Tailoring 101 with Victorian Waistcoats

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Historical tailoring can easily become overwhelming with the number of options there are for construction! So, I'm going to look at two of the antique waistcoats in my collection, both from around the turn of the century, to see two ways of managing this garment. The first is a summer waistcoat, so it has no internal layers and all quick machine stitching. The second is a formal style meant to be worn with a tail coat, so it has canvas on the interior and a lot more hand-stitching.
Fashion Plates:
www.metmuseum.org/art/librari...
Recommended Suppliers:
www.biasbespoke.com/
www.bblackandsons.com/
www.macculloch-wallis.co.uk/
burnleyandtrowbridge.com/
The canvas I used in this video: www.bblackandsons.com/product...
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Edited with DaVinci Resolve: www.blackmagicdesign.com/prod...
🎶Music via Epidemic Sound: www.epidemicsound.com
00:00 Introduction
01:46 Antiques
06:16 Supplies
15:32 Summer Construction
26:55 Evening Construction
41:22 Reveal

[@NicoleRudolph]

Thanks to Milanote for sponsoring this video! Sign up for free and start your next creative project: milanote.com/nicolerudolph

[@CommentGirl12]

Ngl, I usually just speed through ad placement sections in sponsored videos. That said, Milanote sounds like exactly what I need. Thank you!

[@brooklynnchick]

I feel like I’ve found Aladdin’s cave of treasures in discovering your channel! Thank you for sharing your knowledge in an easy to grasp, and calm manner. ❤

[@elizabethdavis1696]

Please consider doing a video on the history of Girl Scout uniforms. Most of the videos on KZbin about this topic are done by children

[@fitandhappy42]

I visited the Uk scouting museum when I was a Girl Guide and they had a great collection of all the (British) uniforms through the years. It was lovely, and hopefully the Girl Scouts in the US have a similar resource.

[@MissingRaptor]

That would actually be really interesting!

[@tobiasfreitag2182]

For what ever reason i can't help but watch one of your videos after a nother... i don't sew and am hardly interested in fashion.... i'm a boat builder mainly interested in historic and Indigenous boats. I guess the amount of research and the way you present that gives a realy good idea of the society of padt times witch makes it realy interesting and accessible.

[@maggierobertson2962]

I think there are universal truths about makers. Regardless of our chosen mediums, there is something similar about how our brains work.

[@theresaanndiaz3179]

I love that the bespoke waistcoat has rickrack trim. I grew up thinking of rickrack being very casual and/or juvenile. I am very excited that you are going to be releasing patterns.

[@tanakaryuunosuke2641]

The green strand in your hair looks really pretty!!

[@daisukidatotoro]

Your discussion on different fabrics is very informative, especially with the close views in how it handles. I am a very tactile person and won't order fabric online because I can't truly get a feel for something (pun intended) without laying hands on it.

[@fitandhappy42]

Thank you so much for working on patterns for all of these! I would love a version of that summer waistcoat, but I’m happy to wait so you can get everything done on a healthy timescale. ❤

[@thirza9508]

I'm incredibly excited about your patterns! These are going to be so unique and awesome for anyone wanting to do historical reproductions since you are so knowledgable and precise about your historical garments! I used your comfy slippers pattern to make my own and I wear them around the house daily^^

[@kathyjohnson2043]

Considering how much precision and time goes into waistcoat/vest pockets, there's a reason why they are now hard to find in modern garments!

[@angrydragonslayer]

i really wish they were more common. my "i am going to meet royalty" suit had one with it and i've been trying to find modern similar ones but can't find anything similar without spending way too much.

[@Caldella]

I don't know how you did this perfect timing, but I'm currently planning a waistcoat for a costume that looks very similar to the evening one. 100% going to watch this AND save it for reference. Thank you!

[@fikanera838]

I love the black waistcoat with the green dress. 🖤 It looks great & creates such an interesting neckline.

[@melissel5648]

Thank you for making these kinds of videos 😊 I can't express how valuable they are for learners, with so much info that is not so easy to access elsewhere explained in great details but in a clear and concise way. They are enjoyable and useful both for those who want to apply this knowledge in projets, and those who just want to learn about the topic in general, which is not easy to do. Goal achieved ^^ Love both of those waistcoats btw

[@shiny0tinfoil0girl93]

Squeee! Patterns! Yay! Excitedly awaiting this new adventure for you! ❤😁

[@somewherenicefarmstay6146]

Can I say Nicole that you have the most soothing voice. I can never watch your videos late at night, as your voice is just so relaxing to listen too and before I know it, I am asleep on the couch. I just had a heart palpitation episode and was lying in bed going quick find some meditation video to listen too so I could do some breathing to try and relax. Then I went ... no quick find the waistcoat video and listen to Nicole. Thanks Nicole, in 5 minutes I was out like a light and then my heart was back to normal when I woke up. I really mean this as a compliment, if I had a company that recorded people speaking for meditation videos, I would be asking you to record your voice. I just normally watch you in the morning, that way I can enjoy learning from you and stay awake. LOL

[@katwitanruna]

Yay! Waistcoats are a Good Thing. Excellent garment for shenanigans no matter what they are paired with.

[@krysil1221]

I absolutely LOVE waistcoats and how they look on my body. Thank you for this!

[@just_foxy35]

I'm actually looking forward to making my own waistcoat in the foreseeable future! this will be so useful to reference while constructing it and last minute panicking haha

[@brandielee7971]

Ooooooo I can't wait for the patterns!!

[@SplitDemonIdentity]

Man, I wish this video existed two months ago back when I had to make a waistcoat for my brother’s wedding in two weeks from nothing. It would’ve made my life so much easier.

[@cake9802]

Nicole, I want to say a very big thank you for going into what fabrics and threads and why those particular ones. Along with giving examples of things closest to those that you could use and what you shouldn't use. I definitely run into choice paralysis and you make it really achievable and understandable. I love your videos!

[@elenachestnova6332]

Wow. Wow wow wow. This channel is usually pretty high on the inspiration factor, but it has literally just gone through the roof. Will definitely get the pattern once it comes out, mainly for the instructions.

[@mcomeslast]

You are 100% right about learning tailoring. I took a 3 part class two years ago. Since then I had managed one more jacket (before realizing I needed some fitting help-took care of that). Moved and getting sorted and I am rewatching my classes and reviewing my books before I cut this next one out and every page is “oh, that’s what that does”. There is no way to get it all in one go as a class that isn’t an apprenticeship. Like dressmaking, it has taken repetition and reviewing and it is all starting to come together. Looking forward to the patterns! Especially THAT jacket!

[@old_stitches_new_clothes]

So exciting to hear about the patterns you're making! I know the instructions are going to be such a joy to follow, since I always learn so much from your videos

[@elisabethprice4697]

I’m so glad for this video! I’ve been meaning to make a waistcoat to go with my 1890’s walking skirts but I’ve been putting it off! This makes me want to finally jump into it!

[@holzlastname1976]

I swear sometimes you can hear my brain, I’m literally working on a waistcoat right now! ❤THANK YOU! I so need this video!

[@marga5117]

Exactly what I needed for my fact-finding mission for my first waistcoat project. Thanks for disclosing so many of the waistcoat secrets...

[@pmclaughlin4111]

Just what I needed. I found some pirate flag material to make vests for my adult sons for Talk Like a Pirate Day in September (not to be confused with Talk Like Shakespeare Day, April 23) For the vests, I am making Death's head buttons..of course... But I am not sure the buttons would Stand up to washing You have provided a solution And more inspiration Thank you.

[@DaMomo8]

Omg finally the masc vibes I needed in my wardrobe!

[@ultimateskillchain]

I love your hair! And the last two looks with the formal waistcoat, those tails and then the green dress, just stunning ❤ I don't know why I thought waistcoats were so simple. I love the look but they do take a lot! I still want to make at least one though... Seems like they can flatter just about anyone with the right style!

[@ah5721]

I've hand washed and wrangled clothes through a clothes wringer. The fact that those buttons on the summer waistcoat are pinned on makes sense to me! Buttons get damaged if smashed between two rollers. This is a timely video as I've been thinking of making a ladies' waiscoat in the future. Thank you!

[@fyrecraftedgaming]

Lady loki vibes in the black one w suit at the end

[@pegrichard2820]

LOVE these and can't wait for the patterns! Your explanations were so clear, again, can't wait for the patterns!

[@user-kg4fc5vz5p]

I love waistcoats too. Both models are really nice, but I find the evening one suits you better. Might be because it's black or the shape, or both. I have no machine at the moment, but there are plenty of waistcoats in the shops here (or indeed combinations, waistcoat and trousers or three-piece suits). So, I'll be buying a few over the summer.

[@ariwoodshany4308]

I'm making my first waistcoat, one inspired by Aziraphale, both because I need more waistcoats and also because I was given some lovely fabric. This helped me a lot with collor placement and pockets. Thank you!!!

[@RianShafer]

Love the black one, it turned out beautifully done!

[@thecatofnineswords]

They are some good looking garments! I am absolutely looking forward to this pattern book.

[@anieth]

Very fun. It's amazing how well they fit even without 1001 darts! :D

[@lizamcilwee4774]

Thank you so much for this, Nicole!! Very informative. I'm very much a visual audio learner so just reading and viewing photos is often confusing for me. Now I feel confident to make those waistcoats I've been wanting to make 😄

[@darkred83]

Both pieces are stunning! Look forward to seeing the patterns.

[@MystearicaClaws]

Lord I love the green 💚💚💚💚💚😊

[@elaur73]

I really love your videos! This is so interesting and I love to see the detail work and hear about the different kinds of fabric. You also look smashing in both waistcoats, it is very inspiring!

[@vickiferguson6542]

Can't wait for the patterns!

[@ushere5791]

love them! looking forward to buying the evening waistcoat pattern!!

[@pippaseaspirit4415]

Those look so good!

[@saskiacowan8962]

I have a deep love of waistcoats, thank you❤

[@cheyannelencioni9394]

I'm currently making a waistcoat based off the one Elizabeth Swann wears at the end of Pirates of the Caribbean 3. I bought cotton calico to use as my fashion layer due to the pattern and didn't realize at the time it might be too flimsy. I might add interfacing to the front pieces for more stability.

[@guineverecassidy4855]

Beautiful work. Lovely fit and finish. I hope when you publish your pattern line you will consider a wide size range inclusion.

[@quazylade90]

You handspring is so soothing. These are two two cute.

[@sambowz9077]

You are my new CRUSH! 🥰

[@SandraL489]

Thank you for taking your time on materials, that was so helpful! Later on, on the summer waistcoat, I often got lost when you switched over to another part of the garment with showing only the little corner you are working on but not giving enough of an overview shot for me to visualise where on the garment you're on.

[@kirstenpaff8946]

Thanks for explaining how to add removable buttons. Any item in my wardrobe needs to be machine washable, but most nicer buttons are not.

[@kathrynmccarthy]

I love this video! I've been wanting to make a tailored wool coat for myself for years and have been procrastinating for that long because I've been intimidated by all the layers/materials that go into the construction. This video is making the supplies list and construction process much more manageable.

[@Lasciatemi_Guidare]

Shoutout to Palazzo Mocenigo in Venice which has a lovely collection of antique waistcoats.

[@Bompula]

Always looooved waistcoats..

[@edwardy4069]

perfect thing to listen to while sewing a stingray blanket!

[@Chibi-kittenplays]

I NEED that orange jacket in my life!

[@laurum1318]

Providence? I have been planning on getting expertise in drafting and making waistcoats for a while and this week I got serious. I am drafting one and will sew it up soon. I need help with tailoring and here you are. I believe in this quantum world 😊

[@indiabilly]

It’s fascinating and phenomenal watching you work and they are both fabulous but the evening waistcoat really suits you xx

[@momosaku16]

looking forward to the patterns :D

[@AuthenticWe]

There is soooo much greatness in this video and thanks for the update on the book, we understand the overwhelming frustration and thank you for tackling the beast of fashion for us to learn. First in line for purchase

[@autumncosandaffect9735]

oooh, yes please - lovely, so lovely yay!

[@LonChaneyJrfan52]

Heck yeah I’m looking forward to your patterns. I also wish I’d had this video last September but, that project still taught me a lot and I’ll use info from this one for making adjustments to that project

[@matthodek]

I really appreciate your goal with this video, and think you did well with it. True to what you said, I haven't seen some of these techniques before, but I am very interested in giving them a try. I rather enjoy trying new ways of doing things and figuring out what works best for me. Both of your waistcoats turned out very nice, and I like how you styled them. Thanks for sharing.

[@4649kasumi]

I have a waist coat I need tailored and I'm sure this will all make sense when I have it in front of me, but for now I am still so confused lol😅

[@beatricenowell8207]

Excellent! I♥all of your videos, but the making ones are the best. I was attempting to use part of a Burda style jacket pattern in conjunction with a "Truly Victorian" pattern to get the black wool waistcoat style. so lucky me.🥰😊😄

[@jelsner5077]

I love your hair! I hope you win

[@mtz123ish]

Beautiful!!

[@thederpstate3330]

Perfect timing

[@mcomeslast]

I’ll check out mila note. I organize my projects into plastic crates so pieces don’t get misplaced. I was considering trying to use Reminders so I’ll give it a go.

[@phoenixfritzinger9185]

I guess somebody else had probably already told you this but something concerning 1830’s fashion would probably do really really well in the algorithm right now

[@gkseeton]

Squeeeeee!! PATTERNS! ❤❤❤❤❤🙃😇

[@waterbitten]

Wait, is bleeding still an issue with modern color fast fabrics?

[@raraavis7782]

Not usually...but there's always a small risk, especially if you don't prewash a fabric. Which you wouldn't do with a stiff kind of silk, as it would likely become floppy and possibly get very hard to remove creases (speaking from experience here). Even with store bought clothes there's always a small risk. Jeans staining a white or cream sofa is a classic example. Although I have to say, that I haven't personally had issues with silk staining either other clothes or skin. I guess you could always try it, by vigorously rubbing a piece of the silk over a white cotton fabric. If nothing comes off on either dry or damp fabric, you should be good to go.

[@seaborgium919]

Hey hello hi yes I need this video.

[@lesleyharris525]

I noticed that the waist ties are exactly at your natural waist, was that as per the pattern or did you adjust to fit you. The waistcoats are really good, love watching your videos, so informative. Please don't take this the wrong way but I love your hair, ❤

[@kohakuaiko]

The wool canvas is probably intended for Jewish customers to avoid breaking religious laws about mixing fibers. @SnappyDragon has a good video on the subject.

[@SpringStarFangirl]

Yeah! The law specifically prohibits the mixing of wool and linen (and very specifically sheepswool and flax linen- neither hemp linen nor cashmere, for example, are part of the prohibition) so a suit would generally make use of wool or cotton canvas.

[@kevinorr6880]

I know that my need is much more current than the time frame shown, but I cannot find a resource. I desire to make myself a high-quality seersucker suit. However, I have failed to find a resource or pattern for these clothes. I have searched and searched. Do you have an idea?

[@gerrimilner9448]

Please, please, please- tell me you are releasing paper patterns, i just cannot work out how to make my own patterns, or actually how to re size to fit, i buy and make loads of skirts, because if the waist fits im good, then the odd baggy shirt, then im stuck and i have a challenging learning style

[@makaylar.6722]

this doesn't have anything to do with waistcoats but...does anyone have recommendations for shoe sole repair? looking into more historical techniques and I thought of nicole first!

[@yhmkriek95]

what weight is midweight? It would be helpful to know for non English speakers.

[@cherriesnhoney]

oh, do you have a Kickstarter or are you doing independent?

[@m.maclellan7147]

Pretty sure she has a Patreon !?

[@matiasochoa2164]

*inhala* "¡¡Hay algún saco wea por acá!!" *inhala*

[@emmawelch]

[@iiwhatisyouremailprivatenn2470]

A quick question, Who is The Closet Historian ?

[@robintheparttimesewer6798]

Thank you this was a wonderful video. I've saved it for future reference! Both vests are lovely!