]

I agree my friend

[@drzainnas]

Thank you Matt for sharing your valuable experiences and your awesome channel. Texas is so proud to have you. I certainly salute you and tip my hat for you sir. Best regards from England.

[@alanbabcock1438]

Thanks for all of the pointers. My grandson and I are in the process of building a modified Stratocaster, a first for both of us. Yesterday he was asking if I knew of a way to do away with the screws that held the neck we are using onto the body, now I do. McGuckins is not far and if they don't have it you probably don't need it anyway.

[@ritchtaylor3831]

I love those EZ's in super hard exotic woods (cumaru, Ipe) for when I'm making furniture. I use one drop of two-part epoxy on the threads though.

[@TexasToastGuitars]

That works too

[@scaira60]

Matt I have used threaded inserts for a lot of furniture I have built. 1st off You showed me these EZ lok inserts Awesome***** Now you taught me to tap the wood, I have never thought of that. So Thank you Matt You Rule******

[@TexasToastGuitars]

Glad I could help Scott

[@MrJohnnyDistortion]

Which gauge strings do you use on your furniture?😂😆🤣😁

[@BradAngove]

You guys use the press to start the tap it too hey? That’s a new one. Cool tip.

[@TexasToastGuitars]

I learned it from an old machinist

[@BradAngove]

It’s a good idea. I used to do some machinist work back in the day. We mostly did pieces that were too big for the drill press when it came to tapping stuff, but still a great idea.

[@hobo1958]

@@TexasToastGuitars Yeah the drill keeps the tap perpendicular to the neck for a straight thread. ...........free hand tapping is shady. I'm a retired Machinst myself.

[@evankolpack]

I'm doing this on my tele and strat because if a neck that isn't tightened rock solid will experience small fluctuations in tuning.....and of course, torquing wood screws super hard is always risky, even in rock maple. I don't want to have to worry about it. This way I can torque the hell out of the screws, likely get better neck pocket contact (maybe a little more sustain?) and not experience any micro fluctuations in tuning while rocking out. Thanks for the video!

[@EddieG1888]

I've got these in the necks of both of my main basses, and swear by them. The necks feel absolutely solid with neck inserts.

[@TexasToastGuitars]

They won't let you down, right Eddie

[@EddieG1888]

@@TexasToastGuitars Indeed, and my basses also have bucketloads of sustain using neck inserts. They just pull the neck in so much tighter to the body.

[@michaelmattson3515]

I have seen top mounted thread inserts. They are installed before the fretboard is attached.

[@TexasToastGuitars]

That is a great way to go

[@dalgguitars]

"Sometimes things are cool because they're cool." You have that right Brotherman!

[@TexasToastGuitars]

I love that line

[@MotownGuitarJoe]

LOVE the clamp lying on its side. Much easier than making a jig to match the fretboard radius.

[@clarkbabin9799]

You came up on my point before I got to it but. Had a problem with a screw that kept backing itself out on an older Harley. Couldn't find my locks tite so I coated the screw with a light amount of wood glue and it did not back out again until I had to pull the seat off.

[@TexasToastGuitars]

Wood glue really sticks to metal quite well

[@Cablexman2k]

Thanks Matt. I appreciate the shared expertise. "I'm not saying this is the only way... but it's the only right way!"

[@TexasToastGuitars]

And not too slow right? Might as well do it right

[@parachuteman4]

Nice work. I can definitely see the advantage of the drill press and tap. Although I was a bit concerned until you glued them in. I have used those before (but not the steel ones). They often tended to pull out or unthread themselves after repeated removal of the neck.

[@TexasToastGuitars]

Glue is the hot set up

[@hwdwins63]

Hi Matt, Took your advice on the inserts from your older video. I followed you exactly. I have put them in several necks. Works like a charm every time. I'll never go back to screws. Great work and thanks again.

[@TexasToastGuitars]

Glad you had good luck with those inserts man, they won't let you down. Thanks for watching, again

[@BreauxBobby]

I have a 23 year old Warmoth neck. I've taken it on and off so many times that every time I put it back on now, I have to fill one or two of the holes with toothpicks shaved a little. The first strat was made in the 50's. Seems a little primitive to use woodscrews to hold a neck on by the wood of it. This is a much better solution.

[@Phreddyfoophred]

I guess if you don't have a drill press, you can use a drill guide to make sure the holes are perpendicular. I wonder if Ben at CG has fashioned wooden neck screws for ultimate tone?

[@TexasToastGuitars]

Ol' Ben is one smart guy

[@mrfrontranger7911]

Especially a cool old 1957 Craftsman drill press

[@TexasToastGuitars]

Lord knows I love it

[@gilwood7530]

This is PERFECT ! I just got 2 bodies and one neck ...still deciding what the other neck will be . I always thought there should be a better way

[@TexasToastGuitars]

Hope you like it Gil

[@scottmorris4914]

I like the idea of using the tap, never saw that done before. I did see one person use a counter sink bit and that way it was cleaner and easier to but the insert just below th surface.

[@TexasToastGuitars]

Give it a try Scott, you might really dig it

[@yohanonshine4664]

Omg your awesome, I saw and commented on that dude's video he insisted that the cracked neck was stronger cause he super glued it. I ended our conversation by wishing him good luck, I can't wait to see your build the neck came out sweet and the logo on it is real cool. You guys are the best cause you build like it is your own personal guitar. That dude maybe posting a fake build, maybe he could buy a professional neck from you lol

[@TexasToastGuitars]

I have seen several videos, posts and even big name guitar builders doing things that I wouldn't do. It doesn't make me right or them wrong. I like the steel inserts and will continue to use them.

[@yohanonshine4664]

@@TexasToastGuitars hey I'm subscribed to a builder named johnny B guitars there a cool bass guitar build there please check out his clip he uses some well thought ideas to improve sustain and grounding, although some of it maybe overkill it really performed In the demo.

[@72zSS]

You should also mention using a "Bottom Tap" and not a regular type tap... Just my 2 cents. Dig your Channel by the way!

[@Bdegan68]

Agreed. Shallow holes with a threaded insert would benefit from a Bottom Tap

[@TexasToastGuitars]

That is a good tip

[@Vern859]

@@Bdegan68 im not familiar with a bottom tap? Can you exaggerate on what is a bottom tap? 👋

[@robdefrancesco8928]

@@Vern859 Bottom taps are flat on the end unlike a regular tap which has a point, or tapered end.

[@Vern859]

@@robdefrancesco8928 so what is the advantages in using that kind of tap?

[@scottmartinezguitarandbass]

So the EZ Locks are 5/16"? What is the size of the bolt you're using? I get that the tap is 3/8"-16. Thanks!

[@LenLynch]

He said 10-24 at the begining

[@rdaws73]

I can definitely see the advantage if you need to take the neck off for truss rod adjustments at the heel every now and then

[@LRHutch]

Great video man. Yup, you did it right. Using good materials and careful drilling makes the job great quality.

[@gtedeschi8850]

So this is what a serious guitar video looks like from Texas Toast.

[@TexasToastGuitars]

We have lots of videos

[@KaizenUSMC]

Great info. I've used the stainless version in the past. Bolt/jam nut approach avoids f'n up a softer slot. Mechanical testing data on E-Z site provides enough info for confidence in holding capability.

[@TexasToastGuitars]

I'm convinced

[@mattaebi]

Funny, the 70's Gibson bolt on models that everyone criticized used bolts and not wood screws. They used T-nuts under the fretboard. Very solid.

[@TexasToastGuitars]

Or were they? I did not know that, very cool

[@timeWaster76]

It would be great to load the inserts from the fret board side before gluing it up. Leaving a shoulder for the insert to rest. It will greatly increase the body neck connection

[@jimhibert]

1:05 - most articulate commentary ever in a YT video. Perfectly makes the case.

[@TexasToastGuitars]

I have never been accused of being articulate before.

[@jimhibert]

Sorry - didn’t mean to offend....

[@berockization]

I thread then run thin CA into the cut threads and let it kick before the insert goes in.

[@TexasToastGuitars]

that is a good idea too

[@CKS64]

That my friend is a real bolt on neck. Well done.

[@ebandcamp]

I’m a machinist by trade (amongst welding and electrical ) I’ve used the drill press the way you do many times to tap holes .

[@TexasToastGuitars]

Old school, right

[@GreyMatterStew]

Seriously, Great job, Matt. I like how much attention you pay to the details.

[@TexasToastGuitars]

I appreciate that my friend

[@ronaldbharvey]

Except the little detail of the record button

[@TexasToastGuitars]

@@ronaldbharvey I need a camera person

[@lyndelguitars9478]

@@TexasToastGuitars And the detail of removing the red thread lock on the first hole. Haha. Just kidding. Love the channel!

[@Bob_at_OZDiggzguitars]

OOOOHH! Harsh Toke! I WONDER who you were referring to? Gunsmith's Metric Wrench, love it! In the UK it's called a "Spanner". This technique is impressive, even the second time around! I like this idea for screwing legs into my C-19 Lap Steel (I'd have to come up with a washer of proper size, of coarse) (Ttt...Ggg...Ggg...Bbb...Ooo 2020 RAWKS!)

[@scootertrasher1369]

My 1994 strat hasn't had Leo's screws come loose yet and my Vintage McDermett pool cue has a threaded pin that screws into maple, it's from the seventies, no problem with that joint.

[@TexasToastGuitars]

Cool dude

[@kevinmahaney3650]

Thank you for showing these guys to use the drill press. Gets it started nice and straight. You guys rock!

[@TexasToastGuitars]

Thanks man, they are easy if you do it with the right tools

[@donstewart368]

Its cool if you have a truss rod that adjusts in the heel and you have to take the neck off a lot.

[@TexasToastGuitars]

Totally

[@willscott5841]

I'm wanting to do this same concept with the pickup screws on my Gibson LP Jr. I found stainless threaded inserts and the matching screws I would like to use. Is the whole idea the same as what you did here? I'm going to use a 4-40 thread pattern also

[@cmesoar]

Not sure if anyone mentioned it yet, but this is a great way to permanently repair stripped neck "bolt" holes.

[@TexasToastGuitars]

Good point, it would work great for that

[@demokraatti]

4:27 The hole located in New Mexico seems to have creeped few miles to the north.

[@TexasToastGuitars]

I love New Mexico

[@mikkosutube]

using the tap to start the insert in the right direction is a great idea..thanks!.usually i just put the insert in mounted on a bolt that follows a predrilled guide hole..and with the insert upside down so that the groove that people think is for a screwdriver can cut the thread..much in the same way as a tap...if course it is a bit difficult to remove if you have to..but if you do it right then there should be no reason to remove the insert..and if you do it wrong..well, then the threads are probably twisted anyway and you will need to plug and redrill..

[@TexasToastGuitars]

Old school machinist trick

[@eternallearner8185]

I did exactly the same on a Squier Mascis Jazzmaster, I started the thread for a couple turns with a tap then drove the insert in slot side first to act as a tap but with zero slop in the neck, superb result. Will be doing same again to a MIJ Jazzmaster this week.

[@johnulrich5572]

Finally, somebody using inserts the right way. And using a drill press to tap the holes. Very cool. Hey, Matt, I couldn't find the precision metric gun smith wrench in the links below. I think you ought to send one of those to Brad...I don't think they have those in Canada.

[@TexasToastGuitars]

Correct me if I'm wrong but in Canada that would be called a gunsmith's SAE tool kit

[@ctrent9742]

Great lesson for all of us garage shop builders!

[@TexasToastGuitars]

Glad you liked it my friend

[@rchydrozz751]

Depending on the neck wood and the grain. Drilling the pilot holes and then screwing in the inserts. With the 2 pilot holes being inline. If not careful you could split the neck. Maybe not right away. But one day you'll cold notice a crack if not careful.

[@alwayslearning8365]

Thanks I will try this on build I am currently doing. 😀

[@TexasToastGuitars]

Hope you enjoy it! it's totally easy

[@DavidRavenMoon]

I use steel inserts from E-Z lock made for wood. They are pretty much the same as the metal ones.

[@kenlee5015]

They have a more aggressive thread, don't they? Do they require tapping?

[@DavidRavenMoon]

Ken Lee I don’t tap the wood. They cut a thread going in. I use a bolt with a stack of washers as the insertion tool. It’s easier on mahogany than maple, so I like the tapping idea.

[@Crooks103]

The content you are putting out is incredible. Got to be one of the most informative guitar builds.

[@TexasToastGuitars]

Thanks Crooks

[@jonahguitarguy]

I like the tap idea a lot. I use a cap head bolt threaded into the insert and drive them in with an Allen wrench. I don't like buggering up the insert with the screw driver. I also clamp the neck edges to keep any install force from the insert from cracking the neck. But I will tap the next one cause that was way cool. I also typically run them in dry and then wick CA into the joint. Works great and no fiddly glue mess while installing.

[@TexasToastGuitars]

Lots of good ways to do this job

[@MrJohnnyDistortion]

CA?

[@jonahguitarguy]

thin super glue@@MrJohnnyDistortion

[@MrJohnnyDistortion]

@@jonahguitarguy There's thin & fat super gloo?

[@jonahguitarguy]

@@MrJohnnyDistortion yep, out Stewart McDonald

[@shanedingz]

Yes. Thank you. I recently felt the pain of watching someone fumble around, trying to install inserts.

[@TexasToastGuitars]

You're welcome!

[@russellhughes2270]

Matt, if you remove the thread sealer won't it leak ?

[@gregsullivan1445]

Matt just wondering if you could follow this up with putting ferrule in the body to mate with the neck with the threaded inserts. Thanks

[@TexasToastGuitars]

Sure man, let me work on it

[@ParaBellum2024]

Excellent instructional video. Thanks for posting. I've fitted steel inserts to my telecasters, as I sometimes bend the necks and don't want them to come off (...again). In my opinion, inserts with machine screws definitely improve tone and feel. Much better than woodscrews.

[@TexasToastGuitars]

I like them too

[@MrSDFD18]

Do you get the same amount of friction (wood screw into wood) with the screw as you do with a bolt (metal bolt into metal receiver)?

[@Terry3Gs]

Great video & yes you dont want to miss drill something on a neck or else it might end up ruining the neck from usability. Cant repair a neck screw up as easy as a body screw up.

[@TexasToastGuitars]

You can do it man

[@MrJohnnyDistortion]

Aren't you concerned at all with the depth of the holes that you drilled? And, why not install smooth I.D. sleeves into the body?

[@evanpaulsmithfalconfogolin6147]

Is it possible to get suggested part numbers for the tools and inserts?

[@frankrizzo7781]

You should leave thread locker on it will keep the insert in the wood. If you need to remove the insert you warm it up with a hair dryer. The inserts are much nicer than wood screws.

[@donaldfisher8556]

Hey great video and I've installed nut inserts just the way you have just shown. A drill press is awesome for control. A lot of really good information. Thanks

[@TexasToastGuitars]

Thanks Donald

[@sheldonkepley4585]

Awezome video Mat! Perfect example of basic machining skills with great explanation, Chris evidently didn't put the tap handle back up! LOL

[@EdwardT9]

I like this method, even though I have no problem with the correct wood screws into the correct size hole. My explanation of all this...The ones intended for chip board assume the chipboard will compress a lot, so if you drill your pilot hole in maple and screw those in the maple won’t compress much and the neck can crack. The steel insert has smaller threads that will crush the maple and not crack the neck, and glueing them keeps them even more solid.

[@MrJohnnyDistortion]

Leo really didn't get it wrong. He just didnt take it to the next obvious level.😃

[@johnnyrandom100]

I think Kramer uses this approach to join the neck to the body.

[@TexasToastGuitars]

Oh cool

[@ravenslaves]

I just realized that I get the same Zen-like feeling watching these videos as I do watching Bob Ross videos. ...these are louder. ...but still.

[@johntailing5283]

ravenslaves Can’t wait to see a “Liquid HHHWhite” strat , with “Happy little accident “ pickups- It’d make my day 🎸 🎨

[@TexasToastGuitars]

HAHAHA nice, I like your style

[@magicdaveable]

Cool technique although my preference is a 22 fret neck. Just a little quirk of mine.

[@TexasToastGuitars]

We can build those too

[@6xcchamber971]

Do you counter sink the Ferules in to the back of the neck also? I think Ibanez does that and that will give more room without a neck plate. What do you think???? Bradley P

[@TexasToastGuitars]

Totally, that is the hot set-up

[@joelongstaff7601]

Brad great videos. Thanks. I don't know if in the past you've talked about using wood augers as opposed to drill bits but it might be informative to the folks who follow along with you. It will help some folks do better wood working.

[@briansimpson8116]

Brad?? His name his Matt. The guy who paints is Clint, or Curt, or Chad.

[@TexasToastGuitars]

Great idea, whoever Brad is

[@joelongstaff7601]

@@TexasToastGuitars Sorry Mat just started watching the videos. I'll pay closer attention from here on in.

[@MarioinRmd]

329 - 3iC is the EZ-Lock part number, for those that are interested.

[@TexasToastGuitars]

That is good to know

[@MarioinRmd]

@@TexasToastGuitars Correction: I've been looking at these, and 'ic' is the insert with thread lock on the inner threads as well. The correct part number is 329-3

[@gefenguitars]

Really helped me, can you also help with the matching screws?

[@GnLguy]

@Texas Toast Guitars Not doubting you but why do you think that the steel inserts are a better choice than brass? Brass is a softer material than steel so is the concern that the threads aren't as stable over time?

[@phereracer]

Thanks Matt, that is very kewl and you made it look easy...I'm gonna try it.

[@TexasToastGuitars]

It is easy

[@timbeaton5045]

Has to be said, that i tried this on a parts strat, using stainless steel bolts and inserts. Don't have a drill press, and did it by hand, and it worked like a charm. Just did it very carefully! And yes, i would definitely recommend steel inserts, although my neck is mahogany, so a little more forgiving than rock maple. I did this because as I was putting the guitar together I would be detaching and re-attaching the neck, more than once. And I have had a woodscrew in a neck strip the wood slightly, and causing it to be impossible to tighten. Belts and Braces, and all that!

[@timbeaton5045]

PS if you are watching in the UK, i bought my inserts from here... www.insertsdirect.com/acatalog/headed-stainless-woodfit-insert.html

[@TexasToastGuitars]

You can do it brotherman

[@DavidGonzalez-ts9xf]

The truck of using the Jorge’s on clamp is geneuos

[@ianmcgillivray4935]

Id like to know, why did you choose or prefer the metal threaded type of insert ofer the wood threaded type?

[@mikeivey8471]

"Hey Man , go ahead & hit that subscribe button!! All the cool kids are doing it!!" Love it !! Awesome video , Matt !! Gotta try that technique !!

[@TexasToastGuitars]

Right on Mike

[@danielpost9919]

Pretty cool trick Matt! Love the videos.....

[@TexasToastGuitars]

Glad you like them Daniel, thanks for watching

[@chuckyg4798]

Was wondering what type of machine screws you use. Being carbon steel, can I use stainless screws with no problem, or do they have to be zinc coated. just wondering what screws you recommend.

[@fredchatham6680]

One thing I'll do on every bolt neck guitar is slightly chamfer the thru body holes in the neck pocket and slightly chamfer the screw holes on the back of the neck. I've had a burr kick up on the neck screw holes and occasionally the thru body holes almost too tight for neck screws and a burr kicks up there too. If either or both occur the neck is not seating properly. It only takes a few seconds, doesn't take much to chamfer those holes. Use a drill press and set depth to avoid boo-boos.

[@TexasToastGuitars]

That is a good tip

[@MrJohnnyDistortion]

Another EXCELLENT post & point. Thanks

[@williamjones3616]

I cant ever recall seeing anyone using T nuts prior to the fret board being attached which in my opinion is a better option.

[@TexasToastGuitars]

I know a lot of people that do exactly that and happen to be one of them.

[@Scott__C]

This seems like it will make it a lot easier to take the neck off if you need to in the future. Don't know if other builders do this, but Hamer used to use inserts for direct mount pickups rather than just screwing into the wood. It's really nice if you're one of those rare guitar players that may change out pickups. ;)

[@TexasToastGuitars]

It is a pretty neat feature even if all it does is allow you to remove things easily

[@grg-mpgmusic7247]

Would not have a bolt on neck without inserts and bolts....Thank you for the lesson

[@TexasToastGuitars]

No problem 👍

[@stevenfolino405]

Great job Matt, very clean and precise installation. I did see a “recent” installment of another builder, not naming names, and was a bit surprised that Brad did NOT use a drill press. 😉

[@TexasToastGuitars]

There were a few people who have had some trouble with inserts lately. This method isn't a guarantee but we have had great success with it

[@markpell8979]

Besides being super cool and nerdy, this trick is also nice for folks who remove their necks more frequently than usual for pickup swaps, fret jobs etc. Keeps the neck screws (normally coase wood thread) from wearing out the hole, losing optimum bite and introducing play in the joint. Blah blah, yadda yadda. Now where did I leave my beer?

[@TexasToastGuitars]

Good points Mark, it is a nice way to go

[@mattliebenau9083]

Cool. I’ve never had much luck with the brass inserts with the exaggerated wood thread on the outside. I’m not sure there’s much of an advantage especially when the truss rod adjustment is at the headstock so the neck pretty much goes on and stays on but I also don’t argue about guitar voodoo with people either. 😄

[@TexasToastGuitars]

Oh man, there is so much disinformation out there.

[@MrJohnnyDistortion]

What does head stock truss adjustment have to do with increased neck pocket stability?

[@mattliebenau9083]

@@MrJohnnyDistortion I meant that I don’t see a huge advantage to machine screws if the neck is staying on the body. If it has a heel adjustment the neck would be removed when the rod needs to be adjusted which could be regularly and inserts and machine screws might make more sense.

[@rnemchev]

Can I use epoxy instead of wood glue?

[@StephenWhite55]

I’ve used this method for around 40 years, and my only critique is to suggest drilling each hole in two stages, paying attention to the exact depth of each stage. First, drill and tap the large-diameter hole Only to the minimum depth needed to allow the insert to go fully flush with the surface (it should ‘bottom out’ at that depth), when you finally install it. Next, measure the depth and diameter needed to create a concentric ‘well’ for the machine-screw to extend into, below the land for the insert. Only after these two stages are correct, it’s time to glue and install the insert. I always coat both the insert’s threads and the threads in the wood, since the act of screwing the insert in, tends to displace the liquid glue.

[@katwoodytham8314]

what kind of glue? Is super glue ok?

[@stevemccutcheon8803]

Great video! Very simple and effective.

[@TexasToastGuitars]

Thank you Steve

[@noelwinslow6899]

i know for a fact it makes a sonic difference and it changed the feel of the guitar, all for the good. It was amazing. Highly recommend.

[@TexasToastGuitars]

See... Noel gets it

[@noelwinslow6899]

@@TexasToastGuitars So glad I found your page. About 10 years ago a buddy and me spent way to much time playing guitar and hanging out in his machine shop, it was basically his man cave but a very well equipped and fun cave. He was a master machinist and a novice guitar player and I spent time teaching and jamming there and he progressed. Blah blah, anyway, we kicked around a lot of ideas and one was to do what your video explains. We used his deluxe strat for a test subject and the difference was mind blowing, everything got better. He used the type of inserts you recommend. How ever we lost touch and iv been wanting to do this ever since to my guitars. Thanks so much for the reply and the video, all the best.