What Saws Do I Actually Use | All My Saws

There are many saws in my shop. today we will be looking at my saw till and seeing what saws I use regularly and what saws do not get used that often.
Shop Storage videos: • How To Setup a Hand To...
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[@noahfreeman8115]

Ooooh love a good “I actually use this” vid. Thanks, please do more!

[@ilikewaffles3689]

Me feeling guilty about buying a second hand plane. This guy: 😂

[@whittysworkshop982]

The smile on your face when ya picked up the Bearkat...... Happiness :)

[@user-wk5yy5dx9k]

Damn. I remember you recommending Bearcat's saws like it was yesterday. I hope he's doing okay.

[@MCsCreations]

Awesome, James! Thanks for all the tips! 😊 Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊

[@joelesko3267]

another masterpiece my friend!!! Never a dull moment watching your work pal!!! Thanks for being an awesome woodworker and teacher!!! Keep it James!! Looking forward to some dovetails in the future!!

[@philiprichardson3074]

Great video, I curbed my workshop envy to watch this video and love how each tool has a purpose. Will be looking at your other videos!

[@michaelsnell4034]

Today, I was in goodwill looking for something and came upon a saw. It's a folded steel back backsaw. It's 28 inches by 6 inches to the bottom of the back. It's missing two screws from the handle. Now, I have a reason to build a saw vice so that I can sharpen it. It reminds me of the saw my dad has of similar size. His is paired to an articulating miter box that has guides for the saw. Mine has a stub of some kind right in front of the handle that reminds me of a bucking saw's second handle.

[@RaaghavWoodWorks]

This is a great idea for a series, which do I actually use, you should make more, as you get the time 😁

[@andregiroux5199]

Loved this. Would enjoy similar videos for the rest of the tool wall! :)

[@anpr5309]

By all means, please do a restoration on the saw with the thumb hole.

[@ianstools4929]

Great video !

[@willclevett7560]

I have a serious problem buying saws, there is a local market where I pick them up for almost nothing, in the last 2 weeks I think I have bought 8 saws and restored 3 of them so far xD 2 are big 4'+ crosscuts I got for £10 each, a brass backed tenon I got for £3, an (allegedly) Georgian turning saw, which was £5 and then a pile of vintage handsaws in various states of disrepair I got for £1 each.

[@peterides9568]

I have been working on Rex's Joiners' Bench, and I have been wishing for one of those Veritas Tenon saws... That said, I have been listening to Shannon Rodgers talking sawing and I am getting my rip panel saw to mostly behave.

[@egbluesuede1220]

I may have saw envy, but at the moment it's more saw storage envy. I just ran out of room on my current wall hanger and have my most recent addition sitting on a dusty bench because I need to make room. I need to blow this problem up completely with a few more saws and then address my storage problem rather than my saw envy issues.

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

there is never enough room!

[@johnmcgee7171]

I have a suggestion. Show us how to make a shadow box picture frame. Love to see how you do those compound mitres.

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

Are you wanting something like this. kzbin.info/www/bejne/jmjcY2pjlN2afLs

[@alexander8492]

Thanks I really needed this

[@alexander8492]

Everyone join his discord you’ll get a lot help

[@Phly-Boy]

This video reminded me that I have a ton of saws to sharpen...

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

you can never get away from that!

[@sebcsaba]

Great overview video! Could you make one about saw handles? Shapes, materials, grain direction, pro-con etc?

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

I have done several videos on making them. as to Shape, and Material that is just personal choice. grain direction should always match the back of the saw.

[@tlange5091]

today I ripped oak for the first time using a cheap big box store saw. I sawed plenty of pine after learning from your videos on how to do it and felt ready for oak. BUT YOU ARE CRAZY JAMES! I am exausted, my saw is dull now and you go for the most evil oak there is because you just like it. I respected you before for your gift to educate but now I am either really impressed or afraid. only time will tell.

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

Yeah. Once you start getting into good hardwoods you need a decent saw. Particularly getting good rip teeth makes a huge difference.

[@tlange5091]

@@WoodByWrightHowTo great, now I have to go shopping for a new old saw... Thank you!

[@kent5400]

@@WoodByWrightHowTo As I continue to learn more and more on my handtool journey, I'm learning to try my tools under different conditions. For example, I have three 5 1/2 PPI rip saws because I often buy saws in lots. I use these rip saws mostly for oak and have learned that two of them tend to bind and are a nightmare to use so I usually reach for the other one. A few days ago I tried them all in 2" softwood for the first time and the roles were reversed. The two saws that I thought were problem children literally ripped through the boards like a dream while the other saw was harder to control. Let the learning continue...

[@harrigoldsmith8280]

Thank you very helpful. Please can you do measuring tools and planes.

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

here is one for planes. kzbin.info/www/bejne/jHnIe3xpoNWbn9E I am planning on doing one soon for marking tools.

[@HomesteadingNorthernMichigan]

Good afternoon my amazing friend...

[@daleknebel9382]

"I see said the blind carpenter!" as he picked up his hammer and saw.

[@neonjoe529]

I once saw a sawyer saw a saw with a saw.

[@triune_blades]

I see said the blind man to his deaf wife who could hear the kids playing in the backyard.

[@dpmeyer4867]

thanks

[@daleknebel9382]

The rip saw with the thumb hole is a Diston D-8. I love mine for ripping thick stock or resawing panels of some size.

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

That is what I initially initially. thought but the plate is a different company and the handle was shop made. I use to have a D8 with a thumb hole but gave that one away a few years ago.

[@charlesrussell9312]

That is my guess based on the handle. James says it's shop made so I am going to go with a good copy. You can see how the handle covers the top of the plate, which is a Disstion hallmark. D-100 and D-120 Acmes are identical with wheat carvings on similar handles. Fun to see a restoration though.

[@jimcarter4929]

Other makers also used thumb hole.

[@Musicpins]

Do you know of Bad axe toolworks? and I agree with you the veritas saws are really great, not that cheap, but good (fair) for what you get, handle is good, stiff back, cuts out of the box. I have the dovetail and I like it :)

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

oh yes. Bad Axe is only a few hours from us. I actually proposed about a mile from their shop.

[@richarddocherty8147]

The thumb hole saw could be a Disston as I have one very similar to that in my shop. As for the video request, could you do one on recutting the saw teeth or changing from a crosscut to rip or vice versa please? Love the content and keep up the great work!!

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

That's why I thought at first when I got it. But the blade is made by a different company and the handle is shop made. I have a couple other d8s with the thumb hole one of my favorites.

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

For changing from crosscut to rip cut or the other way is as simple as turning the file when you use it. If you want it rip cut then the file is at 90° to the saw and if you want a cross cut then it's at an angle usually somewhere around 30°.

[@richarddocherty8147]

@@WoodByWrightHowTo Ahhh brilliant, I have a saw I'd like to do that to so I'll give it a try. Thank you very much!!

[@dougthomson5544]

It’s funny how people’s experiences are so very different. I have given up on Western saws and pretty much use Japanese saws exclusively. I find them much more accurate and very easy to use.

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

They are much easer to learn and jump into.

[@dougthomson5544]

@@WoodByWrightHowTo Chuckle, I’m 73 years old and have been doing this stuff since I was a teen. My old bones don’t allow jumping into anything 🤣 anymore. No, I simply mean that people are different in their styles of work - _vive la différence_. I was attracted to Japanese saws due to the simple physics of the tool and the inherent logic of cutting on a tension stroke rather than a compression stroke. Add to that the exquisite design of the teeth and the small kerf and I was sold. But, obviously what works for me is irrelevant to others who have mastered different tools and different techniques.

[@J.A.Smith2397]

This video makes the cut 😆

[@HibikiKano]

Would love to see how those tool racks are made. Especially the saw and planr racks.

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

Here you go. I have videos on each of them. kzbin.info/aero/PLAbayqjimalFppP8Pz0Fd6qV7KDRU0h7Z

[@HibikiKano]

@@WoodByWrightHowTo 😘❤️

[@chwyatt3]

I own a distton thumbhole saw myself. I would like to know more about how to use it.

[@wierdalien1]

So what we saying is that tools may not be used all the time but they might be worth their weight in gold

[@Flanelman1]

So I take it you recommend the crosscut carcass saw over the rip cut. Is that because you have a larger tenon saw? If someone was to get just the carcass saw, would they be better served by the crosscut, or rip cut?

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

Two different uses. Historically speaking to be a carcass saw it was cross cut. If it were rip cut it would be called a tenon saw. Veritas just made it confusing by referring to the saw size and offering it in both filings. but for that size cross cut is FAR more useful.

[@wyssmaster]

To add on just a bit, the height of the plate will be the limiting factor on the depth of cut, so a larger tenon saw will be able to cut larger tenons (more useful if you're cutting big timbers or using laminated beams) without regard for the thickness of the mortised piece (as the depth of the mortise is limited by the size of your chisel), while a large carcasse saw, frankly, isn't worth it to use, as trying to crosscut a 4" thick beam with a fine crosscut saw will take AGES, compared to a relatively coarse handsaw. Basically, you're much more likely to cut taller tenons than you would thicker stock, so you'd get a lot more use from a taller tenon saw. The only argument I could see for a rip carcasse saw would be for larger dovetails (like quite a bit larger, probably for 6/4 stock or thicker), but a tenon saw would work well for that, also.

[@vicvancini140]

Thanks, very interesting. But I have a question: when do you use the carcass saw instead of others and why?

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

it all depends if you are cross cutting or ripping, want a clean slow cut or a fast dirty cut, or if it is a shallow or deep cut. you chose the saw that fits those characteristics. here is a video that might answer that a bit better. kzbin.info/www/bejne/Z5SuXquEZ9p0i6s

[@vicvancini140]

@@WoodByWrightHowTo thanks, it helps

[@dougruff9459]

I would like you to do a video on how to convert a ripsaw into a cross cut saw

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

I've been thinking about doing that one for years. Maybe I will.

[@triune_blades]

So it's called a buck saw, not a bow saw? Or is it a personal preference thing for the term? Also, do you have gentleman's (it may have another name)saw? Awesome video James! It helped a lot.

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

Any saw with the tensioner on the back is a bow saw. But they come in many forms from the big buck saw here to the little turning saw. They are all types of bow saws.

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

And yes I have 2 gent saws. I only have them for demonstration sake. I hate using those things. Pure pain!

[@ChrisGray1]

Do you use the frame saw much? I recently got the kit and am looking forward to putting it together.

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

Anytime I need to resaw something thicker than about 4 in that's the side pull out. Usually two or three times a year.

[@marcenariahobby7pallet]

já deixei meu super like👍👏👊🤝🇧🇷💯

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

Você é minha pessoa favorita do dia!

[@bluekestral8316]

The thumbhole saw looks like my disston D8

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

That is what I initially initially. thought but the plate is a different company and the handle was shop made. I use to have a D8 with a thumb hole but gave that one away a few years ago. There were several other companies that made thumb holes too.

[@SemEilers]

I dont own a ripcut saw (yet) and i need to rip down a board. Can i use my crosscut saw without any major complications

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

Sure. You can rip cut with a cross cut it's just going to be slower. And you have to be a little more careful as it tends to follow the grain a bit more.

[@jrk1666]

is it worth taking the cheap saw and putting it in the oven (without the handle of course) until it softens up ?

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

You would have to get it really hot. 400° will temper it but the soft and the teeth you've got to get up to the point at which it loses magnetism and that's often over a thousand degrees. I think on spring steel it's something around 1, 800F

[@Musicpins]

@@WoodByWrightHowTo are you sure? (and do you mean 1000F or C?) I mean I don't question putting a cheap saw in the oven, its not nearly hot enough, and the plastic handle will melt haha, but I'm sure I have seen Warren miller (guy with the big crosscut saw sharpening videos) heat up saw steel to light blue to soften the teeth, then again, big crosscut saws were not lazer hardened and most likely a different steel aswell

[@richardgroom988]

I used to sharpen hardened tooth saws in my job as a saw doctor by heating up the tooth area with an oxygen torch and honestly the steal used to make the saw is so bad it is more cost effective to replace it, they rarely hold the edge and are hard to get them to cut straight

[@-Benedict]

They cost like $10. It would be a complete waste of time. I always keep a big box store saw in my travel toolbox, and when it's too dull to use any longer, I just take it apart, cut card scrapers from the plate, and buy another one.

[@jamessmith4836]

Your Veritas Tenon is it rip or cross cut?

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

Rip cut. That's one of the things that confuses a lot of people. A tenon saw is always rip cut. But veritas offers it in both which just confuses people.

[@jamessmith4836]

@@WoodByWrightHowTo lol yea I was mostly asking to know if I bought the right one lol so your point exactly.

[@LegoMan-cz4mn]

It seems like you missed the gents saws.. I have a couple of them myself and I never use them because I have grown to like the pistol grip more. How about you?

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

yes I skipped over them. I never use them. and forgot they were there. I also skipped a few others too. oops!

[@OrangeGeemer]

what's the point of the exposed toe on the veritas tenon saw (3:41)?? Bad Axe has a similar saw called no. 9, bur all I can find out online about the toe is "to reach difficult places", but no concrete examples.

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

It is just decorative. The very tip does not need the extra support so they save a little weight and material. It harkens back to the look and design if the Half back.

[@OrangeGeemer]

@@WoodByWrightHowTo thanks, someone did mention it was easy to hold for the weight distribution

[@ryanstieglitz8077]

Comment down below

[@kennethnielsen3864]

55th.

[@Youzack1]

Man that kink is so painful to see… what happened? Awesome saws though. I’ve been procrastinating on restoring a couple old Atkins saws..

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

Thanks. The kink in that saw was caused when I pulled it back too far It came out of the slot and my hand went forward before it was back in the slot. That's one of the problems with the halfback. There's unsupported material at the front that can then bend.

[@Youzack1]

@@WoodByWrightHowTo hopefully Santa will bring you a replacement for Christmas lol. Thanks for sharing all that you do with us.

[@zachlebar]

First! (I think 😅)

[@MCsCreations]

Firstn't! 😊

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

Congrats on the first. I really need to come up with a fries for that.

[@makermark67]

James, the Veritas tenon saw (with the kink 😞), is that a crosscut or rip ?

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

That is rip cut. historically speaking if it is a tenon saw it is rip cut. if it is cross cut then it is a sash saw, but Veritas likes to confuse people on that and offers it filed both ways.

[@makermark67]

@@WoodByWrightHowTo i was going to ask if there was a distinction or "tradition" with the terminology. Thanks for adding that explanation. Great video btw!

[@jefffink8405]

Yeah but how many hammers do you have?

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

More than I want to know. I've got a video looking at all those two

[@everettneil6860]

If Irwin produce a sharp saw,the method must be sufficient to sharpen a saw ,must be a tool for a DIY person to sharpen saws,such as,a file,grinder,some type of a mechanical application.

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

when they make the saw it is soft. then they harden the teeth after the sharpening. at that point you need a diamond file and those cost 10X the saw. and even then you will probably only get 4 or 5 sharpening out of the files as they are not designed for it.

[@daraven4714]

Japanese saws are not that hard to control, it is that you are so used to western style saws that your body mechanics and muscle memory is not used to pulling. I am the exact opposite, I find western saws more difficult.

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

I think you are mixing what I am saying. I agree with you. the reason that Japanese saws are so easy is they take more force. more force in this case is a moderate light touch to keep on the line. this is because the leading tooth is on the far side and not as much control gets through the work to it. with western saws even the slightest thought will get them going off course and once you put in a bit of force to bring it back that "bit of force" was WAY to much and you go past the line the other way. then the same thing is repeated the other direction. with western saws you have to be putting in gram amounts of direction changing through each stroke. that takes a lot of skill, but once you have that then it takes far less force to control a western saw.

[@daraven4714]

@@WoodByWrightHowTo the leading tooth on japanese saw is always the tooth closest to yourself, I was agreeing with you, it is a matter of body mechanics but also a different way of thinking. I am the only stating I am the opposite, I find everything easier to control if I pull in instead of pushing away. The best way for me to control a western saw is to sometimes turn it around and with one hand on the handle and the other pinching the front and pull it towards me using it backwards. I have difficulty course correcting a western saw, for me it won't even over correct. There is no wrong or right way there is only what gets the job done ;)

[@lawrencedeleurere4427]

@@daraven4714 I'm with James on this one. The leading tooth is the tooth closest to you on a Japanese saw, you are correct, but it has already done its job by the time it gets to a point where you can actually control it. How a pull saw changes direction is by the tooth just prior to exiting the cut taking a small cut out of the end of the kerf thereby widening it by a tooth length, then a tooth behind it will take out a small piece, then another following it. When you're changing the side of the kerf, you have to make sure that you're actually engaging the side, not just with the tooth leaving the cut, but with as many teeth behind it as you can until the entire kerf has shifted. This means that you must put a lot of pressure on the saw constantly until that kerf is formed. A western saw on the other hand changes direction the same way, but the force is being applied from behind the cut, so a small movement will move the leading tooth and just that single tooth will cut a whole new kerf and all of the teeth behind it will follow that new kerf. The only force required is enough to bounce a single tooth out of the cut and the rest just happens. What I think is confusing is that sometimes people confuse 'easy to control' with 'easy to make it go straight.' Pull saws are great at going straight. They follow whatever line you put them on. This is not the same as easy to control. If the line you start a Japanese saw on isn't the line you want to cut, correcting it is a bear and frequently, you have to go back up above your current kerf to get it back on track. If you get off your line with a western saw, it's trivial to put it back on track. So trivial that beginners have difficulty cutting a straight line.

[@daraven4714]

@@lawrencedeleurere4427 so here is the problem I have, the further away a tool gets from me the less control I have over it. So a western style saw for me cannot be corrected, as my hand gets further away the harder it is to course correct, and pushing requires more force for me as the blade twists as I try to course correct. As well western style saws require that you pay attention to the exit as well as the entry of the cut, pull saws only require focus on the line and everything else follows. As my hand gets closer to my body the better control I have over micro adjusting the cut to correct the kerf. I do not know about everyone else, I am only saying personally this is my experience. This is because of my training and experience to generally pull the tool towards my core(belly-chest) much in the same way a shave horse and draw knife work.